How NOT 2 Establish Big Walls
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ก.ย. 2024
- I got to join Sam Boyce on the tail end of his project. He was establishing a big wall that is accessible by aid climbers and free climbers. The gneiss had few cracks but plenty of features to climb so the route required a substantial amount of bolts. The location is not public yet but will be when the route is detailed, a map made and a few attempts of a 5.13 send. He did this project with Kyle Willis and Lani Chapko.
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Today I was explaining what I do for a living to my doctor and he pulled his phone out and recommended your channel to me. Ohh the joy I had knowing I found the doctor I know I can trust. The man has trustworthy taste. I was grinning ear to ear when he said your name. Brother.. you've made it for sure.
I loooove this insight into route development. Keep this kind of content coming, please!
Fantastic conversation, I really appreciate the insight into the work and cost of development. Sam's guide service is on my short list of guides I'd like to climb with (and have a beer or 4).
Awesome video! I'm just here to give a shoutout to Lani who is a fantastic guide and my climbing inspiration. She's taught me how to multipitch and guided me around the walls of Index and Exit 38 and I just love her to bits. Highly recommend Lani!
continue on with the videos
BRB gonna go grid bolt the nose
You know, technically I don't see anything in the Yosemite rules about poking holes with a thermal lance...
@@kd5nrhfr I love going up those walls with my drill even small mortors to put holes in the rock then BASE jump out
@@kd5nrh😂 I’d love to see you strike the lance that high up. It would take some huge balls.
This route appears to be in "Northern Nebraska" . We did a few routes in "Southern Nebraska" back in the '80s (easier, no bolts).
You mean Index or farther south.
@@cmonkey525 South Omaha
Hi, they say triple fisherman knot for dyneema holds well, if you going to test dyneema ropes next time, please try it.
Nebraska huh... I don't remember seeing any mountains but maybe I'll have to go back and look harder.
They're lying... This is clearly central Kansas!
Idk what it was about this, but it was my favorite video in ahile
Why does setting a route does more damage to the rope? (rocks smashing the rope below?)
yes
This is a great episode! I would like to see more Nebraska footage!
Rock on Ricky Schroder. Cool guy, always liked his stuff.
I'm glad I'm not the only one thinking he looked like Ricky Schroder. 😂
You should break test the sheets end and double sheets end knots. Ive been seeing them be used in more and more rigs.
Looooved this video! So funny and interesting ❤
I have GOT to get out to Nebraska soon!
Sam Boyce love it!!!
I've also had the police (and an ambulance) show up while I was trundling rocks to develop a crag. Mine was in Mexico though.
Wadi Rum is wild,
I'm living in Israel and never went there.
Need to fix it ASAP
Very cool!
Where you at in Nebraska?
I’m asking because my harness has some large creases in it. There isn’t any fraying or anything like that and I’m not to worried about it but I thought I’d ask.
Do you know what I should watch for to make sure my harness doesn’t fail.
I'm like 90% certain I what the "volcanic choss tower" that he's speaking of is and it sounds like a sweet project
Where is this in relation to the new Stamati/Nathan/Michal route?
Friggin TH-cam not giving me the notification!
are there any easy big walls? like 5.9 or less, maybe a couple harder pitches?
Depends how you define big wall but in Yosemite there’s a route called royal arches, 5.7, 22 pitches. Can be freed at 10a I think?
@@chrisgodsey3513 we freed royal arches a few years ago. Super fun, pretty easy climbing overall. Don't think there was anything that came close to 10a on it. The hike out in the dark was the hardest part. Mostly because 2 of our headlamps broke out of the four people so we were short roping down with phones in hand. Also the 2 less experienced climbers with us were tired and cranky by that point.
Woop WOoop
please use hearing protection when using that drill!
Hearing protection and face protection. Breathing in rock dust will mess up your lungs long term, and we want guys like this having long careers given how much they help us out.
Yup, earplugs or noise cancelling earbuds will do the trick. 0 weight. Slight discomfort, significant lifelong family/relationship annoyance reduced.
Honestly the Dewalt cordless SDS rotary hammers are super quiet, especially using less than ⅝" diameter bits... If it was a corded 14amp 2"+ rated SDS MAX rotary/demo hammer I would feel differently 😉 But I've used all shapes, sizes, brands, and power sources of SDS/SDS-Max/demo hammers and this is quiter than the "gold standard" small corded 1" rated Bosch or even the tiny Milwaukee M12 SDS rotary hammer, same for basically everything else power tool related... Hilti's 18/22v cordless non chipping SDS rotary hammer is close 2nd for quietest in my experience unless im forgetting something... I mean PPE is important, but sometimes communication in a dynamic environment is more important, atleast when using these particular rotary hammers are being used outdoors and are often quieter than the music playing inside of many people's noise canceling ear buds 🙄. Same for concerts, and many other common power tools/activities that people don't usually consider loud enough to cause hearing damage... It's all about exposure over time when it comes to hearing loss, so if he was using even this quiet SDS hammer continuously for 8hrs a day 5 days per week I would be in total agreement with hearing protection being a necessity! But that's not his use case. As far as rock/silica dust, it is probably the more "dangerous" issue (remember to put all of this in the current context of use BTW 😄) unless mother nature is providing a breeze, helping with dust extraction, but that same dust is inhaled clearing loose rock and scrubbing routes, so a breeze can be good enough sometimes, once again being outdoors on an exposed face changes the standard hard rules in my opinion... I'm all for PPE, but every situation and personal circumstance is different... Mandatory safety glasses are a great idea, and have prevented countless injuries. But situations also exist where the anti fog coating eventually can't keep up and you fall into an open pit, impale a flammable pressure vessel with a forklift because you misjudged the distance because of impared vision/depth perception, or missed some minor detail that causes catastrophic injury or death, like getting caught on a cable or chain and having a limb ripped off on an oil rig, or ending up in the path of heavy equipment or falling debris, then your the guy in next years training video... Sometimes you've gotta be safe about being safe 😉 (This probably will not be a well liked response 😂) 🤷♂️👍
Nebraskans have left the chat
Such a GOAT 🐐
Everyone who lives in Washington knows what peak you are on just by what lake is shown below. You clearly showed Mt. Baring in the background. The only Q is which tower. Judging by the view from the route... it is rather obvious which tower.
Are there any big walls that are below 5.11 grade throughout?
Yes but you're not ready
Royal Arches
Depends what you call big wall. So, the answer is maybe.
Hahah I’ve got an idea of where that is 😏🤫
If you live in Nebraska it's not the hardest to figure out...even as a SE Nebraskan I was able to figure it out. None the less, loose lips sink ships or something so keep up the good work man!
Montana wor washington?
Close, Nebraska.
Washington
Haha I call unobtanium nodrillium
Suppose you wanted to do this in a state that wasn't Nebraska. What are some reasons you might not want to do it in a state like, say, Washington?
Day 7 test silent partner for TRS
I wish the cerro torre bolts never got chopped :(