I built my stand for the same anvil from some pressure treated 6x12 I had laying around, using some LONG 3/8" lag bolts (would have been just days before you posted this video). I broke a couple of the bolts when first assembling, and I think they've broken again now that I've been using the setup (seeing some gap forming). I'll point out one thing that might be handy though. Once you have your drill marks measured out, put everything together with ratchet straps. This gives you the opportunity to turn it on end and make sure that you have the right anvil height. Then start drilling, inserting the rod, etc. It'll make all your holes match up and give you a good idea of how it's all going together. I, because of the original snapped lag bolts, used the anvil for awhile before re-drilling and drilling in replacement bolts. I like, in hindsight, going with all-thread. I thought my lag bolts would have worked fine. But, I'm seeing some separation. Maybe I'll take some measurements, do some work, measure again, and see if I can't get my impact driver to make it tighten up. Who knows... I like your adhesive addition, I'll have to do that with the rebuild. And, you need a new shirt, "You're a black smith, if it doesn't go in at first, then hit it harder."
Thanks for the Tutorial. I always wanted a black smith shop and wondered how smiths attached their anvil. I did not know why the chains where around the anvil til I watched part 2 which I watched first. You did a great job. Thank You.
Pro Tip- If you had started drilling your holes with a spade bit larger than the washers you used, and drilled 3/4-1" deep before switching to the bit the size of the all-thread rod, then the ends of the rod/washers/nuts would be recessed/countersunk and not pose a snag danger. Note- the pilot for the larger spade would create a center for the smaller spade so that there would be no misalignment
Great video. Using Liquid Nails is a fantastic idea. If and when I build one ( my anvil is now sitting on the garage floor), I would use a thread locker when installing the nuts because the all thread available at hardware and box stores is grade 2. It can stretch and this will avoid having the nuts become loose. Blue thread locker allows the nuts to be removed without damage to the threads. Red might be overkill. Heat is recommended to melt the material and without heat (torch), it could damage the treads or worse. I am not a blacksmith so, take it for what you feel it's worth.
I LOL'ed when you said about a Professional Carpenter. Made me think about a particular story I heard that you can appreciate about a novice carpenter named Noah that built a big boat that was awesome and another who was a professional that built another boat named the Titanic. I like being a novice carpenter myself.~
Love the TruValue bag. I used to be a partner in one of those stores and learned so much selling hardware. It is a tragedy that the big box stores have decimated so many small businesses. The ready access to so many items, and the service those stores offered is greatly missed.
My friends owned a hardware store in Manhattan (NYC). One of the guys and his partner actually bought it from his father when he retired. They also became a TruValue member. Much later on, Best Buy opened a store about 8 blocks away. They were worried. At first, their business dropped a fair amount. But after about six months, the business came back. It turned out that all those things they sold that BB didn’t, and the talking and advice, certainly made a difference. But interestingly, the guys at BB would send customers there when they didn’t carry something, and so they sent people to BB when they didn’t carry something. That worked until a few years ago when they sold the business and retired.
Thanks Roy. Great looking stand for the little anvil. I am very new to blacksmithing so I followed your recommendation and picked up one of these anvils off of eBay. Now I off to build the stand.
I watched all the way because I have this anvil on the way and plan to build this stand, thank you for this series! Its going to help me grow as a complete beginner!
Love the video Roy. I've been cutting things for years and to be honest I've never thought about accounting for blade width. Thank you for this video!!!
Great video Roy. I don't know why I'm watching other than your subject matter is compelling. Maybe I'll take up blacksmithing, also makes me want to order the 66 pounder just for kicks.
Just made this stand. Looks like it will work well. Now to assemble the Amazon forge. Seems like a low cost way to see if I want to pursue this as a hobby
Got my supplies - went to cut the board this past weekend, and my skill saw is dead! Finally cut it today with a jigsaw for the first cut, then it was light enough (lol!) to transfer to the miter saw which made far superior cuts. Drilling it out and cutting my 10 foot threaded bar down tomorrow and hopefully finishing on Saturday!
A wonderful video - I just made an anvil base (I don't think I can call it a stand as it doesn't stand directly on the floor) following your video. I think it's a wonderful video and thank you for the the idea and build guide... :)
Every time I watch one of your videos it looks freezing cold. If I lived where you lived, I think I'd be a full-time blacksmith too so I could be next to a fire all day. Haha.
Nice job. I’m making one of these too. A little easier way would be cut the 6x6’s to 24”, take 2 of them, glue up, use timberlok bolts to screw together. They screw right through without having to drill holes and use bolts. Do the same to the other 2, then screw and glue those 2 together.... all done. Maybe torch it and stain if ya want. All done!
This is interesting I'd have thought ud have left some of the knots in the wood visible but that's still pretty awesome though I like it a lot cheers for another wonderful video Roy yet again sir well played
Good video, my anvil stump is disintegrating and I've been looking for ideas on how to replace it. This is a great idea, not sure it's heavy enough but I have more ideas now.
I'll be making a stand similar to this for the 88 pounder I just got a couple weeks back. If I manage to wear it out in my hobbyist capacity, I'll stack up pennies for a "big boy" anvil when the time comes haha! Thanks for helping us beginners out, Roy! Side note, anyone have advice for dressing poor casting on the 1" hardy? It's jagged and curved on two of the four sides.
Glad you enjoyed the video and glad to have you as apart of the blacksmith community 🙂 I recommend a carbide bur to clean up Hardy holes they come in many sizes and lengths...
What is your thought on making the wood a bit bigger and cutting out an inset for the anvil to help keep the anvil from twisting as it’s used? Especially if it is to be “mobile”?
I'd be a leery about burning pressure treated posts in an enclosed area.....especially green ones. The burning process can release the copper arsenic or whatever is being used to treat the wood against bugs and rot.
I think it took less time to drive to the lumber yard, get the materials, drive back home, make the stand, than it did to watch the video... 35 minutes for cut 4 pieces of 6x6 the same length, then bolt them together.
i made mine somewhat the same i just used some scrap steel with two holes drilled on either side and put framing nails through each of the holes, with one hole being on one block and the other being on the other block
It's doing great! Although to be fair, it isn't my main forging anvil. But I am definitely keeping it around, because having those size horns comes in really handy.
Thanks!! I need this for the anvil I’m gonna win in your next giveaway ☺️ I’ve been out of work since March, due to my industry being shut down for ‘rona. I’m hoping things will pick up again soon, but in the mean time I’d love to start learning to forge things 😁I was trying to figure out where I’m gonna find a big enough stump in AZ, but this solves everything easily.
I appreciate the info. Potentially this is useful for other tyoes of supports, as well. I wonder if another row of allthread through the center of the one side (where you have the space) would be useful. Also, a hand planer would make a very flat surface much simpler to attain
Great video Roy! I have a larger Peter Wright anvil (around 180 lbs) that I want to mount on a larger stand than the one in you video since I also am going to be using a Hardy Hammer I built from your plans. My question(s) is/are do you think that 3/8 inch all thread rod is sufficient or should I go to half inch for the bigger size lumber? And, I am thinking of using nine 8"X 8" posts or twelve 6" X 6 " posts cut to the proper height so that the stand has more mass and surface area so that when the Hardy Hammer is being used, the stand will not wiggle or walk across the shop floor. What do you think? Any suggestions would be appreciated Thanks again for posting this very useful video! I am definitely looking forward to the next 2 videos in this series.
Err, what size was the threaded rod you used? 😋 Seriously though, I need metric!!!! LOL Sorry Roy, we watch for your metal working skills amd that you're funny. I don't mind the dodgy woodwork, even though it looked amazing at the end. Best quote "if it isn't working, hit it harder"! I like "if it still doesn't work, find a bigger hammer"! as an add-on to your quote. Back to blacksmithing, I recently saw a blacksmith with the same problem of needing a longer drill bit..... that needed to be about 4ft long!!! He just nocked up a spade/paddle bit in the forge! You could give that a go at some point soon...... probably not a 4ft one though LOL I hope you back feels better soon 👍
@@scotthummel4248 thanks Scott, I was actually just messing about with Roy as he had been on a little Roy Rant about not asking what size rod he used. Thank for the reply though, I love the community on here who help out with answering questions and pointing people to helpful videos 👍
something like your project there, I have a hint, if you don't want your nuts and washers exposed, counter sink the holes as deep as the stack of nut and washers. the easy way i found, is to start your hole with a larger bit the size of the washer. then finish your hole with the smaller bit. you will find that the large bit will leave A center hole for the smaller bit. ya its just a Looky-Looky thing. I hope it helps. you are doing awesome!
Hey Roy what kinda of propane did you use lol just got all my material ⅝ threaded rod was on sale so hope that is OK but I've been waiting for a year to do this
My wife is pregnant, and I put a weed burner on the Amazon registry. For SOME REASON she doesn't think it's necessary? I think your video demonstrates exactly why it should be there. Honest question though. Can you hit those bolts on the end to flatten them out to help prevent the nuts from loosening over time, or are those going to be too hard to do that with? I've not yet begun blacksmithing so please excuse my ignorance.
So this is the video you darkened the block. I wondered if you burned it. Looks nice like that. Still don’t know which video where the blue anvil turned black but I’ll blame Sony’s app in PS4 because things sort...different. Personally I’m not sure how I feel about the blue.
is it better to mount directly on the wood? I have a ~125lb steel plate, would it be beneficial at all to set the plate on the wood stand and then the anvil on top of the plate?
If you can surface grind the top of the plate and the bottom of the anvil as well as welding the anvil to the plate before lag bolting the plate straight down into the stand the result would probably be nearly ideal.
Old wood isn’t usually charred. But many times it was coated with tar, or glued together with tar, the way the outside wood was on real Tudor houses. It’s interesting how people seem to think that people used to live with “antique” brass, and dirty, charred wood. They didn’t. That’s just on old stuff that was sitting for decades and not polished or cleaned. Back then people would have been horrified at such things. The tarring might have people thinking it was charred, as it’s also black.
Get a piece of wood thats 2 to 3 inches thick like a 2x4 and drill a series of holes ever inch down the length of the wood with a drill press with different diameter bits and engrave or write next to said holes the respective size. What this does is allows you to line up a hole thats perfectly straight on at 90 degrees, drill an inch or two into the new material to create a pilot hole and finish up the hole to whatever depth you need it to be without the guide and it will be dead on 90 degrees everytime. You could probably make one out of one inch aluminium stock or square tubing too, throw it in your tool box and it will save you more time than you realise
I found a cheap steel 88lb anvil for $113 I’ll probably mount mine to a log or I may by some 6X6’s and make a support I’m not sure but I’m gonna use construction adhesive not silicone caulk I’ve heard it works better get some cheap hammers turn them into decent ones with a grinder till I can forge my own hammers I can’t afford a $200 hammer but I can make one
Hot dogs I think I'm 69 like lol..! Has anybody ever told you ... 💥🔨 ok ok only kidding. Man what an arm. Lol Yours was way easier than mine. But you used the same design principle ad I did. Yours turned out really nice. Still piddeling w mine. But at the moment they are in same state glued n bolted n serviceable. I only had 4x4s. So it's 49 4x4 , 28 through bolts. 70 lbs coal slag n sand n oil hidden in the 4 corners. Bout 340 LBS I reckon. I like yours charred. I don't want to charr mine. Danish oil finish I reckon. Adding 4 in 1/8 straps top n bottom to cover the bolt holes. Only have the 250 lbs anvil now but still working on the big girl so I just made it for her. Can't wait to see your mounts video!! It's gonna be great I'm sure. 🙏 God bless yall now Crawford out ⚒️🧙♂️
Hi Roy. I'm a professional carpenter and I kind of suck at blacksmithing. Pay no attention to the haters out there. Thanks for posting.
Made this today, finished it in about an hour and a half.. no hiccups at all. Thanks for the excellent content.
Give this guy a medal! It's snowing in his shop and he's still bringing us videos. Thank you for all you do Roy.
Roy love you're positive attitude. I consider myself a jack of all trades and master of none. It ain't pretty but does the job. Keep kicking it boss.
I built my stand for the same anvil from some pressure treated 6x12 I had laying around, using some LONG 3/8" lag bolts (would have been just days before you posted this video). I broke a couple of the bolts when first assembling, and I think they've broken again now that I've been using the setup (seeing some gap forming).
I'll point out one thing that might be handy though. Once you have your drill marks measured out, put everything together with ratchet straps. This gives you the opportunity to turn it on end and make sure that you have the right anvil height. Then start drilling, inserting the rod, etc. It'll make all your holes match up and give you a good idea of how it's all going together. I, because of the original snapped lag bolts, used the anvil for awhile before re-drilling and drilling in replacement bolts.
I like, in hindsight, going with all-thread. I thought my lag bolts would have worked fine. But, I'm seeing some separation. Maybe I'll take some measurements, do some work, measure again, and see if I can't get my impact driver to make it tighten up. Who knows...
I like your adhesive addition, I'll have to do that with the rebuild.
And, you need a new shirt, "You're a black smith, if it doesn't go in at first, then hit it harder."
Thanks for the Tutorial. I always wanted a black smith shop and wondered how smiths attached their anvil. I did not know why the chains where around the anvil til I watched part 2 which I watched first. You did a great job. Thank You.
I guess that makes me a diehard fan. I watched all the way!
Dude that’s a pretty smooth cut for that kind of saw......I’d have been all over the place. All the way to Kentucky. Nice job
I got me the base of a big red cedar tree that was cut down 2 years ago up here in Washington that I was going to turn into a stand👍👍👍✌ cool video Roy
Pro Tip- If you had started drilling your holes with a spade bit larger than the washers you used, and drilled 3/4-1" deep before switching to the bit the size of the all-thread rod, then the ends of the rod/washers/nuts would be recessed/countersunk and not pose a snag danger. Note- the pilot for the larger spade would create a center for the smaller spade so that there would be no misalignment
Great video. Using Liquid Nails is a fantastic idea. If and when I build one ( my anvil is now sitting on the garage floor), I would use a thread locker when installing the nuts because the all thread available at hardware and box stores is grade 2. It can stretch and this will avoid having the nuts become loose. Blue thread locker allows the nuts to be removed without damage to the threads. Red might be overkill. Heat is recommended to melt the material and without heat (torch), it could damage the treads or worse. I am not a blacksmith so, take it for what you feel it's worth.
I LOL'ed when you said about a Professional Carpenter. Made me think about a particular story I heard that you can appreciate about a novice carpenter named Noah that built a big boat that was awesome and another who was a professional that built another boat named the Titanic. I like being a novice carpenter myself.~
Love the TruValue bag. I used to be a partner in one of those stores and learned so much selling hardware. It is a tragedy that the big box stores have decimated so many small businesses. The ready access to so many items, and the service those stores offered is greatly missed.
My friends owned a hardware store in Manhattan (NYC). One of the guys and his partner actually bought it from his father when he retired. They also became a TruValue member. Much later on, Best Buy opened a store about 8 blocks away. They were worried. At first, their business dropped a fair amount. But after about six months, the business came back. It turned out that all those things they sold that BB didn’t, and the talking and advice, certainly made a difference. But interestingly, the guys at BB would send customers there when they didn’t carry something, and so they sent people to BB when they didn’t carry something. That worked until a few years ago when they sold the business and retired.
Thank you so much for the video. Got to do this as a project with my father-in-law. Had some laughs and a fun weekend making it
Hit it harder will always fix it! Thanks for sharing Roy! God Bless you guys!
Helpful video, thanks. I'm going to give it a try using 4x4's from a big pallet for mine.
I watch the whole thing. Great video. When I'm ready. I'm making my stand like this. Thank you.
Thanks Roy. Great looking stand for the little anvil. I am very new to blacksmithing so I followed your recommendation and picked up one of these anvils off of eBay. Now I off to build the stand.
Fantastic!
Thank you I built one . at first I didn't know what design I was going to go with then I saw this video.
I watched all the way because I have this anvil on the way and plan to build this stand, thank you for this series! Its going to help me grow as a complete beginner!
Just made my stand today. Thanks for the help. She looks great!
I'm glad The video helped 😊
Love the video Roy. I've been cutting things for years and to be honest I've never thought about accounting for blade width. Thank you for this video!!!
This video is really helpful and the others too about the 66 pound anvil great work man
Thank you for showing us how to make the stand!!!
Perfect. Just what I needed to see. I'm doing the same thing but puting it through the ground 3 ft and puting quikrete in.
Watched the whole video 👍 good job Sir 👏
Great video Roy. I don't know why I'm watching other than your subject matter is compelling. Maybe I'll take up blacksmithing, also makes me want to order the 66 pounder just for kicks.
You should give it a go 🙂 lots of fun to be had... Thank you for watching
Just made this stand. Looks like it will work well.
Now to assemble the Amazon forge.
Seems like a low cost way to see if I want to pursue this as a hobby
Great video! I'm building this tomorrow for my anvil that arrives next week! Might put some thread lock on those nuts as well.
Got my supplies - went to cut the board this past weekend, and my skill saw is dead! Finally cut it today with a jigsaw for the first cut, then it was light enough (lol!) to transfer to the miter saw which made far superior cuts.
Drilling it out and cutting my 10 foot threaded bar down tomorrow and hopefully finishing on Saturday!
Finished it! Waiting for the glue to dry now. I'd share a photo, but I don't see how to do that.
Cool video and yes I watched it all the way through lol I am going to watch the next one as well.
A wonderful video - I just made an anvil base (I don't think I can call it a stand as it doesn't stand directly on the floor) following your video.
I think it's a wonderful video and thank you for the the idea and build guide... :)
Great video. I just mounted mine yesterday. I liking your stand allot. I might be building a new stand before to long. Thanks for sharing.
Every time I watch one of your videos it looks freezing cold. If I lived where you lived, I think I'd be a full-time blacksmith too so I could be next to a fire all day. Haha.
Lovely work. This I will make my self. Easy and not to long to make
Blacksmith frome sweden 😁
For deeper holes with spade bits, you can pick up a bit extension at any big box store. Just couple the extension to your drill bit!!
Nice idea, I need one now....
thanks that stand looks like it would be great for my grinding wheel..
Nice job. I’m making one of these too. A little easier way would be cut the 6x6’s to 24”, take 2 of them, glue up, use timberlok bolts to screw together. They screw right through without having to drill holes and use bolts. Do the same to the other 2, then screw and glue those 2 together.... all done. Maybe torch it and stain if ya want. All done!
Nice job! Thank you!
Good to know a good way to build me one Now if i can get me an anvil Thanks buddy
This is interesting I'd have thought ud have left some of the knots in the wood visible but that's still pretty awesome though I like it a lot cheers for another wonderful video Roy yet again sir well played
Good video, my anvil stump is disintegrating and I've been looking for ideas on how to replace it. This is a great idea, not sure it's heavy enough but I have more ideas now.
Good video thanks
I would have attached the anvil before doing the char, but i would have left it raw and had it get worn with use. But that personal preference.
Lesson taken!
I'll be making a stand similar to this for the 88 pounder I just got a couple weeks back. If I manage to wear it out in my hobbyist capacity, I'll stack up pennies for a "big boy" anvil when the time comes haha! Thanks for helping us beginners out, Roy!
Side note, anyone have advice for dressing poor casting on the 1" hardy? It's jagged and curved on two of the four sides.
Glad you enjoyed the video and glad to have you as apart of the blacksmith community 🙂
I recommend a carbide bur to clean up Hardy holes they come in many sizes and lengths...
@@ChristCenteredIronworks I'll check it out, much love from the PNW!
I always love your videos. Thanks
Great video Brother!
What is your thought on making the wood a bit bigger and cutting out an inset for the anvil to help keep the anvil from twisting as it’s used? Especially if it is to be “mobile”?
I'd be a leery about burning pressure treated posts in an enclosed area.....especially green ones. The burning process can release the copper arsenic or whatever is being used to treat the wood against bugs and rot.
It’s snowing in there, so I don’t believe ventilation isn’t an issue! Good warning for unknowing viewers though!
I think it took less time to drive to the lumber yard, get the materials, drive back home, make the stand, than it did to watch the video... 35 minutes for cut 4 pieces of 6x6 the same length, then bolt them together.
Thanks for this!
i made mine somewhat the same i just used some scrap steel with two holes drilled on either side and put framing nails through each of the holes, with one hole being on one block and the other being on the other block
Nice video!
Hey, how’s that anvil holding up? I’m gonna buy one
It's doing great! Although to be fair, it isn't my main forging anvil. But I am definitely keeping it around, because having those size horns comes in really handy.
You could also use a bit extension and stack the lumber then drill it so you wouldn't have to worry the hole out at all!
Wonder if I could attach wheels to one side so that I could tip it back to roll out of the way? 🤔
Nice stand Roy👌, I'm wanting to do something similar to mine and get it off the ground
Hey roy watched the whole video but was wondering is there a problem mounting a anvil to a solid piece of oak log cut to the right height.
Yes in fact that's the best option for a blacksmith stump 🙂 this option is for those who don't have 🪵 at their disposal
Isn't this going to be too low down for comfortable use? Or is it meant to be put up on something else?
He comes out the next day and the anvil is sitting in a pile of ash with the screws! LOL! 😂😂😂
I have a Craftsman drill that actually has a level bubble on the back so the holes will be straighter up and down. I would have loaned it to you! LOL!
What are your thoughts on making a similar stand but 2-3 feet are buried in the ground?
"No rest for the wicked."
I said that to my dad one time, and his rejoinder was, "and the righteous don't need any."
Ouch. Never said that again.
You need a chopsaw or a Skil saw in the width of the blade is called the curve
Hi. Will that weed burner produce enough heat to run a forge?
Thanks!! I need this for the anvil I’m gonna win in your next giveaway ☺️
I’ve been out of work since March, due to my industry being shut down for ‘rona. I’m hoping things will pick up again soon, but in the mean time I’d love to start learning to forge things 😁I was trying to figure out where I’m gonna find a big enough stump in AZ, but this solves everything easily.
True die hard fans never die haha
How long did you let the wood adhesive set up before you started burning the outer surface, or does it not matter?
What is your thought about pre-countersinking all the holes so the threaded bolts don’t stick out of the wood to get caught on?
Yes. I would never want those screws catching on my trousers all the time. Counter sink with a bigger paddle bit
I appreciate the info. Potentially this is useful for other tyoes of supports, as well. I wonder if another row of allthread through the center of the one side (where you have the space) would be useful. Also, a hand planer would make a very flat surface much simpler to attain
Uh... what is 3/8 rod?
Great video brother. Thanks for the effort, and yes, I was with you the entire time.
OKBushcraft
10 mm, but I bet you know.
10 mm in metric would do.
Trivia question: who invented the imperial measurement system? 😉 peace
Could you use 4×4 instead??
What is the use of not watching it in full if you want info ? People are mad ! Good stuff .Thank you !
Yep when in doubt smack it more!
Great video Roy! I have a larger Peter Wright anvil (around 180 lbs) that I want to mount on a larger stand than the one in you video since I also am going to be using a Hardy Hammer I built from your plans. My question(s) is/are do you think that 3/8 inch all thread rod is sufficient or should I go to half inch for the bigger size lumber? And, I am thinking of using nine 8"X 8" posts or twelve 6" X 6 " posts cut to the proper height so that the stand has more mass and surface area so that when the Hardy Hammer is being used, the stand will not wiggle or walk across the shop floor. What do you think? Any suggestions would be appreciated Thanks again for posting this very useful video! I am definitely looking forward to the next 2 videos in this series.
Err, what size was the threaded rod you used? 😋 Seriously though, I need metric!!!! LOL Sorry Roy, we watch for your metal working skills amd that you're funny. I don't mind the dodgy woodwork, even though it looked amazing at the end. Best quote "if it isn't working, hit it harder"! I like "if it still doesn't work, find a bigger hammer"! as an add-on to your quote. Back to blacksmithing, I recently saw a blacksmith with the same problem of needing a longer drill bit..... that needed to be about 4ft long!!! He just nocked up a spade/paddle bit in the forge! You could give that a go at some point soon...... probably not a 4ft one though LOL I hope you back feels better soon 👍
Use 10mm
@@scotthummel4248 thanks Scott, I was actually just messing about with Roy as he had been on a little Roy Rant about not asking what size rod he used. Thank for the reply though, I love the community on here who help out with answering questions and pointing people to helpful videos 👍
The exact size of threaded rod doesn't matter that much, this is the type of project where's you can pretty much just eyeball some of the components.
something like your project there, I have a hint, if you don't want your nuts and washers exposed, counter sink the holes as deep as the stack of nut and washers. the easy way i found, is to start your hole with a larger bit the size of the washer. then finish your hole with the smaller bit. you will find that the large bit will leave A center hole for the smaller bit. ya its just a Looky-Looky thing. I hope it helps. you are doing awesome!
charring the wood will actually help preserve the wood
Thanks for the headphones warning
Hey Roy what kinda of propane did you use lol just got all my material ⅝ threaded rod was on sale so hope that is OK but I've been waiting for a year to do this
I built mine the same way. Any unevenness at the top was solved by routing the shape of the anvil foot into it.
Just cut to outside of your line . That way your right on the length . Hope this makes it easier . For you .
My wife is pregnant, and I put a weed burner on the Amazon registry. For SOME REASON she doesn't think it's necessary? I think your video demonstrates exactly why it should be there. Honest question though. Can you hit those bolts on the end to flatten them out to help prevent the nuts from loosening over time, or are those going to be too hard to do that with? I've not yet begun blacksmithing so please excuse my ignorance.
Is that adjustable wrench metric or Imperial??😁
Seriously though I have learned a lot from you channel. Keep up the great work.
#question is there a minimum size anvil or base that is needed for the hardy power hammer
So this is the video you darkened the block. I wondered if you burned it. Looks nice like that. Still don’t know which video where the blue anvil turned black but I’ll blame Sony’s app in PS4 because things sort...different. Personally I’m not sure how I feel about the blue.
Umm, you bolted 4 6x6s together. Nice work but a 30 min vid is a bit long.
is it better to mount directly on the wood? I have a ~125lb steel plate, would it be beneficial at all to set the plate on the wood stand and then the anvil on top of the plate?
If you can surface grind the top of the plate and the bottom of the anvil as well as welding the anvil to the plate before lag bolting the plate straight down into the stand the result would probably be nearly ideal.
Old wood isn’t usually charred. But many times it was coated with tar, or glued together with tar, the way the outside wood was on real Tudor houses. It’s interesting how people seem to think that people used to live with “antique” brass, and dirty, charred wood. They didn’t. That’s just on old stuff that was sitting for decades and not polished or cleaned. Back then people would have been horrified at such things. The tarring might have people thinking it was charred, as it’s also black.
Get a piece of wood thats 2 to 3 inches thick like a 2x4 and drill a series of holes ever inch down the length of the wood with a drill press with different diameter bits and engrave or write next to said holes the respective size.
What this does is allows you to line up a hole thats perfectly straight on at 90 degrees, drill an inch or two into the new material to create a pilot hole and finish up the hole to whatever depth you need it to be without the guide and it will be dead on 90 degrees everytime.
You could probably make one out of one inch aluminium stock or square tubing too, throw it in your tool box and it will save you more time than you realise
I think they're actually called a reciprocating saw, but I might be wrong
It is a reciprocating saw, made famous by the Sawzall brand, at least here in the states. So, regardless of what the brand is we call it a 'Sawzall'.
Over here in Euroland its often called a bayonet saw.
Used my first on in the Summer of 1984 at a construction job. We called them "Sawzalls". I remember the Milwaukee one was $100 in 1984 dollars!
@W Wood We call it a sawzall, but that's kinda like calling all tissue a Kleenex, regardless of the brand.
All rotary tools are dremmels, all circular saws are skillsaws, all reciprocating saws are sawzalls. Anything else?
A weed burner ? I could use one of those on the fire ants here in Texas
Larry Gockley gasoline
Will
Diesel is better, lasts longer!
Hate being tall, I have to cut mine 30 in. And have the 6in. Anvil, 3 feet total haha
You should have drilled holes to countersink the washers and nuts.
I found a cheap steel 88lb anvil for $113 I’ll probably mount mine to a log or I may by some 6X6’s and make a support I’m not sure but I’m gonna use construction adhesive not silicone caulk I’ve heard it works better get some cheap hammers turn them into decent ones with a grinder till I can forge my own hammers I can’t afford a $200 hammer but I can make one
Alkaline Copper Quartinary when burned creates toxic fumes.
Hot dogs I think I'm 69 like lol..!
Has anybody ever told you ... 💥🔨 ok ok only kidding. Man what an arm. Lol
Yours was way easier than mine. But you used the same design principle ad I did. Yours turned out really nice. Still piddeling w mine. But at the moment they are in same state glued n bolted n serviceable. I only had 4x4s. So it's 49 4x4 , 28 through bolts. 70 lbs coal slag n sand n oil hidden in the 4 corners. Bout 340 LBS I reckon. I like yours charred. I don't want to charr mine. Danish oil finish I reckon. Adding 4 in 1/8 straps top n bottom to cover the bolt holes. Only have the 250 lbs anvil now but still working on the big girl so I just made it for her.
Can't wait to see your mounts video!! It's gonna be great I'm sure.
🙏 God bless yall now
Crawford out ⚒️🧙♂️
Possibly a dumb question... but is it safe charring that treated wood. Not sure of what chemicals are used but that concerned me a bit.
It puts off toxic smoke and fumes. I don't see a lot of smoke and his shop is pretty ventilated, however it still isn't best practice on treated wood.