GSO makes these, and are rebranded for many vendors, including Orion. I have one, and have used it for over two years. I recommend it as an astrograph for DSO imaging.
At 2000mm this should be optimal for imagining full moon at full frame sensor. :D Very tempting. Price is great. But even with carbon fiber it is 15kg. My mount can only carry 12.3kg. :/
There is flex in this truss. It is compensated tho. I am not entirely sure, because this is usually done by mounting in a bit different spot, but the flex in front is compensated by flex in the back so the colimation and distances are maintained as the system flexes in different orientations. This is called Serrurier truss, but this telescope isn't really using Serruier truss as it should, so the point is kind of moot, and it will compromise colimation.
Does the 10" steel tube RC have the focuser collimation screws as well? If not, if I understand correctly, the advantages of this scope are: -Faster cooling with the open tube. -More stable as temperatures change because of the truss design -Collimation adjustable at three locations: primary, secondary and focuser. Any other reasons to consider the truss over the steel tube?
Hi Mike. It’s a good idea to check collimation before each use in general but you're just taking it in and out of the house into the backyard and being gentle with it, it shouldn't require collimation. It's more likely to need it if you're driving over bumpy mountain roads, but even then this design should hold collimation better than your average reflector.
@@oriontelescopes Those won't collimate the focuser. You need a collimation ring for the focuser. I did get away with collimating the secondary with a peep hole in the front door. But the focuser was then needed. Cheshire and Lasermates won't work for that. These are one of the best Optical Tubes for astrophotograhy, but collimation is nothing easy.
We don’t currently have an image ready that’s been taken through the 10” but we have this image Ken took through the 12” RC: th-cam.com/video/4-kYrUYRNwM/w-d-xo.html We realize this is not the same telescope as you are inquiring about, but since the focal ratio is the same (f/8), the exposures length and brightness on the sensor would be the same. The only thing that would change would be the image scale based on the difference of the focal length (2000mm vs 2432mm). The galaxy would look slightly smaller, and the field of view would be slightly larger - by about 20% or so.
Had to laugh when you said it takes 8 AA batteries! OMG lol that alone tells anyone with a brain not to buy this type of telescope from orion. Save up some more get a quality one
Just a way to cut back on cost even if it’s slight. If you’ve read reviews you would know that these scopes are highly praised in the amateur community. Of course it’s not on the level of Planewave but at a fraction of the cost, these scopes are wonderful.
GSO makes these, and are rebranded for many vendors, including Orion. I have one, and have used it for over two years. I recommend it as an astrograph for DSO imaging.
At 2000mm this should be optimal for imagining full moon at full frame sensor. :D Very tempting. Price is great. But even with carbon fiber it is 15kg. My mount can only carry 12.3kg. :/
In my opinion better stay with the tube version in anything below 14" for RCs.
There is flex in this truss. It is compensated tho. I am not entirely sure, because this is usually done by mounting in a bit different spot, but the flex in front is compensated by flex in the back so the colimation and distances are maintained as the system flexes in different orientations. This is called Serrurier truss, but this telescope isn't really using Serruier truss as it should, so the point is kind of moot, and it will compromise colimation.
I like this model for my observatory, will order with Orion StarShoot G10 DeepSpace Color, atm hard to decide comparison from zwo.
Does the 10" steel tube RC have the focuser collimation screws as well?
If not, if I understand correctly, the advantages of this scope are:
-Faster cooling with the open tube.
-More stable as temperatures change because of the truss design
-Collimation adjustable at three locations: primary, secondary and focuser.
Any other reasons to consider the truss over the steel tube?
Can you replace the secondary mirror on this with a camera, to allow for faster imaging?
It's not designed for that and wouldn't be something we would recommend. Our StarShoot G10 would make a great imager for the 10" Truss:
bit.ly/2vALKI3
Does this type of scope need collimation before each use?
Hi Mike. It’s a good idea to check collimation before each use in general but you're just taking it in and out of the house into the backyard and being gentle with it, it shouldn't require collimation. It's more likely to need it if you're driving over bumpy mountain roads, but even then this design should hold collimation better than your average reflector.
You'll pay another $400 easy to get collimation tools for these RC's.
To further clarify, standard Cheshire or LaserMate collimator tools work just fine:
bit.ly/2XcrhST
@@oriontelescopes Those won't collimate the focuser. You need a collimation ring for the focuser. I did get away with collimating the secondary with a peep hole in the front door. But the focuser was then needed. Cheshire and Lasermates won't work for that. These are one of the best Optical Tubes for astrophotograhy, but collimation is nothing easy.
When will an automatic flap cover for the primary mirror be available?
How does one keep dew off the mirrors
Hy, show some deep space images with this telescope.
We don’t currently have an image ready that’s been taken through the 10” but we have this image Ken took through the 12” RC:
th-cam.com/video/4-kYrUYRNwM/w-d-xo.html
We realize this is not the same telescope as you are inquiring about, but since the focal ratio is the same (f/8), the exposures length and brightness on the sensor would be the same. The only thing that would change would be the image scale based on the difference of the focal length (2000mm vs 2432mm). The galaxy would look slightly smaller, and the field of view would be slightly larger - by about 20% or so.
What is the mount used with this telescope?
it's used to hold up the telescope and to keep it steady
Orion HDX 110. It will run you about $4,500 US.
@@joep6706 Ok thanks
The mount looks like the Skywatcher EQ8 R pro. www.firstlightoptics.com/equatorial-astronomy-mounts/sky-watcher-eq8-r-astronomy-mount.html
What about Dew ? Is there any type of dew heaters needed?
of course
Cool I must get me one but sadly will not be from you orion because I want quality :-)
u should want a brain
Try Officina Stallare, but it'll run you anywhere from 35 to 95 thousand dollars. Should be up to your standards. Not including the mount.
Had to laugh when you said it takes 8 AA batteries! OMG lol that alone tells anyone with a brain not to buy this type of telescope from orion. Save up some more get a quality one
Hi Wesley. Just to clarify, the 8 AA batteries are for the included power pack that powers the cooling fans.
Just a way to cut back on cost even if it’s slight. If you’ve read reviews you would know that these scopes are highly praised in the amateur community. Of course it’s not on the level of Planewave but at a fraction of the cost, these scopes are wonderful.
Had to laugh when you though it takes 8 AA batteries to power go-to motors! LOL! You must feel soooooo DUMB!! LOL!