Nice to hear someone who has done some research come out "against" spray foam... Seems like everyone is all about spray foam- I'm on the fence because there hasn't been much research done... Glad to see someone with their own opinion on these things! 🍻
I just bought a 1960's home with full brick, 2x6 primary framing, concrete and block foundation- copper piping, etc. The previous owner used spray foam between the window roughings, and air blows right thru it!
Yes indeed. turning your residence into a greenhouse via spray foam requires very elaborate and expensive air exhange HVAC systems and a dehumidifier. Insulated sheathing, air sealing, mineral wool insulation in the stud bays, and good insulation in a vented attic makes homes very temperature efficient w/ traditional forced air HVAC.
@@Natedoc808 Proper batt insulation and air sealing aims to bring the same performance as closed cell foam alone. So how is your air exchange system not going to need to be upgraded as well?
Restoring two 1880’s farm houses in Maine where we need to retain our heat. Finally someone addressing the effects of insulation on an old home and how to navigate it.
Agree on insulating being the best bang for the buck, and I'd add that air sealing an attic floor prior to installing insulation is also quite beneficial. Though I wouldn't call these insulations "vapor barriers". I think the intentional vapor-open profile of these insulations in older homes is what's helps keep them dry (and is a reason why spray foam can cause problems in these applications). On windows, I'd say the install value is much more about comfort more than cost savings. It certainly affects the historic appearance of the house, so it's a tradeoff of comfort vs cost and appearance. I personally would pay more for the comfort benefits (being from MN) and then reduce costs a little by installing fixed windows in strategic spots, as fixed windows tend to be both less expensive and slightly more efficient than windows that can open.
Love these breakdowns. 40 years pay off for something that lasts 20 years! It's a no brainer, hopefully the costs come down and it makes financial sense one day.
I will hopefully start the renovation / restoration of a 1830’s 2 over 2 home in the next 60 days! So excited! Kitchen added on in 1942, bathroom added on in 1955, large addition added on 1990s. It’s going to be fun!
Hope your property is not in UK as i ran into trouble with the Listed Building people whilst trying to renovate a Grade 2 * listed Georgian Mansion. They know how to screw up your life works and projects.
Thanks for reiterating these important items and clarifications. To share a little something. I live in a tiny, tiny, tiny, (did I say tiny?) cabin that I didn't build, it was on the property, it was intended as a weekender to stay at while they are enjoying the lake. Here are the layers: Walls: hardy siding, tar paper, 2x4 studs, R13 fiberglass insulation and 3/8" wood paneling. Also on pier and beam foundation. Roof: Roof shingles, tar paper, 1/2" OSB, R19 FGI, 2x6" joists, 3/8" wood paneling. After being here 10 years and fixtures needed to be replaced I started to work on it. So it's good to have someone like you on the youtube to help this hack along :-).
Great stuff. Window comments are bang on. Our old farmhouse hasn’t got the original wooden sashes and we are looking at glazing failures within 25/30 years. Our insulation is sawmill chips in the inner stud walls. Three layer brick walls so really hard to improve insulation except in the attic. Should probably add another layer up there. Good building all you fellow old house owners.
just moved from a beloved 1860 historic town home in Frederic MD which was fairly energy efficient to a 1968 town home in Leesburg VA which feels like living in a wind tunnel. I am working sealing up gaps where ever I find them such as caulking everything that is possible. Wall outlets and plugs and around doorways and windows and air vents. It is amazing how much air was coming in from the gaps on the outer edges of the vents. I used plumbers putty to seal up those gaps. The windows I am dealing with by putting up window coverings heavy enough to block the cold air and opening them let in warming sunshine when appropriate.
A study done by a Swedish painter, Hans Albeck showed the newest windows with their high price were only a few percent more efficient than the 150 year old Swedish wood windows. He spent his life restoring the old windows and making them tighter and more resistant to the elements. He got deathly ill from the paint chemicals and had to quit work to recover his health. During the recovery he researched the way paint used to be made and learned that linseed oil paint with ground rocks for color was the paint used for hundreds of years. So he started making his own paint. I have used this paint on whole houses and windows. The paint soaks into the wood and it never fades in the sun and it never peels. And the windows refurbished with linseed oil putty and oil will outlast the new windows at a fraction of the cost.
I am also using linseed oil paint for this very reason -- would be great to see a video on this, too! Modern paints are a huge killer of historic buildings and I wished it was more common knowledge. Not to mention the horrible chemicals that go into making modern paints.
This is a relief. I got a window estimate from some guy going door to door and it was supposedly $60k for 17 windows in my 1959 house. They were willing to do it for $30k at 9% lolol. The guy was shocked when I laughed at how high the interest rate was. I will probably still replace my aluminum double windows because they are broken (glazing coming off) and I can’t find anyone who repairs - only replaces. But it’s good to know I can just do the ones that I want without or it compromising the efficiency. Thank you!
I have a pre-1780s house. The walls are 2ft thick stone on the ground floor, and the tudor style wood beams on the top. Walls are as thick as the materials used so barely any heat retention and the windows are at least 100 yrs old. Luckily we have a lot of secondary glazing. Looking forward to renovating!
Great video. I find that people get caught up chasing the % efficiency of their HVAC, the R-value of their insulation, etc when really the only metric that matters is *dollars* spent on your energy bill. So people spend thousands on new windows to get their bill from $200/month to $150 or whatever. Makes no sense. Another pitfall is that lots of people's experience with older homes, especially in more expensive markets, is from living in some neglected basement unit, so they end up thinking all historic homes are drafty, cold, and uncomfortable having never sat next to an old window that's been properly restored and weatherstripped. And the building industry has done a great job convincing people that single pane windows are an emergency that has to be dealt with as soon as you buy a house. It's crazy
Thanks Brent for all your effort and great content. I'm from Germany so our way of building is really different and we kind of lost the good taste in building. Nevertheless I love your knowledge of craftmanship.
Excellent video and info. I have a 1926 Dutch colonial with no insulation. Long term I’d like to replace aluminum siding and add self-adhering building wrap and exterior insulation. Until then, one simple thing I’ve done is try to improve air sealing for my windows, doors, and any penetrations on exterior walls and ceilings such as outlets, switches, and lights. This has resulted in a noticeable reduction in energy bills and improvement in comfort for minimal cost.
👍 Excellent! My brother is an energy rater for houses, and does blower door testing and remediation. I had him do a lot of this kind of thing on my 1926 bungalow house, and it made the house more comfortable and efficient. It has no wall insulation, except fiberglass next to the foundation that’s above ground level in the basement. Which my brother put in.
I agree across-the-board with everything you've said here Brent. To add a little I have had good luck with sealers that you brush onto the concrete, and then taping and plasticing...
I about to begin building my own house by myself here in the rocky mountains. It gets very cold here during the winters. I've been here a few years already preparing for it all. I'm originally from Dallas and lived in the deep south for half of my life, that swampy humid climate. So this has taken some getting used to here. I'm a fan of historic things. Restored classic cars for years. Always original is best. I hate modern day anything. It's just who I am. I will be building a simple and modest four square style house with a pyramid hip roof. I plan to absolutely build it the historic way, meaning little to no insulation. Keeping it very simple and original as they did back then say in the 1800s to 1920s. Making my own doors, windows, cabinets, counter tops etc. no screws, no concrete, no modern day anything. Using actual cuts in my lumber that will come from the San Juan mountains and milled by the Amish. Beatle Kill Doug Fir all the way. Non pressure treated. No plywood or OSB. It will be of post and beams type construction with basalt stone as a facade base around the bottom of the house. The stones came right out of my own yard. I dug them all up myself. Everything is by myself 100 percent all the way. I will be framing my own windows. I had to learn to do this and studied hard for 4 years prior to this. No screws, only nails, high quality hand driven with a hammer. I've been doing some last minute research on insulation etc. and as always if you ask some modern day person about the subject they have made it into some kind of over complicated expensive mess yet most don't seem to know anything except buying stuff from some massive bloat corporation and gluing it on. It's all just too much too much trouble for me. I've been living out here for three years. First in a car for a year and then in a non insulated 35 year old truck camper for past two years. What I've learned is this: You don't actually need insulation. Maybe a small amount, but not much. The floor and maybe the roof is all you actually need if that at all. Seriously. Control the drafts, have a decent space heater or the like and put on a few layers of clothes and you're good to go. The winter is only for a season for which the peak is even shorter. You actually become very accustomed to the climate after a few years and it's not so bad anymore. We are very spoiled in this day and age and that's are down fall. I'm in a high desert climate here. Out of the entire year on about 8 weeks are harsh The rest of the time is nice! It was only hard when I first got here. Now it's a joy. Regular plain Jane insulation in the floors or fiberglass or Rockwool will work fine. Even recycled news paper will work too. Moisture there won't be any issues. How could it be? The roof in my house will not have any attic. It's all opened up to the top for which the peak is 16 feet from the floor! I'm thinking about putting some double bubble wrap insulation, but then again, maybe not. And in the walls there will be no insulation at all. Even still this will actually be warmer than the camper I'm in and this really isn't even that bad to me anymore. Like I said. Only for 8 weeks does it really suck and I've learned to hunker down and hack it. The warm seasons are nice to me and no problems at all. Opening screened windows and running a fan takes care of that, but I've never actually ran a fan yet either. It's cheap though and clean energy. I'm completely 100 percent off grid here. All the way. Have a small solar system and a generator. my entire house turn key ready will only cost about 8 to 10 grand! It will be very high quality and old timey. The way I like it. Simple and easy too. And very long lasting. It will be about 600 square feet which is plenty for me. If I wanted more than I could have more. I will also be building a few more structures too because I enjoy the village feel of that. I'm still learning too as much as I can as often as I can, but it's amazing how much I can tell you now about building. I've read a lot of great old books and watched countless hours of videos about pretty much every type of construction technique and method ever used all over the world from the very beginnings of time up until now and all points in between. It's been amazing. Often times you think you need something when you actually don't. The modern day construction industry thrives on your fear and ignorance and lack of confidence. They sell you all of these supposedly great new things that are most usually garbage and by far too much money and it's never ending. They have a vested interest in you not knowing or understanding things. The less you know the more they can extract your money from you. They want you to believe it's too difficult for you to do on your own. They want the information hard to find and confusing. They want the government to control you so that you are forced to run to them. Etc Etc. it's all just a scam as always. Modern day homes are complete rubbish compared to older homes that have stood the test of time. Sometimes hundreds of even thousands of years old. It takes knowledge. It takes effort. It takes patience. It takes work too. But not a lot of money. Its worth far more than money. You can absolutely do it too! In order to understand the future than look to the past. A major part of what has made us weak as a nation and a people is that we are too dependant on corporations for our lively hoods. You have the power to change all of that! Learn to do things for yourself and then freely give away to others that for which you've learned. Thanks, hope you got something new out of this as well. Also I wanted to add a couple more things about the house, sorry it's early here and just woke up. That's why I have so many misspelled words too. Too tired to retype them. Lol The outside walls of my house will be stucco. Plank boards, tar paper, chicken wire, cement base and stucco. It's all mixed from this family owned stone company in my town. They have amazing stone there and real adobe bricks and are very old and experts in these matters. The interior walls will all be lathe boards and lime based plaster. Not using any horse hair though. It will all be hand mixed carefully a little at a time and applied by myself of course. After that paint if I desire. The floors will all be 2 inch x 6 inch actual cut and applied horizontally and this is the sub floor. Hard wood or tiles on top of that. No tongue and groove anything. The roof will be same individual planks with tar paper and maybe double bubble and then very old fashioned asphalt shingles diamond pattern either green or multi colored. I will have a 2 foot overhang all the way around. The walls will be 8 foot tall around the entire house and reaching up to 16 feet tall toward the center of the house giving me an 8/12 pitch. All of the roof framing will be exposed too. All of the doors will have cast iron external mounted hardware with white porcelain handle and skeleton keys and interior solid long boards for locks just like an old castle. I've invented my own water system and electrical system too which is very unique. I have no HOA and I have no codes here. I am my own land outright and walk around naked much of the time as bold eagles fly over my head and 200 wild mustangs run through the yard. It's impressive to say the least. I can go 3 full months before seeing another human being out here! Ok, just wanted to add that little tid bit for you. Keep your head up. Don't give up. God is good.
I've been 15mos in a 3400sf 2story 1895 gem in midstate SC. 1st energy bill was $900! Decided to put pink r30 in attic & r19 under 1st floor (can no longer see crawl space thru hardwood!). Unfortunately, a cold winter here but I can now keep 1st floor at 70/upper 68 & it's livable. Bills down about $100 so far. Saving grace is it costs next to nothing to cool. I just keep the sun out & it stays nice & cool. Love this old girl!
Neighbor had a beautiful 1800 2500sqft house here in ct. 25 years ago spent then about $100k replacing windows, filling cavities with cellulose, digging drains outside and French drains int ehbaswnt, lifted the house for capillary breaks on the sills etc. within a decade they tore out all the insulation because of the rot and mold
Interesting video I never thought of it that way in terms of the SQ footage, however I have very poor quality builder grade windows that don’t close properly that are 30 years old they are plastic material. I think it would still make sense to replace them with a fiberglass material window
Great video. Thank you so much! I am in the process of buying a 100 year old farmhouse and hope to renovate it (termite damage in the walls, asbestos siding etc...). I originally wanted the land, but when I realized the house had all the original unpainted doors/windows/hardware it was just too charming to resist restoring it. This helps a lot as the insulation question has been a big concern.
The previous owners of my 1880 folk Victorian house had cellulose insulation blown into the wall cavities and replaced the windows with modern vinyl ones. Even when it was 10 degrees outside, it took 2-3 days for it to get cold inside when I had to have my breaker box replaced due to a water leak from the service line.
In this video, you say around 6:23 that cellulose and rockwool are a vapor barrier. In the reading I've been doing at Green Building Advisor they usually say the soft and fluffy stuff is not a vapor barrier and you need a vapor barrier if you insulate. Do you disagree with that? I am contemplating insulating my attic, which was insulated poorly many decades ago. I was thinking of adding an air (vapor?) membrane to my roof, 2 layers of rigid foam on top and then vent channels and finally asphalt shingles. Inside the house, I was thinking of filling my rafter bays with something like cellulose or rock woool or open cell spray foam. This "hybrid roof assembly" would have the air (vapor?) barrier of the roofing membrane and rigid foam so the roof planks and insulation can dry to the inside. Have you done this?
Thanks, those are not vapor barriers. I would be really focused on what you are trying to accomplish in your old house. Do you want it to last a long time or do you want it to perform. It will never be a passive house and my focus would be to improve energy efficiency but maintain the life expectancy. Adding an air barrier can keep the attic from drying out if it gets wet. If it can't dry out, it will fail. If you are hoping the roof dries to the inside you need to move air in the attic area, which I think defeats the point. Its confusing because there are a lot of different messages out there. Thanks.
The double hung wood windows in my '41 home will stay. Every one has been in good enough shape to restore. I have operational storm windows on those I wish to open for ventilation. A corner window double hung setup was replaced with glass block when the room became a bathroom. The operational storms have been prepared and painted to match the wood sash and trim to be as unobtrusive as possible. For gosh sakes people..follow this man's advice! Those wood windows are jewels. Don't discard them. Thanks for another great video.
I have a small (1092sq ft), 1927 Bungalow. I have 19 big windows. A few of my windows were replaced (new homeowner's ignorance), the majority have not been and I don't plan to. I still have the original windows in my basement and I hope to put them back when I come into some bucks. My windows have that wavy look which I just discovered! Just had all the ropes in my windows fixed so my windows stay open! Did some caulking. I'm going to look into your window videos...I think the top parts of the windows were painted shut. I feel very lucky to have such a great house in such good condition. It didn't have a lot of owners and was well built originally. You couldn't give me a new house.
Yes, indeed! Keep those old beautiful sash windows! Insulation between your attic and basement joists. Don’t ruin your legacy house with remodels that are in today and out tomorrow!
Redoing a bathroom in a 1926 house. Right now it is gutted. The exterior wall you can see the back of the wood planks - not sure if it’s an underlayment to the siding or the siding itself. That exterior wall will be a tiled shower with a waterproof membrane behind the tile - ceiling to floor, wall-to-wall. Is it OK to put rockwool behind the waterproofing and tile? I don’t want to create vapor/moisture issues! Located in climate zone 3. (I’m posting links to your videos left and right to our next-door neighborhood site when people are talking about replacing old historic windows. Delighted to find your videos. Even before I did, I was resisting people telling me I needed to replace my windows because I love the look of the old, wavy glass and beautiful windows. Now I have good substantiation for it being a good decision! Thanks so much!)
Great video. Thank you. I am surprised air leakage is not on the list here. I was in Virginia last week at my son-in-law's 1920 house and did a bunch of handyman repairs. When I put my hand at an outlet or light fixture box, I felt a bunch of breeze shooting into the house. I wonder if this is this not as big a deal like the less than 10% of window area in the video.
Thank you so much for making these videos. It is such a great source of knowledge when you're trying to restore a vernacular home built in 1909. We're in southern Ontario so insulating has been on our to do list. I now know that proper airflow is a key factor in older homes. On that note, I noticed in another video that Matt used the delta membrane to create a gap, but you also mentioned the cedar breather underlayment. Between the two, is one more preferable for colder climates?
The dimple mat is just 1 of many products that can be used to create an air gap between insulation and siding. You can use wood cleats, or whatever helps. Good luck.
Youve really changed my mind on using spray foam for my attic in my 1915 home. With that said, my question is this, my house has a large unfinished walk up attic that id like to covert for more living space. currently the roof surface is uninsulated and blown in insulation fills the 2x6 cavities of the attics floor joists. The roof is made up of 2×4s. How would you go about insulating the roof to be able to make the space comfortable for living space in wisconsin?
We recently completed a payback period calculation for a 50,000 sq ft historic building to install EnergyStar rated storm windows - as soon as 5 years. After that, they could potentially be saving $25,000/yr in energy costs alone!
I want to by my Grandmas old house it currently has no heat or ac. I have many telling me it would be crazy. It probably had no insulation and proably needs all new electrics. It does have an unfinished basement. Can you insulate with rockwall through the attic?
Thank you for all the restoration videos. I have a 1900's farm house and is a mix of renovation efforts over the years. The insulation problem/question is of interest to me. The hard part (for me) is to decipher the way forward. The windows are modern, part of the house is a new construction addition (2007), part of the house is Aluminum siding, the rest is vinyl overtop of original clapboard; inside is unmolested slat and horse hair plaster...that has 1970's paneling installed overtop of. I'm looking at a major renovation if I even want to attempt the wall insulation.
Hi there! Great info here. We recently purchased a double-brick house that an architect built to be his own home in 1942. The outfit homeowners have done some renovations on the home, but unfortunately i don't think they did a particularly good job based on some of the things I've noticed based on what I've seen. In any case one big issue we are trying to figure out is how to better seal the attic from the rest of the house while allowing it to ventilate properly to preserve the hard slate roof. My initial thought was to seal the attic floor and use closed-cell foam on the floor but your comment on moisture getting trapped in the ceiling is giving me second thoughts! Currently they have some old cellulose that's mostly degraded and batts of fiberglass insulation. We went to improve it somehow to prevent the formation of ice dams during the winter when rising warm air melts the snow at the top of the roof. Any ideas or tips on that?
Thank you Brent! Also, that $40,000 you spend on replacement windows, thats why they are called "replacement". They will need to be replaced, eventually. Is knocked off the value of the home. I saw this from an agent, "Oh! Plastic windows! Thats $50,000 off the value of your home."
I blew 14in of cellulose into the attic of a 100-year old house seventeen years ago, and over time it has settled down to about 8in. It was still money well-spent and I will add another 8 or 10 in to it soon. Cellulose is inexpensive and it is also easy for a homeowner to blow it in themselves. Usually the machine comes with a large purchase of the product. I have also successfully blown this stuff into the wall cavities. On a balloon frame house the wall cavity is accessible from the attic. Or removing the top clapboard on the exterior can give you access. As far as a crawl space, here's where we might differ slightly. I will install plastic on the ground continuous and tape the joints, lapping the plastic up on the exterior walls by about 6 in. Then I will use rigid foam insulation panels 3in thick, polyisocyanurate, for an r18 value. Insulating the perimeter of the crawl space instead of insulating the floor will allow the ground temperature to partially regulate the temperature of the house. In my area the ground temperature is 54 degrees, so it is like having an air conditioner going below your feet in the summertime. Cool and dry is a nice crawl space environment.
I have a 1906 Victorian farm house and through my renovation I’ve discovered that all the exterior walls are packed with blown in fiberglass. I have no idea how they did it because the stud bays are all blocked with top and bottom plates. They can’t have removed the plaster to fill the bays because it’s all original horse hair plaster work. Maybe they removed a few exterior boards in the 1950s and pumped it in that way? In any case, your videos have really helped and inspired my renovation!
@@susangrande8142it is. The house has never had hvac until i installed it recently. I’m a bit concerned about moisture in the walls but will have to wait and see.
They insulated the walls of our house by drilling 1" holes through the exterior and blowing it in. Lots of the 1" (now plugged) holes are still visible. Used to be a really common method.
@@mauriciocurbelo0123 yep. 👍 I regularly see an old house in my city that has the brick look asbestos siding, that has those 1 inch holes in it in a row around the house, just under the soffit. It still looks kinda funny.
depends on how much money you wanna spend of course.. if you are pulling the house back to the frames.. then fill all the walls with insulation.. moisture barrier paper.. again more money add more insulation.. 2. YES.. under the house moisture sheets and of course close off any gaps where wind can get through and insulate under the floors.. money>? add underfloor heating if you can.. 3. Ceilings.. more insulation the better again.. 4. windows?? well... tricky question.. double glaze them and insulate around the windows, fill all cracks... expensive.. just repair around the windows, fill all cracks and reduce as much wind coming through as possible... buy thick thermal curtains.. they work wonders and look great... heat the home...
i would love to see info on if insulation in old houses is harmful in ways other than money or character. i have a house in MN built in 1899/1900, but it has had numerous owners and partial repairs and upgrades etc. it is currently in desperate need of repairs and parts of it will be opened up to fix stuff and i am trying to decide if i should insulate any spaces that have to be opened before they get closed up again. and with what kind of insulation (keeping a super tight budget in mind, but also ability to delay closing the walls to wait til somethig is affordable). curious about a lot of things trying to restore a home, but also make sure it lasts and is comfy as well as sound... without costing a million dollars. like new lathe & plaster versus drywall, replacing windows that were updated badly to either salvaged period ones or new production recreations, and more. or if one was building a new cabin with old techniques deciding what choices would be more economical in the short and long runs... with my developmental disabilities, i always get tripped up thinking about those things... fight between wanting to do it right the first time and poverty lol.
Well, insulation is one of the cheapest ways to make a house comfortable. I suspect fiberglass is the cheapest. Although if you can spring for Rockwool or Cellulose i would. Good luck.
@@BrentHull but do you think because the way old homes were made that it could be risky on outer walls? Rockwool can do better with moisture than others I think. But am I risking having to open the walls up again by putting insulation in an old house that doesn't have modern barriers on the outside of house?
I have a 1923 duplex that I live in and rent out the other side. I've been here for almost 21 years and JUST peaked in the attic for the first time last week. I didn't climb into it but was about waist-high looking in. It's a lot of (unused space). What if after blowing cellulose in, something needs to be done up there? No idea what since the only thing I've had done is the chimney had to be removed from the attic floor up. In Sept 2022 I put two mini splits on my side and one in the rental, so no true HVAC system. It gets really cold and really hot in here. I almost blew in insulation into the walls, but more so to try and dampen some of the sound from tenants.
Do you recommend insulating between the roof joists with rock wool in addition to insulating in the ceiling with cellulose? I have a 1930s house with blown-in cellulose insulation already in the ceiling, but do not have anything in between the structural joists of the pitched roof itself. For refence, the house is in Denver, CO, so winters are cold and summers are quite hot. Thanks!
It depends. Is your HVAC unit in the attic? If so, I would consider removing the insulation in the ceiling joist and moving insulation into the roof rafters. This can condition the attic space and make your units run more efficiently. Thanks.
Wow we bought my mom’s house which I grew up in and my husband immediately had windows installed- that’s over and done with. Now I have termite inspection yearly and each time I am told that I need a vapor barrier on the dirt underneath my 1870s balloon frame railroad house. What do you suggest? Pleaseeeee
If your house is up on blocks and there is clear airflow I probably wouldn't. If you have an enclosed crawlspace I believe I would use a product like stego crawl. Good luck.
Is it ever appropriate (in a colder climate) to place a vapor barrier on the inside of an exterior wall in an old house? We have cellulose in the walls, and a vapor barrier between the sheetrock and plaster/wood walls. I don't think there's a moisture barrier on the outside, just dutchlap covered by failing LP siding that we'll be removing soon. I'm worried about breathability and the potential for mold and rot problems.
Yes, me too. I know that is what we did in Canada 30 years ago, but I don't know if that thinking has changed. Sorry, not my climate zone area of knowledge.
Would love some thoughts on incorporating modern technology with historic builds. How can we take these builds to the next level”next level”? Energy independence comes to mind, because we all use electricity so much, can we incorporate solar into historic designs?
I have a 900 sq ft single family home, built in 1927. It has no "historic" value, per se. I have what appears to be vermiculite insulation in the attic. I'm being told that I need to have a licensed remediation company remove that vermiculite, because it's supposedly contaminated with asbestos. I can't afford to do that. Do I have any other options? I'm 72 years old and a permanently disabled veteran. Suggestions would be appreciated. thanks.
@@BrentHull Wouldn't that kick up a lot of dust? Is there such a thing as a low pressure blower? Or, would i have to just dump it in free-flow, without using a blower? Thanks
on average, what is the last year you would feel comfortable purchasing an old home? While obviously there's great and poor house choices in every year range what would be the year range you would need to really inspect closely before being persuaded to purchase in those year ranges. We typically hear the 1970's or late 60's in when craft really falls off. Is that your opinion as well?
I have a colonial home in Maine that was insulated with corn cobs. I thought I had a rat infestation when I first bought the house then it dawned on me
@@BrentHull Honestly thank you for creating this channel. I'm a plasterer with a passion for woodworking. After finding your channel I bought said house and have been restoring it with as much historical integrity as I can afford. Working on milling & replacing all moulding currently and your channel has been invaluable.
In UK they are building cardboard boxes with plasterworks and outside breezblocks. Then they charge hundreds of thousands for these boxes which cost less than a fraction of cost to build. Deception and corruption is the building or construction industry in UK. Never buy a property as the law says your mortgage is due before the ink is dry on your contract!!!
A real shame so many people fall for the double-pane window scam! Paying more up front only to have the seals go out. These window companies sure have exaggerated how efficient they are as well. Making people think they will cut their power bill in half.
Totally agree-window replacement is a scam and shouldn’t be done unless the old windows can’t be refurbished. Insulation in an old house is tough. It’s really about controlling air infiltration and foam is the best at that, but it does have its drawbacks. If not using foam, I think a dense-pack cellulose would be the best because it fits into the wall cavity to seal it up.
After purchasing a 1914 bungalow in 1985 I decided to do nothing with it until I was there for a while. I did not want to do anything to it I could not reverse. So I went with cellulose, added a dormer with fiberglass insulation and foam board. That tightened up the envelope considerably. We installed an 'efficient' HVAC one each for the two levels. Interestingly we had a gravity feed duct work system. You made it sound as though that was unusual but most of the 4 square versions of the houses in the midwest I believe had systems like this for coal burners. Wiring something like this house is crazy and you do it while you can. I have some knob and tube lights but I don't want to drop the lathe and mortar ceiling on the main floor. So my question is; with a full basement whose integrity is not the best, what kind of impact is it having on my overall energy expenditure? And what can I do to mitigate it. Is this a sill plate solution? How much really does that help? No insulation in there now. Should I leave the cement block walls the way they are or frame them in and insulate? And the floor, 10 feet down. What do i do with that? How about filling us in on what you would do. I need a basement solution. We do have our laundry, pantry (old coal room) and a small shop down there with 750 square feet x 10 feet. Show me how to do this.
I can only suggest a small thing; you’re asking for a lot of info in this comment. My brother is an energy rater, and when he was working on my 1926 bungalow house, he put fiberglass insulation batts against the basement walls, from the subflooring (the sill plate) down to the soil level outside. (This house is in Nebraska, where we have 4 seasons with big temperature swings.) Our house foundation is brick. This would be very easily reversible. I don’t know what you mean by a sill plate solution. The other thing I would suggest is to get your foundation’s structural integrity (if I understand you correctly) restored before you do anything else. I have no idea if this would help you.
Good question. I'll address basements in future episodes. The quick answer is to fix those areas that you can. In an ideal world you, take it out and seal and insulate. The problem is that it can be cost prohibitive and not worth it. I would insulate your floor joists and then let that be a cold space.
Yeah if your house is wrapped (modern) you can consider spray foam. But Lordy, think about what comes after. The rest of us need hydrophobic stuff like mineral wool, seal up where you can and call it a day. Depending on where you are, you should pay attention to vapor barriers.
After working on old houses I have come to the conclusion that older craftsmen is superior to today’s products. Things were built to last while todays products are purposely made to fail. They can’t keep making money on products that last over twenty years.
I disagree with the statement that you would be messing up the historical integrity of the house if you insulated the interior (only. Not talking about the exterior). Only very very few old houses have craftsmanship that surpasses what a good worker can do today. Most have old plaster walls that can be replicated with drywall and paint or plaster if you really want to (for no good reason). Same exact look. Same with wood trim.
I'm restoring a 1906 two story farmhouse. Your videos are very helpful!!!
Great to hear. Thanks.
Nice to hear someone who has done some research come out "against" spray foam... Seems like everyone is all about spray foam- I'm on the fence because there hasn't been much research done... Glad to see someone with their own opinion on these things! 🍻
Glad it helps!
I just bought a 1960's home with full brick, 2x6 primary framing, concrete and block foundation- copper piping, etc. The previous owner used spray foam between the window roughings, and air blows right thru it!
Yes indeed. turning your residence into a greenhouse via spray foam requires very elaborate and expensive air exhange HVAC systems and a dehumidifier. Insulated sheathing, air sealing, mineral wool insulation in the stud bays, and good insulation in a vented attic makes homes very temperature efficient w/ traditional forced air HVAC.
@@Natedoc808 Proper batt insulation and air sealing aims to bring the same performance as closed cell foam alone. So how is your air exchange system not going to need to be upgraded as well?
I'm not sure that he made a lot of research on that. Need a building science consultant to really get to the bottom for your house IMO.
Restoring two 1880’s farm houses in Maine where we need to retain our heat. Finally someone addressing the effects of insulation on an old home and how to navigate it.
Thanks! Good luck.
I’ve kept my old 1940 windows in my house in Pensacola. I’ve even cleaned up the original hardware and put it back on.
I bet that looks great. Thanks for sharing!
In Sweden, northern Europe, it was common to use saw dust as insulation and clay as air barrier. Both also store moisture and heat.
very cool. Thanks for sharing.
Agree on insulating being the best bang for the buck, and I'd add that air sealing an attic floor prior to installing insulation is also quite beneficial. Though I wouldn't call these insulations "vapor barriers". I think the intentional vapor-open profile of these insulations in older homes is what's helps keep them dry (and is a reason why spray foam can cause problems in these applications).
On windows, I'd say the install value is much more about comfort more than cost savings. It certainly affects the historic appearance of the house, so it's a tradeoff of comfort vs cost and appearance. I personally would pay more for the comfort benefits (being from MN) and then reduce costs a little by installing fixed windows in strategic spots, as fixed windows tend to be both less expensive and slightly more efficient than windows that can open.
Thanks, great points. It is a balance.
Love these breakdowns. 40 years pay off for something that lasts 20 years! It's a no brainer, hopefully the costs come down and it makes financial sense one day.
Nice. Thanks.
I will hopefully start the renovation / restoration of a 1830’s 2 over 2 home in the next 60 days! So excited! Kitchen added on in 1942, bathroom added on in 1955, large addition added on 1990s. It’s going to be fun!
Hope your property is not in UK as i ran into trouble with the Listed Building people whilst trying to renovate a Grade 2 * listed Georgian Mansion. They know how to screw up your life works and projects.
Sounds great! Good luck.
Thanks for reiterating these important items and clarifications. To share a little something. I live in a tiny, tiny, tiny, (did I say tiny?) cabin that I didn't build, it was on the property, it was intended as a weekender to stay at while they are enjoying the lake. Here are the layers: Walls: hardy siding, tar paper, 2x4 studs, R13 fiberglass insulation and 3/8" wood paneling. Also on pier and beam foundation. Roof: Roof shingles, tar paper, 1/2" OSB, R19 FGI, 2x6" joists, 3/8" wood paneling. After being here 10 years and fixtures needed to be replaced I started to work on it. So it's good to have someone like you on the youtube to help this hack along :-).
Ha, well that is interesting. Good luck!
Great stuff. Window comments are bang on. Our old farmhouse hasn’t got the original wooden sashes and we are looking at glazing failures within 25/30 years. Our insulation is sawmill chips in the inner stud walls. Three layer brick walls so really hard to improve insulation except in the attic. Should probably add another layer up there. Good building all you fellow old house owners.
Thanks so much!
I’m looking at wool insulation in the attic.
just moved from a beloved 1860 historic town home in Frederic MD which was fairly energy efficient to a 1968 town home in Leesburg VA which feels like living in a wind tunnel. I am working sealing up gaps where ever I find them such as caulking everything that is possible. Wall outlets and plugs and around doorways and windows and air vents. It is amazing how much air was coming in from the gaps on the outer edges of the vents. I used plumbers putty to seal up those gaps. The windows I am dealing with by putting up window coverings heavy enough to block the cold air and opening them let in warming sunshine when appropriate.
Crazy. Good luck.
A study done by a Swedish painter, Hans Albeck showed the newest windows with their high price were only a few percent more efficient than the 150 year old Swedish wood windows. He spent his life restoring the old windows and making them tighter and more resistant to the elements. He got deathly ill from the paint chemicals and had to quit work to recover his health. During the recovery he researched the way paint used to be made and learned that linseed oil paint with ground rocks for color was the paint used for hundreds of years. So he started making his own paint. I have used this paint on whole houses and windows. The paint soaks into the wood and it never fades in the sun and it never peels. And the windows refurbished with linseed oil putty and oil will outlast the new windows at a fraction of the cost.
Thanks for sharing. Very true!!
I am also using linseed oil paint for this very reason -- would be great to see a video on this, too! Modern paints are a huge killer of historic buildings and I wished it was more common knowledge. Not to mention the horrible chemicals that go into making modern paints.
@@taylorjensen6181 You can get more information about paint from Viking Sales in Victor NY. That is where I buy my paint.
I like your video style and music. Great for your old house videos.
Glad you enjoy it!
This is a relief. I got a window estimate from some guy going door to door and it was supposedly $60k for 17 windows in my 1959 house. They were willing to do it for $30k at 9% lolol. The guy was shocked when I laughed at how high the interest rate was. I will probably still replace my aluminum double windows because they are broken (glazing coming off) and I can’t find anyone who repairs - only replaces. But it’s good to know I can just do the ones that I want without or it compromising the efficiency. Thank you!
Glad it helped. Good luck.
I have a pre-1780s house. The walls are 2ft thick stone on the ground floor, and the tudor style wood beams on the top. Walls are as thick as the materials used so barely any heat retention and the windows are at least 100 yrs old. Luckily we have a lot of secondary glazing. Looking forward to renovating!
Wow. Lucky you. Have fun.
Great video. I find that people get caught up chasing the % efficiency of their HVAC, the R-value of their insulation, etc when really the only metric that matters is *dollars* spent on your energy bill. So people spend thousands on new windows to get their bill from $200/month to $150 or whatever. Makes no sense.
Another pitfall is that lots of people's experience with older homes, especially in more expensive markets, is from living in some neglected basement unit, so they end up thinking all historic homes are drafty, cold, and uncomfortable having never sat next to an old window that's been properly restored and weatherstripped.
And the building industry has done a great job convincing people that single pane windows are an emergency that has to be dealt with as soon as you buy a house. It's crazy
So true. I agree.
Thanks Brent for all your effort and great content. I'm from Germany so our way of building is really different and we kind of lost the good taste in building. Nevertheless I love your knowledge of craftmanship.
Thank you for watching and the feedback.
Finally, someone who understands old homes. 1880's miners shack in bisbee Arizona here And a 1920's bungalow (no character, lol)
Thank you. Cheers.
Excellent video and info. I have a 1926 Dutch colonial with no insulation. Long term I’d like to replace aluminum siding and add self-adhering building wrap and exterior insulation. Until then, one simple thing I’ve done is try to improve air sealing for my windows, doors, and any penetrations on exterior walls and ceilings such as outlets, switches, and lights. This has resulted in a noticeable reduction in energy bills and improvement in comfort for minimal cost.
👍 Excellent! My brother is an energy rater for houses, and does blower door testing and remediation. I had him do a lot of this kind of thing on my 1926 bungalow house, and it made the house more comfortable and efficient. It has no wall insulation, except fiberglass next to the foundation that’s above ground level in the basement. Which my brother put in.
Thanks for the info!!
Nice!
I agree across-the-board with everything you've said here Brent. To add a little I have had good luck with sealers that you brush onto the concrete, and then taping and plasticing...
Nice, thanks for sharing!
😂😂😂Thank you for this video. About to sign a Pella's contract for about 68k on windows. I am restoring my own windows.
Oh MY!! So glad. You can do it!
I'd liked 2 have seen u making the classic house energy efficient. What u actually did us the preparation etc...
noted. thanks.
Wow. What a wealth of knowledge. I had to subscribe. Thank you for explaining the “why.”
Thanks for the sub!
I about to begin building my own house by myself here in the rocky mountains. It gets very cold here during the winters. I've been here a few years already preparing for it all. I'm originally from Dallas and lived in the deep south for half of my life, that swampy humid climate. So this has taken some getting used to here.
I'm a fan of historic things. Restored classic cars for years. Always original is best. I hate modern day anything. It's just who I am.
I will be building a simple and modest four square style house with a pyramid hip roof. I plan to absolutely build it the historic way, meaning little to no insulation. Keeping it very simple and original as they did back then say in the 1800s to 1920s. Making my own doors, windows, cabinets, counter tops etc. no screws, no concrete, no modern day anything. Using actual cuts in my lumber that will come from the San Juan mountains and milled by the Amish. Beatle Kill Doug Fir all the way. Non pressure treated. No plywood or OSB. It will be of post and beams type construction with basalt stone as a facade base around the bottom of the house. The stones came right out of my own yard. I dug them all up myself. Everything is by myself 100 percent all the way. I will be framing my own windows. I had to learn to do this and studied hard for 4 years prior to this.
No screws, only nails, high quality hand driven with a hammer.
I've been doing some last minute research on insulation etc. and as always if you ask some modern day person about the subject they have made it into some kind of over complicated expensive mess yet most don't seem to know anything except buying stuff from some massive bloat corporation and gluing it on. It's all just too much too much trouble for me.
I've been living out here for three years. First in a car for a year and then in a non insulated 35 year old truck camper for past two years.
What I've learned is this:
You don't actually need insulation. Maybe a small amount, but not much. The floor and maybe the roof is all you actually need if that at all. Seriously. Control the drafts, have a decent space heater or the like and put on a few layers of clothes and you're good to go. The winter is only for a season for which the peak is even shorter. You actually become very accustomed to the climate after a few years and it's not so bad anymore. We are very spoiled in this day and age and that's are down fall. I'm in a high desert climate here. Out of the entire year on about 8 weeks are harsh
The rest of the time is nice! It was only hard when I first got here. Now it's a joy.
Regular plain Jane insulation in the floors or fiberglass or Rockwool will work fine. Even recycled news paper will work too. Moisture there won't be any issues. How could it be? The roof in my house will not have any attic. It's all opened up to the top for which the peak is 16 feet from the floor! I'm thinking about putting some double bubble wrap insulation, but then again, maybe not. And in the walls there will be no insulation at all. Even still this will actually be warmer than the camper I'm in and this really isn't even that bad to me anymore. Like I said. Only for 8 weeks does it really suck and I've learned to hunker down and hack it.
The warm seasons are nice to me and no problems at all. Opening screened windows and running a fan takes care of that, but I've never actually ran a fan yet either. It's cheap though and clean energy. I'm completely 100 percent off grid here. All the way. Have a small solar system and a generator.
my entire house turn key ready will only cost about 8 to 10 grand! It will be very high quality and old timey. The way I like it. Simple and easy too. And very long lasting. It will be about 600 square feet which is plenty for me. If I wanted more than I could have more. I will also be building a few more structures too because I enjoy the village feel of that.
I'm still learning too as much as I can as often as I can, but it's amazing how much I can tell you now about building. I've read a lot of great old books and watched countless hours of videos about pretty much every type of construction technique and method ever used all over the world from the very beginnings of time up until now and all points in between. It's been amazing.
Often times you think you need something when you actually don't. The modern day construction industry thrives on your fear and ignorance and lack of confidence. They sell you all of these supposedly great new things that are most usually garbage and by far too much money and it's never ending. They have a vested interest in you not knowing or understanding things. The less you know the more they can extract your money from you. They want you to believe it's too difficult for you to do on your own. They want the information hard to find and confusing. They want the government to control you so that you are forced to run to them. Etc
Etc. it's all just a scam as always.
Modern day homes are complete rubbish compared to older homes that have stood the test of time. Sometimes hundreds of even thousands of years old.
It takes knowledge. It takes effort. It takes patience. It takes work too. But not a lot of money. Its worth far more than money. You can absolutely do it too!
In order to understand the future than look to the past.
A major part of what has made us weak as a nation and a people is that we are too dependant on corporations for our lively hoods. You have the power to change all of that!
Learn to do things for yourself and then freely give away to others that for which you've learned.
Thanks, hope you got something new out of this as well.
Also I wanted to add a couple more things about the house, sorry it's early here and just woke up. That's why I have so many misspelled words too. Too tired to retype them. Lol
The outside walls of my house will be stucco. Plank boards, tar paper, chicken wire, cement base and stucco. It's all mixed from this family owned stone company in my town. They have amazing stone there and real adobe bricks and are very old and experts in these matters.
The interior walls will all be lathe boards and lime based plaster. Not using any horse hair though. It will all be hand mixed carefully a little at a time and applied by myself of course. After that paint if I desire. The floors will all be 2 inch x 6 inch actual cut and applied horizontally and this is the sub floor. Hard wood or tiles on top of that. No tongue and groove anything. The roof will be same individual planks with tar paper and maybe double bubble and then very old fashioned asphalt shingles diamond pattern either green or multi colored. I will have a 2 foot overhang all the way around.
The walls will be 8 foot tall around the entire house and reaching up to 16 feet tall toward the center of the house giving me an 8/12 pitch. All of the roof framing will be exposed too. All of the doors will have cast iron external mounted hardware with white porcelain handle and skeleton keys and interior solid long boards for locks just like an old castle.
I've invented my own water system and electrical system too which is very unique.
I have no HOA and I have no codes here. I am my own land outright and walk around naked much of the time as bold eagles fly over my head and 200 wild mustangs run through the yard. It's impressive to say the least. I can go 3 full months before seeing another human being out here!
Ok, just wanted to add that little tid bit for you.
Keep your head up. Don't give up. God is good.
Wow, very interesting. Good luck.
wonderful read all the best!
I've been 15mos in a 3400sf 2story 1895 gem in midstate SC. 1st energy bill was $900! Decided to put pink r30 in attic & r19 under 1st floor (can no longer see crawl space thru hardwood!). Unfortunately, a cold winter here but I can now keep 1st floor at 70/upper 68 & it's livable. Bills down about $100 so far. Saving grace is it costs next to nothing to cool. I just keep the sun out & it stays nice & cool. Love this old girl!
Ok, great stuff. Thanks so much for sharing.
Been there done that with the door lock. Another fantastic detail rich job!
Well done! Thanks.
Neighbor had a beautiful 1800 2500sqft house here in ct. 25 years ago spent then about $100k replacing windows, filling cavities with cellulose, digging drains outside and French drains int ehbaswnt, lifted the house for capillary breaks on the sills etc. within a decade they tore out all the insulation because of the rot and mold
I believe it. Thx for sharing.
Brent,
Absolutely love your honesty on the subject of windows! Thanks.
I appreciate that! Thanks.
Interesting video I never thought of it that way in terms of the SQ footage, however I have very poor quality builder grade windows that don’t close properly that are 30 years old they are plastic material. I think it would still make sense to replace them with a fiberglass material window
So your windows aren't historic, then I agree the cheap plastic are not a great solution.
Great video. Thank you so much! I am in the process of buying a 100 year old farmhouse and hope to renovate it (termite damage in the walls, asbestos siding etc...). I originally wanted the land, but when I realized the house had all the original unpainted doors/windows/hardware it was just too charming to resist restoring it. This helps a lot as the insulation question has been a big concern.
Glad it was helpful! Good luck!
The previous owners of my 1880 folk Victorian house had cellulose insulation blown into the wall cavities and replaced the windows with modern vinyl ones. Even when it was 10 degrees outside, it took 2-3 days for it to get cold inside when I had to have my breaker box replaced due to a water leak from the service line.
Ok.
In this video, you say around 6:23 that cellulose and rockwool are a vapor barrier. In the reading I've been doing at Green Building Advisor they usually say the soft and fluffy stuff is not a vapor barrier and you need a vapor barrier if you insulate. Do you disagree with that?
I am contemplating insulating my attic, which was insulated poorly many decades ago. I was thinking of adding an air (vapor?) membrane to my roof, 2 layers of rigid foam on top and then vent channels and finally asphalt shingles. Inside the house, I was thinking of filling my rafter bays with something like cellulose or rock woool or open cell spray foam. This "hybrid roof assembly" would have the air (vapor?) barrier of the roofing membrane and rigid foam so the roof planks and insulation can dry to the inside. Have you done this?
Thanks, those are not vapor barriers. I would be really focused on what you are trying to accomplish in your old house. Do you want it to last a long time or do you want it to perform. It will never be a passive house and my focus would be to improve energy efficiency but maintain the life expectancy. Adding an air barrier can keep the attic from drying out if it gets wet. If it can't dry out, it will fail. If you are hoping the roof dries to the inside you need to move air in the attic area, which I think defeats the point. Its confusing because there are a lot of different messages out there. Thanks.
This was sooooooooo incredibly helpful! Although I did just get spray foam insulation in my rim joists in the basement of my 114yo home :/
Closed cell foam hopefully. That is ok.
The double hung wood windows in my '41 home will stay. Every one has been in good enough shape to restore.
I have operational storm windows on those I wish to open for ventilation. A corner window double hung setup was replaced with glass block when the room became a bathroom.
The operational storms have been prepared and painted to match the wood sash and trim to be as unobtrusive as possible.
For gosh sakes people..follow this man's advice! Those wood windows are jewels. Don't discard them.
Thanks for another great video.
Thanks so much.
100% wise and accurate recommendations.
Thank you!
I have a small (1092sq ft), 1927 Bungalow. I have 19 big windows. A few of my windows were replaced (new homeowner's ignorance), the majority have not been and I don't plan to. I still have the original windows in my basement and I hope to put them back when I come into some bucks. My windows have that wavy look which I just discovered! Just had all the ropes in my windows fixed so my windows stay open! Did some caulking. I'm going to look into your window videos...I think the top parts of the windows were painted shut. I feel very lucky to have such a great house in such good condition. It didn't have a lot of owners and was well built originally. You couldn't give me a new house.
Kindred spirit. So glad for you.
Yes, indeed! Keep those old beautiful sash windows! Insulation between your attic and basement joists. Don’t ruin your legacy house with remodels that are in today and out tomorrow!
Agreed. Thanks.
Redoing a bathroom in a 1926 house. Right now it is gutted. The exterior wall you can see the back of the wood planks - not sure if it’s an underlayment to the siding or the siding itself. That exterior wall will be a tiled shower with a waterproof membrane behind the tile - ceiling to floor, wall-to-wall. Is it OK to put rockwool behind the waterproofing and tile? I don’t want to create vapor/moisture issues! Located in climate zone 3. (I’m posting links to your videos left and right to our next-door neighborhood site when people are talking about replacing old historic windows. Delighted to find your videos. Even before I did, I was resisting people telling me I needed to replace my windows because I love the look of the old, wavy glass and beautiful windows. Now I have good substantiation for it being a good decision! Thanks so much!)
Nice, thanks for the feedback and for sharing. Yes, Rockwool is a good choice.
What about replacing the simple glass in the windows with laminated glass to improve insulation??
Greetings from Buenos Aires 🙂
Laminated glass, to my knowledge, doesn't improve insulation. It improves sound transmission.
Great education! Your content is extremely helpful. Thanks!!!
Glad it is helpful. Thanks
Great video. Thank you. I am surprised air leakage is not on the list here. I was in Virginia last week at my son-in-law's 1920 house and did a bunch of handyman repairs. When I put my hand at an outlet or light fixture box, I felt a bunch of breeze shooting into the house. I wonder if this is this not as big a deal like the less than 10% of window area in the video.
It will depend on the house, the cladding, when it was built, etc.
Thanks for another great video
Thanks for watching!
Should I use a dimple mat in the wall cavities with the rock wool insulation?
We did, it creates a nice air gap. You can create the airgap in other ways but the dimple mat is a good choice.
@@BrentHull thank you
Thank you so much for making these videos. It is such a great source of knowledge when you're trying to restore a vernacular home built in 1909. We're in southern Ontario so insulating has been on our to do list. I now know that proper airflow is a key factor in older homes. On that note, I noticed in another video that Matt used the delta membrane to create a gap, but you also mentioned the cedar breather underlayment. Between the two, is one more preferable for colder climates?
Good question. I just don't know about colder climates.
What type/brand dimple mat do you use with rock wool to insulate old house with old siding, plaster removed?
The dimple mat is just 1 of many products that can be used to create an air gap between insulation and siding. You can use wood cleats, or whatever helps. Good luck.
Youve really changed my mind on using spray foam for my attic in my 1915 home. With that said, my question is this, my house has a large unfinished walk up attic that id like to covert for more living space. currently the roof surface is uninsulated and blown in insulation fills the 2x6 cavities of the attics floor joists. The roof is made up of 2×4s. How would you go about insulating the roof to be able to make the space comfortable for living space in wisconsin?
I would still insulate, but would use cellulose or Rockwool to get the space conditioned. Good insulation will still be a huge improvement. Good luck.
Great info !! Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
We recently completed a payback period calculation for a 50,000 sq ft historic building to install EnergyStar rated storm windows - as soon as 5 years. After that, they could potentially be saving $25,000/yr in energy costs alone!
Would love to see that. Thanks.
I want to by my Grandmas old house it currently has no heat or ac. I have many telling me it would be crazy. It probably had no insulation and proably needs all new electrics. It does have an unfinished basement. Can you insulate with rockwall through the attic?
Yes and I would encourage the purchase of an old house vs a new one.
would you recommend blowing in the cellulose to outside walls of 1858 home?
Yes, of course it depends. On the exterior cladding, interior walls, etc.
Over here in the UK there are companies that will reglaze and rebalance existing wood sashes with 7mm vacuum sealed glass units.
I think vacuum sealed glass is the future.
Thank you for all the restoration videos. I have a 1900's farm house and is a mix of renovation efforts over the years. The insulation problem/question is of interest to me. The hard part (for me) is to decipher the way forward. The windows are modern, part of the house is a new construction addition (2007), part of the house is Aluminum siding, the rest is vinyl overtop of original clapboard; inside is unmolested slat and horse hair plaster...that has 1970's paneling installed overtop of. I'm looking at a major renovation if I even want to attempt the wall insulation.
Understood. A lot to consider. Depending on your climate, it may not be a top priority.
Hi there! Great info here. We recently purchased a double-brick house that an architect built to be his own home in 1942. The outfit homeowners have done some renovations on the home, but unfortunately i don't think they did a particularly good job based on some of the things I've noticed based on what I've seen.
In any case one big issue we are trying to figure out is how to better seal the attic from the rest of the house while allowing it to ventilate properly to preserve the hard slate roof. My initial thought was to seal the attic floor and use closed-cell foam on the floor but your comment on moisture getting trapped in the ceiling is giving me second thoughts! Currently they have some old cellulose that's mostly degraded and batts of fiberglass insulation. We went to improve it somehow to prevent the formation of ice dams during the winter when rising warm air melts the snow at the top of the roof. Any ideas or tips on that?
It sounds like you're in a cold climate, if it were mine I would seal the ceiling joists with cellulose and be done with it. I would not use foam.
Thank you Brent! Also, that $40,000 you spend on replacement windows, thats why they are called "replacement". They will need to be replaced, eventually. Is knocked off the value of the home. I saw this from an agent, "Oh! Plastic windows! Thats $50,000 off the value of your home."
Word!
To clarify, keeping old siding but plaster has been removed. Like the video on dimple mat and rock wool but looking for what dimple mat to use.
It doesn't matter. The air gap is the point. Whatever works. GOod luck.
I blew 14in of cellulose into the attic of a 100-year old house seventeen years ago, and over time it has settled down to about 8in. It was still money well-spent and I will add another 8 or 10 in to it soon. Cellulose is inexpensive and it is also easy for a homeowner to blow it in themselves. Usually the machine comes with a large purchase of the product.
I have also successfully blown this stuff into the wall cavities. On a balloon frame house the wall cavity is accessible from the attic. Or removing the top clapboard on the exterior can give you access.
As far as a crawl space, here's where we might differ slightly. I will install plastic on the ground continuous and tape the joints, lapping the plastic up on the exterior walls by about 6 in. Then I will use rigid foam insulation panels 3in thick, polyisocyanurate, for an r18 value. Insulating the perimeter of the crawl space instead of insulating the floor will allow the ground temperature to partially regulate the temperature of the house. In my area the ground temperature is 54 degrees, so it is like having an air conditioner going below your feet in the summertime. Cool and dry is a nice crawl space environment.
Well done. Thanks for sharing.
I have a 1906 Victorian farm house and through my renovation I’ve discovered that all the exterior walls are packed with blown in fiberglass. I have no idea how they did it because the stud bays are all blocked with top and bottom plates.
They can’t have removed the plaster to fill the bays because it’s all original horse hair plaster work. Maybe they removed a few exterior boards in the 1950s and pumped it in that way?
In any case, your videos have really helped and inspired my renovation!
Is the exterior of your house clapboard? If so, your guess sounds entirely possible to me.
@@susangrande8142it is. The house has never had hvac until i installed it recently. I’m a bit concerned about moisture in the walls but will have to wait and see.
Nice, so glad to hear it. Yes, I suspect your theory is right.
They insulated the walls of our house by drilling 1" holes through the exterior and blowing it in. Lots of the 1" (now plugged) holes are still visible. Used to be a really common method.
@@mauriciocurbelo0123 yep. 👍 I regularly see an old house in my city that has the brick look asbestos siding, that has those 1 inch holes in it in a row around the house, just under the soffit. It still looks kinda funny.
depends on how much money you wanna spend of course..
if you are pulling the house back to the frames.. then fill all the walls with insulation.. moisture barrier paper.. again more money add more insulation..
2. YES.. under the house moisture sheets and of course close off any gaps where wind can get through and insulate under the floors..
money>? add underfloor heating if you can..
3. Ceilings.. more insulation the better again..
4. windows?? well... tricky question.. double glaze them and insulate around the windows, fill all cracks... expensive..
just repair around the windows, fill all cracks and reduce as much wind coming through as possible...
buy thick thermal curtains.. they work wonders and look great...
heat the home...
ok
Is this the same for homes in South eastern Vermont?
See my other comment.
Thanks 🙏 hull
Thanks for watching.
i would love to see info on if insulation in old houses is harmful in ways other than money or character. i have a house in MN built in 1899/1900, but it has had numerous owners and partial repairs and upgrades etc. it is currently in desperate need of repairs and parts of it will be opened up to fix stuff and i am trying to decide if i should insulate any spaces that have to be opened before they get closed up again. and with what kind of insulation (keeping a super tight budget in mind, but also ability to delay closing the walls to wait til somethig is affordable). curious about a lot of things trying to restore a home, but also make sure it lasts and is comfy as well as sound... without costing a million dollars. like new lathe & plaster versus drywall, replacing windows that were updated badly to either salvaged period ones or new production recreations, and more. or if one was building a new cabin with old techniques deciding what choices would be more economical in the short and long runs... with my developmental disabilities, i always get tripped up thinking about those things... fight between wanting to do it right the first time and poverty lol.
Well, insulation is one of the cheapest ways to make a house comfortable. I suspect fiberglass is the cheapest. Although if you can spring for Rockwool or Cellulose i would. Good luck.
@@BrentHull but do you think because the way old homes were made that it could be risky on outer walls? Rockwool can do better with moisture than others I think. But am I risking having to open the walls up again by putting insulation in an old house that doesn't have modern barriers on the outside of house?
I have a 1923 duplex that I live in and rent out the other side. I've been here for almost 21 years and JUST peaked in the attic for the first time last week. I didn't climb into it but was about waist-high looking in. It's a lot of (unused space). What if after blowing cellulose in, something needs to be done up there? No idea what since the only thing I've had done is the chimney had to be removed from the attic floor up. In Sept 2022 I put two mini splits on my side and one in the rental, so no true HVAC system. It gets really cold and really hot in here.
I almost blew in insulation into the walls, but more so to try and dampen some of the sound from tenants.
I would do both. I think you'll be pleased. I'm less anxious about future work up there.
@@BrentHull in the walls and the attic? Exterior is stucco and the interior walls are lath and plaster. And, thank you.
What is best insulation for garage walls that are already drywall.?
blown in cellulose.
@@BrentHull would it be moisture resistance?
Do you recommend insulating between the roof joists with rock wool in addition to insulating in the ceiling with cellulose? I have a 1930s house with blown-in cellulose insulation already in the ceiling, but do not have anything in between the structural joists of the pitched roof itself. For refence, the house is in Denver, CO, so winters are cold and summers are quite hot. Thanks!
It depends. Is your HVAC unit in the attic? If so, I would consider removing the insulation in the ceiling joist and moving insulation into the roof rafters. This can condition the attic space and make your units run more efficiently. Thanks.
Wow we bought my mom’s house which I grew up in and my husband immediately had windows installed- that’s over and done with. Now I have termite inspection yearly and each time I am told that I need a vapor barrier on the dirt underneath my 1870s balloon frame railroad house. What do you suggest? Pleaseeeee
If your house is up on blocks and there is clear airflow I probably wouldn't. If you have an enclosed crawlspace I believe I would use a product like stego crawl. Good luck.
Is it ever appropriate (in a colder climate) to place a vapor barrier on the inside of an exterior wall in an old house? We have cellulose in the walls, and a vapor barrier between the sheetrock and plaster/wood walls. I don't think there's a moisture barrier on the outside, just dutchlap covered by failing LP siding that we'll be removing soon. I'm worried about breathability and the potential for mold and rot problems.
Yes, me too. I know that is what we did in Canada 30 years ago, but I don't know if that thinking has changed. Sorry, not my climate zone area of knowledge.
Would love some thoughts on incorporating modern technology with historic builds. How can we take these builds to the next level”next level”? Energy independence comes to mind, because we all use electricity so much, can we incorporate solar into historic designs?
Great idea. Thanks.
Wait, Rockwood, cellulose is also a vapour barrier? I think I'm missing something.
Good idea. I'll work on it. I would return the plate rail back into the wall, or lift it so it ran over the door. Good luck.
I have a 900 sq ft single family home, built in 1927. It has no "historic" value, per se. I have what appears to be vermiculite insulation in the attic. I'm being told that I need to have a licensed remediation company remove that vermiculite, because it's supposedly contaminated with asbestos. I can't afford to do that. Do I have any other options? I'm 72 years old and a permanently disabled veteran. Suggestions would be appreciated. thanks.
I would consider encapsulating it with Cellulose. Just blow it over the top and let it seal it in. 1 idea. Good luck.
@@BrentHull Wouldn't that kick up a lot of dust? Is there such a thing as a low pressure blower? Or, would i have to just dump it in free-flow, without using a blower? Thanks
Can you next video be about electrical and Plumbing.
Good idea. Yes, I'll work on it.
on average, what is the last year you would feel comfortable purchasing an old home? While obviously there's great and poor house choices in every year range what would be the year range you would need to really inspect closely before being persuaded to purchase in those year ranges. We typically hear the 1970's or late 60's in when craft really falls off. Is that your opinion as well?
Following….
I was going to say 1950's. It might leak into the early 1960s. Good question. Thanks.
My house was built in 1927 and I've had it going on 30 years. My advice, turn up the heat and get a good firewood guy.
Haha, ok Thx.
I have a colonial home in Maine that was insulated with corn cobs. I thought I had a rat infestation when I first bought the house then it dawned on me
Interesting. Thanks for sharing.
@@BrentHull Honestly thank you for creating this channel. I'm a plasterer with a passion for woodworking. After finding your channel I bought said house and have been restoring it with as much historical integrity as I can afford. Working on milling & replacing all moulding currently and your channel has been invaluable.
The problem with replacing your old ac unit is that the new one that you’ll buy will only last five years, but that old one will never for die.
My experience is a little different but i get what your saying.
In UK they are building cardboard boxes with plasterworks and outside breezblocks. Then they charge hundreds of thousands for these boxes which cost less than a fraction of cost to build. Deception and corruption is the building or construction industry in UK. Never buy a property as the law says your mortgage is due before the ink is dry on your contract!!!
Interesting. Thanks.
It does make me chuckle, what Americans think of historic houses!
ok. thx
I wish my energy bill was only $100. I have my ac set to 72-73 degrees. Last months electric bill was $400
Yikes.
A real shame so many people fall for the double-pane window scam! Paying more up front only to have the seals go out. These window companies sure have exaggerated how efficient they are as well. Making people think they will cut their power bill in half.
It is bad. Thx.
Totally agree-window replacement is a scam and shouldn’t be done unless the old windows can’t be refurbished. Insulation in an old house is tough. It’s really about controlling air infiltration and foam is the best at that, but it does have its drawbacks. If not using foam, I think a dense-pack cellulose would be the best because it fits into the wall cavity to seal it up.
Agreed on the cellulose. Of courses you know i hate foam. . Thanks.
After purchasing a 1914 bungalow in 1985 I decided to do nothing with it until I was there for a while. I did not want to do anything to it I could not reverse. So I went with cellulose, added a dormer with fiberglass insulation and foam board. That tightened up the envelope considerably. We installed an 'efficient' HVAC one each for the two levels. Interestingly we had a gravity feed duct work system. You made it sound as though that was unusual but most of the 4 square versions of the houses in the midwest I believe had systems like this for coal burners.
Wiring something like this house is crazy and you do it while you can. I have some knob and tube lights but I don't want to drop the lathe and mortar ceiling on the main floor.
So my question is; with a full basement whose integrity is not the best, what kind of impact is it having on my overall energy expenditure? And what can I do to mitigate it. Is this a sill plate solution? How much really does that help? No insulation in there now. Should I leave the cement block walls the way they are or frame them in and insulate? And the floor, 10 feet down. What do i do with that?
How about filling us in on what you would do. I need a basement solution. We do have our laundry, pantry (old coal room) and a small shop down there with 750 square feet x 10 feet. Show me how to do this.
I can only suggest a small thing; you’re asking for a lot of info in this comment. My brother is an energy rater, and when he was working on my 1926 bungalow house, he put fiberglass insulation batts against the basement walls, from the subflooring (the sill plate) down to the soil level outside. (This house is in Nebraska, where we have 4 seasons with big temperature swings.) Our house foundation is brick. This would be very easily reversible. I don’t know what you mean by a sill plate solution. The other thing I would suggest is to get your foundation’s structural integrity (if I understand you correctly) restored before you do anything else. I have no idea if this would help you.
Good question. I'll address basements in future episodes. The quick answer is to fix those areas that you can. In an ideal world you, take it out and seal and insulate. The problem is that it can be cost prohibitive and not worth it. I would insulate your floor joists and then let that be a cold space.
Yeah if your house is wrapped (modern) you can consider spray foam. But Lordy, think about what comes after.
The rest of us need hydrophobic stuff like mineral wool, seal up where you can and call it a day. Depending on where you are, you should pay attention to vapor barriers.
Agreed. Thanks.
sadly my late parents replaced the beautiful original windows.
Sorry.
After working on old houses I have come to the conclusion that older craftsmen is superior to today’s products. Things were built to last while todays products are purposely made to fail.
They can’t keep making money on products that last over twenty years.
Preach it!!! I agree.
Speaking as a Matt. Rotflmao. I know exactly what your talking about and I watch you both. But my house is 98 years old.
Thanks.
You have to eliminate windows !
Hmm. hopefully not.
True.........but Y'All cant open all those windows with all the gangs robbing houses
word.
I disagree with the statement that you would be messing up the historical integrity of the house if you insulated the interior (only. Not talking about the exterior). Only very very few old houses have craftsmanship that surpasses what a good worker can do today. Most have old plaster walls that can be replicated with drywall and paint or plaster if you really want to (for no good reason). Same exact look. Same with wood trim.
The preservation nut in me would disagree that they are the same. They can look close but they don't match historic. Thx.