After almost a year, and with the garage finally all cleared out I start putting some quality time back into the Celica. www.jspfab.com / doctoredgarage
Hello there. Nice to see that you are back at it again. I also like the parts that JSP, and others supply to support the Beams engine. Can I make a suggestion to your heater delete. My suggestion is to run the hard metal line and tie into the rear heater plate. This way it circulate the coolant and will not cause a hot spot at the back of the engine. Thank you for showing us the install and the modifications done to get it to fit. Keep up the great Videos. Cant wait for the next part of the project.
Shoutout to Excessive for making such a terribly designed spacer 🤣 If you’re making a spacer designed for a specific car and motor swap, do it right. Not everybody has access to a lathe, so this just sucks to see. But glad you were able to remedy it!
10:55. Haha, I searched for months for an AW11 rack. I found one used on eBay for $400, but then the T3 quick ratio came back in stock for about that same price so I grabbed one too.
Awesome job! I'm really glad I watched this because I was looking at the BEAMS swap for my RA20 1971 and noticed the price spike in the engines, but didn't realize so many other things to do. I think I'm going to try to get 10~20 more HP out of the setup I have now with a Speeduino engine control system, then maybe go with some boost because that really looks like a lot more cost that I want to spend. I know the BEAMS is a great engine, but they've really spiked up the price, and you still need the engine management system, adapters, etc...
Nice work. I modified the crap out of the Excessive crossmember for my 2RZ swap. Basically cut it apart and welded it back together. The mount points and such aside, I did not like the way it hung out over the frame rail and did not tuck in nicely to the lip on the rail. Putting shims also lowers the control mounting position from stock. I think it would be better sold as a Kit that you can then weld together.
@@Bye401K the predrilled holes also put the control arm forward of center tower. I put had to make a new hole to get it centered. In any case it can only be so perfect
Glad to see things moving along. I'm Jealous of the amount of room you have with the later model 1st gen in the engine bay. The BEAMS in my RA21 is basically touching my firewall, and barely squeezes in at the front (Still not sure I actually have room to remove the oil filter yet LOL). I have had to do several modifications to Xcessive cross member and mounting brackets just to get it to drop in. Looks like things went much smoother in the RA29. Keep the vids coming.
Awesome updates! Hopefully you don't need to mess with the rear main again but if so, a size-matched PVC pipe and block of wood works well as a makeshift install tool to press it in exactly evenly. Looking forward to seeing more on the rear coolant pipe delete. I'm planning to delete mine as well. Are you going to run an oil filter relocation kit off the block (and if so, what's the plan for the stock oil filter location?), or just loop the oil right back in?
For the coolant ports off the back of the water pump they are actually machined through. Meaning you can cap off whatever one you'd like. I forget to mention that. As far as the oil relocation kit, Ive been doing. a lotta research on this. You'll have to stay tuned!
33:08 Your Xcessive front xmember, I am guessing it's the S3 unless I failed to notice during the video? I am just curious as to what the rack position is relative to the main crossbeam. S4 has the rack 1" more forward then S3.
I have the S3 and it sits a little more forward in the bay than I'd like. Strange thing is though its fits pretty where it should in the trans tunnel. Although both the Xcessive K member as well as the trans mount did not work together. I had to modify both quite a bit so they would work together. Frustrating to say the least.
37:37 Man, I'm surprised how much cutting was needed to clear the shifter. I got the same shifter, so I guess I'll be chopping that out the same. It looks pretty good. 38:50 That's weird that the engine is so far forward. I think that Speed Academy used Xcessive X-member and engine mounts and didn't have that space like that... maybe the JSP mounts are different? "Toyota Celica Classic Project Car S1 E11" at 13:10
39:00 It looks like you have about a half inch of rearward adjustment in the aluminum mounts? If you want to move the engine back, it looks like your best bet would be modifying the mounts for the engine mounts on the cross member to allow the engine to sit further back. The engine sitting that far forward would annoy me too, and if it's over the centerline of the front wheels, could affect the F-R weight bias some.
@@elgenerz Speed Academy was using Xcessive's older parts. Most are revised by now. Not that that means much. I also just hate when the mounts aren't perfectly in line. It bothers me and looks off. The trans mount was maxed out also. I did end up moving the engine back another 1.5in or so though. I re-drilled and slotted the K-member / trans mount. It was a lotta work to mod the trans mount. Its better than nothing I guess. I thought about re-welding the K-member but its all powder coated and nice nice, and all in all I would only really gain another inch. Not worth all the fuss. Time will tell once all the suspension is in. 110% go with JSP if your doing it. Leave the Xcessive stuff alone. IMO
‼️Hopefully I can save someone else from ordering the wrong Steering Rack here. ‼️ The AW11 rack does NOT fit the Celica. The inner tie rods are much (nearly 2x) longer than the AE86. Techno Toy Tuning offers racks for both cars, so make sure you get the AE86 one if you’re using one of these in a Celica. I ordered the wrong one bc of this video 😢 Should have double checked! These racks are often out of stock, so instead of returning it for the correct one I’ll have to buy AE86 tie rods and swap them.
@@Bye401KIt IS an AW11 steering rack, but the tie rod ends are different for the AE86. I think the confusion comes from how they have them listed on their site vs what they communicated to you over the phone. The “AE86 Steering Rack” as they have it listed is just an AW11 rack with AE86 inner tie rod ends. I should have just called them like you did instead of ordering off their site. Did you have any issues with the passenger side bushing going over the taper on the steering rack? I just got my crossmember from excessive and the mounts for the steering rack are about half an inch too close together. Half the bushing fits on the narrow section of the rack and half goes up into the wider part. I waited four weeks for this thing and might have to send it back 😞
I don't understand your painting billet parts because they're too much while simultaneously shaving the engine bay by riveting sheetmetal on top of other sheet metal just for appearances, seems a bit silly to care about billet being too blingy but then also putting in all the work to make the engine bay all smooth.
Good to see you back! Was waiting for an update
Hello there. Nice to see that you are back at it again. I also like the parts that JSP, and others supply to support the Beams engine. Can I make a suggestion to your heater delete. My suggestion is to run the hard metal line and tie into the rear heater plate. This way it circulate the coolant and will not cause a hot spot at the back of the engine. Thank you for showing us the install and the modifications done to get it to fit. Keep up the great Videos. Cant wait for the next part of the project.
Shoutout to Excessive for making such a terribly designed spacer 🤣 If you’re making a spacer designed for a specific car and motor swap, do it right. Not everybody has access to a lathe, so this just sucks to see. But glad you were able to remedy it!
10:55. Haha, I searched for months for an AW11 rack. I found one used on eBay for $400, but then the T3 quick ratio came back in stock for about that same price so I grabbed one too.
Awesome job! I'm really glad I watched this because I was looking at the BEAMS swap for my RA20 1971 and noticed the price spike in the engines, but didn't realize so many other things to do. I think I'm going to try to get 10~20 more HP out of the setup I have now with a Speeduino engine control system, then maybe go with some boost because that really looks like a lot more cost that I want to spend.
I know the BEAMS is a great engine, but they've really spiked up the price, and you still need the engine management system, adapters, etc...
Nice work. I modified the crap out of the Excessive crossmember for my 2RZ swap. Basically cut it apart and welded it back together. The mount points and such aside, I did not like the way it hung out over the frame rail and did not tuck in nicely to the lip on the rail. Putting shims also lowers the control mounting position from stock. I think it would be better sold as a Kit that you can then weld together.
Agreed. The spacers are there for hood clearance as well as to keep everything level. Time will tell if they will effect the control arms.
@@Bye401K the predrilled holes also put the control arm forward of center tower. I put had to make a new hole to get it centered. In any case it can only be so perfect
Great updates!
Glad to see things moving along. I'm Jealous of the amount of room you have with the later model 1st gen in the engine bay. The BEAMS in my RA21 is basically touching my firewall, and barely squeezes in at the front (Still not sure I actually have room to remove the oil filter yet LOL). I have had to do several modifications to Xcessive cross member and mounting brackets just to get it to drop in. Looks like things went much smoother in the RA29. Keep the vids coming.
Thanks man !
Saludos desde Panama !!!
What steering rack bushings did you use for this
Yup👍🔥
Awesome updates! Hopefully you don't need to mess with the rear main again but if so, a size-matched PVC pipe and block of wood works well as a makeshift install tool to press it in exactly evenly. Looking forward to seeing more on the rear coolant pipe delete. I'm planning to delete mine as well. Are you going to run an oil filter relocation kit off the block (and if so, what's the plan for the stock oil filter location?), or just loop the oil right back in?
For the coolant ports off the back of the water pump they are actually machined through. Meaning you can cap off whatever one you'd like. I forget to mention that.
As far as the oil relocation kit, Ive been doing. a lotta research on this. You'll have to stay tuned!
Could the cross member spacers be avoided if you clipped and welded up the lip of frame rail?
I don believe so. I think there there to level out the engine as well as to account for the hood closing.
33:08 Your Xcessive front xmember, I am guessing it's the S3 unless I failed to notice during the video?
I am just curious as to what the rack position is relative to the main crossbeam. S4 has the rack 1" more forward then S3.
I have the S3 and it sits a little more forward in the bay than I'd like. Strange thing is though its fits pretty where it should in the trans tunnel. Although both the Xcessive K member as well as the trans mount did not work together. I had to modify both quite a bit so they would work together. Frustrating to say the least.
Did you have to cut away any material from the oil pan housing to clear the rack and pinion?
Not at all.
Thanks I have the same set up for my 73 celica. My 80 celica beams swap I used the Crossmember off an AE86 and had to cut.
did you forgot the steel plate between engine and flywheel?
Almost!. lol.
37:37 Man, I'm surprised how much cutting was needed to clear the shifter. I got the same shifter, so I guess I'll be chopping that out the same. It looks pretty good.
38:50 That's weird that the engine is so far forward. I think that Speed Academy used Xcessive X-member and engine mounts and didn't have that space like that... maybe the JSP mounts are different? "Toyota Celica Classic Project Car S1 E11" at 13:10
39:00 It looks like you have about a half inch of rearward adjustment in the aluminum mounts? If you want to move the engine back, it looks like your best bet would be modifying the mounts for the engine mounts on the cross member to allow the engine to sit further back. The engine sitting that far forward would annoy me too, and if it's over the centerline of the front wheels, could affect the F-R weight bias some.
@@elgenerz Speed Academy was using Xcessive's older parts. Most are revised by now. Not that that means much.
I also just hate when the mounts aren't perfectly in line. It bothers me and looks off. The trans mount was maxed out also. I did end up moving the engine back another 1.5in or so though. I re-drilled and slotted the K-member / trans mount. It was a lotta work to mod the trans mount. Its better than nothing I guess. I thought about re-welding the K-member but its all powder coated and nice nice, and all in all I would only really gain another inch. Not worth all the fuss. Time will tell once all the suspension is in.
110% go with JSP if your doing it. Leave the Xcessive stuff alone. IMO
@@Bye401K agreed
Have you seen JSP’s low profile oil pan for the BEAMS that they’re prototyping?
Nm, I just saw your comment in John R’s video :-D
@@elgenerz Just watched it tonight. John is the man. Attention to detail 100%
‼️Hopefully I can save someone else from ordering the wrong Steering Rack here. ‼️
The AW11 rack does NOT fit the Celica. The inner tie rods are much (nearly 2x) longer than the AE86. Techno Toy Tuning offers racks for both cars, so make sure you get the AE86 one if you’re using one of these in a Celica. I ordered the wrong one bc of this video 😢 Should have double checked! These racks are often out of stock, so instead of returning it for the correct one I’ll have to buy AE86 tie rods and swap them.
Had no problems with the AW11 man. I talked to them on the phone and they knew exactly what I needed for the build.
@@Bye401KIt IS an AW11 steering rack, but the tie rod ends are different for the AE86. I think the confusion comes from how they have them listed on their site vs what they communicated to you over the phone. The “AE86 Steering Rack” as they have it listed is just an AW11 rack with AE86 inner tie rod ends. I should have just called them like you did instead of ordering off their site.
Did you have any issues with the passenger side bushing going over the taper on the steering rack? I just got my crossmember from excessive and the mounts for the steering rack are about half an inch too close together. Half the bushing fits on the narrow section of the rack and half goes up into the wider part. I waited four weeks for this thing and might have to send it back 😞
@@Bye401KAlso, I’m not blaming you for my mistake man, sorry if it came across that way. Really appreciate the videos, they’ve been immensely helpful!
I don't understand your painting billet parts because they're too much while simultaneously shaving the engine bay by riveting sheetmetal on top of other sheet metal just for appearances, seems a bit silly to care about billet being too blingy but then also putting in all the work to make the engine bay all smooth.