I love these videos. They're crystal clear and straight to the point. No lifestyle nonsense. No terminally groovy music. No hoodie wearing flutes with oversized baseball caps high fiving the camera that I have to skip past to get to the actual information. 10/10
Thanks for the upload. I watched your video before attempting to fit a window into the sliding door of my transit hightop. I also watched a few more videos, but your video saved me a lot of heartache. It's only a little thing, but you suggested, after cutting the hole and fitting black strip to the hold the window up to the van, to see if the window and van aligned. No other video on TH-cam said this and one guy fell foul of this, and ended up having to remove the window afterwards. I had three sides good, but the front of the door did not match the curve of the glass, and with the strength of the pillar I could not alter the van to fit the glass. Being the guy I am, I added a second run of sealant thicker than the rest down the front, the same way as you did at the corners. SUCCESS. you are a hero.!
Great video- it really helped with my Nissan Primastar (Vivaro / Trafic) install. Thank you! A few extra tips I noted: 1. I watched the video above several times and made notes of every step- having these notes printed made referral easy and it really helped ensure every stage was followed correctly. 2. DEFINITELY HAVE A SECOND PAIR OF HANDS UNLESS YOU ARE VERY CONFIDENT AT FITTING BONDED WINDOWS. If you are that confident / skilled- you probably aren't watching this video! 3. My Primastar had 2x ribs/struts that needed removing for door side window. 4. A disc cutter, holesaw and jigsaw worked well- fast / neat. I had to remove the base of the jigsaw (and use it like a mini reciprocating saw) as I only had short blades which were otherwise not long enough. 5. I used a metal file to flatten the odd section and remove burs before finishing off with emery cloth. 6. On my van the gap between the 2 'skins' of metal work was quite pronounced in places so in addition to flattening down where the struts were removed, I also had to go round with a block of soft wood and a hammer, beating them together. 7. When applying the adhesive/sealant you REALLY do want to be as consistent as possible- slow and steady is the key. You don't want wavy lines but a continuous straight line of equal thickness. Any gaps WILL leak water. WORTH GETTING RIGHT!! 8. We gaffer taped the window in place and also stuck some cardboard packers underneath to ensure it didn't drop. However, I've now got gaffer tape residue to remove (even after just 24 hours)! I've heard WD40 works well... I'm a real amateur when it comes to this sort of thing but my friend is fairly handy and confident and had previously done the window on his own Vivaro. Having all the tools / equipment out first and without rushing it took us about 3- 3.5 hours. I think anyone attempting this for the first time should allow half a day+. Take your time and enjoy it!
Thank you for this info! I was wondering about the gaffer tape residue as well. My girlfriend and I are mounting 2 windows to our VW for the first time and boy am I scared! I was wondering why he didn't stress the point about the adhesive that HAS to be very consistent. You're looking at worst scenario here where your window is leaking. However, this video was very thorough!
I've just completed the fitting of 2 windows to my VW caddy and if there's one bit of advice I can give it is to have a good caulk applicator. Even when warm the bonding goop is tough to squeeze out and I have to say that after about 10% of the job all strength had already left my hands and I had to just dig deep and press on. My applicator was possibly the cheapest one available so do yourself a favour and spend a few quid on a good one.
This is by far the best and most comprehensive window fitting video I've found. It has answered many of the questions I had about the nuances of the process. Thank you for posting it.
As usual superbly informative thank you. Ive just bought my rear side door and the drivers side rear window - this weekend IS THE DAY its time to cut holes in a perfectly good van.......wish me luck Im an aircraft engineer so pretty used to cutting holes in things - bought myself a used professional power shears thats been used for ONE van! Bargain. These guys are DEFINTELY the best in the conversion business!
Best video for the beginner to fit bonded window's in van I have found, loads of information,. I fitted four bonded window's in my mk8 transit and have never done it before, it went very well. This video is excellent
Makes such a visual difference adding the glass. Great film, it's on of those seemingly simple jobs that has a few more steps to it than you might expect!
Best video Ive seen for fitting bonded glass windows to any van. I put 4 windows in a renault master van and found the step by step guidelines easy to follow. Thanks. John
by far the best and most comprehensive videos i have watched, and i have watched a LOT :).... very professional and its excatly how i'll be doing my windows, thankyou
Great video, just installed a window on a t5. Echoing other comments get decent caulk gun. Mu boyfriend and I had to take turns squeezing the gun. The duct tape we used damaged the paintwork - which isn't too bad for us as its already wrecked, but something to be mindful of.
I really enjoyed this video, compared with other ones seen on TH-cam..I like the detailed instructions, everything seems to get covered, and nothing missed, I hope to fit an extra window soon, and will use your helpful tips to do a good job, thanks.
Good video, used it to fit my side windows today. One thing I will add is make sure you pierce a large hole in the window bonding tube otherwise it makes it very difficult to push out with the gun.
Thank you for this, any many other informative videos. I actually found that cutting from the inside using a jigsaw, with the foot removed worked the best. Just core out each corner and follow the internal reveal as a guide. You do have to keep tight hold of the jigsaw though to prevent it jumping!
This is exactly what i did when i installed my windows - blasted straight through the bracing rib too ! Helps to have a cordless jigsaw with new 'branded' jigsaw blade with Fine teeth designed for the job.
Just installed my own window, and this video was very helpful! Thank you! Although I will say 2 hours to fit is very unlikely for non-professional - took me and my father 8 hours lol
Brilliant video , installed two windows on my vivaro yesterday everything went very smoothly thanks to you guys , I used the hole saw and reciprocating method as those were the tools I had worked perfectly .
Hello, I must first praise the precision of the work, then I have a question about the protective rubber that you will use after cutting to the edge of the sheet. I could beg a dimension or some reference. Thank you
Hi, thank you for your feedback. The trim we use is as seen on this link and so offers details of the dimensions we use here: www.kiravans.co.uk/products/u-profile-window-edge-trim-black-per-metre - hope this helps.
Thanks for the instructions! I installed the windows last evening, and sadly today I can see daylight come through the whole bottom side and lower sides. Luckily the top seems to be sealed tight, and after putting the hose on, no water comes in. Besides aesthetics, is there any argument against filling the edge with sealant from the inside?
Thanks for the video! Huge help and installed the windows and they look great... however I have discovered a leak at the top 😢 any tips for sealing? I can’t get the nozzle of the sikaflex down to the leak area behind the glass
Hi, sorry - only just seen this. It's always so annoying if you discover a little leak in the window bonding. It is usually almost impossible to fix by applying more adhesive/sealant because of the small gap to get the nozzle in. In my experience it pays to get an auto window fitter to quickly remove the window and re-bond it. A professional should have the correct kit to remove the glass without damaging it or the van.
@@kiravans5874 thanks for replying. I managed to fix the gap by squashing the nozzle and slipping it down behind the glass. It’s worked a treat but getting a repair is always the back up plan. Thanks for replying 👍🏼
@@bobbinational having the exact same problem :( Going to try your fix. Was contemplating on using the same sealant used to glue the window to the van or sikaflex. Probably going with the sika after reading your comment. Wish me luck!
@@Ramdapanda yeah go for it! Now in the vid they mention doing the line of sealant smoothly. I just bit that sucker and got as much sealant down in those gaps. Little tip for you too I discovered that if you go inside the van and look out you can often see the gaps too. Just lash it in and also have loads of alcohol wipes at the ready to clean up after as it can often be a bit messy ! Go for it
@@bobbinational haven't been able to see mine but it leaks like there wasn't a seal at all in one place. How come you went with sika instead of the glue by the way? I also asked a friend who had the same issue. He solved it by making a nice seem all around the window with more glue, using a credit card and masking tape which also seems like a good enough solution
If you apply too close to the edge the bead of sealant will show as it gets squashed down, you really want the glass to look like it's floating. Hope this answers your question.
@@kiravans5874 so there's no issue with water getting behind the glass ?, obviously won't get into the vehicle but could get behind the glass upto the adhesive
Hi from Australia...hoping you could assist with queries...I have purchased two SWB Rear 3/4 windows for my T6...I am most certain they are the ones you sell in size and function...one is a slider and the other a fake...i traced the slider opening to the side of my van and it does not appear to follow the inner single skin...the front forward section crosses over to the double skin...your presentation mostly details cutting out for mid-slider window...for the rear 3/4 did you have to cut into/through double skins...? Also, do you recommend a weep/breather hole with the sealend at the bottom of the fake window...? TIA
il be installing side windows this week. Your video has been very clear and help full and seems best easiest method. just quick question, wont bonding leak in side being so closed to trim? This is only thing am worried about. Cheers
hey mate!! would you suggest going genuine sliding windows or aftermarket ones for my t6.1? im not sure on what to get I like the idea of it being flush
I had a real tough time squeezing out the adhesive even after warming it. I applied too much adhesive tbh as some squished out all over the top and I spent forever cleaning it off, but then it started to cure before I could clean it all off. I also applied too much primer, on a tailgate the gap is really thin top and bottom after applying the rubber, so the dabber almost puts it on too thick. The tape I used also let the weight of the window somehow pull it down 😩 Is there any advice to remove visible primer or excess adhesive? Many thanks.
Do you ever have bond press out beyond the barn door windows? There isn't much space between the "U" trim and the edge along the bottom and outer side of the van.
Yes, it is possible. Care needs to be taken not to apply too much adhesive and to keep the bead as close to the knock on edge trim as possible. If you do get some pressing out it can be removed usually by using a 'workshop hand wipe' and a narrow tool or matchstick. This needs to be done immediately though.
When fitting a tinted window covering where the panel is not cut out (and the van is white in colour), will the white panel be seen through the tint when fitted .
Hi Tim, this way would work fine, we do another video on fitting the carpet before the window and this is the process we follow th-cam.com/video/ob9TmLn8D8o/w-d-xo.html - hope this helps.
We have fitted 3 windows last weekend. It's raining all day today. At the first window we fitted, we could find a spot at the top edge where a water drop came in. How's the easiest way to locate the leak? We couldn't find a hole in the bonding by lightening with a flashlight from outside. Pressure Air? Any idea how we can get some of the ultracure into the small gap at the top of the window? Are there special thin nozzles for the catridges? Would you try to fix it from inside or outside?
Hi Fabian, sorry to hear that. If you can't see an obvious hole then it could be very hard to repair the bond. If it was me I would ask a window fitting professional to remove the glass so you won't damage the vehicle or glass. They can then re-bond it in only a few minutes. It shouldn't cost too much and will result in a 100% waterproof and neat job. Any attempt to get more Ultracure in there may result in a mess!
@@kiravans5874 Hi, we have observed that for a week now and did a test with the garden sprinkler. At the spot where we found a water drop in the first time we couldn't detect any signs of leakage anymore. After the nights there were sometimes little wet spots at other places. But after spraying water with the sprinkler directly into the bonding gap we couldn't find any signs of leak all around the window from inside. So eventually we assume this was just condensated water. :) Although we will keep observing this for a while. Thank you for your advice. We could just cancel our appointment at the car glas workshop :)
So if I understand the glass is glued only on the rubber and it allows a space between the metal and the glass. My rubber is a bit large and if I do like this I will have at least 4 mm of free space. Do the rubber protection is important or can I remove it ?
No, the glass is glued directly to the metal, just beside the rubber trim. The rubber trim does make the glass sit a bit further out from the van. If you want the glass to be more flush fitting then don't use the rubber trim and just cover the cut metal edge in a different way.
I saw that you also offer the adhesive in a primerless variant, which is a bit cheaper and apparently easier to use. So is there any advatage in using the primer version?
Linus, Professional window fitters have very fixed opinions on which is best (for either option!) so we provide both for those who have a strong preference either way. Either will work and whichever one I recommend to you will bring someone in with a contradictory argument. Hope this helps.
Hi just bought 6 windows from you guys - 2 barn doors went in today - the hardest bit was mastic - are you supposed to cut off the long piece of the applicator so the V touches the body work. What mastic gun did you is use it seemed effortless
Hello Thank you for your message. Typical caulking guns run from a low of a 3:1 thrust ratio up to a high of an 18:1 thrust ratio. - Dual component epoxies, polyurethanes, and construction adhesives all require high ratio guns with anywhere from 18:1 to 26:1 thrust ratios. The V should be visible with the guide line on the left. It is harder if the product is cold.
We offer two types of edge trim, a standard option which covers 2-5mm edges and extra wide which covers 8-14mm edges. We normally recommend the wider trim as it's easier to fit. However, if you have the time and the muscle power to cut out the metal skin, then the narrow trim will give you a slightly neater finish. Please see the link for details: www.kiravans.co.uk/products/u-profile-window-edge-trim-black-per-metre?variant=30716894314549
Great video... I have a question about the edge trim. I will be cladding the inside of my van and making a window frame so I won't see the cut edge from the inside.. Do I still need to use the trim?
No, you don't need to use the edge trim if you won't see the cut edge inside. In fact, this will make it easier to get a nice flush fit for your windows, when looking from the outside.
@@kiravans5874 thanks for the reply... My window looks great. The video was super helpful and gave me the confidence to do it without worrying. Thanks 😊
Hi Fabio the primer is mainly to help bond the window but we find also help with preventing rust and erosion and so this is why Mike uses this around the sanded edges also. I hope this helps.
Hi, good question but this is not something I've ever noticed happening. You could apply the adhesive nearer the outside edge of the van if you wanted, but just be careful not to go so close that it becomes visible when viewed from outside.
good work! could you tellme how thick the panel is? how many milimeters has my power shear to cut? it can only cut 1.2mm steel thick. will work? regards. Aritz
Great video, thank you! It's a bit chilly outside, what sort of temperature do you need to ensure the adhesive bonds correctly? Can you get around this by putting the adhesive tube in warm water or should I wait until the weather improves? Thank you
It's best to keep the adhesive tubes indoors so that they are at room temp before applying - it makes it much easier to use. The product is 'moisture curing', so temperature doesn't make as big a difference as humidity. A cold, damp day is better than a cold day with low humidity.
It's just decent quality masking tape or gaffer tape. We used quality masking tape. If you use gaffer tape then it's obviously stronger but it just leaves a bit of sticky residue sometimes which needs some elbow grease to clean off afterwards.
Great video, thanks. Other than the shape of the cutout, is there anything different to consider for a trafic? Also, I don't have a workshop, is there a minimum outside temperature to do this in (it's supposed to snow today, so I'm assuming that's way to cold).
I haven't put windows in a Trafic before but I believe it is the same process. The window adhesive is moisture curing, rather than temperature dependent. so it would take longer to go off if humidity is low - this may be the case on very cold dry days.
I've never tried it but I imagine it would take a long time and you would probably burn through a lot of blades. No harm in trying in a test area though....
The hole saw required is usually described as 'Bi-Metal'. It will cut through most things, including steel. Just don't try to go through too quickly or it will over-heat.
Any advice on removal of one of these windows. Took on left overs of someone's project and the side windows sit just a little to high for my liking, small gap at top bigger on bottom. Hope you can help. Thanks
Hi, have a look online and see if you can find a bonded window removal kit. It is basically a metal 'cheese wire' with two removable handles and a big metal spike to push the wire through the bond to start off. You then get one person inside the van and one outside and do a sawing motion all the way round the window with the wire. The other option is to use a long Stanley knife blade on the inside and just keep cutting round between the edge trim and the glass until you are through the bond. Both techniques will potentially mess up your glass so you may need new windows...
Either works, but I usually carpet first. Carpeting after the window is in can be a little fiddly. We have another video on that subject: th-cam.com/video/Mmz-8JJlTfY/w-d-xo.html
The air saw is the best tool, you just trace a straight line over the reinforcing pillar and then cut out inside the second metal skin, you can buy a erbauer air saw for £60
Thank you for this best Tuto i’m looking for your windows kit vw t5 swb EU but soldout at this time do you know when you will receive this product again ? Thanks
Cheers for the question. We've just had a delivery of windows in the last few days, so this kit should be available to buy on the website by Friday. Best thing to do is to check the website each day :)
Yes, it does a little. If you prefer the glass to sit very flush to the van then you can fit without the edge trim and finish off differently inside. Alternatively use a narrower edge trim - although this usually involves removing the pinch weld between the metal skins and re-bonding closer together.
I love these videos. They're crystal clear and straight to the point. No lifestyle nonsense. No terminally groovy music. No hoodie wearing flutes with oversized baseball caps high fiving the camera that I have to skip past to get to the actual information. 10/10
Thanks for the lovely feedback. It's always great to hear such positive feedback. Thank you :)
Echoing other comments, it must be said: you are a fantastic instructor (as well as workman). Thanks for this video - much appreciated.
Thank you!
Thanks for the upload.
I watched your video before attempting to fit a window into the sliding door of my transit hightop.
I also watched a few more videos, but your video saved me a lot of heartache.
It's only a little thing, but you suggested, after cutting the hole and fitting black strip to the hold the window up to the van, to see if the window and van aligned.
No other video on TH-cam said this and one guy fell foul of this, and ended up having to remove the window afterwards.
I had three sides good, but the front of the door did not match the curve of the glass, and with the strength of the pillar I could not alter the van to fit the glass.
Being the guy I am, I added a second run of sealant thicker than the rest down the front, the same way as you did at the corners.
SUCCESS.
you are a hero.!
Thanks for taking the time to leave this message. I'm glad you found our video helpful. It's always lovely to hear back from happy customers :) Thanks
The best video on YT how to fit campervan windows and very professional. Thank you.
Great video- it really helped with my Nissan Primastar (Vivaro / Trafic) install. Thank you!
A few extra tips I noted:
1. I watched the video above several times and made notes of every step- having these notes printed made referral easy and it really helped ensure every stage was followed correctly.
2. DEFINITELY HAVE A SECOND PAIR OF HANDS UNLESS YOU ARE VERY CONFIDENT AT FITTING BONDED WINDOWS. If you are that confident / skilled- you probably aren't watching this video!
3. My Primastar had 2x ribs/struts that needed removing for door side window.
4. A disc cutter, holesaw and jigsaw worked well- fast / neat. I had to remove the base of the jigsaw (and use it like a mini reciprocating saw) as I only had short blades which were otherwise not long enough.
5. I used a metal file to flatten the odd section and remove burs before finishing off with emery cloth.
6. On my van the gap between the 2 'skins' of metal work was quite pronounced in places so in addition to flattening down where the struts were removed, I also had to go round with a block of soft wood and a hammer, beating them together.
7. When applying the adhesive/sealant you REALLY do want to be as consistent as possible- slow and steady is the key. You don't want wavy lines but a continuous straight line of equal thickness. Any gaps WILL leak water. WORTH GETTING RIGHT!!
8. We gaffer taped the window in place and also stuck some cardboard packers underneath to ensure it didn't drop. However, I've now got gaffer tape residue to remove (even after just 24 hours)! I've heard WD40 works well...
I'm a real amateur when it comes to this sort of thing but my friend is fairly handy and confident and had previously done the window on his own Vivaro. Having all the tools / equipment out first and without rushing it took us about 3- 3.5 hours. I think anyone attempting this for the first time should allow half a day+.
Take your time and enjoy it!
You sound like a very professional amateur to me.
Some fantastic first hand knowledge tips there, thanks for sharing. 👍🏻
Thank you for this info! I was wondering about the gaffer tape residue as well. My girlfriend and I are mounting 2 windows to our VW for the first time and boy am I scared! I was wondering why he didn't stress the point about the adhesive that HAS to be very consistent. You're looking at worst scenario here where your window is leaking. However, this video was very thorough!
Gaffer tape residue - or any sticker residue - can easily be cleaned off with meths!
I've just completed the fitting of 2 windows to my VW caddy and if there's one bit of advice I can give it is to have a good caulk applicator. Even when warm the bonding goop is tough to squeeze out and I have to say that after about 10% of the job all strength had already left my hands and I had to just dig deep and press on. My applicator was possibly the cheapest one available so do yourself a favour and spend a few quid on a good one.
This is by far the best and most comprehensive window fitting video I've found. It has answered many of the questions I had about the nuances of the process. Thank you for posting it.
As usual superbly informative thank you. Ive just bought my rear side door and the drivers side rear window - this weekend IS THE DAY its time to cut holes in a perfectly good van.......wish me luck Im an aircraft engineer so pretty used to cutting holes in things - bought myself a used professional power shears thats been used for ONE van! Bargain. These guys are DEFINTELY the best in the conversion business!
Seriously, this video is packed FULL with what I was looking for. Even muted, with subtitles and jungle music on my headphones. Cheers
Thanks for the great comment....glad you're enjoying the videos, good luck with your build 😀
Best window installation video I've seen. Very detailed and clear! Thank you.
Thank you very much!
Really excellent video - as already said, no lifestyle nonsense and annoying music! - much appreciated.
Best video for the beginner to fit bonded window's in van I have found, loads of information,. I fitted four bonded window's in my mk8 transit and have never done it before, it went very well. This video is excellent
Makes such a visual difference adding the glass. Great film, it's on of those seemingly simple jobs that has a few more steps to it than you might expect!
Best video Ive seen for fitting bonded glass windows to any van. I put 4 windows in a renault master van and found the step by step guidelines easy to follow. Thanks. John
Thanks for thr feedback John, glad the video was of some help.
Best video on window fitting. All the practical details to know 👌
Thank you for the nice feed back its greatly appreciated 👍
@@kiravans5874 just seen your EU web shop. Also great. Gonna order some goodies.
by far the best and most comprehensive videos i have watched, and i have watched a LOT :).... very professional and its excatly how i'll be doing my windows, thankyou
Great video, just installed a window on a t5.
Echoing other comments get decent caulk gun. Mu boyfriend and I had to take turns squeezing the gun.
The duct tape we used damaged the paintwork - which isn't too bad for us as its already wrecked, but something to be mindful of.
I really enjoyed this video, compared with other ones seen on TH-cam..I like the detailed instructions, everything seems to get covered, and nothing missed, I hope to fit an extra window soon, and will use your helpful tips to do a good job, thanks.
Thanks for the kind words Daniel, good luck with your project.
I'm doing this now on my 2nd van and this is the first vid iv watched on this. My god Did I use way way to mutch adhesive last time lol.
The definitive tutorial! Thank You so much
Best video by to install theese windows BY FAR! Thanks a lot!
Thanks very much! Very happy it was helpful for you
Actually considering doing the windows myself now. What an awesome video
A very concise and informative video, Thanks for the inspiration.👍
Good video, used it to fit my side windows today. One thing I will add is make sure you pierce a large hole in the window bonding tube otherwise it makes it very difficult to push out with the gun.
When is it best to carpet? Could you cut the metal out, carpet and then fit the window?
Excellent video,. I watched it twice then got into beast mode and fitted mine. No problems. Thanks very much!
Thankyou very much for making such a professional and detailed video
Thank you for this, any many other informative videos. I actually found that cutting from the inside using a jigsaw, with the foot removed worked the best. Just core out each corner and follow the internal reveal as a guide. You do have to keep tight hold of the jigsaw though to prevent it jumping!
Your very welcome and thank you for sharing your tips also, all information and feedback helps others with their journeys :)
This is exactly what i did when i installed my windows - blasted straight through the bracing rib too !
Helps to have a cordless jigsaw with new 'branded' jigsaw blade with Fine teeth designed for the job.
Wondering what size holesaw used to give neat corners?
Did you work it out?
Spot on. Perfect video. Instructive! Score 10 of 10
Very helpful video can I ask what size of hole saw bit do you use for the corners?
Thanks
Very clear and helpful video. Thanks. I will contact Kiravans to order my windows.
Brilliant educational video, lots of great Hints & Tips, Feeling more confident, Cheers.
Great to hear!
Just installed my own window, and this video was very helpful! Thank you! Although I will say 2 hours to fit is very unlikely for non-professional - took me and my father 8 hours lol
Brilliant video , installed two windows on my vivaro yesterday everything went very smoothly thanks to you guys , I used the hole saw and reciprocating method as those were the tools I had worked perfectly .
@Adam Mitchell I cannot actually remember bud , sorry man :(
Great video, what size hole saw do you recommend?
Hello, I must first praise the precision of the work, then I have a question about the protective rubber that you will use after cutting to the edge of the sheet. I could beg a dimension or some reference. Thank you
Hi, thank you for your feedback. The trim we use is as seen on this link and so offers details of the dimensions we use here: www.kiravans.co.uk/products/u-profile-window-edge-trim-black-per-metre - hope this helps.
Brilliant well informative video. Many thanks. Top man. About to give it a go myself
Hi! thanks for the video, one question, is the same a primer than a rust converter?
When you cut out the sheet you can use tape to fix it instead of the suction cups so you have both hands to hold your grinder
Thanks for the instructions! I installed the windows last evening, and sadly today I can see daylight come through the whole bottom side and lower sides. Luckily the top seems to be sealed tight, and after putting the hose on, no water comes in.
Besides aesthetics, is there any argument against filling the edge with sealant from the inside?
Superb instructional video ,clear and calm, thanks
Thanks for the video! Huge help and installed the windows and they look great... however I have discovered a leak at the top 😢 any tips for sealing? I can’t get the nozzle of the sikaflex down to the leak area behind the glass
Hi, sorry - only just seen this. It's always so annoying if you discover a little leak in the window bonding. It is usually almost impossible to fix by applying more adhesive/sealant because of the small gap to get the nozzle in. In my experience it pays to get an auto window fitter to quickly remove the window and re-bond it. A professional should have the correct kit to remove the glass without damaging it or the van.
@@kiravans5874 thanks for replying. I managed to fix the gap by squashing the nozzle and slipping it down behind the glass. It’s worked a treat but getting a repair is always the back up plan. Thanks for replying 👍🏼
@@bobbinational having the exact same problem :( Going to try your fix. Was contemplating on using the same sealant used to glue the window to the van or sikaflex. Probably going with the sika after reading your comment. Wish me luck!
@@Ramdapanda yeah go for it! Now in the vid they mention doing the line of sealant smoothly. I just bit that sucker and got as much sealant down in those gaps. Little tip for you too I discovered that if you go inside the van and look out you can often see the gaps too. Just lash it in and also have loads of alcohol wipes at the ready to clean up after as it can often be a bit messy ! Go for it
@@bobbinational haven't been able to see mine but it leaks like there wasn't a seal at all in one place. How come you went with sika instead of the glue by the way?
I also asked a friend who had the same issue. He solved it by making a nice seem all around the window with more glue, using a credit card and masking tape which also seems like a good enough solution
Great work and a very educational and useful video for our new project!!! Thanks!!!
Hi is there a reason not to apply adhesive all the way to the edge of the glass and not just around the cut out ? Many thanks
If you apply too close to the edge the bead of sealant will show as it gets squashed down, you really want the glass to look like it's floating. Hope this answers your question.
@@kiravans5874 so there's no issue with water getting behind the glass ?, obviously won't get into the vehicle but could get behind the glass upto the adhesive
@@jackbates3ify no issues at all with that.
Thankyou very much for your replys
Hi from Australia...hoping you could assist with queries...I have purchased two SWB Rear 3/4 windows for my T6...I am most certain they are the ones you sell in size and function...one is a slider and the other a fake...i traced the slider opening to the side of my van and it does not appear to follow the inner single skin...the front forward section crosses over to the double skin...your presentation mostly details cutting out for mid-slider window...for the rear 3/4 did you have to cut into/through double skins...? Also, do you recommend a weep/breather hole with the sealend at the bottom of the fake window...? TIA
Best tutorial I have seen on window installation. Thank You.👍🏻
Excellent level of workmanship 👍🏻spot on.
Amazing vid. How would I clean the bonding off the glass if it wasn’t aligned properly when the window was originally put on?
Nice job, Thanks mate to sharing the video👍
Good job. Good presentation!
Steven Lie ```
il be installing side windows this week. Your video has been very clear and help full and seems best easiest method.
just quick question, wont bonding leak in side being so closed to trim? This is only thing am worried about. Cheers
As long as you don't use more than shown you'll be fine, the trim actually helps to push the bonding adhesive outwards away from the edge.
@@kiravans5874 thanks for reply, i fitted them yesterday. Followed your steps and worked out perfect👌👍 thanks for the video brilliant 👍
Дуже все файно зроблено. Видно зразу що або спеціаліст, або просто дуже скрупульозний(точний, акуратний) чоловік.
Brilliant video. What size hole saw did you use? Thanks
Very good thanks the best explanation by far
Do you only fit the windows with that black water sealer? There is no screw or sth?
great video with good content thanks for sharing 👍
hey mate!!
would you suggest going genuine sliding windows or aftermarket ones for my t6.1?
im not sure on what to get
I like the idea of it being flush
I had a real tough time squeezing out the adhesive even after warming it. I applied too much adhesive tbh as some squished out all over the top and I spent forever cleaning it off, but then it started to cure before I could clean it all off. I also applied too much primer, on a tailgate the gap is really thin top and bottom after applying the rubber, so the dabber almost puts it on too thick. The tape I used also let the weight of the window somehow pull it down 😩 Is there any advice to remove visible primer or excess adhesive? Many thanks.
Do you ever have bond press out beyond the barn door windows? There isn't much space between the "U" trim and the edge along the bottom and outer side of the van.
Yes, it is possible. Care needs to be taken not to apply too much adhesive and to keep the bead as close to the knock on edge trim as possible. If you do get some pressing out it can be removed usually by using a 'workshop hand wipe' and a narrow tool or matchstick. This needs to be done immediately though.
Very professional. Thank you.
When fitting a tinted window covering where the panel is not cut out (and the van is white in colour), will the white panel be seen through the tint when fitted .
Yes you will see the white of the panel through the glass, have a look at our 'fake' windows which are fully fritted.
Excellent video - I’m suddenly not apprehensive about the process at all!
Would this work 1. Cut out metal, 2. Carpet, 3. Fit trim then window? Or would the trim not get over the carpet & mess up?
Hi Tim, this way would work fine, we do another video on fitting the carpet before the window and this is the process we follow th-cam.com/video/ob9TmLn8D8o/w-d-xo.html - hope this helps.
We have fitted 3 windows last weekend. It's raining all day today. At the first window we fitted, we could find a spot at the top edge where a water drop came in. How's the easiest way to locate the leak? We couldn't find a hole in the bonding by lightening with a flashlight from outside. Pressure Air? Any idea how we can get some of the ultracure into the small gap at the top of the window? Are there special thin nozzles for the catridges? Would you try to fix it from inside or outside?
Hi Fabian, sorry to hear that. If you can't see an obvious hole then it could be very hard to repair the bond. If it was me I would ask a window fitting professional to remove the glass so you won't damage the vehicle or glass. They can then re-bond it in only a few minutes. It shouldn't cost too much and will result in a 100% waterproof and neat job. Any attempt to get more Ultracure in there may result in a mess!
@@kiravans5874 Hi, we have observed that for a week now and did a test with the garden sprinkler. At the spot where we found a water drop in the first time we couldn't detect any signs of leakage anymore. After the nights there were sometimes little wet spots at other places. But after spraying water with the sprinkler directly into the bonding gap we couldn't find any signs of leak all around the window from inside. So eventually we assume this was just condensated water. :) Although we will keep observing this for a while. Thank you for your advice. We could just cancel our appointment at the car glas workshop :)
very good video , thanks
So if I understand the glass is glued only on the rubber and it allows a space between the metal and the glass. My rubber is a bit large and if I do like this I will have at least 4 mm of free space. Do the rubber protection is important or can I remove it ?
No, the glass is glued directly to the metal, just beside the rubber trim. The rubber trim does make the glass sit a bit further out from the van. If you want the glass to be more flush fitting then don't use the rubber trim and just cover the cut metal edge in a different way.
I saw that you also offer the adhesive in a primerless variant, which is a bit cheaper and apparently easier to use. So is there any advatage in using the primer version?
Linus, Professional window fitters have very fixed opinions on which is best (for either option!) so we provide both for those who have a strong preference either way. Either will work and whichever one I recommend to you will bring someone in with a contradictory argument. Hope this helps.
Hi just bought 6 windows from you guys - 2 barn doors went in today - the hardest bit was mastic - are you supposed to cut off the long piece of the applicator so the V touches the body work. What mastic gun did you is use it seemed effortless
Hello
Thank you for your message. Typical caulking guns run from a low of a 3:1 thrust ratio up to a high of an 18:1 thrust ratio. - Dual component epoxies, polyurethanes, and construction adhesives all require high ratio guns with anywhere from 18:1 to 26:1 thrust ratios. The V should be visible with the guide line on the left. It is harder if the product is cold.
How thick a bead of bonding would you say is needed. Thanks
We offer two types of edge trim, a standard option which covers 2-5mm edges and extra wide which covers 8-14mm edges. We normally recommend the wider trim as it's easier to fit. However, if you have the time and the muscle power to cut out the metal skin, then the narrow trim will give you a slightly neater finish. Please see the link for details: www.kiravans.co.uk/products/u-profile-window-edge-trim-black-per-metre?variant=30716894314549
Great video. Techniques described with high degree of competence and the minimum of waffle. :)
Great, detailed description and clearly explained in each step. Subbed and liked. Many thanks. Looking forward to more videos.
Merci beaucoup pour votre démonstration de démontage et montage de la Tunisie que je fais cette commentaire 👍
What size drill saw did you use?
Great video... I have a question about the edge trim. I will be cladding the inside of my van and making a window frame so I won't see the cut edge from the inside.. Do I still need to use the trim?
No, you don't need to use the edge trim if you won't see the cut edge inside. In fact, this will make it easier to get a nice flush fit for your windows, when looking from the outside.
@@kiravans5874 thanks for the reply... My window looks great. The video was super helpful and gave me the confidence to do it without worrying. Thanks 😊
Quick question.. why do you add the primer around the edge of the van and around the window edge? Thanks
Hi Fabio the primer is mainly to help bond the window but we find also help with preventing rust and erosion and so this is why Mike uses this around the sanded edges also. I hope this helps.
@@kiravans5874 Nice thanks. Can I use Sika 205 for it as I'm struggling to find a fitting kit?
@@fabiocancogni4114 yes you can.
Silly question. Does this method apply to the T5 aswel ? Following the line of the inner skin when cutting
Yes the same method applies to a T5 or T6.
@@kiravans5874 nice one thanks guys! Giving it a go today so appreciate the quick response
@@gavt1198 Hope it all goes well
Big thank you for all the tipps :-)
If the sealant is not near the edge of the glass, doesn't the small gap between the glass and the outside van wall get filled with dirt over time?
Hi, good question but this is not something I've ever noticed happening. You could apply the adhesive nearer the outside edge of the van if you wanted, but just be careful not to go so close that it becomes visible when viewed from outside.
@@kiravans5874 thanks for the reply
good work!
could you tellme how thick the panel is? how many milimeters has my power shear to cut? it can only cut 1.2mm steel thick. will work?
regards.
Aritz
Great video, thank you! It's a bit chilly outside, what sort of temperature do you need to ensure the adhesive bonds correctly? Can you get around this by putting the adhesive tube in warm water or should I wait until the weather improves? Thank you
It's best to keep the adhesive tubes indoors so that they are at room temp before applying - it makes it much easier to use. The product is 'moisture curing', so temperature doesn't make as big a difference as humidity. A cold, damp day is better than a cold day with low humidity.
What do we class as non stretch tape for holding the windows up? Looks like electrical tape but i think that has a bit of give in it. Any ideas?
It's just decent quality masking tape or gaffer tape. We used quality masking tape. If you use gaffer tape then it's obviously stronger but it just leaves a bit of sticky residue sometimes which needs some elbow grease to clean off afterwards.
Great video, thanks. Other than the shape of the cutout, is there anything different to consider for a trafic? Also, I don't have a workshop, is there a minimum outside temperature to do this in (it's supposed to snow today, so I'm assuming that's way to cold).
I haven't put windows in a Trafic before but I believe it is the same process. The window adhesive is moisture curing, rather than temperature dependent. so it would take longer to go off if humidity is low - this may be the case on very cold dry days.
Brilliant presentation extremely clear and concise
Fantastic video really helped me to do my own windows. I have saved alot of money 👍
Excellent very well presented
Excellent presentation and very easy to follow....👍👍
Do you think it’s worth trying the cut with the saw of an oscillating multitool ?
I've never tried it but I imagine it would take a long time and you would probably burn through a lot of blades. No harm in trying in a test area though....
What should it cost to fit a tinted sliding window in a 06 fiat ducato
Hi, I don't know as we don't sell windows for the Ducato van here at Kiravans.
DOUBLE LIKE !!
Good work ❤💪👏👏👏👏
Can you use a standard hole saw for the corners or does it need to be one for metal work only?
The hole saw required is usually described as 'Bi-Metal'. It will cut through most things, including steel. Just don't try to go through too quickly or it will over-heat.
Any advice on removal of one of these windows. Took on left overs of someone's project and the side windows sit just a little to high for my liking, small gap at top bigger on bottom.
Hope you can help. Thanks
Hi, have a look online and see if you can find a bonded window removal kit. It is basically a metal 'cheese wire' with two removable handles and a big metal spike to push the wire through the bond to start off. You then get one person inside the van and one outside and do a sawing motion all the way round the window with the wire. The other option is to use a long Stanley knife blade on the inside and just keep cutting round between the edge trim and the glass until you are through the bond. Both techniques will potentially mess up your glass so you may need new windows...
@@kiravans5874 Thanks very much, I've checked out the cheese wire method I may for for that first 😬
Is it better to put in windows before insulation and carpeting or after?
Either works, but I usually carpet first. Carpeting after the window is in can be a little fiddly. We have another video on that subject:
th-cam.com/video/Mmz-8JJlTfY/w-d-xo.html
The air saw is the best tool, you just trace a straight line over the reinforcing pillar and then cut out inside the second metal skin, you can buy a erbauer air saw for £60
Thank you for this best Tuto i’m looking for your windows kit vw t5 swb EU but soldout at this time do you know when you will receive this product again ?
Thanks
Cheers for the question. We've just had a delivery of windows in the last few days, so this kit should be available to buy on the website by Friday. Best thing to do is to check the website each day :)
Hi, how thick is the rubber edge trim you've used here?
Extra wide trim - This edge trim is designed to cover edges from 8-14 mm across.
Does the edge trim not push out the glass a little?
Yes, it does a little. If you prefer the glass to sit very flush to the van then you can fit without the edge trim and finish off differently inside. Alternatively use a narrower edge trim - although this usually involves removing the pinch weld between the metal skins and re-bonding closer together.
Thanks for the video!
Just brilliant thanks