Nothing is senseless if it helps you get the job done correctly. I do many things like this just because I want to and it helps me and I could care less if others agree or not. Nice work.
I'm not a machinist, but watching and listening to your old-school wisdom is relaxing and informative. I'm certain you were well-loved by your students, and bet you shaped many of their lives and careers. I can just tell...
Mr. Pete- Thanks for all of your informative videos! I always learn something even though we are around the same age. Thanks again and please keep it up. Mike Ryan
really wish we had yard sales and estate sales in our area like you seem to have in yours - you certain seem to come across a LOT more nice tools than I ever seem to be able to find...... i'm a little envious!
They're your tools so you can do what you want with them. :) Getting older now and the eyes aren't what they used to be so I highly agree with the adjustment. Thanks for the video.
I really enjoy all your videos. Fowler tools was located in my hometown of Auburndale, Massachusetts and the founder, Fred Fowler offered me a job in 1962. The job has to repair precision tools and I am not sure why I did not accept the offer. Fortunately I landed a career with AT&T Longlines doing something similar. At the time Fred gave a digital caliper which I still have.
Great Fix, I have cursed my mikes for years (with no effect)as my vision goes and I have to use magnification. I have now applied your fix, and it's now a joy to play with them again. thank you again.
Great information and video! My young grandson bought a 5 ~ 6" mitutoyo micrometer at a flea market that was in a wood box. He told me that it turned to tight and took it apart, then he could not get it back together, correctly. I did not realize that there was a spanner wrench to zero it! Now I have the information to see if he has that wrench and the proper gauge blocks. I need the information also, on using the end adjustment and taking it apart. You, as always, have been a great help.
You did a great job on that. Also I asked you a question a few months ago about my south bend heavy 10 headstock bearings getting hot. You were right on. It was the take up nut being to tight. Thank you and best wishes friend.
This is a great video. It shows the perfectionist attitude towards his work! Everyone should take pride and note this excellent description and instruction. An art that is being lost and needs to be embraced again! This is an excellent project that displays knowledge, skill, focus and finishing. This person intended to fix the micrometer where others would just "Throw it away". What if you didn't have that luxury? The overall goal is to make it better than it was, and after disassembly, cleaning, truing, reassembly and zeroing this micrometer will provide accurate measurements again. I also believe this type of instruction should be reintroduced again in high school, Boys Scouts, FFA, 4H and other organizations.
Lyle, just a note ; when I was working on the RR boring wheels to press on the axles we would adjust our inside mic's.oo9 off to machine in the right fit on the wheels. of course those mic's were dedicated to that job. So if that micrometerwas used in a factory they might have been set to make the fit for a shaft/ bearing. Thanks enjoyed!!
As I recall, the Lufkin micrometers had a collet that retained the spindle, so this kind of adjustment could be made without the machining operation you've shown. The B&S "slant line" micrometers were developed to avoid the reading problem you've described, but I never liked them.
This is exactly what I needed to know. My cheap Indian mic has the lines buried by about 12-15 thou. Ist so annoying I’m concerned I’ll miss measure something by .025” I thought about turning the end of the barrel down but it’s so tight I’m afraid I’ll break something duetting it off. I never thought about turning the thimble back a bit. Now I can turn it into a useable tool Thanks Mr P. ;)
Personally when i store my mics i use custom made plastic tips (a little bit of heat forming on some thin plastic sheet) that i've lined with that awesome anti rust paper dipped in oil. Perfect for long term storage, never had a spot of rust on any of my mics.
Well, the information alone is well worth far much more than the $5 you spent on the micrometer! Man, I wish we could get stuff like that on our garage sales here down in Texas. Bunch of baby clothes and old toys is all you can hope for...
Hi Mr.Pete! I bought a used Mitutoyo 0-1 mic that had this exact problem, only worse-- 12thou to be exact. Otherwise it was beautiful and by doing a TH-cam search I found your remedy for my problem. The nice thing is that one can fine tune a mic with this issue to suit their personal preference. I followed your suggestions and now have a usable instrument that I can read and suits my needs. Thanks! George in Pa
I've got the same issue with my Mitutoyo - disappointed frankly. I just spent a TON of money on a 126-137 0 - 1" thread micrometer, a 126-139 2" - 3" thread micrometer, and a complete set of interchangeable anvils. Purchased good to excellent quality used, but still over $750. I could have purchased the high quality Chinese units with the vernier scale for around $220 for a set of three thread micrometers 0 - 1, 1 - 2, and 2 - 3; AND a complete set of anvils. Hope I "only cry once" with this purchase. Overall, Mitutoyo is my go-to brand so I'm probably going to be satisfied after this tune up. More importantly, Thanks Mr. Pete!
I liked the video I didn't know of some of the adjustments that were were on it Thanks for the information. This was a great help to me. I also have one that is giving me a fit now it works fine thanks again.
Art J. Good idea Mr. Pete. Most .025 errors in reading a micrometer are as a result of the zero line being slightly hidden by the end of the thimble. Another great tip! Thanks!
I like the older Brown and Sharpe Slant Line mikes for ease of reading. You get deeply engraved lines and numbers. The barrel and thimble are satin chrome. The lines and numbers are filled with black ink. When viewed against the satin chrome background there is a lot of visual contrast making the mike easy to read. The Slant Lines are especially easy to read when using a depth mikes since the lines are numbered in reverse order. More recent mikes of many brands have only lightly laser etched lines and numbers making them very hard to read. I collect high grad micrometers. Some times they are terrible to read compared to an ancient set of Reed, Scherr-Tumico or Tubular mike with the deeply engraved lines and numbers.
Thanks for being there at just the right time. Recently obtained Starrett 2" mic, and the lines on the barrel must be completely covered for the mic to be read, "I hate it when that happens". Could not imagine how to remedy the situation till stumbled across your Video. Thanks again. By the way your sign-off always reminds me of Paul Harvey's sign-off, Thats a good thing.
I always zero mine out to check and see where the thimble lines up. I do like your idea though. I just may tune up my mics one day. Thanks for sharing! All the best! Mike
as usual learn something every video you are one of those teacher,s who should have been paid on merit i bet you have former student,s still thanking you
I liked the video and I agree with you on where the line is, my 1 inch mitutoyo mic does the same thing it splits the line I find this a problem when you try to read the 25 50 and 75 marks.
Hey Mr. Pete, Guess what, that's your Mic, and you can do what ever you want to do with it. And I wish I made some trips up in the Heartland to some of your great sales.
Great idea! I have had an ancient Starrett, with never a problem reading, but lately other brands of micrometer I have are confusing me, and now the penny has dropped. THANKS.
That's a rebranded NSK mic. I have NSK mics and I like them alot. They aren't collected like some brands so you can get them reasonably priced. SPI also rebranded NSK mics and I own an SPI mechanical digital mic that's made by NSK. I really like NSK instruments. Japanese quality. I have 2 NSK dial indicators, one I got that looks pristine, with a magnetic stand for 35 bucks. I also have an NSK height gauge I got NOS for 110 bucks. I could never get a Starrett NOS for that. It's vernier and has a movable magnifier which I've never seen on any other vernier gauge. Cheers Mr Pete!
This explains a Starrett No. 209 marked Autocar Co. that I picked up off of eBay. The front edge of the barrel is trimmed down such that the edge of the adjustment notch is open and the very bottom of the numbers are gone.
Part of the joy of owning and using tools is modifying them until they work best for you. Someone who's tools are all in pristine condition is someone who never uses their tools.
For mics that you loan out to people, face off .0125. Drive 'em nuts trying to figure out whether they're measuring .250 or .275! I wasn't enthusiastic about this idea until I looked at my Starrett 1-2" a minute ago. Now I think uncovering the line is a great idea. It's a lot better idea than it was 25 years ago.
Perhaps you didn't need to modify the thimble. But anything you can do to help make your tools work for you instead of against you should be seen as a necessity. Especially in this day and age. Thanks for the video. I just bought a cheapo Amazon 0-6" set of vernier mics. I think I'm confident enough now to tune them up nice enough for the occasional work that I do that requires a modest amount of precision. Maybe one day I'll get gifted some nice Starrets. I just don't use them enough to warrant the cash spent on nice things. That, and I've developed a knack for getting cheap things to do what I need. Which in this case is basically an adjustable go/no-go gauge for deciding which parts go to the machine shop and which parts go to the scrap heap.
Thanks for the video. It helped me personally a lot thank you Every time you say that to lose lautrec gag I think of my father. He could not say to lose without following it up with lautrec!
I agree with your closing statement - it was perfect before you messed with it, but it was interesting to see the inside. I'm wondering if there isn't some way to adjust this - otherwise how do they make it so that the micrometer always reads zero on the front, there must be some way to adjust the spindle relative to the thimble.
Mr Pete, I personally like to split the hair, and then if the zero doesn't line up, then I can tell something is amiss. But, I just want to say that I'm a wet behind the ears newbie. I don't have a lathe, but I'd like to get one. i really don't know much AT ALL about machining except what I learn from you. I do like your video, as it is good to learn how to machine this shape. Thanks
I've got a trio of Grizzly mic's (not their cheapest) that have proved to be quite consistent, but they also almost bury the line. Now I know what to look for. I hope all it takes is getting the barrel seated a little better in it's socket. If not, well, I now know what my other options are (after the warranty has expired, of course)...
I should be able to snuggly, slip standard back between the anvils on each one of my (6) 0-6" micrometers with respective standard? It seems like only my 0-1" mic is able to slip the standard. Thanks
There is a name I forgot about. Fowler. Not a big fan of Fowler, but they are better than Chinesium tools. I hate to admit it, but I like Mitutoyo just fine, or SPI. Starrette is the old American made standard. The Japanese electric guitars rival American guitars in price, and usually exceed them in quality now. Is that the same Mauser that made the Mauser 1898 rifle? I need another 24" deep 2" micrometer. Those get sprung pretty easily. I think I'd use a small Arkansas stone rather than the file, but it's your shop! God bless you, Mr Pete!
I've never worried much about where the edge of the thimble made the line, as long as the line is visible. I own mics that run from splitting the mark to full exposure,ad use at work mics that do both, as well. I check the zero each use,because I can't keep track. If I didn't have to use tools that were not in my control, I would probably do what you did for consistency.
I bought a Tumico that I wasn't able to adjust the thimble for calibration, I ended up taking the thimble out and heated it with a hot air gun and that allowed the oil or grease that had hardened to release and I was able to adjust it after that. Just a hint for anyone that runs into that problem.
when ever I have that problem the first thing going I do is make sure the barrel is fully seated. most times that fixes the problem. when you reassembled the barrel it was seated better than at first, that's why it went from .007 to .004.
Great video. I probably have some mics that could use this modification. Were my eyes deceiving me, or is the handle on your 12” Atlas compound missing one of the “finger grips”?
I don't know if I would ever do that, but it was interesting all the same. Mind you I paid a lot more than $5 for my micrometers and it might explain my reluctance ;)
I recently found a Mitutoyo "Combimike" analog-digital micrometer at a pawn shop. It's in good shape, but it needs to be cleaned. I'd like to take it apart to clean and oil it, but I didn't know if it's safe to take it apart with the analog counter. Do you have any experience with taking apart analog counter micrometers? Thanks for any info.
No argument here, absolutely easier to read. I'm gonna get out my air tools and fix all of mine now ! (just kiddin') I recently bought a Fowler dial bore gauge and am gonna take it back. Browne and Sharpe or Starrett never disappoint me.
It's a matter of personal preference with regards to the relative location of the zero line... I just checked a couple of my micrometers, including my first one, made by Mitutoyo, and they are like the original condition on those Fowler's you modified... The edge of the thimble collar comes from the factory - on some manufacturers' offerings - set to split the little number 0 and the line. I'm fine with that, but if it bugs you, by all means modify your tools to suit your preferences. It's not like a $5 yard sale find is a collector's item after all... at least not in this case! ;^) Regards, Eric
good job I got a mic I need to fix like that.the one's that wine aboult what u did ain't old enough to understand yet but they will in time if they live long enough
Does the little collet thread tightener thingamajig also serve to prevent the backlash or is it simply the case of having all the threads so finely machined that backlash isn't an issue?
+Mark Ganson removal of backlash is the primary purpose. snug enough to remove backlash substantially, but not restrict proper operation. wear in one part of the range can pretty much ruin the tool for general purpose use
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Nothing is senseless if it helps you get the job done correctly. I do many things like this just because I want to and it helps me and I could care less if others agree or not.
Nice work.
Nice video and repair , the older we get the more we can appreciate being able to see something clearly !
Mr. Pete, informative and relevant as always.
I'm not a machinist, but watching and listening to your old-school wisdom is relaxing and informative. I'm certain you were well-loved by your students, and bet you shaped many of their lives and careers. I can just tell...
Very informative mrpete. I see no problem whatsoever in making a tool work exactly how you need it to work.Thanks for sharing. regards from the UK
Mr. Pete- Thanks for all of your informative videos! I always learn something even though we are around the same age. Thanks again and please keep it up.
Mike Ryan
really wish we had yard sales and estate sales in our area like you seem to have in yours - you certain seem to come across a LOT more nice tools than I ever seem to be able to find...... i'm a little envious!
Well done Mr. Pete; thanks for sharing!
You know, I have never, not once, found any machine tools at a yard sale...
Lyle,
I always learn something watching your videos.
Hi Mr. Pete. Your skill and attention to detail are splendid! Wonderful video. Thanx
I like to see the 0 line as well , Great fix !
Your work ethic is perfectly demonstrated every-single time I watch anyone of your videos , and alot of great info.....Thank ya,Sir!!!
Thank you very much
They're your tools so you can do what you want with them. :) Getting older now and the eyes aren't what they used to be so I highly agree with the adjustment. Thanks for the video.
Nice repair. Definitely easier to know for sure that you have reached that line when you can fully see it.
Job well done Mr. Pete great information .
Outstanding video! I'm ""wrestling" with the same "zero line covered up" issue. This looks like an easy fix - thank you!
I really enjoy all your videos. Fowler tools was located in my hometown of Auburndale, Massachusetts and the founder, Fred Fowler offered me a job in 1962. The job has to repair precision tools and I am not sure why I did not accept the offer. Fortunately I landed a career with AT&T Longlines doing something similar. At the time Fred gave a digital caliper which I still have.
Wonderfully informative! Thanks Mr Pete.
Great Fix, I have cursed my mikes for years (with no effect)as my vision goes and I have to use magnification. I have now applied your fix, and it's now a joy to play with them again. thank you again.
Thank you for watching
Great information and video! My young grandson bought a 5 ~ 6" mitutoyo micrometer at a flea market that was in a wood box. He told me that it turned to tight and took it apart, then he could not get it back together, correctly. I did not realize that there was a spanner wrench to zero it! Now I have the information to see if he has that wrench and the proper gauge blocks. I need the information also, on using the end adjustment and taking it apart. You, as always, have been a great help.
You did a great job on that. Also I asked you a question a few months ago about my south bend heavy 10 headstock bearings getting hot. You were right on. It was the take up nut being to tight. Thank you and best wishes friend.
👍👍
That's a neat trick. I have one that does that. What a pain.
Now I know how to fix it.
Thanks,
John
This is a great video. It shows the perfectionist attitude towards his work! Everyone should take pride and note this excellent description and instruction. An art that is being lost and needs to be embraced again! This is an excellent project that displays knowledge, skill, focus and finishing. This person intended to fix the micrometer where others would just "Throw it away". What if you didn't have that luxury? The overall goal is to make it better than it was, and after disassembly, cleaning, truing, reassembly and zeroing this micrometer will provide accurate measurements again. I also believe this type of instruction should be reintroduced again in high school, Boys Scouts, FFA, 4H and other organizations.
Thank you very much. Everything you said is very true
Lyle, just a note ; when I was working on the RR boring wheels to press on the axles we would adjust our inside mic's.oo9 off to machine in the right fit on the wheels. of course those mic's were dedicated to that job. So if that micrometerwas used in a factory they might have been set to make the fit for a shaft/ bearing. Thanks enjoyed!!
Once again, Mr. Pete to the rescue! I had this exact problem and didn’t ‘now how to fix it. Now I do. Live long and prosper Mr. Pete!
Thanks
I love your videos alys look forward to watching them
That is a matter of personal preference and however you want it is the right way. Thanks for the video.
As I recall, the Lufkin micrometers had a collet that retained the spindle, so this kind of adjustment could be made without the machining operation you've shown.
The B&S "slant line" micrometers were developed to avoid the reading problem you've described, but I never liked them.
+MrShobar
Your right,most mics have adjustment in the thimble so you can "zero" them without having to machine them
really enjoyed learning about a partial line vs a full. Thanks.
another great video - and thank you for the detailed information!
This is exactly what I needed to know. My cheap Indian mic has the lines buried by about 12-15 thou.
Ist so annoying I’m concerned I’ll miss measure something by .025”
I thought about turning the end of the barrel down but it’s so tight I’m afraid I’ll break something duetting it off.
I never thought about turning the thimble back a bit. Now I can turn it into a useable tool
Thanks Mr P. ;)
What an artsy pun ;)
I have a Fowler myself, same issue, so this video is very much appreciated.
Personally when i store my mics i use custom made plastic tips (a little bit of heat forming on some thin plastic sheet) that i've lined with that awesome anti rust paper dipped in oil. Perfect for long term storage, never had a spot of rust on any of my mics.
Well, the information alone is well worth far much more than the $5 you spent on the micrometer! Man, I wish we could get stuff like that on our garage sales here down in Texas. Bunch of baby clothes and old toys is all you can hope for...
Hi Mr.Pete!
I bought a used Mitutoyo 0-1 mic that had this exact problem, only worse-- 12thou to be exact. Otherwise it was beautiful and by doing a TH-cam search I found your remedy for my problem. The nice thing is that one can fine tune a mic with this issue to suit their personal preference. I followed your suggestions and now have a usable instrument that I can read and suits my needs. Thanks! George in Pa
👍👍👍
I've got the same issue with my Mitutoyo - disappointed frankly. I just spent a TON of money on a 126-137 0 - 1" thread micrometer, a 126-139 2" - 3" thread micrometer, and a complete set of interchangeable anvils. Purchased good to excellent quality used, but still over $750. I could have purchased the high quality Chinese units with the vernier scale for around $220 for a set of three thread micrometers 0 - 1, 1 - 2, and 2 - 3; AND a complete set of anvils. Hope I "only cry once" with this purchase. Overall, Mitutoyo is my go-to brand so I'm probably going to be satisfied after this tune up. More importantly, Thanks Mr. Pete!
I liked the video I didn't know of some of the adjustments that were were on it Thanks for the information.
This was a great help to me. I also have one that is giving me a fit now it works fine thanks again.
Art J. Good idea Mr. Pete. Most .025 errors in reading a micrometer are as a result of the zero line being slightly hidden by the end of the thimble. Another great tip! Thanks!
Great idea and thanks for the instructions, Greg ( a former meticulous arranger of artistic burnt clay products...bricklayer!)
I like the older Brown and Sharpe Slant Line mikes for ease of reading.
You get deeply engraved lines and numbers. The barrel and thimble are satin chrome. The lines and numbers are filled with black ink. When viewed against the satin chrome background there is a lot of visual contrast making the mike easy to read.
The Slant Lines are especially easy to read when using a depth mikes since the lines are numbered in reverse order.
More recent mikes of many brands have only lightly laser etched lines and numbers making them very hard to read. I collect high grad micrometers. Some times they are terrible to read compared to an ancient set of Reed, Scherr-Tumico or Tubular mike with the deeply engraved lines and numbers.
Appreciate the tips on how to store a micrometer.
Thanks for being there at just the right time. Recently obtained Starrett 2" mic, and the lines on the barrel must be completely covered for the mic to be read, "I hate it when that happens". Could not imagine how to remedy the situation till stumbled across your Video. Thanks again. By the way your sign-off always reminds me of Paul Harvey's sign-off, Thats a good thing.
Thanks for watching
I always zero mine out to check and see where the thimble lines up. I do like your idea though. I just may tune up my mics one day.
Thanks for sharing!
All the best!
Mike
as usual, great information. thank you.
as usual learn something every video you are one of those teacher,s who should have been paid on merit i bet you have former student,s still thanking you
Fascinating. I knew nothing of any of this. Thanks.
I liked the video and I agree with you on where the line is, my 1 inch mitutoyo mic does the same thing it splits the line I find this a problem when you try to read the 25 50 and 75 marks.
great job I also struggle with the lines on occasion
Excellent idea! Wish I had thought of it before buying digital micrometers because I could not see the lines properly.
Hey Mr. Pete, Guess what, that's your Mic, and you can do what ever you want to do with it. And I wish I made some trips up in the Heartland to some of your great sales.
Great idea! I have had an ancient Starrett, with never a problem reading, but lately other brands of micrometer I have are confusing me, and now the penny has dropped. THANKS.
That's a rebranded NSK mic. I have NSK mics and I like them alot. They aren't collected like some brands so you can get them reasonably priced. SPI also rebranded NSK mics and I own an SPI mechanical digital mic that's made by NSK. I really like NSK instruments. Japanese quality. I have 2 NSK dial indicators, one I got that looks pristine, with a magnetic stand for 35 bucks. I also have an NSK height gauge I got NOS for 110 bucks. I could never get a Starrett NOS for that. It's vernier and has a movable magnifier which I've never seen on any other vernier gauge. Cheers Mr Pete!
Thank you for that analysis. I agree that they seem to be very high-quality. But I very seldom run across one
This explains a Starrett No. 209 marked Autocar Co. that I picked up off of eBay. The front edge of the barrel is trimmed down such that the edge of the adjustment notch is open and the very bottom of the numbers are gone.
Part of the joy of owning and using tools is modifying them until they work best for you. Someone who's tools are all in pristine condition is someone who never uses their tools.
For mics that you loan out to people, face off .0125. Drive 'em nuts trying to figure out whether they're measuring .250 or .275!
I wasn't enthusiastic about this idea until I looked at my Starrett 1-2" a minute ago. Now I think uncovering the line is a great idea. It's a lot better idea than it was 25 years ago.
I kept thinking, "Only take .002-.003 off of it" and It turns out that would have been enough, butI like your style... Nice video.
+10 i have one that is so bad i have count the tick marks. i abhor using it. i think you are spot on mr pete
Great video Lyle. I need to do this to one of mine, it has always annoyed me that I would have to go past to verify I was on the correct line.
Perhaps you didn't need to modify the thimble. But anything you can do to help make your tools work for you instead of against you should be seen as a necessity. Especially in this day and age.
Thanks for the video. I just bought a cheapo Amazon 0-6" set of vernier mics. I think I'm confident enough now to tune them up nice enough for the occasional work that I do that requires a modest amount of precision. Maybe one day I'll get gifted some nice Starrets. I just don't use them enough to warrant the cash spent on nice things. That, and I've developed a knack for getting cheap things to do what I need. Which in this case is basically an adjustable go/no-go gauge for deciding which parts go to the machine shop and which parts go to the scrap heap.
Thanks for the video. It helped me personally a lot thank you
Every time you say that to lose lautrec gag I think of my father. He could not say to lose without following it up with lautrec!
lol
Thank You, Mr Pete!
So you circumcised a micrometer? Love it Mr Pete. I had teachers like you in HS. A bit cantankerous but so much knowledge to share.
I like that and the old eyes are not as good as they use to be and that is very helpful
I agree with your closing statement - it was perfect before you messed with it, but it was interesting to see the inside.
I'm wondering if there isn't some way to adjust this - otherwise how do they make it so that the micrometer always reads zero on the front, there must be some way to adjust the spindle relative to the thimble.
I kind of like to see that line also. Good video Mr. Pete.
🤙
Mr Pete, I personally like to split the hair, and then if the zero doesn't line up, then I can tell something is amiss. But, I just want to say that I'm a wet behind the ears newbie. I don't have a lathe, but I'd like to get one. i really don't know much AT ALL about machining except what I learn from you. I do like your video, as it is good to learn how to machine this shape. Thanks
I learned a lot! Thanks...
I've got a trio of Grizzly mic's (not their cheapest) that have proved to be quite consistent, but they also almost bury the line. Now I know what to look for. I hope all it takes is getting the barrel seated a little better in it's socket. If not, well, I now know what my other options are (after the warranty has expired, of course)...
Thank you for the great content. Shalom
Thanks
I should be able to snuggly, slip standard back between the anvils
on each one of my (6) 0-6" micrometers with respective standard?
It seems like only my 0-1" mic is able to slip the standard.
Thanks
There is a name I forgot about. Fowler. Not a big fan of Fowler, but they are better than Chinesium tools. I hate to admit it, but I like Mitutoyo just fine, or SPI. Starrette is the old American made standard. The Japanese electric guitars rival American guitars in price, and usually exceed them in quality now. Is that the same Mauser that made the Mauser 1898 rifle? I need another 24" deep 2" micrometer. Those get sprung pretty easily. I think I'd use a small Arkansas stone rather than the file, but it's your shop! God bless you, Mr Pete!
I've never worried much about where the edge of the thimble made the line, as long as the line is visible. I own mics that run from splitting the mark to full exposure,ad use at work mics that do both, as well. I check the zero each use,because I can't keep track. If I didn't have to use tools that were not in my control, I would probably do what you did for consistency.
not having the line exposed would drive me nuts also , great fix
Great idea I think I will do this to some of my micrometers
👍
Way to go Mark Polley, now I don't have to say it. Great Video as always mrpete!
I bought a Tumico that I wasn't able to adjust the thimble for calibration, I ended up taking the thimble out and heated it with a hot air gun and that allowed the oil or grease that had hardened to release and I was able to adjust it after that. Just a hint for anyone that runs into that problem.
Thanks
when ever I have that problem the first thing going I do is make sure the barrel is fully seated. most times that fixes the problem. when you reassembled the barrel it was seated better than at first, that's why it went from .007 to .004.
Great video . I used to have thw same problem . I know how to solve it now . Many thanks .
Thanks
Great video. I probably have some mics that could use this modification. Were my eyes deceiving me, or is the handle on your 12” Atlas compound missing one of the “finger grips”?
THANK YOU...for sharing.
Awesome video! Do another myth breakers please!!
I don't know if I would ever do that, but it was interesting all the same. Mind you I paid a lot more than $5 for my micrometers and it might explain my reluctance ;)
Great info thank you sir
Good show! Very informative and transparent..... I suppose this ILK of micrometer is now disdained in favour of those with digital readouts....?
I recently found a Mitutoyo "Combimike" analog-digital micrometer at a pawn shop. It's in good shape, but it needs to be cleaned. I'd like to take it apart to clean and oil it, but I didn't know if it's safe to take it apart with the analog counter. Do you have any experience with taking apart analog counter micrometers? Thanks for any info.
Awesome video
Thanks
I've got a one inch Starret it doesn't have any corrosion like yours. I like the old tools better than the new stuff.
Great! I have one to repair. Thanks
No argument here, absolutely easier to read. I'm gonna get out my air tools and fix all of mine now ! (just kiddin') I recently bought a Fowler dial bore gauge and am gonna take it back. Browne and Sharpe or Starrett never disappoint me.
Thanks yes
It's a matter of personal preference with regards to the relative location of the zero line... I just checked a couple of my micrometers, including my first one, made by Mitutoyo, and they are like the original condition on those Fowler's you modified...
The edge of the thimble collar comes from the factory - on some manufacturers' offerings - set to split the little number 0 and the line. I'm fine with that, but if it bugs you, by all means modify your tools to suit your preferences. It's not like a $5 yard sale find is a collector's item after all... at least not in this case! ;^)
Regards,
Eric
I am w/ya 100%, been there ~ done that !!!
Great idea.
On a Measumax micrometer this is adjustable once you separate the thimble from the spindle taper.
No doubt about it, the line is more visible.
Thanks
Halo It was very interesting this video. I have a question. What about backlash of the pitch?
Thank you for sharing sir....
I like the line has well young mr 222 💥
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My opinion is that this it the height of detail and why a good portion of the people watch your productions.
Thanks for watching.
Thanks Pete
good job I got a mic I need to fix like that.the one's that wine aboult what u did ain't old enough to understand yet but they will in time if they live long enough
Looks like a Mitutoyo mic. Wonder if thats who was making them for Fowler at that time.
Does the little collet thread tightener thingamajig also serve to prevent the backlash or is it simply the case of having all the threads so finely machined that backlash isn't an issue?
+Mark Ganson removal of backlash is the primary purpose. snug enough to remove backlash substantially, but not restrict proper operation. wear in one part of the range can pretty much ruin the tool for general purpose use