Hey everyone, I've had a couple questions regarding the flipping of the right rear arm. I didn't go into deep detail and didn't show the steps because it was already done. However, it is very possible you might run into some clearance issues on the arm towards the bearing carrier area. If you are running limiters in the shocks it's not as bad of an issue (like my car). However I still had to do a little Dremel work around that little cross brace near carrier. Nothing major, but a little clearance work is to be expected. If you are not running limiters, the problem will likely seem more problematic. I just wanted to help further explain this to help with this pinned post. Thank you again for all the support. I'd also like to add that the reason why we flip the right rear arm is due to rules and thats another reason why we dont just put a left arm on the right rear as well. As crazy as it may sound the rules says the arms must remain in the factory areas left on left side, right on right side, but flipping the right rear arm is allowed since the arm is still in its "original location" even though its flipped. Hence, further reason before you even consider doing this, verify your rules at your local track. I dont make the rules lol, I just go by them. Lastly, I've had some messages and comments on why not just use normal diff oil for the diff. You Absolutely can and that's what the diff oil is designed for. My method I shared here in this video regarding using shock oil instead serves as two purposes. One: 20 to 30 shock oil is something we all likely have in our RC racing tool boxes so it keeps you from having to buy another bottle of fluid and gives you something that works within an arms reach. Two: its a proven method that myself and several other racers have used for years without any issues whatsoever. If you decide to go the actual diff oil method it will work as well. I just recommend using the lightest diff oil that the diff can hold without leaking. Thank you all for the continued support!
@@KillrodCane if it's allowed I'd def run the left on the right. Either way it's possible and likely to run into a lil fitting work but either will work great.
Thank you JB! We race a slash late model class & I never could get my car to rotate in the corners like other guys & was always tight. It took me 2-3 years of racing before I found out about these from a guy at the track & it made a world of difference. Really appreciate you sharing this & will really help the new racers & some like me that just been struggling a couple of years & just never figured it out. Slash oval is cheap & fun & has brought a lot of people into the hobby. Keep ‘em coming JB & thanks as always!
Low a Steam I greatly appreciate the kind words and support. I really do. Glad you found the help as well. It's little things like this that make a difference.
Thanks again man. I just got in a stock slash to build up a mudboss. I have a deal on a 1/5th scale coming to me next week lol. I'm ready to get back into racing. I've been out of it for 15 years .
I’ve recently got into RC by a karting buddy of mine. I won my first feature last week because the winner had done this and got DQd (turns out our rules don’t allow it). I had actually watched this video a day or so before… lol. We have a pretty cool Slash spec late model class up here about 10 minutes from Bristol Motor Speedway. Usually get anywhere from 17 to 25 late models.
David, awesome to hear your friend got you into the hobby. Here locally we have several Karting and big car racers that also enjoy the RC Racing hobby as well. Absolutely, That's why I put up the disclaimer about flipping the arm to check with your tracks rules first. Some allow it, some don't. Our track allows it in certain classes and others they don't.
THANKS FOR THE TIPS!! I clean my transmission the same way as you....but never seen the flip the A arm upside down...might have to give that a try!! Rules at my tracks say right A arm must remain on right side....left must stay on left side! So i think this is safe for the rules!
Great video. Ive got a 12 t mud boss I'm going to be running this will definitely help. I also just picked up a breakout truck for etc next year you got me hooked
I know you mentioned talking to the local track about the flipping the control arm rule, but if the rule read "Chassis box stock HCG NO modifications" as far as the chassis goes that the only rule we have. In your opinion does this violate this rule?
Great question and in all honesty, I would still ask the race director. When this first started happening locally it was brought up to our race directors' attention. The short answer was something on the lines of "as long as it has not been modified, simply flipping the arm is allowed". However, if you ask another race director at another track, their answer may be very different. This was also during a race series of which all tracks part of this series ran the same rules. Now, I personally went back to the rear arm the correct and factory way. I found it to be a bit too aggressive for me personally.
@@jbtricklerc thanks so much for the reply and great answer. The reason for not asking the director is his son races in mudboss with us, so if he didn't already know the trick I wanted to keep it to myself. Thanks again for the great content.
I like the rear toe trick👍 We're just building our oval now but here in Australia, our 1.1 Street stock class flip a coin to decide the direction they run the track and we're wanting to bring the same thing to our box stock class. Great info and video as usual 👌
Is this on all stock components? I just starting dirt oval, on a rustic back yard style track, trying to get all tips and tricks i can lol great video !
It is mostly. The rules that we run only allowed an aftermarket steering servo and bandito racing tires and wheels and aftermarket shock springs on stock shocks. I have a slash build on the channel as well where I convert one to a dirt oval car and talk about the springs and internal shock limiters. It may be worth checking out as well. Thank you!
Anytime Mearamack. I love the Nightmare Before Christmas. I was using 50/50 water and simple green. If it's packed in factory grease I've used brake cleaner as well because the factory grease can be more of a pain to get out the first time. I appreciate the support and comment.
It’s been many years since I raced and am looking at getting back into it possibly with an associated car but I’m not sure that the differential will hold fluid as well as the traxxas diff does plus I’m not sure if the control arms will be able to be flipped either. I will have to look into it.
agordon7369, welcome back to the hobby! Yeah, it will be more experimental with the associated as everything mentioned here is Traxxas Slash specific as that is the car that we must run (unless in the breakout class). But anything is possible. There are many options out there for a smooth differential, I was sharing my method specifically here. But there are other good options as well. experimenting will be helpful.
I didnt bother to look at other comments but a good way to get that fluid to stay in the diff is a little trick i picked up many years ago. Use thick automotive chassis or bearing grease on parts you suspect will leak. Its messy but i assume many people grease the inside of the gearbox anyway. I do
Every few races. The hard part is figuring out how many few actually means as it can vary from person to person. I'd check it every other race until you determine when it actually looks to need it. then you'll know about how often you should. Best of luck to you in all your RC racing!
Just bought a new 2wd with the magnum 272r it's soooooo smooth and quite and jumpy quick on 2s luv it never owned a 2wd....some guys run slash 2wd oval on Friday night thanks for the tips gonna give it a go
Rod and Tami I totally understand. If you haven't already be sure to check out the other videos I linked in the description and shown at the ending of the video as those are very helpful as well for these cars. Also feel free to message me on Facebook or Instagram and I'd be happy to give some more one on one tips and setup advice to try. That way I know what class you're running and what rules we need to comply with. Thank you for the support and comment. It really means a lot.
Thank you for this video,it was a real eye opener for a rookie. Let me return the favor. Get yourself a cheap banggood ultrasonic cleaner breaks down anything with hot soapy water.
I greatly appreciate it Sbass32. The Ultrasonic cleaner is a great addition as well. I have indeed used one on various occasions as well. Great idea and great addition to the comment thread.
th-cam.com/video/tx_iHI8JVvk/w-d-xo.html A lot of your questions are answered in this video link. As far as late model body. There are various types. Just have to make sure it's sized for a slash or SCT truck. MR Kustoms, Shark bodies LLC and JConcepts all make bodies.
I tried food grade anti seize and it seeped right out! I was going to ghetto lock it “JB WELD” but I got the hot racing locker! I’ll save the open diff for when I start spec racing 🎉 i grease with Lucas heavy duty the green grease 😂😂 vaild info thanks 🙏
I hear ya. There is no way of finding something that works like trying it. I've always said try various things. There is always more than one way. I greatly appreciate it.
@@livinlikelarry8782 Great question. I've never used them on a slash so I dont have one to recommend, but I'm sure someone out there makes a kit for the slash.
Awesome video! Thank you for the insight. Do you happen to have a link for the blue grease? I can't seem to find anything but the blue sticky grease. Is that the same stuff?
It all depends on the rules of the track you are racing at. Which I always tell everyone to verify before doing any parts changes or mods. If your track allows it I'd run full adjustable arms on both sides. The right rear flip trick was done as it was "within the rules" for our local tracks. Some places won't allow you to change them at all.
Gerald great question. Maybe and maybe not. Depends on how bad the traction rolling already is. If you're allowed to run limiters, those, springs and tires and steering dual rate is what I generally use to take traction rolling issues. Even with some rear steer the car still transfers weight to the right side when turning.
Unfortunately, I do not. We do not have any Slash 4x4 classes locally. However, if you look up my "converting a slash to dirt oval" video, A lot of what I do in that video would likely transfer and would be worth a try. If you do, update me and let me know how it works out! I appreciate the support and comment! Best of luck in all your RC racing adventures!
I'd say most races are won with a combination of set-up, corner speed and consistency. It can be a challenging combo to acquire, but with practice and preparation it comes with time. I had a racer tell me a long time ago that while RC oval racing you should only touch the steering wheel in two areas of a race and that's when driving it into the corner. Now, of course we have to steer or drive around other cars and avoid wrecks etc. But what he meant by that is the less you have to touch the wheel the faster the car. Any unnecessary steering corrections you make slows you down overall. It cannot always be avoided, but when you can, you want to drive it in and it should want to drive itself out as you ease off the wheel. Thank you for the support and comment!
Thank you Steve I greatly appreciate the support as always. I dont think this would translate to pan car carpet oval. This would mainly translate to transmission based cars.
Thanks for the come back buddy I appreciate it I wasn't clear we run a 1/18 scale latrax rally car on a small oval and was wondering if the toe out on the right rear would be wise
@@stevedodrillsonandoffthewo754 I gotcha now. I hear carpet oval I instantly think pan car lol it may work but would take some experimenting. That's part of the fun of RC racing, experimenting and Engineering lol. No problem at all. I appreciate the comments and talks always.
Kenneth that's a great question. I've heard of it being done a few times before. But I've never personally tried it to be honest. So I wouldn't have an actual opinion on it.
Michael, great question. I run this method in my current and all previous traxxas based cars and have for years. I'd feel it would be very beneficial for a tight track as well. 25, 30 weight oil or even a light enough diff oil. something to experiment with and I always go as light as the diff will hold.
@@jbtricklerc I am new at this and I feel that your tips and videos are very beneficial and I appreciate the help you offer to racers. Thanks for always replying to my questions.
@@KillrodCane no problem at all. I'm here to promote and help as much as I can. I greatly appreciate your comment and kind words. Best of luck to you in your RC racing. Have fun and best of luck and don't be afraid to comment or ask questions.
I cant remember exactly what I used for the video. But I typically used Magnumforce which was a cleaning spray available at my local hobby store. I also used brake cleaner as well. As long as you're wiping it out while cleaning it should be fine.
@@jbtricklercthank you for these tips and for all the informational videos! I'm totally new and just trying to navigate how to get around the carpet oval with my AE SR10 😃
Big Jeep it works well I. The Traxxas cars where we try to get the diff as free as we can and as light as we can where it will hold. It's an old racer trick for optimizing something that we likely already have instead of buying something else. In other applications where a thicker diff oil is required I stick with actual diff fluids.
You can clean it all with paint thinner and much easier to clean. Also pop off the bearings and clean out the grease in those. Trim the the blue overcast off the bearing seals. Will reduce the resistance.
@@jbtricklerc the tip on the bearings is for the stock classes that require stock bearings only. Mudboss and super street for example. Must have traxxas blue bearings.
@@wesfleming208 I hear ya there. I remember when I mainly ran paved oval back in the day we were also working the bearings in one way or another all the time. I always hated messing with the shields and such but we do what we gotta do right lol
Hey JB. Your buddies slash in this video. Does he race mudboss or latemodel? I like the front bumper and also the way the rear body posts are mounted. Curious if both those can be bought somewhere and if they’d work on a latemodel body like Shark Atomic?
Low aSteam that car is for the 10.5 Latemodel class. It's currently running the MR Kustoms Late model body. The front bumper I can't recall exactly but it's either a McAlister racing, CCS or Crazy Dave's front bumper I believe. All three make a great product. The rear body mount extension was a eBay purchased part I believe it was a AJC extended body mount. I'd imagine they would work on that body as well but you know how the RC body mounting can go lol sometimes some fitting and customization is required lol
@@jbtricklerc and I have another question lol. I noticed the slash in the video has a motor fan I found the extended rear body posts on eBay and you can get that same one with a fan mount. In your experience, does the fan provide any performance benefits?
@@lowasteam5319 Great question. Really great question. I'm sure my opinion will differ from others but for certain classes yes I believe it benefits and other times I'd say no. Some classes that are pushing everything to it's limits (motors, gearing, timing, etc) benefits in my opinion. A stock "spec class" I don't think it would necessarily be all that beneficial. As those type classes gear and limit the cars to make everyone "level".
Have been oval racing slash and t5 stadium truck now for about 3 yrs and finding info at the track to go faster is nearly impossible where we race. You can see some mods like the A-arm mod but some guys are so fast and their slashes are on a rail it seems. We run 12t titan class and don't know how they get their motors so fast? 🤔I have tried different break in methods with limited success. Maybe some just motor luck of the draw?
Leeroy, I appreciate the comment and there are many factors. One is definitely chassis and suspension setup. Getting that car on a rail and corner speed is very very important. Once the car is handling and cornering well, then I always focused on horsepower. With the 12T titans, it really is a luck of the draw. I used to buy 4 of them at a time, do the water break in method and then I'd test them to see which was my best performing motor. I'd keep the best for bigger races, the 2nd best for main events and the 3rd best for a normal club race. the 4th would just be a emergency back-up or id give them to a break-out racer. If you havent already, check out my other episode where i turn a slash into a dirt oval car. I go over some suspension setup in that video as well.
@@jbtricklerc yeah thanks for replying back I am gonna sub to your channel. I only race so my son and I can have fun out together not really out for much else, But it is good to be able to actually out up a fight and get a podium once in a while.
Hello I’m setting up a 2WD LCG slash for our bomber class. Couple questions. Are those the custom works Springs?, Do you prefer the big bores or the GTR shocks? 1/4 inch limiters in all 4 shocks? Or just the front. Thanks.
Hey HDFPV, No problem. I'm happy to help when I can. I used the stock shocks as it was required by the rules, but the springs are indeed custom works big bore springs. I also kept a set of Integy slash springs as well. As far as limiters go, I believe I was at 1/2" all the way around. You may have to fine tune it to your liking.
I go into a lot more detail in another video of mine where I do a full stock slash to dirt oval conversion. I recommend checking that video out as well if you havent already.
@@jbtricklerc thank you for your reply, if you could run any shock with the custom work springs what shock would you choose for 2wd lcg slash? i have seen the other video, thank you that helped alot. i picked up a roller with no shocks, just trying to figure best shock to run, also do you have a rough ride height you run?
@@HDFPV2015 great question. I never ran other brand shocks on mine personally. But based on what I've heard id imagine the proline or even aluminum associated big bores would be a good option.
Cletus, those are the Proline Traxxas Slash 2WD body post mounts on the front and the rear was a 3D printed rear extended body mount from eBay. No particular brand on those, just custom 3D printed part. They are pretty easy to find on ebay as well.
I've talked to my local track promoter/director and he is willing to do a video with me. Its getting him available to film it being the hard part lol. Very busy man but I definitely have it in the works. Just trying to get a date setup for the interview.
@Whoknows3347 if you are talking about buggy style solid wheels (no holes) I'm not 100% because I never used them personally. the wheels I usually ran was the DE Racing wheels like I used in this build. I believe DE racing makes some like you are looking for as well if I remember correctly. If not, you could still use the DE racing wheel information to determine what size you need for the front as they call out the different offsets as front and rear.
Nile Virus I appreciate the comment and information as well. Its always interesting to find out what other have used as well. I'm going to be experimenting with a newer grease I've never tried before in my new 2022 GFRP Havoc car as the direct drive has a gear diff instead o the older style direct drives. I'll probably cover my experience with that when the 2022 outdoor season opens back up.
Awesome Markus and thank you for the comment. I always enjoy hearing the different tricks and different items used. So many different ways to get to the same goal.
Mostly oval there is some carpet racing there is some rc derbies there is prolly gonna be some dirt drags maybe some mud bogs the local track I'm trying get a TH-camr to is route 31 raceway in kenton ohio
@@TheYammerHammer I haven't dealt with those personally, so I cannot say for sure. But most likely if it's still similar to a standard Slash in components.
@@jbtricklerc it looks pretty much like the same setup as the Traxxas modified. But just a different bumpers. I'm done pretty much everything up to the point of flopping that right rear arm. A lot of people have been sucking that RF in and pushing the LR out. Would this contradict your crab loc method or enhance my outdrive? Also I've noticed people restricting the right front 1/4 you on 1/2" putting about 2 ounces of weight. On a sticky clay track
@@TheYammerHammer Its worth a try. We were not allowed to shim the tires, we had to use the factory hex's at my local track. But shifting the left out and even the right front in can help. However, that may be too much with the flipped arm. So you may need to experiement by trying both.
Interesting. I only lightly cost the gears in bearing oil as the tranny should be broken down after every race day. Also, use the bearing oil on the gears in the case. Another thing you should do is pop those blue covers off the bearings take an exacto knife and trim the excess rubber coating on the inside of the blue cover. Do that for each side on each bearing. Add some bearing oil and put them back together. The amount of resistance you eliminate from the bearings is extrodinary. Try it on the bearings for the wheels. Do a spin test pre and post you will be amazed..
Awesome information Lucky 13 Racing! I've seen a few comments recommending the bearing mod as well. We use to do something very similar in the pan car world too. Any little detail can go a very long way. I appreciate the comment and support.
Thanks for the tip- here’s my speed secret- I use (orange oil) wood polish on my skateboard bearings- best lubricant for bearings that I’ve ever used- I’ve tried them all- from gun oil to shock oil- nothing beats orange oil
It would work as well. However, the reason we do it this way was due to the gray area rule. They stated the arms must remain in factory locations. So flipping the right arm technically kept it in the "factory location".
@@jbtricklerc I use to race buggy a lossi in the mid - late 90's. I used 30 wheight oil just enough to get a lite coating on the gears. I never thought of reversing the right Aarm
Tekno, that is a 3D printed adjustable rear body post for the Traxxas Slash 2WD. There really isnt a brand (not one that I'm aware of) I got the two I've used in my builds off of Ebay.
Randy the diff work absolutely. As far as the rear arms... I'm not sure. It's one of those thing you may like and may not and with carpet being extremely high bite it might work or it might make it turn too good. I haven't tried lol so if you do. Please let me know what you think
I had an extra HobbyWing Justock and 21.5 motor I put in it. It's for breakout racing and will likely have to tune down the speed endpoints some anyway.
@@BC-rc that's correct, it's a brushless system. I believe they are starting a spec brushed class. But the system I'm running is brushless and will be ran in the breakout class.
I've used a few different one and honestly, whatever I currently have most times lol. But I've used AWESOME and also break clean. But I'm careful if using break clean.
Bad for high bite. For loose dirt I cannot comment as I have no experience. With high bite (packed dirt track) it's all about corner speed so you want that differential working as smoothly and freely as possible.
folks some times Trim the " blue " bearing seal removing like 1/16th on the edge of the seal this reduces the drag on the bearing becouse the seal doesnt make contact witht he two moving parts
Zack absolutely, another small detail that other racers either are not aware of or overlook. When chasing tenths every little detail matters. Thank you for the comment and support!
@@zackriden79 thank you for the requests. I'll see if I can fit those in the near future. I've got 4 episodes lined up now but always try to work in the requested videos during down time weeks. Thank you for the support.
My mudboss went WAAYYY faster after removing the seals from all the non-outer brgs. in the gearcase and diff. clean w/ superclean in a jar and rinse/blow dry. I lube w/ ATF .. it stays on and wont fling off. Only leave seals on the brgs facing the dirt.
Absolutely. We removed the seals a lot of times on our pan cars. Much easier to clean than a dirt oval. In Some dirt oval classes we would change bearings ore some would trim the seals. However some classes which were supposed to keep "stock" bearings were inspected at big races.
For the Diff, for sure. In regard to the rear arm... It may be too aggressive. Although some pan cars do run an aggressive rear pod setup that acts similar. It may be worth trying, but be prepared to change it back if its too aggressive. Best of luck to you! Thank you for the comment
Awesome info, Thanks JB. What about tightening the spur down on a dry slick dusty oval? Will it want to spin more with your spur tight on that type of surface?
Flying Fortress RC Great Question. Getting the Diff free like in phase one should prevent that from happening. However, if you feel that it becomes an issue you could back it out a bit. However, what I normally do is always run my slipper tightened all the way down and if I need to slow the forward drive up (slide a bit back on throttle) I pull a little throttle curve out of the radio to slow it up a tad. But I'm personally always 100% tightened down on the slipper and I've race it that way on high bite surfaces as well as slicker surfaces.
@@jbtricklerc awesome I'm definitely going to try it. But I ran into a problem flipping the RR arm over.... My RR driveshaft is binding badly on the cross section of the arm next to the bearing carrier.. I'm in the lowest hole of the bearing carrier and even moved the lower part of the shock out to the hole closet to the tire... It's kinda hard to see yours in the video with the tire on but did you cut out that cross section? It's almost the only way I can see to do it but I'm afraid it would weaken the arm... Thanks 👍
It's also limiting the bearing carrier angle where the outside edge of the tire is about all that would be contacting instead of the whole surface. Meaning I can't move the top of the carrier towards the gearbox.. I'm doing this for a mudboss that is just like yours with the lcg chassis. Thanks JB.
Why not just use diff oil in the diff? Personally I'd be running 5000 or 7000 diff oil in the diff. For a 2wd Slash probably 5000 if it's running a brushed motor. If running brushless probably 8000-12000.
You can, and it works great too and worth experimenting with weights if that's the direction someone wants to go in. I was just sharing what me and a few others discovered long ago and able to use something that's likely already in your Tool box without having to order something different. There always various ways to get there. I appreciate the comment and support.
@@TruthFreedom1776 absolutely. And many still run diff oil in there too as you can get it light enough to do the job still successfully. This was just sharing a way to use something that most people would likely already have in their tool box. That's the beauty of it. There are many ways to get the same results. I appreciate the comments and support.
Funny to read you post something like this because not too long ago I found some Dupont lubricant/grease and it's something we use on some valve parts at work. It works great too lol
I race at a track box stock in Street stock slash. No mods but still do tricks. Your speed secrets don't compare to mine. I do not use grease on diff gears or on the 3 gears during assembly. Mine spin much more freely than what I just saw. I do my son's&grandsons gearboxes&bearings. My son track champion last year in SS. Grandson track champion Jr. SS Slash. Everything same except 50% power. I also seal diff case after completely cleanig so adhesive stays. They leak badly by 2 guide areas after assembly.
After thinking about this further and reviewing my previous reply I've updated it to be more accurate. I believe you are correct and could put a left arm on the right side as an option and would basically do the same thing (toeing out the right rear). However, we've never done this because per our class rules, we have to flip the right rear arm because it's "still the right rear and in the cars original location" even though it gets flipped. In other words its still in the same location as factory, just flipped. As crazy as it sounds (as I bet it would be easier to just put a left arm on the right side) it's one of those gray areas that was once outlawed but now is allowed lol. I wanted to update my reply to say yes I believe you could do that as well but like I always say, check with your tracks rules first, even here, some location and some classes it is outlawed. Thank you for the support MH
M H I have updated my reply. I realized that I was wrong in my original reply and updated it to elaborate why we have to flip the right rear arm but confirm your question could work too (if allowed). Thank you for the support.
Hey everyone, I've had a couple questions regarding the flipping of the right rear arm. I didn't go into deep detail and didn't show the steps because it was already done. However, it is very possible you might run into some clearance issues on the arm towards the bearing carrier area. If you are running limiters in the shocks it's not as bad of an issue (like my car). However I still had to do a little Dremel work around that little cross brace near carrier. Nothing major, but a little clearance work is to be expected. If you are not running limiters, the problem will likely seem more problematic. I just wanted to help further explain this to help with this pinned post. Thank you again for all the support. I'd also like to add that the reason why we flip the right rear arm is due to rules and thats another reason why we dont just put a left arm on the right rear as well. As crazy as it may sound the rules says the arms must remain in the factory areas left on left side, right on right side, but flipping the right rear arm is allowed since the arm is still in its "original location" even though its flipped. Hence, further reason before you even consider doing this, verify your rules at your local track. I dont make the rules lol, I just go by them.
Lastly, I've had some messages and comments on why not just use normal diff oil for the diff. You Absolutely can and that's what the diff oil is designed for. My method I shared here in this video regarding using shock oil instead serves as two purposes. One: 20 to 30 shock oil is something we all likely have in our RC racing tool boxes so it keeps you from having to buy another bottle of fluid and gives you something that works within an arms reach. Two: its a proven method that myself and several other racers have used for years without any issues whatsoever. If you decide to go the actual diff oil method it will work as well. I just recommend using the lightest diff oil that the diff can hold without leaking.
Thank you all for the continued support!
So my track does allow me to run a left arm on the right side do you think that's a better way or is flipping the right one over better
@@KillrodCane if it's allowed I'd def run the left on the right. Either way it's possible and likely to run into a lil fitting work but either will work great.
@@jbtricklerc thanks for the reply and keep up the great videos they are very informative and appreciated 👍
@@KillrodCane I greatly appreciate it and have lots more planned for sure!
Thank you for all of your great video's on helping me to go faster and knowing how to work on my Traxxas slash and maintaining my slash...👍⚡🏁🇺🇲
No problem at all. That is what the channel is for, helping newer racers! Thank you for the comment and support!
Thank you JB! We race a slash late model class & I never could get my car to rotate in the corners like other guys & was always tight. It took me 2-3 years of racing before I found out about these from a guy at the track & it made a world of difference. Really appreciate you sharing this & will really help the new racers & some like me that just been struggling a couple of years & just never figured it out. Slash oval is cheap & fun & has brought a lot of people into the hobby. Keep ‘em coming JB & thanks as always!
Low a Steam I greatly appreciate the kind words and support. I really do. Glad you found the help as well. It's little things like this that make a difference.
Thanks again man. I just got in a stock slash to build up a mudboss. I have a deal on a 1/5th scale coming to me next week lol. I'm ready to get back into racing. I've been out of it for 15 years .
That's awesome. Those 1/5 scales look like a lot of fun as well. Welcome back to the hobby and happy to help as I can.
You are the shit bro thank you. Just getting into the oval racing with my slash. So I am going to go step by step with your videos. Can't wait.
I greatly appreciate the support and comment! Glad you're finding the channel helpful and entertaining as well!
Good tip man I'm just getting into actual racing, appreciate the good video!
I’ve recently got into RC by a karting buddy of mine. I won my first feature last week because the winner had done this and got DQd (turns out our rules don’t allow it). I had actually watched this video a day or so before… lol. We have a pretty cool Slash spec late model class up here about 10 minutes from Bristol Motor Speedway. Usually get anywhere from 17 to 25 late models.
David, awesome to hear your friend got you into the hobby. Here locally we have several Karting and big car racers that also enjoy the RC Racing hobby as well.
Absolutely, That's why I put up the disclaimer about flipping the arm to check with your tracks rules first. Some allow it, some don't. Our track allows it in certain classes and others they don't.
This was a very insightful video and I appreciate it. Going to test it out this weekend if the weather permits. Thanks!
Awesome Chris. Best of luck to you and interested to see what you think.
THANKS FOR THE TIPS!! I clean my transmission the same way as you....but never seen the flip the A arm upside down...might have to give that a try!! Rules at my tracks say right A arm must remain on right side....left must stay on left side! So i think this is safe for the rules!
Awesome Modfather. Glad to hear it. Give it a try and let me know what you think if you can.
Great video. Ive got a 12 t mud boss I'm going to be running this will definitely help. I also just picked up a breakout truck for etc next year you got me hooked
Jeff that's awesome to hear and thankful you are finding entertainment and help with the channel. Looking forward to 2022.
I know you mentioned talking to the local track about the flipping the control arm rule, but if the rule read "Chassis box stock HCG NO modifications" as far as the chassis goes that the only rule we have. In your opinion does this violate this rule?
Great question and in all honesty, I would still ask the race director. When this first started happening locally it was brought up to our race directors' attention. The short answer was something on the lines of "as long as it has not been modified, simply flipping the arm is allowed". However, if you ask another race director at another track, their answer may be very different. This was also during a race series of which all tracks part of this series ran the same rules. Now, I personally went back to the rear arm the correct and factory way. I found it to be a bit too aggressive for me personally.
@@jbtricklerc thanks so much for the reply and great answer. The reason for not asking the director is his son races in mudboss with us, so if he didn't already know the trick I wanted to keep it to myself. Thanks again for the great content.
@@MichaelMUDDScruggs No Problem at all. I'm happy to help when I can and always try to respond. Thank you for the support!
I like the rear toe trick👍
We're just building our oval now but here in Australia, our 1.1 Street stock class flip a coin to decide the direction they run the track and we're wanting to bring the same thing to our box stock class.
Great info and video as usual 👌
Awesome Hyster. Be sure to send some pics when you and running. I'd love to see. Thank you for the comment and support
Just found your channel. Thanks so much. I just bought my first 2wd slash so doing some learning. 👍
Awesome! I hope you have had fun and success with it.
Thanks for the video and thanks for getting me into this. Hopefully I will meet next year sometime during the grassroots season.
Lunday Carter that would be awesome. I sure hope so and I'm glad you are enjoying the channel and the RC dirt oval racing.
Is this on all stock components? I just starting dirt oval, on a rustic back yard style track, trying to get all tips and tricks i can lol great video !
It is mostly. The rules that we run only allowed an aftermarket steering servo and bandito racing tires and wheels and aftermarket shock springs on stock shocks. I have a slash build on the channel as well where I convert one to a dirt oval car and talk about the springs and internal shock limiters. It may be worth checking out as well. Thank you!
TRICKLE IS IN THE HOUSE ..HELLO FROM V&B SPEED A NEW RC CHANNEL ✌
Great video. What are you spraying to clean with? Thank you for showing my nephew's car at the end.
Anytime Mearamack. I love the Nightmare Before Christmas. I was using 50/50 water and simple green. If it's packed in factory grease I've used brake cleaner as well because the factory grease can be more of a pain to get out the first time. I appreciate the support and comment.
Cheahs for the video bro, keep em comin'!
Thank you Bob. I really do appreciate it and have many more planned
It’s been many years since I raced and am looking at getting back into it possibly with an associated car but I’m not sure that the differential will hold fluid as well as the traxxas diff does plus I’m not sure if the control arms will be able to be flipped either. I will have to look into it.
agordon7369, welcome back to the hobby! Yeah, it will be more experimental with the associated as everything mentioned here is Traxxas Slash specific as that is the car that we must run (unless in the breakout class). But anything is possible. There are many options out there for a smooth differential, I was sharing my method specifically here. But there are other good options as well. experimenting will be helpful.
I didnt bother to look at other comments but a good way to get that fluid to stay in the diff is a little trick i picked up many years ago. Use thick automotive chassis or bearing grease on parts you suspect will leak. Its messy but i assume many people grease the inside of the gearbox anyway. I do
Awesome information. Its always fun to me hearing various methods and tricks from various people.
how often do you rebuild your gearbox?
Every few races. The hard part is figuring out how many few actually means as it can vary from person to person. I'd check it every other race until you determine when it actually looks to need it. then you'll know about how often you should. Best of luck to you in all your RC racing!
Just bought a new 2wd with the magnum 272r it's soooooo smooth and quite and jumpy quick on 2s luv it never owned a 2wd....some guys run slash 2wd oval on Friday night thanks for the tips gonna give it a go
Awesome to hear Joe and I hope you have a blast and find some helpful information on the channel. Best of luck and thank you for the support
@@jbtricklerc thanks brother
I wanted more tips and tricks - please.... Love this hobby, just wanted to be competitive.
Rod and Tami I totally understand. If you haven't already be sure to check out the other videos I linked in the description and shown at the ending of the video as those are very helpful as well for these cars. Also feel free to message me on Facebook or Instagram and I'd be happy to give some more one on one tips and setup advice to try. That way I know what class you're running and what rules we need to comply with. Thank you for the support and comment. It really means a lot.
Great vid mane
I greatly appreciate it
Thank you for this video,it was a real eye opener for a rookie. Let me return the favor. Get yourself a cheap banggood ultrasonic cleaner breaks down anything with hot soapy water.
I greatly appreciate it Sbass32. The Ultrasonic cleaner is a great addition as well. I have indeed used one on various occasions as well. Great idea and great addition to the comment thread.
Just started racing last summer (stock slash modified class). Definitely need to pull the car out of "storage" (winter) and do this. Thank you, JB!!!
Hey Edwin, that's awesome. Hope you've been having a great time with it. When you give it a try let me know your thoughts
What late model type body can I use and would I need to move the rear body mount like yours and where did you get those parts ? And wheels and tires
th-cam.com/video/tx_iHI8JVvk/w-d-xo.html
A lot of your questions are answered in this video link. As far as late model body. There are various types. Just have to make sure it's sized for a slash or SCT truck. MR Kustoms, Shark bodies LLC and JConcepts all make bodies.
Ooo I almost forgot. The rear body mounts were just a ebay find. It's a 3D printed set. Many sellers offer them.
I tried food grade anti seize and it seeped right out! I was going to ghetto lock it “JB WELD” but I got the hot racing locker! I’ll save the open diff for when I start spec racing 🎉 i grease with Lucas heavy duty the green grease 😂😂 vaild info thanks 🙏
I hear ya. There is no way of finding something that works like trying it. I've always said try various things. There is always more than one way. I greatly appreciate it.
@@jbtricklerc you know any titanium hardware kits ? Most my stock hardware is almost stripped out.
@@livinlikelarry8782 Great question. I've never used them on a slash so I dont have one to recommend, but I'm sure someone out there makes a kit for the slash.
Yeah I'll keep hunting for them, I need them so when I'm bashing on pavement I'm throw a bunch of sparks 😆😆😆
Awesome video! Thank you for the insight. Do you happen to have a link for the blue grease? I can't seem to find anything but the blue sticky grease. Is that the same stuff?
Brian Kasner, I believe that was Losi Grease I got off of A-main hobbies. Thank you for the support and comment as well.
Brian I found it. Here's the link. Hope this helps.
www.amainhobbies.com/team-losi-racing-great-grease-8cc-tlr77001/p241116
Oh cool...thank you!
One question. So if I flip my back right arm like you said, would it be good to also have an adjustable arm on the back left arm?
It all depends on the rules of the track you are racing at. Which I always tell everyone to verify before doing any parts changes or mods. If your track allows it I'd run full adjustable arms on both sides. The right rear flip trick was done as it was "within the rules" for our local tracks. Some places won't allow you to change them at all.
@@jbtricklerc thanks. Makes sense.
With the flip of the RR a arm will that help with traction roll
Gerald great question. Maybe and maybe not. Depends on how bad the traction rolling already is. If you're allowed to run limiters, those, springs and tires and steering dual rate is what I generally use to take traction rolling issues. Even with some rear steer the car still transfers weight to the right side when turning.
My first race is tomorrow, I’ll be transferring these ideas to my SR10
Best of luck to you and have fun!
Do you have videos on Traxxas Slash 4x4 VXL setup?😁
Unfortunately, I do not. We do not have any Slash 4x4 classes locally. However, if you look up my "converting a slash to dirt oval" video, A lot of what I do in that video would likely transfer and would be worth a try. If you do, update me and let me know how it works out! I appreciate the support and comment! Best of luck in all your RC racing adventures!
@@jbtricklerc Thanks I am looking at it now.
? Mr JB in your years of experience in dirt oval would you say most races are won staying on the bottom of the track
I'd say most races are won with a combination of set-up, corner speed and consistency. It can be a challenging combo to acquire, but with practice and preparation it comes with time. I had a racer tell me a long time ago that while RC oval racing you should only touch the steering wheel in two areas of a race and that's when driving it into the corner. Now, of course we have to steer or drive around other cars and avoid wrecks etc. But what he meant by that is the less you have to touch the wheel the faster the car. Any unnecessary steering corrections you make slows you down overall. It cannot always be avoided, but when you can, you want to drive it in and it should want to drive itself out as you ease off the wheel. Thank you for the support and comment!
Speed secrets are great love it keep up the good work just wondering will this translate to carpet oval
Thank you Steve I greatly appreciate the support as always. I dont think this would translate to pan car carpet oval. This would mainly translate to transmission based cars.
Thanks for the come back buddy I appreciate it I wasn't clear we run a 1/18 scale latrax rally car on a small oval and was wondering if the toe out on the right rear would be wise
@@stevedodrillsonandoffthewo754 I gotcha now. I hear carpet oval I instantly think pan car lol it may work but would take some experimenting. That's part of the fun of RC racing, experimenting and Engineering lol. No problem at all. I appreciate the comments and talks always.
What is your thoughts on graphite powder for your transmission..my tech guy told me to try that out
Kenneth that's a great question. I've heard of it being done a few times before. But I've never personally tried it to be honest. So I wouldn't have an actual opinion on it.
Ok I was just wondering if you heard about that or tried it
I run on a small oval with 2 pretty tight turns would you still recommend using the 30 wt shock oil or a heavier one.
Michael, great question. I run this method in my current and all previous traxxas based cars and have for years. I'd feel it would be very beneficial for a tight track as well. 25, 30 weight oil or even a light enough diff oil. something to experiment with and I always go as light as the diff will hold.
@@jbtricklerc I am new at this and I feel that your tips and videos are very beneficial and I appreciate the help you offer to racers. Thanks for always replying to my questions.
@@KillrodCane no problem at all. I'm here to promote and help as much as I can. I greatly appreciate your comment and kind words. Best of luck to you in your RC racing. Have fun and best of luck and don't be afraid to comment or ask questions.
what would it do if you put 2 right side aarms on the back
Cool video!
I greatly appreciate it RC Offroad!
What do you use to clean out the transmission?
I cant remember exactly what I used for the video. But I typically used Magnumforce which was a cleaning spray available at my local hobby store. I also used brake cleaner as well. As long as you're wiping it out while cleaning it should be fine.
@@jbtricklercthank you for these tips and for all the informational videos! I'm totally new and just trying to navigate how to get around the carpet oval with my AE SR10 😃
@@davidm8584 no problem at all. That is what the channel was made for. Helping and entertaining. Best of luck and most importantly, have fun.
I clear the bearings shield out 3 and 1 oil in the diff and replace the top shaft to the drag slash top shaft and no spacers in the transmission
Nice info as well! The bearing shields were a pan car trick we did for years as well.
16:52 phase#2 slipper clutch spring adjustment 21:52 differential info. 24:35 rear arms tricks / toe adj
I’ve used diff oil in my crawler shocks before, never thought to use shock oil in my diffs 👍
Big Jeep it works well I. The Traxxas cars where we try to get the diff as free as we can and as light as we can where it will hold. It's an old racer trick for optimizing something that we likely already have instead of buying something else. In other applications where a thicker diff oil is required I stick with actual diff fluids.
You can clean it all with paint thinner and much easier to clean. Also pop off the bearings and clean out the grease in those. Trim the the blue overcast off the bearing seals. Will reduce the resistance.
Awesome information as well Wes. I use to rework all my bearings. Then I just started going ceramic. Though some of those need some attention too.
@@jbtricklerc the tip on the bearings is for the stock classes that require stock bearings only. Mudboss and super street for example. Must have traxxas blue bearings.
@@wesfleming208 I hear ya there. I remember when I mainly ran paved oval back in the day we were also working the bearings in one way or another all the time. I always hated messing with the shields and such but we do what we gotta do right lol
Hey JB. Your buddies slash in this video. Does he race mudboss or latemodel?
I like the front bumper and also the way the rear body posts are mounted. Curious if both those can be bought somewhere and if they’d work on a latemodel body like Shark Atomic?
Low aSteam that car is for the 10.5 Latemodel class. It's currently running the MR Kustoms Late model body. The front bumper I can't recall exactly but it's either a McAlister racing, CCS or Crazy Dave's front bumper I believe. All three make a great product. The rear body mount extension was a eBay purchased part I believe it was a AJC extended body mount. I'd imagine they would work on that body as well but you know how the RC body mounting can go lol sometimes some fitting and customization is required lol
@@jbtricklerc thank you JB!
@@lowasteam5319 anytime. I'm glad to help when I can
@@jbtricklerc and I have another question lol. I noticed the slash in the video has a motor fan I found the extended rear body posts on eBay and you can get that same one with a fan mount. In your experience, does the fan provide any performance benefits?
@@lowasteam5319 Great question. Really great question. I'm sure my opinion will differ from others but for certain classes yes I believe it benefits and other times I'd say no. Some classes that are pushing everything to it's limits (motors, gearing, timing, etc) benefits in my opinion. A stock "spec class" I don't think it would necessarily be all that beneficial. As those type classes gear and limit the cars to make everyone "level".
Have been oval racing slash and t5 stadium truck now for about 3 yrs and finding info at the track to go faster is nearly impossible where we race. You can see some mods like the A-arm mod but some guys are so fast and their slashes are on a rail it seems.
We run 12t titan class and don't know how they get their motors so fast? 🤔I have tried different break in methods with limited success. Maybe some just motor luck of the draw?
Leeroy, I appreciate the comment and there are many factors. One is definitely chassis and suspension setup. Getting that car on a rail and corner speed is very very important. Once the car is handling and cornering well, then I always focused on horsepower. With the 12T titans, it really is a luck of the draw. I used to buy 4 of them at a time, do the water break in method and then I'd test them to see which was my best performing motor. I'd keep the best for bigger races, the 2nd best for main events and the 3rd best for a normal club race. the 4th would just be a emergency back-up or id give them to a break-out racer. If you havent already, check out my other episode where i turn a slash into a dirt oval car. I go over some suspension setup in that video as well.
@@jbtricklerc yeah thanks for replying back I am gonna sub to your channel. I only race so my son and I can have fun out together not really out for much else, But it is good to be able to actually out up a fight and get a podium once in a while.
@@leeroyexcavator9149 i completely understand. Welcome to the channel and I hope you find it helpful and entertaining.
Hello I’m setting up a 2WD LCG slash for our bomber class. Couple questions. Are those the custom works Springs?, Do you prefer the big bores or the GTR shocks? 1/4 inch limiters in all 4 shocks? Or just the front. Thanks.
Hey HDFPV, No problem. I'm happy to help when I can. I used the stock shocks as it was required by the rules, but the springs are indeed custom works big bore springs. I also kept a set of Integy slash springs as well. As far as limiters go, I believe I was at 1/2" all the way around. You may have to fine tune it to your liking.
I go into a lot more detail in another video of mine where I do a full stock slash to dirt oval conversion. I recommend checking that video out as well if you havent already.
@@jbtricklerc thank you for your reply, if you could run any shock with the custom work springs what shock would you choose for 2wd lcg slash? i have seen the other video, thank you that helped alot. i picked up a roller with no shocks, just trying to figure best shock to run, also do you have a rough ride height you run?
@@HDFPV2015 great question. I never ran other brand shocks on mine personally. But based on what I've heard id imagine the proline or even aluminum associated big bores would be a good option.
Where did u get the body mount posts from?
Cletus, those are the Proline Traxxas Slash 2WD body post mounts on the front and the rear was a 3D printed rear extended body mount from eBay. No particular brand on those, just custom 3D printed part. They are pretty easy to find on ebay as well.
any luck on the track building video we talked about?
I've talked to my local track promoter/director and he is willing to do a video with me. Its getting him available to film it being the hard part lol. Very busy man but I definitely have it in the works. Just trying to get a date setup for the interview.
What solid wheels fit the front
@Whoknows3347 if you are talking about buggy style solid wheels (no holes) I'm not 100% because I never used them personally. the wheels I usually ran was the DE Racing wheels like I used in this build. I believe DE racing makes some like you are looking for as well if I remember correctly. If not, you could still use the DE racing wheel information to determine what size you need for the front as they call out the different offsets as front and rear.
Personally, I found having grease in the diff it's alright and cover the gears with Lucas oil additive. Works good.
Nile Virus I appreciate the comment and information as well. Its always interesting to find out what other have used as well. I'm going to be experimenting with a newer grease I've never tried before in my new 2022 GFRP Havoc car as the direct drive has a gear diff instead o the older style direct drives. I'll probably cover my experience with that when the 2022 outdoor season opens back up.
I do this to my trans also don't know if it helps much but thinner than grease and it stays on the gears.
What I use for the diff is Kimball Midwest penetrating grease it's an arisol can it last longer
Awesome Markus and thank you for the comment. I always enjoy hearing the different tricks and different items used. So many different ways to get to the same goal.
The Kimball midwest is made in ohio which is where I live
@@markusnichols8062 awesome! What other types of RC racing is prominent there?
Mostly oval there is some carpet racing there is some rc derbies there is prolly gonna be some dirt drags maybe some mud bogs the local track I'm trying get a TH-camr to is route 31 raceway in kenton ohio
@@markusnichols8062 that's awesome! Sounds like a blast for sure!
I use the berring oil that is for AC and coolers with the tub that pulls out.
Bryan Allen, thats cool! So many different options and different methods out there. May times experimenting leads to great finds and success.
Nice! Thank you!
No Problem Billy. I hope you find the info helpful. thank you for the comment and support.
will this work on the slash modified?
@@TheYammerHammer I haven't dealt with those personally, so I cannot say for sure. But most likely if it's still similar to a standard Slash in components.
@jbtricklerc man you got to come back and teach us all how to set those things up now. They're getting quite popular
@@jbtricklerc it looks pretty much like the same setup as the Traxxas modified. But just a different bumpers. I'm done pretty much everything up to the point of flopping that right rear arm. A lot of people have been sucking that RF in and pushing the LR out. Would this contradict your crab loc method or enhance my outdrive? Also I've noticed people restricting the right front 1/4 you on 1/2" putting about 2 ounces of weight. On a sticky clay track
@@TheYammerHammer Its worth a try. We were not allowed to shim the tires, we had to use the factory hex's at my local track. But shifting the left out and even the right front in can help. However, that may be too much with the flipped arm. So you may need to experiement by trying both.
Interesting. I only lightly cost the gears in bearing oil as the tranny should be broken down after every race day. Also, use the bearing oil on the gears in the case. Another thing you should do is pop those blue covers off the bearings take an exacto knife and trim the excess rubber coating on the inside of the blue cover. Do that for each side on each bearing. Add some bearing oil and put them back together. The amount of resistance you eliminate from the bearings is extrodinary. Try it on the bearings for the wheels. Do a spin test pre and post you will be amazed..
Awesome information Lucky 13 Racing! I've seen a few comments recommending the bearing mod as well. We use to do something very similar in the pan car world too. Any little detail can go a very long way. I appreciate the comment and support.
Good idea, I will try that. Never thought about that actually causing drag. Didn't know it rubbed. But will give it a go!! Thanks
Thanks for the tip- here’s my speed secret- I use (orange oil) wood polish on my skateboard bearings- best lubricant for bearings that I’ve ever used- I’ve tried them all- from gun oil to shock oil- nothing beats orange oil
would putting a left side a arm do the same thing as flipping the right a arm
It would work as well. However, the reason we do it this way was due to the gray area rule. They stated the arms must remain in factory locations. So flipping the right arm technically kept it in the "factory location".
Couldn't you use graphite instead of the 30 wheight shock oil?
I suppose you could. There's many different methods that work. Just sharing what worked best for me.
@@jbtricklerc I use to race buggy a lossi in the mid - late 90's. I used 30 wheight oil just enough to get a lite coating on the gears. I never thought of reversing the right Aarm
@@terryperrott8567 awesome, very cool. Oh yeah, there's always various methods and ways and finding what works best for you is part of the fun
What rear body post mount is that?
Tekno, that is a 3D printed adjustable rear body post for the Traxxas Slash 2WD. There really isnt a brand (not one that I'm aware of) I got the two I've used in my builds off of Ebay.
@@jbtricklerc alrighty thank you, I'll try and find one. Great video btw
@@cfbwarzone I greatly appreciate it! I'm happy to help when I can.
Does this work the same on carpet
Randy the diff work absolutely. As far as the rear arms... I'm not sure. It's one of those thing you may like and may not and with carpet being extremely high bite it might work or it might make it turn too good. I haven't tried lol so if you do. Please let me know what you think
What motor and esc are you planning for the legend?
I had an extra HobbyWing Justock and 21.5 motor I put in it. It's for breakout racing and will likely have to tune down the speed endpoints some anyway.
@@jbtricklerc is that brushless?
@@BC-rc that's correct, it's a brushless system. I believe they are starting a spec brushed class. But the system I'm running is brushless and will be ran in the breakout class.
What degreaser are you using?
I've used a few different one and honestly, whatever I currently have most times lol. But I've used AWESOME and also break clean. But I'm careful if using break clean.
Hey JB I was wondering if you could help me get started with rc oval
I can do my best. What specifically are you looking for? you can reach out on facebook or my email as well.
@@jbtricklerc send me your email please
Don’t skip out on cleaning the bearings and putting some bearing oil in them & cutting the dust shields to produce less drag
Great tips and absolutely!
What front bumper is that?
I can't recall 100% but I believe it may have been the McAllister front number. They make various bumper setups for buggies and SCT trucks
Might of been asked but how about using a Slipper eliminator ?
Peter good point and it probably would work. However most if not all our classes around here won't allow it.
is a lock differential good or bad on dirt oval
Bad for high bite. For loose dirt I cannot comment as I have no experience. With high bite (packed dirt track) it's all about corner speed so you want that differential working as smoothly and freely as possible.
folks some times Trim the " blue " bearing seal removing like 1/16th on the edge of the seal this reduces the drag on the bearing becouse the seal doesnt make contact witht he two moving parts
Zack absolutely, another small detail that other racers either are not aware of or overlook. When chasing tenths every little detail matters. Thank you for the comment and support!
@@jbtricklerc can you do a video of Wheel bearing 5x10x4 trimmed vrs stock , if you have time that is , and a water brake in video ?
@@zackriden79 thank you for the requests. I'll see if I can fit those in the near future. I've got 4 episodes lined up now but always try to work in the requested videos during down time weeks. Thank you for the support.
My mudboss went WAAYYY faster after removing the seals from all the non-outer brgs. in the gearcase and diff. clean w/ superclean in a jar
and rinse/blow dry. I lube w/ ATF .. it stays on and wont fling off. Only leave seals on the brgs facing the dirt.
Absolutely. We removed the seals a lot of times on our pan cars. Much easier to clean than a dirt oval. In Some dirt oval classes we would change bearings ore some would trim the seals. However some classes which were supposed to keep "stock" bearings were inspected at big races.
does this mod work on pavment oval?
For the Diff, for sure. In regard to the rear arm... It may be too aggressive. Although some pan cars do run an aggressive rear pod setup that acts similar. It may be worth trying, but be prepared to change it back if its too aggressive. Best of luck to you! Thank you for the comment
Awesome info, Thanks JB. What about tightening the spur down on a dry slick dusty oval? Will it want to spin more with your spur tight on that type of surface?
Flying Fortress RC Great Question. Getting the Diff free like in phase one should prevent that from happening. However, if you feel that it becomes an issue you could back it out a bit. However, what I normally do is always run my slipper tightened all the way down and if I need to slow the forward drive up (slide a bit back on throttle) I pull a little throttle curve out of the radio to slow it up a tad. But I'm personally always 100% tightened down on the slipper and I've race it that way on high bite surfaces as well as slicker surfaces.
@@jbtricklerc awesome I'm definitely going to try it.
But I ran into a problem flipping the RR arm over....
My RR driveshaft is binding badly on the cross section of the arm next to the bearing carrier.. I'm in the lowest hole of the bearing carrier and even moved the lower part of the shock out to the hole closet to the tire...
It's kinda hard to see yours in the video with the tire on but did you cut out that cross section?
It's almost the only way I can see to do it but I'm afraid it would weaken the arm... Thanks 👍
It's also limiting the bearing carrier angle where the outside edge of the tire is about all that would be contacting instead of the whole surface.
Meaning I can't move the top of the carrier towards the gearbox..
I'm doing this for a mudboss that is just like yours with the lcg chassis.
Thanks JB.
I actually just tried the same thing with my Traxxas bandit street stock and have the same problem as my mudboss.
@@flyingfortressrc1794 I did have to do a little fitting. I didn't remove anything but did Dremel a bit for clearance.
Black tape works well for the vinyl square
Todd absolutely. Some people don't even bother covering it back up but I do and go by the more dust n dirt you can keep out the better.
@@jbtricklerc another speed trick is to trim the bearing shields back around the inner race
@@toddshobbyzone659 great speed secret tip as well! I greatly appreciate the comments and support
Why not just use diff oil in the diff? Personally I'd be running 5000 or 7000 diff oil in the diff. For a 2wd Slash probably 5000 if it's running a brushed motor. If running brushless probably 8000-12000.
You can, and it works great too and worth experimenting with weights if that's the direction someone wants to go in. I was just sharing what me and a few others discovered long ago and able to use something that's likely already in your Tool box without having to order something different. There always various ways to get there. I appreciate the comment and support.
@@jbtricklerc Diff. oil is pretty inexpensive though. Like shock oil, or grease. Just saying. But I appreciate the reply,
@@TruthFreedom1776 absolutely. And many still run diff oil in there too as you can get it light enough to do the job still successfully. This was just sharing a way to use something that most people would likely already have in their tool box. That's the beauty of it. There are many ways to get the same results. I appreciate the comments and support.
Permatex silicone ceramic extreme brake parts lubricant...it is a thing.
Funny to read you post something like this because not too long ago I found some Dupont lubricant/grease and it's something we use on some valve parts at work. It works great too lol
I race at a track box stock in Street stock slash. No mods but still do tricks. Your speed secrets don't compare to mine. I do not use grease on diff gears or on the 3 gears during assembly. Mine spin much more freely than what I just saw. I do my son's&grandsons gearboxes&bearings. My son track champion last year in SS. Grandson track champion Jr. SS Slash. Everything same except 50% power. I also seal diff case after completely cleanig so adhesive stays. They leak badly by 2 guide areas after assembly.
Cool! Congrats!
👍
I appreciate it Pinstag
Like the info but way to many commercials throughout, pull back on those some.
I appreciate it JM. Not sure why some ads seem worse in some video's than others. The channel is monetized now.
Couldn’t you just put a left on the right side instead of flipping it?
After thinking about this further and reviewing my previous reply I've updated it to be more accurate. I believe you are correct and could put a left arm on the right side as an option and would basically do the same thing (toeing out the right rear). However, we've never done this because per our class rules, we have to flip the right rear arm because it's "still the right rear and in the cars original location" even though it gets flipped. In other words its still in the same location as factory, just flipped. As crazy as it sounds (as I bet it would be easier to just put a left arm on the right side) it's one of those gray areas that was once outlawed but now is allowed lol. I wanted to update my reply to say yes I believe you could do that as well but like I always say, check with your tracks rules first, even here, some location and some classes it is outlawed. Thank you for the support MH
M H I have updated my reply. I realized that I was wrong in my original reply and updated it to elaborate why we have to flip the right rear arm but confirm your question could work too (if allowed).
Thank you for the support.