Ender 3 V2 3D Printer, How to Calibrate Z Offset for BLTouch V3.1
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ส.ค. 2021
- Here is the BLTouch version I am using in this video:
amzn.to/3p6XeLA
Recommended upgrade for any Ender 3:
Yellow bed springs - amzn.to/3xQdPVK
or to take it a step further - amzn.to/33LPTde
These springs make auto bed leveling easier on your Z stepper motor. Or you can go with these rubber spacers that some people call one and done “springs”: amzn.to/3gdQ8AN
Here is the BLTouch version I am using in this video: amzn.to/3maFHll
It has been working great for the last year.
I made this video as short and no fluff as possible while also commenting on some important info to help you get it just right.
You will need to install the correct Creality firmware (or 3rd Party firmware) in order for the BLTouch to work properly.
Here I go over calibrating the Z offset for the Ender 3 V2 with the BLTouch V3.1 which I installed in a previous video. This is a simple follow along that I made straight forward and to the point. Your Z offset may be different than mine depending on your hotend and nozzle, so don't use the same exact values I use, but instead, just get your nozzle close using the same process (and possibly different Z-offset numbers) I used, making sure not to lower your nozzle and hit the bed with it.
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After hours on TH-cam, reddit, Facebook groups, etc. I finally got my bed leveled the CR touch figured out. I’m so thankful for this tutorial, and actually explaining the diff between move Z axis and the Z offset and how you use both to level. Literally the most confusing part on every other tutorial. Thank you so much
This is the first video I watched on z offset that actually made sense! Thank you....followed along and got it perfect on the first go
Your video has helped me through so much suffering, thank you!!!!
Thank you very much for taking the time to make this video. The 8-9 minute video you spent making saved me the frustration and time I previously lost trying to figure it out. Much appreciated!
Thank you so much. That is great to hear!
Bro, I wish I found this video yesterday, can’t wait to do it in the morning now it’s clear
The comment at 3:28 in this video, claiming "you might want to step down 0.04 more once or twice" is what made most sense to me. All other videos test with paper and leave it at that, but they do not compensate for the paper's height later on. This video does. Thanks a lot
I was having trouble until watching this video! You saved my ender 3 v2!
Thanks to you and your video I'm back up and printing again. Thanks for the very informative vid.
Always happy to hear comments like this!
I am so grateful for this video. Thank you. Really well explained and it works. First video I've watched explaining what to do and my first layer is perfect. Just watching my print now and if it goes wrong from here then I know it's not my first layer!
Very helpful video, thank you!
I have the CR Touch. Now a days the new firmware moves the nozzle as you turn the knob so don't have to click it when adjusting.
For some reason my machine wouldn't use the saved negative Z-Offset. Only until I did the offset at x117 & y117 did it actually work! so thanks :)
Thank you for the video. Can you explain how you manually level the four corners? The video time lapsed through that.
Sorry about that, I sort of did that on purpose for the purpose of this video. There were tons of videos on leveling, but not many on z offset alone. I recommend edge of tech for a good how to level manually video.
Thanks super helpful. My Z offset didn't work,- it didn't move the hot end, tried the "Z offet tool" and that worked. Don't forget to store settings once done
I had this issue before and reflashing the firmware solved my issue. I also highly recommend installing Jyers or first layer firmware. They are both so much better than Creality stock firmware.
How did you generate the test print? Was it from a STL file or is it something the printer can do straight from the display commands?
Owning a Ender 3 V2 myself.
BTW what bed do you have and what slicing software you use?
And any other recommendations that you might have wold be great.
So darn new to this, trying to assimilate as much as I can.
Tried the STL file that came on the SD card of the printer and sadly all I've achieved so far is a bunch of stringy mess.
Thanks!
Same 😂
Good video, very helpful. I take it these same steps will work if running the CR touch?
For the most part it should, yes. I’m not sure on the exact details of the CR touch, but I’m pretty sure the firmware is the same for both, possibly a different xy offset for the probe, basically when doing your z offset, you’d just need to make sure you move the nozzle to where the probe homes to in the middle of the bed. Ie, if the probe probes at X110 Y110 instead of X117 Y117. Then you just need to use the coordinate of wherever the probe touches during that step in the video.
Hi! If I sent you a 4.2.7 board and Creality's new Ender Series touchscreen then would you be willing to do a Z-offset calibration video for it?
I finished the Z offset video for the stock firmware as well as the how to install video. Custom firmware video is in editing today after I install the firmware ad DWIN.
What hotbed are you using?
Hi, do you have a recommendation for the best firmware (and possibly the link) to use for the Ender 3 v2 with a BL Touch auto levelling accessory fitted please?
Just bought a 2nd hand one when I press the home setting it goes to the bottom left corner not the middle of the bed like yours. Have you and idea why? Thanks
You are amazing. You saved me lol
hola amigo saludos!
tengo un problema con mi ender 3 v2 pero esta queda es pegada a la cama osea aprieto y bajo la cama a todo lo que da los resortes y ihual queda la boquilla pegada a la cama!
me ayudas?
All good until 6:03 when you move the Z-axis to 0.00 - can you please explain? My understanding form th evisual is that after calibrating the Z-offset to -3.14, you are resetting the Z axis to 0.00, but it's still set at -3.14. Don't really get it but will give it a go.
Thanks for this video. I've found that when I do the following: 1) auto-home; 2) adjust Z-offset to -0.7 which just scrapes paper; 3) auto home; then 4) move Z to 0.0, I'm still 0.7 mm above the bed surface. It seems to me that doing the auto-home overwrites the z-offset value. Any advice?
I can’t say I’ve seen this issue. My main thought would be that it’s a firmware issue. Reflashing fresh firmware from a fresh file online on a 4096 allocation size fat32 formatted micro sd card. If that doesn’t solve the issue, and it’s crealities firmware, then I might advise switching to something like Jyers or insanity automation. They really kick it into next gear compared to crealities version of marlin firmware.
Hi there. Very helpful video, but I am having troubling using the z-offset to move the nozzle down the rest of the way. Seems like when i adjust the number it doesnt move at all. Any idea what could be causing this? Thanks!
I’ve noticed this used to happen to me as well. Updating the firmware resolved the issue completely, but to fix it with changes, you should be able to simply turn off and on the machine again.
@@3dprintutopia961 Got it all sorte! Turns out I didn't have baby stepping enabled haha. Thanks for the reply!!
Can you show a video of how to level it and save it as well I’ve tried everything I know I just can’t seem to get it
From my experience directly, I had the same issue and it required reflashing the firmware and it fixed it right up. Make sure to format your micro sd to fat32 with 4096 allocation size.
I recently got a Ender 3 V2, and I can’t get filament to stick to my bed. It usually just curls up around the nozzle. Could someone maybe tell me what I’m doing wrong? I’ve tried cleaning the bed, adjusting temperatures, etc, and it’s still not working. Not sure if it’s something with the Z offset or if my bed is still not level.
Might be good to slow down your first layer speed. Start painfully slow at 5mm/s with a first layer height of 0.32mm until you can get it to stick. Taking the bed surface to the sink and washing with an extra toothbrush and a drop or two of dawn dish soap and a bit of hot water, then rinse thoroughly with hot water and pat dry with a paper towel. Also, ensuring your bed springs are nice and tight helps as well. You’ll likely want to buy some yellow bed springs to install as the stock ones aren’t great and make you have to level too often imo. Just to make sure, you have a BLTouch installed or no? If not then you’ll just need to play with your paper method. If you do have a BLTouch, then you’ll need to change the z offset. But first, try the slower speed and thicker first layer. If that doesn’t work, then do other stuff.
Thank you. When I try and adjust my Z-offset, I cannot get it close enough to the bed, at all. There is way too much space between the hot end and the bed, even when set to max of -10.00.... any ideas. I am using a CR-Touch and have removed the Z limit switch as instructed.
Without more info or being there. I can’t say for certain. One thing I noticed is that the stock Creality firmware is not great in terms of the bltouch. When I switched firmware away from creality’s, my bltouch problems went away. Other than firmware, there’s nothing in the way of the printer moving down? Something sticking out and catching it? If not that, then my thought goes to firmware issues. Also, just in case, make sure to home the printer multiple times as well, sometimes it gets weird in storing the homing data.
In addition to the first tip, I'd say to make sure your bed leveling adjustments are not cranked so the bed is the lowest possible. Try raising the bed up to about 3/4 of the way to fully extended springs, then leveling the bed manually and finally running with the BLTouch and see if you can get there.
Mueve los tornillos de la cama, afloja los o aprieta los para mover la cama más cerca de la boquilla.
Hello, please help, I have an Ender 3 S1 pro printer.
I changed the nozzle and when I try to level the bed, it lowers the extruder and the nozzle sticks against the bed and makes a very ugly noise, the cr touch works, I put a book on the bed and it did those 2 steps well. I raise the z axis. But when I tell him to level again he crashes into the bed. And raising the z-axis while it's making noise from being in contact with the bed makes me afraid to wait that long for the z-axis adjustment window to activate. I don't know if the limit switch needs to be adjusted.
Thanks in advance 🤗
Definitely either raising the limit switch, or giving it a positive z offset. However, once the nozzle has crashed into the bed even once, it’s likely deformed the nozzles hole now. Once you get the limit switch raised or z offset raised, you’ll definitely want to replace the nozzle if it’s brass.
What firmware should I be using with the Ender 3 and BL touch?
I also added the updated Creality springs and Sprite extruder direct drive kit
Do you save the settings afterwards?
You definitely can. Just keep in mind, if you switch bed surfaces often, then you will need to change it each time. It sort of keeps me in check by not saving it, but then sometimes it just decides to save on its own.
@@3dprintutopia961 How do you know if settings have saved? I’ve just bought a printer and had a play yesterday and having a hard time figuring out BLtouch piece in terms of this aspect
@@3dprintutopia961 if the z offset is the z distance from nozzle to bltouch why does changing your bed sheet matter to it?
@@rhadiem For something like flat Glass or smooth PEI, for me at least, I can’t have too much or too little of a squish, it needs to be just right, unfortunately though, because of that, lines are visible much more on the bottom of prints, however, with textured PEI, I like extra squish so that the bottom of my prints don’t show lines at all. This is useful for me because I sell art pieces that utilize the texture of the bed to give added effect. I’m sure you could use the same z offset for various prints and bed surfaces, just in my personal opinion, having it dialed in for each one makes it easier for me as well as better prints. But if one value works for you, then by all means, stick to that. Definitely good to experiment.
why doesn't my printer have the auto home option? it just says home all
If you set the offset to the top of the paper, thats where the print starts? So too high?
Depending on the bed surface, yea. With mine, paper is perfect because it’s textured pei so it naturally has deeper sections of the bed surface. With glass, you might want to print the test print you see at the end of the video, measure thickness, then adjust z offset until you get the intended thickness on a one layer print.
Please do more angles the side dosnt really help to much
I have a question. When I do the auto bed leveling feature, the left side of the bed the nozzle crashed into the bed because the touch is off the bed. Know of a way to correct this. It's like it thinks my bed is bigger than what it is
Ultimately, you touch needs to be closer to the bed. However, if you bought the one I use in this video, that shouldn’t happen. You could print a spacer so the bltouch is closer to the bed.
@@3dprintutopia961 the probe does probe the bed correctly, until it reaches the left side of the bed
@@chuckhope8909 Oh, apologies. So basically it thinks it’s too far to the left. Trying to move it to the right would be one possibility, but I don’t know the setup. I’m not sure if it’s bltouch or something else, but this firmware isn’t great for the cr touch yet because of the leveling issue you mentioned. It might be good to request the 5x5 grid be changed to a 3x3 or 4x4 so that it doesn’t reach the ends as much on some peoples bed. With the bltouch it works great for me though. Their is a way to change the configuration.h file in the firmware source code that allows you to shift the probe locations to points of your choosing. I think stuff like what you are explaining is more common with leveling probes in general if they happen to stick out a good amount from the extruder. Like my bltouch is pretty close to the hotend shroud. Is yours like that as well? Or a bit more space between?
@@3dprintutopia961 how would you change the grid? I was thinking that should be something to try. I am using factory mount for the touch. Looks like a little less that 2" from the extruder.
@@chuckhope8909 I haven’t done it myself before, but if you Google around about how to edit source code for the firmware and then search for where the bltouch grid commands are as well as what inputs you can enter, that should get you in the right direction. I found some info a year ago but never took the dive into firmware editing, so it’s somewhere out there.
Why does my bltouch when I set it to zero crash into the bed but when I don't en I fix it with zo offset en get it tuned and it does an autolevel. Still does not can go True all 9 points on my bed. And sometimes the middle one where I set everything to??
Help!
I’m not sure I completely understand the question. For it crashing into the bed at least, I’ve had that issue before and reflagging the firmware has helped. Occasionally before I reflagged my firmware, it also would probe only four points then get an error and stop. Reflashing the firmware solved this issue for me as well. Always make sure you use a freshly formatted MicroSD.
@@3dprintutopia961 can I send like a video to you?
Do you have instagram or something?
@@Houtoriteit yea, Instagram works. I’m @knd3dprints on IG, or you can post on the Creality official user group on fb in case it’s something I don’t know how to solve, either works.
@@3dprintutopia961 Just send you via insta
What’re the Xs and Ys for the 4 corners when you do manual leveling? Thanks
I do (20,20), (20,200), (200,200), (200,20)
My printer won't save the z offset to eeprom file any suggestions
My go to when everything else fails is reinstalling/flashing the firmware with a freshly formatted ad. Unfortunately I haven’t had that problem before.
Why does my ender v3 not have the Z-offest option in Prepare???
Sounds like you might have the wrong firmware possibly. I can’t say for sure though.
Why does the bl touch drive the head into the bed?
I auto home, it might work. I zero the Z axis. I use a piece of paper and the Z offset to adjust the nozzle height.
I auto home again, it might work.
I level the bed, sometimes it with level no worries, at other times it sits there flashing.
If it levels i print something.
It homes, then levels again😡, if it fails to level it will continue to try to print with the probe sticking out!
If it levels it auto homes which can cause a fail.
When it auto homes the head moves to the left front corner of the bed and up a few mm. It then moves the probe to the centre of the bed. The probe deploys, and lowers til it touches the bed, then it goes up redeploys and lowers a bit slower, then it goes up about 10mm or so.
When it fails it just drives the probe and then the head into the bed compressing it as far as it goes and makes the steppers click and jump. It fails more times than it succeeds.
This sounds like a firmware issue and not the bltouch itself. I’ve had this issue before and I switched firmware to first layer firmware by insanity automation and it never happened again. Sometimes just redownloading the firmware and reformatting to fat32 with 4096 allocation size can fix the issue.
@@3dprintutopia961 . The firmware is the marlin 1.1.2 bl touch. I have the pro not the v2, if that makes a difference. I’ll look at changing, thanks.
Ps. I just tried again after a sleep (night shifts aye) i auto homed, tested the nozzle height, and hit print. It was the xyz test cube. It didn’t auto level but did an auto home, started printing, had an adhesion failure, i canceled the print pulled the plastic off the bed and hit auto home.
It centred itself deployed the probe lowered till the probe retracted.
Raised up again.
Deployed the probe, turned blue.
Started lowering.
The almost as soon as the probe touched it turned red and just kept going until i turned it off.
@@python27au It’s also sometimes just an issue with the download. If the download isn’t perfect and the extraction as well as just the firmware build itself, along with a myriad of other factors, the firmware could fail when it is uploaded to the machine. Simply re uploading the same firmware might fix it, or it might not. Just a thought.
@@3dprintutopia961 Mate i could kiss you! It worked first go, didn’t even look like failing. I was just about ready to junk the thing and give up.
I tried formatting the card and re downloading the original file, that did nothing. I looked up the company you mentioned and after some digging found tens of dozens of files 😱 i have no idea what I’m doing so i just pick one at random that looks good and bugger me it worked. Its printing better than it ever did!!😁🥳
I just have to work out how to level it, it operates completely different to the other one and doesn’t look to intuitive.
But thank you very much mate.👍
@@python27au I’ll be working on a video about all the features of the firmware, it’s definitely a lot more than creality’s, that’s for sure.
I just fought with this for 1 hour... the step the guides miss is the "move" after the autohome...
Hey there. Hmm, are you talking about the move to X117, Y117 after the autohome? If so, I complete that step at around 50 seconds in the video.
Sorry, to many 'go aheads' in the first minute. Ffs, it is redundant and fucking annoying.
So I'm going to go ahead and find a better video.
Or I'm going to find a better video.
See how the go ahead was unnecessary.
You are amazing. You saved me lol