You are by far the most intelligent racer that has ever explained the proper way to adjust valves/lifters... I wrote what appears to be a nasty message to those other video's who must have x-ray vision. This does not include you!!! I'm watching you, and I can see your valves moving open and closed very easily, but on the other 50 video's, their intakes are on their engines. Please let me know if what I'm saying makes any sense to you as far as adjusting valves to perfection or not? Yeah, let me add one thing. Since nobody has x-ray vision, I recommend that you have a harmonic balancer tape glued and sprayed with clear paint to your balancer for PERFECT VALVE ADJUSTMENT.... No guessing when you THINK the valve is just 1/4 open or closed. If you bump or turn your motor over with a wrench on the harmonic balancer, then you will know EXACTLY when your valves are open or closed. That is the proper way to adjust valves, whether they are solid or rollers. NO GUESSING GAME LIKE THESE FOOLS ARE TELLING YOU. It's your motor, and if you want to bend pushrods and break valves, then just follow their instructions, and you WILL replace your cam, lifters, pushrods and valves... It's your car and money. I repeat, the ONLY WAY TO KNOW WHEN THE VALVE IS OPEN OR CLOSED is to look at the mark on your balancer when it is on the intake stroke or exhaust stroke. Then your adjustment will ALWAYS be perfect, not HALF-ASSED... If you disagree with me, don't curse me out!!! Ask a professional builder of motors! Don't take my word for it. It is just common sense that nobody can guess the exact time a valve is open or closed by just bumping a motor over without checking the exact time of valve and lifter movement, without looking at the marks on the balancers.
You are the best i have been having lifter problems for a few weeks now couldn't find anyone to adjust the fir me saw your video and did it step-by-step and drove me car today and it did great i was having a light ticking sound thought it was exhaust leak but did your steps and it fixed my problem THANK YOU
I had no idea what I was doing this guy is a great teacher! Thank you for taking the time not to have any distractions while doing this video! I’m going to watch this video over & over to make sure I get it right!
Thank you for not only making a simple straightforward video, but thank you for validating a method ive used for my entire life....and im old as dirt.....I prefer your 2nd method, which I like to call the ''feel for the base circle'' method. My eyes and my fingers are fully capable of telling me when a cam has rotated around and the lifter is on the bottom and off the lobe. Ive had ppl argue with me and they SWEAR by the ''EOIC'' method, and all I can say is, you do it your way, i'll do it mine.....and ive never lost a cam or lifter or valve ever. just take ones time.
The top of the lifter where the pushrod sits is called pushrod seat. Then theirs the plunger below and a spring. I also like doing both valves following the firering order. Good video! 👍
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I noticed that both your intake and exhaust lash are the same. I had a 427, L-88 motor. The intake was 22 and the exhaust was 28 I believe. Not sure, it was in 1985. But, I still adjusted my valves just like you did, at the same time.
Any certain reason you have to follow the firing order? Looks like you could just make sure intake is completely closed (open then closed) on each cylinder and go down the bank.
My concerns are and I may be wrong that with a .020 gap it would be causing a slap in the gap between roller and spring valve. Just my thoughts. Other thing is we can see this is roller rockers on a 350, but is it a Roller cam and roller lifters or flat tappets.
Well hell, I read different on a forum. When adjusting exhaust side the intake pushrod had to be half way past down travel to be able to adjust the exhaust. You have it as the intake valve pushrod starts its travel down that's when you adjust the exhaust valve lash. So, who's right and whos not?
Question sir - why is the centre stud loosened and then the nut set then the centre stud tightened to lock it down. Would it not be the same to loosen the nut and tighten the nut until the lash was set? I'm trying to learn and wondered about that part - thanks!
+Jozef Gadowski If it is a solid lifter cam you need to find the spec sheet that came with the cam or do a lot of experimenting. If it is a hydraulic cam lash is zero + a 1/2 turn. Lift and duration have nothing to do with lash.
I don't think .270 degree duration is possible. It's likely 270. On a serious note, check with the camshaft manufacturer for cold and hot lash settings.
If you have a hydraulic cam you will use the method I describe in the video. 0 lash and add a 1/4 to 1/2 turn to depress the lifter. If its a stock solid lift cam the spec of .020 to .025 should work well.
How can you adjust the valves on modern engines. the ones make after the 2000's like 2002-2003? What is the filler gage dimension, for example a 1600 cc engine from an Audi engine or any other engine please?
Im no mechanic but I realized that when u adjust cylinder four u say watch for the intake valve to open but technically you are ass backwards, I think. U say watch it open as the rocker arm comes up. But when the valve "opens" the rocker should go down. Am I right or am I just not catching on?
It doesn't matter but if you do you only have to rotate the crankshaft just a little bit and you are at tdc on the next cylinder in the firing order . You can do one side then the other , you will just have to rotate the crank more . If turning by hand , turn it in the direction of rotation .
If you achieved the correct adjustment using the 1st technique then why did you have to turn the nut when you demonstrated the 2nd technique? If it was on there would be no need to readjust. I know your just explaining the different methods of adjusting but there was no need to turn the nut the on the second demo.
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You are by far the most intelligent racer that has ever explained the proper way to adjust valves/lifters... I wrote what appears to be a nasty message to those other video's who must have x-ray vision. This does not include you!!! I'm watching you, and I can see your valves moving open and closed very easily, but on the other 50 video's, their intakes are on their engines. Please let me know if what I'm saying makes any sense to you as far as adjusting valves to perfection or not? Yeah, let me add one thing. Since nobody has x-ray vision, I recommend
that you have a harmonic balancer tape glued and sprayed with clear
paint to your balancer for PERFECT VALVE ADJUSTMENT.... No guessing when
you THINK the valve is just 1/4 open or closed. If you bump or turn
your motor over with a wrench on the harmonic balancer, then you will
know EXACTLY when your valves are open or closed. That is the proper way
to adjust valves, whether they are solid or rollers. NO GUESSING GAME
LIKE THESE FOOLS ARE TELLING YOU. It's your motor, and if you want to
bend pushrods and break valves, then just follow their instructions, and
you WILL replace your cam, lifters, pushrods and valves... It's your
car and money. I repeat, the ONLY WAY TO KNOW WHEN THE VALVE IS OPEN OR
CLOSED is to look at the mark on your balancer when it is on the intake
stroke or exhaust stroke. Then your adjustment will ALWAYS be perfect,
not HALF-ASSED... If you disagree with me, don't curse me out!!! Ask a
professional builder of motors! Don't take my word for it. It is just
common sense that nobody can guess the exact time a valve is open or
closed by just bumping a motor over without checking the exact time of
valve and lifter movement, without looking at the marks on the
balancers.
You are the best i have been having lifter problems for a few weeks now couldn't find anyone to adjust the fir me saw your video and did it step-by-step and drove me car today and it did great i was having a light ticking sound thought it was exhaust leak but did your steps and it fixed my problem THANK YOU
That little one inside is a set screw & that big outter one that you forgot to tighten back down is the lock nut. Great video !
I had no idea what I was doing this guy is a great teacher! Thank you for taking the time not to have any distractions while doing this video! I’m going to watch this video over & over to make sure I get it right!
I know this video is old but it saved my butt! Thank you
Been doing this 30 years. Best method Ive ever seen! Ty Sir!
Thank you for not only making a simple straightforward video, but thank you for validating a method ive used for my entire life....and im old as dirt.....I prefer your 2nd method, which I like to call the ''feel for the base circle'' method. My eyes and my fingers are fully capable of telling me when a cam has rotated around and the lifter is on the bottom and off the lobe. Ive had ppl argue with me and they SWEAR by the ''EOIC'' method, and all I can say is, you do it your way, i'll do it mine.....and ive never lost a cam or lifter or valve ever. just take ones time.
absolutely the best video I've seen on valve adjustment
Thank You Sir , What a great guy . Very clear on all points a sure sign of a very Good Man and a great teacher . Job well done !
Love this brother! Most coherent explanation a person could ask for.
Very good info. I was nervous about adjusting myself but feel comfortable after watching your video. Thanks
Excellent brother. Now I know why my cam worked as well as it should have and never had a problem...
the best and most clear explanation of this I have ever seen, thank you!
Chevy. Bb. Value. Ajustment
The top of the lifter where the pushrod sits is called pushrod seat. Then theirs the plunger below and a spring.
I also like doing both valves following the firering order.
Good video! 👍
Nice job on the instruction. Very clear explanation
wow this is the best i seen so far on youtube. you took the time to go through all cylinders.
Thanks for the detailed walk through. You clearly know what you are talking about!
Great video!! Thanks I was looking for a good instructional video and this one is the one people need to watch.
Thanks, This will make my solid lifter adjustment on my 1970 LT-1 sbc much easier and with confidence.
Great way of doing the adjustment. I was doing it the old way . But your way is better I think.
If am not mistaken they are called poly locks i put them on my 396 375 hp and the valves could only be adjusted with engine running. Awesome video.
Thanks for a great how to video. Much quicker and easier than other methods
Excellent video for setting valve lash on a SBC with a solid lift camshaft . Thanks
The is a perfect way to adjust the valves, Thanks for great video, and happy thanksgiving and God bless
You do a great job explaining this process. Thumbs up!
good explanation, clear, good video and good knowledge. Thank you.
Most informative video that I have watched after going through quite a few. Great !! TOTAL SATISFACTION. THANK
YOU ! Charles
That's great! Thanks for watching. Please come back to our channel for more How To videos and if you haven't already, be sure to Subscribe so that you will see our new videos when they are released. Have a great day!
Thank you for a simple way to adjust the valves on a small block.
This is the best video I’ve seen. Thanks 👍
Thanks for such a great video! explained very nicely!! two thumbs up!👍👍
minthillbilly, you are THE MAN!
Nice video. I much prefer the first method. Find it about as simple as it gets
I noticed that both your intake and exhaust lash are the same. I had a 427, L-88 motor. The intake was 22 and the exhaust was 28 I believe. Not sure, it was in 1985. But, I still adjusted my valves just like you did, at the same time.
The dislike's must not know how to use a feeler gauge or have never seen one.
Any certain reason you have to follow the firing order? Looks like you could just make sure intake is completely closed (open then closed) on each cylinder and go down the bank.
Great video.
Great video Thank you
Best explanation,thanks
Nice work thank you sir.
I much prefer the companion-cylinder overlap method; when #6 is on overlap, adjust #1 etc
Thank You for your help much appreciated 🙏👍
I have a Chevy 454 truck engine. Can I follow these instructions? Also, is it the same firing order?
Thank You a BIG help
My concerns are and I may be wrong that with a .020 gap it would be causing a slap in the gap between roller and spring valve. Just my thoughts. Other thing is we can see this is roller rockers on a 350, but is it a Roller cam and roller lifters or flat tappets.
Great break down n easy instructions but one thing u spud like king of the hill selling propane lol 😂
thanks very good
Well hell, I read different on a forum.
When adjusting exhaust side the intake pushrod had to be half way past down travel to be able to adjust the exhaust.
You have it as the intake valve pushrod starts its travel down that's when you adjust the exhaust valve lash.
So, who's right and whos not?
He does it tell you he’s adjusting solid lifters hydronic lifters are what’s in your factory consumer cars
Says "hydraulic" it in the description
Question sir - why is the centre stud loosened and then the nut set then the centre stud tightened to lock it down. Would it not be the same to loosen the nut and tighten the nut until the lash was set? I'm trying to learn and wondered about that part - thanks!
excellent video! very well done... Thank You! will this same method work with a Chevy Duramax if I follow the proper firing order?
Master mechanic have to say wish u was my neighbor
What exactly fill gauge that you use to adjust the roller rockers
Is the adjustment the same for a bbc hydraulic cam?
I have a 72 camaro with a 383 it have a .505 lift cam with a .270 duration. What would the feeler gauge be? Car idles at like 1,500.
+Jozef Gadowski If it is a solid lifter cam you need to find the spec sheet that came with the cam or do a lot of experimenting. If it is a hydraulic cam lash is zero + a 1/2 turn. Lift and duration have nothing to do with lash.
I don't think .270 degree duration is possible. It's likely 270. On a serious note, check with the camshaft manufacturer for cold and hot lash settings.
how do i know what feeler gauge i would need on a stock 350 engine
If you have a hydraulic cam you will use the method I describe in the video. 0 lash and add a 1/4 to 1/2 turn to depress the lifter. If its a stock solid lift cam the spec of .020 to .025 should work well.
i did it today my uncle who built a 1972 monte suggested i did .018 with my solid lifters do you think that is to much
@@minthillbilly
How can you adjust the valves on modern engines. the ones make after the 2000's like 2002-2003? What is the filler gage dimension, for example a 1600 cc engine from an Audi engine or any other engine please?
+SacreDro And do you have a video on how to tighten the piston rods to the cranckshaft?
Im no mechanic but I realized that when u adjust cylinder four u say watch for the intake valve to open but technically you are ass backwards, I think. U say watch it open as the rocker arm comes up. But when the valve "opens" the rocker should go down. Am I right or am I just not catching on?
Forgot to say, but, solid lifter cam should be adjusted hot
Hey I have a 280h comp cam an have know spec card to know what to set my valve lash. Have any idea how to get that info
It’s hydraulic so it’s zero lash
This is not for preload lifter adjustment!Solid roller lifter!!
Golden e seen others tighten down the A Wrench then give the nut a little bump tight after ??? You don’t do this??
Does this work on an 1969 gmc 2500 with the 5.7 V8 engine?
Why would it matter to follow the firing order sequence? Seems to me you could do one side then the other
It doesn't matter but if you do you only have to rotate the crankshaft just a little bit and you are at tdc on the next cylinder in the firing order . You can do one side then the other , you will just have to rotate the crank more . If turning by hand , turn it in the direction of rotation .
If you achieved the correct adjustment using the 1st technique then why did you have to turn the nut when you demonstrated the 2nd technique? If it was on there would be no need to readjust. I know your just explaining the different methods of adjusting but there was no need to turn the nut the on the second demo.
you got all that car and your using steel heads and the cheapest crap rocker arms you can buy ,, nice very nice
why not draw some spark plugs too? you drew a radiator cap on the radiator. shees. lol
=como faso para com seguir um martelete de vavula e uma vareta motor GM4,3 v6 vortec pelotas rs
Where will YOU go when you die? Heaven or Hell are the only options. I beg you to decide quickly.
1 Corinthians 15:1-4
The Resurrection of Christ
15 Now, brothers and sisters, I want to remind you of the gospel I preached to you, which you received and on which you have taken your stand. 2 By this gospel you are saved, if you hold firmly to the word I preached to you. Otherwise, you have believed in vain.
3 For what I received I passed on to you as of first importance: that Christ died for our sins according to the Scriptures,4 that he was buried, that he was raised on the third day according to the Scriptures,
This should have only taken 2 minutes. It’s not rocket surgery setting valve lash.
sounds like bad shoe
I don't think there's any real reason you have to follow the firing order when doing that
You don't have to but when you do you don't have to rotate the crankshaft as much . If turning by hand , turn it in the direction of rotation .