How to Build an Energy-Efficient Solar Greenhouse - Ceres Greenhouse Solutions
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ต.ค. 2024
- Wondering how to build an energy-efficient solar greenhouse. Check out our video and learn how Ceres Greenhouse Solutions builds an environment-friendly and energy-efficient greenhouse. To learn more about Ceres Greenhouse Solutions and its services, you may visit our website: ceresgs.com/.
Check out Josh Holleb of Ceres Greenhouse Solutions as he shares with you how Ceres Solutions build greenhouses that are eco-friendly and energy-efficient.
Ceres Solutions use their patented GAHT® system. This technique enables the greenhouse to supply its own heating and cooling by using the sun's energy and the soil underground. Unlike the traditional greenhouses, Ceres solar greenhouses are well-insulated to provide consistent temperatures throughout the year, use polycarbonate roofs for maximum energy efficiency, and non-Low-E double pane windows to allow UV and infrared light to penetrate the greenhouse, which is necessary for plants to achieve optimum growth. The result is an extremely long-lasting, automated, self-sustaining, and energy-efficient greenhouse. Thanks to Ceres' cutting-edge greenhouse technology, now fall harvests are a thing of the past!
Learn more about the GAHT® system at this link - ceresgs.com/en...
Contact Us: ceresgs.com/co...
Visit our website: ceresgs.com/?u...
Like and follow us on Facebook: / ceresgreenhouse
Follow us on Instagram: / ceresgreenhouse
Pinterest: www.pinterest.com./ceresgreenhouse/
Hi everyone! This is Josh from Ceres Greenhouse Solutions. We're up here in Nederland, Colorado, elevation of 8600 feet this morning, getting ready for 15-foot by 20-foot greenhouses. So, the foundation is insulated, GAHT® systems are in place, and walls will be going up through.
Ceres uses standard two-by-four construction in our walls. This particular greenhouse is engineered for 135 miles an hour of wind and 40 pounds per square foot of snow. So, there's a lot of structure.
Ceres uses a double-pane non-Low-E window. Standard Low-E coatings block UV and infrared light, both of which plants need for optimum growth.
Our roofing consists of 16-millimeter triple wall polycarbonate designed specifically for greenhouses. The polycarbonate allows 70% light transmittance, is 100% light-diffusing, and comes with a 10-year weather warranty.
Unlike traditional greenhouses, the walls of a Ceres greenhouse are highly insulated to help keep temperatures regulated year-round. On the interior of the greenhouse, we use magnesium oxide panels. Magnesium Oxide doesn't rob human environments and is naturally anti-fungal and anti-microbial. The panels also add thermal mass to the interior of the greenhouse.
Ceres offers custom exterior finishes. For this greenhouse, we matched the siding with the siding of the existing house. So here we are, the morning of day three of the build, just putting the finishing touches on the greenhouse. The greenhouse is now complete and ready to plant for year-round growing. With Ceres' innovative greenhouse technology, fall harvests are a thing of the past.
Very nice looking! One thing that surprised me is the lack of any type of house wrap or vapor barrier underneath the lap siding! 2:00 Here in the northwestern US there would be a serious problem with black mold on the plywood after a single season, guaranteed. We could never get away with that. You must be in a dry climate.
Even in the south you need a air/water barrier on any wood facing the outside. This is simply not a building that will last.
Yea, No Tyvek. I was wondering the same thing. I'd have put ice and water shield down, then tyvek and lots of tape. Nederland is windy AF, and that rain can come in sideways. Beautiful framing though. That could probably withstand a car falling on it ;)
Well yeah it's Colorado
this is a perfect project specially when winter comes.. great job.
Here in Canada (Nova Scotia) even regular food in the stores (I am not even talking about high quality, local and organic food) is so expensive that you would be surprised how quick it would pay for itself (if you build it yourself, not sure how it would look like if you have it build by someone else). You can easily grow 5k/year in food in a greenhouse like that, probably more. Factor in the excersise, food security, quality time spent doing something that makes sense. Absolutely worth it. I have started dreaming about a greenhouse as well..
Hey - thats my house!! the gre
en house rocks!
A greenhouse attached to the house how cool is that!
Install a solar heater on the roof of the greenhouse for more heat during the colder seasons. It will also push the exhaled oxygen from the plants into the main house and suck the carbon dioxide we exhale back to the greenhouse plants (that's what they like). It's a complete circle with healthier air for everything involved and free heat.
Are you sure those beams are heavy enough for the 16mm polycarbonate? Sure looks good.
Man, this is a good video. Very informative and well done. I'm trying to build an attached greenhouse right now for my TH-cam channel and found this video the absolute best!
How much does it cost to build this insulated greenhouse?
Just wondering if you still use MgO boards ?
i need this in my life
Greenhouse!? It's an extension!
Wow! Amazing :D
Where would a person get these magnesium oxide panels?
wow, 77 thousand views and almost 300 LIKES, nice video, Josh!!
How Much does this normally cost?
For pricing questions, please email info@ceresgs.com and include the URL of this video in the body of the email.
What is the cost to build one like this, thanks
This is a custom attached residential greenhouse and we don't design custom structures under 3,000 sq ft anymore. But if you are interested in the next closest thing, check out our DIY greenhouse designs. Standard plans start at $950 but the material needs to be sourced by you. The plans do come with a materials list though
im around 1600 ft would a green like this work out good for me,thanks
Genios!! 👍👍👌👌
What is done to mitigate the absorption of humidity into the house. Humidity that through the facing wall and soffits migrates into the roof space creating mold and rot. Thank you.
Thanks for reaching out Robert. This greenhouse is attached to the backside of the garage. The north wall of the greenhouse/south wall of the garage is Hardi board (concrete) which is caulked and sealed with a moisture barrier beneath it. We also use ventilation in the greenhouse as well as a dehumidifier inside the greenhouse to manage humidity at all times.
Hello. This greenhouse is 15ft x 20ft. But what about height? Is there a rule of thumb to go by? I'm thinking 12ft tall or so, because I'll be growing trees, and I don't want to strictly put dwarf varieties in, unless that is a no-brainer option.
Our current models of backyard kit have an 8' south eave height, which extends to 10' on the north side. If you are looking for added height for the smaller greenhouses you can extend the foundation another 2' or more to gain added height. We definitely recommend dwarf and semi dwarf trees for the greenhouses though, as space is at a premium. If you'd like to talk to one of our greenhouse experts, contact us at ceresgs.com/contact/
looks very nice,
Beautiful.
Where can you build this? All around the USA?
yes! Some aspects of the design will differ depending on the geographical location of the site, but we have built greenhouses like this all over the US and even in Canada
How do you deal with the high levels of humidity delivered by the GAHT at night?
+Ceres Greenhouses
These systems only dehumidify in cooling mode. The air drops to dewpoint in the tubing and moisture (aka water vapour) condenses out as liquid water. The air leaving the tubing is cooler and drier.
In heating mode, the opposite happens. The cool air picks up heat and moisture from the tubing. A percentage of the energy transferred to the air is "sensible", which raises the temperature of the air. The rest is "latent", which represents the energy used to convert liquid water in the tubing into water vapour (aka a gas), which is then carried into the greenhouse. The latent component (water vapour) doesnt raise the temperature.. it simply serves to raise the greenhouse RH.
Its a very basic thermodynamic principle but if you monitor the output RH% , you will clearly see its considerably higher than the RH% entering the tubing.
Typically, around half of the water condensed in the tubing during the day (when the system is in cooling mode) is returned to the greenhouse at night (when its in heating mode) in the form of water vapour, which results in very high greenhouse RH% :)
+Ceres Greenhouses
The RH% will always rise due to the latent heat component which is hidden unless you are actively looking for it in terms of RH%
monitoring.
The sensible component heats the air in the tubing but more sensible heat is effectively being stolen from the mass to provide the energy required for liquid to gas phase change. The mass has a finite amount of energy so you dont want to waste it converting water into water vapour.
To reduce night % you will have to reduce the amount of water condensed in the tubing during daytime cooling (aka heat storage) which entails preventing the air from dropping to dewpoint in the tubing. This is almost impossible to acheive unless you have very short tubes and some serious fan power :)
Another option is to prevent the latent component from entering the greenhouse at night but its not easy to do with the traditional tubing/plenum layout.
I`ve had my shcs running for 7 years, the design is unique as it was geared with experimentation in mind so i could gather as much meaningful data from it as possible.
It uses a radial tubing layout with a variable speed fan capable of putting the entire greenhouse air volume underground in less than a minute. Very few installations have the fan power for that kind of experimentation and even fewer have sufficient sensors installed for measuring the various soil and air temperatures along with RH% both inside and outside the structure.
Most folks consider these systems work like traditional heating where the heat is 100% sensible like an electric fire but its not the case. Others assume the heat in the mass is miraculously replaced from the earths core lol, again, not the case. The most common misconception is that the ground temperature at depth remains constant all year round. It doesnt if you alter the energy balance by sheltering the ground with a structure and actively add/remove energy that would otherwise not be happening.
If you create a tropical environment over a piece of protected alaskan ground it wont behave in the same way as alaskan ground 20ft away :)
Its good to see the Cere`s design uses multiple layers of tubing, some folks would have you beleive a single layer of tubing installed at 8ft can magically access all the heat from or distribute the heat to the entire mass above it instantly.
If they had a few sensors installed a few feet below the tubing they would also notice heat moving downward where it cant be recovered. Insulation below the tubing is important if the main goal is for heating in a cold climate.
Apologies for the epic post but hopefully you found some of it interesting even though it barely scratches the surface
+JohnGuest45 I do find it very interesting. Would you be interested in comparing data with our performance metrics with ours -- we've done many different combinations of variables -- or discussing your experiments further? you can email me at lindsey at ceresgs dot com
A long time question of ours has been what portion of the heating / cooling power of a GAHT system comes from the greenhouse's heat, the phase changes, and the stable temp of the earth. Would love to hear your thoughts. Emails the best way to reliably reach me. (Ps. logged in as my personal acct. now, but I am the commenter above and poster of the video here as well :))
+LBS LBS
The proportion of heat from the phase change component is directly related to the RH%. An overhead misting system can be used to modify the RH% for experimentation,comparisons and data gathering purposes. The results from the sensors will be clear but the real eye opener is when you use the data, along with airflow rate, in/out RH% difference, etc, to calculate the amount of energy being transferred. Some folks use rudimentary conductive heat transfer calulations based on the tube surface area and basic temperature difference which doesnt account for the latent component and wonder why its not adding up :)
The same kind of testing can be done by varying the airflow rate without modifying the RH to show how the air flowrate affects energy transfer. No doubts this is one you`ll have tried assuming you have a variable speed fan and anemometer to accurately measure the airflow.
Trickling a small amount of air through the tubing guarantees it will drop to the soilmass temperature and most folks will be impressed by that. Unfortunately, the amount of energy transferred is pitiful and it wont be enough to keep pace with heat gain in the summer so the greenhouse soon tops 100+ with the system running.
The heat capacity of dry air is very low. To put it into context, the
energy given up by 1lb of water undergoing a phase change from gas to a liquid is equivalent to 56,000 cubic feet of dry air.
Simple testing will show you that heat transfer increases with flowrate, upto a point. Sacrificing a few degrees F in the tube outlet temperature by doubling the flowrate through can transfer upto 3x the amount of energy in the same time period. The optimum airflow rate depends on conditions at the time, for example, there`s no sense running very high flowrates if the incoming solar gains cant support it, the fan will be switcing on and off every few minutes as it outruns the gains. In that situation, running a lower flowrate will achieve the same goal, the fan wont constantly cycle on/off and it`ll take less electrical power to do the same job.
Aother scratch of the surface ;)
There`s still the tube layouts, plenums, soil mass properties and a host of other things to consider when designing these deceptively simple systems.
+JohnGuest45 Next question: Something I've had trouble understanding is why condensation underground during the day produces a cooling effect. As phase changes go, condensation is an exothermic reaction, so the water molecules should be releasing heat to their outdoor surroundings - the air -thus heating the air. But, that conflicts with what everyone says and what we see via data. There's a part of the function I'm missing; I don't know what it is. Maybe you can help explain.
Do u have agents in Boston area ? . what is the cost ? .
Love it!
SWEET!!!
@ :20 "the ??? system is in place". Maybe you should explain what the purpose of the black tubes is.
To heat up the floor and the rest of the greenhouse. but mainly the floor.. the heat radiates up,,they do this by recirculating the hot air in the upper part of the greenhouse through the black pipes in or under the floor...
ijjj
he said, GAHT system is in place.
in winter, the earth a few feet down is warmer than the surface.
in summer, the earth a few feet down is cooler than the surface.
A Ground to Air Heat Transfer (GAHT) system, sometimes referred to as a ‘climate battery’, allows the greenhouse to provide its own heating and cooling using the energy of the sun and the soil underground. By utilizing this system, one is effectively able to create a geothermal greenhouse designed for renewable climate control and year-round growing, with a much lower environmental impact of a traditional HVAC system.
How much? I don’t think I can afford it.
we are currently working to develop a more affordable greenhouse design. Sign up for newsletter for more information on the subject
Netherland Colorado... So weird haha i am from the Netherlands... And yes... it is a country not just a town in Colorado haha
Wanted to watch, but music to loud and districting.
Would be nice if a transcript was attached for the hearing impaired. :'(
You can click on "closed captioning" at the bottom of the TH-cam video if you would like to watch the video without sound.
Toss a strip of plywood on that roof to displace your weight when walking around.
You just made a roof for a green house capable of holding a bus on it. Over kill does not do this structure justice. I'm questioning your engineer
Johnson Rocson I thought the same thing. A little bit over engineered.
Still marvellous though; it'll last and it'll add value to the property :)
Depends, I live in a area with a heavy snow load. Heat will rise, snow melts and can turn to ice. That can and will make a roof fall in.
Why do people always find negative things to say? Better be safe than sorry!
I so need this, now how to tell the wife she's not getting a new car.
I know this is three years old but - if your wife would rather have a new car than a greenhouse, it might be time for a new wife. LOL
@@Eddie_the_Husky still true
@ 1:09 look at the 2x4,thats not good.
You would be surprised if you knew how much that happens in construction and nothing is done about it. It's because it's not load bearing and besides aesthetics since it was getting covered no big woop.
It looks like 13 nails were driven in that one area. Also the nails were way overdriven. There is a setting on your nail gun that solves this problem.
Again, why do people focus on the negative? This greenhouse seems functional, and it looks great. I am sure it will grow lots of fruits and veggies.
It's not a greenhouse, it's a conservatory.
Must be at least 30k price tag😂
Our greenhouses are more expensive than others but they allow our clients to grow productively year-round with minimal supplemental heating. You get what you pay for essentially.
Вот что у меня получилось th-cam.com/video/wi-LyPdrG7U/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for sharing your video link. If you could add an English subtitle, it would help those of us who don't speak your language understand what you're saying. Thanks for sharing, though.
What's the cost?
For pricing information, please email info@ceresgs.com and include this video URL in the email body
How much would something like this cost?