You make it look so easy with a lift but doing this on the floor with a jack is a PITA! That circular black plastic spacer that sits on the end by the bolt is a nightmare to line up if it falls off. Took me 2 hours of cursing to finish this job on a 2009 Tiguan. Great video explanation I followed it to the end.
FINALLY i found a video of this exact part, my girlfriends skoda octavia (1Z5) has the one that goes through, i took off the compressor to get the old one out but it hits the frame. That then settles that I do infact need to lower the engine
@@EuropeanAutoRepairhow do you get the new one all the way in? Seems impossible to push it the last inch or so. I’ve got the plastic lined up in the hole but it doesn’t want to go
Hi, Do you have a tensioner video for the MK7 GTI? I can't find torque specs anywhere for the 2 bolts that attach the tensioner and they seem really easy to break. I would be grateful for any info you have on that. Thanks!
On my 09 CCTA Passat, I couldn't reach my way to the back bolt. The bracket was too much of a PITA. I ended up taking off the alternator. Much more space to work. Was only moving the tensioner out to access the last lower timing cover bolt that was partially stripped. I'm pushing 200k miles and wonder if I should swap this out while I've got an engine support bar....hmmm. Do the alternators/accessories fail often on these engines?
At 200k with factory alternator might be a good idea, they actually don’t really have high failure rates at all on these models but once you get up there around 200 it can happen, the brushes that are part of the voltage regulator just wear out
@@EuropeanAutoRepair very true...just hard to decide when to cost control. I need to fully remove the tensioner, since I took off the pulley - for proper bolt torque I'm thinking. Then will order and swap the tensioner when it arrives. Definetely don't want the more expensive alternator to fail with the pulley. Happens too much
@@EuropeanAutoRepair I was able to get just the pulley replaced but the squeak remains...it takes time to wind up and seems less when accelerating but no difference when turning (power steering ruled out) no difference between AC or not...and no power problems...
![How to Replace Serpentine Belt on 2010-2014 Volkswagen GTI [Step-by-Step Guide]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/lYa7L7uCOtg/mqdefault.jpg)
You make it look so easy with a lift but doing this on the floor with a jack is a PITA! That circular black plastic spacer that sits on the end by the bolt is a nightmare to line up if it falls off. Took me 2 hours of cursing to finish this job on a 2009 Tiguan. Great video explanation I followed it to the end.
Doing this now at home. Wish me luck.
FINALLY i found a video of this exact part, my girlfriends skoda octavia (1Z5) has the one that goes through, i took off the compressor to get the old one out but it hits the frame.
That then settles that I do infact need to lower the engine
Kind of a pain huh, glad it helped you out
@@EuropeanAutoRepairhow do you get the new one all the way in?
Seems impossible to push it the last inch or so. I’ve got the plastic lined up in the hole but it doesn’t want to go
Soooo... what are the torque specs?
Hi, Do you have a tensioner video for the MK7 GTI? I can't find torque specs anywhere for the 2 bolts that attach the tensioner and they seem really easy to break. I would be grateful for any info you have on that. Thanks!
Cuestion, CAN YOU ONLY REPLACE THE ROLLER OR YOU NEED TO REPLCED ALL THE ASSY IF WE CAN REPLACE THE ROLLER YOU HAVE THE PN OF THE ROLLER
THANKS
On my 09 CCTA Passat, I couldn't reach my way to the back bolt. The bracket was too much of a PITA. I ended up taking off the alternator. Much more space to work. Was only moving the tensioner out to access the last lower timing cover bolt that was partially stripped. I'm pushing 200k miles and wonder if I should swap this out while I've got an engine support bar....hmmm. Do the alternators/accessories fail often on these engines?
At 200k with factory alternator might be a good idea, they actually don’t really have high failure rates at all on these models but once you get up there around 200 it can happen, the brushes that are part of the voltage regulator just wear out
@@EuropeanAutoRepair very true...just hard to decide when to cost control. I need to fully remove the tensioner, since I took off the pulley - for proper bolt torque I'm thinking. Then will order and swap the tensioner when it arrives. Definetely don't want the more expensive alternator to fail with the pulley. Happens too much
does this work on a 2013 vw cc 2.0? also how long is that extension?
How does the small circular plastic fit? I fitted one last week and it was busted within two days.
It fits on the back and is held in place by the mounting bolt..
Thanks for the tip.
Do I need to replace the tensioner? Can I just replace the belt
If the tensioner is working well and pulley is in good condition just replacing the belt is fine
Can i just remove the pulley and replace it?
Yeah if the bearing in the pulley is the problem you can absolutely do that
@@EuropeanAutoRepair I was able to get just the pulley replaced but the squeak remains...it takes time to wind up and seems less when accelerating but no difference when turning (power steering ruled out) no difference between AC or not...and no power problems...
How much does a shop usually charge for this job? I want to do this to my 2013 GTI (102k milage, still on original tensioner)
I think it was 2 labor hours. So I'd say around 2 or 300 dollars without parts
My guy $75.
Top man.
This is a different tensioner than what it is for a M6 or even Mk7 GTI. You need to specify what years for your video.
Good call! I’ll write ccta in the title
Tanks men
Extremely over-engineered, wtf!
All of that for a tensioner!
Yeah im definitely not a fan of that design