I thought something was wrong when I didn't see rear resivor pumping fluid now I know have to keep going. like you said this is only video that mentioned about rear may take a long time.
brake fluid does not evaporate. brake fluid is hygroscopic meaning it is water seeking. if you leave the cap off it will eventually absorb the water moisture from the air and have water molecules in the brake fluid that can boil under hot brake applications. that is why they say to put the cap back on, not because of evaporation. I have never seen brake fluid evaporate and i have left bottles of fluid exposed to the air for months just to see the moisture content. i have a moisture tester.
fluid will only come out if you push the pushrod (or screw driver in this case) in the rear of the master cylinder. There will be a SLIGHT bit f air left in the system after you hook the lines up but it will not be nearly as much.
Brake fluid evaporates? I knew it was hygroscopic but I’ve never lost any from leaving a cap off. I was always told to cap it because it absorbed moisture (hygroscopic). Same reason you want your reservoir cap and diaphragm in good shape, it’ll pull moisture and rust brake lines and cylinder bores
Excellent tutorial! Feel comfortable to take on the task myself thanks to this video. Very helpful that you made references to the time it could take. Question: is it imperative that the master cylinder be level on the bench? I understand it doesn't sit level while attached to the booster (at least not on mine) and it must be level.
Quick question, so how do you mount it onto the booster without dripping brake fluid? I mean, Eventually you will have to disconnect the bleeder screw and install the brake lines, during that process, is there a trick to not have brake fluid leak during the line installation? And when you do open it, won't it draw air? What about installing it onto the booster, use the oedal to make the booster push rod to push on it to let the air bubbles out then once done, just remove bleeders and install br
How would you go about reinstalling it then so you dont have more air getting into the master? Just keep that all hooked up, connect it to the booster and then quickly connect the regular brake lines?
Good question. By keeping the master cylinder right side up. The fluid will drip out of the holes, air wont go in. Also installing the cap stops the flow of fluid out the holes. Most master cylinders also come with screw in caps to keep the fluid from draining out of the master cylinder until it can installed.
Does that mean you keep the reservoir at the full level of brake fluid when you are installing the master cylinder back on the car? @@MustangRestorationsInc
Is have a classic Fiat where the master cylinder is under the pedal and the fluid reservoir just under the windscreen. Still figuring out how to bench bleed it, because if you fix the brake lines all fluid leaks out.
Plug one of the beak line holes then put your FINGER over the open hole so that break fluid can come out but seals it from going back in until you get a solid stream!! Then plug the hole you just blead out and blead the other break line hole!! Then I put the master cylinder on the car with the lines a little loose and have my helper push the pedal down then I tighten the line release the break pedal then open the lines a little push the pedal down again until the air is out works every time!
Hello! I'm writing from Spain. I've bought a new master cylinder for my 69 Mustang and the isn't this kit to bleed the master cylinder. I must to replace the brake hoses too. Then it's mandatory to bleed the master cylinder? If it is the only way, do you know where can I find this kit? Thanks!!
@@MustangRestorationsInc thanks, for your answer. I've got all the parts for that. But I can't find this kit that you use in your video for bleeding the master cylinder before to put in the car.
@@MustangRestorationsInc Hello Chris my car is 1993 Ford Taurus V6 3L and my master cylinder have 4 ports (4 brake lines) do I do the same things you did with the plastic hose,,but in my case i need to put 4 hoses instate of 2 like you? and how long estimate can take thank you
Great video. I have a Camaro with a proportioning valve. Does that get hooked up after the MC has been bench bled, or should it be hooked up before hand? If before, how would you seal up all of the ports, as it has 4. Thanks!
the reason you want to put the cap back on the brake fluid is because brake fluid is hydroscopic, meaning it will absorb water from the air. water will ruin a brake system. that is why its always recommended to only use brake fluid from a new, unopened bottle.
Great video , hi Doc ,my 68 mustang six cylinder, I can't remove the brake master cilynder from the push line , there's a retainer or something holding it , any help thanks
Hi.. The rod is anchored to the pedal on the inside of the car. Take a peek under the dash & follow the rod coming thru the firewall and remove the clip. This will allow you to remove the master cylinder with the rod attached to it.Also please sign my petition to get a cable show at: www.thedocneedsashow.com
Thanks Chris, another question: I heard that when removing the master cylinder from the C3 corvettes it can be hard to reinstall the master cylinder without having subsequent leaks at the booster. Once the seal is broken from the booster, it is hard to get a good seal again. Have you had any experience with the C3 corvettes (1974 specifically) where this was a problem? thanks
97widerider Never heard of that being an issue. I have worked on, and have owned many, many Corvettes without having trouble with a seal. Make sure that area is cleaned before reinstalling the Master.
Made the master cylinder squirt on the bench (both lines) but when i put it on the car, only the back line squirted and the front line dripped.......why?......this is installed on my 64 impala
Hmmm. You may have some type of collapse of the front brake hoses not letting the fluid travel thru them. Loosen the line at the hoses..See if fluid comes out before the hoses.
DO THE SAME THING HE DID BUT BOLT IT TO THE CAR AND HAVE SOMEONE PUMP THE BRAKES WHILE YOU WATCH FOR LOW FLUID AND AIR BUBBLES. USE THE CLEAR TUBES TO BLEED IT.
I suppose that would be the case if someone was careless & did not wrap the master cylinder with a rag before doing the installation. Thanks for the comment. Very educational.
Just put it on the car and have the wife pump the pedal slowly.. Thats what I do! :) Never had a issue with that and in ten minutes the wife can go back inside to watch her shows and I can slip the brake lines on. Already ahead of the game :P Then i can have her come back out while I crack open the bleeders and call it done.
Yes your way can be done too.... The bleeding process just gives you a bit of a head start. I know what you mean about the wife getting back inside to watch her shows too, My wife does the same :)
You can't just use any type of brake fluid as this guy implies. If your system was designed for DOT3, that's what you have to use, etc. And silicone brake fluid should not be used unless you have a special need for it. It was designed for military vehicles.
all this looks easy on tube and incomplete. now trying to do it for real is another story. wasted hours couldn't get air out. need special tools to remove old cylinder. on and on one trouble after another.
I've watched three of these tutorials, and this is the only guy that gives you an idea of how long it might take. He's the best.
I thought something was wrong when I didn't see rear resivor pumping fluid now I know have to keep going. like you said this is only video that mentioned about rear may take a long time.
brake fluid does not evaporate. brake fluid is hygroscopic meaning it is water seeking. if you leave the cap off it will eventually absorb the water moisture from the air and have water molecules in the brake fluid that can boil under hot brake applications. that is why they say to put the cap back on, not because of evaporation. I have never seen brake fluid evaporate and i have left bottles of fluid exposed to the air for months just to see the moisture content. i have a moisture tester.
fluid will only come out if you push the pushrod (or screw driver in this case) in the rear of the master cylinder. There will be a SLIGHT bit f air left in the system after you hook the lines up but it will not be nearly as much.
Brake fluid evaporates? I knew it was hygroscopic but I’ve never lost any from leaving a cap off. I was always told to cap it because it absorbed moisture (hygroscopic). Same reason you want your reservoir cap and diaphragm in good shape, it’ll pull moisture and rust brake lines and cylinder bores
Great how to video Chris. Getting ready to replace master cylinder on my '69 Nova.
Thank you........
That is a 1970 Mustang Mach 1 in the background right? Beautiful! Mine is Orange (Calypso Coral). I am replacing the master cylinder on her today.
Excellent tutorial! Feel comfortable to take on the task myself thanks to this video. Very helpful that you made references to the time it could take. Question: is it imperative that the master cylinder be level on the bench? I understand it doesn't sit level while attached to the booster (at least not on mine) and it must be level.
Derek Vinyard Should be as level as possible. You will see why when you do the task. Thanks !!
Dumb question but, don't you have to bleed both sides of each caliper?
Quick question, so how do you mount it onto the booster without dripping brake fluid? I mean, Eventually you will have to disconnect the bleeder screw and install the brake lines, during that process, is there a trick to not have brake fluid leak during the line installation? And when you do open it, won't it draw air? What about installing it onto the booster, use the oedal to make the booster push rod to push on it to let the air bubbles out then once done, just remove bleeders and install br
the trick is to do it fast (; lol
usually after you replace or bleed the master cylinder you bleed the brakes as well
Yes you can actually get it mounted to the car and press the brake pedal and expell the air before hooking up the brake lines.
How would you go about reinstalling it then so you dont have more air getting into the master? Just keep that all hooked up, connect it to the booster and then quickly connect the regular brake lines?
Good question. By keeping the master cylinder right side up. The fluid will drip out of the holes, air wont go in. Also installing the cap stops the flow of fluid out the holes. Most master cylinders also come with screw in caps to keep the fluid from draining out of the master cylinder until it can installed.
Does that mean you keep the reservoir at the full level of brake fluid when you are installing the master cylinder back on the car? @@MustangRestorationsInc
@@xpmark1 Yes, with the cap installed...
Is have a classic Fiat where the master cylinder is under the pedal and the fluid reservoir just under the windscreen. Still figuring out how to bench bleed it, because if you fix the brake lines all fluid leaks out.
Bench bleed the Master Cylinder & put it on the car.Then bleed the entire brake system. That is how it is done no matter where the location is.
Plug one of the beak line holes then put your FINGER over the open hole so that break fluid can come out but seals it from going back in until you get a solid stream!! Then plug the hole you just blead out and blead the other break line hole!! Then I put the master cylinder on the car with the lines a little loose and have my helper push the pedal down then I tighten the line release the break pedal then open the lines a little push the pedal down again until the air is out works every time!
burt simmer should make a video of this
Something we newbies need to know. Do you leave the brake fluid in the reservoirs when you attach the master cylinder to the car?
Yes.
@@MustangRestorationsInc Thanks Chris.
Hello! I'm writing from Spain. I've bought a new master cylinder for my 69 Mustang and the isn't this kit to bleed the master cylinder. I must to replace the brake hoses too. Then it's mandatory to bleed the master cylinder? If it is the only way, do you know where can I find this kit? Thanks!!
Yes... if you replace the hose's you will need to bleed the brake system. For parts go to www.kentuckymustang.com
@@MustangRestorationsInc thanks, for your answer. I've got all the parts for that. But I can't find this kit that you use in your video for bleeding the master cylinder before to put in the car.
Talk to the guys at Kentucky Mustang Parts & they can send you the Master Cylinder bleeding kit as seen in the video. Explain that to them.
@@MustangRestorationsInc thank you!!
Hey Chris, what if I’m not getting flow from front reservoir or bubbles. But I am getting both from back reservoir?
Probably a bad Master Cylinder.It may take time though to get a good bleed of a new master cylinder.
@@MustangRestorationsInc
Hello Chris
my car is 1993 Ford Taurus V6 3L and my master cylinder
have 4 ports (4 brake lines)
do I do the same things you did with the plastic hose,,but in my case i need to put 4 hoses instate of 2 like you?
and how long estimate can take
thank you
@@victorroff7003 Not sure.This video applies to older cars...
Great video. I have a Camaro with a proportioning valve. Does that get hooked up after the MC has been bench bled, or should it be hooked up before hand? If before, how would you seal up all of the ports, as it has 4. Thanks!
Hi. The complete brake system gets assembled first. The last thing that gets installed is the Master Cylinder after its been bench bled.
the reason you want to put the cap back on the brake fluid is because brake fluid is hydroscopic, meaning it will absorb water from the air. water will ruin a brake system. that is why its always recommended to only use brake fluid from a new, unopened bottle.
Agree.Thanks for the input...
Great video , hi Doc ,my 68 mustang six cylinder, I can't remove the brake master cilynder from the push line , there's a retainer or something holding it , any help thanks
Hi.. The rod is anchored to the pedal on the inside of the car. Take a peek under the dash & follow the rod coming thru the firewall and remove the clip. This will allow you to remove the master cylinder with the rod attached to it.Also please sign my petition to get a cable show at: www.thedocneedsashow.com
Chris Ingrassia I did thanks , just now the brake lights stay on , also I signed the petition #122 thanks good luck !!
Thanks Chris, another question: I heard that when removing the master cylinder from the C3 corvettes it can be hard to reinstall the master cylinder without having subsequent leaks at the booster. Once the seal is broken from the booster, it is hard to get a good seal again. Have you had any experience with the C3 corvettes (1974 specifically) where this was a problem? thanks
97widerider Never heard of that being an issue. I have worked on, and have owned many, many Corvettes without having trouble with a seal. Make sure that area is cleaned before reinstalling the Master.
Made the master cylinder squirt on the bench (both lines) but when i put it on the car, only the back line squirted and the front line dripped.......why?......this is installed on my 64 impala
Hmmm. You may have some type of collapse of the front brake hoses not letting the fluid travel thru them. Loosen the line at the hoses..See if fluid comes out before the hoses.
@@MustangRestorationsInc thanks for the reply bro....I only had to add a 3/8 washer! A 3/8 washer had me stressed out for 3 days 😂😂😂
Good video. Very helpful ..as I get ready to put a dual reservoir master cylinder on my '56. Thanks much!
how much force is required to push the cylinder?
Tough to describe. It will feel spring loaded.
Good video. I thought this process was more complicated. Thanks
Took me 45 min to get rid of all the air at the rear.
i dont have vice can blleed differnt way the master clylinder
Sure. Have someone hold the Master Cylinder for you while you bleed it..
DO THE SAME THING HE DID BUT BOLT IT TO THE CAR AND HAVE SOMEONE PUMP THE BRAKES WHILE YOU WATCH FOR LOW FLUID AND AIR BUBBLES. USE THE CLEAR TUBES TO BLEED IT.
Hotel California. Cut up man has got it going on....
Awesome, very helpful.
Thanks the video helps a lot
Mirrors on the ceiling, pink champagne on ice! The volume must be too low cuz the eagles are known blockers and would have the video taken down!
Okay, and the next step is to go over to the vehicle with the dripping master brake cylinder?
I suppose that would be the case if someone was careless & did not wrap the master cylinder with a rag before doing the installation.
Thanks for the comment. Very educational.
You got no audio. :(
Hmmm. Try a different means of looking at the video. The audio is working on this end.
Interesting. I've tried two different browsers and with the volume at max, I can barely hear a muffled but unintelligible voice.
Ok. Thanks for letting me know.. I will look into it.
Thx👍❤️
Just put it on the car and have the wife pump the pedal slowly.. Thats what I do! :)
Never had a issue with that and in ten minutes the wife can go back inside to watch her shows and I can slip the brake lines on. Already ahead of the game :P Then i can have her come back out while I crack open the bleeders and call it done.
Yes your way can be done too.... The bleeding process just gives you a bit of a head start.
I know what you mean about the wife getting back inside to watch her shows too, My wife does the same :)
You can't just use any type of brake fluid as this guy implies. If your system was designed for DOT3, that's what you have to use, etc. And silicone brake fluid should not be used unless you have a special need for it. It was designed for military vehicles.
LOL
Hotel California lol
all this looks easy on tube and incomplete. now trying to do it for real is another story. wasted hours couldn't get air out. need special tools to remove old cylinder. on and on one trouble after another.
Evaporating brake fluid lol. Pass me the blinker fluid.
Leave the cap off the bottle for a few months.... you will see where the level goes...
I find it faster to use a vacuum bleeder
Yes, that works too if you have one.
@@MustangRestorationsInc Thanks for the video Chris.
lol put good clean break fluid NOOOO really i was gonna put used in it.