THANK YOU...for sharing. Very nice and good ideas. I use n-scale cork without tearing it apart on sidings and in yards I just fasten to the sub-board works out nicely for me and it truly looks like EL trackage from the seventy's. Gary
When I had to trans from the main line rod bed to road bed that had no cork, I used a complete piece of flex track (code 83) and used a long straight edge to have the tack going on a even grade. I then used plastic to shim up the needed ties so the track was secure. Then I used "play sand" (from a child's sand box) to fill in under the tack and the used "wet" water and glue (just like gluing ballast) and then the ballast. This is solid as concrete and the play sand is almost free ( stole 1 cup from my great grand son't play box). Could have used a shorter piece of track, but I wanted a very gradual incline. Inspiration was from actual track just South of Monon Indiana. A shorter incline wouldn't need the shims as much.
Oh come on! Was that one take?? It looks so easy. I’m glad the magnet worked. You sell the idea well and now I’m considering it. How did you cover the magnet hole? Just pour the ballast over and hope for the best? Didn’t it fall on to the magnet? Great job Harold!
Thanks for the comment. No, several takes were required including some that failed completely. It's just the magic of video editing. I did not cover the magnet hole because the magnet's top was at sub-roadbed level. Just covered it with the ballast. Yes, the ballast fell over the magnet but the ballast is not magnetic and the ballast being there did not seem to interfere with the magnet's function. To get the delayed uncoupling to work, you'll have to be particularly careful about coupler height and coupler swing. During this experience, I discovered that some of my rolling stock does not meet this standard...Harold
nicely done and nicely explained
Thanks for watching. Hope the video helped you in some way...Harold
THANK YOU...for sharing. Very nice and good ideas. I use n-scale cork without tearing it apart on sidings and in yards I just fasten to the sub-board works out nicely for me and it truly looks like EL trackage from the seventy's. Gary
Thanks for your comment. Never tried N scale cork but I have other locations where it might come in handy...Harold
When I had to trans from the main line rod bed to road bed that had no cork, I used a complete piece of flex track (code 83) and used a long straight edge to have the tack going on a even grade. I then used plastic to shim up the needed ties so the track was secure. Then I used "play sand" (from a child's sand box) to fill in under the tack and the used "wet" water and glue (just like gluing ballast) and then the ballast. This is solid as concrete and the play sand is almost free ( stole 1 cup from my great grand son't play box). Could have used a shorter piece of track, but I wanted a very gradual incline. Inspiration was from actual track just South of Monon Indiana. A shorter incline wouldn't need the shims as much.
Reference my other comments about not using wood shims. Plastic shims appear to be a good idea in your method...Harold
Oh come on! Was that one take?? It looks so easy. I’m glad the magnet worked. You sell the idea well and now I’m considering it. How did you cover the magnet hole? Just pour the ballast over and hope for the best? Didn’t it fall on to the magnet? Great job Harold!
Thanks for the comment. No, several takes were required including some that failed completely. It's just the magic of video editing. I did not cover the magnet hole because the magnet's top was at sub-roadbed level. Just covered it with the ballast. Yes, the ballast fell over the magnet but the ballast is not magnetic and the ballast being there did not seem to interfere with the magnet's function. To get the delayed uncoupling to work, you'll have to be particularly careful about coupler height and coupler swing. During this experience, I discovered that some of my rolling stock does not meet this standard...Harold