Do not forget about grounding the surge protection! The box is unfinished, but you didn't mention this when describing all the connections and cabling.
I don’t know in France it’s required to put your PV wire inside conduit. But in the United States, it is required. Several reasons for doing it. 1). It’s a lot of voltage. 2) if a rat were to chew the wire . 3) Potential for arcing . Just a suggestion. It’s your system your design. I’ve made a lot of mistakes, but I have learned.
Be really careful to install any DC breakers properly. Generally speaking you want to use unpolarized 2-pole breakers throughout the system. The only place where you can use polarized breakers are in the solar combiner boxes. Those tend to be polarized because they have to be 1000VDC breakers. Everywhere else the current can flow both directions so the breakers have to be unpolarized (*else you have a fire if it ever trips with the current going the wrong direction*). And be sure the breakers are all DC rated (usually 12-100VDC or similar for unpolarized breakers). Unfortunately one cannot usually tell whether a breaker is polarized or unpolarized by the markings on it. A breaker marked with "+" and "-" can still be unpolarized, and a breaker with no "+" or "-" markings at all can still be polarized. Only breakers that mark "+/-" on both sides of the breaker are clearly unpolarized based on the labeling. Otherwise... you have to visit the manufacturer's web site and look at the spec sheet. Manufacturers often use different mechanisms for their 2-pole vs 1-pole breakers so look up the correct breaker. Beyond that, a quick lesson on DC breaker "+" and "-" markings. These markings are NOT marking the positive and negative sides of the breaker. That isn't how polarization works. The markings are marking the *direction of current flow*. The point where the breaker's "+" marking is is where the current goes into the breaker and the other side is where it goes out. And the point where the breaker's "-" marking is is where the current goes out of the breaker and the other side is where the current goes in. You can wind up with the "red" and "black" cables seemingly swapped verses the markings but still be correct. *You have to get this right or you have a fire if the thing ever trips and is a polarized breaker* I'll repeat, because it is important: A breaker that has no "+" and "-" markings is *not necessarily an unpolarized breaker*. In fact, most unpolarized breakers still have "+" and "-" markings for industry best-practices. The only markings that guarantee that a breaker is unpolarized is when each end is marked with both... i.e. "+/-" on both sides of the breaker. Otherwise ... manufacturer's spec sheet to determine it. Or rip one apart to find out. Breakers with built-in magnets around the contacts are usually polarized and breakers without built-in magnets are usually not polarized. Breakers rated for very high voltages, like 1000VDC, are almost always polarized, breakers with limited voltage ranges (e.g. like 12-100VDC) can be either polarized or unpolarized. And this is also why unpolarized breakers have to be used in most places in solar systems... because the current can flow in both directions (charging vs discharging), particularly battery interconnects but also charge controller interconnects and hybrid inverter interconnects (a short can develop on either side and the charge controller is pushing power). -Matt
It looks correct. If you check DZ47Z they mark the top line and bottom load. I am pretty sure the surge protection needs a ground wire connected to ground. I cant see that. The details are too blurry to see but the breaker does come in 250v and 500v variants.
@@sparkletornado5890 I suspect that this is the one: DIHOOL PV Solar Combiner Box for Solar Panels 2 String 25 Amp Junction Box DC500V 25A 2 in 2 Out - it can be found on the US version of that famous online store. There's some curious wiring configurations shown in at least one of the images on that website. I'm assuming that the thin white plastic strip above the breakers is covering some short busbars that are bent forward through ninety degrees?
In these I love to use Flat Blade Terminals (10 AWG). They work very nicely with MCB breakers and in cases like this. It gives you a large, flat, contact surface area. Ferrules Direct is where I tend to buy mine.. 10 to 14 mm lone blade and at least 4.5mm wide blade(I prefer 5mm)..
Are you going to connect Charge Controllers to a Lynx Distributer (so have a fused connection), same comment I made about your Inverter wiring. Only Batteries should be connected to the Lynx Power In. (effectively fused at battery end).
![HIWWHEE | OHM [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/OJJLtTLqLag/mqdefault.jpg)
Do not forget about grounding the surge protection! The box is unfinished, but you didn't mention this when describing all the connections and cabling.
SARAH, THANKS 🙏 FOR SHARING EACH STEP OF YOUR!
I don’t know in France it’s required to put your PV wire inside conduit. But in the United States, it is required. Several reasons for doing it. 1). It’s a lot of voltage. 2) if a rat were to chew the wire .
3) Potential for arcing .
Just a suggestion. It’s your system your design. I’ve made a lot of mistakes, but I have learned.
Be really careful to install any DC breakers properly. Generally speaking you want to use unpolarized 2-pole breakers throughout the system. The only place where you can use polarized breakers are in the solar combiner boxes. Those tend to be polarized because they have to be 1000VDC breakers.
Everywhere else the current can flow both directions so the breakers have to be unpolarized (*else you have a fire if it ever trips with the current going the wrong direction*). And be sure the breakers are all DC rated (usually 12-100VDC or similar for unpolarized breakers).
Unfortunately one cannot usually tell whether a breaker is polarized or unpolarized by the markings on it. A breaker marked with "+" and "-" can still be unpolarized, and a breaker with no "+" or "-" markings at all can still be polarized. Only breakers that mark "+/-" on both sides of the breaker are clearly unpolarized based on the labeling. Otherwise... you have to visit the manufacturer's web site and look at the spec sheet. Manufacturers often use different mechanisms for their 2-pole vs 1-pole breakers so look up the correct breaker.
Beyond that, a quick lesson on DC breaker "+" and "-" markings. These markings are NOT marking the positive and negative sides of the breaker. That isn't how polarization works. The markings are marking the *direction of current flow*.
The point where the breaker's "+" marking is is where the current goes into the breaker and the other side is where it goes out. And the point where the breaker's "-" marking is is where the current goes out of the breaker and the other side is where the current goes in. You can wind up with the "red" and "black" cables seemingly swapped verses the markings but still be correct.
*You have to get this right or you have a fire if the thing ever trips and is a polarized breaker*
I'll repeat, because it is important: A breaker that has no "+" and "-" markings is *not necessarily an unpolarized breaker*. In fact, most unpolarized breakers still have "+" and "-" markings for industry best-practices. The only markings that guarantee that a breaker is unpolarized is when each end is marked with both... i.e. "+/-" on both sides of the breaker.
Otherwise ... manufacturer's spec sheet to determine it. Or rip one apart to find out. Breakers with built-in magnets around the contacts are usually polarized and breakers without built-in magnets are usually not polarized. Breakers rated for very high voltages, like 1000VDC, are almost always polarized, breakers with limited voltage ranges (e.g. like 12-100VDC) can be either polarized or unpolarized.
And this is also why unpolarized breakers have to be used in most places in solar systems... because the current can flow in both directions (charging vs discharging), particularly battery interconnects but also charge controller interconnects and hybrid inverter interconnects (a short can develop on either side and the charge controller is pushing power).
-Matt
It looks correct. If you check DZ47Z they mark the top line and bottom load. I am pretty sure the surge protection needs a ground wire connected to ground. I cant see that. The details are too blurry to see but the breaker does come in 250v and 500v variants.
@@sparkletornado5890 I suspect that this is the one:
DIHOOL PV Solar Combiner Box for Solar Panels 2 String 25 Amp Junction Box DC500V 25A 2 in 2 Out - it can be found on the US version of that famous online store.
There's some curious wiring configurations shown in at least one of the images on that website.
I'm assuming that the thin white plastic strip above the breakers is covering some short busbars that are bent forward through ninety degrees?
In these I love to use Flat Blade Terminals (10 AWG). They work very nicely with MCB breakers and in cases like this. It gives you a large, flat, contact surface area. Ferrules Direct is where I tend to buy mine.. 10 to 14 mm lone blade and at least 4.5mm wide blade(I prefer 5mm)..
Looking forward to the moment the whole thing is live.😊 So much effort.
Good stuff Sara loved the intro 😁 .
Glad you liked it!!
Are you going to connect Charge Controllers to a Lynx Distributer (so have a fused connection), same comment I made about your Inverter wiring. Only Batteries should be connected to the Lynx Power In. (effectively fused at battery end).
Nice project.
I really enjoy most of your videos, great work.
Glad you like them!
I will be glad when you are done with the roof, makes me nervous :)
Wonderful !
Where did you buy the surge protectors and circuit breakers with fuses?
Got them from Amazon UK