Cutting Sash with a Stanley No.45
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ต.ค. 2024
- Cutting sash using the Stanley No.45 isn't that easy in my experience. Clean, straight grain lumber is a must, and even then, the width of cut, together with the low mass of the plane, make good results with speedy progress difficult.
In this video, I'll show you how to set the plane up, and demonstrate running a length of sash. I take fairly heavy cuts to speed the work along, reducing the cut at the end, and finishing with a bench plane and shoulder plane, for a satisfactory finish.
This is one operation, that despite the dust and noise, I would turn to the router table!
Check out my other videos on using this versatile combination plane.
My Stanley No.45 Playlist:
• Living with a Stanley ...
FindMyTool:
www.findmytool....
www.findmytool....
Check out my other TH-cam channel 'Get Into Woodworking':
/ @getintowoodwork
Check out my website for further woodworking information: www.WOmadeOD.co.uk
Follow me on social media under 'womadeod' & 'cre8'
Instagram:
/ mitch_peacock_womadeod
Twitter:
/ womadeod
Google+:
google.com/+Mit...
Facebook pages:
/ womadeod
/ mitchcre8s
Instructables:
www.instructabl...
Support me on Patreon:
/ womadeod
Etsy shop 'Tree2Gift'
www.etsy.com/u... - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Rebuilding a window that someone destroyed breaking into my house. I used the sash cutter on my 45 to make about 8 feet of sash for the 6 light window. The 45 really made quick work of making the sticks. Fitting them together, however was rather time consuming.
I can imagine, satisfying though. Hope you don't have another break-in.
That's when the 45 really comes into its own. Inside a pillow case, and bash him over his head
Good thing they didn't steal the 45
But seriously though thieves suck
You really should use a gauge board when cutting the second profile This will allow you to hold the glazing bar more securely. In addition, as you rightly mentioned, only very straight grained material is suitable, so select the best parts for this operation, as the tear out on your bars clearly demonstrates. Good job.
I just bought a no. 45. I haven't cleaned it up yet but I do appreciate your videos. I'm looking forward to using it, and your videos explain things very well. Thank You.
Jim McNicol Cheers Jim, I'm please to be of help. Good luck with your 45 - razor sharp cutters and practice is all you need to keep in mind.
You're a brave man, Mitch, and I'm pleasantly surprised how well it eventually came out! The #45 and it's big brother, the #55, must be responsible for more foul language in the workshop than any other plane in history! I have a #405 Record, but rarely use it because of the 'fiddling time' setting the thing up, the sheer hard work of pushing the damn' thing, and the infamous tear-out, which I found to be unavoidable in all but perfect stuff, which is pretty hard to get. It can't help but tear out, because there's nothing in front of the cutter but fresh air and two thin skates!
Good luck to those who like them, but if ever a plane was a 'Marmite' - this is it! Thanks for a very interesting video.
Marmite for sure.
Razor sharp cutters and reducing depth of cut as approaching finish depth can help a lot I've found.
Good job Mitch. That doesn't look easy! I have to try it myself, maybe I can film my attempt too...
I could have looked for some easier stock to work it on, but where's the fun in that!
Nice video Mitch. You did pretty well. How long did this piece take to cut? Cutting sash was the reason I bought my 1st 45. I got it complete in like-new condition with the original box. I priced router bits and I got the 45 cheaper than a set of sash bits. Unless you have nearly perfect wood, it will be an exercise in frustration. While they do cut old heart pine fairly well, today's cultivated lumber is far from satisfactory for this tool IMHO. Sash bars are extremely difficult to cut, especially on the second side. Having a reverse cut moulding to support them helps a lot so if you make one, save it for future use since it takes longer to make than the sash bars themselves.
If I could do it again, I'd get a set of wood sash planes. Any wide cut like this needs a mouthed plane to be done well. BTW, I bought the router bits...........
My advice is this: If you already have a well tuned 45 with crazy sharp cutters and don't mind spending an afternoon cutting a few feet of sash stock, have fun and use it. And make sure you have more lumber than you think you need. But if you're building windows from scratch, get the router bits or sash planes.
blmeflmm66 Nice story and good advice there.
I'd like to try it out on some red cedar, maybe replace the windows in my machine shop, which would hold up really well to our weather here. It's years since I had my hands on any, and I wasn't into hand tools so much then, but I remember it worked very easily.
Would initially removing some of the waste with separate cutters make the process a bit easier.
Definitely in hardwoods, but to be honest I think most on site prep would be done with a rebate plane and block plane, with the 45 left setup for the final shaping. In knott free straight grained softwood, then a coarse cut can quickly rough the work out, and then the cutter wound back for the final few passes.
Great video. Do you know of a 45 blade iron that will cut the cope where the low rail meets the stile profile? thank you!
Thanks. I don't know of such an iron. Don't believe Stanley ever made one. I suspect, but can't be sure, that anyone using a 45 would make simple mitres. The quality of sash being more suitable for humble dwellings where putty would fill any gaps.
Whereas a joiner with a full set of wooden sash planes would have a plane specifically for the task.
I have the Record 405, I've got the sash blade razor sharp and still can't have a fine cut as with a normal benchplane... And as you said, good straight grain is hard to find. Nice video.
The 'skates' are often not perfectly straight and flat, which doesn't help.
@@mitchwoodwork actually didn't think of that... Maybe I've to look into that next time, thanks
Mitch, Did you find the Fluting and reeding cutters, Hollows, rounds, and nosing sets? I am looking for the same.
I haven't yet. TBH my use of these would be quite limited, so it's not something I've put much effort into. It would be nice to complete the series though.
Okay, but how do you make the coping cut on multiple-pane windows? Can you even do that with a #45?
No you need to scribe and cut those by hand
May I suggest you start forward on your first cut and slowly work backwards. Try see how you go.
Cheers Robin. Yes, that can sometimes help with all the various cutters.
Thank you Mitch.
Interesting video, but this looks like one application where it's time to get out the router table!
Either break out the router, or get an apprentice!
👍
Cheers
A ver si aprendemos a afilar.
There are sharpening videos on here, which I hope you can find. Cheers
Sharpen