I have a Willys 1948 Cj2A with a Solex carb which was fitted in America. From cold the jeep starts first time but if it gets up to working temperature it's as you described first turn of the key and it won't start but will on the second turn. Once the jeep is started it runs great with good mpg, I have recently fitted new points, plugs and plug leads and even a new distributor (Joes Motor Pool) so the only thing I can think of is the fuel is vaporising while the jeep is hot and standing. The fuel pipe on these jeeps does run a bit close to the exhaust pipe.
Same hot start issue on my 48 though I had been able to reduce the number of hot cranks a bit with different adjustments. But you’re trading one thing for another. All my steel / cast iron old motors do exactly the same … they all have the carb on top of a heat source. Our Jeeps carb is in a ridiculously hot spot … over / directly on the exhaust manifold. I’d imagine they did this to help with icing as it was designed to start in a time when weather didn’t dictate your daily commute. When it was time to go, you go. On my fuel injected airplane, cold starts are a breeze. Hot starts take a lot of skill and finesse. About three to five minutes after shut down you can hear the fuel boiling off and hissing from the stainless fuel lines and injectors that are routed directly over the cylinders. Shut down and restart straight away, no issues. Wait ten to twenty minutes … now you’re in the hot zone when it’s going to blow vapor and balls of fire. You have to clear the vapor from all the lines before it will run. Just a more dramatic version of what’s happening in our little Jeeps. My little 48 runs best when I fill it with 100LL … 100 octane, super high lead content fuel. (Likely not available outside of the states.) Want to see your little beauty smile … belly it up to a tank at your local air field and fill it with a few hundred pints of Avgas. Cheers!
Was that an original French Solex? I have an original Solex and it worked flawlessly hot or cold, sitting or restarting immediately. I’m about to go through a JMP WO this week for a friend who had multiple problems. I loaned him an original 539S for the time being. Be careful with some of the Sealed Tested parts. I had a bad fuel pump right out of the box and a friend showed me a set of Seal Tested points that failed not long after they were installed- plastic insulator holding the point arm melted and the arm was flimsy. As for new we say Never Ever Worked. New means nothing! Nice video thanks for sharing. We here in New York use brand parts sourced from our mom and pop parts suppliers. We have old part numbers and order them by number not application. Cheers!
No its not an original its certainly a brand new made one. I have a seal tested pump. Luckily its been ok so far. Nearly 6 years its been on! It is a shame that a lot of the new parts are terrible.
I also have a knock off Solex I bought for a core. It didn’t work. I found all of the jets were under sized as compared to my original. I resized the jets now I have another working spare. These are for my M201. BTW Seal Tested parts were originally manufactured here on Long Island NY a long time ago. This new company bought the name and logo and are trying living off of reputation of the old company.
I think the part of the game is that you sometimes have to disassemble parts for cleaning and adjustment, even if the parts are new. I have to do that on mine four Jeeps and two Dodges. The positive thing about it, is that you learn how it works.
Yes. That is the really odd thing though. I had had that carb apart at least 4 times. That residue was not inside it from the start. That is why I think maybe it came out of the internals.
Blonde took her Willys jeep to a mechanic because it was running rough, next day she went back and asked the mechanic is it ok? Mechanic replied just shit in the carburettor, oh, she replied, how often do i have to do that? 😆❤️🇬🇧
Love jeeps! Wish I had enough space to have one. One of the greatest vehicles ever made. What’s it like to drive? Clutch/ gearbox etc? I have driven an old Land Rover
@@chrispig7748 They are a lot of fun to drive. You have to just show them respect or you are going to end up in trouble. The gears are not to bad as they are not total crash boxes. As long as they are kept maintained you can have a lot of fun with them.
I thought that but the fuel that you ignite from is already in the manifold waiting to go in and on the carter carb it fired straight up. So I follow the logic but I dont see how it would mkae any difference when the first fuel is already sat in the inlet manifold? 🤔 I will have a look for a spacer like that. The carter does have a big thick diffuser under it which would I guess seperate the carb from the heat a bit so you might be right.
I have a Willys 1948 Cj2A with a Solex carb which was fitted in America.
From cold the jeep starts first time but if it gets up to working temperature it's as you described first turn of the key and it won't start but will on the second turn.
Once the jeep is started it runs great with good mpg, I have recently fitted new points, plugs and plug leads and even a new distributor (Joes Motor Pool) so the only thing I can think of is the fuel is vaporising while the jeep is hot and standing.
The fuel pipe on these jeeps does run a bit close to the exhaust pipe.
I am convinced that is the problem with these solex carbs! I keep seeing other Jeeps that are the same which have them fitted.
Same hot start issue on my 48 though I had been able to reduce the number of hot cranks a bit with different adjustments. But you’re trading one thing for another. All my steel / cast iron old motors do exactly the same … they all have the carb on top of a heat source. Our Jeeps carb is in a ridiculously hot spot … over / directly on the exhaust manifold. I’d imagine they did this to help with icing as it was designed to start in a time when weather didn’t dictate your daily commute. When it was time to go, you go.
On my fuel injected airplane, cold starts are a breeze. Hot starts take a lot of skill and finesse. About three to five minutes after shut down you can hear the fuel boiling off and hissing from the stainless fuel lines and injectors that are routed directly over the cylinders. Shut down and restart straight away, no issues. Wait ten to twenty minutes … now you’re in the hot zone when it’s going to blow vapor and balls of fire. You have to clear the vapor from all the lines before it will run. Just a more dramatic version of what’s happening in our little Jeeps.
My little 48 runs best when I fill it with 100LL … 100 octane, super high lead content fuel. (Likely not available outside of the states.) Want to see your little beauty smile … belly it up to a tank at your local air field and fill it with a few hundred pints of Avgas. Cheers!
@@KiloLima we are on the same page here. I found it odd that the carter carb dint do it but both solexes I have used do.
I can't afford a jeep, but it's interesting to hear. Sounds like a pain in the ass.
haha. All old vehicles are like that buddy. You have to be prepared for that to be a part of it.
@@Truffle1947 adventure is not far away from old vehicles😅
Certainly isn't!
Was that an original French Solex? I have an original Solex and it worked flawlessly hot or cold, sitting or restarting immediately. I’m about to go through a JMP WO this week for a friend who had multiple problems. I loaned him an original 539S for the time being. Be careful with some of the Sealed Tested parts. I had a bad fuel pump right out of the box and a friend showed me a set of Seal Tested points that failed not long after they were installed- plastic insulator holding the point arm melted and the arm was flimsy. As for new we say Never Ever Worked. New means nothing! Nice video thanks for sharing. We here in New York use brand parts sourced from our mom and pop parts suppliers. We have old part numbers and order them by number not application. Cheers!
No its not an original its certainly a brand new made one.
I have a seal tested pump. Luckily its been ok so far. Nearly 6 years its been on!
It is a shame that a lot of the new parts are terrible.
I also have a knock off Solex I bought for a core. It didn’t work. I found all of the jets were under sized as compared to my original. I resized the jets now I have another working spare. These are for my M201.
BTW Seal Tested parts were originally manufactured here on Long Island NY a long time ago. This new company bought the name and logo and are trying living off of reputation of the old company.
good to know. thanks
I think the part of the game is that you sometimes have to disassemble parts for cleaning and adjustment, even if the parts are new. I have to do that on mine four Jeeps and two Dodges. The positive thing about it, is that you learn how it works.
Yes. That is the really odd thing though. I had had that carb apart at least 4 times. That residue was not inside it from the start. That is why I think maybe it came out of the internals.
Blonde took her Willys jeep to a mechanic because it was running rough, next day she went back and asked the mechanic is it ok? Mechanic replied just shit in the carburettor, oh, she replied, how often do i have to do that? 😆❤️🇬🇧
Love jeeps! Wish I had enough space to have one. One of the greatest vehicles ever made. What’s it like to drive? Clutch/ gearbox etc? I have driven an old Land Rover
@@chrispig7748 They are a lot of fun to drive. You have to just show them respect or you are going to end up in trouble.
The gears are not to bad as they are not total crash boxes. As long as they are kept maintained you can have a lot of fun with them.
@@Truffle1947 cheers!
Heat from engine/exhaust creep into carb, and hot fuel wont ignite as good, try a non-metallic spacer between carb and intake manifold???
I thought that but the fuel that you ignite from is already in the manifold waiting to go in and on the carter carb it fired straight up.
So I follow the logic but I dont see how it would mkae any difference when the first fuel is already sat in the inlet manifold? 🤔
I will have a look for a spacer like that. The carter does have a big thick diffuser under it which would I guess seperate the carb from the heat a bit so you might be right.
I bought a new jmp ignition switch that promptly fell apart,
Bloody hell 😞