I didn’t realize you’d have to remove the bottom bracket to fish the wires through. Tough job!!! You did awesome for a first time, it’s not as intimidating as I thought it would be.
Dude you really know how to do this youtube thing extremely well. I'm only 34 seconds in so i cant say anything about the video. Just wanted to tell you i'm a fan. All the best from germany
It’s weird how the first time doing this seems so intimidating, but then you realize it’s all just screws and 90% of the bike can be assembled with one Allen key.
no its weird how scary it is until its perfect even though everything is going perfectly well you are scared 100 precent of the time and for many rides after any problem will cause fear
Before removing your old group and installing the new 12s: Just remove the front derailler and install the new (tape the battery to the top tube and so on). Check whether it's able to shift (leave the chain in the middle at the back) reliably into the lower ring. The new 12s group is designed around a 1mm outboard setup and your frame could be outside tolerance. Most of the time you can work with a 1mm spacer (both sides of the crank!), but sometimes it doesn't work out and it would suck to reinstall everything.
Not having a speed link is kind of weird. The only real difficulty in doing things like upgrades, changes, and heavy maintenance is the tools (how often do you need a cable cutter or press-fit removal tool?). But once you have them, it's such a pleasure to work on your bike
Hi A tip! When removing the wires and breakcables, when everything else is removed, I always attache the old ones to the new ones with tape, barbwire(a string of steel wire fits breakcables perfect and hold them together!). Then pull every old out together with routing the new through the frame. That way you dont have to try rute it afterwards. 👌🏼
Chapeau to you‼️ I’d never set a deadline like that (would remind me too much of writing a late-night term-paper due the next day!!!). I’m building a Dura-Ace version; wish me luck‼️🙏‼️
I loved your printing videos and I subscribed for that reason. To see you uploading videos about cycling, which I also love, made me stay for the ride!
Nice. I just did the same thing on my road bike this week - though I was changing from R8000 Ultegra with mechanical disks to 105 Di2 with hydraulic brakes. I was actually most worried about bleeding the hydraulic brakes, but despite having to cut the hoses to fit, the brakes worked without any sponginess right from the start - guess I was careful enough that I lost almost no brake fluid. With respect to the time issue, from my experience working against the clock basically never goes well. It always takes me quite a bit longer to do any work than I'd originally thought it would - and seemingly minor issues like your FD alignment problem are almost always the culprit for eating up huge amounts of time. Love my Di2 setup too, and can't wait to get out and get some real kms on it.
I'm a bit late to the party but thats such an awesome feat! I started taking apart and building my bikes around the same time you posted this video and I know exactly how you feel!! Scheduling a bike build into a tight full-time employed schedule and also getting all the right parts/tools is stressful enough in itself!!
@@blackfi12e622 the mild California weather helps I think. I've thought about waxing, but reapplying every couple of hundred miles seems like a pain to me. Maybe it's worth a shot, though!
Some day i'll hope trying to do a full maintenance of my bike for myself, disassembly everything... i'll take the risk like you do with this epic video! BRAVO! PD. And the new Ultegra is simply awesome...
Awesome job Mitch! I had a similar FD issue. I added a crank based power meter and well let’s just say after several hours I broke down and gave my LBS $10 to fix it! Well worth it though.
Same happened to me, changing a gossamer to 105 4iiii left. My LBS slightly moved the rotation of the front mech and a tweak to the tension and that was it. Funnily enough I took off the left side last Saturday and put it on my newer bike but with tiagra and didn’t want more hours fiddling to get it to shift to the top ring so that’s this weeks task. Amazing what a tiny difference in Q factor does (left crank is on so it can’t be anything else surely lol)
Yeah I am very friendly with a few of the guys there so they walked me through a few things while they fixed it. It was really helpful since I think I may be attempting a DI2 drivetrain upgrade myself soon.
Awesome video! Two questions, did you not have to bleed the brakes, and are that the ENVE Aero road handlebar? If so, how do you like them? Considering getting them myself.
Love the ENVE Aero handlebars-super stiff and comfortable too! The brake caliber and cable comes prefilled with brake fluid, and the reservoir in the shifters is prefilled too. As long as you don’t lose any mineral oil during the install, they’re good to go out of the box. I lost a bit too much oil while installing the front brake and did need to bleed it a little bit. The rear brake was tight right off the bat, no bleeding necessary.
Super impressed that you tackled this on your own without any prior experience. HOWEVER, I think you feeling it was "worth" the upgrade is more about confirmation bias than objective reality. Price and weight savings, this switch to Di2 is not worth it. As far as shifting and performance, still not worth it. I have mechanical Ultegra and Di2 as well and as someone who has been riding for 35+ years, I can say that Di2 is "NIce but unnecessary". It is simply the difference between "wants and needs" and you did not "need" to spend $2500 as it will not make any difference in how fast or far you can pedal that bike.
Thanks! Your opinion is totally fair and valid. I’m not racing or aiming for a world record, so to me it’s not really about performance. I’m just a dude who enjoys riding his bike. Whether it’s confirmation bias or not, I like the way it feels and sounds when it shifts. It brings a little smile to my face. Do I need it? No of course not. Do I enjoy it? 1000% yes. Will it get old one day and become normal? Also 1000% yes. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ it is what it is. Your description is spot on. Its “nice but unnecessary,” just like the rest of my bike :)
I don't know man. Have you ridden Di2? I've had Ultegra mechanical on past bikes and this is NEXT LEVEL NICE. Plus the buttons on the hoods underneath the tape to cycle through pages on your Garmin Edge--how cool is that??!! I'm sold.
10 is for The 10 Commandments, but there was the 12 Tribes of Israel . Had 11 speed mechanical. Now have Dura Ace 12 speed & Ultegra 12speed both Electronic. Both sensational
Very impressive job and video! For a guy with no experience, how did you have all the right tools, e.g. for the bb. Care to comment on sourcing them? Did you borrow, invest or get sponsorship?
4:56 She is going to the Cypress Park Home Depot with her bike?? Make sure you are quick in-and-out of the store. I first thought you wanted to make the 8am Montrose ride with a newly assembled bike. 🙂 I always need to plan 1 trip to Incycle for "that washer" or something for any build. Overall this went pretty normal on time.
THANKS TO YOU I WILL DEFINITELY STICK WITH MECHANICAL its worked for decades for me and l can fix it myself on da cheap especially since you guys will selling off all your old stuff off cheap :)
Its fun, but can get pricey real quick! Pro tip: start a TH-cam channel so you can recoup a little bit of the money... or maybe it'll result in you spending more... like some unnamed people... 😅😂
Planning to go the same route with practically the same bike (2020 RoadMachine). Did you need new (different) cable guides under the bottom bracket & on the downtube? Nice & very helpful vid! Thanks
Hi! To be honest, it got pushed back a bunch of times due to getting covid, my honeymoon, and the steepest streets videos. It'll be up mid-January, though! I can give you the quick version now: I still love it. The magic has worn off a bit, and it almost feels normal, but I still really appreciate it when shifting under load--going up hill or in a sprint.
That was much smoother than I thought. You could’ve saved some time by not sleeping… jokes aside, the only big time saving potential was just to use your old cables to route your new ones, would’ve saved half an hour
You are a brave, brave man to do it yourself. At least ultegra di2 disc has no cables for the shifters, just the brakes. Did the brakes require bleeding?
Thanks, James! Having only brake cables to route through the handlebars made it so much easier. The brakes came pre-liked with mineral oil so as long as you don’t lose a bunch during the install they’re good to go without a bleed. Of course, I lost a bunch of mineral oil while installing the front brake so I still needed to bleed that one 😅
Hey mate this video was very informative, thank you! Definitely gives me the confidence to have a go myself. I was just wondering, is it necessary to replace the bottom bracket moving from 11 to 12 speed ultegra? I can see you changed yours, but I was under the impression this isnt necessary.
The Shimano BB are the same for 9 speed - 12 speed cranksets. However, Shimano does state that once a press fit BB is hammered out, it should not be re-used. Personally, I have re-installed my PF BB a few times and I did not notice any performance loss or creaks.
@@downinla4076 Just another reason to dislike press fit BBs. For me, they'd be a dealbreaker - I'd absolutely refuse to buy a bike or frame without a threaded BB.
Nice upgrade and a big job that requires good skills and knowledge At least if you have any mechanicals you have the new knowledge to fix them in the future My titanium mechanical long distance road bike is 8.3kg Subscribed
I’m actually buying parts for a new bike now. I would LOVE to DIY my build, but I’m lacking in the tools department. It also sucks that the shops charge $200-$350 to build 🤯
Is your dog a dachshound? Love those! (And love the upgrade also, lol). Thx for showing. How did you connect the battery to the derailleurs? Did you need to drill a hole in the frame or could you use an existing one?
Yep! She’s 12 years old now. Cant believe how fast time flies 😅 The bike already had all the necessary holes but I did buy proprietary a di2 battery cover for my frame from BMC. I’m definitely not qualified to drill into any bike frame. That’s a job for the pros haha
Our dachshound reached 14, but i’ve met 18y olds aswell. They are though! At least, they think they are, lol. I am to scared to drill any holes in my bikes aswell, although it’s an alu one.. thx for the info!
Yep. I put a new Ultegra 11-34 cassette on the trainer. Unfortunately the 105 12 speed isn’t available yet. I would rather have used that since there’s no need for the lighter weight on the trainer.
What did you end up doing for the FD? For the life of me I can’t get it sorted. The hanger makes it next to impossible for me to fasten it at the angles needed to trim electronically
What was the issue with the front derailleur? How did you correct it? I have the exact same frame except fortunately mine came with Di2!! You need to come up to Atlanta in the spring and ride some HILLS/MOUNTAINS! Look up the ASSAULT on MARION or The ASSAULT on Mt. Mitchell. I'm doing the Marion one in May. It's going to be epic!
Nice! I think the braze on (I think that’s what it’s called)/connector on my frame is a bit askew so the front derailleur has an extremely narrow range where it’ll work without rubbing. I ended up taking it all off and tweaking it a few times before I finally got it dialed in. And of course, it could’ve been user error 🤷 I’m on the east coast a few times a year to visit family. Might need to tack on a trip to Atlanta sometime!
@@MitchBoyer Sorry watched your Keys century ride and thought Miami. Forgot you are a West Coaster! Better cycling weather but I'm guessing a LOT of cars.
Hi, they are not the same... The ports are a little different and the more important thing, the new calipers have more clearance for, in theory, avoid some noise issues with the discs... at least for me, they're working very well right now, 0 noises. Chears
Thanks for watching dude! In addition to to the functionality improvements Luke and Diego mentioned here, the calipers came with the set and were pre-filled with mineral oil. My old brake lines were already too short. I’d have to install new brake lines, so installing the new calibers was actually easier (and less messy) than trying to install new brake lines to the old calipers. And I’m lazy so I’ll always take the easier route 😅
Yep. The issue is that the front mount forces rear of the derailleur pushes too far out from the frame even when it’s in the position most near to the frame. Not sure if it is a bent mount-it doesn’t look that way. Luckily di2 allows for a ton of adjustment and I finally found an adjustment setting that works
Great idea. Unfortunately, I'm totally not qualified for it, lol. I upgraded from Ultegra to Ultegra, so I knew there was a pretty good chance it would be compatible. bettershifting.com/ is a really good resource if you're in the Shimano ecosystem.
Let's take the bottom bracket for example. To know which one fits, you need to identify two things: your frame's BB standard and your crankset spindle's diameter. In his case, his BMC is on BB86 and Shimano Hollowtech II cranksets use a 24 mm spindle, so his new BB needs to be a BB86 made for 24 mm spindles, commonly labeled as "for Shimano".
When you mounted the front deraileur did you install the little silver metal tab with the adhesive on one side? I bought my bike from a shop and it is missing! Now I'm a bit nervous to remove it and install.
Hi Marcus! First off, just a reminder that I'm not a mechanic, lol, but from what I understand, the tab is used to set the derailleur, and then it's not neeeded anymore. (It protects the carbon frame from a screw used in the installation). A lot of people will remove it after the initial installation process.
@@MitchBoyer I think we may be discussing different tabs. The one I'm talking about is between the frame and the derailleur so you wouldn't be able to access it after you mount it. It's basically a surface for the 2mm adjustment screw to torque into so to speak. I did talk with a mechanic friend and he said that most bike manafacturers are reinforcing that part of the bike and not to worry about it!
@@marcusvaldes yep, same tab :) I pealed it off the bike it of with a pick afterwards. Nice to hear most manufacturers are reinforcing that bit of the bike!
That tab remains installed permanently because the (old) FDs brace against it establishing offset and angle. There's a bolt pressing against it. 12s groupsets don't have it anymore.
The brakes come pre-filled with mineral oil so they don’t need a bleed, unless you spill a bunch of fluid during the install. So of course I spilled a bunch of fluid during the install 🤪-just with the front brake. Bleeding it wasn’t too bad, since the lines already had a bunch of fluid. And the rear brake didn’t need a bleed at all! Brakes feel nice and tight. I feel your pain, though, I bled my old brakes a few times and it was always super difficult, especially the first time.
Hi, i noticed the mechanical cables went through the downtube with two mini chimneys as the channel. However, after the Di2 was installed, it looks perfectly flat, is that a new cover? If so, where can I get it? Thanks
Originally, I ordered a BMC seatpost adapter on ebay, but it never came! So I took some bubblewrap and black electrical tape and wrapped it around the battery and shoved it into the seatpost. Super snug fit--my only concern is i'll never be able to remove it 😅
Why did you change the crankset set and BB? It was already ultegra. Even if you just wanted the new crankset your old BB would have worked unless it was creaking or something. Maybe you already touched on that and I just missed it.
I changed from a 50/34 to a 52/32 crankset because I wanted a little more at the top range for my sprint! I switched out the BB because I was switching everything else out, and I thought it'd be nice to have the bike feel brand new again :)
Hei, What gear ratio are you running? Any chain vibrating? I'm having 50-34/11-34 and on the smallest 3 spokes my chain goes crazy vibrating - in a sprint my feet's go numb.
Oh man that doesn’t sound good. I’m running 52-36/11-34. I haven’t gotten any chain rubbing, but I do get a clicking sound on the 5th cog sometimes, almost like it’s indexed incorrectly. I’ve tried re indexing and it persists. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ everything else is whisper quiet and I don’t get any vibrations.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 89 | คู่เอก "ยอดไอคิว vs คิริลล์"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Z3vYkHJ_5Ig/mqdefault.jpg)
Excellent work! Soon you’ll be rebuilding bikes just for fun on the weekend ;)
Also 60grams, definitely worth it ✊
And cheers for the plug!
Haha now I’ll always remember my first 60grams 🥲
Good one 😂
0.13 pounds. 2.12 oz. Not sure it’s a big savings there
@@dsonyay that's literally the joke
He was able to achieve the 60 gram savings once he removed the 2nd derailleur LINK that was left on 😂😂😂😂
I didn’t realize you’d have to remove the bottom bracket to fish the wires through. Tough job!!! You did awesome for a first time, it’s not as intimidating as I thought it would be.
Dude you really know how to do this youtube thing extremely well.
I'm only 34 seconds in so i cant say anything about the video.
Just wanted to tell you i'm a fan.
All the best from germany
Thanks for watching!
It’s weird how the first time doing this seems so intimidating, but then you realize it’s all just screws and 90% of the bike can be assembled with one Allen key.
no its weird how scary it is until its perfect even though everything is going perfectly well you are scared 100 precent of the time and for many rides after any problem will cause fear
Before removing your old group and installing the new 12s: Just remove the front derailler and install the new (tape the battery to the top tube and so on). Check whether it's able to shift (leave the chain in the middle at the back) reliably into the lower ring. The new 12s group is designed around a 1mm outboard setup and your frame could be outside tolerance. Most of the time you can work with a 1mm spacer (both sides of the crank!), but sometimes it doesn't work out and it would suck to reinstall everything.
Not having a speed link is kind of weird. The only real difficulty in doing things like upgrades, changes, and heavy maintenance is the tools (how often do you need a cable cutter or press-fit removal tool?). But once you have them, it's such a pleasure to work on your bike
Hi
A tip!
When removing the wires and breakcables, when everything else is removed, I always attache the old ones to the new ones with tape, barbwire(a string of steel wire fits breakcables perfect and hold them together!). Then pull every old out together with routing the new through the frame. That way you dont have to try rute it afterwards. 👌🏼
You are CRAZY and courageous… I would never try this at home, but I enjoyed every sec of your painful experience. Great video!
Haha thanks Luiz!
Well done on persevering mate. I would have given up at minute one 😂
Haha thanks Cam! There were definitely moments that had me questioning my sanity 😅
🤣
I admire your courage, but nothing about this video convinces me I should ever try this myself. Kudos to you, sir!
😂 consider it a cautionary tale!
Chapeau to you‼️ I’d never set a deadline like that (would remind me too much of writing a late-night term-paper due the next day!!!). I’m building a Dura-Ace version; wish me luck‼️🙏‼️
I loved your printing videos and I subscribed for that reason. To see you uploading videos about cycling, which I also love, made me stay for the ride!
Thanks for sticking around, Steven! Really appreciate it 🙌
Nice. I just did the same thing on my road bike this week - though I was changing from R8000 Ultegra with mechanical disks to 105 Di2 with hydraulic brakes. I was actually most worried about bleeding the hydraulic brakes, but despite having to cut the hoses to fit, the brakes worked without any sponginess right from the start - guess I was careful enough that I lost almost no brake fluid. With respect to the time issue, from my experience working against the clock basically never goes well. It always takes me quite a bit longer to do any work than I'd originally thought it would - and seemingly minor issues like your FD alignment problem are almost always the culprit for eating up huge amounts of time. Love my Di2 setup too, and can't wait to get out and get some real kms on it.
Feels incredibly accomplishing, doesn’t it!? 🎉
I love how you quote something, and my mind goes to the clip and then suddenly it cuts to the clip. very satisfying.
its the troubleshooting that usually takes time, effort and mental strength and im glad you held on and got it all fixed by yourself 👍
Great video! And nice to see a crossover with Rides of Japan, another favorite channel.
RoJ is the GOAT 🔥
I'm a bit late to the party but thats such an awesome feat! I started taking apart and building my bikes around the same time you posted this video and I know exactly how you feel!!
Scheduling a bike build into a tight full-time employed schedule and also getting all the right parts/tools is stressful enough in itself!!
After a wait, video didn't disappoint! 1:42 wait, you never broken/changed the chain before? 2:58 don't worry about the scratch. Gives it character
Yeah, I have about 5k miles on the original chain and was pretty meticulous with maintenance, so didn't need to replace it. What a way to learn!
@@MitchBoyer Dang, that’s some serious longevity. You ever consider waxing your chain?
@@blackfi12e622 the mild California weather helps I think. I've thought about waxing, but reapplying every couple of hundred miles seems like a pain to me. Maybe it's worth a shot, though!
Some day i'll hope trying to do a full maintenance of my bike for myself, disassembly everything... i'll take the risk like you do with this epic video! BRAVO! PD. And the new Ultegra is simply awesome...
Thanks for watching Diego! Send me the video if you do an epic build one day!
Hands down my favourite cycling and entertainment channel. 🎉
You are the Man!!! Brave Man! I just made the same upgrade on My Specialized Roubaix. I paid a pro to do it though. Definitely worth it.
Thanks for watching, dude!
Awesome job Mitch! I had a similar FD issue. I added a crank based power meter and well let’s just say after several hours I broke down and gave my LBS $10 to fix it! Well worth it though.
I feel your pain! Do you know what they did?
Same happened to me, changing a gossamer to 105 4iiii left. My LBS slightly moved the rotation of the front mech and a tweak to the tension and that was it. Funnily enough I took off the left side last Saturday and put it on my newer bike but with tiagra and didn’t want more hours fiddling to get it to shift to the top ring so that’s this weeks task. Amazing what a tiny difference in Q factor does (left crank is on so it can’t be anything else surely lol)
Yeah I am very friendly with a few of the guys there so they walked me through a few things while they fixed it. It was really helpful since I think I may be attempting a DI2 drivetrain upgrade myself soon.
@@MrLaddog Good luck!
Awesome video! Two questions, did you not have to bleed the brakes, and are that the ENVE Aero road handlebar? If so, how do you like them? Considering getting them myself.
Love the ENVE Aero handlebars-super stiff and comfortable too!
The brake caliber and cable comes prefilled with brake fluid, and the reservoir in the shifters is prefilled too. As long as you don’t lose any mineral oil during the install, they’re good to go out of the box. I lost a bit too much oil while installing the front brake and did need to bleed it a little bit. The rear brake was tight right off the bat, no bleeding necessary.
Wow! Great video - def. worth the wait.
Thanks, Nik! I've got another one on the way inspired by our chat the other day (slated for September) ✌️
Congrats, When I upgrade I will take everything to the shop FOREELS lol, thanks to the video!
great job on the upgrade and great job on the video, keep it up.
Thanks James!
I will build a road bike from scratch for the first time next week. My old bike still has downtube shifters so this will be fun.
Good luck!
Brilliant effort mate, really want to do this on mine 😊
Super impressed that you tackled this on your own without any prior experience. HOWEVER, I think you feeling it was "worth" the upgrade is more about confirmation bias than objective reality. Price and weight savings, this switch to Di2 is not worth it. As far as shifting and performance, still not worth it. I have mechanical Ultegra and Di2 as well and as someone who has been riding for 35+ years, I can say that Di2 is "NIce but unnecessary". It is simply the difference between "wants and needs" and you did not "need" to spend $2500 as it will not make any difference in how fast or far you can pedal that bike.
Thanks! Your opinion is totally fair and valid. I’m not racing or aiming for a world record, so to me it’s not really about performance. I’m just a dude who enjoys riding his bike. Whether it’s confirmation bias or not, I like the way it feels and sounds when it shifts. It brings a little smile to my face. Do I need it? No of course not. Do I enjoy it? 1000% yes. Will it get old one day and become normal? Also 1000% yes. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ it is what it is. Your description is spot on. Its “nice but unnecessary,” just like the rest of my bike :)
I don't know man. Have you ridden Di2? I've had Ultegra mechanical on past bikes and this is NEXT LEVEL NICE. Plus the buttons on the hoods underneath the tape to cycle through pages on your Garmin Edge--how cool is that??!! I'm sold.
Hello! You are awesome! I recently bought the same bike as yours and I really like it. Looking forward to more feedback on Di2
Thanks for watching dude! It's a great bike!
Seeing someone do this on a Roadmachine is helpful as i am contemplating the same.
Glad it was helpful! A year later, I’m still really glad I made the upgrade.
10 is for The 10 Commandments, but there was the 12 Tribes of Israel . Had 11 speed mechanical. Now have Dura Ace 12 speed & Ultegra 12speed both Electronic. Both sensational
Good effort, big fella 👍
Thank Mitch! Great video. I wish you showed how to fix the battery under the seat post though
I wrapped it with electrical tape and shoved it in the seat post 😅
@@MitchBoyer Amazing idea. Thank you man
It takes me rewatching a tutorial video 15 times before I even dare touch my bike
Good work man!! Great movie !!!
Very impressive job and video! For a guy with no experience, how did you have all the right tools, e.g. for the bb. Care to comment on sourcing them? Did you borrow, invest or get sponsorship?
When are you going to make a video about the kit you’ve had throughout your time as a cyclist
That’s a good idea! A progression of where I started up until now? Maybe I’ll add it into the Ultegra review. Not sure I wanna tally up the cost tho 😅
Maaaate! Just about to strip a bike to paint it. If it takes me that long, I'll consider that I was beaten.... Awesome content. 🙂
Good luck!
I respect you sir!! 🫡 nice job
Thanks dude 🫡
Great content! keep up the good work
Thanks Christian!
Did you have to break the chain? There wasn’t a link for adjusting?
Been there done that too, but I promise you, the 2nd time you're way faster 😅
@9:53 - What stand are you using?
this dude is actually hilarious lol... great video
Exactly how I learned to build bikes, have saved $ over 15 bikes later for me and my friends. You could have kept same BB btw.
4:56 She is going to the Cypress Park Home Depot with her bike?? Make sure you are quick in-and-out of the store.
I first thought you wanted to make the 8am Montrose ride with a newly assembled bike. 🙂 I always need to plan 1 trip to Incycle for "that washer" or something for any build. Overall this went pretty normal on time.
still waiting for that review!
Didn’t your chain have a master link?
THANKS TO YOU I WILL DEFINITELY STICK WITH MECHANICAL its worked for decades for me and l can fix it myself on da cheap especially since you guys will selling off all your old stuff off cheap :)
Great video! Only one way to learn I guess. I’m a bit more motivated to slowly upgrade my bike, but on bit of a budget
Its fun, but can get pricey real quick! Pro tip: start a TH-cam channel so you can recoup a little bit of the money... or maybe it'll result in you spending more... like some unnamed people... 😅😂
@@MitchBoyer “No, honey, it’s really more of a business investment…”
@@coreyreeder3549 😂😂
I am even scared to (slightly) modify the dealer's setup when I bought the bike.
Everytime I look at my bike "The bike is good, but it can be better"
Planning to go the same route with practically the same bike (2020 RoadMachine). Did you need new (different) cable guides under the bottom bracket & on the downtube? Nice & very helpful vid! Thanks
Yep new cables, I bought the new calipers and they came with cables attached (and filled w oil!) good luck with your install!
You installed a new bottom bracket, was it necessary? Or you could just put the old one back?
It's been more than 3 weeks, why haven't you done a long term review?
Hi! To be honest, it got pushed back a bunch of times due to getting covid, my honeymoon, and the steepest streets videos. It'll be up mid-January, though! I can give you the quick version now: I still love it. The magic has worn off a bit, and it almost feels normal, but I still really appreciate it when shifting under load--going up hill or in a sprint.
Such a good video good job!
Please no more Home Depot rides 😜❤️
I cant promise anything sorrryyyyyyyyyy not sorrryyyy
@@valerieen fair fair
That was much smoother than I thought. You could’ve saved some time by not sleeping… jokes aside, the only big time saving potential was just to use your old cables to route your new ones, would’ve saved half an hour
Haha, thanks Luke!
yeah for some reason my first lesson from doing your own mechanical stuff is that front derailleurs are a bitch... so I feel you
What was the price of complete groupset you bought?
What was the problem with the front derailleur ..
In the end how did you work around the front derailleur? My frame also doesn't allow me to install the derailleur in spec according to the diagram.
You are a brave, brave man to do it yourself. At least ultegra di2 disc has no cables for the shifters, just the brakes. Did the brakes require bleeding?
Thanks, James! Having only brake cables to route through the handlebars made it so much easier. The brakes came pre-liked with mineral oil so as long as you don’t lose a bunch during the install they’re good to go without a bleed. Of course, I lost a bunch of mineral oil while installing the front brake so I still needed to bleed that one 😅
I remember scratching my frame just installing a bottle cage.
The pain!
Hey mate this video was very informative, thank you! Definitely gives me the confidence to have a go myself. I was just wondering, is it necessary to replace the bottom bracket moving from 11 to 12 speed ultegra? I can see you changed yours, but I was under the impression this isnt necessary.
The Shimano BB are the same for 9 speed - 12 speed cranksets. However, Shimano does state that once a press fit BB is hammered out, it should not be re-used. Personally, I have re-installed my PF BB a few times and I did not notice any performance loss or creaks.
@@downinla4076 Just another reason to dislike press fit BBs. For me, they'd be a dealbreaker - I'd absolutely refuse to buy a bike or frame without a threaded BB.
Nice upgrade and a big job that requires good skills and knowledge
At least if you have any mechanicals you have the new knowledge to fix them in the future
My titanium mechanical long distance road bike is 8.3kg
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Thanks for watching! Jealous of your long distance set-up!
I’m actually buying parts for a new bike now. I would LOVE to DIY my build, but I’m lacking in the tools department.
It also sucks that the shops charge $200-$350 to build 🤯
Is your dog a dachshound? Love those! (And love the upgrade also, lol). Thx for showing. How did you connect the battery to the derailleurs? Did you need to drill a hole in the frame or could you use an existing one?
Yep! She’s 12 years old now. Cant believe how fast time flies 😅 The bike already had all the necessary holes but I did buy proprietary a di2 battery cover for my frame from BMC. I’m definitely not qualified to drill into any bike frame. That’s a job for the pros haha
Our dachshound reached 14, but i’ve met 18y olds aswell. They are though! At least, they think they are, lol. I am to scared to drill any holes in my bikes aswell, although it’s an alu one.. thx for the info!
Hi Mitch! Did you have to buy a new cassette for your trainer as well when you upgraded to the Di2?
Yep. I put a new Ultegra 11-34 cassette on the trainer. Unfortunately the 105 12 speed isn’t available yet. I would rather have used that since there’s no need for the lighter weight on the trainer.
I wanted to see running the wires and mounting the battery pack
gplama has an in depth tutorial series you’ll probably find useful!
What did you end up doing for the FD? For the life of me I can’t get it sorted. The hanger makes it next to impossible for me to fasten it at the angles needed to trim electronically
I'm not the OP, but you can file the washer.
Had to replace the suport with a new one? Can it stay old?
What was the issue with the front derailleur? How did you correct it? I have the exact same frame except fortunately mine came with Di2!! You need to come up to Atlanta in the spring and ride some HILLS/MOUNTAINS! Look up the ASSAULT on MARION or The ASSAULT on Mt. Mitchell. I'm doing the Marion one in May. It's going to be epic!
Nice! I think the braze on (I think that’s what it’s called)/connector on my frame is a bit askew so the front derailleur has an extremely narrow range where it’ll work without rubbing. I ended up taking it all off and tweaking it a few times before I finally got it dialed in. And of course, it could’ve been user error 🤷
I’m on the east coast a few times a year to visit family. Might need to tack on a trip to Atlanta sometime!
@@MitchBoyer Sorry watched your Keys century ride and thought Miami. Forgot you are a West Coaster! Better cycling weather but I'm guessing a LOT of cars.
@@marcusvaldes no worries at all Marcus ✌️
You can file the FD's washer to modify the angle a bit. ;-)
Wow….impressive 👍🏿
Why did you install new brake calipers? They are the same aren't they?
no the new 12 speed has new brakes, which have larger gaps to prevent rotor rub. it's the best part of the 12 speed upgrade
Hi, they are not the same... The ports are a little different and the more important thing, the new calipers have more clearance for, in theory, avoid some noise issues with the discs... at least for me, they're working very well right now, 0 noises. Chears
Thanks for watching dude! In addition to to the functionality improvements Luke and Diego mentioned here, the calipers came with the set and were pre-filled with mineral oil. My old brake lines were already too short. I’d have to install new brake lines, so installing the new calibers was actually easier (and less messy) than trying to install new brake lines to the old calipers. And I’m lazy so I’ll always take the easier route 😅
Ah cool, thanks!
Did you use the grub screw to adjust the toe in/out that butts to the frame .
Yep. The issue is that the front mount forces rear of the derailleur pushes too far out from the frame even when it’s in the position most near to the frame. Not sure if it is a bent mount-it doesn’t look that way. Luckily di2 allows for a ton of adjustment and I finally found an adjustment setting that works
Any advice or maybe a good video topic. How do you know which components or drive system might be compatible with your current bike?
Great idea. Unfortunately, I'm totally not qualified for it, lol. I upgraded from Ultegra to Ultegra, so I knew there was a pretty good chance it would be compatible. bettershifting.com/ is a really good resource if you're in the Shimano ecosystem.
Let's take the bottom bracket for example. To know which one fits, you need to identify two things: your frame's BB standard and your crankset spindle's diameter.
In his case, his BMC is on BB86 and Shimano Hollowtech II cranksets use a 24 mm spindle, so his new BB needs to be a BB86 made for 24 mm spindles, commonly labeled as "for Shimano".
Hi, did you end up changing the front derailleur hanger?
Hi! I messed around with it for an afternoon and finally got it into a position where it worked.
How much it cost to replacw groupset in your area?
When you mounted the front deraileur did you install the little silver metal tab with the adhesive on one side? I bought my bike from a shop and it is missing! Now I'm a bit nervous to remove it and install.
Hi Marcus! First off, just a reminder that I'm not a mechanic, lol, but from what I understand, the tab is used to set the derailleur, and then it's not neeeded anymore. (It protects the carbon frame from a screw used in the installation). A lot of people will remove it after the initial installation process.
@@MitchBoyer I think we may be discussing different tabs. The one I'm talking about is between the frame and the derailleur so you wouldn't be able to access it after you mount it. It's basically a surface for the 2mm adjustment screw to torque into so to speak. I did talk with a mechanic friend and he said that most bike manafacturers are reinforcing that part of the bike and not to worry about it!
@@marcusvaldes yep, same tab :) I pealed it off the bike it of with a pick afterwards. Nice to hear most manufacturers are reinforcing that bit of the bike!
That tab remains installed permanently because the (old) FDs brace against it establishing offset and angle. There's a bolt pressing against it. 12s groupsets don't have it anymore.
@@MitchBoyerif people remove them after they absolutely should not work on bikes
Curious why you went Shimano Di2 vs SRAM ETAP?
no real reason, I just like shimano 🙃
wow, you did not have problems with bleeding the system? i tried it so many times, and i finaly know how to do it, after 5 fails
The brakes come pre-filled with mineral oil so they don’t need a bleed, unless you spill a bunch of fluid during the install. So of course I spilled a bunch of fluid during the install 🤪-just with the front brake. Bleeding it wasn’t too bad, since the lines already had a bunch of fluid. And the rear brake didn’t need a bleed at all! Brakes feel nice and tight.
I feel your pain, though, I bled my old brakes a few times and it was always super difficult, especially the first time.
Hi, i noticed the mechanical cables went through the downtube with two mini chimneys as the channel. However, after the Di2 was installed, it looks perfectly flat, is that a new cover? If so, where can I get it?
Thanks
Hi, I found a Roadmachine Di2 cable conversion kit on eBay. I don't recall the exact name, but it should pop up with a quick search!
Hi, I found a Roadmachine Di2 cable conversion kit on eBay. I don't recall the exact name, but it should pop up with a quick search!
Hi, I found a Roadmachine Di2 cable conversion kit on eBay. I don't recall the exact name, but it should pop up with a quick search!
Hello, how many links in your chain?
Soo is your old ultegra groupy for sale?? Lol.
PS.. I have the exact same bike in Black with 105. Love the bike. Great vid!
It’s a fantastic bike! Not sure what I’m gonna do with the old groupset yet :)
Looks like the frame moulding where the braze on FD hanger goes is borked…
That might might be the issue :/
so where did you place the battery in the frame?
Seatpost-I ended up wrapping the end with some electrical tape and shoving it in until it was stuck 😅😂
great work
What about the freehub did change it? TIA!
Nope just used the same freehub! Standard HG shimano style.
where did you bought the groupset?
I bought pieces from a bunch of places. Mostly Colorado Cyclist, Performance Bikes, and Backcountry dot com
Mitch I am curious what you used to hold the di2 battery in the seatpost?
Originally, I ordered a BMC seatpost adapter on ebay, but it never came! So I took some bubblewrap and black electrical tape and wrapped it around the battery and shoved it into the seatpost. Super snug fit--my only concern is i'll never be able to remove it 😅
@@MitchBoyer lol…love the ingenuity! Thanks for sharing.
@@MrLaddog haha no problem! Are you upgrading?
I'm considering upgrading to di2, where did you purchase your group set from?
I got bits and pieces from a few different shops. Most of it came from Excel Sports and Colorado Cyclist
@@MitchBoyer awesome, thanks for the info. If you ever see a blue canyon aeroad riding up and down GP, that's me ✌️
@@mrmarky624 I’ll keep an eye out for ya! Thanks for watching dude 🙌
Ship those old ones my way😅 desperately needed
Why did you change the crankset set and BB? It was already ultegra. Even if you just wanted the new crankset your old BB would have worked unless it was creaking or something. Maybe you already touched on that and I just missed it.
I changed from a 50/34 to a 52/32 crankset because I wanted a little more at the top range for my sprint! I switched out the BB because I was switching everything else out, and I thought it'd be nice to have the bike feel brand new again :)
idk if it is toolate but did you sell your old ultegra groupset?
I put it on my wife's bike :)
Hei,
What gear ratio are you running? Any chain vibrating?
I'm having 50-34/11-34 and on the smallest 3 spokes my chain goes crazy vibrating - in a sprint my feet's go numb.
Oh man that doesn’t sound good. I’m running 52-36/11-34. I haven’t gotten any chain rubbing, but I do get a clicking sound on the 5th cog sometimes, almost like it’s indexed incorrectly. I’ve tried re indexing and it persists. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ everything else is whisper quiet and I don’t get any vibrations.
@@MitchBoyer lucky you! enjoy it! :)
what's the app called
Fair play.
What is the black thing sticking up out of the bottom bracket area?
It’s a chain catcher (to prevent dropped chains from scratching the frame). As you can see, it didn’t always do its job 😂🥲
Dude< I would never let you near my bike.. There's a reason we have bike mechanics. LOL
Lol good call
can i buy youre old Ultegra set plss