Superb video Chris with excellent attention to detail, thank you. Excellent point to measure the depth to the cutting edge rather than the skate, one small suggestion would be that if the groove depth is critical then adjust the cutter to the correct cutting depth before setting the depth stop. 45s are superb tools when correctly adjusted but can be very troublesome for inexperienced users, so I wonder how many frustrated 45 owners have seen your videos and finally mastered using their 45 :) Final thought re edge grooving, with the long bars installed I'd guess you could fit your other rosewood guide to the other side of the 45 to hold the groove true to both edges? Sounds good in theory but maybe they might pinch, I'd be interested in the answer if you tested this (and not just for a good excuse to buy another 45... well maybe a bit)
Good points! You could certainly use a second fence when edge grooving, and though I've not done it with a #45, I've done it with a #55 since it already had 2 fences power plane and it works well there. Kinda makes it fool proof. Maybe that's a good use for a fence missing its knob on a #45. A #45 has been one of my favorites to use and share. I hope to some day finish this series of videos, and am working on putting up a web page with a complete type study
@@MosquitoMade Oh wow, a complete study guide of 45s would be awesome!! I made a 45 kerfing plane attachment recently, basically a block of oak (because that's what I had to hand) about the size of a profile plane body with holes drilled at the correct distance for 45 guide bars, positioned so that the bottom of the block sits level with the skates. Add a couple of brass screws that tighten down onto the guide bars to lock it in place. Then set the 45 fence to the centreline at the bottom of the block as a guide to saw a parallel kerf. Epoxy glue a saw blade into the kerf (length of bandsaw blade would probably work well) and you're done. I made this as an idle curiousity but its actually incredibly useful and I find myself reaching for it all the time.
@@doczoff5655 Do you have pictures of that anywhere? That sounds really neat. I've wanted to do something similar with one of mine for a while too, just never have. I've seen maybe 2 other people do it so far
You're welcome! The #45 is one of my favorite planes to use (and that's probably why I have 6 of them :D ). Hopefully you can get your working well :-)
Excellent coverage of the nuances of using this type of plane! Most people skip over this stuff (and set their irons too deep). This plane can be finicky to set up properly (I have a #55). Takes a long time to figure out the fine points on your own. Once set correctly, it is a joy to use.
I absolutely agree on all points. And once you get used to setting it up, it's no where near as bad either, but the learning curve can be steep sometimes
Hi Chris, kind of late to the game, but I'm wondering what, if anything, you'd do differently when using a Stanley 46? I need to plow grooves in the edges on white oak to be able to insert parts of a chest I'm building. Suggestions? Dwight
Dwight1031 When plowing a groove with a #46, it's pretty much the same exercise as with the #45. It depends on what kind of #46 you have. If yours has one with a separate fence, then it's pretty much identical, but don't need to use the sliding skate, assuming the groove isn't 3/4" wide or something (the main casting on a #46 is wider than a #45). The depth stop is set more like an early #45 or the depth stop on the sliding skate of the #45, there's no knurled nut, just one that holds it in place, and then you slide it up or down to set. If it's the kind of #46 that has the fence that attaches to the sliding skate, then you would set the sliding skate/fence the same way as setting the fence on the other. I quite like using my #46, I like the curly shavings that it (usually) ejects nicely out the side. I also find it a little easier to keep square with the face you're plowing the groove on, due to the wider main skate. Good luck!
***** Thanks, Chris. I have a separate sliding section and a fence for my 46. As you noted, the sliding section is too wide to use with the 1/4" blade for the groove, so I'm just using the fence. Thanks for the response.
Thanks Chris I just got a 45 it has flower motifs on it.Im looking for a knob a nicker and screw anddo you know how many cutters it has in a full set.Thanks for your help
Pura vida Chris for sharing your techniques regarding Stanley 45
simple clear explanation. thanks
Thank you!
It''s hard to find good videos on specialty planes. Thank you for putting this out.
Sure thing! I hope to do more in the future as well
Superb video Chris with excellent attention to detail, thank you. Excellent point to measure the depth to the cutting edge rather than the skate, one small suggestion would be that if the groove depth is critical then adjust the cutter to the correct cutting depth before setting the depth stop. 45s are superb tools when correctly adjusted but can be very troublesome for inexperienced users, so I wonder how many frustrated 45 owners have seen your videos and finally mastered using their 45 :) Final thought re edge grooving, with the long bars installed I'd guess you could fit your other rosewood guide to the other side of the 45 to hold the groove true to both edges? Sounds good in theory but maybe they might pinch, I'd be interested in the answer if you tested this (and not just for a good excuse to buy another 45... well maybe a bit)
Good points! You could certainly use a second fence when edge grooving, and though I've not done it with a #45, I've done it with a #55 since it already had 2 fences power plane and it works well there. Kinda makes it fool proof. Maybe that's a good use for a fence missing its knob on a #45.
A #45 has been one of my favorites to use and share. I hope to some day finish this series of videos, and am working on putting up a web page with a complete type study
@@MosquitoMade Oh wow, a complete study guide of 45s would be awesome!! I made a 45 kerfing plane attachment recently, basically a block of oak (because that's what I had to hand) about the size of a profile plane body with holes drilled at the correct distance for 45 guide bars, positioned so that the bottom of the block sits level with the skates. Add a couple of brass screws that tighten down onto the guide bars to lock it in place. Then set the 45 fence to the centreline at the bottom of the block as a guide to saw a parallel kerf. Epoxy glue a saw blade into the kerf (length of bandsaw blade would probably work well) and you're done. I made this as an idle curiousity but its actually incredibly useful and I find myself reaching for it all the time.
@@doczoff5655 Do you have pictures of that anywhere? That sounds really neat. I've wanted to do something similar with one of mine for a while too, just never have. I've seen maybe 2 other people do it so far
Great video. This is the best no.45 coverage I’ve seen. Thanks!
Thanks! Too bad my video-making wasn't better back then lol
Thanks Chris for the video. This past summer I became the owner of a Stanley 45. Looking forward to giving it a try this summer. Jeff
You're welcome! The #45 is one of my favorite planes to use (and that's probably why I have 6 of them :D ). Hopefully you can get your working well :-)
Excellent coverage of the nuances of using this type of plane! Most people skip over this stuff (and set their irons too deep). This plane can be finicky to set up properly (I have a #55). Takes a long time to figure out the fine points on your own. Once set correctly, it is a joy to use.
I absolutely agree on all points. And once you get used to setting it up, it's no where near as bad either, but the learning curve can be steep sometimes
Looks like it cut pretty smooth! Thank you.
Nice looking work bench.
Thanks, it's served me well the past few years
merci pour cette belle vidéo. je viens d'en acheter un ;)
Yo tengo uno original con todas las cuchillas sin usar estan con el filo original con la caja y 53 cuchillas originales stanley. Esta como nuevo
Hi Chris, kind of late to the game, but I'm wondering what, if anything, you'd do differently when using a Stanley 46? I need to plow grooves in the edges on white oak to be able to insert parts of a chest I'm building. Suggestions? Dwight
Dwight1031 When plowing a groove with a #46, it's pretty much the same exercise as with the #45.
It depends on what kind of #46 you have. If yours has one with a separate fence, then it's pretty much identical, but don't need to use the sliding skate, assuming the groove isn't 3/4" wide or something (the main casting on a #46 is wider than a #45). The depth stop is set more like an early #45 or the depth stop on the sliding skate of the #45, there's no knurled nut, just one that holds it in place, and then you slide it up or down to set.
If it's the kind of #46 that has the fence that attaches to the sliding skate, then you would set the sliding skate/fence the same way as setting the fence on the other.
I quite like using my #46, I like the curly shavings that it (usually) ejects nicely out the side. I also find it a little easier to keep square with the face you're plowing the groove on, due to the wider main skate. Good luck!
***** Thanks, Chris. I have a separate sliding section and a fence for my 46. As you noted, the sliding section is too wide to use with the 1/4" blade for the groove, so I'm just using the fence. Thanks for the response.
Dwight1031 Not a problem!
chris how is the knob on the older style fence attached?
Really large threads. The threads are cast into the plane fence, and the knob just threads on to that
Thanks Chris I just got a 45 it has flower motifs on it.Im looking for a knob a nicker and screw anddo you know how many cutters it has in a full set.Thanks for your help