23 seconds ago A plumber installed this 4" pvc non return valve in my house. When there was a blockage in the sewer line there was a leakage through the cover edges. How can the plumber fix this problem? Should we use a tread tape
Thank you for your excellent videos. I do have a question or two relating to valve design. It appears there are two main types. #1 is the flapper style, and #2 is the ball valve type. Are both types legal in NYC in a sanitary sewer line. Are there any benefits to installing one or the other? In other words, is one type more or less prone to becoming fouled, or more difficult to maintain. Obviously, I would expect installation of the ball type may require some additional care to make certain the valve was installed carefully and accurately level to function properly. Whereas the flapper type may be slightly less critical installation-wise. But, the flapper itself may provide a catch point for debris. Curious to know your thoughts. I really appreciate your videos, and have learned a great deal of information from watching. Thanks Again
Thanks for the positivity Chris. Much thanks. The check valve “flapper” is a very basic and inexpensive device. It is ideal for flash storms, as it does not hold back backwater 100%. A knife edged flood gate valve on the other hand, is a very sophisticated and highly engineered device. It holds back backwater 100% and for an extended period of time. It is likewise a much more costly installation. In both cases a site visit from an expert is required to determine if the location is a candidate for such a device, and to consider best options. Budgetary constraints can also be a factor. Hope that helps!
Thank you for the reply. I apologize for perhaps not being clear with my question. I was seeking to compare the ball check valve vs the flapper valve type; both of which are shown on the manufacturer's website. Thanks
Cheap insurance, I had a city main clog just past my house and I was lowest in the neighborhood so all of my upstream neighbors waste was dumping into my basement with pretty significant pressure behind it .
Would it prevent sewer gasses from my septic tank to escape? Every time we shower or use hot water the septic odor stink up the outside of the house thru the exhaust pipes.
Great video. Can a 4-inch PVC backwater check valve be installed to replace an existing cast-iron 4-inch backwater check valve? Would you recommend it?
I have a house in Sheepshead Bay but when I look at where the trap is located, its below the the concrete slab such that installing this before trap would involve busting up the slab. I guess you do that or someone else needs to be hired?
I understand that it has to be manually removed, my concern is that is so so very easy to remove , that I wonder if rising forceful water could jar it accidentally.
I have an outdoor storm drain (7" diameter hole in the ground, with a ~3" horizontal pipe) that backs up during heavy Manhattan rains. Is this the type of issue a check valve could solve?
Honestly, in almost all cases no. If you install a sewer valve on a storm line it does prevent backup (aka surcharge) from the public sewer. But then the storm water from your property has no place to go. Sewer valves are primarily for sanitary surcharges from public sewers. Hop that helps.
@@balkanplumbing thanks for the reply! I am wondering if there is another solution you have employed in this scenario? The water that backflows seems to be entirely rainwater from the storm sewer. I can't think of another way to prevent the backflow and the band-aid solution of using a submersible utility pump to remove excess water doesn't seem ideal... Any ideas?
Great video. I have a follow-up question. Example: Heavy rain. Check valves check. All the rainwater on your property has nowhere to go. Suggestions? @@balkanplumbing
What if the city sewer is always clogged, so I put a clean out 25 feet before the backflow and immediately after between the backflow and city. The reason I’m searching installation is because it’s 3 ft down which I don’t want to dig up 2x every year.
You can certainly have a clean out on the street side of the valve, just extend it above the flood level. If you have a house trap, no need to do that on the house side.
A potential disaster: all of the pressure of backed up waste water from the city sewer will be pressing up against the trap plugs, trying the blow them out. The sewer valve should therefore always be on the street side of the trap.
@@balkanplumbing Wow, how much pressure are you talking about? If the caps are tight and sealed, they can still blow? Why won't the cap off the backflow valve blow then?
Sewer valves are specifically designed to handle the pressure. Sewer trap plugs are not and can wear out. Act accordingly or as you said choose. Good luck!
@@balkanplumbing Unfortunately I am in a situation where the back flow valve is after the house trap in the basement. The house trap has two steel cleanout plugs screwed inside steel end caps which are clamped to the house U-trap via 4 inch flexible couplings. I ratcheted down all the clamps firmly and they are really tight on there. I hope they can handle the pressure from a back up. 🤞
Both are flapper valves it seems. Disappointing that each valve, brand new with best possible seal condition, can leak a steady stream of sewage back into your house.
@balkanplumbing there's a link to a page that has a more in-depth guide that relates to this video, but I'm not seeing anywhere to purchase one of these, or a link to buy.
23 seconds ago
A plumber installed this 4" pvc non return valve in my house. When there was a blockage in the sewer line there was a leakage through the cover edges. How can the plumber fix this problem?
Should we use a tread tape
PVC or cast iron check valve?
Thank you for your excellent videos. I do have a question or two relating to valve design. It appears there are two main types. #1 is the flapper style, and #2 is the ball valve type. Are both types legal in NYC in a sanitary sewer line. Are there any benefits to installing one or the other? In other words, is one type more or less prone to becoming fouled, or more difficult to maintain. Obviously, I would expect installation of the ball type may require some additional care to make certain the valve was installed carefully and accurately level to function properly. Whereas the flapper type may be slightly less critical installation-wise. But, the flapper itself may provide a catch point for debris. Curious to know your thoughts. I really appreciate your videos, and have learned a great deal of information from watching. Thanks Again
Thanks for the positivity Chris. Much thanks. The check valve “flapper” is a very basic and inexpensive device. It is ideal for flash storms, as it does not hold back backwater 100%. A knife edged flood gate valve on the other hand, is a very sophisticated and highly engineered device. It holds back backwater 100% and for an extended period of time. It is likewise a much more costly installation. In both cases a site visit from an expert is required to determine if the location is a candidate for such a device, and to consider best options. Budgetary constraints can also be a factor. Hope that helps!
Thank you for the reply. I apologize for perhaps not being clear with my question. I was seeking to compare the ball check valve vs the flapper valve type; both of which are shown on the manufacturer's website. Thanks
@@chrisgardner2548 I was also wondering the same thing. Did you ever get an answer to what the differences are?
He did reply, but didn't really provide an answer to the question
how reliable are these over decades? My concern is 15years after installed, getting stuck - then what...
They’re easily cleaned, the flapper replaced, checked or maintained, or swapped out entirely.
Cheap insurance, I had a city main clog just past my house and I was lowest in the neighborhood so all of my upstream neighbors waste was dumping into my basement with pretty significant pressure behind it .
Agreed and exactly.
Would it prevent sewer gasses from my septic tank to escape? Every time we shower or use hot water the septic odor stink up the outside of the house thru the exhaust pipes.
Raise the height of the vent pipe.
Great video. Can a 4-inch PVC backwater check valve be installed to replace an existing cast-iron 4-inch backwater check valve? Would you recommend it?
Glad you liked the video. Unless the cast iron check valve is failing you, I’d say not to swap it out.
Thank you@@balkanplumbing
I have a house in Sheepshead Bay but when I look at where the trap is located, its below the the concrete slab such that installing this before trap would involve busting up the slab. I guess you do that or someone else needs to be hired?
I’d suggest you call us. We provide free and no obligation site visits. We all do complete installs after a proper assessment.
@@balkanplumbing Will do.
Hi, what would keep the water from unhinging the flap, it looks like it can lift off too easy? Thanks
That would never happen. It must be manually removed for easier cleaning.
I understand that it has to be manually removed, my concern is that is so so very easy to remove , that I wonder if rising forceful water could jar it accidentally.
Again - no.
Hi, I need the pvc check valve ASAP. Which company I can order it online
Cyclone Valves.
I have an outdoor storm drain (7" diameter hole in the ground, with a ~3" horizontal pipe) that backs up during heavy Manhattan rains. Is this the type of issue a check valve could solve?
yes
Honestly, in almost all cases no. If you install a sewer valve on a storm line it does prevent backup (aka surcharge) from the public sewer. But then the storm water from your property has no place to go. Sewer valves are primarily for sanitary surcharges from public sewers. Hop that helps.
@@balkanplumbing thanks for the reply!
I am wondering if there is another solution you have employed in this scenario? The water that backflows seems to be entirely rainwater from the storm sewer. I can't think of another way to prevent the backflow and the band-aid solution of using a submersible utility pump to remove excess water doesn't seem ideal... Any ideas?
This would require a site visit by a professional and licensed plumber. If you’re in NYC, we provide that for free and without any obligation.
Great video. I have a follow-up question. Example: Heavy rain. Check valves check. All the rainwater on your property has nowhere to go. Suggestions? @@balkanplumbing
What if the city sewer is always clogged, so I put a clean out 25 feet before the backflow and immediately after between the backflow and city. The reason I’m searching installation is because it’s 3 ft down which I don’t want to dig up 2x every year.
You can certainly have a clean out on the street side of the valve, just extend it above the flood level. If you have a house trap, no need to do that on the house side.
What happens if you install the backflow valve after the house trap, on the house side?
A potential disaster: all of the pressure of backed up waste water from the city sewer will be pressing up against the trap plugs, trying the blow them out. The sewer valve should therefore always be on the street side of the trap.
@@balkanplumbing Wow, how much pressure are you talking about? If the caps are tight and sealed, they can still blow? Why won't the cap off the backflow valve blow then?
Sewer valves are specifically designed to handle the pressure. Sewer trap plugs are not and can wear out. Act accordingly or as you said choose. Good luck!
@@balkanplumbing Unfortunately I am in a situation where the back flow valve is after the house trap in the basement. The house trap has two steel cleanout plugs screwed inside steel end caps which are clamped to the house U-trap via 4 inch flexible couplings. I ratcheted down all the clamps firmly and they are really tight on there. I hope they can handle the pressure from a back up. 🤞
I want to know the Wi-Fi alarm sewer backup
Where exactly are you located?
Who is responsible for installing these check valves? The home owner or city?
100% the property owner. No idea why they’re not mandatory when a house is built.
@@balkanplumbing They are here in Minnesota!
Would that work for keeping snakes from entering your home
Needed to see how the cast iron one looks from inside and d😅don’t do it 😢
If you look through our channel we have a few cast iron check valve videos. FYI
th-cam.com/video/rgTI4inznic/w-d-xo.html
Both are flapper valves it seems. Disappointing that each valve, brand new with best possible seal condition, can leak a steady stream of sewage back into your house.
Can toilet paper be flushed through this from the house side with no worries?
Absolutely, and all drain waste as well. The flap should be cleaned about once a year or so.
The title of this video should be "Why I recommend a Cyclone brand check valve"
So??? Great product.
@@balkanplumbing Yes, you make that more than obvious.
Link to the check valve?
In the video description, no?
@balkanplumbing there's a link to a page that has a more in-depth guide that relates to this video, but I'm not seeing anywhere to purchase one of these, or a link to buy.
@@CloudfeatherRusticWorks Look up Cyclone Valves. Hope that works! Mention Balkan.