@@ArtFiendz Nah. A simple drop weight will do you unless you plan on going into business. And contrary to popular belief, a two point mounting system works just fine. I prefer Klippermate for the metal clamps. The plastic clamps from Gamma work also, you just have to allow for a few lbs. of slippage.
The Obi wan of stringing. Loved it, thanks, very helpful. I've just bought my first stringing machine and am learning as much as I can before I try my first one!
What an excellent video. Richard, we string in a very similar way, heartening to know. I have followed your journey through the tournaments for many years, since we met up in Southfields a LONG time ago, I think a young Queen Victoria was on the throne .. Your enthusiasm, presentation skills and vast experience behind your explanations are priceless. Any new or experienced stringer will benefit from copying your demo. Professionalism and integrity are evident from start to finish. Good luck with your journey, perhaps we can chat further re working closer with your new GRSA, Liam
Hi Liam, Thank you so much for your kind words. As I also know that you are an accomplished stringer and teacher yourself, your kind words mean a lot to me. I remember our dinner in the great Indian restaurant in Southfields, which, as you say was many moons ago. Take care and stay healthy 🙂
This is the best stringing instruction I've ever seen - thank you! I've been stringing for about 15 years and I've learned quite a few new things in this video. The starting knot for the crosses is a game changer. No longer do my knots creep their way into the grommet hole! It still takes me about an hour to complete 1 racket, but that's because I'm quite fussy and hate messing up the crosses if I don't concentrate. Thanks again for your clear and easy to follow instruction :)
Hyper G Soft 16L @ 55 in my Blade 104 V8s. Gives me plenty of everything and is the perfect balance for the softer frame. Won't switch unless they stop making it.
Dear Mr.Parnell, In 7:03: "We also gonna try make the tension head bite as soon as possible, so we get a higher string bed stiffness. So it starts pulling straight away and it's tensioning a shorter piece of string, so that you get a tighter string bed stiffness". From my calculation, tensioning a shorter piece of string will not make the string stiffness higher. Do you mind explain more about what you mean? Thank you a lot!
Hi, when I talk about string bed stiffness, I am talking about the "real" tension (not reference tension) that is contained in the strung racket. I don't mean that the string will be stiffer. 25 Kgs feels different when it is on a 10 cm piece of string as opposed to a 12 cm piece. In the same way, if a string is curved while waiting to be tensioned, you will be tensioning a longer piece of string and you will have a lower DT reading (Dynamic Tension). In the same way that when you double pull a string, taking out the friction from the grommets, the string bed will always be looser due to the length of the string being doubled.
@@richardparnellknot Thank you for your reply. I doubled checked the definition of DT so I don't misunderstand you - units of how many pounds of force it takes to deflect the string bed 1 inch at the sweet spot. Here is my steps to figure out that the DT will not be changed by the length of string you pull while string: I assume that DT of string bed will not be changed if the DT of a single string would not be changed by the length of string be pulled. If this assumption is right, then I only need to prove that DT of a single string will not be changed by the length of string be pulled while stringing. To prove this, we need to know if the force required to deflect both strings (one is longer during pulling, the other one is shorter) after stringing are the same. The formula to calculate this force is: P = 48*E*I/(L^3), where as P is the force we wanna know, E is the Young's modulus of the string which is the same in both cases, L is the length of string inside the racket which is also the same (although we pulled different length of racket, lengths of string remaining in the racket are the same), I is the Second Moment of Inertia for the cross-sectional area which we don't know if they are the same. While all other numbers in the right side of the equation are the same, we can prove that P would be the same if I are the same in both cases. I will be the same if the cross-sectional area are the same. So now we need to prove that cross sectional area are the same. Since the force we used on both string are the same, and the the cross-sectional area are the same before pulling. Stresses we created in both string's are the same, since longitudinal strain = stress/E, so longitudinal strain are the same. From the equation to calculate Poisson's ratio (Poisson's ration are the same for the same material regardless of their dimension), lateral strain = -Poisson's ration*longitudinal strain. So the Lateral strain are the same. Lateral strain = change in diameter/original diameter. Since lateral strain and original diameter are the same, the change in diameter are the same. so the diameter of both strings are the same. So the cross-sectional area are the same. So the force need to pull both string by one inch are the same. Thus DT are the same. Let me know if there is anything I didn't express myself well. Thank you for reading my question. Looking forward to your reply. Kind regards.
@@kimjoseph5668 Please perform 2 simple experiments. 1) string a racket leaving all strings curved without straightening them and then straighten them at the end. 2) string a racket where you place the machine clamps and inch away from the frame, as opposed to clamping as close to the frame as possible. You will notice that on both occasions, you will attain a lower DT reading
@@kimjoseph5668 In more layman's terms, when you tension a string without pushing up the "curve," there is some friction preventing you to get the full tension from the tension head. When you push up the cross string during tensioning, you remove this friction and allows you to get the most tension possible. Of course, there's still friction from the interweaving of the crosses into the mains, so you will never get the same tension as you would with a main string. What Mr. Parnell said above about experimenting with two racquets -- one without pushing up the cross string during tensioning, and one with the cross string pushed up during tensioning -- is true. I have tried it myself and tested the stringbed stiffness on a Babolat RDC machine. Since I did this roughly 11 years ago, the numbers are fuzzy in my memory, but I recall a 10 point stiffness difference -- with the curved string racquet being much lower in stiffness.
GRSA INTERNATIONAL is the most modern and dynamic with certification levels that take you from beginner through to tour ready, you can't go far wrong joining their certification program.
Hi😊 Richard panell. I Have TE-3300 machine. I wish there was a video on how to maintain the machine. And I can‘t find a manual or description of the machine anywhere on the internet. Wilson is easy to find.
Hi Richard, just want to know why you choose different pulling speed for multifilament and natural gut. They are all soft strings and quite stretchable. As recommended in the users manual of the string machine which I just bought, more stretchable string should use a higher speed, while polyester is matched with low speed. Could you give some explanation on this. Thank you.
@@b2m59 Hi, I would ask your brand why they think that natural gut and multifilaments, which are elastic strings would require a faster speed. By pulling slowly you are allowing the molecules in the string to settle in a less aggressive way, for this reason we recommend the slower speed. My information came from the laboratory of a premium brand and as such I advocate the slower speed. Someone else might not agree with me and advocate the opposite. Sometimes different people have different opinions on the same subject. 🙂
Afternoon Mr.Parnell - much respect 🫡 I do have a question, when you use your starting clamp on the first cross, I noticed you pulled tension on this first cross also ! Can you just pull tension on the second cross and finish with the pull on the first cross on tie off at the end of the string job, as you are pulling the first cross twice! Does it affect tension in anyway ! Many thanks.. Brendan
Good afternoon Brendan, a good question and one I see a lot. If you were to double pull the first two crosses, you would not have "perfect" tension on either of the first two crosses. Even if you went back at the end to re-pull tension on the first cross before tying off, you would have a lower tension on those 2 top strings with the subsequent possibility of that lower tension "bleeding" into the 3rd cross.
Hi Mr. Parnell. If i only have one starting clamp ( not two like in the video ) is it still good to tie off the first cross before the last one when i have tensioned all of the cross excpet the last one or two? This way i could free the starting clamp to tie off the last cross. I hope i explained it well. Thank you Mr Parnell
Hi Federico, There is no hard and fast rule concerning when to take the stareting clamp off. Some like to take it off as soon as possible, I prefer to wait until the end and do the two knots together. However, in your case, if you only have one starting clamp then you could take it off once you've tensioned the 3rd cross and have that side machine clamp free to come back up and remove the starting clamp. You could also buy a second starting clamp 😉
Great video! Would this method apply to crank and drop weight machines as well? I know it would take a little extra work to add tension on the last main strings with a drop weight for example, or to even the tension on the first 2 mains on a crank. But yea, just wondering if you would still do it the same way.
However much we like to tie main to main and cross to cross, in the example you have mentioned, no harm would come as the multifilament is a much softer string than the mono. 🙂👍
Hey Richard. For the mains, why do you tension 3 on each side before moving to the other side? Why not tension 1 and then move to the other side and then just keep alternating?
Hi, I string 3 ahead on each side for speed and on the 2 outer mains I tension them one by one, alternating the side. If you would like to tension them one by one alternating the side, then that is great, but during a busy tournament we often don't have the spare time due to quantities of rackets in a minimum time.
Ok, so i aim for wimbledon stiring job quality, but what I realize, is that the first two mains will never be exactly the same with this starting method (which is the one I use also). why is that? so the first main you pull with the anker clamp and starting clamp being on the string next to it, just as it is with all the remaining pulls. However, the pull on the second main string has a shorter string to pull on because the anker clamp is also on the second main string. Therefore the second main will always be "harder" than the first main. How to solve that?
A slight difference in tension can be adjusted by adding knot tension on the central main and the pitch of the two central mains will even out. Wimbledon has been won on a number of occasions by people using the above method with no loss of precision. But a good observation and question
Hi Richard, in cases of gut main / poly cross setup and the racquet does not have enough bigger holes on crosses to tie on crosses (poly), do you "enlarge" some grommets (ie. with a drill etc) to make it work? thanks :)
Hi John, Yes, we always try and tie off mains on mains and crosses on crosses. To achieve this on certain frames, you have to prepare them by enlarging a grommet before starting to string the racket. A drill is not needed as it would be too aggressive, however, an awl, some lubricant (lip balm or vaseline) and a scrap piece of string. Place the scrap string in the grommet to be enlarged and then insert a lubricated awl to "widen" the grommet. If you don't put the scrap string in, the grommet widens but also lengthens, which is noticeable.
When he pulls the parnell knot the small gap will cost in a small tension loss . you can also see it in the video, notice how the clamp goes back when he releases tension . other then that its a great video .
Thanks for your input, for this reason 4 Kgs are added for the tie off string to make up for the loss of tension. If you notice, I hold the tag end of the knot while releasing the clamp base so that the knot doesn't move into the grommet and ruin it. The movement of the clamp is why the base is always released before the clamp so that the string surfacing or outer coating doesn't get damaged.
When using a starting knot, we always recommend using a starting clamp instead 😉, there is no need to use knot tension (4 Kgs) as the full tension is on the string and nothing will be lost when tying the knot as the knot is already done.
Hi mate, I have a manual crank machine and would like to try natural gut, I’ve heard about the need to pre stretch but noticed you didn’t, however I imagine the ‘slow’ pull function acts as the pre stretch on your machine? Therefore how would I go about this on my crank machine? Cheers…That Head machine is absolutely beautiful👍
Hi, "She" is a beauty isn't "She" 🤔. Concerning natural and pre-stretching, there is no hard and fast rule that natural gut has to be prestretched, in fact one of the largest makers of gut recommends not to. Pre-stretching gut makes it easier to handle and if the stringer is not used to stringing gut it can help, however, this just means that it is helping the stringer. Pre-stretching natural gut will make the gut more stable to initial tension loss but also take out some of what makes gut so special, elasticity. If you decide to pre-stretch gut, uncoil the gut, pass it around a well fixed object and pull on both ends to take the coil memory out. Then just string as normal, if you don't string a lot of gut and fancy trying it in a full bed, I would use 4 knots (Parnell knots of course 😉) to make the handling slightly easier. Hope this helps
I'm looking at a Tourna 650 for our school team. They're spending too much on stringing. This way, we'll buy a reel. Very informative. Thank you for the lesson and insight!
You are most welcome. You will find that the HEAD TE3600 is a tournament tested machine, just finished at IW last week and handled the 3000 + rackets with ease. Please consider a machine as an investment and the HEAD machine ticks all the boxes. If you need any stringing instruction please don't hesitate in reaching out as there are multiple options available, from online courses to personalised master classes. Stringing is an art 🙂 enjoy
Dear Mr Parnell, Thank you for the amazing video. I noticed that the loops of the two main knots are tied from different sides, is that matter to be consistency and only make the loop left to right or right to left?
Hi @samstone7779 , no I normally start weaving the crosses at the cross immediately below the outside main. Sometimes its the 3rd and sometimes it is the 2nd, but always the first cross below the outside main.
@@samstone7779 If you start on cross 1, you will then have to weave 6 mts of string through for cross number 2. If you start at cross 2 then you only have to weave and pass 50 cms of string through cross 1 and the string that is then used for cross 3 is unused. If you are stringing with natural gut then it means that the gut isn't "worked" until cross 3
@@richardparnellknot yeah this makes sense! My real question is why start below the outside main which means sonetimes the 2nd and sonetimes the 3rd? I‘m just trying to understand :) why not always start with the 2nd or always start with the 3rd?
@@samstone7779 This is my way of being consistent. You could always start on the 2nd or the 3rd and it would also be good, there is no reason one way is better than the other, just personal choice.. I use the first below outside main because then I know I can tell whether I start under the string or over. I always start under the main so that when I come out the other end of the stringbed the string is above and one less movement to introducing it into the grommet. If it comes out below, because you have started over the outside main then it is more difficult to introduce into the grommet. My reasoning, but have seen plenty of excellent stringers use their own logic on this.
For the extra 20%, do you make this universal across all string types and mains/crosses? I noticed it looked like you added 20% for the first cross but not the last throat cross. I had been using 10% from what i had seen others and machines prescribe. I'm curious as to your thoughts whether this works best as a percentage, flat amount, etc. to get the most accurate to reference tension.
Yes 20% if the machine works in percentages, however, it should always be at least 4 Kgs. I put knot tension (+20%) on both the last cross string and the first. As it depends on the machine you have, either one works 🙂
Dear Mr. Parnell, I have the impression, that the 20% has been added to both sides of mains but only to one side of crosses - it has not been added at the bottom of the racquet when creating the first out of two cross knots. If I am right, I would like to ask why? Btw, it is a pleasure to watch this video.
Hi Adam, Thanks for your kind words. The bottom cross should definitely have the extra 20% on. I have just checked the video and I have added the 20% but my other hand/arm was blocking what my other hand was doing, however, you can hear the beep as I add the 20%. Best regards, Richard
can you do a video how to string a racket with only 1 clamp? I have an old Babolat VS electronical stringing machine. problem is to alternate stringing the mains. regards
Hi, I can't do a video about stringing with a mono clamp machine as HEAD does not have such a machine. However, it is not difficult to correctly string a racket with a mono clamp machine. You will need at least one starting clamp and use the starting clamp against the inside of the frame to hold the tension while you use the machine clamp on the opposite side while stringing symmetrically from the center outwards. Good luck !! 🙂
thanks for the answer. it is an old babolat vs starring e. I have the problem on the first pulls of the main string that the automatic electromagnetic relaese opens to hard under the clamp. there it takes the racket toward the right side with them. I noticed that when I loose tension on the cross string that I gave tension before and tension it again the problem is not there anymore. did this a few times its a fact. maybe prestretch will help. thanks @@richardparnellknot
it is an old babolat starring vs e. my problem is on the cross by pulling first time the electromagnetic release under the clamp opens too roughly. this is not the case when I lose the tension again and pull a second time. did this a few times it is a fact. maybe prestetching the string will help.@@richardparnellknot
If you pull the first 2 mains together at 60lbs (30 lbs) each. U elliminate the need for a starting clamp and avoid any slippage. Then go back and pull each string to whatever tension u are stringing
The two center mains are pulled together at normal tension to perfectly place the clamp and also to make sure that the clamp is perfectly adjusted to the gauge of the sting, which is different and thinner under tension. The starting clamp behind the machine clamp is just for safety and could save a set of multi or natural gut from having the surfacing shredded by slipping through the clamp jaws. Many stringers don't back up the machine clamp, I prefer to have that added security. 🙂
@@richardparnellknot i dont see anyone doing the double pull at the beginning. From what ive seen the double pull at the beginning alleviates the risk of slippage. Nearly everyone ive seen tension a single string against the clamp and the starter
Ive said this on many forums and on many youtube that do the 3 + 6 on the mains. Litterally triggers my asymetric OCD. When I have tested the sound of the strings doing it this way, there is a clear difference in sound. Whats the scientific evidence of this?
Thanks for commenting. 3 + 6 and then + 3 to even up the amount of tensioned mains, doesn't give me a different pitch. Once I have tensioned the center 12 mains then I do them 1 by 1 as is shown in the video.
Dear Mr. Parnell, Good day to you and thank you for the video... When you mentioned adding 20% tension to the last string, I am wondering if it is necessary to be that much. If I string the racket at 50lbs, it means for the last string will be 60lbs, no? What if the 20% additional tension exceeded the recommended tension?
You should add 20% to the last string to compensate for the loss of tension when tying the knot. It will not void the warranty of the racket, the reason is that you are only adding tension to the last string, not the entire string on the racket.
The mains should be at reference tension and will give a different sound/pitch depending on length, but I would not "tune" them to create a uniform sound.
Happily your prediction will not come true any time soon as the "feel" factor is ever present in stringing. Each stringer strings slightly differently, the Asian factories have thousands of people stringing and the machine that can string a racket has already been designed. However, the machine needs to be programmed for each different racket, and the racket be pre-weaved. As stringing is an art and the SBS is governed by the machine and the stringer, AI and robotics might manage to get the job done, but never at a level needed for the serious player. Just my thoughts..... 🤔
@@hrjohannesburg5478 Only initial tension loss and pre-stretching gut also reduces the elasticity which is what makes it so "comfortable" and easy on the arm. I only pre-stretch if a player requests it, otherwise I string all natural gut as it comes. The tension loss on natural gut is about 5% and it then stabilises quickly so I get where you are coming from but would only recommend pre-stretching gut if requested 🙂
Cannot condone the practice of leaving a starting clamp in place for the WHOLE cross process - if that clamp slips/fails for ANY reason, ALL the crosses are dead. I would only rely on the starting clamp to get a pull on both ends of the first cross, then tie it off, and continue with the rest of the crosses.
Thanks for reaching out. Wilson will remove the clamp after 3 crosses due to the possibility of a starting clamp being knocked off in a busy tour event stringing room. I have been stringing tour events and Grans Slam events for the past 30 years and have never had a clamp knocked off. My clamps are Parnell Tech and don't fail. If you have a professional quality clamp it won't fail. I leave the clamp until the end so that I finish both knots in one go at the end of the string job. Best regards
@@richardparnellknot As a professional stringing, the problem of slipping when using the starting clamp will be very unlikely. Maybe he should use a better quality starting clamp and improve his skills even more.
Hey Richard fantastic video. Would you say that is the most effective / most widely used method to start the mains that you've noticed on the ATP Tour?
Hi, Yes, this is probably the most used starting method, however, the Yusuki method can also be used and is good on protecting the clamps as less strain is placed on them. With the Yusuki, you have to use a starting block to protect the string. 🙂
One of the finest tennis racket stringing tutorials on TH-cam! Thank you for sharing your expertise!
Thank you for your kind words, I'm glad you enjoyed it 🙂
Now I just need a $7000 re stringing machine
@@ArtFiendz Nah. A simple drop weight will do you unless you plan on going into business. And contrary to popular belief, a two point mounting system works just fine. I prefer Klippermate for the metal clamps. The plastic clamps from Gamma work also, you just have to allow for a few lbs. of slippage.
The Obi wan of stringing. Loved it, thanks, very helpful. I've just bought my first stringing machine and am learning as much as I can before I try my first one!
What an excellent video. Richard, we string in a very similar way, heartening to know. I have followed your journey through the tournaments for many years, since we met up in Southfields a LONG time ago, I think a young Queen Victoria was on the throne .. Your enthusiasm, presentation skills and vast experience behind your explanations are priceless. Any new or experienced stringer will benefit from copying your demo. Professionalism and integrity are evident from start to finish. Good luck with your journey, perhaps we can chat further re working closer with your new GRSA, Liam
Hi Liam,
Thank you so much for your kind words. As I also know that you are an accomplished stringer and teacher yourself, your kind words mean a lot to me. I remember our dinner in the great Indian restaurant in Southfields, which, as you say was many moons ago. Take care and stay healthy 🙂
Funny- this guy is famous in the stringing world. It’s like in college when your professor also wrote the book😂
at least a titter... 😉
Thank you for showing us how to string monofilament and natural gut 😊 good video to watch and learn from the grand master itself.
Lots of info for starters and stringers pros
Thank you
You are most welcome 🙂
THE BEST STRINGING VIDEO EVER SEEN
This is the best stringing instruction I've ever seen - thank you! I've been stringing for about 15 years and I've learned quite a few new things in this video. The starting knot for the crosses is a game changer. No longer do my knots creep their way into the grommet hole! It still takes me about an hour to complete 1 racket, but that's because I'm quite fussy and hate messing up the crosses if I don't concentrate. Thanks again for your clear and easy to follow instruction :)
Thank you for your kind words 😊
Thank you very much!! 🙏🙏🙏 great explanation and really good and clean video 👍👍👍
Thank you for your kind words 🙂
Fascinating and amazing! So happy you shared this!
Thank you 😊
Hyper G Soft 16L @ 55 in my Blade 104 V8s. Gives me plenty of everything and is the perfect balance for the softer frame. Won't switch unless they stop making it.
Dear Mr.Parnell,
In 7:03: "We also gonna try make the tension head bite as soon as possible, so we get a higher string bed stiffness. So it starts pulling straight away and it's tensioning a shorter piece of string, so that you get a tighter string bed stiffness".
From my calculation, tensioning a shorter piece of string will not make the string stiffness higher. Do you mind explain more about what you mean?
Thank you a lot!
Hi, when I talk about string bed stiffness, I am talking about the "real" tension (not reference tension) that is contained in the strung racket. I don't mean that the string will be stiffer.
25 Kgs feels different when it is on a 10 cm piece of string as opposed to a 12 cm piece. In the same way, if a string is curved while waiting to be tensioned, you will be tensioning a longer piece of string and you will have a lower DT reading (Dynamic Tension).
In the same way that when you double pull a string, taking out the friction from the grommets, the string bed will always be looser due to the length of the string being doubled.
@@richardparnellknot
Thank you for your reply.
I doubled checked the definition of DT so I don't misunderstand you - units of how many pounds of force it takes to deflect the string bed 1 inch at the sweet spot.
Here is my steps to figure out that the DT will not be changed by the length of string you pull while string:
I assume that DT of string bed will not be changed if the DT of a single string would not be changed by the length of string be pulled. If this assumption is right, then I only need to prove that DT of a single string will not be changed by the length of string be pulled while stringing.
To prove this, we need to know if the force required to deflect both strings (one is longer during pulling, the other one is shorter) after stringing are the same. The formula to calculate this force is: P = 48*E*I/(L^3), where as P is the force we wanna know, E is the Young's modulus of the string which is the same in both cases, L is the length of string inside the racket which is also the same (although we pulled different length of racket, lengths of string remaining in the racket are the same), I is the Second Moment of Inertia for the cross-sectional area which we don't know if they are the same. While all other numbers in the right side of the equation are the same, we can prove that P would be the same if I are the same in both cases.
I will be the same if the cross-sectional area are the same. So now we need to prove that cross sectional area are the same.
Since the force we used on both string are the same, and the the cross-sectional area are the same before pulling. Stresses we created in both string's are the same, since longitudinal strain = stress/E, so longitudinal strain are the same. From the equation to calculate Poisson's ratio (Poisson's ration are the same for the same material regardless of their dimension), lateral strain = -Poisson's ration*longitudinal strain. So the Lateral strain are the same.
Lateral strain = change in diameter/original diameter. Since lateral strain and original diameter are the same, the change in diameter are the same. so the diameter of both strings are the same. So the cross-sectional area are the same.
So the force need to pull both string by one inch are the same. Thus DT are the same.
Let me know if there is anything I didn't express myself well.
Thank you for reading my question.
Looking forward to your reply.
Kind regards.
@@kimjoseph5668 Please perform 2 simple experiments.
1) string a racket leaving all strings curved without straightening them and then straighten them at the end.
2) string a racket where you place the machine clamps and inch away from the frame, as opposed to clamping as close to the frame as possible.
You will notice that on both occasions, you will attain a lower DT reading
@@kimjoseph5668 In more layman's terms, when you tension a string without pushing up the "curve," there is some friction preventing you to get the full tension from the tension head. When you push up the cross string during tensioning, you remove this friction and allows you to get the most tension possible. Of course, there's still friction from the interweaving of the crosses into the mains, so you will never get the same tension as you would with a main string.
What Mr. Parnell said above about experimenting with two racquets -- one without pushing up the cross string during tensioning, and one with the cross string pushed up during tensioning -- is true. I have tried it myself and tested the stringbed stiffness on a Babolat RDC machine. Since I did this roughly 11 years ago, the numbers are fuzzy in my memory, but I recall a 10 point stiffness difference -- with the curved string racquet being much lower in stiffness.
GOAT 🙏🏼
Great video.
Thank you for your kind words 🙂
Great video, what governing body would you use to get certified/qualified under.
GRSA INTERNATIONAL is the most modern and dynamic with certification levels that take you from beginner through to tour ready, you can't go far wrong joining their certification program.
Hi😊 Richard panell. I Have TE-3300 machine. I wish there was a video on how to maintain the machine. And I can‘t find a manual or description of the machine anywhere on the internet. Wilson is easy to find.
I bet if you reached out to head directly they’d help you out. Got to be a pdf they can send?
@@cheefussmith9380Thank you! I will be do
Hi Richard, just want to know why you choose different pulling speed for multifilament and natural gut. They are all soft strings and quite stretchable. As recommended in the users manual of the string machine which I just bought, more stretchable string should use a higher speed, while polyester is matched with low speed. Could you give some explanation on this. Thank you.
Hi, which machine did you just buy?
@@richardparnellknot Leung X7 which is made in Taiwan.
@@b2m59 Hi, I would ask your brand why they think that natural gut and multifilaments, which are elastic strings would require a faster speed. By pulling slowly you are allowing the molecules in the string to settle in a less aggressive way, for this reason we recommend the slower speed. My information came from the laboratory of a premium brand and as such I advocate the slower speed. Someone else might not agree with me and advocate the opposite. Sometimes different people have different opinions on the same subject. 🙂
Afternoon Mr.Parnell - much respect 🫡 I do have a question, when you use your starting clamp on the first cross, I noticed you pulled tension on this first cross also ! Can you just pull tension on the second cross and finish with the pull on the first cross on tie off at the end of the string job, as you are pulling the first cross twice! Does it affect tension in anyway ! Many thanks.. Brendan
Good afternoon Brendan, a good question and one I see a lot. If you were to double pull the first two crosses, you would not have "perfect" tension on either of the first two crosses. Even if you went back at the end to re-pull tension on the first cross before tying off, you would have a lower tension on those 2 top strings with the subsequent possibility of that lower tension "bleeding" into the 3rd cross.
Hi Mr. Parnell.
If i only have one starting clamp ( not two like in the video ) is it still good to tie off the first cross before the last one when i have tensioned all of the cross excpet the last one or two? This way i could free the starting clamp to tie off the last cross. I hope i explained it well.
Thank you Mr Parnell
Hi Federico,
There is no hard and fast rule concerning when to take the stareting clamp off. Some like to take it off as soon as possible, I prefer to wait until the end and do the two knots together. However, in your case, if you only have one starting clamp then you could take it off once you've tensioned the 3rd cross and have that side machine clamp free to come back up and remove the starting clamp. You could also buy a second starting clamp 😉
BRAVO
So am i right in saying you pull tension twice on the first cross at the head? Pull once at the start, then pull again when tieing off?
Correct, the second time with the extra knot tension 🙂
Great video! Would this method apply to crank and drop weight machines as well? I know it would take a little extra work to add tension on the last main strings with a drop weight for example, or to even the tension on the first 2 mains on a crank. But yea, just wondering if you would still do it the same way.
Hi @voxcon , yes, I would still use this method on a crank machine (just up the tension by 10%)
What if I use the monofilament string as an anchor string to tie a multifilament string in a hybrid set-up?
However much we like to tie main to main and cross to cross, in the example you have mentioned, no harm would come as the multifilament is a much softer string than the mono. 🙂👍
@@richardparnellknot Thanks a lot! 😃
Hey Richard. For the mains, why do you tension 3 on each side before moving to the other side? Why not tension 1 and then move to the other side and then just keep alternating?
Hi, I string 3 ahead on each side for speed and on the 2 outer mains I tension them one by one, alternating the side. If you would like to tension them one by one alternating the side, then that is great, but during a busy tournament we often don't have the spare time due to quantities of rackets in a minimum time.
Ok, so i aim for wimbledon stiring job quality, but what I realize, is that the first two mains will never be exactly the same with this starting method (which is the one I use also). why is that? so the first main you pull with the anker clamp and starting clamp being on the string next to it, just as it is with all the remaining pulls. However, the pull on the second main string has a shorter string to pull on because the anker clamp is also on the second main string. Therefore the second main will always be "harder" than the first main. How to solve that?
A slight difference in tension can be adjusted by adding knot tension on the central main and the pitch of the two central mains will even out. Wimbledon has been won on a number of occasions by people using the above method with no loss of precision. But a good observation and question
Hi Richard, in cases of gut main / poly cross setup and the racquet does not have enough bigger holes on crosses to tie on crosses (poly), do you "enlarge" some grommets (ie. with a drill etc) to make it work? thanks :)
Hi John,
Yes, we always try and tie off mains on mains and crosses on crosses. To achieve this on certain frames, you have to prepare them by enlarging a grommet before starting to string the racket. A drill is not needed as it would be too aggressive, however, an awl, some lubricant (lip balm or vaseline) and a scrap piece of string. Place the scrap string in the grommet to be enlarged and then insert a lubricated awl to "widen" the grommet. If you don't put the scrap string in, the grommet widens but also lengthens, which is noticeable.
@@richardparnellknot thank you!
When he pulls the parnell knot the small gap will cost in a small tension loss . you can also see it in the video, notice how the clamp goes back when he releases tension . other then that its a great video .
Thanks for your input, for this reason 4 Kgs are added for the tie off string to make up for the loss of tension. If you notice, I hold the tag end of the knot while releasing the clamp base so that the knot doesn't move into the grommet and ruin it. The movement of the clamp is why the base is always released before the clamp so that the string surfacing or outer coating doesn't get damaged.
Is it recommended using knot tension when using a starting knot? In my humble opinion is not necessary. What is your opinion?
When using a starting knot, we always recommend using a starting clamp instead 😉, there is no need to use knot tension (4 Kgs) as the full tension is on the string and nothing will be lost when tying the knot as the knot is already done.
@@richardparnellknot I really appreciate it.
Hi mate, I have a manual crank machine and would like to try natural gut, I’ve heard about the need to pre stretch but noticed you didn’t, however I imagine the ‘slow’ pull function acts as the pre stretch on your machine? Therefore how would I go about this on my crank machine? Cheers…That Head machine is absolutely beautiful👍
Hi, "She" is a beauty isn't "She" 🤔. Concerning natural and pre-stretching, there is no hard and fast rule that natural gut has to be prestretched, in fact one of the largest makers of gut recommends not to. Pre-stretching gut makes it easier to handle and if the stringer is not used to stringing gut it can help, however, this just means that it is helping the stringer. Pre-stretching natural gut will make the gut more stable to initial tension loss but also take out some of what makes gut so special, elasticity. If you decide to pre-stretch gut, uncoil the gut, pass it around a well fixed object and pull on both ends to take the coil memory out. Then just string as normal, if you don't string a lot of gut and fancy trying it in a full bed, I would use 4 knots (Parnell knots of course 😉) to make the handling slightly easier. Hope this helps
@@richardparnellknot much appreciated mate, I will give it a go👌👌cheers
I'm looking at a Tourna 650 for our school team. They're spending too much on stringing. This way, we'll buy a reel. Very informative. Thank you for the lesson and insight!
You are most welcome. You will find that the HEAD TE3600 is a tournament tested machine, just finished at IW last week and handled the 3000 + rackets with ease. Please consider a machine as an investment and the HEAD machine ticks all the boxes. If you need any stringing instruction please don't hesitate in reaching out as there are multiple options available, from online courses to personalised master classes. Stringing is an art 🙂 enjoy
Dear Mr Parnell,
Thank you for the amazing video.
I noticed that the loops of the two main knots are tied from different sides, is that matter to be consistency and only make the loop left to right or right to left?
Thank you for your kind words 😀
Hi Richard
Thank you for this great video! Do you always start weaving the crosses with the third cross string and go back to the 2nd and 1st?
Hi @samstone7779 , no I normally start weaving the crosses at the cross immediately below the outside main. Sometimes its the 3rd and sometimes it is the 2nd, but always the first cross below the outside main.
@@richardparnellknot thank you! Is there a specific reason for doing it this way?
@@samstone7779 If you start on cross 1, you will then have to weave 6 mts of string through for cross number 2. If you start at cross 2 then you only have to weave and pass 50 cms of string through cross 1 and the string that is then used for cross 3 is unused. If you are stringing with natural gut then it means that the gut isn't "worked" until cross 3
@@richardparnellknot yeah this makes sense! My real question is why start below the outside main which means sonetimes the 2nd and sonetimes the 3rd? I‘m just trying to understand :) why not always start with the 2nd or always start with the 3rd?
@@samstone7779 This is my way of being consistent. You could always start on the 2nd or the 3rd and it would also be good, there is no reason one way is better than the other, just personal choice.. I use the first below outside main because then I know I can tell whether I start under the string or over. I always start under the main so that when I come out the other end of the stringbed the string is above and one less movement to introducing it into the grommet. If it comes out below, because you have started over the outside main then it is more difficult to introduce into the grommet. My reasoning, but have seen plenty of excellent stringers use their own logic on this.
For the extra 20%, do you make this universal across all string types and mains/crosses? I noticed it looked like you added 20% for the first cross but not the last throat cross. I had been using 10% from what i had seen others and machines prescribe. I'm curious as to your thoughts whether this works best as a percentage, flat amount, etc. to get the most accurate to reference tension.
Yes 20% if the machine works in percentages, however, it should always be at least 4 Kgs. I put knot tension (+20%) on both the last cross string and the first. As it depends on the machine you have, either one works 🙂
Dear Mr. Parnell,
I have the impression, that the 20% has been added to both sides of mains but only to one side of crosses - it has not been added at the bottom of the racquet when creating the first out of two cross knots. If I am right, I would like to ask why?
Btw, it is a pleasure to watch this video.
Hi Adam, Thanks for your kind words.
The bottom cross should definitely have the extra 20% on. I have just checked the video and I have added the 20% but my other hand/arm was blocking what my other hand was doing, however, you can hear the beep as I add the 20%.
Best regards,
Richard
can you do a video how to string a racket with only 1 clamp? I have an old Babolat VS electronical stringing machine. problem is to alternate stringing the mains. regards
Hi, I can't do a video about stringing with a mono clamp machine as HEAD does not have such a machine. However, it is not difficult to correctly string a racket with a mono clamp machine. You will need at least one starting clamp and use the starting clamp against the inside of the frame to hold the tension while you use the machine clamp on the opposite side while stringing symmetrically from the center outwards.
Good luck !! 🙂
thanks for the answer. it is an old babolat vs starring e. I have the problem on the first pulls of the main string that the automatic electromagnetic relaese opens to hard under the clamp. there it takes the racket toward the right side with them. I noticed that when I loose tension on the cross string that I gave tension before and tension it again the problem is not there anymore. did this a few times its a fact. maybe prestretch will help. thanks
@@richardparnellknot
it is an old babolat starring vs e. my problem is on the cross by pulling first time the electromagnetic release under the clamp opens too roughly. this is not the case when I lose the tension again and pull a second time. did this a few times it is a fact. maybe prestetching the string will help.@@richardparnellknot
and when it opens roughly it takes the racket towards the right side with them.
@@eckateckat3449 Where are you based? There is someone in Switzerland who could probably help you with this and another option in Austria.
If you pull the first 2 mains together at 60lbs (30 lbs) each. U elliminate the need for a starting clamp and avoid any slippage. Then go back and pull each string to whatever tension u are stringing
The two center mains are pulled together at normal tension to perfectly place the clamp and also to make sure that the clamp is perfectly adjusted to the gauge of the sting, which is different and thinner under tension. The starting clamp behind the machine clamp is just for safety and could save a set of multi or natural gut from having the surfacing shredded by slipping through the clamp jaws. Many stringers don't back up the machine clamp, I prefer to have that added security.
🙂
@@richardparnellknot i dont see anyone doing the double pull at the beginning. From what ive seen the double pull at the beginning alleviates the risk of slippage. Nearly everyone ive seen tension a single string against the clamp and the starter
@@richardparnellknot excellent video by the way
Ive said this on many forums and on many youtube that do the 3 + 6 on the mains. Litterally triggers my asymetric OCD. When I have tested the sound of the strings doing it this way, there is a clear difference in sound. Whats the scientific evidence of this?
Thanks for commenting. 3 + 6 and then + 3 to even up the amount of tensioned mains, doesn't give me a different pitch. Once I have tensioned the center 12 mains then I do them 1 by 1 as is shown in the video.
reupload or this a different video?
This is the same video but with the sound issue corrected 🙂
@@richardparnellknot awesome! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and skill :)
Dear Mr. Parnell,
Good day to you and thank you for the video...
When you mentioned adding 20% tension to the last string, I am wondering if it is necessary to be that much. If I string the racket at 50lbs, it means for the last string will be 60lbs, no? What if the 20% additional tension exceeded the recommended tension?
Good day to you, and it is my pleasure to share my knowledge. I hope you found some of it useful 🙂
You should add 20% to the last string to compensate for the loss of tension when tying the knot. It will not void the warranty of the racket, the reason is that you are only adding tension to the last string, not the entire string on the racket.
Am I the only one in the world that tunes the main strings before the crosses go in? if you pluck the strings the
The mains should be at reference tension and will give a different sound/pitch depending on length, but I would not "tune" them to create a uniform sound.
30 years of experience and practice gives the perfect stringing in less than 30 mins (and perhaps earns $300?)
Thanks for interacting with us 😊
I predict, in the not so distant future, AI will do this job and make tennis stringers obsolete.
Happily your prediction will not come true any time soon as the "feel" factor is ever present in stringing. Each stringer strings slightly differently, the Asian factories have thousands of people stringing and the machine that can string a racket has already been designed. However, the machine needs to be programmed for each different racket, and the racket be pre-weaved. As stringing is an art and the SBS is governed by the machine and the stringer, AI and robotics might manage to get the job done, but never at a level needed for the serious player. Just my thoughts..... 🤔
First thing u need to do is stretch the string
Thanks for your input, why do you consider it necessary to stretch the string?
@@richardparnellknot reduces tension loss
@@hrjohannesburg5478 Only initial tension loss and pre-stretching gut also reduces the elasticity which is what makes it so "comfortable" and easy on the arm. I only pre-stretch if a player requests it, otherwise I string all natural gut as it comes. The tension loss on natural gut is about 5% and it then stabilises quickly so I get where you are coming from but would only recommend pre-stretching gut if requested 🙂
まず、ラケットにキズが付く指輪と時計を外しなさい。
講釈はそれから。
お気遣いありがとうございます、
時計がフレームに触れることはありませんし、指輪を外すこともありません。このような形で破損したラケットはありません。
ご意見ありがとうございました。🙂
Cannot condone the practice of leaving a starting clamp in place for the WHOLE cross process - if that clamp slips/fails for ANY reason, ALL the crosses are dead.
I would only rely on the starting clamp to get a pull on both ends of the first cross, then tie it off, and continue with the rest of the crosses.
Thanks for reaching out. Wilson will remove the clamp after 3 crosses due to the possibility of a starting clamp being knocked off in a busy tour event stringing room. I have been stringing tour events and Grans Slam events for the past 30 years and have never had a clamp knocked off. My clamps are Parnell Tech and don't fail. If you have a professional quality clamp it won't fail. I leave the clamp until the end so that I finish both knots in one go at the end of the string job. Best regards
@@richardparnellknot As a professional stringing, the problem of slipping when using the starting clamp will be very unlikely. Maybe he should use a better quality starting clamp and improve his skills even more.
Hey Richard fantastic video. Would you say that is the most effective / most widely used method to start the mains that you've noticed on the ATP Tour?
Hi, Yes, this is probably the most used starting method, however, the Yusuki method can also be used and is good on protecting the clamps as less strain is placed on them. With the Yusuki, you have to use a starting block to protect the string. 🙂
Interesting👍
Thank you for watching