Coal Iron Works 12 Ton Forging Press
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ย. 2024
- A quick review and dome my Coal Iron Works Forging Press. One of my top three or four used tools in the shop. This thing is perfect for a shop with limited space
Questions? I am ready to help-comment below and I'll respond as soon as I can. While I have you here, please like and subscribe!
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Safety wire will solve this bolt problem, a hole in the head to run it though is the standard method. You might get away with wrapping the head with a tight twist and going to the other bold the same way position so the counter unscrewing. McMaster sells the wire in different wire size. Safety wire plyers are the best method for doing that suff. Cheers!
Thanks for that. I was thinking about this at one point, but ended up not wanting to drill the holes and all that. I cleaned up all the threads really well and used a ton of thread locker and that seemed to do the trick, for a while. These bolts need a somewhat constant re-tightening due to the wear plates.
I appreciate this info. The funny thing is I recently got turned on to McMaster, and I wish I’d heard of them sooner.
@@Hathenbrucksteelworks One more idea, with the blacksmith tools you have and talent take a washer large enough and slam a hex into it to fit the bolts add a hole in that and safety wire that together. Just a thought. Cheers!
I have had mine close to two years now, other than the press being slightly under powered I have had no issues. The bolts you mention I haven’t had come loose yet. If I ever do upgrade I will be going with one of Clark Taplins forge presses. I have heard also that the press actually only puts out about 9.5 tons which I can’t confirm but they shouldn’t be marketing it as a 12 ton press if that’s the case!
I hear you about being underpowered. It was a great starter, but I’ve progressed into needing more power. I’ll look into those presses. Thanks a bunch.
I have the same press but it’s only a week old to me now. No issues yet. Kinda like the comment below, weld on the head of bolt that can be safety wired, drill a safety wire hole in the other bolt head and the safety wire it like is done in aviation maintenance, to prevent bolts and nuts from backing off. If the wire breaks, it would at least be a visual indicator to check it again.
I’m trying the thread lock again, time with the high strength stuff. If it backs out, then I’ll do what you’re recommending. How are you liking the press, so far?
@@Hathenbrucksteelworks my son and I are loving it! Game changer for sure. Bought the drift punch die set and I am currently making an axe. My son is making a knife. Life is good
That’s great to hear!! Are you on IG?
@@Hathenbrucksteelworks no, I don’t like social media much (other than TH-cam)
On the bolts, I would say it is the bronze wearing. Pull one and check it if you have a caliper.
Forge On!
It was definitely the bolts not locking in. I’ve since fixed the issues. The bronze wears really well.
Awesome way to put your kiss blocks. I have the exact same unit minus all the stickers. You might try tack welding a small piece of key stock on top of the bolt heads Tying them together.
Eventually I'll make pieces of varying length, instead of stacking numerous pieces of metal on top of one another. hahaha. That's an awesome idea on the bolts. Thank you!
nice informative video. Thank you.
Thank you!! I appreciate your comment 😁
Try belleville washers on the bolts they might work.
Thanks for the tip.
Tack Weld the Bolts so they dont come out
Nice. I am lookning at the 16 and 16+ primarily because I was more surface area and variety with the dies. Whichever one I buy, I plan to bother the guys at Coal Iron about some custom dies. 😉
Hahaha. I bet they’d do it for you. If I was to do it again, I’d do the 25 ton. I got the 12 ton mainly for space, but after I built my bench for it, I’m sure it takes up just as much space.
@@Hathenbrucksteelworks i thought about the 25t, but I don't see myself working on anything big enough to warrant it. I was down to the 16 or 16+. The guys said that the higher speed of the 16+ is an advantage for drawing out big billets of damascus, but I'm thinking that the extra money might be better spent on some more dies.
The fast speeds are definitely worth it. The problem is that as material gets thinner, the press isn’t as effective. On mine, when the material gets to about ½” thick, the flat dies don’t really work anymore, then I have to switch to drawing dies. This is fine, unless I really don’t want to be drawing in one direction.
@@Hathenbrucksteelworks I don't think the power makes a huge difference with a press. When you get thin, you have issues no matter. One thing I would consider would be a 16 ton and a McDonald sytle rolling mill if I could find someone who builds them. There is one guy but he charges WAY too much and another guy who I think charges too little , but\ he is the mystery man and you apparently have to ge through mutiple people to get to him .LOL The other option would be a small hammer like the Anyang 33/34, but any hammer is crazy expensive these days and even small ones are noisy.
I’d have to disagree with that. I’ve used a 25 ton press, and flat dies will work on much thinner material than the 12 ton.
great review. I am wanting one pretty bad.
Thank you! They’re great little machines.
Hi, did you buy it with pump and action handle, or you made it?
It comes with this handle, but I know you can buy a foot treadle with it.
@@Hathenbrucksteelworks would you provide a link for the model, that will be very helpful. Thanks
www.knifekits.com/vcom/ckk-riveteyelet-flaring-press-master-series-for-sheathholster-making-p-634.html
hi, wich motor has 2hp or 5hp?
Mine just has the 2 HP motor. The 12 ton moves plant fast with a 2 HP motor. When I get the 25 ton, I'll definitely get the 5 HP motor.
I've had my 12 Ton for over a year now, and the only issue I have with it is that when my billet gets below 3/8" the press won't take it any thinner, it just moans. Anyone have the same issue? At this point I really wish I'd saved up to get a 25 ton with a digital controller.
Hahahaha. Yeah. I can get the billet thinner with the drawing/rounding dies, but the 12 ton just doesn’t have enough power to do it with the flat dies. I’m with you there, I wish I had the 25 ton, but my shop space is very limited.
would you reccomend the 12 ton? or do you wish you went bigger? this is right at my budget point for right now. If i buy this do you think i will be disappointed in lack of power? I dont do any heavy forging mostly stuff like what you just demonstrated. Thanks
I do recommend this press, especially if it’s within your budget, or you’re lacking space, or if you’re doing smaller stuff. For me, right now, I wish I’d gone with the 25 ton. This thing has been great, and still is. I’ve just done a few things that I could’ve used more power. I definitely don’t regret the purchase. It was a game changer when I got it.
Thanks for the feedback, Have you forged any hammers/ axes with it? thats probably the only other larger thing i could see my self doing. @@Hathenbrucksteelworks
I haven’t, but it’ll take care of that project just fine.
The biggest issue is the thinner your steel gets, the more power you need to get it thinner…Or you switch to fullering or drawing does. Of course a more power machine is going to do it all a little quicker.
thank you very much
@@Hathenbrucksteelworks
Hi, nice video. Really appreciate the show and tell. Could you use all thread to hold the top plate in position if you used a couple of nuts on the outside? You might be able to get away with using a nylon insert lock nut but the lateral forces might be a bit much for them. If you try the all thread and 2 nut setup, please let me know if it works. Planning to build something similar to this press and trying to figure out the bearing configuration.
You’re very welcome! Are you referring to the bolts coming loose on the wear plates? If so, I cleaned up the bolts and holes really well, and used the strong thread locker. It’s been staying out, but hopefully I can get it apart when it comes time to tighten them.
Same problem with the bolts for me.......I just have to square the dies up and keep tightening them.
They definitely need to provide us with some sort of fix for it. It shouldn’t be up to us to make their machine function properly.
@@Hathenbrucksteelworks this was their solution....lol
have you tried start lock washers
Yeah. That’s actually what’s on there now. The bolts aren’t supposed to be torqued very tight, so I think that’s why lock washers don’t work.
@@Hathenbrucksteelworks i meant star lock washers, sorry. how about double nutting the bolts
I assumed that’s what you meant 😁. The bolts don’t go all the way through, so there’s no nuts on the ends.
@@Hathenbrucksteelworks thats all i got sorry lol
Hahaha. I appreciate your help.
Thanks for the review, I have been considering this machine over building one. In your experience/opinion what is the largest stack for Damascus that this machine can handle? Thanks
My typical stack would be about 32 layers of ⅛” steel, but I know I can make a larger stack than that. It opens to about 5.5”, so I wouldn’t go much thicker than a 5” stack.
@@Hathenbrucksteelworks wow. That's really impressive for a small press.
It does a great job.
@@Hathenbrucksteelworks I went ahead and pulled the trigger on a 12 ton. Really excited for it to get here.
Very nice! I think you’ll like it.
Wire the heads of the bolts like they will do on aircraft.
I was going to do this as my last resort, but I cleaned up the bolts really well and got a stronger thread lock. It seems to be holding alright for now.
Try. 2 nuts
Unfortunately, there are no nuts. I recently cleaned up the holes and the bolts, and put liberal amount of the red thread locker. It's been holding alright. If it ends up coming loose, I'll drill holes in the bolt heads and do the wire lock.