Fantastic video. I recently had my 9000 serviced for $900. They fixed the 2 doors (wouldn't open or close), replaced the cassette heads, replaced any belts, replaced a few burned out bulbs, replaced a couple of touch switches. Not a bad price for using the unit from 1986 until 2015 every day. Your cost guess was spot on. Bought new in 1986 for $3600 U.S. dollars. Canadian would have been higher. All the programming functions still work well. I used to have my R-T-R recorder hooked to Tape 2 input. Now I have my iPod hooked to Aux input. Phono is still used for records. It provides 35 watts output to my two Wharfdale W60D speakers which I purchased in 1968. You certainly have a great ability for audio system repair. Thanks for posting the video. I enjoyed seeing the insides of the unit. I took the unit to B&O in Boston for service. There also are a few service centers around the South Shore of Massachusetts. Have @davejmw call B&O for referrals. I had to wait 3 months for the parts from Norway.
This is my era and I am a fan of the older Bang and Olufsen products. I have owned the Beosound 9000 (6 cd changer), Beocenter 2500, Beolab 6000, 7000 cd player and receiver and a RX-2 turntable. Loved their products from back in the day!
Great Tips Marc! I noticed that "prop rod" when I was finally closing up the unit and took a little head scratching before realizing it has the exact same function as the hood prop rod on a vehicle. The B&O design engineers once again impress.
Hello, I have sat in burnin at B&O on Beocenter 9000 to 9500, the big print is the tape part, the touch is under the glass plate together with the motor control for the doors... And yes, the smell is fantastic, I was in factory 4 where it was assembled and tested , I can promise you that the scent you are talking about was present there, it is a scent I will never forget as long as I live, I have my own workshop today where I repair everything up to the mid 90s, I don't want anything to do with the new in any way..
It was nice to see a product that can be serviced. It was nice to see it working when it was opened, can't do that on a iPod. I used to be a B&O seller back in the 1970s. I gave up the account when they got taken over by Phillips and they renegotiated the service contracts so that sellers had to employ engineers. The quality control also went bad and I remember opening 8 x Beomaster 4000's to find one that worked. I'm glad that they didn't get worse.
@@Rchelicopterfun At the time it was seen as a company shooting It's self in the foot so to speak. I did a lot of trade withe the Soviet Trade Delegation and they used to ship it back to the Soviet Union. I think crunch time came when I opened a batch of B&O equipment and found 90% of it DOA. It was sad to see what happened when a company removes quality control from it's final production. The company did make a come back but it was too late for most dealers.
Thanks John for a really helpful video. I used it to replace a single cap under the CD mech, so my 9000 is now back to playing CDs! I have a few more ideas about modifying this system for the 22nd century, but those are just dreams for now!
I had the pleasure of a 1986 Beocenter 9000 being passed to me to look at. The CD player was failing to recognise a disk's presence. It would spin up after loading a disk but then slide its door open again. A lens clean and a new disk didnt work. (This video helped a lot to give me the heads up on safe deconstruction and what to expect - many thanks!) I removed and deconstructed the CD unit and reseated all connectors within the CD assembly and to the main system boards. It now all works without "repair". The problem must have been either badly seated connectors or oxidised contacts or failing solder joints (which got moved whilst working on it)???. Sorry I can't give an exact solution on here but its happy times for the owner! + Many thanks for your help
You done a great video on this item, btw if you are still the proud owner of this Beocenter and you open it up it has a stay that latches into slots on the side of the unit near the mains transformer.
Yep, still got it and it's still working great. Thanks for the info on the prop rod - several others have mentioned that as well, so next time (if there is a next time) I have to open it, I'll be sure to use it 🙂
Nice video. I like the method of quickly heating the board to expand it and any soldier joints to hopefully connect any loose connections. I'll have to remember that next time. Thanks!
Nice. I remember those B&O products from when I was a teen. They were always very expensive, but awe-inspiring in the design. I once had a chance to hold a remote for one, might have been at a visit to a relative, cannot remember exactly, and the remote was like holding a slab of stone, it was so sturdy and heavy. But it still had rubber buttons which felt a bit strange :) I do remember reading some reviews at some point that mentioned, like you said, that the sound was not quite so top-notch as the design and price might indicate.
Nice set, I have repaired a few BEO 2200's and yes the smell of the 80's electronics is wonderful, especially after they have been on for a while. Nice job. Yes a cam is a must for the scope, or try a digitized one with an lcd screen, there are USB ones available now with decent magnification for such streaming of repairs! Good job!
Thank you much for this video! I have had my 9000 for about twenty years, and it still works, but both doors have a hard time closing. Just the info about opening the unit was very helpful. I have a B&O cd changer hooked to it, but now I feel confidant about looking inside to see if I can repair the sluggish door closings. I have 5500, 5000 system as well, and have changed the belts on several cassette units over the years. I may have to ask you more questions, but for now, once again, Thank you so much for this info, Best, Bill
most early philips cd players suffered from bad solder joints for the ground connections which were through the board and caused numerous faults so if you have any problems just resolder all these joints and it should solve most problems, later b&o products were mainly philips that were played with and made to sound or perform better in a posh box
O wow this brings back memories, Used to work at a authorized service center for B&O and Loewe here in South Africa, There design were awesome, neat and compact. I was astounded to see that the lazer still works that was usually the first thing to go. Very nice video and repair :-)
Wrong. Philips lasers in swingarm cdms almost never dies unless someone plays around the laser adjustments and burn them. Change the famous cap on the servoboard and resolder bad joints, and you're good to go another 30 years :)
@@AnonymousRepair I bet you did, as they are not remotely similar to the Beocenter 9000/9500/8000/8500. The Beosound 9000 and 3200 had Chinese made linear moving Philips cdm that was just crap. You should know this if you had serviced these units.
Thanks to your video I managed to get my 9300 to operate again : one speaker stopped producing sound. After opening the unit I pressed on all the connectors and the smallish pcb board (the pcb board for the connectors is soundly secured and I did not want to delve into dismantling it). I have three remarks: - on the 9300 there are two types of screw on the rear : philips & trax. - one must be careful when opening the unit as the glass panels may not be soundly fixed after 30 or 40 years. Secure with masking tape before opening. - You may want to replace the rubber pads under the unit: regular faucet rubber gaskets worked for me.
Hifi engine is a decent source of info. Good number of manuals for download. At this age dry joints are pretty prevalent. Especially in areas near components that get warm. B&O parts silly prices. I have knocked by B&O gear that has been for peanuts simply because the spares prices were unjustifiable. They are pretty fantastic looking pieces of kit.
That was an easy fix!!.. nice job, design icons those B&O systems, so tempted to buy one of eBay but I don’t know what I would do with it? Apart from awe at its design lol.
Excellent. Realy useful video and explantiion for me. Just got a 9300 and 4000 from a friend but it was damaged in transit. The 9300 has a CD read issue. So your video is top. The Beogram 4000 has a stylus flop issue what I'm trying to get advice on..
When i turned my Beocenter 9300 buttom up, the lower glass panel came off. The adhesiveness of the adhesive keeping the glass panel in place has obviously degraded over the years. Luckily, i caught the glass panel before it hit the ground, so no harm was done, and i could put it back in good order. You may not be as fortunate ...
CD cover wasn't closing, I followed your excellent video and looked around, motor sounded like it was working, then I saw IT...the rubber rotary connector ( not sure of the correct name ) had crumbled from old age. I used a pony tail hair band as a temp...it works....any ideas where I can get two replacements one for the CD & tape deck???
It is popular belief among many that Bang and Olufsen only offered reasonable sound quality, not worth their pricing. Much had to do with its excellent styling, easy to think that B&O's philosophy is all styling over substance. The audiophile media used to snuff their noses at B&O. But the truth is that these are false assumptions. While B&O's sound quality mostly did not compete with the best stuff on earth that cost even way more than B&O, this was top gear, not only in looks but also in performance. Their TV's had among the best color and picture quality, their cassette decks were on par with Nakamichi, that's right, on par with Nakamichi (because they had an in-house developed noise reduction that was superior to Dolby), their tuners were sensitive and strong receivers, their record players and tonearms had fantastic stats and were outfitted with very high quality Ortofon cartridges. Their amps were not particularly high quality but B&O (correctly) considered amps to be the strongest link in the quality chain of most systems and therefor found them to be the least important to improve upon. Only their speakers were considered to not be worth the money and considerably of lesser sound quality than the rest of the B&O lines. B&O was and in some respects still is a fantastic electronics company.
There is an arm, along the top of the cover part that you swing out and brace on the side where the power supply is and it keep the cover in place. Similar to how a piano cover is held in an open position.
Hi John, 19 years ago I moved from New Jersey to Florida, I recently opened a box in storage and lo and behold my Beocenter 9000 was in there! I have the remote but none of the speakers....I left them in my former home because they were built into the walls. I'm wondering where I can get it repaired and if it's worth the money to repair it. IT IS SUCH A BEAUTIFUL DESIGN! I have no idea how much it's worth, can you give me some idea of it's value? Thank you for that great video also.... Sincerely Linn
I would search for "stereo repair" or "B&O service center" in your specific area. It doesn't have to necessarily be an authorized B&O service center however since this older stuff is fairly easy to work on and it's of course well out of warranty. Call several stereo repair shops up and ask if they work on older B&O & if they would be able to diagnose & repair a B&O beocenter 9000. As for what it's worth - I really have no idea since it's very location dependent. You usually see working ones in good condition listed on eBay ranging from around $500 up to $1000 USD.
Hi John Great video, I too have one of these beautiful machines (9500) it also is in lovely condition. My beocenter has recently developed exactly the same fault as yours, using your video I was able to open the machine and sure enough when I pressed on the same part of the circuit board as you the cd played.It seems the solder joints have come away from the pins and need re-soldering. Unfortunately I was not able to remove the board from the case, I removed the screws and loosened the circuit board and removed the leads but got stuck where the 2 long screws holding the board to the alloy frame, the board was still attached to the black grill (not sure what to call it) on the end which is too big to slide under the alloy frame (which the tall screws attach to). Any advice on how to remove this board for re-soldering would be really appreciated John as these machines are getting rarer and deserve to be preserved for future generations. Many Thanks Gary
I've never seen the way the board is mounted in the 9500 model. In this 9000 Beocenter model the board came out easy with the removal of 4 screws in each corner of the board.
These are great , & mine is still alive after so many years of service. the later models I.e 9300 and 9500 were not so well built. No phono preamp and lack of aux inputs. My only grudge CD CD does not like CDR or CDRW discs.
None of the LED's on the display have stopped working so no I've never replaced them. Never replaced any battery either - didn't even know it had one. I've only had to do one repair to this unit since I've owned it and that was the cold solder joint fix in this video.
Im very late to this video but, my god. That thing looks new. Like if it was made today. Not in the 80s. And knowing how cassette technology took a nosedive after the mid 80s, it is probably still very high end too
Hi John! that is a great video! I am trying to do a clamper adjustment on my Beocenter 9300 - The Service Manual says: "Set Top panel in Service Position" - When watching your video I saw that in the "Service Position" you used there was no access o the clamper - correct? So I guess there must be a way to get access to the "Front Cover" - Any Ideas?
I just took my 9300 out of mothballs after 13 years. Using the 8 pin DIN to Penta III’s I get just a little volume with the receiver maxed (tested with CD & Radio). Plug a 1/8” in the Headphones, to RCA’s in the Penta’s - full volume available. Might it be a “mute relay problem”? When I activate “MUTE” button, no click from within the unit (should be able to hear it, right? My buddy is the electronics guru - I just want to know where that relay is located. Thanks!
Hi John Great video thanks. I have an old bang and olufsen from the 1970s looks like a beomaster 1000 or 1500. The turntable does not spin when the power is on. Any idea how I can check the belt is on? Am in Scotland, cheers tim
I just acquired a BeoCenter 9300. The Guy said the left channel went out and then a month later, the right channel. Not sure where the output transistors or IC's are. Don't know if they used discrete components or output IC's like the Sanyo STK series? I looked around and can't seem to locate schematics. Any thoughts on where to start? One place had Schematics for a fee, pair and it wouldn't download. Guess hey got me.
when i was a teen a few of my friends had a kick azz stereo systems in their living rooms i wanted to move up from our cheap morse electrofonic 8track all in one unit lol!!
Hi. Thanks for video. I've bought a beocenter 9000, fixed the cd and tape drawers a bit fiddly but all good (also had to repair and refoam the accompanying Beovox S55 speakers) however I've noticed I get an audible hum from the unit (not the loudspeakers) after around an hour of the mains being switched on. The hum/buzz sounds very similar to what you would get from a lighting dimmer switch, namely the cheaper leading edge dimmers. Do you think it could be mains transformer? Weirdly sometimes it's not a problem and the hum doesn't happen at all and can be left on or on standby without a problem. Problem only arises when it's switched off at the mains (and when that happens the buzzing persists even when on standby) Any thoughts or tips would be very much appreciated. Getting close to it being fully functional so would love to weed out this gremlin. Thanks
I'm not a repair tech, just a hobbyist so no concreate ideas. If were mine, I'd of course open it up and identify exactly where the humming/buzzing sound is coming from. The fact it even does it in standby mode however, would sure lead me to your thought about the power supply since it's the only thing that is powered up while in standby mode. Perhaps the transformer is going or one or more of the electrolytic caps has pooped its goo.
I knew someone that had one when they came out and I thought it something out of star trek. I was gobsmacked with it. And I thought my Amstrad 104 with vertical record deck was the bollocks. 😀
Hi Thanks for that very in-depth video buddy. I have the 9300 with a cd issue. When the door closes the cd spins up but the stops and the door opens again ,when it's spinning the counter does nothing so it's like it's not reading the disc ? Any ideas please ? . Dave UK. 👍
It could be that the motor speed is not getting to it's optimum revs, the speed is controlled by a voltage controlled oscillator feedback mechanism for want of better words. Back in the early days of cd players this was how the speed was maintained to read the disc to get the correct data levels out for decoding. I would say either adjust or tweek the pot of the cd player motor, follow the wiring for the cd's motor and see if the pot is labelled as such (VSCO motor etc.) try that first, or try cleaning the optic lense with a q-tip also. It still may need a new motor, just because it spins does not mean it's correct.
Is this the same as in the "National lampoon's Christmas vacation" movie when "Obviously something broke the window and something hit the stereo" (line from the movie)? I always wanted to know which stereo was it.
You accidentally typed your question into the YT comment box instead of the Google search box. Hint, yes it's Bang & Olufsen equipment, but not the BeoCenter 9000 as shown here. Divide that number by 2 and you'll have part of your answer. Add "BeoSystem" in front of that number and you'll have your full answer. The system in the movie was likely comprised of the BeoMaster, BeoGram, BeoGram CD, and perhaps the BeoCord.
@@Rchelicopterfun hahahaha yes, I did. Later it came to my mind that google knows it all and I searched. People say the same thing that you said and also that in the movie they probably did not destroy the real thing, just the case. They say that electronics are not from B&O system. Anyway, thank you for your search :D.
Hi, a friend of mine gave me one of these and everything seems to work fine except for the cd. The CD door is broken i have to move it with my hand but the thing is that the timer doesn't start like yours, any idea of what it could be, i'm not a geek for this stuff and not an expert of electronics but i'd like to try and fix it my self. Thanks in advance
Sorry, no concrete ideas there... Does the CD even spin up? If not, then the CD drive or the circuit controlling it is likely shot. If it spins up, then the laser head/associated circuit is likely shot.On older stuff like this, I would of course look for basic obvious stuff like cold solder joints or poor wiring/connectors, like I found on this one, but I'm no service tech of course, just a hobbyist.
What nonsense, the only thing there is a philips CD running gear and D/A, everything else is made by B&O and I can tell you that as I have sat with it myself at factory 4 in Struer.
@@pavelstoikov3780 Your argument is so extremely strong against my concern, I am not sure anymore, let's check... Wait! Wikipedia indicates for "Microfiber", in the second paragraph, its electrostatic properties. And if you look further on internet (obviously, you prefer sarcasm over fact checking, so you will not do it), it is due to the size of the fibers and the fact they are split. But I am sure you will then deny the existence of ESD, until you fry something expensive like I did. I only hope some will be informed.
Hi, sr. John. I have a beocenter 9300 . when I power on, it's on with all. all volume I am a techician and I changed the lithiun batery of 3. volts but continued the same, thank you for help me in this case damage I waiting for your answer thanks so much.
I'm not a tech, just a hobbyist and without a proper schematic to fault trace the circuit, the only suggestion I would have is to follow the power input with a DMM in hopes you can find the source of the power interruption between the power supply and the rest of the unit.
Remove the power PCB with the main filter caps and bridge rectifiers (next to the power transformer) and resolder the filter cap joints - very common to have cracked joints on this board, with those symptoms. Go over the whole power board and reflow anything cracked (use a magnifier)
Hi Jim, It's an Amscope 7x to 45X zoom stereo scope (amzn.to/2VdlsDu). I do however use a 0.5X barlow lens (amzn.to/2SrHVL9) on it when doing electronics work to half the magnification and double both the field of view as well as the working distance from the stage. So a 3.5 to 22.5X zoom range which I find a perfect range for circuit board & SMD type work. Magnification power really depends on how good your eyes are and the type of electronics you are doing. Before I got this scope, I got by for years with one of those 2X desk mounted magnifying lamps, but as age has crept up and SMD stuff is getting smaller and tighter on the boards, 2X magnification just wasn't cutting it and I was screwing more and more stuff up, so figured investing in a decent stereo scope would pay for itself in short order (which it certainly has). I'm however no electronics pro - it's just a very part time DIY fixing hobby more than anything. I did do a fair amount of research however on stereo scopes to find out what other electronic's hobbyist were using and Amscope's SM series kept coming up very favorably in all the forums and videos. They are low cost, good quality, and come in many configurations. Most serious electronic's hobbyists use the dual arm boom type however (more working area), with the better ring type lamps (no shadows). I decided on that much less expensive SM-2T-6wb one (and was able to convince the wife as well we needed it) because it has both top & bottom stage illumination. I mostly use top for all my electronics and mechanical inspection work, but it's nice to have the bottom as well for when the wife uses it for looking at slides / biological stuff. Neat thing with the SM series scopes is all the parts are available separately so I could eventually put the head (the most costly part), on a dual slide arm base, and get a proper ring lamp.
@@Rchelicopterfun you who know, but TH-cam AI might even like it. :) Just meant that the AI is often dam fast to do a strike, there are those who got a strike for only a few seconds which is just ridiculous. Great video btw! And you should have some luck now and then. :)
@@paulvink4338 some people like B&O and some people don't. When I was 19 years old, I would stop in the audio stores just to look at their products and definitely couldn't afford it then, but I knew one day I would purchase something by them. And now I have owned many pieces by them and have not been disappointed with my purchases. You will always have people that would ask you why would you pay so much money for their products? Because it's my money!
![[MV] A leap of faith...ความเชื่อใจครั้งสุดท้าย (From "Petrichor the series")](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U1piZH2CNXA/mqdefault.jpg)
Fantastic video. I recently had my 9000 serviced for $900. They fixed the 2 doors (wouldn't open or close), replaced the cassette heads, replaced any belts, replaced a few burned out bulbs, replaced a couple of touch switches. Not a bad price for using the unit from 1986 until 2015 every day. Your cost guess was spot on. Bought new in 1986 for $3600 U.S. dollars. Canadian would have been higher. All the programming functions still work well. I used to have my R-T-R recorder hooked to Tape 2 input. Now I have my iPod hooked to Aux input. Phono is still used for records. It provides 35 watts output to my two Wharfdale W60D speakers which I purchased in 1968. You certainly have a great ability for audio system repair. Thanks for posting the video. I enjoyed seeing the insides of the unit. I took the unit to B&O in Boston for service. There also are a few service centers around the South Shore of Massachusetts. Have @davejmw call B&O for referrals. I had to wait 3 months for the parts from Norway.
Amazing how neat everything is on the inside...B&O makes incredible audio and video products.
well, used to philips panels in the TVs, these days I think it’s samsung.
This is my era and I am a fan of the older Bang and Olufsen products. I have owned the Beosound 9000 (6 cd changer), Beocenter 2500, Beolab 6000, 7000 cd player and receiver and a RX-2 turntable. Loved their products from back in the day!
Great Tips Marc! I noticed that "prop rod" when I was finally closing up the unit and took a little head scratching before realizing it has the exact same function as the hood prop rod on a vehicle. The B&O design engineers once again impress.
"Why is the floor wet Todd?" "I don't know Margo!"
Classic! 👍😄
Hello, I have sat in burnin at B&O on Beocenter 9000 to 9500, the big print is the tape part, the touch is under the glass plate together with the motor control for the doors... And yes, the smell is fantastic, I was in factory 4 where it was assembled and tested , I can promise you that the scent you are talking about was present there, it is a scent I will never forget as long as I live, I have my own workshop today where I repair everything up to the mid 90s, I don't want anything to do with the new in any way..
Unfortunately, devices of this quality are no longer built today. I own a Beocenter 9500, along with a Beogram 5500, which I don't give away.
It was nice to see a product that can be serviced. It was nice to see it working when it was opened, can't do that on a iPod.
I used to be a B&O seller back in the 1970s. I gave up the account when they got taken over by Phillips and they renegotiated the service contracts so that sellers had to employ engineers. The quality control also went bad and I remember opening 8 x Beomaster 4000's to find one that worked.
I'm glad that they didn't get worse.
Thanks for taking the time to share that interesting B&O background. Much appreciated.
@@Rchelicopterfun At the time it was seen as a company shooting It's self in the foot so to speak. I did a lot of trade withe the Soviet Trade Delegation and they used to ship it back to the Soviet Union. I think crunch time came when I opened a batch of B&O equipment and found 90% of it DOA. It was sad to see what happened when a company removes quality control from it's final production. The company did make a come back but it was too late for most dealers.
Taken over by Philips?
@@thor7564 Yes, I don't know who owns the company now.
@@jeremytravis360 owned is to stretch it a bit far. Philips had 25% of the shares in B&O :)
Great fix, as a kid of the 80's I have always loved 80's electronics The BeoCentre 9000 is such an amazing system
It's even got a hood prop/stay, like you might find on the hood/bonnet of a motor vehicle.
How cool is that !
Thanks John for a really helpful video. I used it to replace a single cap under the CD mech, so my 9000 is now back to playing CDs! I have a few more ideas about modifying this system for the 22nd century, but those are just dreams for now!
I had the pleasure of a 1986 Beocenter 9000 being passed to me to look at. The CD player was failing to recognise a disk's presence. It would spin up after loading a disk but then slide its door open again. A lens clean and a new disk didnt work. (This video helped a lot to give me the heads up on safe deconstruction and what to expect - many thanks!) I removed and deconstructed the CD unit and reseated all connectors within the CD assembly and to the main system boards. It now all works without "repair". The problem must have been either badly seated connectors or oxidised contacts or failing solder joints (which got moved whilst working on it)???. Sorry I can't give an exact solution on here but its happy times for the owner! + Many thanks for your help
Well done . Thank you for preserving these magnificent emotional devices.
You done a great video on this item, btw if you are still the proud owner of this Beocenter and you open it up it has a stay that latches into slots on the side of the unit near the mains transformer.
Yep, still got it and it's still working great. Thanks for the info on the prop rod - several others have mentioned that as well, so next time (if there is a next time) I have to open it, I'll be sure to use it 🙂
Nice video. I like the method of quickly heating the board to expand it and any soldier joints to hopefully connect any loose connections. I'll have to remember that next time. Thanks!
Nice. I remember those B&O products from when I was a teen. They were always very expensive, but awe-inspiring in the design. I once had a chance to hold a remote for one, might have been at a visit to a relative, cannot remember exactly, and the remote was like holding a slab of stone, it was so sturdy and heavy. But it still had rubber buttons which felt a bit strange :) I do remember reading some reviews at some point that mentioned, like you said, that the sound was not quite so top-notch as the design and price might indicate.
I fully agree with you B&O knows how to make art of your music centers
Nice set, I have repaired a few BEO 2200's and yes the smell of the 80's electronics is wonderful, especially after they have been on for a while. Nice job. Yes a cam is a must for the scope, or try a digitized one with an lcd screen, there are USB ones available now with decent magnification for such streaming of repairs! Good job!
Thank you much for this video! I have had my 9000 for about twenty years, and it still works, but both doors have a hard time closing. Just the info about opening the unit was very helpful. I have a B&O cd changer hooked to it, but now I feel confidant about looking inside to see if I can repair the sluggish door closings. I have 5500, 5000 system as well, and have changed the belts on several cassette units over the years. I may have to ask you more questions, but for now, once again, Thank you so much for this info, Best, Bill
Great video ... I have one that has a bad CD door that won't open .. any ideas on what to look for .
most early philips cd players suffered from bad solder joints for the ground connections which were through the board and caused numerous faults so if you have any problems just resolder all these joints and it should solve most problems, later b&o products were mainly philips that were played with and made to sound or perform better in a posh box
Good to know.
Your last sentence is wrong ;)
O wow this brings back memories, Used to work at a authorized service center for B&O and Loewe here in South Africa, There design were awesome, neat and compact. I was astounded to see that the lazer still works that was usually the first thing to go. Very nice video and repair :-)
Glad to hear from an experienced pro about the B&O. Yep, they were an awesome design. Thanks for taking the time to comment :-)
Wrong. Philips lasers in swingarm cdms almost never dies unless someone plays around the laser adjustments and burn them. Change the famous cap on the servoboard and resolder bad joints, and you're good to go another 30 years :)
@@thor7564 We used to repair a lot of BeoSound 9000 & BeoSound 3200
@@AnonymousRepair I bet you did, as they are not remotely similar to the Beocenter 9000/9500/8000/8500. The Beosound 9000 and 3200 had Chinese made linear moving Philips cdm that was just crap. You should know this if you had serviced these units.
nice work! it's good to see stuff like this repaired and keep alive...
Thanks!
oooh that sliding door mechanism is sooo nice
Great diagnostic work and a simple fix.
Like your Oxygene profile image :-) Jean Michel Jarre is a legend.
Thanks to your video I managed to get my 9300 to operate again : one speaker stopped producing sound. After opening the unit I pressed on all the connectors and the smallish pcb board (the pcb board for the connectors is soundly secured and I did not want to delve into dismantling it).
I have three remarks:
- on the 9300 there are two types of screw on the rear : philips & trax.
- one must be careful when opening the unit as the glass panels may not be soundly fixed after 30 or 40 years. Secure with masking tape before opening.
- You may want to replace the rubber pads under the unit: regular faucet rubber gaskets worked for me.
Hifi engine is a decent source of info. Good number of manuals for download. At this age dry joints are pretty prevalent. Especially in areas near components that get warm. B&O parts silly prices. I have knocked by B&O gear that has been for peanuts simply because the spares prices were unjustifiable. They are pretty fantastic looking pieces of kit.
That was an easy fix!!.. nice job, design icons those B&O systems, so tempted to buy one of eBay but I don’t know what I would do with it? Apart from awe at its design lol.
Excellent. Realy useful video and explantiion for me. Just got a 9300 and 4000 from a friend but it was damaged in transit. The 9300 has a CD read issue. So your video is top. The Beogram 4000 has a stylus flop issue what I'm trying to get advice on..
When i turned my Beocenter 9300 buttom up, the lower glass panel came off. The adhesiveness of the adhesive keeping the glass panel in place has obviously degraded over the years. Luckily, i caught the glass panel before it hit the ground, so no harm was done, and i could put it back in good order. You may not be as fortunate ...
Thanks man, i can fix mine only i watch your Video. Gread Job. ❤
Glad to hear that
CD cover wasn't closing, I followed your excellent video and looked around, motor sounded like it was working, then I saw IT...the rubber rotary connector ( not sure of the correct name ) had crumbled from old age. I used a pony tail hair band as a temp...it works....any ideas where I can get two replacements one for the CD & tape deck???
Super help. Just allowed me to repair lid function of CD player!
What was your issue and how did you solve it
It is popular belief among many that Bang and Olufsen only offered reasonable sound quality, not worth their pricing. Much had to do with its excellent styling, easy to think that B&O's philosophy is all styling over substance. The audiophile media used to snuff their noses at B&O. But the truth is that these are false assumptions. While B&O's sound quality mostly did not compete with the best stuff on earth that cost even way more than B&O, this was top gear, not only in looks but also in performance. Their TV's had among the best color and picture quality, their cassette decks were on par with Nakamichi, that's right, on par with Nakamichi (because they had an in-house developed noise reduction that was superior to Dolby), their tuners were sensitive and strong receivers, their record players and tonearms had fantastic stats and were outfitted with very high quality Ortofon cartridges. Their amps were not particularly high quality but B&O (correctly) considered amps to be the strongest link in the quality chain of most systems and therefor found them to be the least important to improve upon. Only their speakers were considered to not be worth the money and considerably of lesser sound quality than the rest of the B&O lines.
B&O was and in some respects still is a fantastic electronics company.
There is an arm, along the top of the cover part that you swing out and brace on the side where the power supply is and it keep the cover in place. Similar to how a piano cover is held in an open position.
Yep, a "prop rod"
Hi John,
19 years ago I moved from New Jersey to Florida, I recently opened a box in storage and lo and behold
my Beocenter 9000 was in there! I have the remote but none of the speakers....I left them in my former home because they were built into the walls.
I'm wondering where I can get it repaired and if it's worth the money to repair it. IT IS SUCH A BEAUTIFUL DESIGN! I have no idea how much it's worth, can you give me some idea of it's value?
Thank you for that great video also....
Sincerely
Linn
I would search for "stereo repair" or "B&O service center" in your specific area. It doesn't have to necessarily be an authorized B&O service center however since this older stuff is fairly easy to work on and it's of course well out of warranty. Call several stereo repair shops up and ask if they work on older B&O & if they would be able to diagnose & repair a B&O beocenter 9000.
As for what it's worth - I really have no idea since it's very location dependent. You usually see working ones in good condition listed on eBay ranging from around $500 up to $1000 USD.
@@Rchelicopterfun Thank you so much for replying so quickly
Much appreciated
Hi John
Great video, I too have one of these beautiful machines (9500) it also is in lovely condition. My beocenter has recently developed exactly the same fault as yours, using your video I was able to open the machine and sure enough when I pressed on the same part of the circuit board as you the cd played.It seems the solder joints have come away from the pins and need re-soldering.
Unfortunately I was not able to remove the board from the case, I removed the screws and loosened the circuit board and removed the leads but got stuck where the 2 long screws holding the board to the alloy frame, the board was still attached to the black grill (not sure what to call it) on the end which is too big to slide under the alloy frame (which the tall screws attach to).
Any advice on how to remove this board for re-soldering would be really appreciated John as these machines are getting rarer and deserve to be preserved for future generations.
Many Thanks
Gary
I've never seen the way the board is mounted in the 9500 model. In this 9000 Beocenter model the board came out easy with the removal of 4 screws in each corner of the board.
Great video,very nice stereo inside and out
These are great , & mine is still alive after so many years of service. the later models I.e 9300 and 9500 were not so well built. No phono preamp and lack of aux inputs. My only grudge CD CD does not like CDR or CDRW discs.
9500 has a phono preamp
Why do people state things as facts when they don't have a clue?
Did you ever replace the burned out 1-20 number lights? Have you replaced the lithium memory battery?
None of the LED's on the display have stopped working so no I've never replaced them. Never replaced any battery either - didn't even know it had one. I've only had to do one repair to this unit since I've owned it and that was the cold solder joint fix in this video.
Im very late to this video but, my god.
That thing looks new. Like if it was made today. Not in the 80s. And knowing how cassette technology took a nosedive after the mid 80s, it is probably still very high end too
Dolby b c hx pro autoreverse.
I've still got my 9000 nd all is still working too.
Hi John! that is a great video! I am trying to do a clamper adjustment on my Beocenter 9300 - The Service Manual says: "Set Top panel in Service Position" - When watching your video I saw that in the "Service Position" you used there was no access o the clamper - correct? So I guess there must be a way to get access to the "Front Cover" - Any Ideas?
Sorry - No idea what a "clamper" is? My unit was also missing the prop-rod that holds the top case half open while in the service position.
For the price of these there's an lot of plastic with thin aluminium on them I've got the old 2200 cassette deck but the inside seems very well made
I just took my 9300 out of mothballs after 13 years. Using the 8 pin DIN to Penta III’s I get just a little volume with the receiver maxed (tested with CD & Radio).
Plug a 1/8” in the Headphones, to RCA’s in the Penta’s - full volume available. Might it be a “mute relay problem”? When I activate “MUTE” button, no click from within the unit (should be able to hear it, right?
My buddy is the electronics guru - I just want to know where that relay is located. Thanks!
Hi John Great video thanks. I have an old bang and olufsen from the 1970s looks like a beomaster 1000 or 1500. The turntable does not spin when the power is on. Any idea how I can check the belt is on? Am in Scotland, cheers tim
I just acquired a BeoCenter 9300. The Guy said the left channel went out and then a month later, the right channel. Not sure where the output transistors or IC's are. Don't know if they used discrete components or output IC's like the Sanyo STK series? I looked around and can't seem to locate schematics. Any thoughts on where to start? One place had Schematics for a fee, pair and it wouldn't download. Guess hey got me.
when i was a teen a few of my friends had a kick azz stereo systems in their living rooms i wanted to move up from our cheap morse electrofonic 8track all in one unit lol!!
Hi. Thanks for video. I've bought a beocenter 9000, fixed the cd and tape drawers a bit fiddly but all good (also had to repair and refoam the accompanying Beovox S55 speakers) however I've noticed I get an audible hum from the unit (not the loudspeakers) after around an hour of the mains being switched on. The hum/buzz sounds very similar to what you would get from a lighting dimmer switch, namely the cheaper leading edge dimmers.
Do you think it could be mains transformer?
Weirdly sometimes it's not a problem and the hum doesn't happen at all and can be left on or on standby without a problem. Problem only arises when it's switched off at the mains (and when that happens the buzzing persists even when on standby)
Any thoughts or tips would be very much appreciated. Getting close to it being fully functional so would love to weed out this gremlin.
Thanks
I'm not a repair tech, just a hobbyist so no concreate ideas. If were mine, I'd of course open it up and identify exactly where the humming/buzzing sound is coming from. The fact it even does it in standby mode however, would sure lead me to your thought about the power supply since it's the only thing that is powered up while in standby mode. Perhaps the transformer is going or one or more of the electrolytic caps has pooped its goo.
I knew someone that had one when they came out and I thought it something out of star trek. I was gobsmacked with it. And I thought my Amstrad 104 with vertical record deck was the bollocks. 😀
Hi
Thanks for that very in-depth video buddy. I have the 9300 with a cd issue. When the door closes the cd spins up but the stops and the door opens again ,when it's spinning the counter does nothing so it's like it's not reading the disc ? Any ideas please ? . Dave UK. 👍
No idea.
It could be that the motor speed is not getting to it's optimum revs, the speed is controlled by a voltage controlled oscillator feedback mechanism for want of better words. Back in the early days of cd players this was how the speed was maintained to read the disc to get the correct data levels out for decoding. I would say either adjust or tweek the pot of the cd player motor, follow the wiring for the cd's motor and see if the pot is labelled as such (VSCO motor etc.) try that first, or try cleaning the optic lense with a q-tip also. It still may need a new motor, just because it spins does not mean it's correct.
@@ChrisFEJacksonthanks for the reply I'll check that out. 👍
Very cool - nice work and thanks for posting!
Thanks for watching.
Great work! So all you need is a T10 driver to open.it. Thanks.
Yes.
Very nice, sound is ok
Shove a packer in there and bingo. Lol
Nice catch !
I saw this, opened it up and the the lower glass panel dropped out and smashed on the floor, common problem apparently. Be aware, lesson learnt
Damn that sucks !
Thank you very helpful
Is this the same as in the "National lampoon's Christmas vacation" movie when "Obviously something broke the window and something hit the stereo" (line from the movie)? I always wanted to know which stereo was it.
You accidentally typed your question into the YT comment box instead of the Google search box. Hint, yes it's Bang & Olufsen equipment, but not the BeoCenter 9000 as shown here. Divide that number by 2 and you'll have part of your answer. Add "BeoSystem" in front of that number and you'll have your full answer. The system in the movie was likely comprised of the BeoMaster, BeoGram, BeoGram CD, and perhaps the BeoCord.
@@Rchelicopterfun hahahaha yes, I did. Later it came to my mind that google knows it all and I searched. People say the same thing that you said and also that in the movie they probably did not destroy the real thing, just the case. They say that electronics are not from B&O system. Anyway, thank you for your search :D.
Hi, a friend of mine gave me one of these and everything seems to work fine except for the cd. The CD door is broken i have to move it with my hand but the thing is that the timer doesn't start like yours, any idea of what it could be, i'm not a geek for this stuff and not an expert of electronics but i'd like to try and fix it my self. Thanks in advance
Sorry, no concrete ideas there... Does the CD even spin up? If not, then the CD drive or the circuit controlling it is likely shot. If it spins up, then the laser head/associated circuit is likely shot.On older stuff like this, I would of course look for basic obvious stuff like cold solder joints or poor wiring/connectors, like I found on this one, but I'm no service tech of course, just a hobbyist.
Sorry, no idea's on the B&O turntable - don't have one, so never opened one :-(
this receiver was made by philips engineers for b and o
So? Only the design is b&o.
What nonsense, the only thing there is a philips CD running gear and D/A, everything else is made by B&O and I can tell you that as I have sat with it myself at factory 4 in Struer.
I need a repair on a 8002. I cant seem to get the selonoid to work properly.
Would that be something you could do?
I'm just a simple hobbyist, not a repair technician.
Still have Beocenter 9300 :-)
Anybody know where in the Toronto area i can get my Beocentre 9000 serviced?
Is that a BttF remote?
I also like the pcb smell :-)
very good !
Thanks
Do you service B&O components for a living?
Nope.
I would be concerned for a static discharge from the microfiber cloth.
are u for real ? 🤦♂️🤷♂️
@@pavelstoikov3780 Your argument is so extremely strong against my concern, I am not sure anymore, let's check... Wait! Wikipedia indicates for "Microfiber", in the second paragraph, its electrostatic properties. And if you look further on internet (obviously, you prefer sarcasm over fact checking, so you will not do it), it is due to the size of the fibers and the fact they are split. But I am sure you will then deny the existence of ESD, until you fry something expensive like I did. I only hope some will be informed.
The microfiber cloths I use in applications like this (bench mats) have been treated to lower their triboelectric effect.
Did you just re solder the whole area?
Anything that looked suspect.
Hi, i have a Beovision 9000Tv that has no audio and shows ERROR 0, can anyone help me?
This was on National lampoons Christmas movie
It wasn't, what your thinking of is the Beomaster 4500
@@newellslab Okay, thanks
bravo you got it 😁🤣
be careful when lift, tha glass can be loose
Thanks for the tip
Hi, sr. John. I have a beocenter 9300 . when I power on, it's on with all. all volume
I am a techician and I changed the lithiun batery of 3. volts but continued the same,
thank you for help me in this case damage I waiting for your answer thanks so much.
I have same error on my 9000 and display are flicking too.
does it contain an power amp?
Yes It has, but you can also connect active speakers
I recently purchased one. I can hear something click when it’s connected to power but no lights come on and no functions. Any suggestions?
I'm not a tech, just a hobbyist and without a proper schematic to fault trace the circuit, the only suggestion I would have is to follow the power input with a DMM in hopes you can find the source of the power interruption between the power supply and the rest of the unit.
Remove the power PCB with the main filter caps and bridge rectifiers (next to the power transformer) and resolder the filter cap joints - very common to have cracked joints on this board, with those symptoms. Go over the whole power board and reflow anything cracked (use a magnifier)
The CD Board is -as a whole- Philips TDA1541-Board as in 100 other players.
So I can blame Phillips for the cold solder joints?
John Salt Great comment! The CD board is much better documented in web and - by chance - you can use Philips as a donor-PCB in this B&O....
13:35 He's got his what on?
Anti static strap
Q: what power is ur microscope - if I bought a manual hand held glass what power should i look at getting to see the board soldering works ? thanks
Hi Jim, It's an Amscope 7x to 45X zoom stereo scope (amzn.to/2VdlsDu). I do however use a 0.5X barlow lens (amzn.to/2SrHVL9) on it when doing electronics work to half the magnification and double both the field of view as well as the working distance from the stage. So a 3.5 to 22.5X zoom range which I find a perfect range for circuit board & SMD type work. Magnification power really depends on how good your eyes are and the type of electronics you are doing. Before I got this scope, I got by for years with one of those 2X desk mounted magnifying lamps, but as age has crept up and SMD stuff is getting smaller and tighter on the boards, 2X magnification just wasn't cutting it and I was screwing more and more stuff up, so figured investing in a decent stereo scope would pay for itself in short order (which it certainly has). I'm however no electronics pro - it's just a very part time DIY fixing hobby more than anything. I did do a fair amount of research however on stereo scopes to find out what other electronic's hobbyist were using and Amscope's SM series kept coming up very favorably in all the forums and videos. They are low cost, good quality, and come in many configurations. Most serious electronic's hobbyists use the dual arm boom type however (more working area), with the better ring type lamps (no shadows). I decided on that much less expensive SM-2T-6wb one (and was able to convince the wife as well we needed it) because it has both top & bottom stage illumination. I mostly use top for all my electronics and mechanical inspection work, but it's nice to have the bottom as well for when the wife uses it for looking at slides / biological stuff. Neat thing with the SM series scopes is all the parts are available separately so I could eventually put the head (the most costly part), on a dual slide arm base, and get a proper ring lamp.
power supply? looks very similar to a transformer.
Yep, not aware of many (if any) high current AC to DC power supplies back in the 80'a that don't use a voltage step down transformer.
Hey, do you have picture or a schematic om the transformer
3:03 Copyright strike in the mail before you even pushed the button. :D
Yup. Perhaps REM are a little more lenient? :)
@@Rchelicopterfun you who know, but TH-cam AI might even like it. :) Just meant that the AI is often dam fast to do a strike, there are those who got a strike for only a few seconds which is just ridiculous. Great video btw! And you should have some luck now and then. :)
Pleace help me b&o broken
Sounds like that's not the only thing broken
80's ???? 90's you mean.
No, I mean the 80's! Last time I checked, 1986 (the year the Beocenter 9000 was released) was in the decade of the 80's.
My bc9500 is made in 1989..
Them beocenters are complete trash inside oh god
Not well designed
Just paying for the brand
What do you mean? The Beocenter 9000 is from 1987.
David Piçarra - You must be one of those (Can't - Understand - Nostalgic - Technology) types. 🖕
@@paulvink4338 some people like B&O and some people don't. When I was 19 years old, I would stop in the audio stores just to look at their products and definitely couldn't afford it then, but I knew one day I would purchase something by them. And now I have owned many pieces by them and have not been disappointed with my purchases. You will always have people that would ask you why would you pay so much money for their products? Because it's my money!
@@Rchelicopterfun I do understand,and I use better vintage equipment that all that mashed together thing
@@BavarianM You also clearly don't understand what an acronym is.