Definitely disconnect the abs wire and working in the driveway, you’ll need to jack it up enough to get a bottle jack under the knuckle to re-insert the strut. I found cranking on the bottle jack quite high gives a better angle to chisel the knuckle up onto the strut. Also when torquing the pinch bolt, go super slow because the “pinch” will keep collapsing allowing you to over torque. Great video, I wouldn’t be able to do half my repairs without this channel!
Excellent, very detailed video, like all the other ones you've done! My only comment is that when you put the strut back together, the instructions state that you have to align the rubber tab on the bearing (top part of the strut assembly) with the "hook" (bottom part of the strut assembly) that goes into the knuckle that holds the strut in place when you reinstall it in the car. This means that the top end of the spring will not necessarily rest inside the shallowest part of the bearing as stated @ 15:30. Maybe a minor detail, but I thought I'd mention it.
The strut, bearing and top mount have projections on them that u need to line up to have them properly aligned. Then u don't need to eyeball whether the spring sits on the flat part of the bearing
Is it necessary to check the camber alignment after this process? I ask an auto shop near me, and they said we have to check the camber alignment after the process.
I agree! I didn't screw off the axle nut, there's no need to! just put the jack under the axle to support it and to keep it constantly coming down as you extract the shock absorber with the mallet! Using that way you don't need to tie the axle too.. Using a piece of wood between the mallet and the knuckle is a better way.. dents and probable micro-deformations caused by hammering are avoided or at least reduced! Iron vs Iron Is not the top! I'd have disconnected the ABS cable also from the connector to have it completely free and away from the working area.. in video more than one time the cable is at risk and obstacles the operations.. ok, let's go, you left the white cap on the old shock absober, it'd be insert again inside the bottom of the dust boot, it makes turn better the dust boot with the entire shock absorber because it fits over the bottom shock absorber lip.. let's talk about the bearing: it can be bought also in his two separated parts, the upper where there are the three hole to fix to the car (the mounting rubber) and the lower (the bearing) where the spring presses.. the mounting rubber and the bearing have a reference mark, it can be seen also in the video, this marks indicate the inner and must be aligned with the strut assembly... ps: before installing new shock absorber compress it and extend it fully for at least three/five times..
@@1AAuto I didn't screw off the axle nut, there's no need to! just put the jack under the axle to support it and to keep it constantly coming down as you extract the shock absorber with the mallet! Using that way you don't need to tie the axle too.. Using a piece of wood between the mallet and the knuckle is a better way.. dents and probable micro-deformations caused by hammering are avoided or at least reduced! Iron vs Iron Is not the top! I'd have disconnected the ABS cable also from the connector to have it completely free and away from the working area.. in video more than one time the cable is at risk and obstacles the operations.. ok, let's go, you left the white cap on the old shock absober, it'd be insert again inside the bottom of the dust boot, it makes turn better the dust boot with the entire shock absorber because it fits over the bottom shock absorber lip.. let's talk about the bearing: it can be bought also in his two separated parts, the upper where there are the three hole to fix to the car (the mounting rubber) and the lower (the bearing) where the spring presses.. the mounting rubber and the bearing have a reference mark, it can be seen also in the video, this marks indicate the inner and must be aligned with the strut assembly... ps: before installing new shock absorber compress it and extend it fully for at least three/five times..
@@1AAuto i agree there are more ways to accomplish the same repair, some are not properly good than others.. well this one seen on video is not the better way.. also the working technique is not the better.. it can be improved a lot.. learning some tricks.. beginning from a good work planning and showing alternative ways to accomplish the repair.. for example, in case someone hasn't the gun must use the Allen wrench to avoid rotation and screw off with another open wrench... Ok.. good video, but not the best... there is still much room for improvement!
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Definitely disconnect the abs wire and working in the driveway, you’ll need to jack it up enough to get a bottle jack under the knuckle to re-insert the strut. I found cranking on the bottle jack quite high gives a better angle to chisel the knuckle up onto the strut. Also when torquing the pinch bolt, go super slow because the “pinch” will keep collapsing allowing you to over torque. Great video, I wouldn’t be able to do half my repairs without this channel!
Excellent, very detailed video, like all the other ones you've done!
My only comment is that when you put the strut back together, the instructions state that you have to align the rubber tab on the bearing (top part of the strut assembly) with the "hook" (bottom part of the strut assembly) that goes into the knuckle that holds the strut in place when you reinstall it in the car. This means that the top end of the spring will not necessarily rest inside the shallowest part of the bearing as stated @ 15:30. Maybe a minor detail, but I thought I'd mention it.
I watched it two times for him to install both as he advised 😂 Great instruction!
The strut, bearing and top mount have projections on them that u need to line up to have them properly aligned. Then u don't need to eyeball whether the spring sits on the flat part of the bearing
Nice work & well shot.
Thanks! This helped out a whole lot.
Excellent tutorial! Very detailed. Thanks
Do you have a list of which nuts need to be torqued to which value?
Thanks this help alot on my mazada 3 2005
I think you need to review the top mounting alignment to the spring. I did base on you instructions but i think it is wrong .
A strut spreader would've aided in removing the strut more quickly.
Is it necessary to check the camber alignment after this process? I ask an auto shop near me, and they said we have to check the camber alignment after the process.
Yes an alignment in needed. You can get away without doing an alignment if you re-use the old coil springs when you change the struts.
@@bobsoft Wrong. These bolts are fixed in place. If done correctly, an alignment is not needed, though recommended after any suspension job
I just got an alignment done, but I may need to change the front struts. Would I need to get an alignment again after this? For my 2010 Mazda 3
yes most definitely!
Yup
why not just unplug the abs wire?
+inee107 Thanks for the tip!
You do not need to remove the axle nut and hub to change the strut. Please stop giving wrong information.
+mr2cqql We appreciate the feedback. Sometimes there are multiple ways to accomplish the same repair.
@@1AAuto Nice tricks with brass punch
I agree! I didn't screw off the axle nut, there's no need to! just put the jack under the axle to support it and to keep it constantly coming down as you extract the shock absorber with the mallet! Using that way you don't need to tie the axle too.. Using a piece of wood between the mallet and the knuckle is a better way.. dents and probable micro-deformations caused by hammering are avoided or at least reduced! Iron vs Iron Is not the top! I'd have disconnected the ABS cable also from the connector to have it completely free and away from the working area.. in video more than one time the cable is at risk and obstacles the operations.. ok, let's go, you left the white cap on the old shock absober, it'd be insert again inside the bottom of the dust boot, it makes turn better the dust boot with the entire shock absorber because it fits over the bottom shock absorber lip.. let's talk about the bearing: it can be bought also in his two separated parts, the upper where there are the three hole to fix to the car (the mounting rubber) and the lower (the bearing) where the spring presses.. the mounting rubber and the bearing have a reference mark, it can be seen also in the video, this marks indicate the inner and must be aligned with the strut assembly...
ps: before installing new shock absorber compress it and extend it fully for at least three/five times..
@@1AAuto I didn't screw off the axle nut, there's no need to! just put the jack under the axle to support it and to keep it constantly coming down as you extract the shock absorber with the mallet! Using that way you don't need to tie the axle too.. Using a piece of wood between the mallet and the knuckle is a better way.. dents and probable micro-deformations caused by hammering are avoided or at least reduced! Iron vs Iron Is not the top! I'd have disconnected the ABS cable also from the connector to have it completely free and away from the working area.. in video more than one time the cable is at risk and obstacles the operations.. ok, let's go, you left the white cap on the old shock absober, it'd be insert again inside the bottom of the dust boot, it makes turn better the dust boot with the entire shock absorber because it fits over the bottom shock absorber lip.. let's talk about the bearing: it can be bought also in his two separated parts, the upper where there are the three hole to fix to the car (the mounting rubber) and the lower (the bearing) where the spring presses.. the mounting rubber and the bearing have a reference mark, it can be seen also in the video, this marks indicate the inner and must be aligned with the strut assembly...
ps: before installing new shock absorber compress it and extend it fully for at least three/five times..
@@1AAuto i agree there are more ways to accomplish the same repair, some are not properly good than others.. well this one seen on video is not the better way.. also the working technique is not the better.. it can be improved a lot.. learning some tricks.. beginning from a good work planning and showing alternative ways to accomplish the repair.. for example, in case someone hasn't the gun must use the Allen wrench to avoid rotation and screw off with another open wrench...
Ok.. good video, but not the best... there is still much room for improvement!