I blow at least one roll pin a year on my 1811. I just keep a bag of them on hand. Saw a tip someplace that suggests running a stiff wire through the pin and around the shaft to keep it in place.
In the early 1980s, International Harvester built the Cub Cadets. When they sold the manufacturing to MTD in the mid 1980's they built the red tractors for sale at IH dealers. The white/Yellow tractors were built for sale by the MTD/Cub Cadet dealers. The machines are otherwise virtually identical.
Did you check the armature in that 1811 pto clutch? I am sure that is what is wrong with it I am a small engine mechanic. If it turns off after so many minutes it is probably the armatures in the pto clutch losing connection. Also bolts in the drive shaft will wobble out the holes in the shaft. Great video btw
Thanks for the comments and advice! Yes, I found that out about the bolts in the driveshaft. I have a problem with the 1811 now because of the wobble. The flex connector bolt head cut into one of the hydraulic deck lift lines. But, I got so frustrated with roll pins breaking constantly (even the ones I got from the dealer) that I tried the bolts. On the 1810, I've been having problems with the PTO. I'm getting some kind of resistance when I keep the PTO switch on. I've melted two wire harness caps at the relay if I keep it running for any length of time. And, then, of course, the fuse blows. I want to try one more thing with it before giving up on it as a mower. A PTO clutch costs $250 to replace - far to much to spend on an old mower. I got a regular 12v switch and I want to bypass to whole relay safety assembly. I'll run a new line from the battery to the switch and a new line to the clutch to see if that solves the problem. If not, the 1810 will just be a tractor, but not a mower.
Country Living on a Shoestring ok honestly it sounds like one of the safety switches are going bad I would try and bypass the safety switches if that doesn’t help the next thing is it sounds like the relay is going out on it here is the part number for the relay 925-0894 those old cubs I wouldn’t give up on it I just finally got a 1989 cub cadet 1811 and I’ve been wanting one for awhile. I actually collect these old cubs and fix them up that’s all I work on. If you need any diagrams or any help with fixing either of them I would be more than happy to help you any way I can. The hydraulic line you should be able to get any good hydraulic shop to make one. On those old cubs there is a flange at the front of the motor that has a ball bushing/bearing in and sometimes they fall out all it is is a plate. The flex discs are pretty cheap new along with the plate I had to do it a couple times and it’s a lot easier than it looks.
@@zacharycoslic1274 Thanks for the tips and the offer for help in the future. I'd like to keep at least one of the Cubs running. I bought the 1810 last year so that I could have switchable parts between the two. On the 1810 pto problem, I've already switched out the relay with the 1811 and still have the problem. The safety switches had been disconnected before I got the 1810 - the deck runs with the tractor in reverse and without me on the seat. That's OK with me. The part of the relay plug that has melted twice for me now is at the black wire. I bought just a basic switch and plan to bypass the whole thing if possible - run a wire from the battery to the new switch and then on to the PTO clutch. If the wire burns out, then I guess I either have short in the clutch or have massive resistance happening somewhere in it. As I said, if I can't fix the problem cheaply, I can still use the 1810 as a tractor, if not a mower. I do a lot of hauling with a 17 cu. ft. dump cart, so it will get used all year long. I would just have to find a different mower of some kind.
you cant use a bolt in the drive line. they will not hold for some reason. the roll pin also is not a regular roll pin, it is what they call a spirol pin which is multi layered, they are available online. if you want to learn more there is a great cub forum called, Only Cub Cadets . com
Thanks for the tip. I tried the grade 8 bolt after the roll pins I got from my Cub dealer kept breaking. I also tried doubling the roll pins (smaller inside a larger) to make them stronger, but they even broke. I'll check out the spirol pins.
My deck is the same it’s the bagging deck I ndoi g a deck swap this weekend we have four cub cadets one is hardly used but I am swapping the deck for my 1811 and then I’m going to plow snow with it cuz it has hydro lift also they are opposed twin engines not v twins
Theres a guy on "www.onlycubcadets.net" that sells complete wiring harness for these old tractors. He may not have your particular model made up, as he's mostly into IH and the older models, but it can be ordered and he'll make it up. He supplies everything in the kit, and it'll be "plus and play". Screw tracking that down since you've spent so long on it. The time you've wasted is worth the cost. Just get a complete harness and be done with it. Pretty reasonable too.
Hi, thanks for the question. But, I'm not sure. I never changed the belts on the 1810. I don't know if they are the same size as the 1811. And, I don't know if the deck will determine the size of the PTO belt. I had 2 different size decks on the1810 and 1811. As far as where to get them, Tractor Supply has some of the needed belts. And, Amazon also sells a large variety. If all else fails, your local Cub Cadet dealer should be able to tell you the needed sizes.
I own a 1984 782 d diesel cub cadet I love it a great lawn mower
I've heard the diesels are good tractors.
I blow at least one roll pin a year on my 1811. I just keep a bag of them on hand. Saw a tip someplace that suggests running a stiff wire through the pin and around the shaft to keep it in place.
what size belt does this 1811 mower take
Nice machines!
So these are the replacement of the red 782/682 tractors?
Not sure. A 1987 Cub 1211 was my first Cub. These I bought used, so I don't know what came before them.
In the early 1980s, International Harvester built the Cub Cadets. When they sold the manufacturing to MTD in the mid 1980's they built the red tractors for sale at IH dealers. The white/Yellow tractors were built for sale by the MTD/Cub Cadet dealers. The machines are otherwise virtually identical.
Did you check the armature in that 1811 pto clutch? I am sure that is what is wrong with it I am a small engine mechanic. If it turns off after so many minutes it is probably the armatures in the pto clutch losing connection. Also bolts in the drive shaft will wobble out the holes in the shaft. Great video btw
Thanks for the comments and advice! Yes, I found that out about the bolts in the driveshaft. I have a problem with the 1811 now because of the wobble. The flex connector bolt head cut into one of the hydraulic deck lift lines. But, I got so frustrated with roll pins breaking constantly (even the ones I got from the dealer) that I tried the bolts. On the 1810, I've been having problems with the PTO. I'm getting some kind of resistance when I keep the PTO switch on. I've melted two wire harness caps at the relay if I keep it running for any length of time. And, then, of course, the fuse blows. I want to try one more thing with it before giving up on it as a mower. A PTO clutch costs $250 to replace - far to much to spend on an old mower. I got a regular 12v switch and I want to bypass to whole relay safety assembly. I'll run a new line from the battery to the switch and a new line to the clutch to see if that solves the problem. If not, the 1810 will just be a tractor, but not a mower.
Country Living on a Shoestring ok honestly it sounds like one of the safety switches are going bad I would try and bypass the safety switches if that doesn’t help the next thing is it sounds like the relay is going out on it here is the part number for the relay 925-0894 those old cubs I wouldn’t give up on it I just finally got a 1989 cub cadet 1811 and I’ve been wanting one for awhile. I actually collect these old cubs and fix them up that’s all I work on. If you need any diagrams or any help with fixing either of them I would be more than happy to help you any way I can. The hydraulic line you should be able to get any good hydraulic shop to make one. On those old cubs there is a flange at the front of the motor that has a ball bushing/bearing in and sometimes they fall out all it is is a plate. The flex discs are pretty cheap new along with the plate I had to do it a couple times and it’s a lot easier than it looks.
@@zacharycoslic1274 Thanks for the tips and the offer for help in the future. I'd like to keep at least one of the Cubs running. I bought the 1810 last year so that I could have switchable parts between the two. On the 1810 pto problem, I've already switched out the relay with the 1811 and still have the problem. The safety switches had been disconnected before I got the 1810 - the deck runs with the tractor in reverse and without me on the seat. That's OK with me. The part of the relay plug that has melted twice for me now is at the black wire. I bought just a basic switch and plan to bypass the whole thing if possible - run a wire from the battery to the new switch and then on to the PTO clutch. If the wire burns out, then I guess I either have short in the clutch or have massive resistance happening somewhere in it. As I said, if I can't fix the problem cheaply, I can still use the 1810 as a tractor, if not a mower. I do a lot of hauling with a 17 cu. ft. dump cart, so it will get used all year long. I would just have to find a different mower of some kind.
you cant use a bolt in the drive line. they will not hold for some reason. the roll pin also is not a regular roll pin, it is what they call a spirol pin which is multi layered, they are available online. if you want to learn more there is a great cub forum called, Only Cub Cadets . com
Thanks for the tip. I tried the grade 8 bolt after the roll pins I got from my Cub dealer kept breaking. I also tried doubling the roll pins (smaller inside a larger) to make them stronger, but they even broke. I'll check out the spirol pins.
My deck is the same it’s the bagging deck I ndoi g a deck swap this weekend we have four cub cadets one is hardly used but I am swapping the deck for my 1811 and then I’m going to plow snow with it cuz it has hydro lift also they are opposed twin engines not v twins
Theres a guy on "www.onlycubcadets.net" that sells complete wiring harness for these old tractors. He may not have your particular model made up, as he's mostly into IH and the older models, but it can be ordered and he'll make it up. He supplies everything in the kit, and it'll be "plus and play". Screw tracking that down since you've spent so long on it. The time you've wasted is worth the cost. Just get a complete harness and be done with it. Pretty reasonable too.
www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=34457&highlight=wiring+harness that guy....Looked it up for ya..
@@MirroringTruth Thanks so much for the info! I'll have to look into it.
What size Belt is the 1810 ? PTO Clutch Belt. Were to buy one? Thanks..
Hi, thanks for the question. But, I'm not sure. I never changed the belts on the 1810. I don't know if they are the same size as the 1811. And, I don't know if the deck will determine the size of the PTO belt. I had 2 different size decks on the1810 and 1811. As far as where to get them, Tractor Supply has some of the needed belts. And, Amazon also sells a large variety. If all else fails, your local Cub Cadet dealer should be able to tell you the needed sizes.