Thanks for making this tutorial video. It's going to really help out lots of people doing this type of work on our rides, and of course we do appreciate you taking the time to show us your expertise from years of experience. Continuous respect and appreciation.
Old guy checking in. I've found that with some dinged trim, taking the time to make wooden dies fitted to the trim is worth it. Got my 65 Nova grill straight by beating on wood. Thrift store spoons, wood or metal are handy dollies too.
From one old guy to another - I’m doing some stainless and aluminum restoration.Yes I been wanting to make some molds/ dies of some of the trim.Thinking of polycarbonate using diy vacume forming Mold. Recently thinking obout wood also.I banged out some pretty serious gashes in stainless with plastic end of my gunsmithing hammer .Course can’t use in tight spots .I don’t like bringing up with a pick hammer then all the filing.Eliminated all that with my gunsmithing hammer.Anyway I’m still experimenting .If I have a mold of small section of stainless and I get one really banged up or like some I’ve done smashed flat……I can get it perfect or darn close.Fortunately I had identical piece of stainless to go by when restoring smashed flat ones.
I was really impressed by the way you did that I didn't know about any of that stuff but I am thankful for you being able to show and explain all the steps involved thank you for doing that I'm sure that helped a lot of people out
Crazy my dad was never taught just self taught he showed me few years back and I've been working on everyone's stuff here and there ever since your video just popped up you do awesome work takes alot alot of time to do right
Thank you sir. I’ve been messing around with this stuff myself lately and I was actually going thru 800 and 1000 grit before hitting it with 1500. Now I know I can skip those two steps. Shoulda just called and asked you. 😅
And another good information video that I can't handle the goofy back ground noise (music?) being 3 times louder than the spoken words. Hurts the ears wearing headphones. Pros use a chemical dip that removes a small amount of metal to remove the anodizing.
Great video… just used your video and polished mine.. just stuck now how the brackets go back on to hold these trim pieces on since I didn’t take them off lol
Well done for your detailed explanation. May I humbly suggest a few things: When sanding aluminium please use some type of gloves as aluminium can get into your pores and bloodstream. Also I found it easier between sanding grits to use a felt tip marker and scribble all over or guide coat to ensure that you sanded the previous grit (easier to see). You do not need to go more than 800grit since you are using a pro buffer. Use a sisal wheel with brown for first cut, brown on spiral and then white on soft wheel for ultimate shine. One last thing please wear a face mask when polishing as that compound will fly up your nose and into your lungs. Apologies for the long rant but I admire you as I am also self taught but also had some great tips from Pros. Thanks and wish you all the best.
@@lonestarlows Not finer than 800 usually. Finest I ever went was 1000 but that was because the trim was so thin that long buffing cycles will warp it. Also note that the 600/800 are wet sanding.
Quality products. 2000-3000 in materials. This would be raptor, epoxy 2k , basecoat clear. Sand papers ...I paid 900 for 2 gallons basecoat for my 60 last month....
ive restored my trim on my 70 challenger. in my experience, i found that aluminum and stainless steel, its kind of irrelevant to go passed 600 grit on scratching. the buffer, wheel, and rouge bar will take care of removing the rest of the scratches from there on. you may need to hit SS with 800 grit, but for the most part, 600 grit was enough. black rouge with sissal wheel will knock out 600 grit no problem. and brown rouge will knock out aluminum 600 grit no problem. just sharing my experience. it will save a ton of time from sanding all the way to 3k grit
Great vid...Question I'm doing my 62 rag right now and I'd like to chrome plate all of my trim aluminum and then stainless..is that possible...thanks..
Very cool video nice work on the trim
Glad you liked it!
Thanks for making this tutorial video. It's going to really help out lots of people doing this type of work on our rides, and of course we do appreciate you taking the time to show us your expertise from years of experience. Continuous respect and appreciation.
Thank you for watching
Old guy checking in. I've found that with some dinged trim, taking the time to make wooden dies fitted to the trim is worth it. Got my 65 Nova grill straight by beating on wood. Thrift store spoons, wood or metal are handy dollies too.
Excellent advice. I've thought about making a fiberglass type of shell to make repairs quick
From one old guy to another - I’m doing some stainless and aluminum restoration.Yes I been wanting to make some molds/ dies of some of the trim.Thinking of polycarbonate using diy vacume forming Mold. Recently thinking obout wood also.I banged out some pretty serious gashes in stainless with plastic end of my gunsmithing hammer .Course can’t use in tight spots .I don’t like bringing up with a pick hammer then all the filing.Eliminated all that with my gunsmithing hammer.Anyway I’m still experimenting .If I have a mold of small section of stainless and I get one really banged up or like some I’ve done smashed flat……I can get it perfect or darn close.Fortunately I had identical piece of stainless to go by when restoring smashed flat ones.
I was really impressed by the way you did that I didn't know about any of that stuff but I am thankful for you being able to show and explain all the steps involved thank you for doing that I'm sure that helped a lot of people out
Awesome video. The info you share with the lowrider community is priceless! 👌🏽
Glad you liked. Don't plan on stopping any time soon, thanks
Great job! Thanks for sharing.
Nice looking work
Thank you
Crazy my dad was never taught just self taught he showed me few years back and I've been working on everyone's stuff here and there ever since your video just popped up you do awesome work takes alot alot of time to do right
Once you hit them with the buffer they popped just like clear coat on a fresh paint job😮 phenomenal job!!!!
Thank you. Yes. It's all about using the proper rouge, or compound
Amazing work... 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Absolute fire bro! Great tutorial. I can’t wait to get to this part in my project.
Glad to help. It's not hard, just takes time
I’ll be watching out for that video.
Dam bro they look amazing,u know ur stuff,thank you for showing us,
Thank you
Absolutely excellent, I learned a lot here and already have the little hammer and anvil just didn’t know what to do with them. Thanks 🙏🏻
Walk in the park compared to what you are doing to your car, for sure 👍👍
Knowledge is key thank You for the knowledge Sir
Glad to help
Amazing Job!
@lonestar lows 🔥 learn something new every time
Glad to help
Thank you sir. I’ve been messing around with this stuff myself lately and I was actually going thru 800 and 1000 grit before hitting it with 1500. Now I know I can skip those two steps. Shoulda just called and asked you. 😅
Thanks now my seat trim will shine😊
very helpful
Like always, good work 🔥🔥
And another good information video that I can't handle the goofy back ground noise (music?) being 3 times louder than the spoken words. Hurts the ears wearing headphones.
Pros use a chemical dip that removes a small amount of metal to remove the anodizing.
Sodium hydroxide
Great video… just used your video and polished mine.. just stuck now how the brackets go back on to hold these trim pieces on since I didn’t take them off lol
I dont know off top of my head but the good news is they can only go on 1 way
F*****g love this dude. No Homo. Thanks for the vids bro!!!!
Great video. Do you plan on leaving bare aluminum as is, or anodizing or caroming?
Not sure yet
Well done for your detailed explanation. May I humbly suggest a few things: When sanding aluminium please use some type of gloves as aluminium can get into your pores and bloodstream. Also I found it easier between sanding grits to use a felt tip marker and scribble all over or guide coat to ensure that you sanded the previous grit (easier to see). You do not need to go more than 800grit since you are using a pro buffer. Use a sisal wheel with brown for first cut, brown on spiral and then white on soft wheel for ultimate shine. One last thing please wear a face mask when polishing as that compound will fly up your nose and into your lungs. Apologies for the long rant but I admire you as I am also self taught but also had some great tips from Pros. Thanks and wish you all the best.
Great info. Thanks. I always wondered what grit I should stop at. So you think 800 is fine enough?
@@lonestarlows Yes it is and try it and see the result.
How fine do you go on stainless
@@lonestarlows Not finer than 800 usually. Finest I ever went was 1000 but that was because the trim was so thin that long buffing cycles will warp it. Also note that the 600/800 are wet sanding.
Thanks for the tip. I plan to do all the stainless on my car. I usually go up to 3000 wet. Maybe I've been wasting my time.
Where are you guys located? I might need to have my VINYL ROOF DYED ?
Were those anodized and did you sand all the anodized off to make it all one finish
Good tutorial. Thank bro.
Are you back in the USA???
@lonestarlows lol, yes back to reality on Monday. I'm going to try this process on the front grill trim of my truck.
Can you use a electric sander instead of a air sander?
Yes
👌🏽
Already thanked you on IG but thanks again for the video brother.
😀👍
😎
Welcome to "Lonestar Lows Trade School AKA School of Hard Knocks"
Great video!! Inspired me to do the same to mine. Quick question, did you or are you going to coat them with anything or just leave them as is?
I plan to either leave them as is or maybe have them chrome plated in future
Off topic, do you have ruff $$ cost for materials to paint an impala? Paint/ clear/ primer etc.... no labor just on materials... thanks
Quality products. 2000-3000 in materials. This would be raptor, epoxy 2k , basecoat clear. Sand papers ...I paid 900 for 2 gallons basecoat for my 60 last month....
Do you seal them or put a coat of clear to protect the finish
I have clear coated them with automotive clear in the past. But they just need an occasional maintenance with mothers polish or something similar
what do you protect it with?
Nothing. Routine maintenance polish with mothers
ive restored my trim on my 70 challenger. in my experience, i found that aluminum and stainless steel, its kind of irrelevant to go passed 600 grit on scratching. the buffer, wheel, and rouge bar will take care of removing the rest of the scratches from there on. you may need to hit SS with 800 grit, but for the most part, 600 grit was enough. black rouge with sissal wheel will knock out 600 grit no problem. and brown rouge will knock out aluminum 600 grit no problem. just sharing my experience. it will save a ton of time from sanding all the way to 3k grit
Yeah, since this video I've tried different methods. I'm always trying different methods and I've found out a sisal with black cuts fast
Who else thought this was a Bigstackd video from the thumbnail 😂
Shots fired to all those shops charging an arm & leg to get this done for hundreds/thousands $$$
Haha. Unintended. There's enuff work out there for everyone to get paid, or DIY and don't pay at all....different strokes for different golks
Great vid...Question I'm doing my 62 rag right now and I'd like to chrome plate all of my trim aluminum and then stainless..is that possible...thanks..
There's no real need to chrome plate stainless molding.