Been shooting Nikon since 1968,, I am getting older and have been shooting Nikon Z Cameras for 5 years now and needed a refresher (Well Done) I still have My first Nikon F,, and of course everything after n the lenses,, Glad I kept them.... ThankYou :) :) :)
This is an excellent video. I have resurrected my 1975 Nikkormat EL and have searched for more lenses to add to my collection and have just ran across an AI-S lens that I was concerned would not be compatible. You have clarified this extremely well. I am sourcing sellers in Japan who have apparently built inventories from surplus Nikon hardware. Thanks again.
Thanks. Yes, there are plenty of manual focus Nikon lenses on the used camera market. Camera sellers in Japan are usually very reliable but make sure you get a return option.
Jonathan, you've graced us with a very clear and useful survey of the lens families! Thank you. I haven't read all of the comments posted here, and maybe my next point will be redundant: I understand that there is another difference between the Ai and AiS: it's not in the actual optics -- which are identical in prescription between them -- but in the mechanical working of the lens: The AiS has a "quicker" focus mechanism, a steeper helical spiral in the focus-ring than the Ai design. Thus, the AiS lenses can be run through the focus range from nearest to infinity in about 1/3 of a turn (120 degrees) of the ring, useful!, if you're photographing quick action such as sports, or birds in the field. In contrast to the AiS, the Ai lens family focus-ring has a less-steep helix, and requires more like 1/2 turn (180 degrees) to run through the full focus range. Now, I don't think that this is a great selling-point of AiS lenses, because the difference is rather minor. But, it is a difference that might interest some users (I note along these lines also that rapid-focus binoculars are popular among birders, for the fast movements toward and away which their quarry often make). With best regards from the desert, --Joe Montani / Tucson ARIZONA
Thank you, thank you. I knew about the sequence the Non-AI, AI, and AI-S lenses came out but never really understood the different coupling mechanisms. In F mount I now only have film bodies but buying/collecting lens to use on my FM2N, F4, and F100 bodies.Im currently seeking out the F 105mm f2.5 AI or AI-S since the Auto focus 105mm f/2 DC is almost three times as much. Appreciated the video. Take care.
Thanks for the informative video. Was sent to it from another channel called Vintage Optiks. I'm new to the vintage lens world and trying to learn as much as I can.
The only lens that I am aware of that changed optical formula between AI and AI-S versions is the 28mm f2.8. It is certainly worth getting the later. For every other lens the optical formulae for AI vs AI-S are the same. The AI-S versions typically have a shorter focus throw and sometimes lower mass due slightly more compact design, simplified DoF scale, and/or different component materials. In some cases the AI-S versions added CRC and/or SIC coatings. No reason to pay extra for AI-S versions of lenses, other than the 28mm f2.8, if CRC and SIC coatings are not super important to you.
The Nikon AIS lenses are newer so, all other things being equal, are likely to be more easy to find in good condition and more reliable moving forward. But, as you say, the Nikon AI lenses can still represent a very, very good buy. We have done some testing to assess the newer multicoatings. We used Hasselblad lenses but there no reason to suggest that the improvement (or otherwise) won't apply to Nikon too: th-cam.com/video/Z2Nhbf5btv4/w-d-xo.html
Great channel. I love the vintage Nikon lenses 👍 Use them on my analog Nikons as well as the digital ones. Luckily, there's always yet another lens one hasn't added to the collection yet ;-)
Another way to distinguish an AI lens from pre-AI lens (other than the coupling ridge) is that the rabbit ears on an AI lens has two holes in it (to give more light to see the second line of small aperture numbers on the lens).
Thank you for clear explanation. I want to buy some to use with Z mount DX camera via adapter. For me non-AIs look build more solid and hope have more character/flares to add into sterile digital look :) Only thing that I like about newer lenses is sharpness. So I'm very confused right now which ones to look into. I will be using them on full manual exposure (and focus obviously), so all those compatibility issues are least to worry about. Maybe someone can share their thoughts about optical construction and coatings that have some impact on "look".
The construction quality of the Nikon AIS lenses is superior to any later AF lenses. As far as the optical ‘feel’ I’d recommend trying them out and making up your own mind. It’s very subjective.
For those who don't know......an AI or AIS lens will work on modern digital Nikon cameras which have the F-mount (no adaptor needed) but as far as I know they won't work on a mirror-less camera. They will still need to be focussed manually but this is a small price to pay considering how cheap they are now.
Thanks for the comment - always appreciated. And yes, AI and AIS lenses can be used on mirrorless Nikons with an FTZ adaptor. In fact, our videos are shot with a Nikon Z5 and manual focus 28-45mm f4.5 AI lens (from 1976!).
Question: I've been looking at Nikkor 105mm lenses. Is there a difference between non-AI and AI/AI-S lenses in terms of their ability to be used on a mirrorless camera? Is there a major difference in IQ? My camera is a Fuji X-T3.
No. They can be mounted via an adaptor but will not be recognised by the camera (not an issue in most situations). Check out the FTZ instructions online for full details.
Hello i have seen your video and several others. My question is on the Nikon lens 50mm 1.2. and 1.4 are they Manuel focus or auto focus. I was told Ai-s IS WHAT I NEEDED. I use d-5 and d-850. Which is auto focus .
Nikon makes a 50mm f1.4 and 50mm f1.2 in both AF and manual focus. The AF versions are clearly marked as such. The manual focus versions can be found in AI or AIS. Either will work on the D5 or D850 - obviously without AF (avoid non-AI / pre-AI manual focus lenses. These won’t work.)
The FA has a two step program mode. The signal notch tells the camera if the lens is shorter or longer than 135mm. The program for lenses longer than 135mm uses faster shutter speeds.
Great video! One question: Does the coupling between the lens and the camera effect anything besides light metering? In other words, if I am using a non-AI camera with an AIS lens that does not have rabbit ears, will it work just without the light meter?
Useful? Why yes! I needed this last month... when I bought a 35mm non-AI for my FM ... but I should have bought an AI lens. Luckily, I can use the lens on my FTn camera. I just need to find a 35mm AI lens.
@@WorldwideCameraExchange most of the articles or posts that i read simply tackled the “smoothness if the ring”. your video was able to explain it in detail in a concise way.
Hello Sir. I have four ZF-2 Carl Zeiss nikon mount lenses, and after watching this video, I believe they have AIS mounts. Will these work on a Nikon F2-as finder. You talk about the coupling ridge, which is has but no rabbit ears. Do I need the rabbit ears to connect with the Finder. The F2as will be a gift if it is compatible. I'm using these lenses on my Nikon D850 now. Thank you for any help. Take care from Tulsa Oklahoma, USA.
Yes, AIS lenses will work perfectly on your Nikon F2AS. The rabbit ears are only needed for the pre-AI (non-AI) Nikon F2 cameras with metering heads, built before 1977.
Thank you, Sir, for getting back to me. I was concerned that the Zeiss ZF-2 lens with Nikon mount with coupling ridge but without rabbit ears would connect with the DS-12 FINDER. Thank you again.
Does the ridge on the AI lens interfere with it mounting on an older Nikon such as a Nikomat? It would seem that an older Nikon such as the Nikomat would require the smooth non AI lens to fit on the camera body. 5:58
I tried to install an old non-AI Nikkor lens on my Nikon N70 and it damaged the little tab on the aperture ring (AI index tab). Now, despite the fact that all lens are working, my Nikon N70 wont read any changes in aperture values. Any ideas on how to solve this?
You have to be careful because some earlier Nikon lenses will foul the AI tab and others won’t. To be safe you should only use the lenses recommended in the handbook. I’m sure a good Nikon repairer will be able to sort it out for you.
Great Video! I'm going for a F3 and don't like the look of the "rabbit ears" can I remove them for a cleaner look? Is it just a matter of unscrewing the plate and replacing the screws to fill the screw holes?
Great video. Thank you. I’m new to photography. I’ve just bought a z50. My friend gave me an old AI lens 35mm 1.4. Can I buy a FTZ II adaptor and use the AI lens in z50?
Not my area of expertise, sorry. That said, often only the Nikon lens mounts vary so there will be no difference in optical performance. Others may be able to share their experiences?
You didn’t mention the ai conversion service which Nikon offered for most of their older lenses. These converted lenses offer most, but not quite all, of the functionality of a true ai lens, for example I think that matrix metering on the fa is not available with them. There are also some ‘home made’ conversions which people have done by milling away part of the aperture ring. Take care if buying one of these as the coupling ridge on lens is not always formed in exactlythe correct place.
Thanks for your video, there's a French photographer claiming that non AI or pre AI lenses (or AI-S) can damage our digital cameras such as a D810 or D850 or D750 etc.. is there truth in it?
Some of the earliest lenses foul the AI indexing tab on the camera’s lens mount. I assume that’s what is being discussed? You won’t damage the camera unless you try to force the lens on (obviously not a sensible thing to do!)
FYI - The Ai stands for "auto indexing." "Indexing" as you indicated refers to the lens communicating with the body. On pre-Ai bodies, when mounting a lens, you had to set the lens aperture set to f5.6, in order for the rabbit ears to mesh with the prong on the body. Once mounted, you had to manually turn the aperture ring from one end to the other in order to "index" the lens with the camera meter. Ai lenses (Auto Indexing) have that ridge you pointed out that automatically indexed themselves with the body, so we no longer needed to do what we lovingly called the "Nikon shuffle." These lenses were capable of providing Aperture Priority exposure mode on bodies from the late 1970's. The "scoop" in the AiS lenses provided the addition of Shutter Priority on newer Nikon bodies in the 1980's. Don't know for sure, but I presume the S probably stands for "shutter."
It is interesting to note that the only optical difference between AI and AI-s lenses occurs in the 28mm f2.8 lens which was improved in the AI-s version. All others are identical.
Also noteworthy to mention is that AI-s lenses typically have a shorter focusing throw/travel which is handy for street. Faster focusing. Could help someone make a decision between the two but in terms of IQ you won’t see any difference between the two technologies.
Thanks for your comment. Much appreciated. Yes, some of the later lenses have reduced focusing throw (e.g. the 28mm f2.8 AIS). Also some do have improved optical performance (newer coatings or optical redesigns). As you say, the AIS coupling is useful to identify later lenses even if any improvements are not directly linked to the coupling update.
@@WorldwideCameraExchangeDoes the Ai lenses provide the aperture and focus distance for the exif file as well as the green dot focus confirmation on modern DSLR?
@@Dv0rak404 The green dot focus confirmation yes because that is driven by the sensors on the focusing screen. Distance info no, you’ll need a chip in a lens for that which AI lenses don’t have and specifically distance info was only introduced in AF-d(istance) iteration of AF lenses or the second generation and is now a feature of any Nikkor lens all the way up to Z lenses. Aperture info yes but through the analog AI indexing collar which Nikon DSLRs still have but any Z mirrorless doesn’t. Not sure about the FTZ adapters.
That little scoop out of metal in the base of the AI-s lens mount is mentioned, but nothing as to its working specifics. For the few cameras which use it, there is a small metal button in the face of the body lens mount. For any lens which is not AI-s and for AI-s lenses of focal length shorter than 105mm (having no scoop), mounting the lens will push in the button, which sends a signal to the meter noting that non-telephoto focal length. The meter is then set to read its TTL exposure a certain way for shorter focal lengths. For longer lenses having the scoop, the button falls inside the scoop and is not deprerssed, so the meter then reads the longer focal length and reads exposure differently. Does this really do something? Presumably so, as is prevents a significant increase in costs to engineer into the body. Does anyone actually appreciate a difference? No, which is probably why it was dropped from all bodies later than the FA. Without checking, I'm not sure but I think my FE2 also uses this "scoop" metering indexing. The big difference in AI-s lenses is not mentioned. In 1981, "programmed" exposure, where the camera body and metering control the aperture setting for exposure, presented a big problem to Nikon. Previously, Nikkor lenses used auto aperture operating mechanisms which were not exactly the same dimensions. At exposure, a tab in the body shut down the aperture until the setting in the lens mechanically stopped it as set, but that "play" differed between various lenses and could vary between types of lenses. A "programmed" exposure system requires that the camera know exactly how far to shut down the aperture for a given result, so the mechanical action must be exactly the same for all lenses. Starting with the AI-s, all Nikkors have that precision lacking in the pre-AI-s lenses. Nikon also invented a system to overcome this problem when using Pre-AI-s and non-Nikon lenses in Nikon bodies with "program" and "shutter priority" exposure control. Starting with the FG, in such auto exposure functions, the camera shuts down the aperture automatically to it's calculated mechanical position for exposure. then before the exposure is made, the body meters the actual TTL light and further adjusts the mechanical aperture of the lens if needed, then makes that adjusted exposure. Very trick.
The notch on the flange of the AI-s lens mount, and it's accompanying little button on the FA's lens mount has absolutely nothing to do with lens focal length or the signalling of focal length. That notch is there on AI-s, AF and AFD lenses to signal the body that a lens with a linear aperture coupling mechanism is mounted. Prior lenses like AI and F have aperture mechanisms where the lever movement at the back of the lens has a non-linear relationship to the change in the f-stop.
1,토끼귀는 F2 초기모델 이전에 나온 바디에 장착 할 때 노출계를 작동 시킬 때 필요 , 2, F2 후기모델 F2( 77년 부터의 모델 )과 F3,FM시리즈 ,FE 시리즈 등의 MF바디에는 토끼귀가 없는 렌즈도 노출계 작동 합니다 AF 바디나 DSLR의 바디에도 됩니다 3, 바디에서 조리개를 조절하는 G타입 렌즈 ,크로바디 전용 DX렌즈외에 AF렌즈 ,AF -D타입 ,AF-I AF-S렌즈 등은 MF바디에 사용 가능 합니다 . 단지 기종에 따라 미터링이 미끌거려 손 맛이 떨어 집니다, 4, G타입 렌즈를 MF 바디에 마운팅하면 조리개 조절이 안 됩니다 G타입 렌즈는 F5 이 후의 바디인 F5 ,F100, F80,F6, 모든 DSLR에서 조리개 조절 됩니다
Thank you for commenting. The rabbit ears are for cameras with non-AI (or pre AI) coupling. On the F2 the pre-77 prisms need the rabbit ears. The later prisms use the AI coupling (so F2A and F2AS camera/prism combinations).
토끼귀 =fork 즉 ,포크가 있는 모든 렌즈는 원칙적으로 모든 Nikon SLR에서 사용할 수 있으며, 포크를 사용하거나(F3, F4, FM, FE, FTN3, EL2) AI-prong을 들어 올릴 수 있습니다. AI 마운트로 변환된 모든 렌즈는 FG, FG20, 301, 501과 AF 모델 F6 5, F80을 제외한 모든 카메라에서 사용할 수 있습니다. F5는 수정할 수 있습니다. 이 렌즈는 디지털 니콘 D1 및 D2 시리즈와 D200만 사용할 수 있으며, 기타 모든 디지털 SLR과 G렌즈만 사용할 수 있는 모든 모델에는 AI 변환 렌즈가 장착될 수 있지만 계량 기능은 없습니다. 모든 렌즈는 TC-200 컨버터에서 사용할 수 있지만, 셔터 속도가 빠르고 조리개 f/11 이상에서는 불균일한 노출이 발생할 수 있습니다
The notch on the mount of an AI-s lens is there to ignore a switch in the FA body. This lens type communicates to the FA that it's aperture mechanism gives a linear change in aperture for any movement of it's stop down lever. For AI and prior lenses whose stop down lever would move with a non-linear relationship to the f stop, the switch is activated. The switch was called the "EE Switch". This was necessary, and first incorporated in the FA, because the FA was the first Nikon SLR body (aside from a very bulky Shutter Priority iteration of the F2 called the F2 AS, and the FG - that had Program Mode) to control aperture electronically. Lens aperture mechanisms in the AI and prior lenses with their absence of the notch could still be controlled by the FA, but the AI position of the EE Switch contacts signaled the digital and analogue electronics that a different delay in the aperture control was in order.. So a correct exposure was always secured, and that may be why another responder on this thread saw no difference when using the FA with either AI-s or AI lenses - even assuming he was using S or P modes, for which the notch and all the related engineering updates came into effect. Manual and Aperture Priority modes on the FA operated the same old way since in these modes, the body does not control lens aperture. The same responder fell into the urban myth (and I've seen this error in books published by "reputable" authors) that the notch communicated lens focal length to the FA body. That is not so - it is there to tell of it's linear aperture mechanism, and that is all. AI-s lenses with focal lengths 135mm or greater, zooms with 135mm focal length in their range and teleconverters, had a ridge at the very back of the lens - further into the mirror box when mounted, that activates the "fmm" switch to either of two positions that took into account the presence of a teleconverter, or a lens whose focal length was 135mm or greater. This automatically facilitated higher shutter speeds (and larger apertures) in P (Program) mode to help alleviate the effects of camera shake. Shorter focal lengths and the absence of a teleconverter had no need of this provision of P mode operation. If you were operating an AI or prior lens of longer focal length in P mode, you could wind up with shutter speeds that may be considered too slow for hand-held operation. But these earlier lenses were designed before the later P mode implementations were dreamed of in Nikonland.
![ILLSLICK - KILLSHOT REMIX [FULL VERSION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RIK8RrqIAzE/mqdefault.jpg)
Finally a human being who knows how to explain something. THANK YOU!
Thank you!
Although this topic is complex, this is the best and greatest video I have ever seen that talks about this topic.
Thank you - very kind!
I've watched a few of these non-ai, ai, ai-s vids. Yours is clear, clean, succinct - very good. Superb, actually. Thank you very much!
Thank you - much appreciated
Finally a complete explanation, thank you so much
Glad it was useful!
Been shooting Nikon since 1968,, I am getting older and have been shooting Nikon Z Cameras for 5 years now and needed a refresher (Well Done) I still have My first Nikon F,, and of course everything after n the lenses,, Glad I kept them.... ThankYou :) :) :)
Thanks - glad it was useful
This is an excellent video. I have resurrected my 1975 Nikkormat EL and have searched for more lenses to add to my collection and have just ran across an AI-S lens that I was concerned would not be compatible. You have clarified this extremely well. I am sourcing sellers in Japan who have apparently built inventories from surplus Nikon hardware. Thanks again.
Thanks. Yes, there are plenty of manual focus Nikon lenses on the used camera market. Camera sellers in Japan are usually very reliable but make sure you get a return option.
Clearest explanation between the differences between the three. Thank you for the explanation! Saves me reading a bajillion more forums.
Glad it was useful - thanks. Enjoy your Nikon.
Perfect Explanation! Short, to the point and correct!
Thanks - glad it was useful!
Subscribed. Excellent presentation, both in content, delivery and sound/video clarity. Well done.👍
Thanks - appreciated
Jonathan, you've graced us with a very clear and useful survey of the lens families! Thank you.
I haven't read all of the comments posted here, and maybe my next point will be redundant: I understand that there is another difference between the Ai and AiS: it's not in the actual optics -- which are identical in prescription between them -- but in the mechanical working of the lens:
The AiS has a "quicker" focus mechanism, a steeper helical spiral in the focus-ring than the Ai design. Thus, the AiS lenses can be run through the focus range from nearest to infinity in about 1/3 of a turn (120 degrees) of the ring, useful!, if you're photographing quick action such as sports, or birds in the field.
In contrast to the AiS, the Ai lens family focus-ring has a less-steep helix, and requires more like 1/2 turn (180 degrees) to run through the full focus range. Now, I don't think that this is a great selling-point of AiS lenses, because the difference is rather minor. But, it is a difference that might interest some users (I note along these lines also that rapid-focus binoculars are popular among birders, for the fast movements toward and away which their quarry often make).
With best regards from the desert, --Joe Montani / Tucson ARIZONA
Yes … but it does vary from lens to lens. Thanks for commenting- always appreciated.
Thank you, thank you. I knew about the sequence the Non-AI, AI, and AI-S lenses came out but never really understood the different coupling mechanisms. In F mount I now only have film bodies but buying/collecting lens to use on my FM2N, F4, and F100 bodies.Im currently seeking out the F 105mm f2.5 AI or AI-S since the Auto focus 105mm f/2 DC is almost three times as much. Appreciated the video. Take care.
Thanks for commenting
Many Thanks For An Excellent and Clear Description Between the Lenes
Glad it was useful. Enjoy your Nikon!
Very quick into the point explanation, I understand now. Thank you!
Happy to help
Thanks for the informative video. Was sent to it from another channel called Vintage Optiks. I'm new to the vintage lens world and trying to learn as much as I can.
Always happy to help
Vintage Optiks! I hear he's mulling over making a new upload. His uploads are great fun.
Thanks very much for this. Clear and simple explanation that even I can understand. Great!
Thanks - glad it was useful
The only lens that I am aware of that changed optical formula between AI and AI-S versions is the 28mm f2.8. It is certainly worth getting the later. For every other lens the optical formulae for AI vs AI-S are the same. The AI-S versions typically have a shorter focus throw and sometimes lower mass due slightly more compact design, simplified DoF scale, and/or different component materials. In some cases the AI-S versions added CRC and/or SIC coatings. No reason to pay extra for AI-S versions of lenses, other than the 28mm f2.8, if CRC and SIC coatings are not super important to you.
The Nikon AIS lenses are newer so, all other things being equal, are likely to be more easy to find in good condition and more reliable moving forward. But, as you say, the Nikon AI lenses can still represent a very, very good buy. We have done some testing to assess the newer multicoatings. We used Hasselblad lenses but there no reason to suggest that the improvement (or otherwise) won't apply to Nikon too: th-cam.com/video/Z2Nhbf5btv4/w-d-xo.html
50mm F1.2 Ai and Ai-S lenses a little bit different; The Ai verisin is 7 blades, AI-s version is 9 boades
Thanks for commenting
Great channel. I love the vintage Nikon lenses 👍 Use them on my analog Nikons as well as the digital ones.
Luckily, there's always yet another lens one hasn't added to the collection yet ;-)
Thanks!
Useful and helpful. Clear and to the point, and finally made sense of the differences for me. Thanks!
Glad it was useful!
Another way to distinguish an AI lens from pre-AI lens (other than the coupling ridge) is that the rabbit ears on an AI lens has two holes in it (to give more light to see the second line of small aperture numbers on the lens).
Thanks for commenting
Thank you so much Jonathan for this incredible explanation
Thank you. Hope it was useful.
Great explanation nice one 👍
Thanks - appreciated
Thank you for clear explanation. I want to buy some to use with Z mount DX camera via adapter. For me non-AIs look build more solid and hope have more character/flares to add into sterile digital look :) Only thing that I like about newer lenses is sharpness. So I'm very confused right now which ones to look into. I will be using them on full manual exposure (and focus obviously), so all those compatibility issues are least to worry about. Maybe someone can share their thoughts about optical construction and coatings that have some impact on "look".
The construction quality of the Nikon AIS lenses is superior to any later AF lenses. As far as the optical ‘feel’ I’d recommend trying them out and making up your own mind. It’s very subjective.
For those who don't know......an AI or AIS lens will work on modern digital Nikon cameras which have the F-mount (no adaptor needed) but as far as I know they won't work on a mirror-less camera. They will still need to be focussed manually but this is a small price to pay considering how cheap they are now.
Thanks for the comment - always appreciated. And yes, AI and AIS lenses can be used on mirrorless Nikons with an FTZ adaptor. In fact, our videos are shot with a Nikon Z5 and manual focus 28-45mm f4.5 AI lens (from 1976!).
Question: I've been looking at Nikkor 105mm lenses. Is there a difference between non-AI and AI/AI-S lenses in terms of their ability to be used on a mirrorless camera? Is there a major difference in IQ? My camera is a Fuji X-T3.
It doesn’t matter. Some of my Nikon lenses are AI and some are AIs and all work on my XT3 with my K&F adapter.
Best explanation ever
Thanks - much appreciated
I own a Nikon FM SLR camera. Thanks for the explanation. Know I can go out and purchase AI lenses knowing they will work great!
Glad it was helpful! The Nikon FM is such a good camera. Look after it and it will last forever.
Yes, Nikon AI and Nikon AIS manual focus lenses work perfectly.
Thanks for the explanation. Using it to choose between a Nikon 300mm AI or AIS. I think i'll go with the AIS since it's newer. Great video.
Thanks
Great video! Are AIS lenses chipped? Thinking of getting some of these AIS lenses for the Nikon ZF (z mount)
No. They can be mounted via an adaptor but will not be recognised by the camera (not an issue in most situations). Check out the FTZ instructions online for full details.
Hello i have seen your video and several others. My question is on the Nikon lens 50mm 1.2. and 1.4 are they Manuel focus or auto focus. I was told Ai-s IS WHAT I NEEDED. I use d-5 and d-850. Which is auto focus .
Nikon makes a 50mm f1.4 and 50mm f1.2 in both AF and manual focus. The AF versions are clearly marked as such. The manual focus versions can be found in AI or AIS. Either will work on the D5 or D850 - obviously without AF (avoid non-AI / pre-AI manual focus lenses. These won’t work.)
great thanks
@@WorldwideCameraExchange
Donde se consigue ese póster detrás tuyo?? Ese de Nikon
Very old. Only shows Nikon film cameras! @graysofwestminster might have one or something similar
The FA has a two step program mode. The signal notch tells the camera if the lens is shorter or longer than 135mm. The program for lenses longer than 135mm uses faster shutter speeds.
Thanks for commenting
It was a very useful video in which I learned the details. Thanks. ( Google translate.);
Thank you!
Brilliant explanation - thanks very much
Hope it was useful! Enjoy your Nikon.
Great video! One question: Does the coupling between the lens and the camera effect anything besides light metering? In other words, if I am using a non-AI camera with an AIS lens that does not have rabbit ears, will it work just without the light meter?
Yes. A pre-AI Nikon camera will work with an AIS lens. You only lose metering.
@@WorldwideCameraExchange Thanks!
Great video! Is it possible to use non ai lenses on a z mount camera with a simple adapter?
Most F to Z adaptors should work. Check with the manufacturer and if testing never use excessive force to mount the lens.
Thank you very much for these precious informations !
Thank you. Hope it was useful. Enjoy your Nikon!
Useful? Why yes! I needed this last month... when I bought a 35mm non-AI for my FM ... but I should have bought an AI lens. Luckily, I can use the lens on my FTn camera. I just need to find a 35mm AI lens.
Thanks for commenting. Yes, AI or AIS lenses are best for the FM.
@@WorldwideCameraExchange Why are they best? The non-Ai versions have the lovely scalloped metal focus ring.
@tuisitala9068 I prefer how the later versions handle. And the later lenses can have better coatings and optical improvements.
clear and concise. thank you!
Thank you. How it was useful.
@@WorldwideCameraExchange most of the articles or posts that i read simply tackled the “smoothness if the ring”. your video was able to explain it in detail in a concise way.
@gabliteral9356 thank you
Hello Sir. I have four ZF-2 Carl Zeiss nikon mount lenses, and after watching this video, I believe they have AIS mounts.
Will these work on a Nikon F2-as finder. You talk about the coupling ridge, which is has but no rabbit ears. Do I need the rabbit ears to connect with the Finder.
The F2as will be a gift if it is compatible.
I'm using these lenses on my Nikon D850 now.
Thank you for any help.
Take care from Tulsa Oklahoma, USA.
Yes, AIS lenses will work perfectly on your Nikon F2AS. The rabbit ears are only needed for the pre-AI (non-AI) Nikon F2 cameras with metering heads, built before 1977.
Thank you, Sir, for getting back to me. I was concerned that the Zeiss ZF-2 lens with Nikon mount with coupling ridge but without rabbit ears would connect with the DS-12 FINDER. Thank you again.
Does the ridge on the AI lens interfere with it mounting on an older Nikon such as a Nikomat? It would seem that an older Nikon such as the Nikomat would require the smooth non AI lens to fit on the camera body. 5:58
You should be okay but it can sometimes be an issue. It’s always best to check the lens on the camera.
I tried to install an old non-AI Nikkor lens on my Nikon N70 and it damaged the little tab on the aperture ring (AI index tab). Now, despite the fact that all lens are working, my Nikon N70 wont read any changes in aperture values. Any ideas on how to solve this?
You have to be careful because some earlier Nikon lenses will foul the AI tab and others won’t. To be safe you should only use the lenses recommended in the handbook. I’m sure a good Nikon repairer will be able to sort it out for you.
Great Video! I'm going for a F3 and don't like the look of the "rabbit ears" can I remove them for a cleaner look?
Is it just a matter of unscrewing the plate and replacing the screws to fill the screw holes?
Yes, and it won’t affect the operation of the camera. Don’t throw away as you may need to put back on if you sell!
Got a film can full of these.@@WorldwideCameraExchange
Great explanation
Thanks - appreciated
Very useful, clear explanation, thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Hi, great video. Just wondering if you can fit a non ai lens to a modern digital camera?
Yes, usually, but mount carefully. Some of the oldest Nikon lenses can be problematic.
Great video. Thank you. I’m new to photography. I’ve just bought a z50. My friend gave me an old AI lens 35mm 1.4. Can I buy a FTZ II adaptor and use the AI lens in z50?
Thank you for your comment. Yes, the FTZ or FTZII will work perfectly.
Hello. Which of these versions is better for filmmaking ?
Not my area of expertise, sorry. That said, often only the Nikon lens mounts vary so there will be no difference in optical performance. Others may be able to share their experiences?
@@WorldwideCameraExchange Ok understand you thanks
What about Focus throw? Does the Ais focus faster? (easier)
It varies from lens to lens.
Very helpful, thank you!
Glad it was useful!
You didn’t mention the ai conversion service which Nikon offered for most of their older lenses. These converted lenses offer most, but not quite all, of the functionality of a true ai lens, for example I think that matrix metering on the fa is not available with them.
There are also some ‘home made’ conversions which people have done by milling away part of the aperture ring. Take care if buying one of these as the coupling ridge on lens is not always formed in exactlythe correct place.
Thanks for commenting
🙌🏻🌠
Thanks for your video, there's a French photographer claiming that non AI or pre AI lenses (or AI-S) can damage our digital cameras such as a D810 or D850 or D750 etc.. is there truth in it?
Some of the earliest lenses foul the AI indexing tab on the camera’s lens mount. I assume that’s what is being discussed? You won’t damage the camera unless you try to force the lens on (obviously not a sensible thing to do!)
@@WorldwideCameraExchange Many thanks! Great video btw!
FYI - The Ai stands for "auto indexing." "Indexing" as you indicated refers to the lens communicating with the body.
On pre-Ai bodies, when mounting a lens, you had to set the lens aperture set to f5.6, in order for the rabbit ears to mesh with the prong on the body. Once mounted, you had to manually turn the aperture ring from one end to the other in order to "index" the lens with the camera meter.
Ai lenses (Auto Indexing) have that ridge you pointed out that automatically indexed themselves with the body, so we no longer needed to do what we lovingly called the "Nikon shuffle." These lenses were capable of providing Aperture Priority exposure mode on bodies from the late 1970's.
The "scoop" in the AiS lenses provided the addition of Shutter Priority on newer Nikon bodies in the 1980's. Don't know for sure, but I presume the S probably stands for "shutter."
Thanks for your comments - always appreciated
Solved that mystery !
Glad it was useful!
It is interesting to note that the only optical difference between AI and AI-s lenses occurs in the 28mm f2.8 lens which was improved in the AI-s version. All others are identical.
Can I use these lenses on my Z series? Do I need a special adaptor? Which would be best?
Yes, with the Nikon FTZ adaptor. Obviously you won’t get AF!
I recommend one without electronics to reduce the bulk since it doesn't benefit from that stuff anyway
@Cleverconveyence thanks for commenting
Thank you so much!
Hope it was useful
Does the Nikon FG-20 use the ais lenses?
AI or AIS lenses will work perfectly on the FG-20.
@@WorldwideCameraExchange Thank you
Also noteworthy to mention is that AI-s lenses typically have a shorter focusing throw/travel which is handy for street. Faster focusing. Could help someone make a decision between the two but in terms of IQ you won’t see any difference between the two technologies.
Thanks for your comment. Much appreciated. Yes, some of the later lenses have reduced focusing throw (e.g. the 28mm f2.8 AIS). Also some do have improved optical performance (newer coatings or optical redesigns). As you say, the AIS coupling is useful to identify later lenses even if any improvements are not directly linked to the coupling update.
@@WorldwideCameraExchangeDoes the Ai lenses provide the aperture and focus distance for the exif file as well as the green dot focus confirmation on modern DSLR?
@snipersquad01 Nikon has an online lens compatibility chart. It’ll give you all the details you need.
@@Dv0rak404 The green dot focus confirmation yes because that is driven by the sensors on the focusing screen.
Distance info no, you’ll need a chip in a lens for that which AI lenses don’t have and specifically distance info was only introduced in AF-d(istance) iteration of AF lenses or the second generation and is now a feature of any Nikkor lens all the way up to Z lenses.
Aperture info yes but through the analog AI indexing collar which Nikon DSLRs still have but any Z mirrorless doesn’t. Not sure about the FTZ adapters.
I imagine the raised edge is not something you want when getting an adapter for APSC.
The manufacturer should provide compatibility information.
That little scoop out of metal in the base of the AI-s lens mount is mentioned, but nothing as to its working specifics. For the few cameras which use it, there is a small metal button in the face of the body lens mount. For any lens which is not AI-s and for AI-s lenses of focal length shorter than 105mm (having no scoop), mounting the lens will push in the button, which sends a signal to the meter noting that non-telephoto focal length. The meter is then set to read its TTL exposure a certain way for shorter focal lengths. For longer lenses having the scoop, the button falls inside the scoop and is not deprerssed, so the meter then reads the longer focal length and reads exposure differently. Does this really do something? Presumably so, as is prevents a significant increase in costs to engineer into the body. Does anyone actually appreciate a difference? No, which is probably why it was dropped from all bodies later than the FA. Without checking, I'm not sure but I think my FE2 also uses this "scoop" metering indexing.
The big difference in AI-s lenses is not mentioned. In 1981, "programmed" exposure, where the camera body and metering control the aperture setting for exposure, presented a big problem to Nikon. Previously, Nikkor lenses used auto aperture operating mechanisms which were not exactly the same dimensions. At exposure, a tab in the body shut down the aperture until the setting in the lens mechanically stopped it as set, but that "play" differed between various lenses and could vary between types of lenses. A "programmed" exposure system requires that the camera know exactly how far to shut down the aperture for a given result, so the mechanical action must be exactly the same for all lenses. Starting with the AI-s, all Nikkors have that precision lacking in the pre-AI-s lenses. Nikon also invented a system to overcome this problem when using Pre-AI-s and non-Nikon lenses in Nikon bodies with "program" and "shutter priority" exposure control. Starting with the FG, in such auto exposure functions, the camera shuts down the aperture automatically to it's calculated mechanical position for exposure. then before the exposure is made, the body meters the actual TTL light and further adjusts the mechanical aperture of the lens if needed, then makes that adjusted exposure. Very trick.
Thanks for contributing - much appreciated
The notch on the flange of the AI-s lens mount, and it's accompanying little button on the FA's lens mount has absolutely nothing to do with lens focal length or the signalling of focal length. That notch is there on AI-s, AF and AFD lenses to signal the body that a lens with a linear aperture coupling mechanism is mounted. Prior lenses like AI and F have aperture mechanisms where the lever movement at the back of the lens has a non-linear relationship to the change in the f-stop.
Thanks for commenting
1,토끼귀는 F2 초기모델 이전에 나온 바디에 장착 할 때 노출계를 작동 시킬 때 필요 ,
2, F2 후기모델 F2( 77년 부터의 모델 )과 F3,FM시리즈 ,FE 시리즈 등의 MF바디에는 토끼귀가 없는 렌즈도 노출계 작동 합니다
AF 바디나 DSLR의 바디에도 됩니다
3, 바디에서 조리개를 조절하는 G타입 렌즈 ,크로바디 전용 DX렌즈외에 AF렌즈 ,AF -D타입 ,AF-I AF-S렌즈 등은 MF바디에 사용 가능 합니다 .
단지 기종에 따라 미터링이 미끌거려 손 맛이 떨어 집니다,
4, G타입 렌즈를 MF 바디에 마운팅하면 조리개 조절이 안 됩니다 G타입 렌즈는 F5 이 후의 바디인 F5 ,F100, F80,F6, 모든 DSLR에서 조리개 조절 됩니다
Thank you for commenting.
The rabbit ears are for cameras with non-AI (or pre AI) coupling. On the F2 the pre-77 prisms need the rabbit ears. The later prisms use the AI coupling (so F2A and F2AS camera/prism combinations).
토끼귀 =fork
즉 ,포크가 있는 모든 렌즈는 원칙적으로 모든 Nikon SLR에서 사용할 수 있으며, 포크를 사용하거나(F3, F4, FM, FE, FTN3, EL2) AI-prong을 들어 올릴 수 있습니다. AI 마운트로 변환된 모든 렌즈는 FG, FG20, 301, 501과 AF 모델 F6 5, F80을 제외한 모든 카메라에서 사용할 수 있습니다. F5는 수정할 수 있습니다. 이 렌즈는 디지털 니콘 D1 및 D2 시리즈와 D200만 사용할 수 있으며, 기타 모든 디지털 SLR과 G렌즈만 사용할 수 있는 모든 모델에는 AI 변환 렌즈가 장착될 수 있지만 계량 기능은 없습니다. 모든 렌즈는 TC-200 컨버터에서 사용할 수 있지만, 셔터 속도가 빠르고 조리개 f/11 이상에서는 불균일한 노출이 발생할 수 있습니다
The notch on the mount of an AI-s lens is there to ignore a switch in the FA body. This lens type communicates to the FA that it's aperture mechanism gives a linear change in aperture for any movement of it's stop down lever. For AI and prior lenses whose stop down lever would move with a non-linear relationship to the f stop, the switch is activated. The switch was called the "EE Switch". This was necessary, and first incorporated in the FA, because the FA was the first Nikon SLR body (aside from a very bulky Shutter Priority iteration of the F2 called the F2 AS, and the FG - that had Program Mode) to control aperture electronically. Lens aperture mechanisms in the AI and prior lenses with their absence of the notch could still be controlled by the FA, but the AI position of the EE Switch contacts signaled the digital and analogue electronics that a different delay in the aperture control was in order.. So a correct exposure was always secured, and that may be why another responder on this thread saw no difference when using the FA with either AI-s or AI lenses - even assuming he was using S or P modes, for which the notch and all the related engineering updates came into effect. Manual and Aperture Priority modes on the FA operated the same old way since in these modes, the body does not control lens aperture.
The same responder fell into the urban myth (and I've seen this error in books published by "reputable" authors) that the notch communicated lens focal length to the FA body. That is not so - it is there to tell of it's linear aperture mechanism, and that is all. AI-s lenses with focal lengths 135mm or greater, zooms with 135mm focal length in their range and teleconverters, had a ridge at the very back of the lens - further into the mirror box when mounted, that activates the "fmm" switch to either of two positions that took into account the presence of a teleconverter, or a lens whose focal length was 135mm or greater. This automatically facilitated higher shutter speeds (and larger apertures) in P (Program) mode to help alleviate the effects of camera shake. Shorter focal lengths and the absence of a teleconverter had no need of this provision of P mode operation. If you were operating an AI or prior lens of longer focal length in P mode, you could wind up with shutter speeds that may be considered too slow for hand-held operation. But these earlier lenses were designed before the later P mode implementations were dreamed of in Nikonland.
Thanks for commenting
Excellent explanation. Thank you.
Glad it was useful - thank you