I had seen the full video but this is one of the best bonsai tutorial shorts I’ve ever seen. Everything you always wanted to know about ground layering described in seconds. Thanks Dave, keep growing
Thanks Matt, really appreciate your great feedback. I'll be doing a few more of these short version tutorials- not yet sure how they'll go down .... cheers, keep growing too!
Thanks! in this case I wasn't scared, because I had air layered this tree two years before and I knew how vigorous it is. Elms are perfect for this. I just knew it would give me plenty of roots... but I hadn't anticipated how good the radial root spread would be. But I wouldn't try this on an old or valuable bonsai "just in case" ...
@@hawkforce4295 yes elms are very resilient in general, I've done this on English elms, Chinese elms and on Zelkova which is technically not an elm but very similar.
Had never tried ground layering before. About a month ago, before viewing this video, I wanted to address the massive problems with a Sharps Pygmy Maple. Dave DeGroot was at the Bonsai Retreat I attended and said the only thing was to ground layer. Next spring I hope to find a whole bunch of new roots. Great short and informative video. You’ve done it again.
Thanks again Jeff! I'd love to meet Dave DeGroot someday - love the videos where he's talking and I've read his Design book again and again. Btw did you use rooting hormone in your ground layer? I've found it gives a better spread of new roots than without. I will be super interested to hear how your maple project goes - hope you get great new roots!
@@BlueSkyBonsai rooting hormone ✔️. All around ✔️. He talks and designs a tree several times a year at our local Bonsai Club meetings. On occasion, once in a great while, he shows up at one of our workshops. He was at our 1st annual Bonsai Artist Retreats. We have two or three of his young trees, one is - I think - 4 or 5 years old. We are fortunate to also have Dan Robinson talk and give design ideas for a myriad of trees on a couple of occasions a year. The Bonsai Society of Portland (Oregon, USA) has them and several other renowned Bonsai Artisans at their meetings. Dave is a hoot. Very knowledgeable, and talks plain and straight, sort of like you. 😊
Sounds like a lot of fun! it's nice to be considered like David DeGroot although of course he's in a different league having spent most of his life dedicated to bonsai. Would love to meet him someday.
My first Christmas after I graduated from college, my mother gave me the parts and tools for a pine bonzai. It was doing well until I wired it into three sections. The needles started falling off, so I took the whole set-up to a local (Berkeley) bonsai master. I will never forget standing in front of him holding out my tree, asking for help. A pine needle fell off as he's looking at it. He looked up at me and says, "Bonsai reflects the soul."
The bonsai master was probably good with trees, but evidently not good with people. You are brilliant, astonishing, extraordinary, don't ever forget it! What that "master" said was downright bullsh* - especially if you consider that most bonsai enthusiasts have many trees... what? does that mean we have multiple souls, one for each tree? No. A mature bonsai can get sold from grower to grower... so then, whose soul is reflected?? Everyone's? No. I invite you to completely ignore that "master", and confine his pathetic words to the trash can. Regarding pines, I also lost one last year - a Japanese black pine - it was just a sapling and I wired it too hard, I think I even ripped some of the roots. It took a few months to completely die... it was the 20th tree I have lost in the last 5 or 6 years. The fact is all bonsai growers lose trees, it's part of the game. I strongly encourage you to try again!! Try with a juniper, and an elm, and a ficus. These are much more resilient and easier to manage than a pine bonsai. Also, if you have multiple trees it's not such a big deal if one of them dies. At least your soul should not suffer anyway!
Welcome aboard! Here's three videos that will help you as you get started into this wonderful hobby. Pruning: th-cam.com/video/cOGAJ5iqWfk/w-d-xo.html Bonsai health: th-cam.com/video/a_vYCvQL5iE/w-d-xo.html Watering: th-cam.com/video/E2dBOrA7tOs/w-d-xo.html
I really like the video. The narration and video editing are great! The result is also fantastic! However, in the theoretical part, you mixed up a few things. "Ground Layering" usually refers to the method of anchoring a branch in the soil so that it forms new roots there. What you did is essentially an "Air Layering" of the trunk using the ring method. It is important to remove the phloem so that the tree cannot transport nutrients from the leaves to the roots and instead develops new roots at that spot. The cambium can form new phloem and therefore needs to be removed as well. However, the xylem should be preserved as much as possible. It ensures that the leaves continue to receive water from the roots. Additionally, it's important to keep in mind that with this method, the root is completely disconnected from the leaf's nutrient supply, which can lead to the death of unhealthy trees without reserves in the root system. Nevertheless, it's a great video that inspired me to try it out myself!❤
Thanks for your thoughtful comments and feedback! I did a long form video of this with a lot more details, of course in a short video of less than a minute I had to cut a lot. th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.html Regarding the naming, I made a careful decision to call this a ground layer as distinct from air layer because naturally this carries more risk than an air layer, since here we're doing it on the whole tree. Perhaps it should be given a whole new name, like "Trunk ring layer"? Or something similar. A few years ago I did several tests on various elms and olives and found that the most successful rooting came from removing the xylem too. I know it seems counterintuitive since the xylem transports the water and nutrients up from the soil. But some of the ones where I left the xylem grew substantial callus tissue and made a much weeker root spread. In the end, each person who try this will need to experiment on a cheap or "practice tree" to see what they're comfortable with. I certainly wouldn't do this on any of my more valuable trees. Thanks again for your helpful comments!
Thanks! Elms are very resilient, they can take a hammering and seem to survive whatever. Except drought! Watering is the one thing we must never neglect. If you're interested, I recommend you watch at least the first video in this playlist, it will help you to keep your container plants alive forever!! th-cam.com/play/PLYoSjHfqA6g-39CCEjtTIGIMQNnE-Kaku.html
Yes! But do it first on a tree that's not so valuable to you, because unlike an air layer, if this layer fails you risk losing the tree. Also, wait for spring (assuming you're in USA?)
I get that. In bonsai we need to think long term, like 5 to 10 years, and yet small in size. And sometimes that means doing something that appears drastic, but has beautiful long-term benefits. If you're interested, the full video of this work is here, I explain in a lot more detail why it was worthwhile doing this work on this elm: th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.html Would be interested in your opinion!
Great - thanks! One thing to consider... this technique is quite simple on elms and most deciduous species. I wouldn't risk it on a conferous bonsai "just in case"...
@BlueSkyBonsai Thanks very much for the info. I recent moved from the UK to Barbados so looking trying to create bonsai from local trees such as Tamarind, mahogany. I am a total novice so your videos are a huge help and inspiration
@@reggierwilson682 Barbados sounds great, I bet you will have excellent success with the local trees there. Whatever happens don't give up, all bonsai enthusiasts lose a few trees occasionally and you will learn by those and keep many more alive and healthy. Enjoy it!
Thanks! Be sure to try it on a tree that's not valuable to you, "just in case". Elms and olives respond well to this treatment but I wouldn't try it on a valuable pine for example.
I‘ve never used this technique to specifically make a ground layer, i just used it to get roots on a branch of a big tree to make a bonsai from it. If you‘re careful to not hurt the heartwood there‘s hardly a chance to kill the tree or branch in my case.
Dave I would definitely like to see more videos of yours my better half just drop one of my bonsai trees 35 40 years old and he broke it really really bad it's not a bonsai no more it makes me cry when I look at it😢
So sorry to hear about your bonsai. There is so much we can do to keep our trees alive and healthy but it's very difficult to protect them from human intervention. Is it still alive? You can always pot it in a bigger pot and pray!
Nice short, however I do not recommend the cut method for most popular conifers, especially big no no altogether with most white pines. With stronger conifers like Japanese black/red pine or juniper this can be done with tourniquet method, but expect it to take 3-5 years.
Totally agree - this is much safer with deciduous trees and some broadleafs like olive and ficus. I wouldn't risk this on a coniferous, I would tourniquet it like you said. Cheers!
Yes it's like an air layer, in some ways a ground layer is easier because the connection with the base soil means you don't have to seal the layer closed, it keeps it naturally damp with fresh water and doesn't risk root-rot within the layer. On the other hand it feels more risky because if the layer fails you could lose your tree...
In this video I showed how to take bonsai cuttings and grow them for free: th-cam.com/video/RnGfUeQC7r8/w-d-xo.html This shows really how easy it is to get roots from the stems. Then in this video I took one of those rooted cuttings and potted it into a dirt-cheap bonsai pot: th-cam.com/video/bI1DpIVo_lQ/w-d-xo.html I encourage you to try it! You've nothing to loose 🌳👍
Thanks! Trees that root easily like elms, olives have a much higher chance of surviving this. The key is the technique: make a clean cut, keep it moist, use rooting hormone and pack damp sphagnum moss on the whole ring. But I wouldn't do this on a valuable tree. More details in the full video: th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.html
You could have a first try on a small tree with not much value to you. If it dies, nothing lost. But if it survives then it will suddenly become very valuable to you.
Not all bonsai trees are so resilient! Some species are more robust than others. Elms like this one are very resilient. But the real key is to do it right - use a clean sharp knife, use rooting hormone and sphagnum moss, to keep the cut site moist for several months. This is to ensure the vascular pathways keep transporting the water and hormones up and down the tree while it creates new roots.
Did you consider moving the root base up the tree? Blue Sky Bonsai had a great video for scarification of the trunk and burying the tree in a deeper pot. Blue Sky Bonsai: "How and why to ground layer your #bonsai". You could do that even now or wait a year. Deep pot. Back of the garden for 2 years. Pull it out and work on the new root base. That solves the branch placement problem and the naked lower trunk. You don't love the tree and have ignored it anyway! What if that worked?
How do you keep the rest of the tree from dying at that time? Do you strip the foliage? Is the water supply cut off if you scrape away the cambium? I’m very intrigued.
Air layering is a well known technique for bonsai growers, and this ground layer is just an extreme version of the same. You need to wrap the cut tightly with damp sphagnum moss to keep the cut moist and free of infection. Full details in this longer video: th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.html The leaves are required, to keep photosynthesizing and sending down sugars and auxin needed to grow the new roots.
As far as I know if you also cut the xylem you will kill the tree, as it transports what the roots absorb, so it's the same as if you cut all the roots. Ground layers follow the same principle as air layers, where you let the water and nutrients flow upwards from the roots to feed the branches but not down,, that's why you cut the phloem but not the xylem,. Maybe there's something else going on here and I'm mistaken, but I don't think most trees can survive the lack of water for long enough to develop roots, at least without some really heavy pruning, and or defoliation, which I don't see in this video. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong
I had previously read what you say here - you need to strip off all the phloem and cambium and leave the xylem. But in some experiments a few years back I found that layers were more successful when you remove the xylem too. The issue is, if there is any cambium left on the surface of the xylem, the cambium creates scar tissue and tries to heal over the wound. So my experience is removing the xylem does not kill the tree, as long as you keep the damp sphagnum moss closely packed to the cut line. Also, my theory is the heartwood, (=dead xylem) is also staying wet from the soil and roots below, but I am yet to test that in a real layer.
Have a maple orange dream and I'm thinking of doing this cos the tree is twin trunk but the split of trunks is a bit further up than I would like, so this looks like an option... When would you undertake this task in the UK... Thank you
I would do it in early spring just after the new leaves have opened and started photosynthesising. Before you do it, my advice is don't do this if your tree is valuable to you, just in case. The ground layer should work fine on deciduous trees but if it doesn't work then you could lose the tree. Here is the detailed video I did on it: th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.html And if you really want a lot more details and decisions, here is a 90 minute film of the work on Patreon: www.patreon.com/checkout/blueskybonsai?redirect_uri=%2Fposts%2Fhow-to-do-ground-66327356
@@BlueSkyBonsai well the tree is just garden centre material which cost me 10quid I think so certainly not a valuable tree to lose if it went wrong, that said I've been working on it for 5 yrs or so and it's looking quite good so it's not something I want to lose but I just think it would look better if I could do the task that you've demonstrated in your fantastic video... I have also seen another vid of someone doin a tourniquet method just a piece of wire applied tightly around the trunk and buried beneath the soil surface.. Thank for your reply and info Dave👍
You already saw the nebari video. And here is the full version of the ground layer video: th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.html But I wouldn't do a ground layer umless your trunk base has terrible inverse taper. HTH
It just looks like the tree was planted deeper… I know I’m missing something but I can’t figure it out!! Will it eventually grow roots up out of the gravel that will look like the pics??
Yes, we're trying to achieve two things here - trunk flare at the base which makes a tree look older, and some attractive surface roots which also have the added benefit of accentuating the trunk flare. Btw I did a full long version of this video last year if you're interested: th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.html The surface roots can take several years to look mature, but we can give them a good start using this technique. This is how the trunk base looks now, it will take another 5 years before those surface roots start to look natural. flic.kr/p/2ovtqSD Btw, clearly a lot of bonsai trees don't need this technique because they already have a good enough trunk base.
Thanks! Sorry - I can't say whether it would work on most species. It has worked for me on deciduous trees: elms, oaks, hornbeam, maple, crab apple. It has worked on broadleaf evergreens: Ficus, olives, Sageretia. I have not tried it on coniferous species so I cannot say from personal experience whether it would work. Pines, apparently, can work but they take longer to root so you might need to wait over a year to get enough roots. I did a longer video with more details on this here: th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.html In any case, don't try this on a valuable bonsai because if it fails for some reason, you lose the tree. If possible, try it first on an elm or an olive, to practice the technique. Good luck!
I get that. Agreed, it was beautiful before. But in bonsai we need to think long term, like 5 to 10 years, and yet small in size. And that sometimes means doing something that appears drastic, but has beautiful long-term benefits. If you're interested, the full video of this work is here, I explain in a lot more detail why it was worthwhile doing this work on this elm: th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.html Would be interested in your opinion!
@BlueSkyBonsai I watched it. Great production value there. So what was the point of getting rid of the inverse V taper? The video didn't tell me why it was such a bad thing. To a layman like me, it just looked like you put a lot of effort into something that didn't matter beyond aesthetics.
@@tnk4me4 that is a great question and I appreciate your taking the time to ask it. I'll approach it in a couple of different ways: In traditional bonsai there are twenty or more well-defined styles and they are all based on the miniature representation of real, old, mature trees that can be found in nature. In all but one of these styles, the trunk must taper from thick at the base to thin and twiggy at the top and the extremities. Inverse taper is considered a defect because it conflicts with the style, and breaks the illusion of a genuinely old tree. (The ony exception is the "hokidachi", or broom style, where it's common to have the trunk thicken upwards as it meets many branches protruding from the same height.) But let's forget traditional Japanese teachings, and consider only what looks like a natural tree in a small pot. When you have multiple branches emerging from one height, the consequence is that a large lump will gradually form at that part of the trunk. And maybe that is the natural form in a small, juvenile tree in nature, but not a mature old tree. The visual attractiveness can be totally subjective, it could be argued that the bulge (and inverse taper) looks natural and beautiful, or that ugly features give character to a tree. Arguably true, but ultimately these trunk bulges keep the tree looking more like a juvenile twig or large seedling, rather than a believable old tree. And worse, the longer you leave it, the more pronounced it gets; if you remove one or two of the branches early on, they can heal over believably, but the longer you leave it, the bigger the chop scars will be, and more "manmade" the plant will appear. In summary, what might look more natural to you today in inverse taper and taller tree, will in the long-term future be the feature that prevents your bonsai from appearing as a believable tree in nature.
@@tnk4me4 I don't have any videos showing what beginners can expect to spend, but it's a great idea for a video -thanks! Ultimately it's like any hobby, you *can* get into it for almost free and then as you get drawn in you somehow get the urge to spend more and more, and can always find ways to justify it! In this video I showed how to take bonsai cuttings and grow them for free: th-cam.com/video/RnGfUeQC7r8/w-d-xo.html Then in this video I took one of those rooted cuttings and potted it into a dirt-cheap bonsai pot: th-cam.com/video/bI1DpIVo_lQ/w-d-xo.html So far, spent almost nothing. But then you see the "mother tree" - a nice Wild Olive. I got it for about €100 six years ago; I got the new pot for around €40 and after my work over the last few years it's probably worth over €200. I would only sell it if soneone is prepared to pay double that, because it means more to me emotionally than its financial value. In this video you can see bonsai trees that are worth more than 10,000 euros here in Spain... th-cam.com/video/-XGcV3uiZJ8/w-d-xo.html Did that answer your question?
Yes this can be done on a trident maple. It must be vigorous and healthy to start with. The layer packet / sphagnum must never get dry. Make sure to use a known rooting hormone like Clonex to ensure a good root spead. Use a clean sharp knife and cut a straight line - avoid jagged edges. Here's the full video of this elm project for more details: th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.html And here is a guy who did it on a trident maple: th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.html
Air layering technique is well addressed on TH-cam and horticultural resources. However, I’ve never seen this technique used to develop a different root/trunk base. Though the lack of videos on this technique does not prove the opposite (that this technique is not appropriate for development of a new root base) I can’t help thinking that air layering at the trunk base is somehow problematic. Any ideas?
Ground layering is a well-known technique in the bonsai world, atleast in Europe.. not sure about America. It can pose a risk to the tree if you get it wrong, like letting the sapwood dry before adding the sphagnum moss onto the layer. But some trees are much easier than others, like elms, and olives for example create new rootbase very easily. I wouldn't do it on a very valuable tree though.
In theory, yes, we leave the xylem layer so that it keeps transporting water up the tree. In practice, it's difficult to see where the cambium stops and the xylem starts. And the problem is, if you leave any cambium on there, the layer won't produce roots, the cambium will start to create callus tissue and try to heal over the wound. So I found that you can remove the xylem too because the heartwood keeps moist, and the damp sphagnum ensures that water is still supplied to the xylem above the layer. I did a more detailed video about it here: th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.html
I guess the key is to first try it on a young developing tree, or cheap Chinese Elm bonsai, so you're not risking a more valuable bonsai. Also you need to be sure the tree is in good health and growing vigorously before you start a ground layer.
@@joewatkins1667 also, I should have added this link to the full video with a lot more details about this technique in case you do want to try it sometime: th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.html
@@BlueSkyBonsaithanks, after watching this a second time it actually seems doable. I have a question if you have time. I have a 20-25 yr old japanese maple but all the leaves have falled off (likely because of me not watering enough or a mite infestation i had) i have sorted out the watering now but it has no leaves currently :/ will they grow back this summer?
Yeah, if the leaves fell off because of an insecticide, then yes they should all grow back within a few weeks. If it's because the tree got dry for a few days, then yes again it should start budding again with a few weeks. Keep it in mottled sunlight or 50% shade, so it gets enough light to activate new buds, but not too hot. Keep watering it whenever you see the soil surface start to dry. But... if it went for over 10 days or more without water, it might be a gonner. But even if that's the case, when I get near-dead trees I keep them on the bench and watered for another 6-8 months in case they finally bud out again. Sometimes they don't of course, but I have had a couple of trees "come back to life" after 6+ months of appearing dead. Good luck!
I've been trying this for the last 3 years with my Kei Apple bonsai, but it just keeps callusing over the area I removed. Today, I removed the callus again and went way deeper than what I've done the previous three times. Hopefully, when I open it, there are new roots🥺
Did you see the long version of this video? It has a lot more details. th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.html Also, be sure to use rooting hormone - clonex gel or powder or whatever you cn get your hands on... it does help produce roots.
@@BlueSkyBonsai Thank you for sharing the link of the full video. I think it's because I'm not using rooting hormone. I will go buy some tomorrow and apply it. Thank you for taking the time to reply.
Xylem consists of thousands of tiny tubes, which transport up water (and any molecules dissolved in the water). So when we cut the xylem with a sharp clean knife, as long as we don't let the tubes get dry or infected, they can continue transporting water upwards. For this purpose we pack on sphagnum moss and make sure it doesn't get dry for a few months. Sphagnum has antiseptic properties and holds about 20-times its own weight of water. So the xylem tubes continue to transport up the water from the sphagnum on the upper cut line. More details in the full video of this: th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.html
But regarding the position of the tree, take a look at these pictures of an air layer on this elm in a hedge behind a fence - 1. flic.kr/p/2ffv8cP 2. flic.kr/p/T7koiy 3. flic.kr/p/2g5JvGS Elm trees are very resilient and can take a full air layer on the trunk, as long as you do it in spring
Mid-spring! So, now is really your last chance, assuming you are in the northern hemisphere. If you do it in summer you risk the heat drying the leaves before it has a chance to grow new roots in the layer. Also, I wouldn't risk this on a valuable tree. Here is the more detailed version of this video: th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.html
@@BlueSkyBonsai I’m in north east PA. It’s around 70 degrees right now. I understand what you’re saying thank you. I wish there were nice Bonsai stores around. Closest one is around 1 1/2 to 2 hours away.
Do you think this technique would work with a Pseudobombax ellipticum? You can root its hardwood cuttings in moist sand so I think it would work just not with the akadama and moss. I only ask because don't want to cut mine back year after year to make the caudex fatter faster I want to have a 1/10 scale canopy tree and because of how fast it grows I'm worried it'll need a support pole if I don't do this.
@@BlueSkyBonsai I think I'll buy a few seedlings to test some of these techniques on, I don't want to accidentally kill my mine. Thank you for answering
Yes exactly right! If you're interested I did a full video of this work with more details here: th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=EF8CXB22DcE7tjyv
You need to put it where it will be absorbed. The best place is just around the upper cut line. Anything on the bark won't get absorbed. For info, I did this in a fuller video if you're interested: th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.html
Yes definitely, it's basically the ring-bark method with sphagnum to force new roots above the cut. Same as air layering. I would also say, I would not do this on any valuable bonsai "just in case", and I wouldn't risk it on a coniferous tree nor on any unhealthy or less vigorous tree. But elms can take it fine. Several other common species too, like olives, several tropicals, many fruiters like apple and pomegranate.
I recommend you start by watching the first few videos on this list, then you'll be in a good position to keep them alive and healthy! th-cam.com/play/PLYoSjHfqA6g-39CCEjtTIGIMQNnE-Kaku.html
Evergreen is too broad a category to give a general guideline. But the most common evergreens in bonsai can take an air layer or ground layer Ok. Tropical broadleaf evergreens like Ficus- no problem. Temperate broadleaf evergreens like Olive - no problem. Coniferous evergreens - some yes, some not so easy. Junipers are generally ok. Pines can take 2 years to root sufficiently. In any case, I wouldn't do this on a tree that's really valuable to me, "just in case". HTH.
I get that. In bonsai we sometimes need to something that appears drastic, but has beautiful long-term benefits. If you're interested, the full video of this work is here, I explain in a lot more detail why it was worthwhile doing this work on this elm: th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.html Would be interested in your opinion!
Thanks for sharing your thought. While I understand your request, my content is focused on bonsai, which is clear from my channel name. I'm glad you are part of my audience, and I hope you'll continue to enjoy the content I create.
Usually watching ppl hack bonsai trees doesn't make me wince. I'm sure you know what you are doing and the information seems good. But that is scarry to watch. Looks more like carving than cultivating.
Thanks for your comment! I would be interested to hear your opinion on the full video of this work, I tried to approach the project more sensitively. Maybe it's my editing in this YT Short that makes it look ruthless, but in the long version (it's
In a way, yes. We're forcing it to grow new roots. But the old roots below continue to grow, and they try to push up new shoots elsewhere in the soil. Did you see the full video of this work? It has a lot more details and you can see how the old roots stayed alive... until I chopped them off: th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.html It's not that risky for an elm, as long as the layer package stays moist all summer. I wouldn't risk it for a coniferous tree though.
Good question. The heartwood still holds a lot of water and via simple capillary action it brings up water from the old roots. You can see that there is a lot of foliage on this tree and all those leaves transpire water into the air, in exchange for carbon dioxide. While the water is delivered up to the leaves via the xylem tubes, these are in close contact with the heartwood. If you cut off the old roots at the start of the process, the stump might try to heal over and stop sucking in water from below. I wouldn't risk it, but if I did try it as an experiment I would cover the entire foliage mass with a clear plastic bag to keep humidity at 100% inside, to almost completely stop the transpiration from drying the leaves with less water available in the heartwood. This works for small cuttings, but like I said I wouldn't risk it for an entire tree.
Thanks for your comment! Done at the right time of year, in mid-spring, it's pretty safe for a many species, I have had success with various different elms, olives, pomegranates, 'indoor' ficus, and sageretias. True that if you have a valuable or well-established bonsai, you wouldn't want to risk ground layering, it's much more appropriate for developing trees.
Maybe also the key is to use rooting hormone, I know some people try it without the hormone.. I definitely observe a good root growth and spread with rooting hormone. Similarly, cuttings are demonstrably less likely to strike roots when I haven't added hormone.
I was thinking the same thing without the numbers, would it be less likely to root if only partially girdled? I'm guessing letting it ever get even close to dry is certain to cause failure.
@@michaeljarvis5489 partial girdling doesn't work because the remaining cambium creates a load of callusing tissue and tries to cover the wound with callus, instead of creating new roots. You need to confidently girdle all the way round and remove a complete ring of cambium. Cut in with a clean sharp knife and make it a straight line around the trunk. The water from the soil and lower roots can still go up through the heartwood and any remaining sapwood. Rooting hormone improves the new root spread. The packed-in damp sphagnum moss ensures that the cut line doesn't dry up. If the upper cut line dries then yes your tree might die. I wouldn't want to risk it on an old valuable bonsai... but try it on a cheap elm so you can see it works! If you do, I recommend you first watch the full length video of this because I put a lot more details in that: th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.html
@@michaeljarvis5489 also there is another technique that is much less risky but takes several years. You can tie a tourniquet (use thick wire, touching the trunk firmly, but not so tight that it stops sap flow) several loops around just below where you want the new root plane. Then bury it much deeper in a large, deep pot so the area you're trying to develop is buried for a few years. As the whole trunk grows thicker it will start to send out new roots above your tourniquet, while it can't thicken the trunk at the position of your tourniquet. The risk is if it starts to callus over your tourniquet- and if the callus joins then it fails and you don't get a good new root spread. That's why you need thick wire and a few loops.
It is stunningly beautiful, I agree. This just made me uncomfortable, somehow. Doesn't feel right. I wanted to start learning the art, but now I'm considering. I fully realize I may have gone mad lol! And I truly mean no offense. I appreciate the informative and very well-made video nonetheless!
@@abbypitts3857 this short video showed an advanced technique and I wouldn't risk it on a more valuable or refined bonsai. It's true that the ground layer technique appears harsh. But if you consider a traditional Japanese view of bonsai as being the art of representing a tree's struggle to grow and reproduce balanced against the harsh elements of nature. In the wild, many trees suffer a lot worse than we inflict on them, with our daily-watering routines, good soil and healthy roots. In the spirit of beautiful bonsai, if you have some spare time I hope you enjoy this video about why we prune bonsai trees: th-cam.com/video/cOGAJ5iqWfk/w-d-xo.html Or this one about how to revive a bonsai: th-cam.com/video/F7o8z5eT_Uw/w-d-xo.html Or this video of how to make a bonsai tree's apex look more mature and refined: th-cam.com/video/-XGcV3uiZJ8/w-d-xo.html And I have to tell you, I did the harsh ground layer last year... now here is a photo of how the elm bonsai looks this year - very healthy and happy: flic.kr/p/2ovvwEa flic.kr/p/2ovvwER I hope this helps you decide to go ahead with this beautiful hobby!
Man...bonsai feels like plant torture. You know they can "see" and sense their environment. Not sure if they have a pain response. Havent looked into where the research has gotten to now but... either way this just feels wrong. Puttinf your tree in bondage. Cute ing off limbs and roots on the regular. Just brutalizing your plants man. I guess they look cute. In a veal sort of way.
Trees don't feel pain because they don't have nerves or brains. Also, this small elm shoot was salvaged from a hedge, where it would have been killed by a gardener - so in this way the tree is enjoying a healthy life of watering and feeding - much better than dead! Have a look into the research, you'll see that bonsai trees enjoy a life of luxury compared to the harsh conditions of nature in the wild.
@@BlueSkyBonsai what I stated wasn't conjecture or tree hugging nonsense. "Trees can also taste, touch, smell, hear and feel. And they exhibit these characteristics just the way animals do" Just search trees are sentient and it will be your first result...again I do not know if we have found anything that acts like a endorphins. But who knows in a couple years.
![[UNCUT] รัฐสั่งหยุดปล่อยคลื่น! แต่หยุดพลังปะทุ “น้องหญิง” ไม่ได้ I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RmQh47eIiV0/mqdefault.jpg)
I had seen the full video but this is one of the best bonsai tutorial shorts I’ve ever seen. Everything you always wanted to know about ground layering described in seconds. Thanks Dave, keep growing
Thanks Matt, really appreciate your great feedback. I'll be doing a few more of these short version tutorials- not yet sure how they'll go down .... cheers, keep growing too!
Hey Matt !😊
@@bonsaihigh ✌🏻
I am absolutely impressed but I’d be scared to do something like that to mine if mine ever got that big! It looks amazing though!
Thanks! in this case I wasn't scared, because I had air layered this tree two years before and I knew how vigorous it is. Elms are perfect for this. I just knew it would give me plenty of roots... but I hadn't anticipated how good the radial root spread would be.
But I wouldn't try this on an old or valuable bonsai "just in case" ...
@@BlueSkyBonsai appreciate it, it looks great though!
Elm? Ok, thanks. Yeah my elm is vigorous. It grows new ones just from the roots!
@@hawkforce4295 yes elms are very resilient in general, I've done this on English elms, Chinese elms and on Zelkova which is technically not an elm but very similar.
Bonsai is all about being fearless 😊
The sound effect are hilarious. Quick and informative, love it :)
Haha yes I have to apologise for adding those sounds 😊 but glad you liked it!
@@BlueSkyBonsai Don't, it made it perfect, haha!
Had never tried ground layering before. About a month ago, before viewing this video, I wanted to address the massive problems with a Sharps Pygmy Maple. Dave DeGroot was at the Bonsai Retreat I attended and said the only thing was to ground layer. Next spring I hope to find a whole bunch of new roots. Great short and informative video. You’ve done it again.
Thanks again Jeff! I'd love to meet Dave DeGroot someday - love the videos where he's talking and I've read his Design book again and again. Btw did you use rooting hormone in your ground layer? I've found it gives a better spread of new roots than without. I will be super interested to hear how your maple project goes - hope you get great new roots!
@@BlueSkyBonsai rooting hormone ✔️. All around ✔️. He talks and designs a tree several times a year at our local Bonsai Club meetings. On occasion, once in a great while, he shows up at one of our workshops. He was at our 1st annual Bonsai Artist Retreats. We have two or three of his young trees, one is - I think - 4 or 5 years old. We are fortunate to also have Dan Robinson talk and give design ideas for a myriad of trees on a couple of occasions a year. The Bonsai Society of Portland (Oregon, USA) has them and several other renowned Bonsai Artisans at their meetings. Dave is a hoot. Very knowledgeable, and talks plain and straight, sort of like you. 😊
Sounds like a lot of fun! it's nice to be considered like David DeGroot although of course he's in a different league having spent most of his life dedicated to bonsai. Would love to meet him someday.
This deserves millions like. Great presentation!
Thanks a million!
interesting.. i do a bunch of air layering to collect new fruit trees, never thought of using it for this reason..
My first Christmas after I graduated from college, my mother gave me the parts and tools for a pine bonzai. It was doing well until I wired it into three sections.
The needles started falling off, so I took the whole set-up to a local (Berkeley) bonsai master.
I will never forget standing in front of him holding out my tree, asking for help. A pine needle fell off as he's looking at it.
He looked up at me and says, "Bonsai reflects the soul."
The bonsai master was probably good with trees, but evidently not good with people.
You are brilliant, astonishing, extraordinary, don't ever forget it!
What that "master" said was downright bullsh* - especially if you consider that most bonsai enthusiasts have many trees... what? does that mean we have multiple souls, one for each tree? No.
A mature bonsai can get sold from grower to grower... so then, whose soul is reflected?? Everyone's? No.
I invite you to completely ignore that "master", and confine his pathetic words to the trash can.
Regarding pines, I also lost one last year - a Japanese black pine - it was just a sapling and I wired it too hard, I think I even ripped some of the roots. It took a few months to completely die... it was the 20th tree I have lost in the last 5 or 6 years. The fact is all bonsai growers lose trees, it's part of the game.
I strongly encourage you to try again!! Try with a juniper, and an elm, and a ficus. These are much more resilient and easier to manage than a pine bonsai.
Also, if you have multiple trees it's not such a big deal if one of them dies. At least your soul should not suffer anyway!
Christ, that would stick with me too
This is the best tutorial short I’ve ever seen. Thank you for the excellent creativity
Thanks so much!
By the way did you see the longer version of this with more details? Hopefully you'll like that too: th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.html
@@BlueSkyBonsai no I will watch now
Amazing technique I will have to try this! Thank you
Thanks! Did you see the longer version of this video with more details? th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.html
I'm starting to do bonsais and I only accidentally came across this short. Definitely will keep this channel in mind after a few seasons of growth
Welcome aboard! Here's three videos that will help you as you get started into this wonderful hobby.
Pruning:
th-cam.com/video/cOGAJ5iqWfk/w-d-xo.html
Bonsai health:
th-cam.com/video/a_vYCvQL5iE/w-d-xo.html
Watering:
th-cam.com/video/E2dBOrA7tOs/w-d-xo.html
I really like the video. The narration and video editing are great! The result is also fantastic! However, in the theoretical part, you mixed up a few things. "Ground Layering" usually refers to the method of anchoring a branch in the soil so that it forms new roots there. What you did is essentially an "Air Layering" of the trunk using the ring method. It is important to remove the phloem so that the tree cannot transport nutrients from the leaves to the roots and instead develops new roots at that spot. The cambium can form new phloem and therefore needs to be removed as well. However, the xylem should be preserved as much as possible. It ensures that the leaves continue to receive water from the roots. Additionally, it's important to keep in mind that with this method, the root is completely disconnected from the leaf's nutrient supply, which can lead to the death of unhealthy trees without reserves in the root system.
Nevertheless, it's a great video that inspired me to try it out myself!❤
Thanks for your thoughtful comments and feedback! I did a long form video of this with a lot more details, of course in a short video of less than a minute I had to cut a lot. th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.html
Regarding the naming, I made a careful decision to call this a ground layer as distinct from air layer because naturally this carries more risk than an air layer, since here we're doing it on the whole tree. Perhaps it should be given a whole new name, like "Trunk ring layer"? Or something similar.
A few years ago I did several tests on various elms and olives and found that the most successful rooting came from removing the xylem too. I know it seems counterintuitive since the xylem transports the water and nutrients up from the soil. But some of the ones where I left the xylem grew substantial callus tissue and made a much weeker root spread. In the end, each person who try this will need to experiment on a cheap or "practice tree" to see what they're comfortable with. I certainly wouldn't do this on any of my more valuable trees. Thanks again for your helpful comments!
Love it! ground layer 😍
Thanks!
that's magical. I'm astounded that it not only survived but looks great as well. Meanwhile, I can't even get a spider plant to stay alive.
Thanks! Elms are very resilient, they can take a hammering and seem to survive whatever. Except drought! Watering is the one thing we must never neglect. If you're interested, I recommend you watch at least the first video in this playlist, it will help you to keep your container plants alive forever!! th-cam.com/play/PLYoSjHfqA6g-39CCEjtTIGIMQNnE-Kaku.html
Try snake plant they never die if you just don't give it water when they are in the dark
Seems like a bit of a risky operation, but it was well worth it by the looks of it
Elms are very resilient, I wasn't really worried about this tree. Bit if it were a coniferous tree I wouldn't have risked doing this technique!
Gorgeous
Great video Dave.
Thanks Jason!
This comment is to help algorithm because i liked the video 😊
Thanks and thanks again! 😊
Wow nice tip❤
I need to try this!
Yes! But do it first on a tree that's not so valuable to you, because unlike an air layer, if this layer fails you risk losing the tree. Also, wait for spring (assuming you're in USA?)
Great tutorial thank you..
This is the content i needed! Terrific idea!
Thanks! Did you see the longer version of this video? It's here: th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=p-xWFjXRSUjVj1Mm
bonsai is like anti gardening. Its amazing any of this actually survives.
I get that.
In bonsai we need to think long term, like 5 to 10 years, and yet small in size. And sometimes that means doing something that appears drastic, but has beautiful long-term benefits.
If you're interested, the full video of this work is here, I explain in a lot more detail why it was worthwhile doing this work on this elm: th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.html
Would be interested in your opinion!
Fantastic video. One of few which show the completed project
Thanks so much! Did you see the full video of this project? It has a lot more details: th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.html
@@BlueSkyBonsai I hadn't but thanks for the link. going to take a look and subscribe.
Great - thanks! One thing to consider... this technique is quite simple on elms and most deciduous species. I wouldn't risk it on a conferous bonsai "just in case"...
@BlueSkyBonsai Thanks very much for the info. I recent moved from the UK to Barbados so looking trying to create bonsai from local trees such as Tamarind, mahogany. I am a total novice so your videos are a huge help and inspiration
@@reggierwilson682 Barbados sounds great, I bet you will have excellent success with the local trees there. Whatever happens don't give up, all bonsai enthusiasts lose a few trees occasionally and you will learn by those and keep many more alive and healthy. Enjoy it!
Oh.. It's nice explain 🤩😍
Oh boy the confidences and skill
Hehehe glad you liked it!
I love this... great idea!
Thanks! Be sure to try it on a tree that's not valuable to you, "just in case". Elms and olives respond well to this treatment but I wouldn't try it on a valuable pine for example.
I‘ve never used this technique to specifically make a ground layer, i just used it to get roots on a branch of a big tree to make a bonsai from it. If you‘re careful to not hurt the heartwood there‘s hardly a chance to kill the tree or branch in my case.
Yes, I did a much more detailed video on this, if you're interested: th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.html
That a great technique!
Thanks, yes it works really well if you do it right!
Dave I would definitely like to see more videos of yours my better half just drop one of my bonsai trees 35 40 years old and he broke it really really bad it's not a bonsai no more it makes me cry when I look at it😢
So sorry to hear about your bonsai. There is so much we can do to keep our trees alive and healthy but it's very difficult to protect them from human intervention. Is it still alive? You can always pot it in a bigger pot and pray!
Very well explained!! 👌🏼👌🏼
Thanks 😊👍
Nice short, however I do not recommend the cut method for most popular conifers, especially big no no altogether with most white pines. With stronger conifers like Japanese black/red pine or juniper this can be done with tourniquet method, but expect it to take 3-5 years.
Totally agree - this is much safer with deciduous trees and some broadleafs like olive and ficus.
I wouldn't risk this on a coniferous, I would tourniquet it like you said. Cheers!
So cool!!!
Awesome idea 💡👍
Thanks! Did you see the longer version of this video with more details? th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.html
Nice, easy vid! Basically air layering, but lower. 🙏
Yes it's like an air layer, in some ways a ground layer is easier because the connection with the base soil means you don't have to seal the layer closed, it keeps it naturally damp with fresh water and doesn't risk root-rot within the layer. On the other hand it feels more risky because if the layer fails you could lose your tree...
I never new a plant could grow roots from the steams. I also wanted to make bonsai plants but i thought they will take too long and never got to try.
In this video I showed how to take bonsai cuttings and grow them for free: th-cam.com/video/RnGfUeQC7r8/w-d-xo.html
This shows really how easy it is to get roots from the stems.
Then in this video I took one of those rooted cuttings and potted it into a dirt-cheap bonsai pot:
th-cam.com/video/bI1DpIVo_lQ/w-d-xo.html
I encourage you to try it! You've nothing to loose 🌳👍
oh wow that's amazing
Thank you! Do you think you might try a ground layer? If so, I have a longer video of the process on my channel 😊
@@BlueSkyBonsai I will check that out, thanks!
Great video. How likely is the tree to survive this? Highly, not too bad, meh what have you got to lose, or best of luck to you?
Thanks!
Trees that root easily like elms, olives have a much higher chance of surviving this. The key is the technique: make a clean cut, keep it moist, use rooting hormone and pack damp sphagnum moss on the whole ring.
But I wouldn't do this on a valuable tree.
More details in the full video: th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.html
I am not anyplace close to that level of confidence.
You could have a first try on a small tree with not much value to you. If it dies, nothing lost. But if it survives then it will suddenly become very valuable to you.
Lovely
That is insane I grow plants and do different techniques but that’s so cool how bonsai trees can handle soo much damage
Not all bonsai trees are so resilient! Some species are more robust than others. Elms like this one are very resilient.
But the real key is to do it right - use a clean sharp knife, use rooting hormone and sphagnum moss, to keep the cut site moist for several months. This is to ensure the vascular pathways keep transporting the water and hormones up and down the tree while it creates new roots.
Did you consider moving the root base up the tree? Blue Sky Bonsai had a great video for scarification of the trunk and burying the tree in a deeper pot. Blue Sky Bonsai: "How and why to ground layer your #bonsai". You could do that even now or wait a year. Deep pot. Back of the garden for 2 years. Pull it out and work on the new root base. That solves the branch placement problem and the naked lower trunk. You don't love the tree and have ignored it anyway! What if that worked?
This is tree torture made into fine art
How do you keep the rest of the tree from dying at that time? Do you strip the foliage? Is the water supply cut off if you scrape away the cambium? I’m very intrigued.
Air layering is a well known technique for bonsai growers, and this ground layer is just an extreme version of the same. You need to wrap the cut tightly with damp sphagnum moss to keep the cut moist and free of infection. Full details in this longer video: th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.html
The leaves are required, to keep photosynthesizing and sending down sugars and auxin needed to grow the new roots.
nice work ❤🌳
Thanks bro!
@@BlueSkyBonsai your most welcome dear brother ❤🌳
As far as I know if you also cut the xylem you will kill the tree, as it transports what the roots absorb, so it's the same as if you cut all the roots. Ground layers follow the same principle as air layers, where you let the water and nutrients flow upwards from the roots to feed the branches but not down,, that's why you cut the phloem but not the xylem,. Maybe there's something else going on here and I'm mistaken, but I don't think most trees can survive the lack of water for long enough to develop roots, at least without some really heavy pruning, and or defoliation, which I don't see in this video. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong
I had previously read what you say here - you need to strip off all the phloem and cambium and leave the xylem.
But in some experiments a few years back I found that layers were more successful when you remove the xylem too. The issue is, if there is any cambium left on the surface of the xylem, the cambium creates scar tissue and tries to heal over the wound.
So my experience is removing the xylem does not kill the tree, as long as you keep the damp sphagnum moss closely packed to the cut line. Also, my theory is the heartwood, (=dead xylem) is also staying wet from the soil and roots below, but I am yet to test that in a real layer.
I would be so afraid of achieving such a feat, but hey, since we must dare in life xD
Don't do it on a valuable or old tree. But on a youngish elm, it works quite easily :)
Have a maple orange dream and I'm thinking of doing this cos the tree is twin trunk but the split of trunks is a bit further up than I would like, so this looks like an option... When would you undertake this task in the UK... Thank you
I would do it in early spring just after the new leaves have opened and started photosynthesising. Before you do it, my advice is don't do this if your tree is valuable to you, just in case. The ground layer should work fine on deciduous trees but if it doesn't work then you could lose the tree. Here is the detailed video I did on it: th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.html
And if you really want a lot more details and decisions, here is a 90 minute film of the work on Patreon: www.patreon.com/checkout/blueskybonsai?redirect_uri=%2Fposts%2Fhow-to-do-ground-66327356
@@BlueSkyBonsai well the tree is just garden centre material which cost me 10quid I think so certainly not a valuable tree to lose if it went wrong, that said I've been working on it for 5 yrs or so and it's looking quite good so it's not something I want to lose but I just think it would look better if I could do the task that you've demonstrated in your fantastic video... I have also seen another vid of someone doin a tourniquet method just a piece of wire applied tightly around the trunk and buried beneath the soil surface..
Thank for your reply and info Dave👍
I want to get nerobi or Surface roots on my ficus bonsai. Please suggest me a best video
You already saw the nebari video.
And here is the full version of the ground layer video: th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.html
But I wouldn't do a ground layer umless your trunk base has terrible inverse taper. HTH
It just looks like the tree was planted deeper… I know I’m missing something but I can’t figure it out!! Will it eventually grow roots up out of the gravel that will look like the pics??
Yes, we're trying to achieve two things here - trunk flare at the base which makes a tree look older, and some attractive surface roots which also have the added benefit of accentuating the trunk flare. Btw I did a full long version of this video last year if you're interested: th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.html
The surface roots can take several years to look mature, but we can give them a good start using this technique. This is how the trunk base looks now, it will take another 5 years before those surface roots start to look natural. flic.kr/p/2ovtqSD
Btw, clearly a lot of bonsai trees don't need this technique because they already have a good enough trunk base.
Great video! Would this work on most species?
Thanks!
Sorry - I can't say whether it would work on most species. It has worked for me on deciduous trees: elms, oaks, hornbeam, maple, crab apple. It has worked on broadleaf evergreens: Ficus, olives, Sageretia. I have not tried it on coniferous species so I cannot say from personal experience whether it would work. Pines, apparently, can work but they take longer to root so you might need to wait over a year to get enough roots.
I did a longer video with more details on this here: th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.html
In any case, don't try this on a valuable bonsai because if it fails for some reason, you lose the tree. If possible, try it first on an elm or an olive, to practice the technique. Good luck!
@@BlueSkyBonsai Awesome! Thanks for taking the time with that detailed answer.
🤜🌳🤛
I'm not into bonsai culture/ cultivating so the original version of the tree looks better and more beautiful to me
I get that. Agreed, it was beautiful before. But in bonsai we need to think long term, like 5 to 10 years, and yet small in size. And that sometimes means doing something that appears drastic, but has beautiful long-term benefits.
If you're interested, the full video of this work is here, I explain in a lot more detail why it was worthwhile doing this work on this elm: th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.html
Would be interested in your opinion!
@BlueSkyBonsai I watched it. Great production value there. So what was the point of getting rid of the inverse V taper? The video didn't tell me why it was such a bad thing. To a layman like me, it just looked like you put a lot of effort into something that didn't matter beyond aesthetics.
@@tnk4me4 that is a great question and I appreciate your taking the time to ask it. I'll approach it in a couple of different ways:
In traditional bonsai there are twenty or more well-defined styles and they are all based on the miniature representation of real, old, mature trees that can be found in nature. In all but one of these styles, the trunk must taper from thick at the base to thin and twiggy at the top and the extremities. Inverse taper is considered a defect because it conflicts with the style, and breaks the illusion of a genuinely old tree. (The ony exception is the "hokidachi", or broom style, where it's common to have the trunk thicken upwards as it meets many branches protruding from the same height.)
But let's forget traditional Japanese teachings, and consider only what looks like a natural tree in a small pot. When you have multiple branches emerging from one height, the consequence is that a large lump will gradually form at that part of the trunk. And maybe that is the natural form in a small, juvenile tree in nature, but not a mature old tree.
The visual attractiveness can be totally subjective, it could be argued that the bulge (and inverse taper) looks natural and beautiful, or that ugly features give character to a tree. Arguably true, but ultimately these trunk bulges keep the tree looking more like a juvenile twig or large seedling, rather than a believable old tree. And worse, the longer you leave it, the more pronounced it gets; if you remove one or two of the branches early on, they can heal over believably, but the longer you leave it, the bigger the chop scars will be, and more "manmade" the plant will appear.
In summary, what might look more natural to you today in inverse taper and taller tree, will in the long-term future be the feature that prevents your bonsai from appearing as a believable tree in nature.
@@BlueSkyBonsai Cool. So how expensive is it to get into bonsai growing as a hobby? Do you have any videos for beginners about what to expect?
@@tnk4me4 I don't have any videos showing what beginners can expect to spend, but it's a great idea for a video -thanks!
Ultimately it's like any hobby, you *can* get into it for almost free and then as you get drawn in you somehow get the urge to spend more and more, and can always find ways to justify it!
In this video I showed how to take bonsai cuttings and grow them for free: th-cam.com/video/RnGfUeQC7r8/w-d-xo.html
Then in this video I took one of those rooted cuttings and potted it into a dirt-cheap bonsai pot:
th-cam.com/video/bI1DpIVo_lQ/w-d-xo.html
So far, spent almost nothing. But then you see the "mother tree" - a nice Wild Olive. I got it for about €100 six years ago; I got the new pot for around €40 and after my work over the last few years it's probably worth over €200. I would only sell it if soneone is prepared to pay double that, because it means more to me emotionally than its financial value.
In this video you can see bonsai trees that are worth more than 10,000 euros here in Spain...
th-cam.com/video/-XGcV3uiZJ8/w-d-xo.html
Did that answer your question?
Can you do this on Trident Maples? Pre-bonsai material about 3-5 years old
Yes this can be done on a trident maple. It must be vigorous and healthy to start with. The layer packet / sphagnum must never get dry. Make sure to use a known rooting hormone like Clonex to ensure a good root spead. Use a clean sharp knife and cut a straight line - avoid jagged edges. Here's the full video of this elm project for more details: th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.html
And here is a guy who did it on a trident maple: th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.html
@@BlueSkyBonsai you da best thanks for the info
Air layering technique is well addressed on TH-cam and horticultural resources. However, I’ve never seen this technique used to develop a different root/trunk base. Though the lack of videos on this technique does not prove the opposite (that this technique is not appropriate for development of a new root base) I can’t help thinking that air layering at the trunk base is somehow problematic. Any ideas?
Ground layering is a well-known technique in the bonsai world, atleast in Europe.. not sure about America.
It can pose a risk to the tree if you get it wrong, like letting the sapwood dry before adding the sphagnum moss onto the layer. But some trees are much easier than others, like elms, and olives for example create new rootbase very easily. I wouldn't do it on a very valuable tree though.
What kind/type of tree is this?
It's an English elm - ulmus minor.
I looked away when this video started and immediately snapped my head to look
Was the end result worthwhile in your opinion??
I thought you only ever go to the cambium layer - similar to air layering?
In theory, yes, we leave the xylem layer so that it keeps transporting water up the tree.
In practice, it's difficult to see where the cambium stops and the xylem starts. And the problem is, if you leave any cambium on there, the layer won't produce roots, the cambium will start to create callus tissue and try to heal over the wound.
So I found that you can remove the xylem too because the heartwood keeps moist, and the damp sphagnum ensures that water is still supplied to the xylem above the layer. I did a more detailed video about it here: th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.html
Oh wow, I'd be so scared to do this
I guess the key is to first try it on a young developing tree, or cheap Chinese Elm bonsai, so you're not risking a more valuable bonsai. Also you need to be sure the tree is in good health and growing vigorously before you start a ground layer.
@BlueSkyBonsai okay sure, maybe I will gove it a go at some point
@@joewatkins1667 also, I should have added this link to the full video with a lot more details about this technique in case you do want to try it sometime: th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.html
@@BlueSkyBonsaithanks, after watching this a second time it actually seems doable. I have a question if you have time.
I have a 20-25 yr old japanese maple but all the leaves have falled off (likely because of me not watering enough or a mite infestation i had) i have sorted out the watering now but it has no leaves currently :/ will they grow back this summer?
Yeah, if the leaves fell off because of an insecticide, then yes they should all grow back within a few weeks. If it's because the tree got dry for a few days, then yes again it should start budding again with a few weeks. Keep it in mottled sunlight or 50% shade, so it gets enough light to activate new buds, but not too hot. Keep watering it whenever you see the soil surface start to dry.
But... if it went for over 10 days or more without water, it might be a gonner. But even if that's the case, when I get near-dead trees I keep them on the bench and watered for another 6-8 months in case they finally bud out again. Sometimes they don't of course, but I have had a couple of trees "come back to life" after 6+ months of appearing dead. Good luck!
I've been trying this for the last 3 years with my Kei Apple bonsai, but it just keeps callusing over the area I removed. Today, I removed the callus again and went way deeper than what I've done the previous three times. Hopefully, when I open it, there are new roots🥺
Did you see the long version of this video? It has a lot more details. th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.html
Also, be sure to use rooting hormone - clonex gel or powder or whatever you cn get your hands on... it does help produce roots.
@@BlueSkyBonsai Thank you for sharing the link of the full video. I think it's because I'm not using rooting hormone. I will go buy some tomorrow and apply it. Thank you for taking the time to reply.
With the counterfit rooting hormones sold where I'm from, that tree is gonna have a tough time.😂
How does it survive without the xylem?
Xylem consists of thousands of tiny tubes, which transport up water (and any molecules dissolved in the water).
So when we cut the xylem with a sharp clean knife, as long as we don't let the tubes get dry or infected, they can continue transporting water upwards. For this purpose we pack on sphagnum moss and make sure it doesn't get dry for a few months. Sphagnum has antiseptic properties and holds about 20-times its own weight of water. So the xylem tubes continue to transport up the water from the sphagnum on the upper cut line. More details in the full video of this: th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.html
❤😊
How can that be done on an established avocado tree next to the building?
I haven't got experience with avocado trees so I can't advise you on air layering that type of tree.
But regarding the position of the tree, take a look at these pictures of an air layer on this elm in a hedge behind a fence -
1. flic.kr/p/2ffv8cP
2. flic.kr/p/T7koiy
3. flic.kr/p/2g5JvGS
Elm trees are very resilient and can take a full air layer on the trunk, as long as you do it in spring
@@BlueSkyBonsai wow very detailed, may God bless you a lot!
Is there a particular time to do this?
Mid-spring! So, now is really your last chance, assuming you are in the northern hemisphere.
If you do it in summer you risk the heat drying the leaves before it has a chance to grow new roots in the layer.
Also, I wouldn't risk this on a valuable tree. Here is the more detailed version of this video: th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.html
@@BlueSkyBonsai
I’m in north east PA. It’s around 70 degrees right now. I understand what you’re saying thank you. I wish there were nice Bonsai stores around. Closest one is around 1 1/2 to 2 hours away.
Do you think this technique would work with a Pseudobombax ellipticum? You can root its hardwood cuttings in moist sand so I think it would work just not with the akadama and moss. I only ask because don't want to cut mine back year after year to make the caudex fatter faster I want to have a 1/10 scale canopy tree and because of how fast it grows I'm worried it'll need a support pole if I don't do this.
Sorry I have no experience of pseudobombax, I can't advise you.
@@BlueSkyBonsai I think I'll buy a few seedlings to test some of these techniques on, I don't want to accidentally kill my mine. Thank you for answering
@@wafflemaster59 now that is the best plan from all angles! You'll learn a lot about the species, and have fun along the way!
This tree looks like it had bad natural taper and you fixed it with the ground layering
Yes exactly right! If you're interested I did a full video of this work with more details here: th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=EF8CXB22DcE7tjyv
wonderful❤❤❤❤❤
#경남스마일분재경매장 #koreabonsai #bonsai_auction #분재
youtube.com/@Gyeongnam_Smile_Bonsai?si=Ev0_gGxPWXg_n4Li
Shouldn't you put rooting hormone above the cut since that's where the roots grow out of?
You need to put it where it will be absorbed. The best place is just around the upper cut line. Anything on the bark won't get absorbed. For info, I did this in a fuller video if you're interested: th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.html
Im not many years into bonsai, but would you say this is airlayering on an experienced level?
Yes definitely, it's basically the ring-bark method with sphagnum to force new roots above the cut. Same as air layering.
I would also say, I would not do this on any valuable bonsai "just in case", and I wouldn't risk it on a coniferous tree nor on any unhealthy or less vigorous tree.
But elms can take it fine. Several other common species too, like olives, several tropicals, many fruiters like apple and pomegranate.
You don't have to girdle the whole plant and you could have just exposed the cambium layer so that the bottom Roots wouldn't die
Wouldn't it of been easier add soil to the level you wanted it,or take it out and replant it deeper in the soil.
Can this be done to Jade succulents?
I've never tried on a jade, so don't know.
I guess it probably won't work on any succulents. Their physiology is not the same as trees.
@@BlueSkyBonsai thanks, I appreciate the reply.
Doesn't girdling kill the tree?
Yes it can kill a tree, but not if you follow the instructions in the full video of this: th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.html
Why do you remove the old trunk?
otherwise it wouldn't fit in a shallow pot. Here you can see me putting it in a shallow pot a few weeks ago: th-cam.com/users/shortsy-ZbmA2a5sU
Damn how do those things stay alive
I recommend you start by watching the first few videos on this list, then you'll be in a good position to keep them alive and healthy! th-cam.com/play/PLYoSjHfqA6g-39CCEjtTIGIMQNnE-Kaku.html
I wonder if this works with cannabis stems
😮🤯
But isn't this technique only for deciduous trees? How about evergreens?
Evergreen is too broad a category to give a general guideline. But the most common evergreens in bonsai can take an air layer or ground layer Ok.
Tropical broadleaf evergreens like Ficus- no problem.
Temperate broadleaf evergreens like Olive - no problem.
Coniferous evergreens - some yes, some not so easy. Junipers are generally ok. Pines can take 2 years to root sufficiently.
In any case, I wouldn't do this on a tree that's really valuable to me, "just in case".
HTH.
Wow would have thought for sure that would kill it
I get that.
In bonsai we sometimes need to something that appears drastic, but has beautiful long-term benefits.
If you're interested, the full video of this work is here, I explain in a lot more detail why it was worthwhile doing this work on this elm: th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.html
Would be interested in your opinion!
সমাজের ও মানুষের কাজে লাগে এমন কিছু ভিডিও করুন শুভেচ্ছা রইলো।
Thanks for sharing your thought. While I understand your request, my content is focused on bonsai, which is clear from my channel name. I'm glad you are part of my audience, and I hope you'll continue to enjoy the content I create.
Usually watching ppl hack bonsai trees doesn't make me wince. I'm sure you know what you are doing and the information seems good. But that is scarry to watch. Looks more like carving than cultivating.
Thanks for your comment! I would be interested to hear your opinion on the full video of this work, I tried to approach the project more sensitively.
Maybe it's my editing in this YT Short that makes it look ruthless, but in the long version (it's
@@BlueSkyBonsai o I thought it was a well made short hahaha. I was def being squeamish haha!! I'll check out full vid!
I’m scared 😱
Isn't this essentially killing the old root system and forcing the trees to start Up from scratch? Seems pretty risky.
In a way, yes. We're forcing it to grow new roots. But the old roots below continue to grow, and they try to push up new shoots elsewhere in the soil. Did you see the full video of this work? It has a lot more details and you can see how the old roots stayed alive... until I chopped them off: th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.html
It's not that risky for an elm, as long as the layer package stays moist all summer. I wouldn't risk it for a coniferous tree though.
so airlayer
Doesn't that hurt?
No, trees don't have nerves so there is no pain. And they don't have brains so there are no feelings.
@@BlueSkyBonsai poor baby tree anyway
Why girdling? Why not just cut off the old roots?
Good question. The heartwood still holds a lot of water and via simple capillary action it brings up water from the old roots. You can see that there is a lot of foliage on this tree and all those leaves transpire water into the air, in exchange for carbon dioxide. While the water is delivered up to the leaves via the xylem tubes, these are in close contact with the heartwood. If you cut off the old roots at the start of the process, the stump might try to heal over and stop sucking in water from below. I wouldn't risk it, but if I did try it as an experiment I would cover the entire foliage mass with a clear plastic bag to keep humidity at 100% inside, to almost completely stop the transpiration from drying the leaves with less water available in the heartwood. This works for small cuttings, but like I said I wouldn't risk it for an entire tree.
@@BlueSkyBonsai Thanks! That makes sense !👍
Griddling a tree is very dangerous and will kill the tree 4 times out of 10. (not mentioned in the video)
Thanks for your comment!
Done at the right time of year, in mid-spring, it's pretty safe for a many species, I have had success with various different elms, olives, pomegranates, 'indoor' ficus, and sageretias.
True that if you have a valuable or well-established bonsai, you wouldn't want to risk ground layering, it's much more appropriate for developing trees.
Maybe also the key is to use rooting hormone, I know some people try it without the hormone.. I definitely observe a good root growth and spread with rooting hormone.
Similarly, cuttings are demonstrably less likely to strike roots when I haven't added hormone.
I was thinking the same thing without the numbers, would it be less likely to root if only partially girdled? I'm guessing letting it ever get even close to dry is certain to cause failure.
@@michaeljarvis5489 partial girdling doesn't work because the remaining cambium creates a load of callusing tissue and tries to cover the wound with callus, instead of creating new roots.
You need to confidently girdle all the way round and remove a complete ring of cambium. Cut in with a clean sharp knife and make it a straight line around the trunk. The water from the soil and lower roots can still go up through the heartwood and any remaining sapwood. Rooting hormone improves the new root spread. The packed-in damp sphagnum moss ensures that the cut line doesn't dry up. If the upper cut line dries then yes your tree might die.
I wouldn't want to risk it on an old valuable bonsai... but try it on a cheap elm so you can see it works! If you do, I recommend you first watch the full length video of this because I put a lot more details in that: th-cam.com/video/c1nasUQCRiM/w-d-xo.html
@@michaeljarvis5489 also there is another technique that is much less risky but takes several years. You can tie a tourniquet (use thick wire, touching the trunk firmly, but not so tight that it stops sap flow) several loops around just below where you want the new root plane. Then bury it much deeper in a large, deep pot so the area you're trying to develop is buried for a few years. As the whole trunk grows thicker it will start to send out new roots above your tourniquet, while it can't thicken the trunk at the position of your tourniquet. The risk is if it starts to callus over your tourniquet- and if the callus joins then it fails and you don't get a good new root spread. That's why you need thick wire and a few loops.
Is bonsai barbaric?
No, bonsai is beautiful.
It is stunningly beautiful, I agree. This just made me uncomfortable, somehow. Doesn't feel right. I wanted to start learning the art, but now I'm considering. I fully realize I may have gone mad lol! And I truly mean no offense. I appreciate the informative and very well-made video nonetheless!
@@abbypitts3857 this short video showed an advanced technique and I wouldn't risk it on a more valuable or refined bonsai. It's true that the ground layer technique appears harsh. But if you consider a traditional Japanese view of bonsai as being the art of representing a tree's struggle to grow and reproduce balanced against the harsh elements of nature. In the wild, many trees suffer a lot worse than we inflict on them, with our daily-watering routines, good soil and healthy roots.
In the spirit of beautiful bonsai, if you have some spare time I hope you enjoy this video about why we prune bonsai trees: th-cam.com/video/cOGAJ5iqWfk/w-d-xo.html
Or this one about how to revive a bonsai: th-cam.com/video/F7o8z5eT_Uw/w-d-xo.html
Or this video of how to make a bonsai tree's apex look more mature and refined: th-cam.com/video/-XGcV3uiZJ8/w-d-xo.html
And I have to tell you, I did the harsh ground layer last year... now here is a photo of how the elm bonsai looks this year - very healthy and happy: flic.kr/p/2ovvwEa
flic.kr/p/2ovvwER
I hope this helps you decide to go ahead with this beautiful hobby!
The absolute slaughter of trees that will come from me trying this will be epic, and told in fear by nature for generations to come.
Stealing this technique for sure!! Thank you 🙏
It's yours to keep! I recommend try it on some cheap material so you're not risking more valuable bonsai, first time round.
Why just why
Two words. Living art.
Good chance you could kill it. Be careful 👌
Its like a surgery
Haha yes I guess so.
... Or you could just give your bonsaï a deeper pot 😅
Ooooo that was painful to watch...
Sorry to hear that! I guess you've never seen this done before then?
@Blue Sky Bonsai no. Its impressive though!
So cruel.
How so? Or was that a joke?
XD
😂
Man...bonsai feels like plant torture. You know they can "see" and sense their environment. Not sure if they have a pain response. Havent looked into where the research has gotten to now but... either way this just feels wrong. Puttinf your tree in bondage. Cute ing off limbs and roots on the regular. Just brutalizing your plants man. I guess they look cute. In a veal sort of way.
Trees don't feel pain because they don't have nerves or brains.
Also, this small elm shoot was salvaged from a hedge, where it would have been killed by a gardener - so in this way the tree is enjoying a healthy life of watering and feeding - much better than dead! Have a look into the research, you'll see that bonsai trees enjoy a life of luxury compared to the harsh conditions of nature in the wild.
@@BlueSkyBonsai what I stated wasn't conjecture or tree hugging nonsense.
"Trees can also taste, touch, smell, hear and feel. And they exhibit these characteristics just the way animals do"
Just search trees are sentient and it will be your first result...again I do not know if we have found anything that acts like a endorphins. But who knows in a couple years.
Boring
Haha but evidently not so boring that you could ignore it and move on!