From being an ASE Certified and experienced auto mechanic there is a couple tips id like to share with you. 1. When reinstalling a CV shaft, a little bit of grease or diff oil, and making sure the retaining clip opening faces the BOTTOM helps tremendously, as itll make the clip "Hug" the shaft and less to hang up on when reinserting (When you shot this video you had the gap pointing UP, which made the clip hang, so the whole thing was catching on the inside of the diff and is what made your install kind of tricky) and I always make sure the spline shaft is engaged in the diff then pull it out right until it wants to fall out and slam it in, usually it pops in with one try. 2 Pickle forks arent always needed for ball joints. like the upper A arm in the video, if you push down some force on the hub and then just strike the side of the A arm directly perpendicular to the A arm, right where the ball joint is located, the shock of a hammer will usually break it loose. NEVER hammer on the top of the ball joint, or on the length side of the A Arm/ tie rod end .etc, it will most likely ruin it. BUT Pickle forks are a necessity if you do this often. Little tricks mechanics learn, especially when paid by the job and not the hour! Good video, very informative and gave me an idea of what i will face when i replace mine!
Excellent, clear presentatation!!! thankyou When you change the right axle shaft, do you change the left side too?? right one broke inside the boot like in your video.. I have a Kawasaki Brute Force 650 4x4?
Thanks for the video. Having an issue with my 650i where steering will randomly jerk and almost bind up. Really hoping it's an issue with front cv joing (one boot has a bit of grease on it and will occasionally pop when turning steering and/or wheel). First step I'm replacing both front axles and if that doesn't do it, I'm afraid it's likely going to be a diff rebuild (already changed brakes). Any similar experience to what I've referenced, Mark Jenkins?
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OTC 4559 Manual/Pneumatic Pickle Fork Set on Amazon - amzn.to/35KA9TP
Ingersoll Rand Air Hammer 114GQC on Amazon - amzn.to/2VVBJ0H
From being an ASE Certified and experienced auto mechanic there is a couple tips id like to share with you.
1. When reinstalling a CV shaft, a little bit of grease or diff oil, and making sure the retaining clip opening faces the BOTTOM helps tremendously, as itll make the clip "Hug" the shaft and less to hang up on when reinserting (When you shot this video you had the gap pointing UP, which made the clip hang, so the whole thing was catching on the inside of the diff and is what made your install kind of tricky) and I always make sure the spline shaft is engaged in the diff then pull it out right until it wants to fall out and slam it in, usually it pops in with one try.
2 Pickle forks arent always needed for ball joints. like the upper A arm in the video, if you push down some force on the hub and then just strike the side of the A arm directly perpendicular to the A arm, right where the ball joint is located, the shock of a hammer will usually break it loose. NEVER hammer on the top of the ball joint, or on the length side of the A Arm/ tie rod end .etc, it will most likely ruin it. BUT Pickle forks are a necessity if you do this often.
Little tricks mechanics learn, especially when paid by the job and not the hour!
Good video, very informative and gave me an idea of what i will face when i replace mine!
This is a very well done video. Thank you for being so thorough for those of us that are not mechanics 😎
Awesome job!
Best how to video I've seen. Straight to the point, comprehensive. This guy is great.
Very well done vid. Very informative. Wish someone would do a vid on rear "wet brake" replacement. No vids to be found on that DIY.....
This video really helped!
I didn't know that I can pull axle holding the other end. Now the axle is removed.
Excellent video! Thanks
Excellent, clear presentatation!!! thankyou When you change the right axle shaft, do you change the left side too?? right one broke inside the boot like in your video.. I have a Kawasaki Brute Force 650 4x4?
very good video. pretty surprised you don't have an atv hoist tho given how much of your own work you do. thanks for the great video
thanks I'm fixing to change it along with the suspension and tie rods....thank you for the VERY helpful video
I hear you on that...mine hit a ditch this past weekend and snapped almost everything on my front left side
Thanks for the video. Having an issue with my 650i where steering will randomly jerk and almost bind up. Really hoping it's an issue with front cv joing (one boot has a bit of grease on it and will occasionally pop when turning steering and/or wheel). First step I'm replacing both front axles and if that doesn't do it, I'm afraid it's likely going to be a diff rebuild (already changed brakes).
Any similar experience to what I've referenced, Mark Jenkins?
April 30,2023, 3pm. Is there an inner seal that should also be replaced after pulling the larger seal? I have a 2002 prairie 650
Awesome video thanks for the help man
The rubber is broken on my front cv axle but not making any noise. Should I replace it
Can't u use the park break to take axle nut on and off?
Tx for the info
doing same thing on brute force 650i. what are all the parts needed for the install?
Hello. I just broke the front left axle on my 05 praire 700. Wouldnt this be fairly similar?
Same process for Kawasaki prairie 360 2006 ?
Just tap it in, just tap it in, a little tippy, a little Tap tap tapparuuu.
I would just hold the front brake to stop the hub from spinning,
How can I break the axle nut loose? I've tried two impacts, heat, and a cheater pipe. It won't budge! I'm stuck.
Id like links to you're pickle fork air hammer kit and the seal puller please.
@@nogripes ty sir
Are all cv joints the same 650,700 ?
i’ve tried and tried my disc/hub won’t go back on
My 650 brute force only has a lower control arm
whats is the part number on the seal?