@@TennisTimeWithLong This has happened to Wolfy twice in 13 ½ years of stringing. Had to pull out all the crosses and start over! Just acquired a starting clamp two weeks ago, so this will not happen again. Plus the starting clamp will make it easier to pull the knots…
Interesting 1st tip! Aren't you distorting the hoop shape by tightening 12 and 6? I have a 6 point machine and notice that it only takes a tiny bit of tightening to stretch/distort the hoop when setting 12 and 6.
Me too. I finger-tighten 3-4x, going across like tightening wheel lugs. Then I'm not ever clamping down hard but rather "sneaking" up on it. When I'm done that frame doesn't budge.
Im self taught restringer so made sure to read all the instructions lol and yes you're right, 12 and 6 arent meant to be tight. Just a little over finger tight then tighten the rest so theres no play in the racquet, no more tension than that required.
Id love to see you start reviewing strings in their own videos. Really hard to find videos that break down the pros and cons of each individual string on the market.
Extend the string WITHOUT TOOLS when the end of the string on the last main or cross is too short. Tie a figure eight knot between the end and a 10-20" segment of string that you cut out of the racquet or even the end of the reel from which you cut your new string.. It'll slip a bit until the knot tightens, then it'll hold. This should work with slippery strings like poly (I put a knot under tension by 55# drop weight stringing machine--it held tight through the night)
I have a TF-40 315 with a full bed of Triax string that launches the ball on contact. Can the mains be replaced with gut at 60 lb? What is the best string to prevent launching of the ball?
Does it matter if it's a badminton racket or tennis racket with these hacks and knots? I just bought a stringing machine mainly for badminton. I'm trying to learn.
After a few thousand string jobs, I still learn stuff! Thanks, Harry. I'm still using an Ektelon "C", modified for modern racquets. Yeah, I'm old........
Hi, Thanks for the video! Is there a particular labeling tape that you use to notate the date, type string, and poundage of the string job; that you stick to the racket?
Please tell me about the sticker with the tension recomendations. The sticker on the racket i have says: 16 mains/19 crosses.... Tension recommendation: 21/24 kg or 46/52 lbs Does it mean that I should string the mains with 21 kg and the crosses with 24 kg....????
Can you do a quick follow-on about how tight to make the clamp? Are clamp marks okay on a string? If I don't tighten enough to see marks, then the string slips. Would rather have the clamp marks...
@@PaulWolfe1 It doesn't matter, if you leave marks on the strings, you've crushed them and they will be more likely to break. There's a knob for adjusting the clamping force for a reason.
If u measured the mains that way.. Would u be short sometimes depending on your machine. Because of the distance of the pulling head from the racquet and type of machine. On a drop weight requires u to loop the string around the head then lock it... So I always add 2. I have come up short before if u just count 16 pulls. I have also come up short if you cut a standard reel in half for some racquets.. Always measure before u cut. I also usually do a 1 piece give a standard reel for oversize racquets as its not enough to do 2pc job. Before i cut any string I always measure if a standard reel is enough for a 2pc string job....
6:45 Harry uses a clamp with a length of string attached. He attaches the clamp to the string coming from the racquet and the length of string attached to the clamp goes to the tension mechanism. Minimum waste that might get another job out of a 660' foot reel.
Could you make a video on how to create that string extension you have with the clamp if someone runs out of string? I have the same clamp/tool, but I don't know how to add string to it to extend it when I need extra string to finish the final cross or main. Thanks!
I use a fisherman's knot between the short end of string and the reel. The knot tightens when you apply tension; then apply your floating or fixed clamp and tie off.
@@TomNguyenalwaysfortylove At 6:51 Harry applies what looks like a starting clamp to the extender string and the short string. I don't have that clamp, $20-50 at Amazing, though a small vise grip will likely work and won't break the bank (Harbor Fright?). fisherman's knot *is* fussy--I have c-clamps in my tool kit I can try. Maybe even a carpenter's 2 to 4" c-clamps will work. A 1" c clamp at home despot:
The extender is the starting clamp with a string that goes around it. You'll notice he's pulling tension on what looks like 2 strings, but it's the same string wrapped around the clamp going through the slots on it and he's put his short string in the middle of the gripper of the clamp. When he pulls tension it actually tightens the clamp on the short string. He already had it set up and did it quickly so it was hard to see what he did, but that's how you do it.
I noticed you didn't use the diablo when pulling strings, was that on purpose or habit not to? I tend to find it may create undo wear on the gripper and more possibility to pinch the string, just wondering your opinion.
I have a hack for you! If you use your awl when tying the knots, it’s like a finger trap. You can pull tension and it won’t release it. You’ll lose virtually zero tension at the knot.
Harry, love this video. Quick question, one of my fixed clamps when I locked it down the hinge / leaver slips on the clamp. Is this fixable? Or do I need to replace the whole thing…looking at $200 just for the clamp.
Hey man, love your videos. I’ve got a question for you, I wanna change mi racquet and I’d like to know your opinion bout this. I’ve been using a Wilson Burn 100S 18x16 for about 4 years now, and I wanna change to something that will give me a little more control and feel. My options are the Blade v7 16x19, the Babolat pure strike 16x19, and maybe the Clash 98, what do you think? I’m 16 btw. Keep making videos bro, I love them!
He doesn't respond to youtube comments. If you want control and feel, definitely not the Clash. You have to test the other two, otherwise you won't know if you like them or not. Buying a racquet without testing it first is most often a bad idea.
I tested the Clash and Blade with the same strings/ tension and found the Blade to be substantially better for control. The ball went where I wanted it, whereas I had to adjust to the Clash. FWIW.
Harry just one comment. why dont you put the first two crosses (no tension) in the racket before the mains are tied off? This is something i do so it makes it easier to get through the holes without the knot string covering the hole? Are there any issues with me doing this? Maybe this is another hack :)
I know what you’re saying. It depends because sometimes it’s easy to get through, other times not. If you know it’ll be a challenge - worth it. It’s not really simple because you’re interrupting the mains to start the crosses, but I’ve done it too.
I've been stringing my rackets for a long time using an old Garcia electric stringer. It normally takes an hour from set up to finish. I can't figure out how people do it in 30-40 minutes
@@SteetiLoL Hmm yea you're right, instructions say tie off cross at 6B. Idk why he mentions manufactures want it his way tho his reasoning seems reasonable I guess
Hi Harry! Thanks for this GREAT TIPS. But I wanna make sure something, is the tension will be lost or has different result when we pull it with an extender?
When I'm tying off string I pull tension using pliers on the portion to be knotted AND jam the awl in to the grommet . Otherwise you will lose tension on that small section of string between previous cross and tie off grommet. It's the little things.
Yikes…I’m surprised he’s making them that tight. I learned to just let them touch but not that night. Never had a racquet deform or break while stringing. I’ve received racquets back from stringers with cracks at 12 and 6 exactly where he makes it tight.
@@RigMaster_ Yes, go figure. An obvious case of a misjudgement by Yonex. Perhaps they were desperate. But the awful novice-like evidence is here which plenty here have recognised.
@@golpherguy6388 He is over tightening. It's stringing 101 really. I tell everyone that I train - "it's a mount, not a clamp". You can actually see the racquet change shape as he mounts it. He's putting the racquet under stress before he even tensions the first string. There's so many things this guy does wrong. The fact that he's done so many doesn't make it right, it makes it so much worse. I remember when I was learning to string and took lessons from a guy who'd been doing it for 50+ years. I told him I knew what I was doing because I had strung over 1000 racquets. He said, "that doesn't mean you've done any of them correctly".
What is the "extender" you used? Did you buy it, or make it? Please, please, please do a video on that, or otherwise give the info. Thanks for all you do on your channel. Have a coffee on me!
It's a starting clamp. Never saw that techinque before but that is definitely the hidden hack in this video. Check this out th-cam.com/video/uwA0OQ5e1B8/w-d-xo.html
it is a starting clamp that uses a piece of ideally poly or even better, kevlar string. Usually there will be a long strand leftover from the cross strings that you can use to thread through the holes on the side of the clamp
Best hack ever. After you even out the first two mains pull them together at 60 lbs. That means 30 lbs each. Then clamp them both then go back and re pull and clamp each at the tension you are stringing. Elliminates all slipping and the need for the starting clamp insurance policy!
Never heard of the insurance policy approach... if you know how to adjust your clamps you shouldn’t need to do this. The string will not slip in the clamp. Also not sure about his knots... we use the knot that use to be recommended by the USRSA (they may have changed the knots) but ours are much more secure
@Courtside After Hours: "... we use the knot that use to be recommended by the USRSA (they may have changed the knots) but ours are much more secure" And those MUCH MORE SECURE knots are which specificaly?
Could you do an in depth tutorial on weaving crosses like a professional. Especially techniques/ hacks/ how to hold the string between fingers/ step by step guide would be perfect. I have not seen a proper tutorial on weaving crosses on TH-cam to date.
@@satjiwan where's the in-depth step by step tutorial for weaving crosses? Please post the link to the specific video, specifically the finger techniques for weaving crosses used by professionals.
Anybody remember "box" stringing? Where you basically string the mains and the crosses at the same time, just back and forth, one main then one cross . . . It was a stringing technique more in the 80's . . .Does anybody do that anymore? What are the pros and cons of that technique?
cool so parnell knots are not necessary. It's not hard, but I have to watch the video to refresh my memory so it's easier to just use double knots like he's doing.
Hold on. If a string set is 40 feet long and you are stringing with two pieces at 20 feet each, do you need to measure anything? Just find the hlaf way point and cut. I may have misunderstood.
Just find the halfway and cut but run the 20 ft through your wingspan to get a feel for how long it should be for next time. Measuring by wingspan will save you time on sets and save string as well when cutting from a reel
I think it's because of the stiffness of the frame. Babolat is a lot stiffer then the Yonex so if you tighten it more it wouldn't really make a difference as for the Yonex by having a softer frame you will actually need to use that flexibility.
This racket can be done in either way (one or two piece method) to gain the hybrid style if the player need it someday. However when “short side ” is written on the top right or left side of the inner frame -> 1 piece (2 knots only) because the grommets are asymmetric.
@@ObjectiveCoder Yonex method is good for hybrid stringing so you can tie cross to cross. Also easier to cut out string as the starting knot isn't blocking the 2 tie offs knots.
Agree. Starting clamp all the way. The clue is in the name! If I was going to do it though, I wouldn't use the knot he used. If you want a solid starting knot that never slips, use the fisherman's knot. It pulls against itself when tension is applied so it can't slip.
@@SkyreeXScalabar and I use the Kimony Starting Clamp; its the best and wonderful to use for the crosses and stating the mains as a backup to the clamp like he does with his gamma or babolat whichever one he is using here
Chocking the chicken 🐔 has got to be extra😬. Never heard of a term like that for stringing a racquet. Definitely a warping technique to prematurely harm stick handling and longevity.😬
I don't know, you lost a lot of string in your crosses. That's not very efficient. Somehow you didn't count properly or measure it right. In my experience, the crosses require less string length then the mains. You did have to use a starting clamp to finish off the mains, which is not bad but you don't have much margin for error there. If you got distracted and counted wrong, you would have to cut another piece of string which is wasteful. I choose the arm length method and it's so much faster and accurate. To me, these are not stinging hacks, they are just tips for stringers. Thanks for the video.
dude the coolest part of this video is the starting clamp with string extender...i never knew that was a thing!
Literally saved my life when I pushed the limits of a stiff polyester 😅 The most devastating feeling is on the final cross and it’s short 😪
@@TennisTimeWithLong This has happened to Wolfy twice in 13 ½ years of stringing. Had to pull out all the crosses and start over! Just acquired a starting clamp two weeks ago, so this will not happen again. Plus the starting clamp will make it easier to pull the knots…
Yep. This was the "hack" I found most useful and he skipped right over it.
For the crosses I cut the tip at an angle so it's pointier and easier to get through the blocked grommet holes.
Just getting started with stringing. Thanks so much. Your video is more clear on tying knots than other resources I have seen.
Interesting 1st tip! Aren't you distorting the hoop shape by tightening 12 and 6? I have a 6 point machine and notice that it only takes a tiny bit of tightening to stretch/distort the hoop when setting 12 and 6.
Me too. I finger-tighten 3-4x, going across like tightening wheel lugs. Then I'm not ever clamping down hard but rather "sneaking" up on it.
When I'm done that frame doesn't budge.
Im self taught restringer so made sure to read all the instructions lol and yes you're right, 12 and 6 arent meant to be tight. Just a little over finger tight then tighten the rest so theres no play in the racquet, no more tension than that required.
Obviously, please don't do what he did there
Id love to see you start reviewing strings in their own videos. Really hard to find videos that break down the pros and cons of each individual string on the market.
Much better than other tutorials I have seen
Extend the string WITHOUT TOOLS when the end of the string on the last main or cross is too short. Tie a figure eight knot between the end and a 10-20" segment of string that you cut out of the racquet or even the end of the reel from which you cut your new string.. It'll slip a bit until the knot tightens, then it'll hold. This should work with slippery strings like poly (I put a knot under tension by 55# drop weight stringing machine--it held tight through the night)
The chicken cracked me up ;)
Best hack was the starting clamp with the extra string on it
Perfect! Thank you.
super informative, super easy to see how you're doing it, and great explanations!! thank you so much for sharing!
Hello, nice video, can you please tell me witch starting clamp are you using.
Thanks
this is so informative! you are life saver
I have a TF-40 315 with a full bed of Triax string that launches the ball on contact. Can the mains be replaced with gut at 60 lb? What is the best string to prevent launching of the ball?
Excellent !
Aweome video!
Does it matter if it's a badminton racket or tennis racket with these hacks and knots? I just bought a stringing machine mainly for badminton. I'm trying to learn.
After a few thousand string jobs, I still learn stuff! Thanks, Harry. I'm still using an Ektelon "C", modified for modern racquets. Yeah, I'm old........
Hi, Thanks for the video! Is there a particular labeling tape that you use to notate the date, type string, and poundage of the string job; that you stick to the racket?
Absolutely Pro! Tips! Definitely useful! Thanks!
when you mount a racket that is already strung-do you mount it first and then cut out the strings or cut out the strings and then mount the racket??
I would cut the strings and then check the frame to make sure that there is no fractures or broken grommets.
Then I would mount the racket.
Please tell me about the sticker with the tension recomendations.
The sticker on the racket i have says:
16 mains/19 crosses....
Tension recommendation:
21/24 kg or 46/52 lbs
Does it mean that I should string the mains with 21 kg and the crosses with 24 kg....????
Hi, Sir Thanks for sharing these skills. I wish to know where to buy that extra clamp.
Can you do a quick follow-on about how tight to make the clamp? Are clamp marks okay on a string? If I don't tighten enough to see marks, then the string slips. Would rather have the clamp marks...
If the string slips when you don't have marks you either have bad clamps or you haven't cleaned them.
@@Fred_P Though some strings are softer than others and more likely to get marked up.
@@PaulWolfe1 It doesn't matter, if you leave marks on the strings, you've crushed them and they will be more likely to break. There's a knob for adjusting the clamping force for a reason.
If u measured the mains that way.. Would u be short sometimes depending on your machine. Because of the distance of the pulling head from the racquet and type of machine. On a drop weight requires u to loop the string around the head then lock it... So I always add 2. I have come up short before if u just count 16 pulls. I have also come up short if you cut a standard reel in half for some racquets.. Always measure before u cut. I also usually do a 1 piece give a standard reel for oversize racquets as its not enough to do 2pc job. Before i cut any string I always measure if a standard reel is enough for a 2pc string job....
Yes you're right .... His hack would make you waste even more strings. He's not a pro stringer.
6:45 Harry uses a clamp with a length of string attached. He attaches the clamp to the string coming from the racquet and the length of string attached to the clamp goes to the tension mechanism. Minimum waste that might get another job out of a 660' foot reel.
Really good. On the other video you started crosses not with a knot but with a starting clamp. When should I use one of these methods?
yeah, that way the Yonex video, its not clear for me, too.
Also, show how to string the starting clamp with extra string to use as an extended. Thanks
Could you make a video on how to create that string extension you have with the clamp if someone runs out of string? I have the same clamp/tool, but I don't know how to add string to it to extend it when I need extra string to finish the final cross or main. Thanks!
Yes same issue here. I have an alpha stringer/starting clamp, it doesn't have side holes as seen in some demos.
I use a fisherman's knot between the short end of string and the reel. The knot tightens when you apply tension; then apply your floating or fixed clamp and tie off.
@@paddlepower888 that is how I do mine too but his way to extend string seems way seamless, no knot involved, I gotta figure out how his way is done.
@@TomNguyenalwaysfortylove At 6:51 Harry applies what looks like a starting clamp to the extender string and the short string. I don't have that clamp, $20-50 at Amazing, though a small vise grip will likely work and won't break the bank (Harbor Fright?). fisherman's knot *is* fussy--I have c-clamps in my tool kit I can try. Maybe even a carpenter's 2 to 4" c-clamps will work. A 1" c clamp at home despot:
The extender is the starting clamp with a string that goes around it. You'll notice he's pulling tension on what looks like 2 strings, but it's the same string wrapped around the clamp going through the slots on it and he's put his short string in the middle of the gripper of the clamp. When he pulls tension it actually tightens the clamp on the short string. He already had it set up and did it quickly so it was hard to see what he did, but that's how you do it.
Starting the mains is a big no no. Best to use the yuski method which enables you to clamp the steing clamp while the string is tensioned.
7:09 can someone explain how that last string has tension? isn't it just dangling there?
I noticed you didn't use the diablo when pulling strings, was that on purpose or habit not to? I tend to find it may create undo wear on the gripper and more possibility to pinch the string, just wondering your opinion.
I have a hack for you! If you use your awl when tying the knots, it’s like a finger trap. You can pull tension and it won’t release it. You’ll lose virtually zero tension at the knot.
how do you account for the extra string for the last pull as well as the portion of the string "on the grommets"?
I count 16 from the middle mains instead of moving along the frame and its perfect amount with enough string to pull last one without extender.
Maybe string elongates under tension, enough to account for them? Idk tho I just use 40 feet cut in almost half (mains a bit longer)
I don't have an extender so I have to 1(17) counting from the middle, a bit more if I am going for low tension (I just string for myself)
Harry, love this video. Quick question, one of my fixed clamps when I locked it down the hinge / leaver slips on the clamp. Is this fixable? Or do I need to replace the whole thing…looking at $200 just for the clamp.
Do you have a Baiardo as well? I will try an upload a video on what mine was doing. Do you have a video of what yours is doing?
Hey man, love your videos. I’ve got a question for you, I wanna change mi racquet and I’d like to know your opinion bout this. I’ve been using a Wilson Burn 100S 18x16 for about 4 years now, and I wanna change to something that will give me a little more control and feel. My options are the Blade v7 16x19, the Babolat pure strike 16x19, and maybe the Clash 98, what do you think? I’m 16 btw.
Keep making videos bro, I love them!
He doesn't respond to youtube comments. If you want control and feel, definitely not the Clash. You have to test the other two, otherwise you won't know if you like them or not. Buying a racquet without testing it first is most often a bad idea.
The blade should give you more feel and definitely will give you more control
If youre looking for control and feel,try Head Radical.
I tested the Clash and Blade with the same strings/ tension and found the Blade to be substantially better for control. The ball went where I wanted it, whereas I had to adjust to the Clash. FWIW.
Harry just one comment. why dont you put the first two crosses (no tension) in the racket before the mains are tied off? This is something i do so it makes it easier to get through the holes without the knot string covering the hole? Are there any issues with me doing this? Maybe this is another hack :)
This would require you to start from the bottom of the racket where the knots finished :) Please let me know what you think
Stringing crosses bottom up? Nahhh I'll pass unless it's almost impossible to get the cross in the hole, which nowadays is unlikely
I know what you’re saying. It depends because sometimes it’s easy to get through, other times not. If you know it’ll be a challenge - worth it. It’s not really simple because you’re interrupting the mains to start the crosses, but I’ve done it too.
I've been stringing my rackets for a long time using an old Garcia electric stringer. It normally takes an hour from set up to finish. I can't figure out how people do it in 30-40 minutes
isnt the last tie off on the crosses at the bottom supposed to go in the grommet closer to the throat (to the right, not left like you did)??
Per USRSA 2019 Pure Aero.
Tie 2pc X 5H,6T
No it doesn't need to, based on manufacture stringing instructions.
@@benny914 yes, but on this pure aero
@@SteetiLoL Hmm yea you're right, instructions say tie off cross at 6B. Idk why he mentions manufactures want it his way tho his reasoning seems reasonable I guess
@@benny914 He’s probably confusing it with the AeroPro GT. That has a last cross tie off on 10T(throat)
Could you make a in dept video of how to correctly knot
Hi Harry! Thanks for this GREAT TIPS. But I wanna make sure something, is the tension will be lost or has different result when we pull it with an extender?
When I'm tying off string I pull tension using pliers on the portion to be knotted AND jam the awl in to the grommet . Otherwise you will lose tension on that small section of string between previous cross and tie off grommet. It's the little things.
Can you PLEASE make a entire video on weaving???
Doesn't it make sense to just add another foot so you don't have to bridge it? Great video!
Actually, you don’t want to tighten the billiards and mounting arms. It could lead to microscopic stress fractures on the frame.
not choke the chicken. bit just finger tight! 😆
Yikes…I’m surprised he’s making them that tight. I learned to just let them touch but not that night. Never had a racquet deform or break while stringing. I’ve received racquets back from stringers with cracks at 12 and 6 exactly where he makes it tight.
Why don't you use the Yusuki method to start the mains? Since you use a "starting clamp" anyway. No worry about "leveling off" etc.
DO NOT tighten the machine mounts to be tight. They should just touch the frame. He's warping every racquet he strings this way.
This guy is an utter amateur !!!!
@@a2casius an amateur who has strung for professional tennis players at tournaments?
@@RigMaster_ Yes, go figure. An obvious case of a misjudgement by Yonex. Perhaps they were desperate. But the awful novice-like evidence is here which plenty here have recognised.
He has literally strung thousands upon thousands of racquets. That being said, surely he is not over tightening.
@@golpherguy6388 He is over tightening. It's stringing 101 really. I tell everyone that I train - "it's a mount, not a clamp". You can actually see the racquet change shape as he mounts it. He's putting the racquet under stress before he even tensions the first string.
There's so many things this guy does wrong. The fact that he's done so many doesn't make it right, it makes it so much worse. I remember when I was learning to string and took lessons from a guy who'd been doing it for 50+ years. I told him I knew what I was doing because I had strung over 1000 racquets. He said, "that doesn't mean you've done any of them correctly".
What is the "extender" you used? Did you buy it, or make it? Please, please, please do a video on that, or otherwise give the info. Thanks for all you do on your channel. Have a coffee on me!
It's a starting clamp. Never saw that techinque before but that is definitely the hidden hack in this video. Check this out th-cam.com/video/uwA0OQ5e1B8/w-d-xo.html
it is a starting clamp that uses a piece of ideally poly or even better, kevlar string. Usually there will be a long strand leftover from the cross strings that you can use to thread through the holes on the side of the clamp
Can you make a video showing us how to clean a stringing machine?
Does he use wilson pro knot as starting knot?
Yes. And also didn't use it on a normal tie-off in favor of something slower.
Hi I wondered if someone knows where to finde the Wilson baiardo l online everywhere I look it send to be sold out
20 feet 2 by 20 feet ? even on a 18 x20 my crankback yes but a constant pull?
great video!!
Best hack ever. After you even out the first two mains pull them together at 60 lbs. That means 30 lbs each. Then clamp them both then go back and re pull and clamp each at the tension you are stringing. Elliminates all slipping and the need for the starting clamp insurance policy!
Never heard of the insurance policy approach... if you know how to adjust your clamps you shouldn’t need to do this. The string will not slip in the clamp. Also not sure about his knots... we use the knot that use to be recommended by the USRSA (they may have changed the knots) but ours are much more secure
@Courtside After Hours: "... we use the knot that use to be recommended by the USRSA (they may have changed the knots) but ours are much more secure"
And those MUCH MORE SECURE knots are which specificaly?
i use a klippermate and the tension seems off. anyone have any tips?
Tension on middle mains (especially when one switches to start the other half) is the tricky part, but it is not shown.
For Crosses: I think its better to knot first then do the 1st weave
But then you’re pulling tension against a knot. Less advisable.
Parnell slips. Double Hitch does not. That's my experience restringing. Especially on glossy racquets or glossy bumpers.
Could you do an in depth tutorial on weaving crosses like a professional. Especially techniques/ hacks/ how to hold the string between fingers/ step by step guide would be perfect. I have not seen a proper tutorial on weaving crosses on TH-cam to date.
Yulitle has lots of great stringing videos.
m.th-cam.com/users/YULitlevideos
And so does Mr10sStringer.
m.th-cam.com/users/Mr10sStringer
@@satjiwan where's the in-depth step by step tutorial for weaving crosses? Please post the link to the specific video, specifically the finger techniques for weaving crosses used by professionals.
Don't you tend to wait for some time to stretch the string after a signal? some strings are elastic and can stretch much after the signal
Not poly no
Anybody remember "box" stringing? Where you basically string the mains and the crosses at the same time, just back and forth, one main then one cross . . . It was a stringing technique more in the 80's . . .Does anybody do that anymore? What are the pros and cons of that technique?
yes, called Universal Around the World string pattern
cool so parnell knots are not necessary. It's not hard, but I have to watch the video to refresh my memory so it's easier to just use double knots like he's doing.
What’s the best cheapest portable stringer on the market?
dropweight either by alpha or gamma, gamma ones might be the cheaper options
Hold on. If a string set is 40 feet long and you are stringing with two pieces at 20 feet each, do you need to measure anything? Just find the hlaf way point and cut. I may have misunderstood.
Just find the halfway and cut but run the 20 ft through your wingspan to get a feel for how long it should be for next time. Measuring by wingspan will save you time on sets and save string as well when cutting from a reel
I don't get it, on the Yonex 100 you barely tighten the frame as on this one it's tight as hell. What's the deal?
I think it's because of the stiffness of the frame. Babolat is a lot stiffer then the Yonex so if you tighten it more it wouldn't really make a difference as for the Yonex by having a softer frame you will actually need to use that flexibility.
starting knot is for beginners
This shows how much paying for this is valuable!
starting knot???...lol....this is a great video on what NOT TO DO
I never tighten the racquet down as he does it. If the racquet frame cannot be allowed to flex....thats not good.
He is right, this is a hack job.
👍
Why string in 2 pieces as Babolat string in one ?
This racket can be done in either way (one or two piece method) to gain the hybrid style if the player need it someday.
However when “short side ” is written on the top right or left side of the inner frame -> 1 piece (2 knots only) because the grommets are asymmetric.
2 piece provides a more even string bed tension since each side of mains and crosses have a tieoff
15:52 you’re welcome.
I would never ever do a starting knot i clamp off and pull the two crosses last and it evens the tension better
Harry does that method in another video about Yonex stringing team I remember. Would be nice to know when and why he opts for a starting knot.
@@ObjectiveCoder Yonex method is good for hybrid stringing so you can tie cross to cross. Also easier to cut out string as the starting knot isn't blocking the 2 tie offs knots.
Agree. Starting clamp all the way. The clue is in the name! If I was going to do it though, I wouldn't use the knot he used. If you want a solid starting knot that never slips, use the fisherman's knot. It pulls against itself when tension is applied so it can't slip.
@@SkyreeXScalabar and I use the Kimony Starting Clamp; its the best and wonderful to use for the crosses and stating the mains as a backup to the clamp like he does with his gamma or babolat whichever one he is using here
He uses a starting clamp. He is just showing the starting knot for demonstration purposes.
Chocking the chicken 🐔 has got to be extra😬. Never heard of a term like that for stringing a racquet. Definitely a warping technique to prematurely harm stick handling and longevity.😬
Chicken sound effects!!!!❤❤🐔🐔🐔
Weaving the crosses fast looks like a hack that he didn't explain. 😢
Wrong place to tie that last cross knot. Other then that a good video for beginners. I have 10+ years of stringing experience.
Probably useful for beginners but nothing new for anyone experienced.
I don't know, you lost a lot of string in your crosses. That's not very efficient. Somehow you didn't count properly or measure it right. In my experience, the crosses require less string length then the mains. You did have to use a starting clamp to finish off the mains, which is not bad but you don't have much margin for error there. If you got distracted and counted wrong, you would have to cut another piece of string which is wasteful. I choose the arm length method and it's so much faster and accurate. To me, these are not stinging hacks, they are just tips for stringers. Thanks for the video.
he cut short...OMG....extender? LOL
put it on 1.25 speed thank me later
Thanks for this video.... Now I know to never go here to string my rackets
choke the chicken.. .lmao
Your first “hack” is all wrong wrong wrong. NEVER secure the posts tight. NEVER!!!! They should be snug at the most, never tight.
Turned the video off after he used a starting clamp in the stringbed - a fraud....NEVER USE A STARTING CLAMP IN THE STRINGBED
STARTING CLAMP IN STRING-BED???? WTF.....you just crimped the string.....
you just BROKE the FRAME....WTF....way too tight
Arnt you giving away ur secrets
Won’t people string their own rackets now.?
I did
It ain’t tight but I saved $50