@@billvan5219, I got curious and watched a couple minutes of a video with him. I can't put my finger on why, but he immediately rubbed me the wrong way.
Cut 4 ft of paracord. (Be sure to burn the ends so it doesn’t fray). Run the paracord through the belt loop of your BK-9 sheath and tie it around your waist secured with a square knot. It will beat a dangler every time. It will move out of your way and you can readjust it easily. This is the way SAS survival expert Lofty Wiseman carried his parangs.
Wow. I do basically the same thing to certain fixed-blades to have a more versatile carry and to get outa my way when forced with climbing rock obstacles. Ive got "loops and line" on several fixed-blade rigs, and i just like it. Starting doing that 40-something years ago, and still do when i go thru certain terrains.. i've been messin about in forests and tough terrains for over 50 years. I respect whatever knife i use, found out not to chop with my field knife like this fella has been saying. Get a small saw or hand axe. Treat 'em like your best girl. Ive used the same field knife over 40 years, and, as with any knife, i dont try to see if i can destroy it like some do. I try to respect whatever limits it may have by having amother tool if plausible that suits heavier tasks. I've never truly believed in "only one knife" principle. Through the decades, ive up to 4-6 knives for different tasks, plus short machetes, and sometimes a hand axe, not on a regular basis. Sorry to ramble. But glad to see someone else use the "loop and line" on the knives. Safe travels. Huckster
Seth and Thomas you guys can be very proud to produce one of the best videos I have ever seen. The key ingredient is the friendly and close approach. Just one word FANTASTIC
Good job Seth and Thomas. Well considered/thoughtful commentary and definitely made me want to buy every knife on that table. I appreciated the video and would like to see more! Whether that's Seth doing hands on survival skill learning or just getting to do some hands on shopping. Keep up the great work.
I did this same exercise and ended up with the cold steel drop forged Survivalist. It’s about a pound of 52100 carbon steel, but it’s well balanced and capable of performing every camp task under the sun. I honestly don’t think I could break this thing if I tried. Only drawback was the rear cross guard, but with some light modification, it magically disappeared. Great knife, better value, “Drop Forged Survivalist”
Pity you did not consider the CS Trail Master! I have one and it excludes two important aspects. The cross guards are fine and my San Mai III version does not corrode and is super tough, full convex grind. It's a superbly balanced knife (like the Survivalist)! Check it out - but I warn you, you might just end up buying one!
The Fallkniven might surprise you. I find my F1's handle to be very comfortable. Also, they are specifically designed to work with gloves, which is a good idea in a survival situation.
I lived in the woods for 8yrs f1 was my belt knife and bark river tracker for my heavier tasks. F1 is an amazing knife,rather surprised how well it did.
I'd love to see more videos like this. I'm a big fan of the Ka-Bar BK2 (after replacing the scales with Micarta), Terava Skrama 240, and Joker Nomad, but I love LT Wright knives. I have a Cold Steel SRK and it's an outstanding garden knife.
Calling 9260 a tool steel is really a misnomer. It is more accurate to call it a spring steel. It’s almost like someone took 1065 and added a huge amount of silicon to it, taking what was already a tough steel and making it even more impact resistant. Sword makers like Paul Chen use 9260 to make long but exceedingly strong katanas from it. APOC tools don’t have a great deal of exposure yet, but among those who use them, they have earned a great deal of trust.
I have a bunch of blades made from it myself. Small black Smith, friend, and I can't say enough about them. His artistic ability to make the weapon/tool to fit what I wanted, and the durability of them is insane. At first I bought them to have them in my collection and one for use, now I have many to pass to my children, I can't see many blades holding up like they do and if my kids need a blade i want it to he something I trust for them as well, not to mention each was made special for each one of them , with touches that fit their personality.
@@beentheredonethat5908 Yeah, 9260 is great for making strong, tough blades. The only real downside to it (as long as you don't need it to be stainless, but even then 9260 isn't that bad with rust) is that the large amount of silicon means forging 9260 is somewhere between very difficult and almost impossible. If you're going to forge a blade rather than grind/stock removal a blade, you're better off with one of the simple 10xx series steels, or better yet, something like 80CrV2. However, for just grinding out a tough, dependable large blade, 9260 is great stuff.
@@ap0lmc Certainly not. 5160 is similar, yet very different from 9260 at the same time. Chemically, 5160 has small amounts of chromium, while 9260 has none whatever. However, the big difference is in the silicon. While 5160 has a very small amount on silicon, 9260 has significantly more. The higher levels of silicon are a real impediment to forging. In addition, 5160 is much more forgiving in the heat treatment. With 9260 it's much harder to get a good quench and temper. APOC and Cheness are about the only producers who consistently get good HT with 9260. Much of Asia (especially Nepal) not to mention the rest of the world is filled with smiths getting marvelous performance with 5160.
@@random_eskimo_in_the_rockies thanks. What about Cheness swords are they any good? Some people said they're inconsistent and others love them. I heard they're out of business.
Great choice. I spent years modding my BK9 to improve performance. It was great as is but I kept tweaking it for fun and purpose as the years went on. It's now pretty much unrivaled in my collection.
good choice on the BK9 .. I have chopped down a couple of 8 inch pines up in Idaho ... my cousin was quite surprised that while he was sleeping I was starting on a log cabin ... even after those 2 trees .. it would still shave hair on my arm.
Smart choice. Bk9 is legendary. As you develop your skill set, the bk9 will keep up with you. For my Army survival training, I had a Kabar. On our kits, we have bk9s. I do have the Srk, cold steel trailmaster, and microtech curahee. I recommend a good pair of leather gloves and the benchmade Keychain sharpener. Also, take a multitool and a op folder. Oh no, two more shows. Lol. The FM army survival manual is the Bible for survival manuals.
I have a hard time pinning down just what I think a survival knife is. I always end up with a bushcraft or camping knife. It's the kind of knife I would want if I were lost in the woods, and I would prioritize toughness. I look at those big honkers and I don't think that's what I would want. Too cumbersome. Yes, you could do some chopping, but not enough to really produce a lot of firewood or building materials. I don't think you'll be using any knife for that, too often. I don't think I'd go bigger than the SRK or Esee 6. A little story: When I was a teenager, I was into backpacking and wilderness survival, etc. I asked my Dad for a knife and he asked what kind I would like. I said, "the kind of knife you'd want if you were lost in the woods." On my birthday, he got me a Buck 119 Special. He reinforced the sheath with some rivets and stamped the spine, "For Mike From Dad - 1981." I took it on many outdoor adventures, but never had occasion to get lost in the woods and put it to the test. I still have it and cherish it, since my Dad passed away just in January.
That knife is priceless. I have a 1980 Schrade LB7. I'm now in my 60's and still think its a great knife. My son will get, and other more expensive ones, but that old folder is special.
@@mikehigbee2320 Its the one you have with, so always treat it right. The knife isnt so much the issue. Knowledge and skill and experience is how you make it thru. You can find a river or fteek bed and a good shiny or smooth rock, bteak it with anither rock, and you have a cutting edge.ive done that few times just to test Did one thin and sharp. Another with fat break but edge good ekough for rough work.
@@Kyle-bb9zp I have a '80 vintage Schrade LB7 with original sheath I carried for years. I was 18. Now at 62 almost, I look at it and relive the memories as I ponder giving it to my son. Maybe next year.😉
anything in 1095 that’s over $100 and isn’t a custom knife is overpriced as shit, especially when you can get 14c, 12c, nitro v, dc53, 52100, etc and if you catch a sale on a cold steel SRK/SRKc even 3v for under $100. i’ve even seen the cold steel master hunter in 3v for under $85. 1095 needs to go by the wayside, especially since these companies give it DOG SHIT heat treats treating them to 57-58 hrc which is absolutely stupid and ridiculous. some of the best bang for your buck survival knives are bark river, cold steel’s 3v and 52100 drop forged knives, brisa’s knives in e general but especially the trapper in O1 and elmax, battle horse knives, joker, and obviously mora. also can’t forget the terrava jakaripuuko in 80crv2.
@@TheSpoovy And yet Becker keeps selling huge numbers of knives each year, not to mention the THOUSANDS of 1095 knives sold by Esee and Tops. Why? Because there are a lot of people out there who either work or play hard with their knives, and we know we can depend on an expertly heat-treated piece of 1095 to do what it's supposed to: cut and cut and cut while holding together under abuse. I'm a teacher in a small ranching/farming communities in the high Rockies. I have students who come in to class after pulling in hay loads or shearing sheep still carrying a Tops BOB or a BK16 on their belt because they forget to leave it in their truck. They come to my class first because they know they can leave it with me and pick it up at the end of the day and I won't turn them in (yes, the assistant Principal knows I do this.) We've got plenty of kids who join the Army or the Marines, one of the most common gifts is a BK7. Nothing wrong with simplicity.
@@CadillacDriver firstly the sp10 is a literal wedge. i own an sp2 and it has the worst geometry i’ve ever seen on any knife. the sp10 is worse. secondly, 52100 and 3v specifically but also 14c and 12c are all MILES tougher than any 1095. there’s a reason you find 3v on the big ass chopping knives, there’s a reason 52100 is used on them. you can continue to be wrong all you’d like but objective numbers do not lie.
Go with Esee Junglas exact same size as the BK9, but if you want micarta and kydex on your BK9 will be cheaper in the long run comparatively to go with the Esee. 130 for Kabar + Kydex + handles will be well over 200 where the esee Junglas already comes with those options for the same or less.
While I did go with an BK7 and did go with the scale upgrade and really liked that combo, but when I went for a bigger blade, I went the same way you suggest and really am pleased and highly recommend it .
I’ve recently been down this road, but I ultimately decided to get all four of my finalists. 1) Zombie Tools Belmont 2) ESEE Junglas 3) BK9 And the last one, I still don’t have yet. 4) Trail Master San Mai
Spend some money on having an experience with a knife you already have! Make some memories, take a course.....I also use and collect knives. Just my opinion
Skip all the others and just go straight for the TM San Mai! I love mine! I had Rob Evans (Wales, UK) make me a stunning leather dangler sheath for it! Proud owner.
You chose well Grasshopper. A survival knife is not a safe queen or a work of art. It needs to be able to dig a dakota fire hole, cat hole, chop and split firewood, a step platform to climb a tree and be able to beat the hell out of when necessary.
Bk-9 is a solid knife, and even if you don't like it the experience from using it will guide future purchasing. For another option: have you considered a socket style knife? They're a proven design that's in use around the world for a reason, granted less so in the western/industrialized/commercialized nations, but for daily tasks and those similar to survival they do nicely and have even more function if the maker put/followed the traditional thoughts of purpose into it.
Everything is a tradeoff. More size and weight for chopping means it is tougher to use for smaller tasks. The ESEE 6 for me is a nice weight/size, though other steel options would be nice like 3V. I grabbed the SRK 3V when I saw it on sale somewhere for $99. Crazy deal!
To be honest I am never going to need a big knife for survival in the UK, however I do have a few large choppers I have used while camping for splitting kindling etc that would be because for some people, collecting blades is what you do. In reality what I use most these days is a small axe on my allotment and in my woodland for hedgelaying, limbing and snedding, and chopping logs and branches, I could actually do most of what those big knives do with my vintage Elwell slasher as it can cut deep it's like an old English equivalent of a parang, but mainly it is a tool for brush clearance not a woodsman's constant companion and comes out when needed like my scythe and hedge trimmer. For actual survival I think a small axe, a folding saw and a puuko will do you. Can't think of much such a combination can't do cos in reality you are not going to be felling mighty redwoods are you? Another thing too I suppose, I am into the aesthetics of knives, I like hand crafted handles made from natural materials and leather sheaths, generally that I have made myself because that is all part of the fun, there is nothing more satisfying than using a knife with a handle that has been crafted just for you and feels absolutely right.
Great selection of fixed blades. I only have a few fixed blades in my collection and thinking about something in this category and size range. The Joker is the one I would choose.
Love that LT. I have a small LT Wright in AEB-L. Best edge I have in my collection. All the chatter about particle metal but it's edge is wonderfully smooth and sharp! It's also the knife people gravitate to when they visit my house.
I want to see you take it to the field, add a basic gear, then survive with it, build traps, build a shelter, cook, butcher small game, all the things survivalists have to do. then come back and tell us how it went.
@@gamallsdokkalfs7253 its a "survival knife" those are survival tasks. I want to know how that knife fulfills the tasks required of a true survival knife.
Good choice….I have the BK 9, but my actual knife that rides in my backpack is a BK7, modified, micarta scales, no traction coating, and a kydex sheath! It does all I need it to do!
I sort of agree with you. Either the Joker, the ESEE 6 or the BK9 is all you need. Anything more expensive would only be justified by a super steel in my opinion.
Try the Terava Skrama 240 or the Terava Jaakaripuuko 140. Awesome Finnish knives for a good price with amazing leather sheaths that all come with danglers. The Skrama 240 runs for $115 with leather sheath. The Jaakaripuuko 140 for $89. Amazing knives. If I had not gotten already some knives I’d get both of them. They are an amazing combo. Terava is also a really cool surplus shop.
I have both the Joker Nomad and the SRK in 3V and can't complain about either. The nice thing about the Joker is the convex edge and pretty good steel, whereas the SRK is lightweight and has 3V.
Great video. I learned a lot! The SRK is my choice as a field knife and served me well over multiple deployments carried on my person. For “survival” my choice is an original, milspec, MOD-issue Kukri. It is just a super choice for all the survival functions cited in the video. I had one available for multiple deployments and often had it on a pack or in a vehicle rather than on my person. That knife mix worked well in a wide range of situations. My EDC is a Benchmade Barrage. It took a few years to come to these choices, but this is what worked for me in the military and law enforcement..
On your journey, do yourself a favour and make a turn towards Japan. That's where the Cold Steel Trail Master (San Mai III version) is hand-crafted in a full convex grind blade. It'll knock your socks off!
There is no one knife that can fulfill everything you need to do to survive in the wild. You need a large knife good edge retention and toughness. My choice is the ESEE Junglas. Next on the list is a medium-sized knife 5 to 7 inches in length with fine edge on good steel (14C28N, NITRO-V, S45VN, or even D2) with neutral handle shape. Finally a reliable folder in a steel that holds an edge and is corrosion resistant. I would want Micarta on all these, the good kind that's a little fuzzy when dry. What ever kind of steel you choose make sure that the heat treatment is correct for the type you choose. Good luck Seth.
yah, me too. My 21cm blade traditional Leuku, fulltang 12cm blade from EKA, and a Fällkniven folder with good edge retention in CoS steel. Then, if you want to chop down trees and logs, you use an axe and saw.
Personally, I prefer a convexed edge or a scandi for outdoor knives. It's just easier for me to hand sharpen in the field. I'm going to take a look at Joker.
I feel you with your start. Beacuse I also started with folding knifes and after a lot of them i started to appreciate fixed blades, cuz of the hard use and to just go crazy with them in the woods and for their "bulletproof" characteristics. Hf with your new knife. And get to know it good :)
There was an article in Soldier of Fortune magazine back in the 1980’s that talked about the best knife for combat and survival. They ended up recommending a three knife combo; a large knife with an eight to twelve inch blade, a smaller knife with a four to seven inch blade, and a folding knife with a serrated blade. My favorite three knife combo is my TOPS Armageddon, my TOPS Brakimo, and my Spyderco Mariner with serrated blade and stainless steel handle. For a one-knife “survival” knife, I would probably go with my TOPS Tahoma Field Knife, or even my TOPS Outpost Command. …you may be noticing a theme in my selections 😉
Great video - sharing your expert thoughts when buying a knife. It doesn't mean it will always transferable, but gives us inspiration. Simple knives like the Schrade have good basic specs and are great for modding. They can do what 90% of us actually need - not always what we want. No Condor on the table?
I have the Becker BK 9 and the Fallkniven A1. Either one would have my full confidence, but the Fallkniven is my One knife that stays in my pack. A tip for the BK 9: Take an hour and stipple the scales with the smallest tip on a wood burner, and then sand the stipples down to your preference. I have done a few different patterns. It really improves the grip on all the Becker knives.
Could you expand on your concern? That rubber handles would be fatiguing. I would think it would be exactly the opposite. Since they are a softer material than something like G10 or aluminum I would think they would help protect against fatigue maybe your experiences different
After using my CS Trail Master, I also don't understand that either, Krefcenz The other day I used my TM to do some extensive clearing out around a tree in the yard with tons of chopping/cutting and with far less fatigue than my previous wood-handled chopper. It was a sheer delight to use.
I'll answer for Seth here. Sometimes, counterintuitively, rubber handles can have TOO MUCH grip, which can actually cause blistering under some heavy or prolonged uses. -DCA
@@knifecenter Hi DCA, Yeah, I've seen you mention this before. Well I'm 75 years old, and do very little work with my hands, so they are pretty soft. I recently tackled two linden trees to cut away the thick growth around the bowl, where there were hundreds of suckers proliferating. We had a very wet winter and we sort of left them a bit late so they were quite tall, over a metre). I chopped them all out and in most cases cut them in half to fit the leaf bag. I also cut out some brambles into the bargain. After all that there was not even the slightest hint of a hot spot or blister formation. I was not even wearing gloves. My trusty TM came through with flying colours! I'm not sure what one would do that would require harder/longer work but this is possibly a guideline from which to start. For example, if I was doing hard chopping thick branches into shorter bits it might cause injury. But then I wouldn't be using a knife, but a saw! Right tool for the job. Thanks DC for taking the trouble to respond. Appreciated, as always. Cheers mate.
Well done 👏 The Earth Skills would probably be my first pick, I've never seen it before but damn that looks capable. If I was going boring I would definitely prefer the A1 or the SRK.
Excellent video. Love LTW, the Genesis for Bushcrafting is one of my favorites, Esee, great waranty and Tops are solid- (the BOB) and the Joker line is so good and affordable.
BK9 is a terrific knife. It has stood the test of time, and is still on that table for a reason. The same is true of the Esee 6. The Esee, paired up with an axe and saw, would serve you well in the woods when you start doing survival type tasks. Good luck with your adventures.
As soon as you said L.T. Wright, you said enough. Didn’t matter which model. You get what you pay for, and with that company you can absolutely trust. Period.
@@williamwaters6803 I have 2 knives from LT Wright: Jessmuk-C and Outback 3V. Both are as good as any knives I have, including my Randalls, Busses, and Chris Reeves. I'd count on either.
Great video dude!! Very informative and I think this is the best video you've done so far!! Definitely can tell the passion you have for this topic. I really appreciate and enjoyed your presentation!! ✌️
I’d love to see more of this type of video from you Seth. A follow up video would be cool after you’ve put a purchased knife through its paces or at least carrot for a bit. Keep up the good work Seth and Thomas. Always nice to see you guys on camera.
That leather sheath for the Tops Earth Skills, is a traditional mountain man/fur trapper knife sheath style from the mid 1800's. They work great. I have two Green River knives that live in sheaths like that, and they are easy to carry. Oh, and I now use a Khukuri with a 8 inch 5160 High Carbon Spring steel blade. That was made in Kathmandu, Nepal. I think it could out chop any knife you've shown. And it is very easy to sharpen. Once you learn how.
You should do a separate video on folding survival knives. Granted they may not be as strong as a Fix blade but with a strong lock, they could offer some big advantages in portability over Fix plate. Oh yes. Big payoff. I can think of one or two cold steels that would be in there
Bk9 is the most impractical choice. 99% of people in 99% of survival scenarios would be better served by a smaller, lighter, more nimble knife with better edge retention.
@@brawndothethirstmutilator9848 How do you define 99% of survival scenarios? We might have different definitions based on our activities out in the woods.
@AnomadAlaska, a survival situation = “Oh, sh** something unexpectedly went wrong in the bush and I have to self rescue.” The definition is pretty self explanatory from the words “survival situation”.
@AnomadAlaska, Sure no problem. I’ve never handled most of these knives, and I wouldn’t pick a knife to trust my life on without knowing it through experience. The only three I’ve used are the BK9, SRK (in 3v steel), and the Fallkniven. Out of those three I would choose the Fallkniven to trust my life to in an emergency survival situation. I would also hope that I was with the rest of my kit that would be selected for the environment I’m in so that I don’t have to self rescue with nothing but my belt knife.
You should have looked at the Condor Primitive Bush Knife. I haven't touched one yet, but it looks useful and is stainless steel. It might not have the edge retention of carbon steels but 420HC is damn tough and that's what you really want in a survival knife.
Joker is phenomenal. They are offering a great deal of value for the money. My favorites they offer are the Canadian and the Nessmuk S. My only concern with them is the lack of a decent hilt or finger guard. The handles are very comfortable, but they lack the protection I get from L.T. Wright’s GNS, Next Gen, or Gen 3.
your analytical selection is what I am 100% onboard... there so many awesome knives from the table but the Ka-Bar is the tried and true survival for chopping, doing some bushcraft task, and survival task... awesome selection!!!
I have the Cold Steel knives dropped forged, both the Hunter and Survivalist. Have used them both for chopping, splitting and general use. Not sure I could break either of there. Had a ‘survival’ knife from another manufacturer that broke in half splitting wood once. Prefer to carry an axe or tomahawk for basic splitting now. A little extra weight but I don’t have to worry about my main fixed blade anymore. Great video. A few temptations but satisfied (for now).
If someone forgot to mention to you or show you, you do not chop or split wood with a knife. That is the job of an ax or a hatchet. Oh and by the way, you also don’t drive nails with a screwdriver that’s the job of a hammer. 😊
Good knife. BK7 was my camp knife from the days when they were made by Camillus. The stock handle is ergonomically perfect IMHO. My advice is a couple of wraps with grip tape around the handle. In wet hands it's like a wet bar of soap. I ended up making my own handle slabs from green canvas Micarta. Now they're offered and worth the extra purchase.
Wtf are you talking about? I don't partake in them 🤣 It seems to me you have no idea what chopping is, and it's clearly apparent you don't know what Seth is talking about. He wants chopping power - for wood. And as I already stated, the Kukri is NOT what you want for that task. What did you think he meant when he said he wants "chopping power"?
GREAT VIDEO! However, you may want to consider a tomahawk (or a boy's ax) paired with a 4-inch fixed-blade knife, vs a "survival" (read: big) knife. Remember: you got to your "survival situation" in a vehicle or riding or walking with an animal(s). A 2nd (or 3rd) tool is reasonable to have. It's wise to use a pair of walking sticks--for their mechanical and other advantages--if you're INTENSIONALLY without a vehicle or animal(s). You still have a net advantage if you use them and carry a 2nd (or 3rd) tool.
@knifecenter I got a 6” Ex Ghurka House Kukri from Kult of Athena for $50 and sanded the rough edges down myself. I just spent two weeks in Yellowstone using it to process store bought bundles down to small tinder and powder. Cant have unhoused fires up there. It was/is dextrous and insanely sharp and durable.
I've never understood this concept. If you can take the time to belt up a knife you can take the time to belt up a hatchet and a smaller "knifier" knife that's better suited for carving, drilling, cutting, and processing. Otherwise the best survival knife is the one that's on you. I doubt many folks have an edc bk9
Please do more of these buying, and we would LOVE reviews/tests of the chosen knives!
Who else wants to see Joe Flowers teach Seth survival knife skills? -DCA
Better yet, Joe Flowers takes both Seth and Thomas on a trek through the Brazilian Rain Forest. That'd be an AWESOME show!
YES.
@@random_eskimo_in_the_rockiesI second this motion! Seth and Thomas in the Amazon!
Yessss!
@@knifecenter that would be awesome .
The joker are very nice knives no matter what you buy they are great
Great video! I like this guy. He’s not pretending to be a know-it-all like the Blade HQ punk.
Blade hq "DILBERT"
Who's the Blade HQ punk? I stopped paying attention to BHQ's videos after Ben moved on.
@@PlantDaddy1991 George AKA DILBERT, every once in a while I make the mistake of watching till I'm ready to scream
@@billvan5219, I got curious and watched a couple minutes of a video with him. I can't put my finger on why, but he immediately rubbed me the wrong way.
ya... Blade HQ dodo boyyyy... i hate that fake guy
A BK7 would also be a great choice and the SRK is such a good knife, crazy value
Cut 4 ft of paracord. (Be sure to burn the ends so it doesn’t fray). Run the paracord through the belt loop of your BK-9 sheath and tie it around your waist secured with a square knot. It will beat a dangler every time. It will move out of your way and you can readjust it easily. This is the way SAS survival expert Lofty Wiseman carried his parangs.
I'm having trouble picturing that in any way that sounds comfortable...
Wow. I do basically the same thing to certain fixed-blades to have a more versatile carry and to get outa my way when forced with climbing rock obstacles. Ive got "loops and line" on several fixed-blade rigs, and i just like it. Starting doing that 40-something years ago, and still do when i go thru certain terrains.. i've been messin about in forests and tough terrains for over 50 years. I respect whatever knife i use, found out not to chop with my field knife like this fella has been saying. Get a small saw or hand axe. Treat 'em like your best girl. Ive used the same field knife over 40 years, and, as with any knife, i dont try to see if i can destroy it like some do. I try to respect whatever limits it may have by having amother tool if plausible that suits heavier tasks. I've never truly believed in "only one knife" principle. Through the decades, ive up to 4-6 knives for different tasks, plus short machetes, and sometimes a hand axe, not on a regular basis. Sorry to ramble. But glad to see someone else use the "loop and line" on the knives. Safe travels. Huckster
Seth and Thomas you guys can be very proud to produce one of the best videos I have ever seen. The key ingredient is the friendly and close approach. Just one word FANTASTIC
Good job Seth and Thomas. Well considered/thoughtful commentary and definitely made me want to buy every knife on that table. I appreciated the video and would like to see more! Whether that's Seth doing hands on survival skill learning or just getting to do some hands on shopping. Keep up the great work.
I did this same exercise and ended up with the cold steel drop forged Survivalist. It’s about a pound of 52100 carbon steel, but it’s well balanced and capable of performing every camp task under the sun. I honestly don’t think I could break this thing if I tried.
Only drawback was the rear cross guard, but with some light modification, it magically disappeared.
Great knife, better value, “Drop Forged Survivalist”
Pity you did not consider the CS Trail Master! I have one and it excludes two important aspects. The cross guards are fine and my San Mai III version does not corrode and is super tough, full convex grind. It's a superbly balanced knife (like the Survivalist)! Check it out - but I warn you, you might just end up buying one!
@@dennisleighton2812 you have the SanMai version?
The Fallkniven might surprise you. I find my F1's handle to be very comfortable. Also, they are specifically designed to work with gloves, which is a good idea in a survival situation.
I lived in the woods for 8yrs f1 was my belt knife and bark river tracker for my heavier tasks. F1 is an amazing knife,rather surprised how well it did.
I would love to see more videos like this. Seth, dca or Thomas deciding between a variety of knives for a particular use is cool
Wait until you go into a wet environment and youll fully appreciate those Fallkniven handles ❤
Same goes for cold environments if you live where that happens the rubber helps
Was a bit surprised you didn't have the lionsteel m7 in the mix . But my choices are not the same as others .
I’d go with the T6, but yes I too was very surprised to not see a Lionsteel in there!
I see what you guys mean. But ofcoars, it's tough to get all the favorites in there. Likewise. How isn't the TRC's apocalypse in there?
@@Philophong After many months I finally chose the TRC Apocalypse over the Fallkniven A1 Pro. I agree it should at least be in consideration.
I'd love to see more videos like this. I'm a big fan of the Ka-Bar BK2 (after replacing the scales with Micarta), Terava Skrama 240, and Joker Nomad, but I love LT Wright knives. I have a Cold Steel SRK and it's an outstanding garden knife.
Calling 9260 a tool steel is really a misnomer. It is more accurate to call it a spring steel. It’s almost like someone took 1065 and added a huge amount of silicon to it, taking what was already a tough steel and making it even more impact resistant. Sword makers like Paul Chen use 9260 to make long but exceedingly strong katanas from it. APOC tools don’t have a great deal of exposure yet, but among those who use them, they have earned a great deal of trust.
I have a bunch of blades made from it myself. Small black Smith, friend, and I can't say enough about them. His artistic ability to make the weapon/tool to fit what I wanted, and the durability of them is insane. At first I bought them to have them in my collection and one for use, now I have many to pass to my children, I can't see many blades holding up like they do and if my kids need a blade i want it to he something I trust for them as well, not to mention each was made special for each one of them , with touches that fit their personality.
@@beentheredonethat5908 Yeah, 9260 is great for making strong, tough blades. The only real downside to it (as long as you don't need it to be stainless, but even then 9260 isn't that bad with rust) is that the large amount of silicon means forging 9260 is somewhere between very difficult and almost impossible. If you're going to forge a blade rather than grind/stock removal a blade, you're better off with one of the simple 10xx series steels, or better yet, something like 80CrV2. However, for just grinding out a tough, dependable large blade, 9260 is great stuff.
Are you mistaking 5160 spring steel?
@@ap0lmc Certainly not. 5160 is similar, yet very different from 9260 at the same time. Chemically, 5160 has small amounts of chromium, while 9260 has none whatever. However, the big difference is in the silicon. While 5160 has a very small amount on silicon, 9260 has significantly more. The higher levels of silicon are a real impediment to forging. In addition, 5160 is much more forgiving in the heat treatment. With 9260 it's much harder to get a good quench and temper. APOC and Cheness are about the only producers who consistently get good HT with 9260. Much of Asia (especially Nepal) not to mention the rest of the world is filled with smiths getting marvelous performance with 5160.
@@random_eskimo_in_the_rockies thanks. What about Cheness swords are they any good? Some people said they're inconsistent and others love them. I heard they're out of business.
In my experience a rubber handle is less fatiguing because it absorbs a lot of the shock when chopping and pressing hard for batoning.
Great choice. I spent years modding my BK9 to improve performance. It was great as is but I kept tweaking it for fun and purpose as the years went on. It's now pretty much unrivaled in my collection.
Please do a follow up with the changes you make with the BK9. Thanks
good choice on the BK9 .. I have chopped down a couple of 8 inch pines up in Idaho ... my cousin was quite surprised that while he was sleeping I was starting on a log cabin ... even after those 2 trees .. it would still shave hair on my arm.
If chopping is your main idea wouldn’t small forest axe or hatchet be a better idea?
Nice lineup I have to say. My personal favorite knife of all time is the bk9. So I'd recommend it and never looking back
Best all around is the Roach Belly - Fighting, carving, skinning, kitchen, and Bushcraft. It does it all.
The BK-9 is an excellent choice.
It’s like the Colt 1911, in that it hasn’t changed or gone out of style.
Solid and dependable.
Smart choice. Bk9 is legendary. As you develop your skill set, the bk9 will keep up with you. For my Army survival training, I had a Kabar. On our kits, we have bk9s. I do have the Srk, cold steel trailmaster, and microtech curahee. I recommend a good pair of leather gloves and the benchmade Keychain sharpener. Also, take a multitool and a op folder. Oh no, two more shows. Lol. The FM army survival manual is the Bible for survival manuals.
I'd think the last thing you'd want if you don't know when you are getting home is a knife you can't sharpen?
Some things are just So well suited to tasks that they are hard to improve on ! Great video & choice !
I'll take the Joker Nomad 6.5
Great video Seth and Thomas.
this is EXACTLY the kind of content I want to see! Put that Becker through a gauntlet!
I've been trying to talk myself into a joker nomad 6.5 for years. It will happen!!
I have a hard time pinning down just what I think a survival knife is. I always end up with a bushcraft or camping knife. It's the kind of knife I would want if I were lost in the woods, and I would prioritize toughness. I look at those big honkers and I don't think that's what I would want. Too cumbersome. Yes, you could do some chopping, but not enough to really produce a lot of firewood or building materials. I don't think you'll be using any knife for that, too often. I don't think I'd go bigger than the SRK or Esee 6.
A little story: When I was a teenager, I was into backpacking and wilderness survival, etc. I asked my Dad for a knife and he asked what kind I would like. I said, "the kind of knife you'd want if you were lost in the woods." On my birthday, he got me a Buck 119 Special. He reinforced the sheath with some rivets and stamped the spine, "For Mike From Dad - 1981." I took it on many outdoor adventures, but never had occasion to get lost in the woods and put it to the test. I still have it and cherish it, since my Dad passed away just in January.
That's a good survival knife just might have limitations but still very capable. Buck makes very good things and has a very good warranty.
That knife is priceless. I have a 1980 Schrade LB7. I'm now in my 60's and still think its a great knife. My son will get, and other more expensive ones, but that old folder is special.
@@mikehigbee2320 Its the one you have with, so always treat it right. The knife isnt so much the issue. Knowledge and skill and experience is how you make it thru. You can find a river or fteek bed and a good shiny or smooth rock, bteak it with anither rock, and you have a cutting edge.ive done that few times just to test Did one thin and sharp. Another with fat break but edge good ekough for rough work.
@@Kyle-bb9zp I have a '80 vintage Schrade LB7 with original sheath I carried for years. I was 18. Now at 62 almost, I look at it and relive the memories as I ponder giving it to my son. Maybe next year.😉
anything in 1095 that’s over $100 and isn’t a custom knife is overpriced as shit, especially when you can get 14c, 12c, nitro v, dc53, 52100, etc and if you catch a sale on a cold steel SRK/SRKc even 3v for under $100. i’ve even seen the cold steel master hunter in 3v for under $85. 1095 needs to go by the wayside, especially since these companies give it DOG SHIT heat treats treating them to 57-58 hrc which is absolutely stupid and ridiculous. some of the best bang for your buck survival knives are bark river, cold steel’s 3v and 52100 drop forged knives, brisa’s knives in e general but especially the trapper in O1 and elmax, battle horse knives, joker, and obviously mora. also can’t forget the terrava jakaripuuko in 80crv2.
Bark River has some big issues not to long ago. Labeling steels wrong if I remember correctly.
Absolutely. I can't believe people are still buying 1095 knives at these prices. Ka-Bar should be making the Beckers in 3V or something by now.
@@TheSpoovy And yet Becker keeps selling huge numbers of knives each year, not to mention the THOUSANDS of 1095 knives sold by Esee and Tops. Why? Because there are a lot of people out there who either work or play hard with their knives, and we know we can depend on an expertly heat-treated piece of 1095 to do what it's supposed to: cut and cut and cut while holding together under abuse. I'm a teacher in a small ranching/farming communities in the high Rockies. I have students who come in to class after pulling in hay loads or shearing sheep still carrying a Tops BOB or a BK16 on their belt because they forget to leave it in their truck. They come to my class first because they know they can leave it with me and pick it up at the end of the day and I won't turn them in (yes, the assistant Principal knows I do this.) We've got plenty of kids who join the Army or the Marines, one of the most common gifts is a BK7. Nothing wrong with simplicity.
@@acid6urns I have an SP-10 that is indestructible. I'd not expect half the steels you have mentioned, to survive what mine has.
@@CadillacDriver firstly the sp10 is a literal wedge. i own an sp2 and it has the worst geometry i’ve ever seen on any knife. the sp10 is worse. secondly, 52100 and 3v specifically but also 14c and 12c are all MILES tougher than any 1095. there’s a reason you find 3v on the big ass chopping knives, there’s a reason 52100 is used on them. you can continue to be wrong all you’d like but objective numbers do not lie.
I have a Joker Nomad 6.5 and it is a great knife, the convex grind is still tricky for me to sharpen, but it feels stronger than a flat grind.
Go with Esee Junglas exact same size as the BK9, but if you want micarta and kydex on your BK9 will be cheaper in the long run comparatively to go with the Esee. 130 for Kabar + Kydex + handles will be well over 200 where the esee Junglas already comes with those options for the same or less.
Thanks for the comment. I've wanted to add to that part of my collection (fixed blades), and that's a nice tip! Thanks again!
While I did go with an BK7 and did go with the scale upgrade and really liked that combo, but when I went for a bigger blade, I went the same way you suggest and really am pleased and highly recommend it .
BK9 AWESOME KNIFE IF I HAVE TO PICK ONE THIS IS IT ,THE DO IT ALL AND THEN SOME
Todd, sorry mate, the Junglas is way bigger than the BK9!
@@dennisleighton2812 Junglas II, 88.75 " - close enough for me !
I’ve recently been down this road, but I ultimately decided to get all four of my finalists.
1) Zombie Tools Belmont
2) ESEE Junglas
3) BK9
And the last one, I still don’t have yet.
4) Trail Master San Mai
Spend some money on having an experience with a knife you already have! Make some memories, take a course.....I also use and collect knives. Just my opinion
Skip all the others and just go straight for the TM San Mai! I love mine! I had Rob Evans (Wales, UK) make me a stunning leather dangler sheath for it! Proud owner.
@@dennisleighton2812he already got the others!
😅
Now he'll leave all the others at home!
I would opt for the Trailmaster in 3V. San Mai gets chippy when chopping wood!
You chose well Grasshopper. A survival knife is not a safe queen or a work of art. It needs to be able to dig a dakota fire hole, cat hole, chop and split firewood, a step platform to climb a tree and be able to beat the hell out of when necessary.
You could just get a red headed stepchild for that
😂@@logangodofcandy
Bk-9 is a solid knife, and even if you don't like it the experience from using it will guide future purchasing.
For another option: have you considered a socket style knife?
They're a proven design that's in use around the world for a reason, granted less so in the western/industrialized/commercialized nations, but for daily tasks and those similar to survival they do nicely and have even more function if the maker put/followed the traditional thoughts of purpose into it.
I would definitely like a follow up vid where you try out some of your favorite blades and field testing them ie batoning carving fire making etc
I'd love to be able to wander around the KnifeCentre warehouse when I fancy buying a new knife. (I'd have gone with the Joker myself.)
Everything is a tradeoff. More size and weight for chopping means it is tougher to use for smaller tasks. The ESEE 6 for me is a nice weight/size, though other steel options would be nice like 3V. I grabbed the SRK 3V when I saw it on sale somewhere for $99. Crazy deal!
Fallkniven A1 looks so amazing, that I can't even consider any other knife.
My pick out of what he had on the table.
To be honest I am never going to need a big knife for survival in the UK, however I do have a few large choppers I have used while camping for splitting kindling etc that would be because for some people, collecting blades is what you do. In reality what I use most these days is a small axe on my allotment and in my woodland for hedgelaying, limbing and snedding, and chopping logs and branches, I could actually do most of what those big knives do with my vintage Elwell slasher as it can cut deep it's like an old English equivalent of a parang, but mainly it is a tool for brush clearance not a woodsman's constant companion and comes out when needed like my scythe and hedge trimmer. For actual survival I think a small axe, a folding saw and a puuko will do you. Can't think of much such a combination can't do cos in reality you are not going to be felling mighty redwoods are you? Another thing too I suppose, I am into the aesthetics of knives, I like hand crafted handles made from natural materials and leather sheaths, generally that I have made myself because that is all part of the fun, there is nothing more satisfying than using a knife with a handle that has been crafted just for you and feels absolutely right.
Can’t wait to see the use video!!!
Welcome to the Bk9 club!!! Youll absolutely love it. Theyre a fkn beast
I definitely want to see more of this seth. Do another one with an EDC folder or a heavy duty/hard use folder
Great selection of fixed blades. I only have a few fixed blades in my collection and thinking about something in this category and size range. The Joker is the one I would choose.
Love that LT. I have a small LT Wright in AEB-L. Best edge I have in my collection. All the chatter about particle metal but it's edge is wonderfully smooth and sharp! It's also the knife people gravitate to when they visit my house.
I want to see you take it to the field, add a basic gear, then survive with it, build traps, build a shelter, cook, butcher small game, all the things survivalists have to do. then come back and tell us how it went.
I imagine Seth lives in Virginia, not Alaska. 🤣
@@gamallsdokkalfs7253 its a "survival knife" those are survival tasks. I want to know how that knife fulfills the tasks required of a true survival knife.
You're asking for Bushcraft skills, not for good tools for bushcrafting.
@@logangodofcandy No I am asking for survival skills if you were in a plane crash and had to survive for an unknown amount of time till rescue came.
I went with a TOPS Kukri. super pleased.
Good choice….I have the BK 9, but my actual knife that rides in my backpack is a BK7, modified, micarta scales, no traction coating, and a kydex sheath! It does all I need it to do!
I sort of agree with you. Either the Joker, the ESEE 6 or the BK9 is all you need. Anything more expensive would only be justified by a super steel in my opinion.
Great idea mate. Take a few knives for a field test. Make it an on-going episodes. Cheers Seth & Thomas from Australia.
Try the Terava Skrama 240 or the Terava Jaakaripuuko 140. Awesome Finnish knives for a good price with amazing leather sheaths that all come with danglers. The Skrama 240 runs for $115 with leather sheath. The Jaakaripuuko 140 for $89. Amazing knives. If I had not gotten already some knives I’d get both of them. They are an amazing combo. Terava is also a really cool surplus shop.
That Fallkniven has a laminated steel blade which also adds to the cost. Hard in the core and softer on the sleeve.
I have both the Joker Nomad and the SRK in 3V and can't complain about either. The nice thing about the Joker is the convex edge and pretty good steel, whereas the SRK is lightweight and has 3V.
LOL I read the thumbnail as One Knife to rule the Mall
Great video. I learned a lot! The SRK is my choice as a field knife and served me well over multiple deployments carried on my person. For “survival” my choice is an original, milspec, MOD-issue Kukri. It is just a super choice for all the survival functions cited in the video. I had one available for multiple deployments and often had it on a pack or in a vehicle rather than on my person. That knife mix worked well in a wide range of situations. My EDC is a Benchmade Barrage. It took a few years to come to these choices, but this is what worked for me in the military and law enforcement..
It also helps that you have a 20% employee discount. Heck, you might even get it for free for doing the "commercial".
I do enjoy knives as a journey.... so this is really nice content to see. Love it!
On your journey, do yourself a favour and make a turn towards Japan. That's where the Cold Steel Trail Master (San Mai III version) is hand-crafted in a full convex grind blade. It'll knock your socks off!
“One knife to rule the mall.”
There is no one knife that can fulfill everything you need to do to survive in the wild. You need a large knife good edge retention and toughness. My choice is the ESEE Junglas. Next on the list is a medium-sized knife 5 to 7 inches in length with fine edge on good steel (14C28N, NITRO-V, S45VN, or even D2) with neutral handle shape. Finally a reliable folder in a steel that holds an edge and is corrosion resistant. I would want Micarta on all these, the good kind that's a little fuzzy when dry. What ever kind of steel you choose make sure that the heat treatment is correct for the type you choose. Good luck Seth.
Anyone who actually knows what they're doing would be perfectly fine with a simple Morakniv & folding saw
yah, me too. My 21cm blade traditional Leuku, fulltang 12cm blade from EKA, and a Fällkniven folder with good edge retention in CoS steel. Then, if you want to chop down trees and logs, you use an axe and saw.
@@MB-jg4tr
Don't think he mentioned saws
@@timtitus2532 he didn't, I'm just saying a small knife and a saw is way better than one big knife in a true survival situation.
@@MB-jg4tr true, very true.
Personally, I prefer a convexed edge or a scandi for outdoor knives. It's just easier for me to hand sharpen in the field. I'm going to take a look at Joker.
I have the Khukri House DBAD Preacher for this. That said a Khukri is IMHO the do it all survival tool.
I feel you with your start. Beacuse I also started with folding knifes and after a lot of them i started to appreciate fixed blades, cuz of the hard use and to just go crazy with them in the woods and for their "bulletproof" characteristics. Hf with your new knife. And get to know it good :)
There was an article in Soldier of Fortune magazine back in the 1980’s that talked about the best knife for combat and survival. They ended up recommending a three knife combo; a large knife with an eight to twelve inch blade, a smaller knife with a four to seven inch blade, and a folding knife with a serrated blade.
My favorite three knife combo is my TOPS Armageddon, my TOPS Brakimo, and my Spyderco Mariner with serrated blade and stainless steel handle.
For a one-knife “survival” knife, I would probably go with my TOPS Tahoma Field Knife, or even my TOPS Outpost Command.
…you may be noticing a theme in my selections 😉
If you want a esee that will chop and do everything the 6will do, try the esee 5
Great video - sharing your expert thoughts when buying a knife. It doesn't mean it will always transferable, but gives us inspiration.
Simple knives like the Schrade have good basic specs and are great for modding. They can do what 90% of us actually need - not always what we want.
No Condor on the table?
I have the Becker BK 9 and the Fallkniven A1. Either one would have my full confidence, but the Fallkniven is my One knife that stays in my pack.
A tip for the BK 9: Take an hour and stipple the scales with the smallest tip on a wood burner, and then sand the stipples down to your preference. I have done a few different patterns. It really improves the grip on all the Becker knives.
Yes, I'd love to see you learning new skills and putting your new knife to the test, please!
I would definitely like to see those videos too!
Could you expand on your concern? That rubber handles would be fatiguing. I would think it would be exactly the opposite. Since they are a softer material than something like G10 or aluminum I would think they would help protect against fatigue maybe your experiences different
After using my CS Trail Master, I also don't understand that either, Krefcenz The other day I used my TM to do some extensive clearing out around a tree in the yard with tons of chopping/cutting and with far less fatigue than my previous wood-handled chopper. It was a sheer delight to use.
I'll answer for Seth here. Sometimes, counterintuitively, rubber handles can have TOO MUCH grip, which can actually cause blistering under some heavy or prolonged uses. -DCA
@@knifecenter Hi DCA,
Yeah, I've seen you mention this before. Well I'm 75 years old, and do very little work with my hands, so they are pretty soft. I recently tackled two linden trees to cut away the thick growth around the bowl, where there were hundreds of suckers proliferating. We had a very wet winter and we sort of left them a bit late so they were quite tall, over a metre). I chopped them all out and in most cases cut them in half to fit the leaf bag. I also cut out some brambles into the bargain.
After all that there was not even the slightest hint of a hot spot or blister formation. I was not even wearing gloves. My trusty TM came through with flying colours! I'm not sure what one would do that would require harder/longer work but this is possibly a guideline from which to start. For example, if I was doing hard chopping thick branches into shorter bits it might cause injury. But then I wouldn't be using a knife, but a saw! Right tool for the job.
Thanks DC for taking the trouble to respond. Appreciated, as always. Cheers mate.
This young gentleman did a wonderful job on this video. He’s very well spoken and quite knowledgeable 👍🏻🇺🇸
Well done 👏 The Earth Skills would probably be my first pick, I've never seen it before but damn that looks capable. If I was going boring I would definitely prefer the A1 or the SRK.
Hello 👋 my knife specialist, thank you for this informative video. I like the SRK and the Becker BK9. Stay safe. 😊
Excellent video. Love LTW, the Genesis for Bushcrafting is one of my favorites, Esee, great waranty and Tops are solid- (the BOB) and the Joker line is so good and affordable.
BK9 is a terrific knife. It has stood the test of time, and is still on that table for a reason. The same is true of the Esee 6. The Esee, paired up with an axe and saw, would serve you well in the woods when you start doing survival type tasks. Good luck with your adventures.
As soon as you said L.T. Wright, you said enough. Didn’t matter which model. You get what you pay for, and with that company you can absolutely trust. Period.
I have their overland machete, and it's honestly been one of the most well rounded tools I've ever owned
I just found out his shop is 10 to 15 minutes from my house.........all these years I didn't know.
@@williamwaters6803 I have 2 knives from LT Wright: Jessmuk-C and Outback 3V. Both are as good as any knives I have, including my Randalls, Busses, and Chris Reeves. I'd count on either.
@@The4cp Nice! Are you going to take any of his knife making classes? If I lived that close, I'd take the classes every chance I had.
@@The4cp lucky
Great video dude!! Very informative and I think this is the best video you've done so far!! Definitely can tell the passion you have for this topic. I really appreciate and enjoyed your presentation!! ✌️
Something tells me he already knew what he planned to buy before recording this video
I trust to my GERBER Mark II. - It served me well in South Africa and serving in Australia !
Good job young man. Really enjoyed the video.
With the Lt Wright Gen 3 in your hand, it almost looks like you’re holding a Roman gladius. 😆
I’d love to see more of this type of video from you Seth. A follow up video would be cool after you’ve put a purchased knife through its paces or at least carrot for a bit. Keep up the good work Seth and Thomas. Always nice to see you guys on camera.
That leather sheath for the Tops Earth Skills, is a traditional mountain man/fur trapper knife sheath style from the mid 1800's. They work great. I have two Green River knives that live in sheaths like that, and they are easy to carry. Oh, and I now use a Khukuri with a 8 inch 5160 High Carbon Spring steel blade. That was made in Kathmandu, Nepal. I think it could out chop any knife you've shown. And it is very easy to sharpen. Once you learn how.
You should do a separate video on folding survival knives. Granted they may not be as strong as a Fix blade but with a strong lock, they could offer some big advantages in portability over Fix plate. Oh yes. Big payoff. I can think of one or two cold steels that would be in there
Folding survival knife?? Is that like a morbidly obese supermodel? 😉
BK9 is a good choice. I even like the cheap sheaths with the little pouch. Mine is over 20 years old.
Bk9 is the most impractical choice. 99% of people in 99% of survival scenarios would be better served by a smaller, lighter, more nimble knife with better edge retention.
@@brawndothethirstmutilator9848 How do you define 99% of survival scenarios? We might have different definitions based on our activities out in the woods.
@@brawndothethirstmutilator9848 Thanks for clarifying. What knife would you pick?
@AnomadAlaska, a survival situation = “Oh, sh** something unexpectedly went wrong in the bush and I have to self rescue.”
The definition is pretty self explanatory from the words “survival situation”.
@AnomadAlaska, Sure no problem. I’ve never handled most of these knives, and I wouldn’t pick a knife to trust my life on without knowing it through experience. The only three I’ve used are the BK9, SRK (in 3v steel), and the Fallkniven. Out of those three I would choose the Fallkniven to trust my life to in an emergency survival situation. I would also hope that I was with the rest of my kit that would be selected for the environment I’m in so that I don’t have to self rescue with nothing but my belt knife.
You should have looked at the Condor Primitive Bush Knife. I haven't touched one yet, but it looks useful and is stainless steel. It might not have the edge retention of carbon steels but 420HC is damn tough and that's what you really want in a survival knife.
Just ordered that joker nomad 6.5!
Can't wait to get hands on it.
14C28N is the sweet spot for a survival knife steel.
Joker is phenomenal. They are offering a great deal of value for the money. My favorites they offer are the Canadian and the Nessmuk S. My only concern with them is the lack of a decent hilt or finger guard. The handles are very comfortable, but they lack the protection I get from L.T. Wright’s GNS, Next Gen, or Gen 3.
your analytical selection is what I am 100% onboard... there so many awesome knives from the table but the Ka-Bar is the tried and true survival for chopping, doing some bushcraft task, and survival task... awesome selection!!!
mine is the Tops Brown Traker, and has been for years. have had several vertions of it, but love the cutting power and feel in my hand.
I have the Cold Steel knives dropped forged, both the Hunter and Survivalist. Have used them both for chopping, splitting and general use. Not sure I could break either of there. Had a ‘survival’ knife from another manufacturer that broke in half splitting wood once. Prefer to carry an axe or tomahawk for basic splitting now. A little extra weight but I don’t have to worry about my main fixed blade anymore. Great video. A few temptations but satisfied (for now).
If someone forgot to mention to you or show you, you do not chop or split wood with a knife. That is the job of an ax or a hatchet. Oh and by the way, you also don’t drive nails with a screwdriver that’s the job of a hammer. 😊
Pretty sure you completely missed the point of this video.
@@mauganra2589
Keep chopping. We got a witness!
Good knife. BK7 was my camp knife from the days when they were made by Camillus. The stock handle is ergonomically perfect IMHO. My advice is a couple of wraps with grip tape around the handle. In wet hands it's like a wet bar of soap. I ended up making my own handle slabs from green canvas Micarta. Now they're offered and worth the extra purchase.
For chopping and hard use I would go for a kukri. For Survival/camping I carry a medium sized Kukri and a small camp knife like a BK-16.
There is a reason you don't see Kukris in chopping competitions...
@@CadillacDriver Ok, enjoy your "chopping competitions" Ill stick to my kukri for actual outdoor tasks.
Wtf are you talking about? I don't partake in them 🤣
It seems to me you have no idea what chopping is, and it's clearly apparent you don't know what Seth is talking about. He wants chopping power - for wood.
And as I already stated, the Kukri is NOT what you want for that task. What did you think he meant when he said he wants "chopping power"?
GREAT VIDEO!
However, you may want to consider a tomahawk (or a boy's ax) paired with a 4-inch fixed-blade knife, vs a "survival" (read: big) knife. Remember: you got to your "survival situation" in a vehicle or riding or walking with an animal(s). A 2nd (or 3rd) tool is reasonable to have.
It's wise to use a pair of walking sticks--for their mechanical and other advantages--if you're INTENSIONALLY without a vehicle or animal(s). You still have a net advantage if you use them and carry a 2nd (or 3rd) tool.
Very good video presentation, interesting, informative, entertaining, done with appropriate brevity and yet not too sparse.
Love this style of video. Great way to talk about knives from your perspective and your purchasing thought process.
@knifecenter I got a 6” Ex Ghurka House Kukri from Kult of Athena for $50 and sanded the rough edges down myself. I just spent two weeks in Yellowstone using it to process store bought bundles down to small tinder and powder. Cant have unhoused fires up there. It was/is dextrous and insanely sharp and durable.
I like your overview of the fix blades an your pick. Hope you have another video on fix blades.
I've never understood this concept. If you can take the time to belt up a knife you can take the time to belt up a hatchet and a smaller "knifier" knife that's better suited for carving, drilling, cutting, and processing. Otherwise the best survival knife is the one that's on you. I doubt many folks have an edc bk9
It's one tool to rule them all.