Obviously, the gauge on the back is not in mm. It's the bevel angle and the markings are in degrees. There is also a vernier feature to get 0.5 degree angles with similar accuracy. Tilting all the way to the right requires the tall fence piece to be fully removed (unlike tilting to the left) because there is a greater distance from the blade to the right sliding support based on the mechanics of the saw carriage, motor, and drive train. It's not a mystery. Same with miter angle adjustment, it's degrees not mm.
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Regarding the dust boot, you can avoid ever cutting it if you simply cuff or fold it back when doing certain angled cuts.
Great review the good the bad and the ugly you covered the lot 😁
Thank you, much appreciated!!
I have looked at the Bosch version too.
Not sure what I will go for.
But yep, Festool is incredibly expensive.
A shame really
I’ve had mine for 11 years. It looks knackered but it’s still more accurate than anything else.
You need to watch the lessons produced by Festool. That would address #2 and #3 and #5 on your dislike list. Blades? How is that a Festool issue?
Obviously, the gauge on the back is not in mm. It's the bevel angle and the markings are in degrees. There is also a vernier feature to get 0.5 degree angles with similar accuracy. Tilting all the way to the right requires the tall fence piece to be fully removed (unlike tilting to the left) because there is a greater distance from the blade to the right sliding support based on the mechanics of the saw carriage, motor, and drive train. It's not a mystery.
Same with miter angle adjustment, it's degrees not mm.
How may Tim have you changed the blade?
Many times, as I use different blades for different jobs with high teeth blades doing finer work and less teeth for cutting studs etc