I'm so glad I came across your channel I just got an 2008 Ford explorer XLT and of course I don't know about cars so this really helps because if I have any of this going on at least I can tell them what I know it might be because of your video's so I thank you so much for making these videos I really appreciate it because some people see a woman coming in and try to take advantage of them so this helps me out a lot because I'm a single mother of four but I also have my pastor or my cousin that can go with me to see what's going on with it
I'm running smooth at 260k miles, which is so ridiculous that it makes me anxious that there is something wrong that I'm missing. I do the oil and filter when the message center tells me to, and the only thing I had to replace was the starter.
I bought an air intake hose from you guys recently and you did a vid on how to do it. The part was great quality and I did it and felt amazing I saved 900$. You guys were even the cheapest online for parts. I don't know why you guys are underrated, you guys are amazing. Unless I need something yesterday I will always order from your site. Thank you so much.
I feel like I can give a different look on this car because I am a 18yr that thinks it’s a race car🤣 I take my 2007 V6 to the car meets every weekend and I have pushed it to its limits time and time again. I am at 160k and it’s had some issues, I rebuilt my transmission two years ago for 3k and I definitely have the ticking noise talked about in the video. Sometimes when I floor it you definitely smell the burnt oil, it gets 9 miles per gallon and It’s missing enough bolts to scare just about anybody into not getting in but this truck has been a amazing vehicle and surprisingly capable of anything you need it to do from pulling a buddy out of a ditch to doing donuts in the pit this thing will fr do it all. With the back seats down the back turns into a apartment, there is plenty of room for two people to sleep comfortably, play a mf board game back there and honestly I can live out of the back of this car. The original rims started to discolor and look nasty so I spray painted them with black chalkboard paint and the weird chrome grill is pealing and cracking so I think that’s next.😂 this truck has been through a lot with me behind the wheel and the little V6 sounds still put a smile on my face every time it shifts with a little bit of love this truck will be anything you need it to be. 9/10 review from me this thing can be a lot of fun.
I'm at 160K on my 2006. I bought it at 115k for $3500. First thing I did was the T-stat assembly. 2nd was the rear wiper motor. I've replaced both AC hoses and currently needs new actuator and possibly low side pressure switch. The valve cover gaskets are leaking so I'll have to replace those along with the Intake gasket and while I'm there, the 2 small heater hoses. Overall, it's been a great truck and I just came back from a 1600 mile trip with my airstream camper. Luckily there was no need for AC on the trip, but the defroster wasn't hitting the glass because the actuator broke so I had to use Rain X defogger. Surprisingly great truck, just swallows gas.
not that guy obviously, but i have. 2008 with 270k miles and ive changed out the thermostat and blend door actuator. truck runs good and going to be changing the muffler, and possibly U joints soon. the harmonic balancer is out and it has some idle problems that changing spark plugs will hopefully fix. other than that it's been pretty good to me.
I have a 2010 Explorer Eddie Bauer with the V8 engine. I love mine!! 153k and no issues that can't be fixed. I have the automatic/digital climate control system, dual zone as well, and have never had issues with the blend door actuator. The only other issue I have from this video is the seized up rear wiper motor, and that seems to be one of the most common issues on these. I would also argue that the V8, even the 3v 4.6, is more reliable than the 4.0 V6. It is a simpler design, it doesn't have 3 timing chains, it is FAR less stressed than the V6, and it gets the same fuel economy, I average 17 mpg in mine. Plus, it has 292 horsepower, and it MOVES the thing when you floor it. The V6 in these was over-stressed and that means that not only do you get worse fuel economy, but it will break more.
Only one of those problems I've had is the Blend door actuator. Yeah, it's a pain to get to. Then I had to do it twice because the replacement part was defective. Don't worry, it wasn't you. The trick to getting the top bolt of the actuator out is to put a long extension on your ratchet and go in the long way from next to the steering column. I'll tell you the problem I had with the thermostat housing that left me dead on the road. See that plug on top of the t-stat housing? Next to the temp sensor? Well, I had the retainer clip fail and the plug blew out. Good luck finding that part. I keep a spare on hand now.
Thanks! I've been wondering what that ticking noise was at startup that sounded like a lifter. The car is still under warranty - you just saved me a bundle!
You fail to mention the wire harness in late 06 + - thru early 08 +or- becoming brittle from the heat and disintegrating often inside the wire loom and always at or near a connector . This will cause a vehicle to give all kinds of crazy codes and have you trying to fix everything that isnt broke. Save your self alot of time and trouble and if you find your wires are like that just go ahead and replace the harness and be done with it but like a later model harness
Yeah my family's Explorer is having this problem, which I'm surprised it's not one of the five, as many people are curious on this problem. They get hot and crack like that, because I guess Ford thought it was a good idea to route the wiring for it RIGHT NEXT TO THE COOLING HOSES. Idek at this point...
This should also be for the 2006-2010 Mercury Mountaineer. Same as the Explorer, just different grille, headlights and taillights. Also side fenders. A vehicle that I have owned since it was brand new. I have the Premier trim. Just went through the exhaust manifold being replaced on the driver's side. As far as the A/C and Heat, mine is digital. So far, it's been working fine.
Same with my exhaust manifold, 2006 Eddie Bauer, it has the dual climate control system, and the passenger blend door stuck open allowing cold air. If you start hearing a creaking noise coming from under the dash, you going to have issues.
My Husband and I have a 2005 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer for over 9 years and the best SUV Ford Explorer besides our 2005 Ford Explorer Limited had over 2 years and our Ford Explorer s are definitely never a disappointment to us I will only own Ford Explorer s 2005 to 2010
Wow explaining about the exhaust manifold is enlightening. I inherited a 2007 Mercury mountaineer for my father-in-law when he passed and it had that ticking noise and a friend said that's common in Ford explorers and mountaineers and you explained exactly what I hear my son has got the vehicle now and he said it's irritating so we're going to check it out and see if there's a crack in the exhaust manifold. Thank you for that information it's very helpful also can the manifold crack be sealed somehow or does it have to be replaced?
For me the only 2 real problems are engine and transmission dies fast. Other than that it’s not a problems. If the vehicle goes 200-300k miles without engine/transmission issues it’s a good car.
Thanks for the video. Well done. I have a 4th gen Explorer Limited with 330K. I’ve done lots of work on her myself but she’s reliable and strong for summer trailer pulls as well. I have had that annoying ticking as the blend door actuator tries to move the blend door. I’ve changed both side’s blend door actuator motors in an ‘uneducated’ attempt to fix but that did not work. Must be the door that is getting caught up on something… going to be a pain to pull everything apart to get at it….oh well…. Another issue I had was that I couldn’t get her out of park, without reaching my little finger in the cut out that is hidden under the rubber liner of the front cup holder. Now there are lots of videos on line about taking the console apart and replacing the little white ‘servo’ (or whatever it’s called). I did that twice, no make that THREE times but no luck. I finally replaced the entire shifter assembly (found at local junk yard for $25). That did the trick! Must have been some piece of plastic had bent a bit over time…. Oh, I also replaced the brake pedal switch - the one that send the signal to the shifter that then allows the finger switch on the shifter to be squeezed….this didn’t help either….
I have 2010 adrenaline sport Trac awd with the 4.0 v6 SOHC version. Currently at 266,000 miles. Hope I can make it to 300k and beyond. Original trans and engine.
I have a 2007 Ford Sport Trac. It is running down the battery if not driven every day. I had thi9s problem once before and it was the cluster. I have taken out the battery and slow charged it and it test good. Its not that old. Its an Interstate battery. I see lots of ways to check for a draw. Can you give me your advice on this. Thanks in advance Don Graham
Thermostat housing needs to be replaced with an aluminum housing, Motorcraft or aftermarket version, otherwise they just keep leaking, horrible design. Wheel bearings & rear glass hatch latches were 2 items definitely needed to be added to this top 5, 7, 10....
Rear wiper motor, wheel bearings front and rear, blend doors, ABS control module (real fun one since its no longer available, oh and requires a dealer level computer to program it & bleed it). So far those are the 4 issues I've had with my 08 Explorer with the 4.6L V8. Relatively low miles on my vehicle 132k, but all these issues are apparently due to piss poor quality. I'd get rid of it but right now the cost to replace it is way too high.
What about the drivers side upper door hinge making a clicking sound ?? The plate behind the hinge attachment plate moves. Did the spot welds break ??? What is the fix it method lSir ??? Thanks
2010 XLT V6 ...275,000 miles - to get here - Wheel Bearings (6) Jaspers replacement engine after the timing chain failed - two transmissions- Transfer case bearing - Radiator - Alternator - Peeling Chrome on gearshift knob - New struts - still my daily driver. Make sure you flush the radiator and trans yearly and learn how to replace the wheel bearings yourself. Recent is a thump out of the rear end. Ford dealership could not identify yet told me to drive it until it fails, ugh.
2007 ford explorer major vehicle issues, mice made a major nest under the intake manifold, no ac, no air coming out of dash vents, transmision not going to second gear.. found vacumn lines eaten, repaired, found head manifold heat sensor wires eaten, found a few harness wires eaten,,fix all and all systems work great.. cost 5 dollars for soder and wire!!!
w just bought a 2007 explorer today at used car lot and i heard a ticking under the hood and thought it might be a valve ticking but now you changed my direction on thinking and as i was bringing it home the front end is roaring real loud and i dont know what it is yet but will find our an the rear blower is constantly blowing even when off half of the warning lights are on and the fuel gauge is not working and low fuel indicator is on / there is more problems but will solve in time
I keep getting the same code ( p0401 ) after replacing the egr valve 3 times, intake manifold gaskets, exhaust manifold gaskets . Not sure what else could be causing this ongoing issue.
@@kelleyhall939 I recently had the same problem. After 4 trips to 2 shops, they finally have it fixed. I'll see if I can find the work order to let you know.
omg the WORST. If you ever hear that, forget it, lol. I had a 98 Mercury Villager with broken bolts. TWO shops wouldn't even take the job. They said junk it. I said what if we jsut put in a different engine? They said same issue will happen, lol. Junked it.
I have one 2006 ford explorer Eddie Bauer. 206k miles has pcm problem and causes stuttering or a whining noises when accelerating after losing traction. Should put the money into fixing it or trade it in?
they forgot to mention.... wheel bearing assemblies at 100k, the timing chain cassette breaking at about 100k, and of course the transmission........ kinda more serious than what was in the video.................
Ya one other thing my man, the heat on my Ford Explorer does take I bit of time to heat up, I do notice that on the basis of what u explained on this video! I have had my '06 Ford Explorer about 2 years now, October 27, 2020, it's Chocolate Brown w/ Beige Interior!
Mines a 2008 Explorer sport Trac 4.0 V6 SOHC awd limited. Currently hit 200,666 miles. Running like a champ, only issue is for some odd reason, coolant leaks at the bottom of the radiator but it’s newly replaced 6mths ago so I’m lost. Rad cap is new, t-stat + housing is new upgraded metal one. No coolant mixing in oil so I’m lost. Some say these Explorers are regular for coolant loses or leaks. I don’t know. It does overheat, no issues otherwise, maybe I’ll try to see if there’s a nicer metal radiator out there versus the OEM plastic ones. But then again if OEM lasted over 200k, maybe this new OEM just has an issue/defect. Some even say the drain plug on the radiator somehow breaks or pops off, any input or related issues? 🤷♂️🤦♂️🤷♂️😞🤔 wish me luck, I call my truck Ghost! 👻
Dude you just told me everything that had already happened with my 03 Ford explorer, everything you just said happened to me, right now I'm having problems with rear wiper and ac blend for acculater
Never heard of an exhaust manifold issue with the 4.0 V6 in block cam OR the SOHC, but the 4.6 V8? Oh yeah, that and the 5.4 (not used in the exploders, but the same block as the 4.6). MY '07 had the rear wiper motor fail, plus the thermostat housing leak. Also had tranny issues - wouldn't hold overdrive...kept shifting back and forth rapidly, had to lock it out of O/D for a while. Replaced the servos with ones that have an O ring on the shaft...kind of a "band aid" so to speak. So far so good, but I know I'll have to put a new one in it at some point. Haven't experienced the other issues (knock on wood) so far. Oh yeah, it seems the ignition switch likes to fail on these years too...hit a bump and the dome light comes on. Other than that, they're fine cars.
I have a question. A friend gave us a 2007 Ford explorer that has 4WD and when switching from 4H to 4L it takes alot of trickery to make it switch. We found that it is easier make it switch in when in neutral and after a few pumps of the breaks. And going to 4x4 auto is nearly impossible but can be done after a few minutes. I was wondering, is this a huge issue and if so what is general idea solution? Any help is greatly appreciated. Additional info in case it's needed, the buttons respond just fine, its just hard to make it switch from 4H to 4L (or vise versa) even to 4x4 auto from either one.
You’re supposed to have it neutral when switching from auto to high or low. I think newer vehicles don’t requiere you to be in neutral but these explorers do requiere to be in neutral
I love the looks of the 2006-2010 Ford Eddie Bauer Explorer and all I do is put money into it fixing this fixing that. I have always had great luck with Fords until I bought a 2006 Ford Eddie Bauer Explorer and I even bought it with 67,000 miles on it and paid 9,400 which they were asking over 10,000 but the used car lot didn't make sure the Vehicle had good tires on it and there were some blemishes and I pointed them out. Its black with Gold trim I really like the color 4.0 V6 Fully loaded with DVD player how ever I have probably put another 10,000 over a period of time. That includes 1,800 on fixing the reverse in the transmission. At less then 100,000 the timing chain guide broke which filings got in the engine instead of overhauling the engine I decided to buy a crate engine from Advanced Auto parts which my brother put the new engine in for me and while he was doing all that I had him replace the plugs and wires, New Alternator, New Starter, New Belt. Every thing new so a guy doesn't have any problems down the road. That cost me over $4,200. Someone side swiped my vehicle which I had full coverage and had the entire Left side fixed that cost 5,000 because the guy that stole a vehicle that had blown tire side swiped me and he didn't have any money. Later I had some more work done I had the air conditioner all redone that cost me 900.00 including labor the following year it was blowing hot air turns out I need a new computer that cost me about 1,200 including labor so now I decide I am going to upgrade my suspension and brakes so I get a good deal on strut assembly with new coil over springs for 50.00 brand new well the labor on that with new brakes that includes adding new front upper A arms with grease certs I spent 2,500 to 3000 a new Fuel Pump and filter was part of that 3000.00 billI paid the body shop a additional 1,200 because the other mechanic only put one A arm instead of 2 on the front along with new wheel hubs. This year I had the rear axle bearings go bad that set me back 1,200. Now add it all up. I could probably bought 3 of the same vehicle for that. Nothing but a money pit. Now my torque converter is slipping when you get it up to 65-70 Mph so Looks like that will cost me 3,400 to get it rebuilt Looks great drives great. I use it a lot and travel a lot it now has 165,000 on it. I take great care of it. Keep the oil changed and new tires on it. I will also need to probably get a new exhaust pipe and muffler put on it later. I also put a new stereo in it 300.00 the digital clock stopped working on the factory unit. I really don't like the newer Explorers not enough room in the cargo area and the floor pans are lower. My son bought a 2014 Durango which I don't mind the looks of them. Blazers are ugly I don't like square wheel wells. Bigger SUV's are all ugly they are all to square and they are gas hogs. Certain years of Ford escapes look good but not enough room in the cargo area. The 2002-2010 Explorer is just right for the right look and room which is easy to park and get out of tight situations but the upkeep sucks on them. Maybe I bought I lemon and got scammed from shitty use car lot. I know others that had better luck then I had.
My 2010 explorer looked good 70k miles when I bought it two years ago. After two years everything broke at once. Transmissions,key fobs, thermostat, week hub, starter, like it was built to literally crumble. Never again anything ford for me.
@@TheYellowBrickRoadTV word of advice if you go to buy older vehicles always go higher mileage, anything under 100k hasn't hit enough miles to start having issues yet, anything over has probably had issues and have been resolved, I never have problems with high mileage but I have had them with low
Also 3rd row seats the gears are plastic and don't last - fix is to replace the whole seat frame (yikes!) Stereo display goes blank common to many Fords of that era, fix is to resolder inside the stereo (videos online). Radiator is plastic and fails. Some models coil fuses to spark plug. Sway bar connectors simply fall off. O/D button breaks. Etc., etc. So much plastic these days nothing lasts.
I have the same car & i have a problem when im at a red light or slowing down my car decides to turn off. So when that happens check engine light comes on & the oil light come on. So when that happens i put the car in park turn off the car & then turn it back on & starts to go. Also it doesnt start acting like that right away.
Fuel pressure senor under thr intake (4.0) Key wont come out of ignition because the gear shifter doesnt think it is park because the pin backed out for the microswitch
You left out the most important issue and thats the timing slides that are made to break.Can you tell me when this happens does it ruin the heads or valves?Thanks
Yes, if the timing chain snap you will bend valves. Trust me when they’re done that got a junkyard motor with 114,000 miles had shop put it in had the truck back for about three months I have putting about 2000 and 3000 miles on it since back now on passenger side. It has a slight ticking noise only when it’s warm going to change the oil and see if that solves the issue, I hope I didn’t waste $3700 to have the same problem reoccur if it still has the same problem I’m going to scrap it I advise you to do the same but cut your converters off before you fully scrap it I think they’re at least $500 a piece
I have a 2006 Ford Explorer and only when I started my car kind of rocks back and forth and that's it it doesn't do it anymore it's just when I started you have any idea what this might be
Probably a blend door actuator, or stuck blend door issue. I had that issue. Cost a bunch to fix. It's a difficult job to do even at the shop. I think it was like $400 or around there.
Problem Number six... I had spongy breaks at 100k i had Midas, replace the Power Booster/Master Cylinder, Both front brake Calipers, and hoses.. Still have spongy Breaks.. Any ideas here? TIA
otherwise is this 2008-2010 Sport trac 4x4 a solid vehicle ? Reliable ? I am considering one as a 2nd odd jobs off beat n path vehicles. finding them with 200k to over 300k kms from $6-$10k in Cda
I've had to replace the thermostat housing on my 2006 Explorer about every 25,000 miles. I was charged $450 for the first two times it was replaced, by local "discount" car shops. After that, I watched a vid on youtube, and I do it myself in 40 minutes, with just a few tools for under $100. The auto repair shop "book" says it's a two hour job. Ford should of made it out of metal.
I keep getting a check engine light with the same code after numerous repairs (p0401) . Now when i turn on the car the radio wont turn on or front wipers. Then after a few minutes they work. Not sure whats the problem or what keeps causing the same code. Any advise please
2008 explorer 4.0 bought at 86k now at 90.5 k so far ive changed the thermostat and the water pump. right now its a rough idle some times mostly when first started up after it warms up its great and has bogged down and lost power on me 2 times in the past 9 months I've had it, code read that a fuel injector is clogged which is usual 100k mile maitnace. also a control module needs to be replaced so every once in a while after running 10 hours on the hiway it'll shift hard and up shift and then Ill pull over and stop and rest for 30 mins and it didn't do it again. i bought for 800$ from a old lady only 1 owner. so it was taken care of... except the minor t bone she got into so the back door has a good bent up section but still works and doesn't leak or anything gonna change that next. other than that I couldn't ask for a better car for the price I mean this thing is a little beast. makes me want to get a new explorer from how good this one treated me
The intake gaskets on this 4.0 engine is not one piece as you show! It is six individual rubber washer types. This is a kind of hard job to replace them, but doable if you are devoted to getting into tight spaces and getting your hands cut up a little.
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I'm so glad I came across your channel I just got an 2008 Ford explorer XLT and of course I don't know about cars so this really helps because if I have any of this going on at least I can tell them what I know it might be because of your video's so I thank you so much for making these videos I really appreciate it because some people see a woman coming in and try to take advantage of them so this helps me out a lot because I'm a single mother of four but I also have my pastor or my cousin that can go with me to see what's going on with it
I'm running smooth at 260k miles, which is so ridiculous that it makes me anxious that there is something wrong that I'm missing. I do the oil and filter when the message center tells me to, and the only thing I had to replace was the starter.
I bought an air intake hose from you guys recently and you did a vid on how to do it. The part was great quality and I did it and felt amazing I saved 900$. You guys were even the cheapest online for parts. I don't know why you guys are underrated, you guys are amazing. Unless I need something yesterday I will always order from your site. Thank you so much.
+Yosif Thank you so much for the great feedback!
I feel like I can give a different look on this car because I am a 18yr that thinks it’s a race car🤣 I take my 2007 V6 to the car meets every weekend and I have pushed it to its limits time and time again. I am at 160k and it’s had some issues, I rebuilt my transmission two years ago for 3k and I definitely have the ticking noise talked about in the video. Sometimes when I floor it you definitely smell the burnt oil, it gets 9 miles per gallon and It’s missing enough bolts to scare just about anybody into not getting in but this truck has been a amazing vehicle and surprisingly capable of anything you need it to do from pulling a buddy out of a ditch to doing donuts in the pit this thing will fr do it all. With the back seats down the back turns into a apartment, there is plenty of room for two people to sleep comfortably, play a mf board game back there and honestly I can live out of the back of this car. The original rims started to discolor and look nasty so I spray painted them with black chalkboard paint and the weird chrome grill is pealing and cracking so I think that’s next.😂 this truck has been through a lot with me behind the wheel and the little V6 sounds still put a smile on my face every time it shifts with a little bit of love this truck will be anything you need it to be. 9/10 review from me this thing can be a lot of fun.
Are you done?
@@henryhooker3282 same I stopped reading at 9 miles per gallon
My 2007 explorer limited just his 260,000 miles and it’s still running like a champ lol
Dude ive had 2 of them and im 18🤣🤣 i do literally the exact same shit as you🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Interesting review. Love my explorer as well. 228000 miles on it
I'm at 160K on my 2006. I bought it at 115k for $3500. First thing I did was the T-stat assembly. 2nd was the rear wiper motor. I've replaced both AC hoses and currently needs new actuator and possibly low side pressure switch. The valve cover gaskets are leaking so I'll have to replace those along with the Intake gasket and while I'm there, the 2 small heater hoses. Overall, it's been a great truck and I just came back from a 1600 mile trip with my airstream camper. Luckily there was no need for AC on the trip, but the defroster wasn't hitting the glass because the actuator broke so I had to use Rain X defogger. Surprisingly great truck, just swallows gas.
Hey how the ford treating you?? I just bought a 2009 one
not that guy obviously, but i have. 2008 with 270k miles and ive changed out the thermostat and blend door actuator. truck runs good and going to be changing the muffler, and possibly U joints soon.
the harmonic balancer is out and it has some idle problems that changing spark plugs will hopefully fix.
other than that it's been pretty good to me.
I have a 2010 Explorer Eddie Bauer with the V8 engine. I love mine!! 153k and no issues that can't be fixed. I have the automatic/digital climate control system, dual zone as well, and have never had issues with the blend door actuator. The only other issue I have from this video is the seized up rear wiper motor, and that seems to be one of the most common issues on these. I would also argue that the V8, even the 3v 4.6, is more reliable than the 4.0 V6. It is a simpler design, it doesn't have 3 timing chains, it is FAR less stressed than the V6, and it gets the same fuel economy, I average 17 mpg in mine. Plus, it has 292 horsepower, and it MOVES the thing when you floor it. The V6 in these was over-stressed and that means that not only do you get worse fuel economy, but it will break more.
Only one of those problems I've had is the Blend door actuator. Yeah, it's a pain to get to. Then I had to do it twice because the replacement part was defective. Don't worry, it wasn't you. The trick to getting the top bolt of the actuator out is to put a long extension on your ratchet and go in the long way from next to the steering column.
I'll tell you the problem I had with the thermostat housing that left me dead on the road. See that plug on top of the t-stat housing? Next to the temp sensor? Well, I had the retainer clip fail and the plug blew out. Good luck finding that part. I keep a spare on hand now.
The problems that are shown in the video, those are the ones I have right now on my 2007 ford explorer. Thank you for that great info.
Rear wiper can seize up. Just disassemble clean rust, add lube good to go.
Thanks! I've been wondering what that ticking noise was at startup that sounded like a lifter. The car is still under warranty - you just saved me a bundle!
No transmission dip stick, heater control valve leaking, dash cluster lights are dead, egr problems. Just some significant ones off the top of my head
Spot on. at 141k miles, ours has had #1, #2, and #5. Thankfully, no intake or exhaust manifold problems ... yet.
Great things to know and some commenters have great knowledge also. This video had great audio volume.
You fail to mention the wire harness in late 06 + - thru early 08 +or- becoming brittle from the heat and disintegrating often inside the wire loom and always at or near a connector .
This will cause a vehicle to give all kinds of crazy codes and have you trying to fix everything that isnt broke.
Save your self alot of time and trouble and if you find your wires are like that just go ahead and replace the harness and be done with it but like a later model harness
Yeah my family's Explorer is having this problem, which I'm surprised it's not one of the five, as many people are curious on this problem. They get hot and crack like that, because I guess Ford thought it was a good idea to route the wiring for it RIGHT NEXT TO THE COOLING HOSES. Idek at this point...
This should also be for the 2006-2010 Mercury Mountaineer. Same as the Explorer, just different grille, headlights and taillights. Also side fenders. A vehicle that I have owned since it was brand new. I have the Premier trim. Just went through the exhaust manifold being replaced on the driver's side. As far as the A/C and Heat, mine is digital. So far, it's been working fine.
+TheReal1LoudMerc Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Same with my exhaust manifold, 2006 Eddie Bauer, it has the dual climate control system, and the passenger blend door stuck open allowing cold air. If you start hearing a creaking noise coming from under the dash, you going to have issues.
My Husband and I have a 2005 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer for over 9 years and the best SUV Ford Explorer besides our 2005 Ford Explorer Limited had over 2 years and our Ford Explorer s are definitely never a disappointment to us I will only own Ford Explorer s 2005 to 2010
Wow explaining about the exhaust manifold is enlightening. I inherited a 2007 Mercury mountaineer for my father-in-law when he passed and it had that ticking noise and a friend said that's common in Ford explorers and mountaineers and you explained exactly what I hear my son has got the vehicle now and he said it's irritating so we're going to check it out and see if there's a crack in the exhaust manifold. Thank you for that information it's very helpful also can the manifold crack be sealed somehow or does it have to be replaced?
For me the only 2 real problems are engine and transmission dies fast. Other than that it’s not a problems. If the vehicle goes 200-300k miles without engine/transmission issues it’s a good car.
+Andy Ares Thanks for the feedback!
Thanks for the video. Well done. I have a 4th gen Explorer Limited with 330K. I’ve done lots of work on her myself but she’s reliable and strong for summer trailer pulls as well. I have had that annoying ticking as the blend door actuator tries to move the blend door. I’ve changed both side’s blend door actuator motors in an ‘uneducated’ attempt to fix but that did not work. Must be the door that is getting caught up on something… going to be a pain to pull everything apart to get at it….oh well….
Another issue I had was that I couldn’t get her out of park, without reaching my little finger in the cut out that is hidden under the rubber liner of the front cup holder. Now there are lots of videos on line about taking the console apart and replacing the little white ‘servo’ (or whatever it’s called). I did that twice, no make that THREE times but no luck. I finally replaced the entire shifter assembly (found at local junk yard for $25). That did the trick! Must have been some piece of plastic had bent a bit over time…. Oh, I also replaced the brake pedal switch - the one that send the signal to the shifter that then allows the finger switch on the shifter to be squeezed….this didn’t help either….
Thanks for all the info but what about the v8 model 4.6 is it better or same problems
Great video!
Question; if having manifold issues of any kind, would it throw a code for diagnostic?
thank you for your help 🙏🏻
I have 2010 adrenaline sport Trac awd with the 4.0 v6 SOHC version. Currently at 266,000 miles. Hope I can make it to 300k and beyond. Original trans and engine.
Great job explaining with simplicity. Thank you.
great video, I just bought one of these as a Utility Vehicle and 4 out of the 5 with the same symptoms.
Awesome videos. I love the explanation associated with the part and repair. Keep up the great work!
I have a 2007 Ford Sport Trac. It is running down the battery if not driven every day. I had thi9s problem once before and it was the cluster. I have taken out the battery and slow charged it and it test good. Its not that old. Its an Interstate battery. I see lots of ways to check for a draw. Can you give me your advice on this. Thanks in advance Don Graham
I am surprised front wheel bearings weren't top of this list. Also wonder if items 2,3 and 4 are more less prevalent on the v6 vs the v8.
Lol right
The V6 has some problems.
@@northdakotaham1752 yeah its missing 2 cylinders for starters and still drinks gas like a v8 lol
Thermostat housing needs to be replaced with an aluminum housing, Motorcraft or aftermarket version, otherwise they just keep leaking, horrible design. Wheel bearings & rear glass hatch latches were 2 items definitely needed to be added to this top 5, 7, 10....
The V8 has an aluminum housing.
Rear wiper motor, wheel bearings front and rear, blend doors, ABS control module (real fun one since its no longer available, oh and requires a dealer level computer to program it & bleed it). So far those are the 4 issues I've had with my 08 Explorer with the 4.6L V8. Relatively low miles on my vehicle 132k, but all these issues are apparently due to piss poor quality.
I'd get rid of it but right now the cost to replace it is way too high.
This breakdown is fantastic!
What about the drivers side upper door hinge making a clicking sound ?? The plate behind the hinge attachment plate moves. Did the spot welds break ??? What is the fix it method lSir ??? Thanks
Does that apply to the Sport Trac from 2006-2010 as well?
Que buen video la verdad muy informativo gracias por compartir con nosotros 😊😉
Thank you for your excellent information Ford explorer potential problems.
Great job
Excellent. What a great Tech. Thank you!
2010 XLT V6 ...275,000 miles - to get here - Wheel Bearings (6) Jaspers replacement engine after the timing chain failed - two transmissions- Transfer case bearing - Radiator - Alternator - Peeling Chrome on gearshift knob - New struts - still my daily driver. Make sure you flush the radiator and trans yearly and learn how to replace the wheel bearings yourself. Recent is a thump out of the rear end. Ford dealership could not identify yet told me to drive it until it fails, ugh.
+James Holland Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Bro you bought the vehicle twice lol
2003 Eddie Bauer, 300,000 miles...
Do you have to take it in for a transmission service on these vehicles?
2007 ford explorer major vehicle issues, mice made a major nest under the intake manifold, no ac, no air coming out of dash vents, transmision not going to second gear.. found vacumn lines eaten, repaired, found head manifold heat sensor wires eaten, found a few harness wires eaten,,fix all and all systems work great.. cost 5 dollars for soder and wire!!!
w just bought a 2007 explorer today at used car lot and i heard a ticking under the hood and thought it might be a valve ticking but now you changed my direction on thinking and as i was bringing it home the front end is roaring real loud and i dont know what it is yet but will find our an the rear blower is constantly blowing even when off half of the warning lights are on and the fuel gauge is not working and low fuel indicator is on / there is more problems but will solve in time
Thanks so much for sharing!!!
Just wondering what's the exhaust manifold crack the problem with recent newer Ford Explorers. Police interceptors
Any advice for the rear windshield wiper not spraying? Nice videos!
2006 4.6, Just replaced right side manifold for the second time.
I wish Ford didn’t get rid of the modular
I keep getting the same code ( p0401 ) after replacing the egr valve 3 times, intake manifold gaskets, exhaust manifold gaskets . Not sure what else could be causing this ongoing issue.
EGR passage clogged
Faulty EGR Vacuum Modulator Valve
Faulty EGR Valve
Faulty EGR solenoid valve
EGR solenoid valve harness is open or shorted
EGR solenoid valve circuit poor electrical connection
Dead (Weak) battery
Faulty EGR temperature sensor and circuit
Exhaust gas leaks
Same problem. Did you ever get it fixed and what was it? I've been trying to figures mines out for months.
@@kelleyhall939 I recently had the same problem. After 4 trips to 2 shops, they finally have it fixed. I'll see if I can find the work order to let you know.
@@highstick100 Could you send me the info if you found it? I'm having these issues and I'd roll this car off a cliff if I could afford to.
Try replacing the EGR sensor. I know that's a problem on some Ford vehicles from this era.
broken exhaust manifold studs? sounds fun!
omg the WORST. If you ever hear that, forget it, lol. I had a 98 Mercury Villager with broken bolts. TWO shops wouldn't even take the job. They said junk it. I said what if we jsut put in a different engine? They said same issue will happen, lol. Junked it.
Same issues apply to the v8 or just the 6?
How do I operate my fo lights on the 2006 explorer model xlt
I have one 2006 ford explorer Eddie Bauer. 206k miles has pcm problem and causes stuttering or a whining noises when accelerating after losing traction. Should put the money into fixing it or trade it in?
Any tips on Fuse 42 blowing? (4.6) I've read online the usual culprit the O2 sensor wire laying on the exhaust, is this pretty plausible?
I have a 06 explorer. Died on the road. Replaced throttle body and crank sensor. Still have a crank no start. Do I have to recalibrate the com or ecm?
Was thinking of buying one with 233kms but I keep reading they have transmission issues? The one I’m looking at is 2006.
Can the thermostat being bad cause the fan to kick on when driving and cause the temp gauge to shoot up?
Thank you so much for that video really helped.
Hey, I can't find the Cabin Air Filer on my 2007 Ford Explorer XLT 4.0L...Pls. show me. It is not under the Passenger Side.
they forgot to mention.... wheel bearing assemblies at 100k, the timing chain cassette breaking at about 100k, and of course the transmission........ kinda more serious than what was in the video.................
These arn't common enough to be top 5 problems probably.
Great tips, thanks for sharing.
Ya one other thing my man, the heat on my Ford Explorer does take I bit of time to heat up, I do notice that on the basis of what u explained on this video! I have had my '06 Ford Explorer about 2 years now, October 27, 2020, it's Chocolate Brown w/ Beige Interior!
Rear axle bearings on this model also tend to wear out...
+TorturedPeace Thanks for the feedback!
Mines a 2008 Explorer sport Trac 4.0 V6 SOHC awd limited. Currently hit 200,666 miles. Running like a champ, only issue is for some odd reason, coolant leaks at the bottom of the radiator but it’s newly replaced 6mths ago so I’m lost. Rad cap is new, t-stat + housing is new upgraded metal one. No coolant mixing in oil so I’m lost. Some say these Explorers are regular for coolant loses or leaks. I don’t know. It does overheat, no issues otherwise, maybe I’ll try to see if there’s a nicer metal radiator out there versus the OEM plastic ones. But then again if OEM lasted over 200k, maybe this new OEM just has an issue/defect. Some even say the drain plug on the radiator somehow breaks or pops off, any input or related issues? 🤷♂️🤦♂️🤷♂️😞🤔 wish me luck, I call my truck Ghost! 👻
Gracias por el video, super! Saludos
Do I need a Heater Line on the Heater Control Valve and the heater core? Can I do without it?
Dude you just told me everything that had already happened with my 03 Ford explorer, everything you just said happened to me, right now I'm having problems with rear wiper and ac blend for acculater
+@godblessamerica8335 Thanks for the feedback!
Never heard of an exhaust manifold issue with the 4.0 V6 in block cam OR the SOHC, but the 4.6 V8? Oh yeah, that and the 5.4 (not used in the exploders, but the same block as the 4.6). MY '07 had the rear wiper motor fail, plus the thermostat housing leak. Also had tranny issues - wouldn't hold overdrive...kept shifting back and forth rapidly, had to lock it out of O/D for a while. Replaced the servos with ones that have an O ring on the shaft...kind of a "band aid" so to speak. So far so good, but I know I'll have to put a new one in it at some point. Haven't experienced the other issues (knock on wood) so far. Oh yeah, it seems the ignition switch likes to fail on these years too...hit a bump and the dome light comes on. Other than that, they're fine cars.
I have a question.
A friend gave us a 2007 Ford explorer that has 4WD and when switching from 4H to 4L it takes alot of trickery to make it switch. We found that it is easier make it switch in when in neutral and after a few pumps of the breaks. And going to 4x4 auto is nearly impossible but can be done after a few minutes. I was wondering, is this a huge issue and if so what is general idea solution? Any help is greatly appreciated.
Additional info in case it's needed, the buttons respond just fine, its just hard to make it switch from 4H to 4L (or vise versa) even to 4x4 auto from either one.
You’re supposed to have it neutral when switching from auto to high or low. I think newer vehicles don’t requiere you to be in neutral but these explorers do requiere to be in neutral
@@adriandiaz8124 Can you switch in park?
I love the looks of the 2006-2010 Ford Eddie Bauer Explorer and all I do is put money into it fixing this fixing that. I have always had great luck with Fords until I bought a 2006 Ford Eddie Bauer Explorer and I even bought it with 67,000 miles on it and paid 9,400 which they were asking over 10,000 but the used car lot didn't make sure the Vehicle had good tires on it and there were some blemishes and I pointed them out. Its black with Gold trim I really like the color 4.0 V6 Fully loaded with DVD player how ever I have probably put another 10,000 over a period of time. That includes 1,800 on fixing the reverse in the transmission. At less then 100,000 the timing chain guide broke which filings got in the engine instead of overhauling the engine I decided to buy a crate engine from Advanced Auto parts which my brother put the new engine in for me and while he was doing all that I had him replace the plugs and wires, New Alternator, New Starter, New Belt. Every thing new so a guy doesn't have any problems down the road. That cost me over $4,200. Someone side swiped my vehicle which I had full coverage and had the entire Left side fixed that cost 5,000 because the guy that stole a vehicle that had blown tire side swiped me and he didn't have any money. Later I had some more work done I had the air conditioner all redone that cost me 900.00 including labor the following year it was blowing hot air turns out I need a new computer that cost me about 1,200 including labor so now I decide I am going to upgrade my suspension and brakes so I get a good deal on strut assembly with new coil over springs for 50.00 brand new well the labor on that with new brakes that includes adding new front upper A arms with grease certs I spent 2,500 to 3000 a new Fuel Pump and filter was part of that 3000.00 billI paid the body shop a additional 1,200 because the other mechanic only put one A arm instead of 2 on the front along with new wheel hubs. This year I had the rear axle bearings go bad that set me back 1,200. Now add it all up. I could probably bought 3 of the same vehicle for that. Nothing but a money pit. Now my torque converter is slipping when you get it up to 65-70 Mph so Looks like that will cost me 3,400 to get it rebuilt Looks great drives great. I use it a lot and travel a lot it now has 165,000 on it. I take great care of it. Keep the oil changed and new tires on it. I will also need to probably get a new exhaust pipe and muffler put on it later. I also put a new stereo in it 300.00 the digital clock stopped working on the factory unit. I really don't like the newer Explorers not enough room in the cargo area and the floor pans are lower. My son bought a 2014 Durango which I don't mind the looks of them. Blazers are ugly I don't like square wheel wells. Bigger SUV's are all ugly they are all to square and they are gas hogs. Certain years of Ford escapes look good but not enough room in the cargo area. The 2002-2010 Explorer is just right for the right look and room which is easy to park and get out of tight situations but the upkeep sucks on them. Maybe I bought I lemon and got scammed from shitty use car lot. I know others that had better luck then I had.
My 2010 explorer looked good 70k miles when I bought it two years ago. After two years everything broke at once. Transmissions,key fobs, thermostat, week hub, starter, like it was built to literally crumble. Never again anything ford for me.
Damn I was just about to see about purchasing one. I don’t know now. This one I’m looking at it has 85,000 miles.
@@TheYellowBrickRoadTV word of advice if you go to buy older vehicles always go higher mileage, anything under 100k hasn't hit enough miles to start having issues yet, anything over has probably had issues and have been resolved, I never have problems with high mileage but I have had them with low
I have an 2008 and got code P0658 any ideas where to start
Also 3rd row seats the gears are plastic and don't last - fix is to replace the whole seat frame (yikes!)
Stereo display goes blank common to many Fords of that era, fix is to resolder inside the stereo (videos online).
Radiator is plastic and fails.
Some models coil fuses to spark plug.
Sway bar connectors simply fall off.
O/D button breaks.
Etc., etc. So much plastic these days nothing lasts.
video on how to remove the front differential on the 2005 ford explorer all wheel drive 4.0 xlt?
+Dennis Brown We do not have a video for this repair right now, but we'll keep this request in mind for a future video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I have the same car & i have a problem when im at a red light or slowing down my car decides to turn off. So when that happens check engine light comes on & the oil light come on. So when that happens i put the car in park turn off the car & then turn it back on & starts to go. Also it doesnt start acting like that right away.
hi, i have the exact same issue, did you manage to solve it? if not can anyone advise how to solve this issue?
Facing the same issue with my explorer 2009, if it's resolved please share your experience.
@@hassanelwazeer4226
I had same problem, I changed the fuel pump and insulated some of the damaged wires under the hood. Now working fine.
Having this issue on my 09, Firestone said it needs a new wiring harness. Hope this helps someone.
@@new_100miles which wires did you find damage on?
you have 3rd gen review?
What about the air suspension on the 2006 Explorer? This one isn't holding its height.
My mom has half a million miles in her Ford Explorer and we had a lot of issues 😂
amazing keep rocking 1a auto
great help. Your the best
Muy buenos videos amigo 👌👌 gracias por la info
Fuel pressure senor under thr intake (4.0)
Key wont come out of ignition because the gear shifter doesnt think it is park because the pin backed out for the microswitch
You left out the most important issue and thats the timing slides that are made to break.Can you tell me when this happens does it ruin the heads or valves?Thanks
Yes, if the timing chain snap you will bend valves. Trust me when they’re done that got a junkyard motor with 114,000 miles had shop put it in had the truck back for about three months I have putting about 2000 and 3000 miles on it since back now on passenger side. It has a slight ticking noise only when it’s warm going to change the oil and see if that solves the issue, I hope I didn’t waste $3700 to have the same problem reoccur if it still has the same problem I’m going to scrap it I advise you to do the same but cut your converters off before you fully scrap it I think they’re at least $500 a piece
I have a 2006 Ford Explorer and only when I started my car kind of rocks back and forth and that's it it doesn't do it anymore it's just when I started you have any idea what this might be
I need installation instructions to replace the shifter on a 2010 ford explorer Eddie Bauer.
Never had any problems like this with my 2009 explorer
+Isaac Smith Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com:
1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Maybe you have a V8.
Thats probably you didn't have the vehicle for long, hold on to it any longer and you'll find out and thats the truth.
Question I got a 2008 ford explorer looks just like that. Mine is stuck on hot air and they said I have to replace the whole unit
Probably a blend door actuator, or stuck blend door issue. I had that issue. Cost a bunch to fix. It's a difficult job to do even at the shop. I think it was like $400 or around there.
Problem Number six... I had spongy breaks at 100k i had Midas, replace the Power Booster/Master Cylinder, Both front brake Calipers, and hoses.. Still have spongy Breaks.. Any ideas here? TIA
This is a problem I have with my blend door.
otherwise is this 2008-2010 Sport trac 4x4 a solid vehicle ? Reliable ? I am considering one as a 2nd odd jobs off beat n path vehicles. finding them with 200k to over 300k kms from $6-$10k in Cda
Rsc light on alarm goes and comes is this a sensor issue on wheel hub
I've had to replace the thermostat housing on my 2006 Explorer about every 25,000 miles. I was charged $450 for the first two times it was replaced, by local "discount" car shops. After that,
I watched a vid on youtube, and I do it myself in 40 minutes, with just a few tools for under $100. The auto repair shop "book" says it's a two hour job. Ford should of made it out of metal.
Do you happen to know the link to that video?
No mention of the 4.6
We’re are the Vtc sensors located at
Third brake light on 07 sport trac doesn’t work. What fuse controls it. I have no power on the brake light
Awesome...great video
Thank you
Thanks
I keep getting a check engine light with the same code after numerous repairs (p0401) . Now when i turn on the car the radio wont turn on or front wipers. Then after a few minutes they work. Not sure whats the problem or what keeps causing the same code. Any advise please
Did u fix it?
I have problem about. The plug wire how to fix it v6 engine
2008 explorer 4.0 bought at 86k now at 90.5 k so far ive changed the thermostat and the water pump. right now its a rough idle some times mostly when first started up after it warms up its great and has bogged down and lost power on me 2 times in the past 9 months I've had it, code read that a fuel injector is clogged which is usual 100k mile maitnace. also a control module needs to be replaced so every once in a while after running 10 hours on the hiway it'll shift hard and up shift and then Ill pull over and stop and rest for 30 mins and it didn't do it again. i bought for 800$ from a old lady only 1 owner. so it was taken care of... except the minor t bone she got into so the back door has a good bent up section but still works and doesn't leak or anything gonna change that next. other than that I couldn't ask for a better car for the price I mean this thing is a little beast. makes me want to get a new explorer from how good this one treated me
1st and 2and gen Expedition please!
+HaloDaycare Daily BO4 Vids We're always cycling through common cars. We'll add this repair to our list! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
The intake gaskets on this 4.0 engine is not one piece as you show! It is six individual rubber washer types. This is a kind of hard job to replace them, but doable if you are devoted to getting into tight spaces and getting your hands cut up a little.
Can a 2000 Ford ranger rear end fit in a 2004 explorer
It'll fit if u try hard enuff.
How do I find an air leak in my 2010 ford explorer?