Here’s a method that allows the climber to remain connected to the anchor the whole time. Stay focused and check all your systems before removing your lanyard! #Petzl #climbing #RockClimbing #ClimbingTechnique
To have a second save point in case of HMS fail - not a mistake. On the other hand the mistake was not cliping the final quickdraw at the chains (cliping the PAS before the final quick draw might be dangerous in case of fall before you clip in - in addition the cleaning was made only with one safe point, the second one should be the final quickdraw).
It adds redundancy to the system. But regarding to the German Alpine Club (DAV), a single screw gate carabiner should be good enough in this specific use case.
The quickdraw is unnecessary. The screw gate doesn’t need extra redundancy in my opinion (think of when you’re belaying, only one biner). But why is he lowering off only one bolt?? This is where it’s much more important with redundancy in my opinion, cause you can never be too sure about the conditions of the bolts.. curious what others think of this.
I agree with the unnecessary of the quickdraw. Doesn’t make sense to me. About the single bolt, I think he secured himself on the top bolt to allow the rope pass through the ring which is link to the chain and the lower bolt. So he lowered himself through the ring not any of the bolt. This is quite standard anchor in Europe.
@@devieillerocheAh yes, i can see the ring is held in place by two bolts, so thats probably enough redundancy. I’m used to each bold having separate rings, and passing the rope trough both rings. Another thing i want to point out about the anchor is the way the ring is hung directly from the sharp bolt hanger. Maybe this is normal practice some places, but i’ve never seen it before. If instead the ring is hung from a chain, that again is hung from the bolt hanger, then the ring will not get beat up by sharp metal which could seriously damage the rope while lowering. The purpose of using a ring for lowering instead of a chain is that it rotates, and experiences even wear and tear from the hundreds of rope lowerings. Not sure if I got my point across.
The ring is connected to both bolts: It goes directly through the lower bolt, and there's a chain connecting it to the upper bolt. You can see it around 16 seconds into the video. th-cam.com/video/aqYE8KXIvEI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=0So5dK7xTNpRbx7v&t=16 So the ring is still a single point of failure... but also very unlikely to fail.
Better do another figure 8 with the rest of the rope than putting another quick draw to the same knot
Why adding the quickdraw?
Because…
To have a second save point in case of HMS fail - not a mistake. On the other hand the mistake was not cliping the final quickdraw at the chains (cliping the PAS before the final quick draw might be dangerous in case of fall before you clip in - in addition the cleaning was made only with one safe point, the second one should be the final quickdraw).
It adds redundancy to the system. But regarding to the German Alpine Club (DAV), a single screw gate carabiner should be good enough in this specific use case.
@@VicitoriachiI think adding unnecessary step to things in climbing make it more dangerous at the end of the day.
It's so unnecessary.
Thanks for sharing 👍
The place for that last quickdraw would have been the top anchor ring before clipping the PAS, not the belay loop...
The quickdraw is unnecessary. The screw gate doesn’t need extra redundancy in my opinion (think of when you’re belaying, only one biner). But why is he lowering off only one bolt?? This is where it’s much more important with redundancy in my opinion, cause you can never be too sure about the conditions of the bolts.. curious what others think of this.
I agree with the unnecessary of the quickdraw. Doesn’t make sense to me. About the single bolt, I think he secured himself on the top bolt to allow the rope pass through the ring which is link to the chain and the lower bolt. So he lowered himself through the ring not any of the bolt. This is quite standard anchor in Europe.
@@devieillerocheAh yes, i can see the ring is held in place by two bolts, so thats probably enough redundancy. I’m used to each bold having separate rings, and passing the rope trough both rings. Another thing i want to point out about the anchor is the way the ring is hung directly from the sharp bolt hanger. Maybe this is normal practice some places, but i’ve never seen it before. If instead the ring is hung from a chain, that again is hung from the bolt hanger, then the ring will not get beat up by sharp metal which could seriously damage the rope while lowering. The purpose of using a ring for lowering instead of a chain is that it rotates, and experiences even wear and tear from the hundreds of rope lowerings. Not sure if I got my point across.
The ring is connected to both bolts: It goes directly through the lower bolt, and there's a chain connecting it to the upper bolt. You can see it around 16 seconds into the video. th-cam.com/video/aqYE8KXIvEI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=0So5dK7xTNpRbx7v&t=16
So the ring is still a single point of failure... but also very unlikely to fail.