Followed your guide, and everything is perfect! Thank you for making it easy. I tried to wiggle the old nozzle first and you suggested, and it was easy to remove! Glad I didn't need to remove the case or anything...
Unfortunately I broke my hotend while changing the nozzle. Didn't have any experience with 3D printers and broke the tiny screws that were keeping the hotend in place. Fortunately a replacement was sent with the printer, and also, Ankermake sent me a new one within a week, even though I live all the way in The Netherlands
That's how I felt with the filament holder. The screws literally "eat", that's what we say. Whether that's just because of the screw locking agent that was applied or because of the poor quality of the screws, but the Allen key broke afterwards.
I went and brought some M2 x 16mm 12.9 Alloy Steel. I haven't tried to replace my nozzle yet but those should be much better than the ones anker gives you.
Thanks for the vid…..very helpful. Also where did you source the larger holed nozzles…….I can only find the 0.4mm ones for this printer. I would like to get the 0.5 and 0.6mm ones?? Cheers
Thanks! Glad I could help. I got the extra nozzles from the Kickstarter campaign. I'm not sure if all the levels get them, but mine came with a little baggy with a bunch of extras.
What nozzles did you use for this? Official Ankermake ones? Saw your vid on printing with wood filament and wondered if you need hardened nozzles for that / which ones you were using.
So how did the wood filament do? I've been wanting to print with wood and I haven't tried it yet. I certainly haven't changed the nozzle. I've only had my printer for a couple of days. But now that I've seen your video I really want to do some wood stuff because I have printed some cool stuff in the past on an ender 3. I need to look up some videos and see if anybody has done one on wood. Thanks for the video on the nozzle though... I had been wondering if it was going to be easy enough to change that.
After swapping the nozzle I come up with a heating error code and now I can’t print anything. But everything came apart like it should. Talked to support already and waiting to hear back
my nozzle on the printer doesn't fit the bit any more. The other bits fit just fine. I think the nozzle got warped. I more worried about crossfeeding again. my other hotend got the threads cross
Dang, sorry to hear. Did the nozzle warp or just the hex bit? Or is there just some filament goop on the outside of the nozzle? When I first started trying the hex bit, the nozzles wouldn't fit either, so I basically scraped out the inside bit by bit by pushing a nozzle in until it fit.
Hi Ecto; really enjoy the videos! Just curious - have you found a Prusa and/or Cura profile for the .6 nozzle? I put a .6 on mine a few days ago, but discovered the profiles ankermake provides for Cura/Prusa don't include .6 profiles. I can manually change the nozzle size setting to .6, but I'm still seeing the layer height and other settings for the .4 nozzle. I'm sure these can all be updated manually, but I'm not quite there yet in my learning.
Are all your prints centered on the bed? Mine seem to be shifted to the front a 1/2 inch and to the right a 1/2. I always level and home the settings. I need to catch up on your videos so I am not asking questions you may have already discussed.
Usually between .5-.8. But it differs by machine, so you'd need to find yours for your machine. I usually just go up until I don't hear grinding anymore on the first layer.
Pretty sure this is intentional so you don't accidentally touch the hot nozzle... at least that's what I've heard. Don't know if I'm a fan of it yet haha
Can you explain the importance of Z-axis? Or do a video about it? My Z-axis is at 0 (the way it came) with the nozzle it came out of the box with and it's been going just fine. At least to my noob eyes
Good question. I'm no expert yet but from what I understand when the printer homes itself it detects the level of the print bed. But sometimes it can just be TOO close to the bed for the first layer which can either scratch the print plate or make the first layer too thin. I think both of those were happening when I first got mine. The first benchy I printed sounded like it was grinding into the bed and the first layer was basically engrained into the texture of the plate and I had to scrape it off with the cutters. So that's where the Z-Offset comes in. It allows you to "offset" the z-axis to a place that it has good first layer adhesion but isn't too close such that it grinds the plate. Hope this helps :)
It pisses me off that you still can't get alternative nozzles! Anker is unable to serve the market. That's too bad. Otherwise I'm very happy with the printer and have only had one problem with an object detaching from the platen, but that was my fault. I would buy it again anytime! I managed to install Cura in my language and now only print via the AnkerMake slicer, nothing more ;-)
Followed your guide, and everything is perfect! Thank you for making it easy. I tried to wiggle the old nozzle first and you suggested, and it was easy to remove! Glad I didn't need to remove the case or anything...
Unfortunately I broke my hotend while changing the nozzle. Didn't have any experience with 3D printers and broke the tiny screws that were keeping the hotend in place.
Fortunately a replacement was sent with the printer, and also, Ankermake sent me a new one within a week, even though I live all the way in The Netherlands
Dang, yeah, heard that happen to lots of people. Glad they sent you another replacement though!
That's how I felt with the filament holder. The screws literally "eat", that's what we say. Whether that's just because of the screw locking agent that was applied or because of the poor quality of the screws, but the Allen key broke afterwards.
Same thing just happened to me, so annoying
I went and brought some M2 x 16mm 12.9 Alloy Steel. I haven't tried to replace my nozzle yet but those should be much better than the ones anker gives you.
Thanks for the vid…..very helpful.
Also where did you source the larger holed nozzles…….I can only find the 0.4mm ones for this printer. I would like to get the 0.5 and 0.6mm ones??
Cheers
Thanks! Glad I could help. I got the extra nozzles from the Kickstarter campaign. I'm not sure if all the levels get them, but mine came with a little baggy with a bunch of extras.
how to change the nozzle size in settings???
Came here to find this. Any luck?
What nozzles did you use for this? Official Ankermake ones? Saw your vid on printing with wood filament and wondered if you need hardened nozzles for that / which ones you were using.
Just the included nozzles (with the extras from the Kickstarter)
Yes you need a hardened nozzle
Do we not need to indicate that we are using a larger nozzle??
Print a plastic wrench for the hot end ?
So how did the wood filament do? I've been wanting to print with wood and I haven't tried it yet. I certainly haven't changed the nozzle. I've only had my printer for a couple of days. But now that I've seen your video I really want to do some wood stuff because I have printed some cool stuff in the past on an ender 3. I need to look up some videos and see if anybody has done one on wood. Thanks for the video on the nozzle though... I had been wondering if it was going to be easy enough to change that.
The back 2 screws are stripped. Any suggestions?
After swapping the nozzle I come up with a heating error code and now I can’t print anything. But everything came apart like it should. Talked to support already and waiting to hear back
I broke two nozzles off, trying to get them out of the hot end
my nozzle on the printer doesn't fit the bit any more. The other bits fit just fine. I think the nozzle got warped. I more worried about crossfeeding again. my other hotend got the threads cross
Dang, sorry to hear. Did the nozzle warp or just the hex bit? Or is there just some filament goop on the outside of the nozzle? When I first started trying the hex bit, the nozzles wouldn't fit either, so I basically scraped out the inside bit by bit by pushing a nozzle in until it fit.
@@Ecto3DPrinting its the the one nozzle that doesn't fit. the unused one still fit the hex bit. Im going to have the just use a wrench to get it off.
Hi Ecto; really enjoy the videos! Just curious - have you found a Prusa and/or Cura profile for the .6 nozzle?
I put a .6 on mine a few days ago, but discovered the profiles ankermake provides for Cura/Prusa don't include .6 profiles. I can manually change the nozzle size setting to .6, but I'm still seeing the layer height and other settings for the .4 nozzle. I'm sure these can all be updated manually, but I'm not quite there yet in my learning.
Hmm, I'm not sure. I think when I changed mine I just had to use the AnkerMake slicer (it may have been before I started using Prusa).
Are all your prints centered on the bed? Mine seem to be shifted to the front a 1/2 inch and to the right a 1/2. I always level and home the settings. I need to catch up on your videos so I am not asking questions you may have already discussed.
Hmm, haven't seen that before. Mine are centered in the slicer and they always seem to print in the right place.
@@Ecto3DPrinting Ok. I am thinking that it is off a little since I am using others ready to print files?
@@1blktalon that makes sense. It's likely that the files were created for a smaller print bed.
@@s13rr4buf3 ok. Thanks for the info.
What's your Z-offset setting?
Usually between .5-.8. But it differs by machine, so you'd need to find yours for your machine. I usually just go up until I don't hear grinding anymore on the first layer.
After the new firmware update on Saturday the extruder constantly moves back and forth on x axis when preheating. Anyone have this issue?
Pretty sure this is intentional so you don't accidentally touch the hot nozzle... at least that's what I've heard. Don't know if I'm a fan of it yet haha
@@Ecto3DPrinting Ankermake will be disabling that feature in the next update in 3 weeks.
Can you explain the importance of Z-axis? Or do a video about it? My Z-axis is at 0 (the way it came) with the nozzle it came out of the box with and it's been going just fine. At least to my noob eyes
Good question. I'm no expert yet but from what I understand when the printer homes itself it detects the level of the print bed. But sometimes it can just be TOO close to the bed for the first layer which can either scratch the print plate or make the first layer too thin. I think both of those were happening when I first got mine. The first benchy I printed sounded like it was grinding into the bed and the first layer was basically engrained into the texture of the plate and I had to scrape it off with the cutters. So that's where the Z-Offset comes in. It allows you to "offset" the z-axis to a place that it has good first layer adhesion but isn't too close such that it grinds the plate. Hope this helps :)
It pisses me off that you still can't get alternative nozzles!
Anker is unable to serve the market. That's too bad.
Otherwise I'm very happy with the printer and have only had one problem with an object detaching from the platen, but that was my fault.
I would buy it again anytime!
I managed to install Cura in my language and now only print via the AnkerMake slicer, nothing more ;-)
If you check out the AnkerMake Discord, some people there have found hardened nozzles on Aliexpress that work with it.
@@Ecto3DPrinting I don't know if I can find it that serious on Aliexpress if the hole diameter isn't even described. 0.4? 0.6?
This printer is total design failure
@@Monokiyo OK HuSo