Why you should use a refractory coating for casting and another way to cut foam patterns.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 มี.ค. 2023
- Why you should use a refractory coating for lost foam casting. Also, this video includes another method involving a wood router to cut out foam patterns for lost foam casting.
Disclaimer--Metal casting is dangerous and can cause injury or death. Modifications of tools can cause injury. This video is only for entertainment purposes.
damonsmetalcasting@gmail.com
#lostfoamcasting #aluminumcasting #damonsmetalcasting #aluminumcastingprocess #metalcasting - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
The channel Flight Test did an episode on Hot Wire cutting, and they used balsa wood as a template. The wire doesn't get hot enough to cut the wood, and you can just tape the template to the foam and get amazing detail.
yeah I was recommended that too from a hobby sand casting FB page. The positive would be it definately would make the wire spot the edge instead of my off set. The only positive I realized when using the router was it doesn't flex like a hot wire and makes a straighter cut. In my opinion the router makes a slightly cleaner cut too, but after sanding either way would get to the same place. Thanks!
Hey, its me again. Ty for the router video. Guess I might just have to go with the router :D
Yup I am glad it helped. The router method gives edges that are alot more straight. I just did a video using the wire method and I wish I made a template and used my router instead.
It's always great to show others ways to cut the foam. I love my CNC 😁. The only thing with the router table is that it's very dangerous having your fingers close to the rotating blade. I'm Mr safety after cutting my finger off with a table saw.
100% to use the coating on the foam. 👍👍
Yup I am behind the times when it comes to CNC, one of these days though. I am just limited to 3d printing now. If I was using wood on the router that close I would probably not do it but there is no "grab" on the foam. I am sorry about the table saw incident thats harsh. That would make me be alot more cautious too. Thanks for watching
@@DamonsMetalCasting true about the no grab, but still dangerous 👍
@@HeinrichsMade All power tools have some type of inherent danger to them, and I would never encourage anybody to do anything they personally felt was not safe.
@@DamonsMetalCasting definitely! I made a jig for my router to make a circle. I think it's in my copper rose video. My fingers were close there. I cut little at a time, to make it a little safer 😂
Thanks for the experiments. Have you seen the way the RC airplane guys cut wing profiles on a hot wire cutter? They essentially pin a 3mm plywood template to the foam and run the wire along the edge of the template. Pretty accurate and the wire doesn't burn the plywood.
Sounds good thanks for bringing that up, I will go check it out. Also, thanks for realizing I did do experiments, I am trying to bring something different to the table on my channel even though it may not be the best its still a way for something to work or just something to think about.
I’m shocked the sand doesn’t cave in during the pour, it looks so dry and untamped. How does it hold its shape?
All I can say is magic. I have no idea and I am surpised by it too. The sand is dry. I bet if the parts are larger the sand might actually have enough force to cave in the pour. I also had the foam buried pretty shallow in the sand so it didn't have much weight pressing down it. Thanks!
@@DamonsMetalCasting I tried using this coating for a pla casting and did not have any luck the 2 times i tried. I was pouring brass, and the coating broke apart both times. Was worth a shot.
@@wantafastz28 I have not done a pour of brass yet, but I do know the temp is much higher than that of aluminum. In the industry they preheat the mold so it doesn't fracture due to heat stress. I would talk to the guy that makes the youtube channel Heinrichs Made. He added a comment below, click on his link, I think he has done some brass pours that have been succesful from lost foam. He also will answer your questions about the brass and the refractory coatings. I dont think he has done a PLA pattern that you are working on though.
Damon, what bit did you use on your router?
It was a carbide double flute 1/4" straight bit. Probably doesn't even need to be carbide since its just cutting foam. You could probably even run a bit with a bearing on the end and run the foam and the pattern upside down compared to my setup and not have to make a 3d printed adaptor. I have tried other bits that put a curve on the edge and those work real nice too, i just had to use a guide for it instead of my set up. Watch your fingers if you do this I end up being close to the router bit. I also 3d printed the plate so the foam wouldn't fall into the blade and my fingers with it. My original adaptor plates that came with the router table left too large of a space between the table and the cutting blade which make me extremely uncomfortable with small parts so I made my own. Thanks!