Free stroke and reach adjustment on Shimano road disc brakes How-to
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ต.ค. 2024
- The new free-stroke adjustment on the new Dura Ace R9170 and Ultegra R8070 is pretty poorly documented. Here a quick little how to video of the two options and a comparison between the different settings.
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Thank you for the SHORT 2 minute video! Several other videos I found were 12+ minutes long with tons of useless exposition.
Legend! I'm well down the rabbit hole of learning all about my new Di2 setup and I keep coming across your brilliant videos on the topic.
Shane Miller - GPLama super stoked that the GPlama finds it helpful!
Looking forward to see what kind of tweaks you end up doing to that new sweet TCR!
why cant all youtube videos be as simple and informative as this one!
Great vid, simple and quick. 'Screw this way for more free stroke, this way for less'. Perfect. I watched another video for ages and was still none the wiser as all I wanted was where the screws were and which way to screw them but he waffled on for ages without saying the most important point.
Thanks for the guide. The only problem I have is that the hood rubber is now kind of "loose". There are gaps inbetween it and the plastic underneath.
Same! Annoying. Hopefully it settles back in over time.
Nicely done...thanks. Does setting the lever free stroke or reach mean that you also need to change the amount of hydraulic fluid in the lines?
No, no change in fluid volume
Thank you for all the tutorials. They're so concise and helpful!
Thank you very much... best channel about bicyclicing related stuff
Thanks for this. I think the documentation may not have mentioned the reach adjustment at all, or else I missed it. It mentioned the free stroke adjustment, so I wrongly assumed that free stroke = reach, and then I found that changing the free stroke didn't seem to do anything. I later noticed that my R8000 levers were adjusted much closer to the bar than my R8070s, so I searched, and found this vid.
Hmm my RS685 manual says to turn the reach screw clockwise to widen the reach (like you in the video). Well, for the RS685, it seems to be the other way around. Or my brifters are really messed up :D And the manual also states to start with the free stroke, and then move on the reach adjustment, contrary to what random tutorials say on bike sites. I don't know if I can trust the manual anymore oO
You always have amazing music in your videos!
1:39 love this comparisson, i choose min free stroke and max reach
I was reminded of this video after a long night of repeated re-bleeding of my already very firm brakes, but to no avail. I already had the levers set up for shortest possible free stroke. Also, I would like to thank Shimano for making these adjustments so unbelievably fiddly...
And today I learned something very important about my brake system, thanks to you! Cheers, good sir.
Great video. Same as my observations.
1. The screws seem to do similar things
2. They both move the lever
3. There's very little difference
4. All of the above :)
Reach adjustment moves lever closer or further away from your handlebars, it does nothing to your brake. Free stroke moves shifter piston. This will reduce a free travel of piston before the fluid reservoir compartment is shut off and calliper piston is actuated. This is useful if you want to reduce lever travel before pads start moving, as a by-product is also moves your lever.
@@Di2_GP thanks for the explanation.
Is there generally much more free stroke on hydraulic disc brakes than rims? I've adjusted as advised in this vid but it didn't really make too much difference. I still seem to have to pull the lever half way before the brake pads engage with the rotor. Is it possible to make the brake levers super tight so you start to feel the brakes engage with just a slight touch?
It differs from lever model to lever model. As a hydraulic brake is a self adjusting system (the pistons will move closer to the brake disc when you wear down your pads) you can "trick" the brake into engaging earlier by removing the wheel and brake pads and then fully pull the lever completely to the handlebars once. this will push the pistons further out. your brake will engage earlier. yet the chance of rubbing is higher because the pads are closer to the brake disc. so you might need to re-center the calipers after this. if you find this did not do much you can pull the lever twice, but dont overdo it, the pistons will fall out after several full strokes and youl have a mess.
Thank you for the simple good video. I have a new bike and the screw for reach seems to be very Hard fixed, is there a trick to move this?
Make sure you’re not trying to adjust it beyond its end position.
Otherwise use a higher quality hex key (not with the ball-end, as it can strip the head in these small screws)
@@ridesofjapan Thank you, I will try.
hi. do these adjustments apply to ultegra 8020 (Hydraulic Disc mechanical)?
Rob Brothers yes, one adjustment screw is moved to the top of the lever near the camp (if I understand correctly)
Should be some Videos on this floating around Inthink)
Could this be affected by when you initially put the oil in/bleed? What settings should they be on then to actually see some adjustment once bled correctly.
Jon Foster the adjustments themselves are not affected by the bleed,
but if the brakes are in need of a bleed (like very squishy lever feel) having the least amount of reach and free stroke could mean that the lever bottoms out against the bar before you have enough braking power.
Great video, thanks a lot! I have adjusted the reach but not the stroke as the hoods seem hard to peel back and I don't want to wreck them. Is that normal, and are there any tips to ease them back? Thanks!
Rubber it tough! Should be any problem.
Thanks, they should make it easier to find.
youre right not well docuzmented untill recently i thought my ST8070 didnt have freestroke adjust (i hate big freestroke)
Thanks for this video Tobias. I'm working a new GRX 810 install and the reach adjustment is identical to the Dura Ace in yoru video. However the free stroke adjustment screw is on the top of the lever body facing outboard. It's about halfway back from the lever arm towards the handlebar, and probably a little easier to get to frim the back (bar) side.
The reach adjustment is fairly obvious. You see with your eye what it does. I'm still not entirely sure exactly what free stroke changes. I have big hands, and the *only* thing I miss about rim brakes is, I really a long reach and a really firm lever with no slack at all. I've yet to be able to duplicate that feel on disc brakes. No matter how I set the free stroke, there is a lot of slack in the lever pull before the brake is engaged. Based on that, and by it's name, I would assume that I want ZERO free stroke if I want the caliper pistons to be engaged immediately upon pulling the lever?
With the lever/caliper technology today, you can't them to bite as soon as you could on rim brakes. That would leave too little space in the caliper and you would end up with constant rotor rub. Even with the "servo" technology on GRX it still isn't possible.
We will have to wait and see how the next generation works, but I'd be surprised if that manage to pull that off
@@ridesofjapan Thanks. I have an old (2015) rim brake frame set that I'm holding off on until the new Dura Ace is available
BTW, you should set up channel memberships. It would help compensate for your time and give your subscribers another way to say thank you besides just a thumbs up on the videos.
I'm struggling to fact find on the R-series free stroke adjustments - is it only on the Di2 stuff, or do the mechanical shifters also have it?
slimjimihendrix yes, there is according to this Shimano installation manual:
si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-RADBR01-02-ENG.pdf
Page 54 👍
In the last 4x4 set, top two videos, the min free stroke case appears to pull further in than the max free stroke. Is that right or are they mixed up, or perhaps I'm seeing things...?
Duncan Sargeant everything should be correct, rather than the actual movement that will vary slightly depending of how much force used, look at the overlay “markings”.
(it’s all the same lever recorded at different time so hard to keep the force consistent)
@@ridesofjapan Got it - the freestroke as you say is such a small change I thought they were static reference markers. Thanks for the great video, I used your methodical approach to adjustment and that solved my issue. Nice one!
Just tried on my R7020 (new 105 hydraulic shifters). Stroke unfortunatelly cannot be adjusted all. Reach bolt can be found on the outside of the shifter - see manual here page 55 -
si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-RADBR01-03-ENG.pdf
very useful, thanx
Tried making these adjustments and none of them did anything. Finally decided to just change the brake pads and now the brake levers are perfect.
Excellent video !! thanks so much for the explanation, I've been looking for this for months and as you said there isn't any clear info around
Hi . Tks for your work. is it possible to have the same settings for R8000 disc?
Yes the R8070, Hydraulic Di2 have the same adjustment.
I do not know about the R8020 Hydraulic disc mechanical shifting however.
Grazie. Molto utile
Great explanation but minimum free stroke is still too much for me compared to rim brakes.
well done dude
excellent video sir!
...so is stroke adjustment only for hydraulic..?
doctorSpoc correct
The “stroke adjustment” on rim brake would be done at the caliper, how close you have the pads to the rim.
Hi. Does free stroke adjusment effects the rotor-pad clearance ?
Not at all in my experience
Rides of Japan I tried everything. My rotors are straight as hell, cleaned my pistons several times and carefully alingned the calipers. Also i tried re-bleed nothing changed. When i out the saddle or after long descent i hear god damn rub sound. I think i need more pad clearance someway. I am looking for the solution but nothing helped me yet. I missed my rim brakes.
Sorry to hear that mate, to bad I couldn’t be of more help. Hope you get it sorted some how.
Fantastic video. Thanks. Just what I needed!
What size allen?
2mm
Thanks great job
Thanks for showing this. How about on the hydraulic brakes itself-- any adjustments can be made there? Compared to mechanical where you can flip the brake release lever or adjust cable adjust barrel, is there any other way to fine tune the hydraulic brakes?
r0bv123 unfortunately no other adjustments available. The caliper self adjust as the pads wear down though. Most important thing is to bleed the system properly.
is it normal that after adjusting the reach towards the bar, there is a play at the top part (chrome part) of the lever when you are holding and pulling the hoods (like when you are climbing)?
Yes, that’s a result of reducing the reach
@@ridesofjapan
Thank you,
Will this also change the position of the pads (closer to the rotor)?
No
Not a rhetorical question. Does anyone actually have any rotor that stayed true during its entire life? None of the rotors - I'm talking about 8 of them - managed to stay true after use. In fact, most of them went out of true after just one use.
completely true - no. but the shimano ice-tec, especially the ultegra and dura-ace onces are very prone to warping after repeated heat cycles. i have much more luck with solid onces like from brakestuff or the floating ones from hope.
Shimano's disc brakes have much more play than Campagnolo and slam from the time the lever is pulled until the brakes are activated. This play is almost the same even if the stroke is adjusted, and it is meaningless.
For this reason, when the lever is narrowed with the smaller hand
When you apply the brake, it is dangerous because the lever hits your finger due to this play of about 2 cm and the brake does not work.
This is a structural flaw of Shimano.
The latest Dura-Ace R9200 does not solve this problem either.
Brake works immediately with campa and slam discs
What is the exact tool that I need to make the free stroke adjustment on the Shimano Ultegra?
2mm hex wrench for both settings
love the music dude.
Perfect execution of the subject matter, thank you!
the brakeset you are showing are not 9170 ?
It is 9170
Really helpful! thanks
Shimano's disc brakes have much more play than Campagnolo and slam from the time the lever is pulled until the brakes are activated. This play is almost the same even if the stroke is adjusted, and it is meaningless.
For this reason, when the lever is narrowed with the smaller hand
When you apply the brake, it is dangerous because the lever hits your finger due to this play of about 2 cm and the brake does not work.
This is a structural flaw of Shimano.
The latest Dura-Ace R9200 does not solve this problem either.
Brake works immediately with campa and slam discs