I did this same thing in my add on shed shop, but Joe Davis who commented earlier is correct in advising that none of your air vents on the top or side should be covered and that a true "through the wall" A/C unit is the correct unit to use, not the "through the window" unit you used. The true "through the wall" units have more space between the vents and the front of the unit to accommodate for wall thickness and are not vented on the top as "through the window" units are. Through the wall units cost about double what the through the window units do and are more difficult to find in stores today since window units are much easier to install. Having said that I also used a through the window unit in my shed and installed it through the wall. Fortunately I was wise enough to install it in such a way as to not block any of the vents. Even partially blocking the vents will cause the A/C to work harder and fail sooner, so you may want to go back and readjust this unit.I pushed my unit out enough so the vents weren't blocked and made a bracket to support the unit outside.It just barely fits ! The unit is also suppose to be slightly tilted toward the outside for proper drainage of the condensation, so it's a good idea to make the installation opening slightly larger so this can be accomplished. I too am building a roof cover over the unit as you did, being sure to allow adequate space for the A/C unit to vent on the sides and top ! I applaud you for learning to be so handy by doing things yourself, as far too many young men and women today just don't want to learn to do anything mechanical , but in this case you probably should have done a little more YouTubing to learn before proceeding.
Thank you for the good info! I have seen those brackets that hold through the wall units. I bet that would work on this through the window unit. So far I have not used the unit much. This past year did not have much issue with mold and moisture. I installed a solar powered fan in the attic space and that has really taken the head out of the shop. The unit does tilt out and down. That is at least one thing that I did right. I have been slowly learning to do a few things. I have very little training. There is only so much youtubing that you can do before you have no time left and must move on to the next project.
You don't have to use a through the wall, many of the window units are deep enough that the fins are nowhere close to the outer wall. You just have to check measurements. If you only look for through wall, you'll find they are often very expensive with very little selection.
I'm enjoying your videos, keep them coming. Should you have a reason to re-do it in the future, I'd suggest that you take out the custom buck that resized the rough opening and then you can try using the unit's included window frame kit to fit in the rough opening, or mounting the unit into a piece of plywood and then installing that in your rough opening. that should correct the efficiency loss from the side vents being about half covered and make your shop much cooler in the summer.
Its an easy fix to install and not block the vents. Remove the l bracket on top snd slide the ac unit furthe to the outside. Till just the face is sitting proud of the inside drywall. To keep it from fslling out when cutting the outside hole leave the plywood sheathing higher by about 5/8 to 3/4 inch above the 2x4 bottom frame so the ac feet will catch on it. Then block the top on the inside so you get the right slope. On a 2x4 wall you should have clest sir flow on the vents. Might not work on a 2x6 wall.
IMO that's too small an AC for through wall, you want one long enough to where the fins on the side aren't obstructed by the wall. I also highly recommend the dual inverter units. LG makes some in various sizes, whisper quiet and super efficient! I also like to use spray foam myself for filling gaps, and then caulking everything up before painting.
Nice job ceiling and framing the unit sleeve only problem you have the wrong kind of air conditioner that's a window unit not a through the wall unit the big difference between the two is a through the wall unit the vents are on the back not the side.
I really have learned a lot over the past year. Building this shop has been very rewarding. A little help would have been nice on some parts. Well I was given around $1200 worth of plywood and 2x6's. All in all I would say the cost is around $4500. There were some buildings at a local store that were $3500 for a 10x16. So I figure I am doing well!
Ouch, hey TH-camrs make sure all the rear vents are exposed completely, the MFR. Does not recommend this Type of installation. Half of the side vents are covered. The MFR says that's a no no. This is not meant to be critical of the young man. Just want to let people know so that there are no issues with the AC's you all install.
*IMPORTANT NOTE:* *Window* air conditioners are not designed for in-wall installation. As you can see here in this video [10:23], window AC units have vents *on the side.* As such, when you install a window AC unit into the wall, on many units at least half of the AC unit *side* vents is within wall space (are covered up by the wall) and cannot vent properly. Only half of the vents protrude far enough past the outside wall to be able to vent properly, and this can reduce the efficiency of the AC motor and/or reduce the life of the unit. ***** THEREFORE, install at your own risk. ***** Can you still install it this way? Sure, plenty of people do it and it works out ok. But, the manufacturer did put those vents there for a reason. *In-wall* air conditioners (AC units designed for in-wall installation) do not have side vents, and all of the venting is done through the back of the unit.
Time and time again I watch you want to be professionals on TH-cam install A/C units like this and it is WRONG!! I hope people watching DO NOT install like this!! You CANNOT obstruct ANY of the outside casing vents by any means what so ever, PERIOD!! You need to buy a TRUE through wall A/C Unit. The casing is different for the ventilation!!
Joe, with all due respect, shut the fuck up. Are you the TH-cam trades police here or what? How about you do things "this old house" style and leave the rest of us who can't afford everything we do to be done the expensive way alone to share and learn from each other? If I had a dime for every dickhead gatekeeping professional making comments like this on TH-cam I'd have the money to do everything the "right way."
You are wrong - wrong. On many of the window ac units the space between the start of the side vents and inside edge of the sheetrock inside is about 5 inches (the thickness of the wall) so no vents are blocked. Just installed one like this. On larger units the space is a lot bigger, but worked on my 6000 btu unit.
![เปิด อาณาจักร หมื่นล้าน "สาระตั้ม" l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3XE0nPF4YkQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I did this same thing in my add on shed shop, but Joe Davis who commented earlier is correct in advising that none of your air vents on the top or side should be covered and that a true "through the wall" A/C unit is the correct unit to use, not the "through the window" unit you used. The true "through the wall" units have more space between the vents and the front of the unit to accommodate for wall thickness and are not vented on the top as "through the window" units are. Through the wall units cost about double what the through the window units do and are more difficult to find in stores today since window units are much easier to install. Having said that I also used a through the window unit in my shed and installed it through the wall. Fortunately I was wise enough to install it in such a way as to not block any of the vents. Even partially blocking the vents will cause the A/C to work harder and fail sooner, so you may want to go back and readjust this unit.I pushed my unit out enough so the vents weren't blocked and made a bracket to support the unit outside.It just barely fits ! The unit is also suppose to be slightly tilted toward the outside for proper drainage of the condensation, so it's a good idea to make the installation opening slightly larger so this can be accomplished. I too am building a roof cover over the unit as you did, being sure to allow adequate space for the A/C unit to vent on the sides and top ! I applaud you for learning to be so handy by doing things yourself, as far too many young men and women today just don't want to learn to do anything mechanical , but in this case you probably should have done a little more YouTubing to learn before proceeding.
Thank you for the good info! I have seen those brackets that hold through the wall units. I bet that would work on this through the window unit. So far I have not used the unit much. This past year did not have much issue with mold and moisture. I installed a solar powered fan in the attic space and that has really taken the head out of the shop. The unit does tilt out and down. That is at least one thing that I did right.
I have been slowly learning to do a few things. I have very little training. There is only so much youtubing that you can do before you have no time left and must move on to the next project.
Agree!
You don't have to use a through the wall, many of the window units are deep enough that the fins are nowhere close to the outer wall. You just have to check measurements. If you only look for through wall, you'll find they are often very expensive with very little selection.
I'm enjoying your videos, keep them coming.
Should you have a reason to re-do it in the future, I'd suggest that you take out the custom buck that resized the rough opening and then you can try using the unit's included window frame kit to fit in the rough opening, or mounting the unit into a piece of plywood and then installing that in your rough opening. that should correct the efficiency loss from the side vents being about half covered and make your shop much cooler in the summer.
Thanks very much, nice video, thumbs up!!!
This prepared me for doing the same exact job tomorrow.
Its an easy fix to install and not block the vents. Remove the l bracket on top snd slide the ac unit furthe to the outside. Till just the face is sitting proud of the inside drywall. To keep it from fslling out when cutting the outside hole leave the plywood sheathing higher by about 5/8 to 3/4 inch above the 2x4 bottom frame so the ac feet will catch on it. Then block the top on the inside so you get the right slope. On a 2x4 wall you should have clest sir flow on the vents. Might not work on a 2x6 wall.
I love this I’m going to use this instead of covering the whole window with a piece of wood like I’ve been doing for I’d say over 30 years.
It looks nice.
IMO that's too small an AC for through wall, you want one long enough to where the fins on the side aren't obstructed by the wall. I also highly recommend the dual inverter units. LG makes some in various sizes, whisper quiet and super efficient! I also like to use spray foam myself for filling gaps, and then caulking everything up before painting.
So are those wall studs spaced more than 16" apart? Because you said the AC unit was more than 16" wide.
Did you tilt it any so the water can drip out? Every time I have ever made a perfect hole for an ac, the next one won’t fit.🤨
The Amazon link for that ac no longer works, what brand and model was it and how has it worked out?
Nice job ceiling and framing the unit sleeve only problem you have the wrong kind of air conditioner that's a window unit not a through the wall unit the big difference between the two is a through the wall unit the vents are on the back not the side.
You’re blocking the side vents, you should open the exterior up a couple inches in order for the ac to breathe.
Open up the exterior?
@@SiBorg8A the opening should be a few inches bigger and scales behind the vents.
Sealed not scales.
5:30 :Table saw and pushing lumber with fingers? NO, NO NO! Push it thru with a scrap piece of wood.
looks like an artic king.. use pl premium instead of the liquid nails.. hard as a rock.. then you'll never get it out..
i love that you do all the work yourself.
how much did it cost so far? round figure is fine also..
I really have learned a lot over the past year. Building this shop has been very rewarding. A little help would have been nice on some parts. Well I was given around $1200 worth of plywood and 2x6's. All in all I would say the cost is around $4500. There were some buildings at a local store that were $3500 for a 10x16. So I figure I am doing well!
How about something to reduce vibration?
Measure twice and cut once. 😁
How well does it work with the outer vents blocked?
It has been fine. I only use it a few times a year. Today its 55 degrees in the middle of June. . . .
Ouch, hey TH-camrs make sure all the rear vents are exposed completely, the MFR. Does not recommend this Type of installation. Half of the side vents are covered. The MFR says that's a no no. This is not meant to be critical of the young man. Just want to let people know so that there are no issues with the AC's you all install.
Through the wall air is so much more expensive than a window unit.
Wonder if putting in a window would be cheaper to do first,
Why isint it turning on
Como lo reparo t
*IMPORTANT NOTE:* *Window* air conditioners are not designed for in-wall installation. As you can see here in this video [10:23], window AC units have vents *on the side.* As such, when you install a window AC unit into the wall, on many units at least half of the AC unit *side* vents is within wall space (are covered up by the wall) and cannot vent properly. Only half of the vents protrude far enough past the outside wall to be able to vent properly, and this can reduce the efficiency of the AC motor and/or reduce the life of the unit.
***** THEREFORE, install at your own risk. ***** Can you still install it this way? Sure, plenty of people do it and it works out ok. But, the manufacturer did put those vents there for a reason.
*In-wall* air conditioners (AC units designed for in-wall installation) do not have side vents, and all of the venting is done through the back of the unit.
7:01...that's what she said
That is a window AC, now when you need to replace it you will have to rip out all your nice trim.
Time and time again I watch you want to be professionals on TH-cam install A/C units like this and it is WRONG!! I hope people watching DO NOT install like this!! You CANNOT obstruct ANY of the outside casing vents by any means what so ever, PERIOD!! You need to buy a TRUE through wall A/C Unit. The casing is different for the ventilation!!
Did I come off as professional sounding? My mistake. I am just a homeowner.
Lol man thank you. I been real close to fucking shit up.
What will happen? For us dummies who know no better?
Need to chill a bit Joe. Not like the house is going to fall apart. Geeezzzz...
Joe, with all due respect, shut the fuck up. Are you the TH-cam trades police here or what?
How about you do things "this old house" style and leave the rest of us who can't afford everything we do to be done the expensive way alone to share and learn from each other?
If I had a dime for every dickhead gatekeeping professional making comments like this on TH-cam I'd have the money to do everything the "right way."
Wrong...??????? That's a window ac not a wall true. ........100x100 Wrong. Wrong. Chech my videos men .
You are wrong - wrong. On many of the window ac units the space between the start of the side vents and inside edge of the sheetrock inside is
about 5 inches (the thickness of the wall) so no vents are blocked. Just installed one like this. On larger units the space is a lot bigger, but worked on my 6000 btu unit.