Nothing is senseless if it helps you get the job done correctly. I do many things like this just because I want to and it helps me and I could care less if others agree or not. Nice work.
I'm not a machinist, but watching and listening to your old-school wisdom is relaxing and informative. I'm certain you were well-loved by your students, and bet you shaped many of their lives and careers. I can just tell...
Mr. Pete- Thanks for all of your informative videos! I always learn something even though we are around the same age. Thanks again and please keep it up. Mike Ryan
really wish we had yard sales and estate sales in our area like you seem to have in yours - you certain seem to come across a LOT more nice tools than I ever seem to be able to find...... i'm a little envious!
This is a great video. It shows the perfectionist attitude towards his work! Everyone should take pride and note this excellent description and instruction. An art that is being lost and needs to be embraced again! This is an excellent project that displays knowledge, skill, focus and finishing. This person intended to fix the micrometer where others would just "Throw it away". What if you didn't have that luxury? The overall goal is to make it better than it was, and after disassembly, cleaning, truing, reassembly and zeroing this micrometer will provide accurate measurements again. I also believe this type of instruction should be reintroduced again in high school, Boys Scouts, FFA, 4H and other organizations.
I really enjoy all your videos. Fowler tools was located in my hometown of Auburndale, Massachusetts and the founder, Fred Fowler offered me a job in 1962. The job has to repair precision tools and I am not sure why I did not accept the offer. Fortunately I landed a career with AT&T Longlines doing something similar. At the time Fred gave a digital caliper which I still have.
Great Fix, I have cursed my mikes for years (with no effect)as my vision goes and I have to use magnification. I have now applied your fix, and it's now a joy to play with them again. thank you again.
Hi Mr.Pete! I bought a used Mitutoyo 0-1 mic that had this exact problem, only worse-- 12thou to be exact. Otherwise it was beautiful and by doing a TH-cam search I found your remedy for my problem. The nice thing is that one can fine tune a mic with this issue to suit their personal preference. I followed your suggestions and now have a usable instrument that I can read and suits my needs. Thanks! George in Pa
I've got the same issue with my Mitutoyo - disappointed frankly. I just spent a TON of money on a 126-137 0 - 1" thread micrometer, a 126-139 2" - 3" thread micrometer, and a complete set of interchangeable anvils. Purchased good to excellent quality used, but still over $750. I could have purchased the high quality Chinese units with the vernier scale for around $220 for a set of three thread micrometers 0 - 1, 1 - 2, and 2 - 3; AND a complete set of anvils. Hope I "only cry once" with this purchase. Overall, Mitutoyo is my go-to brand so I'm probably going to be satisfied after this tune up. More importantly, Thanks Mr. Pete!
Well, the information alone is well worth far much more than the $5 you spent on the micrometer! Man, I wish we could get stuff like that on our garage sales here down in Texas. Bunch of baby clothes and old toys is all you can hope for...
Great information and video! My young grandson bought a 5 ~ 6" mitutoyo micrometer at a flea market that was in a wood box. He told me that it turned to tight and took it apart, then he could not get it back together, correctly. I did not realize that there was a spanner wrench to zero it! Now I have the information to see if he has that wrench and the proper gauge blocks. I need the information also, on using the end adjustment and taking it apart. You, as always, have been a great help.
You did a great job on that. Also I asked you a question a few months ago about my south bend heavy 10 headstock bearings getting hot. You were right on. It was the take up nut being to tight. Thank you and best wishes friend.
They're your tools so you can do what you want with them. :) Getting older now and the eyes aren't what they used to be so I highly agree with the adjustment. Thanks for the video.
Lyle, just a note ; when I was working on the RR boring wheels to press on the axles we would adjust our inside mic's.oo9 off to machine in the right fit on the wheels. of course those mic's were dedicated to that job. So if that micrometerwas used in a factory they might have been set to make the fit for a shaft/ bearing. Thanks enjoyed!!
As I recall, the Lufkin micrometers had a collet that retained the spindle, so this kind of adjustment could be made without the machining operation you've shown. The B&S "slant line" micrometers were developed to avoid the reading problem you've described, but I never liked them.
Personally when i store my mics i use custom made plastic tips (a little bit of heat forming on some thin plastic sheet) that i've lined with that awesome anti rust paper dipped in oil. Perfect for long term storage, never had a spot of rust on any of my mics.
Art J. Good idea Mr. Pete. Most .025 errors in reading a micrometer are as a result of the zero line being slightly hidden by the end of the thimble. Another great tip! Thanks!
I always zero mine out to check and see where the thimble lines up. I do like your idea though. I just may tune up my mics one day. Thanks for sharing! All the best! Mike
as usual learn something every video you are one of those teacher,s who should have been paid on merit i bet you have former student,s still thanking you
I agree with your closing statement - it was perfect before you messed with it, but it was interesting to see the inside. I'm wondering if there isn't some way to adjust this - otherwise how do they make it so that the micrometer always reads zero on the front, there must be some way to adjust the spindle relative to the thimble.
Hey Mr. Pete, Guess what, that's your Mic, and you can do what ever you want to do with it. And I wish I made some trips up in the Heartland to some of your great sales.
I like the older Brown and Sharpe Slant Line mikes for ease of reading. You get deeply engraved lines and numbers. The barrel and thimble are satin chrome. The lines and numbers are filled with black ink. When viewed against the satin chrome background there is a lot of visual contrast making the mike easy to read. The Slant Lines are especially easy to read when using a depth mikes since the lines are numbered in reverse order. More recent mikes of many brands have only lightly laser etched lines and numbers making them very hard to read. I collect high grad micrometers. Some times they are terrible to read compared to an ancient set of Reed, Scherr-Tumico or Tubular mike with the deeply engraved lines and numbers.
That's a rebranded NSK mic. I have NSK mics and I like them alot. They aren't collected like some brands so you can get them reasonably priced. SPI also rebranded NSK mics and I own an SPI mechanical digital mic that's made by NSK. I really like NSK instruments. Japanese quality. I have 2 NSK dial indicators, one I got that looks pristine, with a magnetic stand for 35 bucks. I also have an NSK height gauge I got NOS for 110 bucks. I could never get a Starrett NOS for that. It's vernier and has a movable magnifier which I've never seen on any other vernier gauge. Cheers Mr Pete!
Thanks for being there at just the right time. Recently obtained Starrett 2" mic, and the lines on the barrel must be completely covered for the mic to be read, "I hate it when that happens". Could not imagine how to remedy the situation till stumbled across your Video. Thanks again. By the way your sign-off always reminds me of Paul Harvey's sign-off, Thats a good thing.
I liked the video I didn't know of some of the adjustments that were were on it Thanks for the information. This was a great help to me. I also have one that is giving me a fit now it works fine thanks again.
I liked the video and I agree with you on where the line is, my 1 inch mitutoyo mic does the same thing it splits the line I find this a problem when you try to read the 25 50 and 75 marks.
Great idea! I have had an ancient Starrett, with never a problem reading, but lately other brands of micrometer I have are confusing me, and now the penny has dropped. THANKS.
Mr Pete, I personally like to split the hair, and then if the zero doesn't line up, then I can tell something is amiss. But, I just want to say that I'm a wet behind the ears newbie. I don't have a lathe, but I'd like to get one. i really don't know much AT ALL about machining except what I learn from you. I do like your video, as it is good to learn how to machine this shape. Thanks
I've never worried much about where the edge of the thimble made the line, as long as the line is visible. I own mics that run from splitting the mark to full exposure,ad use at work mics that do both, as well. I check the zero each use,because I can't keep track. If I didn't have to use tools that were not in my control, I would probably do what you did for consistency.
This explains a Starrett No. 209 marked Autocar Co. that I picked up off of eBay. The front edge of the barrel is trimmed down such that the edge of the adjustment notch is open and the very bottom of the numbers are gone.
I've got a trio of Grizzly mic's (not their cheapest) that have proved to be quite consistent, but they also almost bury the line. Now I know what to look for. I hope all it takes is getting the barrel seated a little better in it's socket. If not, well, I now know what my other options are (after the warranty has expired, of course)...
when ever I have that problem the first thing going I do is make sure the barrel is fully seated. most times that fixes the problem. when you reassembled the barrel it was seated better than at first, that's why it went from .007 to .004.
Thanks for the video. It helped me personally a lot thank you Every time you say that to lose lautrec gag I think of my father. He could not say to lose without following it up with lautrec!
This is exactly what I needed to know. My cheap Indian mic has the lines buried by about 12-15 thou. Ist so annoying I’m concerned I’ll miss measure something by .025” I thought about turning the end of the barrel down but it’s so tight I’m afraid I’ll break something duetting it off. I never thought about turning the thimble back a bit. Now I can turn it into a useable tool Thanks Mr P. ;)
Part of the joy of owning and using tools is modifying them until they work best for you. Someone who's tools are all in pristine condition is someone who never uses their tools.
For mics that you loan out to people, face off .0125. Drive 'em nuts trying to figure out whether they're measuring .250 or .275! I wasn't enthusiastic about this idea until I looked at my Starrett 1-2" a minute ago. Now I think uncovering the line is a great idea. It's a lot better idea than it was 25 years ago.
Does the little collet thread tightener thingamajig also serve to prevent the backlash or is it simply the case of having all the threads so finely machined that backlash isn't an issue?
+Mark Ganson removal of backlash is the primary purpose. snug enough to remove backlash substantially, but not restrict proper operation. wear in one part of the range can pretty much ruin the tool for general purpose use
I've been unable to set my micrometer to zero as it's too stiff to turn the scale barrel with the little spanner, seeing it's probably just a friction fit gives me confidence to try a little more force on it in the vice (with appropriate protection to try and prevent scratching it). Mine cost £12 approx $17 so not the bargain you got.
There is a name I forgot about. Fowler. Not a big fan of Fowler, but they are better than Chinesium tools. I hate to admit it, but I like Mitutoyo just fine, or SPI. Starrette is the old American made standard. The Japanese electric guitars rival American guitars in price, and usually exceed them in quality now. Is that the same Mauser that made the Mauser 1898 rifle? I need another 24" deep 2" micrometer. Those get sprung pretty easily. I think I'd use a small Arkansas stone rather than the file, but it's your shop! God bless you, Mr Pete!
I should be able to snuggly, slip standard back between the anvils on each one of my (6) 0-6" micrometers with respective standard? It seems like only my 0-1" mic is able to slip the standard. Thanks
I don't know if I would ever do that, but it was interesting all the same. Mind you I paid a lot more than $5 for my micrometers and it might explain my reluctance ;)
It's a matter of personal preference with regards to the relative location of the zero line... I just checked a couple of my micrometers, including my first one, made by Mitutoyo, and they are like the original condition on those Fowler's you modified... The edge of the thimble collar comes from the factory - on some manufacturers' offerings - set to split the little number 0 and the line. I'm fine with that, but if it bugs you, by all means modify your tools to suit your preferences. It's not like a $5 yard sale find is a collector's item after all... at least not in this case! ;^) Regards, Eric
No argument here, absolutely easier to read. I'm gonna get out my air tools and fix all of mine now ! (just kiddin') I recently bought a Fowler dial bore gauge and am gonna take it back. Browne and Sharpe or Starrett never disappoint me.
I bought a Tumico that I wasn't able to adjust the thimble for calibration, I ended up taking the thimble out and heated it with a hot air gun and that allowed the oil or grease that had hardened to release and I was able to adjust it after that. Just a hint for anyone that runs into that problem.
Perhaps you didn't need to modify the thimble. But anything you can do to help make your tools work for you instead of against you should be seen as a necessity. Especially in this day and age. Thanks for the video. I just bought a cheapo Amazon 0-6" set of vernier mics. I think I'm confident enough now to tune them up nice enough for the occasional work that I do that requires a modest amount of precision. Maybe one day I'll get gifted some nice Starrets. I just don't use them enough to warrant the cash spent on nice things. That, and I've developed a knack for getting cheap things to do what I need. Which in this case is basically an adjustable go/no-go gauge for deciding which parts go to the machine shop and which parts go to the scrap heap.
Good job. Sadly, on many B&S micrometers, the graduations are stamped very lightly on the thimble and barrel, making them difficult to read with nothing that can be done to correct the problem. Sold mine and bought a set of Mitutoyo's.
I've easily corrected issues like this with a little black paint brushed on then wiped off leaving the markings clearly visible. Saves a lot vs buying new.
I have an old Starrett mic that belonged to my grandfather. There is some rust or other corrosion on the flat of the anvil. Any suggestions on how to clean or re-surface without fouling it up? Btw, I don't have access to any machine tools. I'm just one of those hammer and chisel mechanics you loathe so much...
+Bob It matters more if you don't store them in a climate controlled location, but mostly it has to do with thermal expansion, which can push things out of alignment, and coupled with the lubrication getting gummy, can make it difficult to open them up when you go to use them. Also, if the mics don't have carbide faced anvils, you can scratch the anvil faces when you twist them apart, which can throw things off by a couple of tenths of a mil...
+Bob Also, any moisture that gets in will corrode the faces together. This can happen even when the tool is stored in non-condensing conditions. I have several mic's and calipers I use as demo's to show this to students.
+chemech I checked my trio set today, each one was out by .001. They were last calibrated during winter (indoors) and used outside today, in temperatures similar to what it was in when it was calibrated. I've found that average ambient temperature differences will affect the consistency of dial calipers as well. In a nutshell, they should be checked any time there is a major change of the temperature average, daily if the work is extremely critical. If the work requires you to have OCD ... well, I'm in Missouri, so you could be checking every hour, the way the weather goes here.
I hear you on that - left Missouri when I was a *little* kid, but I remember the weather swings - and get reminded about that by my cousins near St. Louis... Out here in SoCal, I just check my mics against their standards and adjust the zeroes at the beginning of a session when I need better than 0.001" out of them - which is pretty seldom...
Hi Pete no sure if you have been asked this before. but just recently bought a used vintage Moore & Wright 40,000 1mm micrometer and the very tip of the spindle is rusty. something that wasn't shown on the photos. is there a way to get a replacement spindle for my micrometer. other than that it's in great shape. your advice would be greatly appriciciated.
good job I got a mic I need to fix like that.the one's that wine aboult what u did ain't old enough to understand yet but they will in time if they live long enough
I recently found a Mitutoyo "Combimike" analog-digital micrometer at a pawn shop. It's in good shape, but it needs to be cleaned. I'd like to take it apart to clean and oil it, but I didn't know if it's safe to take it apart with the analog counter. Do you have any experience with taking apart analog counter micrometers? Thanks for any info.
Do some micrometers allow for movement (adjustment) of the anvil within the thimble? If it could be moved this same adjustment could be accomplished. Don't worry about complainers. All of human accomplishment depends on the alteration of the earth and it's contents to suit our individual choices. Those who value stock settings above usefulness are under some misguided illusion their gear will be desirable for museum display some day. It won't. Thanks for the great content!
One thing that I discovered is Starrett parts are not that terribly expensive. At least as far as their gauges are concerned they are very reasonable. I actually met research all the parts to a nice set of calipers and decide if I buy a cheap junk mishandled one and repair it
Nothing is senseless if it helps you get the job done correctly. I do many things like this just because I want to and it helps me and I could care less if others agree or not.
Nice work.
Nice video and repair , the older we get the more we can appreciate being able to see something clearly !
I'm not a machinist, but watching and listening to your old-school wisdom is relaxing and informative. I'm certain you were well-loved by your students, and bet you shaped many of their lives and careers. I can just tell...
Very informative mrpete. I see no problem whatsoever in making a tool work exactly how you need it to work.Thanks for sharing. regards from the UK
Mr. Pete- Thanks for all of your informative videos! I always learn something even though we are around the same age. Thanks again and please keep it up.
Mike Ryan
Well done Mr. Pete; thanks for sharing!
You know, I have never, not once, found any machine tools at a yard sale...
really wish we had yard sales and estate sales in our area like you seem to have in yours - you certain seem to come across a LOT more nice tools than I ever seem to be able to find...... i'm a little envious!
Mr. Pete, informative and relevant as always.
Lyle,
I always learn something watching your videos.
This is a great video. It shows the perfectionist attitude towards his work! Everyone should take pride and note this excellent description and instruction. An art that is being lost and needs to be embraced again! This is an excellent project that displays knowledge, skill, focus and finishing. This person intended to fix the micrometer where others would just "Throw it away". What if you didn't have that luxury? The overall goal is to make it better than it was, and after disassembly, cleaning, truing, reassembly and zeroing this micrometer will provide accurate measurements again. I also believe this type of instruction should be reintroduced again in high school, Boys Scouts, FFA, 4H and other organizations.
Thank you very much. Everything you said is very true
I really enjoy all your videos. Fowler tools was located in my hometown of Auburndale, Massachusetts and the founder, Fred Fowler offered me a job in 1962. The job has to repair precision tools and I am not sure why I did not accept the offer. Fortunately I landed a career with AT&T Longlines doing something similar. At the time Fred gave a digital caliper which I still have.
Great Fix, I have cursed my mikes for years (with no effect)as my vision goes and I have to use magnification. I have now applied your fix, and it's now a joy to play with them again. thank you again.
Thank you for watching
Hi Mr. Pete. Your skill and attention to detail are splendid! Wonderful video. Thanx
Your work ethic is perfectly demonstrated every-single time I watch anyone of your videos , and alot of great info.....Thank ya,Sir!!!
Thank you very much
Nice repair. Definitely easier to know for sure that you have reached that line when you can fully see it.
I like to see the 0 line as well , Great fix !
Hi Mr.Pete!
I bought a used Mitutoyo 0-1 mic that had this exact problem, only worse-- 12thou to be exact. Otherwise it was beautiful and by doing a TH-cam search I found your remedy for my problem. The nice thing is that one can fine tune a mic with this issue to suit their personal preference. I followed your suggestions and now have a usable instrument that I can read and suits my needs. Thanks! George in Pa
👍👍👍
I've got the same issue with my Mitutoyo - disappointed frankly. I just spent a TON of money on a 126-137 0 - 1" thread micrometer, a 126-139 2" - 3" thread micrometer, and a complete set of interchangeable anvils. Purchased good to excellent quality used, but still over $750. I could have purchased the high quality Chinese units with the vernier scale for around $220 for a set of three thread micrometers 0 - 1, 1 - 2, and 2 - 3; AND a complete set of anvils. Hope I "only cry once" with this purchase. Overall, Mitutoyo is my go-to brand so I'm probably going to be satisfied after this tune up. More importantly, Thanks Mr. Pete!
Once again, Mr. Pete to the rescue! I had this exact problem and didn’t ‘now how to fix it. Now I do. Live long and prosper Mr. Pete!
Thanks
Well, the information alone is well worth far much more than the $5 you spent on the micrometer! Man, I wish we could get stuff like that on our garage sales here down in Texas. Bunch of baby clothes and old toys is all you can hope for...
Great information and video! My young grandson bought a 5 ~ 6" mitutoyo micrometer at a flea market that was in a wood box. He told me that it turned to tight and took it apart, then he could not get it back together, correctly. I did not realize that there was a spanner wrench to zero it! Now I have the information to see if he has that wrench and the proper gauge blocks. I need the information also, on using the end adjustment and taking it apart. You, as always, have been a great help.
You did a great job on that. Also I asked you a question a few months ago about my south bend heavy 10 headstock bearings getting hot. You were right on. It was the take up nut being to tight. Thank you and best wishes friend.
👍👍
That's a neat trick. I have one that does that. What a pain.
Now I know how to fix it.
Thanks,
John
They're your tools so you can do what you want with them. :) Getting older now and the eyes aren't what they used to be so I highly agree with the adjustment. Thanks for the video.
So you circumcised a micrometer? Love it Mr Pete. I had teachers like you in HS. A bit cantankerous but so much knowledge to share.
That is a matter of personal preference and however you want it is the right way. Thanks for the video.
Lyle, just a note ; when I was working on the RR boring wheels to press on the axles we would adjust our inside mic's.oo9 off to machine in the right fit on the wheels. of course those mic's were dedicated to that job. So if that micrometerwas used in a factory they might have been set to make the fit for a shaft/ bearing. Thanks enjoyed!!
As I recall, the Lufkin micrometers had a collet that retained the spindle, so this kind of adjustment could be made without the machining operation you've shown.
The B&S "slant line" micrometers were developed to avoid the reading problem you've described, but I never liked them.
+MrShobar
Your right,most mics have adjustment in the thimble so you can "zero" them without having to machine them
Wonderfully informative! Thanks Mr Pete.
Great idea and thanks for the instructions, Greg ( a former meticulous arranger of artistic burnt clay products...bricklayer!)
What an artsy pun ;)
I have a Fowler myself, same issue, so this video is very much appreciated.
Personally when i store my mics i use custom made plastic tips (a little bit of heat forming on some thin plastic sheet) that i've lined with that awesome anti rust paper dipped in oil. Perfect for long term storage, never had a spot of rust on any of my mics.
Appreciate the tips on how to store a micrometer.
Art J. Good idea Mr. Pete. Most .025 errors in reading a micrometer are as a result of the zero line being slightly hidden by the end of the thimble. Another great tip! Thanks!
I always zero mine out to check and see where the thimble lines up. I do like your idea though. I just may tune up my mics one day.
Thanks for sharing!
All the best!
Mike
Outstanding video! I'm ""wrestling" with the same "zero line covered up" issue. This looks like an easy fix - thank you!
as usual learn something every video you are one of those teacher,s who should have been paid on merit i bet you have former student,s still thanking you
really enjoyed learning about a partial line vs a full. Thanks.
great job I also struggle with the lines on occasion
I agree with your closing statement - it was perfect before you messed with it, but it was interesting to see the inside.
I'm wondering if there isn't some way to adjust this - otherwise how do they make it so that the micrometer always reads zero on the front, there must be some way to adjust the spindle relative to the thimble.
Excellent idea! Wish I had thought of it before buying digital micrometers because I could not see the lines properly.
Hey Mr. Pete, Guess what, that's your Mic, and you can do what ever you want to do with it. And I wish I made some trips up in the Heartland to some of your great sales.
I love your videos alys look forward to watching them
I like the older Brown and Sharpe Slant Line mikes for ease of reading.
You get deeply engraved lines and numbers. The barrel and thimble are satin chrome. The lines and numbers are filled with black ink. When viewed against the satin chrome background there is a lot of visual contrast making the mike easy to read.
The Slant Lines are especially easy to read when using a depth mikes since the lines are numbered in reverse order.
More recent mikes of many brands have only lightly laser etched lines and numbers making them very hard to read. I collect high grad micrometers. Some times they are terrible to read compared to an ancient set of Reed, Scherr-Tumico or Tubular mike with the deeply engraved lines and numbers.
That's a rebranded NSK mic. I have NSK mics and I like them alot. They aren't collected like some brands so you can get them reasonably priced. SPI also rebranded NSK mics and I own an SPI mechanical digital mic that's made by NSK. I really like NSK instruments. Japanese quality. I have 2 NSK dial indicators, one I got that looks pristine, with a magnetic stand for 35 bucks. I also have an NSK height gauge I got NOS for 110 bucks. I could never get a Starrett NOS for that. It's vernier and has a movable magnifier which I've never seen on any other vernier gauge. Cheers Mr Pete!
Thank you for that analysis. I agree that they seem to be very high-quality. But I very seldom run across one
Great video Lyle. I need to do this to one of mine, it has always annoyed me that I would have to go past to verify I was on the correct line.
Thanks for being there at just the right time. Recently obtained Starrett 2" mic, and the lines on the barrel must be completely covered for the mic to be read, "I hate it when that happens". Could not imagine how to remedy the situation till stumbled across your Video. Thanks again. By the way your sign-off always reminds me of Paul Harvey's sign-off, Thats a good thing.
Thanks for watching
Job well done Mr. Pete great information .
I liked the video I didn't know of some of the adjustments that were were on it Thanks for the information.
This was a great help to me. I also have one that is giving me a fit now it works fine thanks again.
I liked the video and I agree with you on where the line is, my 1 inch mitutoyo mic does the same thing it splits the line I find this a problem when you try to read the 25 50 and 75 marks.
Fascinating. I knew nothing of any of this. Thanks.
Great idea! I have had an ancient Starrett, with never a problem reading, but lately other brands of micrometer I have are confusing me, and now the penny has dropped. THANKS.
I kept thinking, "Only take .002-.003 off of it" and It turns out that would have been enough, butI like your style... Nice video.
Mr Pete, I personally like to split the hair, and then if the zero doesn't line up, then I can tell something is amiss. But, I just want to say that I'm a wet behind the ears newbie. I don't have a lathe, but I'd like to get one. i really don't know much AT ALL about machining except what I learn from you. I do like your video, as it is good to learn how to machine this shape. Thanks
I've never worried much about where the edge of the thimble made the line, as long as the line is visible. I own mics that run from splitting the mark to full exposure,ad use at work mics that do both, as well. I check the zero each use,because I can't keep track. If I didn't have to use tools that were not in my control, I would probably do what you did for consistency.
This explains a Starrett No. 209 marked Autocar Co. that I picked up off of eBay. The front edge of the barrel is trimmed down such that the edge of the adjustment notch is open and the very bottom of the numbers are gone.
Looks like a Mitutoyo mic. Wonder if thats who was making them for Fowler at that time.
not having the line exposed would drive me nuts also , great fix
I've got a trio of Grizzly mic's (not their cheapest) that have proved to be quite consistent, but they also almost bury the line. Now I know what to look for. I hope all it takes is getting the barrel seated a little better in it's socket. If not, well, I now know what my other options are (after the warranty has expired, of course)...
I like that and the old eyes are not as good as they use to be and that is very helpful
when ever I have that problem the first thing going I do is make sure the barrel is fully seated. most times that fixes the problem. when you reassembled the barrel it was seated better than at first, that's why it went from .007 to .004.
+10 i have one that is so bad i have count the tick marks. i abhor using it. i think you are spot on mr pete
Thanks for the video. It helped me personally a lot thank you
Every time you say that to lose lautrec gag I think of my father. He could not say to lose without following it up with lautrec!
lol
another great video - and thank you for the detailed information!
I wonder if the friction spring is phosphor-bronze.
I've got a one inch Starret it doesn't have any corrosion like yours. I like the old tools better than the new stuff.
Awesome video! Do another myth breakers please!!
This is exactly what I needed to know. My cheap Indian mic has the lines buried by about 12-15 thou.
Ist so annoying I’m concerned I’ll miss measure something by .025”
I thought about turning the end of the barrel down but it’s so tight I’m afraid I’ll break something duetting it off.
I never thought about turning the thimble back a bit. Now I can turn it into a useable tool
Thanks Mr P. ;)
Part of the joy of owning and using tools is modifying them until they work best for you. Someone who's tools are all in pristine condition is someone who never uses their tools.
For mics that you loan out to people, face off .0125. Drive 'em nuts trying to figure out whether they're measuring .250 or .275!
I wasn't enthusiastic about this idea until I looked at my Starrett 1-2" a minute ago. Now I think uncovering the line is a great idea. It's a lot better idea than it was 25 years ago.
Does the little collet thread tightener thingamajig also serve to prevent the backlash or is it simply the case of having all the threads so finely machined that backlash isn't an issue?
+Mark Ganson removal of backlash is the primary purpose. snug enough to remove backlash substantially, but not restrict proper operation. wear in one part of the range can pretty much ruin the tool for general purpose use
as usual, great information. thank you.
Way to go Mark Polley, now I don't have to say it. Great Video as always mrpete!
I've been unable to set my micrometer to zero as it's too stiff to turn the scale barrel with the little spanner, seeing it's probably just a friction fit gives me confidence to try a little more force on it in the vice (with appropriate protection to try and prevent scratching it). Mine cost £12 approx $17 so not the bargain you got.
Halo It was very interesting this video. I have a question. What about backlash of the pitch?
There is a name I forgot about. Fowler. Not a big fan of Fowler, but they are better than Chinesium tools. I hate to admit it, but I like Mitutoyo just fine, or SPI. Starrette is the old American made standard. The Japanese electric guitars rival American guitars in price, and usually exceed them in quality now. Is that the same Mauser that made the Mauser 1898 rifle? I need another 24" deep 2" micrometer. Those get sprung pretty easily. I think I'd use a small Arkansas stone rather than the file, but it's your shop! God bless you, Mr Pete!
Good show! Very informative and transparent..... I suppose this ILK of micrometer is now disdained in favour of those with digital readouts....?
I kind of like to see that line also. Good video Mr. Pete.
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I should be able to snuggly, slip standard back between the anvils
on each one of my (6) 0-6" micrometers with respective standard?
It seems like only my 0-1" mic is able to slip the standard.
Thanks
I don't know if I would ever do that, but it was interesting all the same. Mind you I paid a lot more than $5 for my micrometers and it might explain my reluctance ;)
It's a matter of personal preference with regards to the relative location of the zero line... I just checked a couple of my micrometers, including my first one, made by Mitutoyo, and they are like the original condition on those Fowler's you modified...
The edge of the thimble collar comes from the factory - on some manufacturers' offerings - set to split the little number 0 and the line. I'm fine with that, but if it bugs you, by all means modify your tools to suit your preferences. It's not like a $5 yard sale find is a collector's item after all... at least not in this case! ;^)
Regards,
Eric
No argument here, absolutely easier to read. I'm gonna get out my air tools and fix all of mine now ! (just kiddin') I recently bought a Fowler dial bore gauge and am gonna take it back. Browne and Sharpe or Starrett never disappoint me.
Thanks yes
I bought a Tumico that I wasn't able to adjust the thimble for calibration, I ended up taking the thimble out and heated it with a hot air gun and that allowed the oil or grease that had hardened to release and I was able to adjust it after that. Just a hint for anyone that runs into that problem.
Thanks
On a Measumax micrometer this is adjustable once you separate the thimble from the spindle taper.
Perhaps you didn't need to modify the thimble. But anything you can do to help make your tools work for you instead of against you should be seen as a necessity. Especially in this day and age.
Thanks for the video. I just bought a cheapo Amazon 0-6" set of vernier mics. I think I'm confident enough now to tune them up nice enough for the occasional work that I do that requires a modest amount of precision. Maybe one day I'll get gifted some nice Starrets. I just don't use them enough to warrant the cash spent on nice things. That, and I've developed a knack for getting cheap things to do what I need. Which in this case is basically an adjustable go/no-go gauge for deciding which parts go to the machine shop and which parts go to the scrap heap.
My opinion is that this it the height of detail and why a good portion of the people watch your productions.
Thanks for watching.
Enjoyed the video, I have an Spi 0-1" I bought several years ago. It's froze up, anvils are not touching, just won't turn. No surface rust. Help.
soak it in oil overnight and just turn.
@@rushzim It's been kroiled for 2 weeks, don't know what's holding it?
Mr Pete that is a spline micrometer used for measuring spline roots on shafts
Thanks
Good job.
Sadly, on many B&S micrometers, the graduations are stamped very lightly on the thimble and barrel, making them difficult to read with nothing that can be done to correct the problem. Sold mine and bought a set of Mitutoyo's.
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I've easily corrected issues like this with a little black paint brushed on then wiped off leaving the markings clearly visible. Saves a lot vs buying new.
M Williams I wonder if Dyekem will also work? I have this problem.
I have an old Starrett mic that belonged to my grandfather. There is some rust or other corrosion on the flat of the anvil. Any suggestions on how to clean or re-surface without fouling it up? Btw, I don't have access to any machine tools. I'm just one of those hammer and chisel mechanics you loathe so much...
I noticed you said that you shouldn't store a micrometer with the anvils touching, what is the methodology behind that?
+Bob It matters more if you don't store them in a climate controlled location, but mostly it has to do with thermal expansion, which can push things out of alignment, and coupled with the lubrication getting gummy, can make it difficult to open them up when you go to use them.
Also, if the mics don't have carbide faced anvils, you can scratch the anvil faces when you twist them apart, which can throw things off by a couple of tenths of a mil...
+Bob Also, any moisture that gets in will corrode the faces together. This can happen even when the tool is stored in non-condensing conditions. I have several mic's and calipers I use as demo's to show this to students.
Makes sense, thanks guys, I like the thermal expansion idea, I learned something new today
+chemech I checked my trio set today, each one was out by .001. They were last calibrated during winter (indoors) and used outside today, in temperatures similar to what it was in when it was calibrated. I've found that average ambient temperature differences will affect the consistency of dial calipers as well. In a nutshell, they should be checked any time there is a major change of the temperature average, daily if the work is extremely critical. If the work requires you to have OCD ... well, I'm in Missouri, so you could be checking every hour, the way the weather goes here.
I hear you on that - left Missouri when I was a *little* kid, but I remember the weather swings - and get reminded about that by my cousins near St. Louis...
Out here in SoCal, I just check my mics against their standards and adjust the zeroes at the beginning of a session when I need better than 0.001" out of them - which is pretty seldom...
Toulouse Lautrec?
How many micrometers does one need, wow!?
Hi Pete no sure if you have been asked this before. but just recently bought a used vintage Moore & Wright 40,000 1mm micrometer and the very tip of the spindle is rusty. something that wasn't shown on the photos. is there a way to get a replacement spindle for my micrometer. other than that it's in great shape. your advice would be greatly appriciciated.
You will never find a relpacement. Clean with fine emery paper
What would you use this gage for
precision measurements of parts
Thank You, Mr Pete!
good job I got a mic I need to fix like that.the one's that wine aboult what u did ain't old enough to understand yet but they will in time if they live long enough
I recently found a Mitutoyo "Combimike" analog-digital micrometer at a pawn shop. It's in good shape, but it needs to be cleaned. I'd like to take it apart to clean and oil it, but I didn't know if it's safe to take it apart with the analog counter. Do you have any experience with taking apart analog counter micrometers? Thanks for any info.
Do some micrometers allow for movement (adjustment) of the anvil within the thimble? If it could be moved this same adjustment could be accomplished. Don't worry about complainers. All of human accomplishment depends on the alteration of the earth and it's contents to suit our individual choices. Those who value stock settings above usefulness are under some misguided illusion their gear will be desirable for museum display some day. It won't. Thanks for the great content!
Great! I have one to repair. Thanks
Great idea I think I will do this to some of my micrometers
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One thing that I discovered is Starrett parts are not that terribly expensive. At least as far as their gauges are concerned they are very reasonable. I actually met research all the parts to a nice set of calipers and decide if I buy a cheap junk mishandled one and repair it
I guess it surprises me that the repair parts are reasonably priced
Sorry for the terrible grammar and punctuation. I am forced to use voice recognition, and it's pretty unpredictable to say the least..