Cleaning Sport Anchors
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ส.ค. 2024
- Two different ways to clean sport anchors while single pitch climbing, these are the most common techniques for cleaning sport anchors and are usually the two most common techniques that climbing gyms and most guide services will teach.
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Nice explanation, thanks Ryan. One thing I'd add though, when clipping the daisychain PAS (or sling PAS) into a quad anchor as shown here make sure the climber knows to clip only 2 or 3 strands, never all 4. Shouldn't actually matter especially if the bolts are good and tested, but you never know.
Matt, would you please explain why you shouldn’t clip all 4 strands? Thanks!
@@dacarantonm sure, if you can make a quad yourself you'll see straight away that if one of the bolts fails, the masterpoint/belay carabiner will slide over the limiter knots off the end of the whole thing. Hope this helps, it's much easier to understand if you can see it.
Got it ! Thanks a lot !
Great video. I was taught by a guide to lower off the chain exactly like this a few weeks ago. Nice to have this video as a refresher. Thanks for posting.
I enjoyed your rant at the end.
”Everyone will laugh at you if you do forget". lol Thanks man cool vid.
Nice job! The more of these you do, the better you get!
Good video. I might have changed the order of the cleaning tutorial to start with the safest method (getting lowered) to less safe methods (rappelling) since new folks will be watching the video. You probably would also want to show the clean version when you can't pass a bight through the anchor to set up the lower and instead have to pass just one end of the rope since that scenario is not uncommon still. The differences are not that big for a veteran but for new folks, it would probably help to see both versions to use depending on the situation up there.
I like your well explained videos. I know how hard it is to get your message across via video ! You may want to add a disclaimer to your videos and vlog as there are a lot of variations to methods and people should understand that they should seek professional training before they attempt this stuff. I personally like your vids cos its like a refresher course and even though ive been doin this stuff for many years i would never claim to know everything and i can always benefit from new ideas., especially like as you say the the industry keeps changing and evolving. great work mate.keep it up.
Great tutorial man! One of the best video i've seen so far
For the lowering method, wouldn’t it be a bit safer to pull the night through the anchors and attach to your harness BEFORE you detach the rope from the bolts? I say this because after you unclip the rope, you are relying on only you’re sling, and it would be safer to have some redundancy while you are looping the rope through the bolts. I am by no means an experienced climber so correct me if i’m wrong. Great vid!
You are totally correct..... just my 2 cents......
Nothing wrong with your idea, however, the climber is still on his sling (which is redundant in the masterpoint) as well as STILL ON BELAY with the rope, and presumably has other quickdraws below him to catch a fall, in the unlikely event of a sling failure while just hanging. It becomes cumbersome sometimes to get the rope through the chains when it's being "snaked" through the lockers on the Masterpoint. The MOST important part, and most dangerous part of this, is to make sure that you don't untie from the ROPE until AFTER you have fed the rope through the chains and reattached to your harness. (i.e. better to have two ropes attached than none)
Great, very useful video...thanks!
It’s not necessary when lowering down to tie the eight figure directly to the harness?
Great video and very informative! please make more videos.
'If you don't trust the person who is belaying you to lower you', I guess this person shouldn't belay you in the first place?
Thanks for the great videos! On your lower off method. Can you not lower off one locker? You are trusting one sling, one rope and etc. So why do you need to backup the locker if it is locked? Is that for your comfort? ex) th-cam.com/video/WzmbTHe_ql0/w-d-xo.html
Is there terrain where lowering off might not be an (or best) option thus rappelling would be best?
I don't think I would choose to lower off the chains because of a specific terrain I'm climbing on. I usually choose to lower off because it's the fastest method, or depending on the experience of my belayer, so I don't really factor in my terrain choice into cleaning the anchor.
As for the two carabiners I personally only use one locker to lower off, I backed it up during the video because I saw an AMGA video where they backed up the locker and that seems to be where the industry is moving to by backing up a critical link like that, I guess Dale doesn't really care about that in the new video which is perfectly valid, he knows a lot more than me and has a ton of more experience so I would definitely do what he says! So just go with what you comfortable with :)
You could just clip the atc straight to the belay loop instead of sling extending. I think that is much easier.
If he clips his ATC directly into his belay loop he runs the risk of the ATC touching his third hand and causing the third hand to fail.