Im 5’10 and I swapped my bar from 400 to 340, just like the presenter said, it doesnt feel much different despite some extra effort required when riding off the saddle. I have no regret for this upgrade.
I’m 6’4, built more like a stretched out normal size person, I have narrow shoulders. Switching from stock 46 cm bars to 40 cm has been much more comfortable.
Im 42. I want to try 38 or even 36 now. But I figure if I can ride my tops and race on it which I know isn't standard I could get my hands pretty narrow. Racing on velodrome that is
In some cases it's a win win, I love my zipp aero bars, nice and comfy on the tops when needed with the wide blade, and stability when in an aero tuck with more contact!
I've changed last year from the standard 44cm (for my 54cm frame) to a 40cm bar. And it is a BIG win to every aspect! I still ride a 44cm bar in another bike, but the 40cm one is spot-on for me! I intend to try something narrower in the future, like 38 or even 36 to see how it will get.
@@albr4 Bar width is more properly tied to shoulder width, not height. I ride 44cm bars on two different bikes, because my shoulders are 44cm. 42cm felt a bit too narrow for me.
@@rosco0101 Exactly, and shoulder width is tied with height. Handlebar width is not entirely to do with your shoulder width though, it's overall body size, if you're a smaller person like 5"5-5"8 if you tried 44cm bars they would stick out so much further than your thighs and hips do which would be terrible for cycling performance. In general you don't want your bars to stick out. If you ride in a group you can see it much clearer, when you ride behind someone whose bars are way too wide you can see their arms and bars sticking out. You want your arms and bars to be hidden when viewed from the behind. Also the bar width/shoulder width thing sounds like a good idea in theory but actually having bars narrower than your shoulders can be a lot more comfortable and that's what most people find when they try narrow bars.
Did you have a problem sticking out your elbows, negating some of the benefit? Or, is this less of an issue compared with tilting-in the levers? Could you test tilting in the levers on more normal width bars gives most of the advantage? Also, did play with stem length or use a formula to get the same reach to your normal hand position on the hoods?
I only used 400 on my first road bike, only £3.6k, I'm questioning if 360 or 380 when spend £8-9k on a Trek Emonda ALR build, be lighter than stock Trek Emonda SLR 9 AXS even though same groupset, I'm looking at more aero than light weight, also I hate seat mast
@@paddymurphy-oconnor8255 Frame £1300 To buy SRAM Red AXS HRD £1200 Bjorn saddle and seat post $600 Wheelset 55mm be estimate £1600 Wheelset 88mm be estimate £1600 Continental GP5000 25mm tyres Carbon TI rotors XD15 bearings (£200 bottom bracket plus cost of other bearings) Ceramic speed ospw I think this give you most of idea
Hello! I've been using the Worx bars for the last year. Since I have 33cm drops on my track bike, it took me a long time to finally find such narrow bars for my road bike and I'm extremely pleased. My conclusions are somewhat similar to yours. The main drawback I found is that it is very difficult to rock the bike back and forth when out of the saddle on the hoods, so sprinting in that position is awkward, and sprinting is reserved for the drops. Otherwise, it's all advantages for me. One thing you didn't mention is that these are "sprint bars", i.e., they have a fairly round type drop shape, whereas all my previous narrow bars had "ergonomic" drops which didn't put me forward enough on the hooks of the drops, very frustrating. I had been looking for track bars that would fit on the road, without previous success. I got comments from a local group ride I joined, one person said that it was dangerous, as my brake levers were flared out beyond the bars when I initially placed the brake hoods 22cm apart (I put them back to normal 26cm later on), other people were too stunned to comment. For the next ride, I had pictures on my phone of other people using these bars, in case they were thinking of excluding me. However, all these local guys (Neuchatel, CH) have zero cycling culture, the ride was at about the same period as Dan Bigham's UK hour record, which I attended, the Grenchen track being only 40km from here. None of these guys would have had any clue about this, or the European track championships that were held in Grenchen shortly thereafter.
I'm 6'8" and recently put a 50cm bar with 24° flare on my gravel bike, which doubles as my road bike. I ride my mountain bike more and have 800mm bars on it. I'll never run a narrow drop bar without flare again. It's not for everyone, but for a tall guy like myself with wide shoulders a wide drop bar is a must!
I run a pair of 34cm Fouriers and I love them. I have come from 38cms and I run 33s and 30s on the track.I have put a longer stem to compensate for the shorter reach from a narrower bar but I like that they are 34cm in the drops aswell as the hoods. So the rule of thumb is 2cm narrower = 5mm longer if you go narrow.
@@aymankhairy3197 I have done UCI races on the track and they are definitely legal on my 33s and the rules are pretty much the same on the road. There#s nothing saying anything on a minimum bar width in the rules.
@@Red-ju4miUsually a fitter will measure the two boney bits between your shoulders usally because it more consistent than measuring your shoulders outside to outside. But try some 38s out you will love them. I do the odd bunch race but I am more of track sprinter/kilo riders. So if I am doing a kilo I am swapping out to my tt bars. But both my bars are narrow on the track.
I switched to a shorter 80mm stem and 38cm bars and I am never going back. I did step down with a 40 cm bar first to be sure I was comfortable before trying the narrower bar. Different frames will be effected differently. I have been cycling for almost 40 years now. Wish I had adjusted earlier. 6' 195lbs on 54 Pinarello frame. No handling issues, just more comfort and speed.
I'm a 6'2" guy and ride a 58 in most frame size which means I'm stuck with 44 stock handlebars which give me horrible neck and shoulder pain. I ride a 40 pain-free but it's a hassle procuring new bars every time I get a new bike. Oh and also--narrow is aero!
@@htdtr Kind of. I actually decided to build my new bike entirely custom, because I knew I'd have to swap handlebar, stem, cranks, saddle and cassette anyways. This way it was a lot cheaper, even if it was a decent amount of work.
I ride 35cm hoods with 40cm drops, enve aero bars. It's the perfect combination. Any narrower than 35cm and you won't be able to climb out of the saddle on the hoods and 35 is plenty narrow enough for a super fast position. The 40cm drops are essential for sprinting and descending. You must also take into consideration that the "aero" effect of using narrow bars is nullified as soon as you sit up since you will automatically flare your elbows out to emulate riding a wider bar so if you can't hold a horizontal back-90 degree elbow aero position then narrow bars won't help you.
Hmm elbows flaring outward from hands rather inwards is a better aero effect even if you sit up or not. Theoretically from my TH-cam aero science degree. BUT THINK ABOUT THE WEIGHT SAVINGS. Same reason aero bars are in the middle. I realized I could just ride the tops in a narrow position
I find that 38-40 is perfect for all around on the road bike. Track bike - 36. Gravel/CX - 44 and wider. and I am 191cm tall with quite wide shoulders, yet narrow bars allowing to roll shoulders better and get those aero advantages when riding at 45-55km/h on the flat (intervals of course)
Can you offer any comments about how the really narrow bars are with respect to crowding? Forearms occupy some of the space your knees are pumping in. Personally I love the way those narrow bars look, they are the business! Great video 👍
Hey Adrian, personally I didn't suffer that issue - I didn't go too low at the front end, I'm not running overly long cranks (172.5mm's on my TCR) and my knees tend to stay quite close to the top tube, so it wasn't a problem for me. But you're right that could be an issue if you have a lot of saddle to bar drop and use long cranks - you could likely solve that by switching to shorter cranks, though, but obviously the costs start mounting up as you change more things! More on optimal crank length here, if you're interested; www.bikeradar.com/advice/sizing-and-fit/what-is-the-best-crank-length-for-cycling/ Simon
I'm 6'1" and wear a 46" sport jacket, so traditionally I'd be fitted to 44cm bars (c to c). I have experimented with everything from 38 to 46. For me there is no additional comfort gain above 42. I have two go fast bikes with 40's, and two more relaxed bikes with 42's. I do feel a bit more slippery with narrow bars, and handling has a subtly quicker response. Go a bit narrower and see how it feels for you.
They only look silly to us because almost every bike you see is stocked with wider bars so you aren't used to seeing it. That is the case with almost every cycling innovation that changes the look of a bike. A great example of this is when 29 inch wheeled mountain bikes first came out. People thought they looked terrible. Now we look at a 26 inch wheeled bike and it just looks off. Personally, I love when riders think outside the box and push their equipment to the edge of what we consider acceptable in the pursuit of speed. It's the reason Graeme Obree is such a legend in cycling. If it makes you feel better, to non cyclists passing by in their cars we all look silly.
Exactly this. Why some are so resistant to smaller bars, what I consider to be essentially "free speed" without ever having tried smaller bars I don't know.
I certainly favour the inturning hoods to steal a few watts,44 at drops 38 at hoods. Too narrow bars are downright scary on windy descents,fine if you’re a flat lander!
I switched to 30 cm narrow handlebars on all my bikes due to fatigue on my wrists and believe it or not back pain. And I won't look back because I love them. BTW 4:16 I have an integrated Level 5 handlebar with my Ribble and they come in several widths and lenghts.
I recently changed form my standard 42cm to 40cm bars and was worried about comfort over longer rides/leverage on climbs, but I've had zero problems at all. The change was barely noticeable in fact. I can easily see how a 38 or 36 would be doable...but would stick to wider if I was going up SERIOUS gradients often. One question on the super narrow bars, as it brings the centre of gravity closer to the bike, does it increase the risk of sliding out the front wheel during aggressive cornering at all?
Hmm theoretically yes in practice but if your skills are adapted and ability the same then no. Only due to the fact wider bars have more leverage and is less sensitive to adjustments. But user error aside I don't see how that would be a problem
I had two different handlebar width recommendations from two different bike fitters. One suggested 40cm and one asked me to use 34cm. I spent a fair amount of time on both of the widths and here is what I found out: 1. I have to turn my shifters inward a lot when using 40cm to make things feel right. 2. Both handlebar widths felt normal and comfortable after a couple hours of usage. 3. Narrow means more aero
I have a 34 cm width bullhorn bar on my moulton. I like it alot. I can do a kind of time-trialish position on it with my elbows tucked in. I was originally more looking for the look. I think it was the only size I found available at the time. I was a bit concerned at first whether it would work or not. But it turned out fine! And I love it! Very easy to get into tight storage space. I also think it looks better as a narrow bar. I really don't like the extreme wide fad that is going on. My max even for mtb is 60cm or I will have shoulder pains.
2 watts improvement per 10mm at 45 kmh. Seems a bit more to me but this maybe accurate. I went from 420mm to 380mm and definitely noticed a difference during a KOM attempt.
When I rode my dad's mtb with narrow handlebars for the first time it felt so twitchy. I feel like now it's fine and it feels very fast indeed. I kind of want to switch to narrow handlebars n my road bike!
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I've recently switched to 40cm from 44cm, holy cow the difference is very noticeable!
According to my bike fitter I should be 42cm, (184cm, 72kg) but I am far more comfortable on 38cm, even when descending on the drops or tackling gravel. Would like to try a 36 or maybe 34. I did experiment with 46cm on my commuter, now that felt weird and I had no confidence cornering.
I'm fortunate enough to have an aero bike for fast group rides in the flatlands where I live and a climbing bike for vacations to the mountains. I run a wider bar (44cm) on my climbing bike because I like the stability when out of the saddle and ability to open my lungs more when seated. I run a 42cm on my aero bike. I've tried a 38cm bar but found it uncomfortable and the steering too fast / unstable. I do 90min rides mid-week and 4hr rides at the weekend. Comfort / being able to hold an (aero) position is more beneficial to me.
I ride 780mm carbon bars...Answer 20/20 bars...182 grams. When you have your hands narrow, or go down on your forearms, you are as aero as these bars. Rider is 90%of the frontal area and drag....not the bars. If your body is in an aero position, your bike is aero.
Hi Ryan, it's a Giant Contact SLR Flux OD2 stem - you can read more about it in my Giant TCR Disc long-term review; www.bikeradar.com/reviews/bikes/road-bikes/giant-tcr-advanced-pro-2-disc-long-term-review/
Hi Kam, the bar is made by Worx - you can find more info on it here; www.bikeradar.com/features/first-look-friday/nopinz-time-trial-kit/ and worxbikes.com/product/worx-handlebars/
I wish that were cheap ones from China. There are still Rose ones left (but not for long perhaps) at the same price (20 euros plus postage). To Japan where I am it is quite expensive. There are "grevil" (gravel?) handlebars from aliexpress but they are flared wide bars from say 38cm on the tops to 51cm on the drops. There are track bars too that are narrow but they have flat tops that will probably not allow the mounting of brifters.
Did I miss it or is this video missing a discussion of ergonomics. Obviously the presenter has gone beyond what would be ergonomically ideal, but I recently switched from the stock 42cm bars on my bike to 38cm compact bars just because I'm trying to avoid aches and numbness on 4hr+ rides. I watched a bunch of bike fit videos, then measured my shoulder width at 39cm. Narrower bars should allow a more natural wrist and shoulder position in addition to being more aero. I also appreciated the reduced reach, and am now more comfortable staying in the drops for extended periods of time.
For me narrow bars are unconfarteble to use climbing on the tops off the saddle, besides any aero gain is above 45kph, if you live in a area flat as a pankake maybe is a way to get a marginal gain, for climbing i find is rubish unless you climb on the drops all the time like pantani.
Why not go for a triathlon cockpit ? It's faster than dropbars. Hell even my 60cm flat bar setup will be faster because the aerodynamic profile is smaller and I can ride the same position like on hoods with bar ends. I'm not a UCI slave, I build my bike how I want.
Bikes with tri-bars aren't appropriate for bunch riding/racing, but yes, if you're riding an event where tri-bars are allowed, then they'll likely be even faster than super-narrow drop bars. Here's a BikeRadar Builds feature on my TT bike, if that's more your cup of tea; www.bikeradar.com/features/bikeradar-builds-simons-planet-x-exocet-2-time-trial-bike/ This was more of an experiment to try and find out how narrow you could go with drop handlebars before the handling is compromised too much. Thanks for watching! Simon
@@bikeradar There is nothing mentioned about a group effort in the video and he rides alone the whole time. So I assumed we are talking about a solo effort here. Cheers.
I ride 36 cm on gravel, I agree that i will never go with something wider ever again! After a ride or two acclimating, they feel incredibly stable and Ive never lacked for confidence in gnarly sections. To me, by far the biggest downside to small bars has been lack of space along the tops! With aerobars on, fitting on a light is a squeeze.
I'm not trading the ability to safely control my bike for 8W at 45 km/h. A crash will make you lose far more time than 8 extra watts. For what it's worth, I could slam my stem at least 4 cm lower for maximum STONKS, but I don't do it for the same reason (on top of also having the lower back flexibility of an aluminium aero frame).
Hi, Simon here. I totally agree that no aero gain would be worth compromising the ability to safely control your bike, but I didn't find the 26cm handlebars to be an issue - it was less comfortable riding out of the saddle on steep climbs, but otherwise I didn't find any major problems. As I say in the video, I'm not suggesting everyone go out and buy sub-30cm handlebars, but maybe consider a 36cm or 38cm bar - it's a cheap and effective aero upgrade compared to aero wheels or a new frameset.
Bring on the narrow bars! - Well, narrower than off the shelf bikes provide anyway. Roadies seem even more conservative than Airplane people, and less reason to be so. I don't like wide bars. I make plenty of torque and wide bars slow your inputs. I cut a FOOT out of my mountain bike bars.
Nope because a narrow handlebar does not only impact aerodynamics. PS I have a flat bar with a clip-on aerobar and (as a non-racer) have the best of these two worlds: a great handling control and an on-demand aero position.
What ever the new style of bars are on the Giant you are riding with pushed out drops looks Butt Ass Ugly!!!!!!! I would not buy those bar with your money! Leave it to the marketing department to sell Joe Bob weekend worrier ugly crap. Tell them it makes them faster by some made up number and they will buy them. Joe Bob could just drink less beer and be faster.
Im 5’10 and I swapped my bar from 400 to 340, just like the presenter said, it doesnt feel much different despite some extra effort required when riding off the saddle. I have no regret for this upgrade.
I've already stepped up the game. I only use a stem. I am now a perfect triangle on the bike.
If you listen carefully you can hear the screams of a million bike fitters screaming out in agony.
I’m 6’4, built more like a stretched out normal size person, I have narrow shoulders. Switching from stock 46 cm bars to 40 cm has been much more comfortable.
6’2” and I am about to do the same thing!
@@treborparkes let me know how it goes!
Im 42. I want to try 38 or even 36 now. But I figure if I can ride my tops and race on it which I know isn't standard I could get my hands pretty narrow.
Racing on velodrome that is
unless you are racing and desperate for every saved watt then the bars that fit you so you are comfy on the bike are the right bars imo
In some cases it's a win win, I love my zipp aero bars, nice and comfy on the tops when needed with the wide blade, and stability when in an aero tuck with more contact!
I've changed last year from the standard 44cm (for my 54cm frame) to a 40cm bar. And it is a BIG win to every aspect! I still ride a 44cm bar in another bike, but the 40cm one is spot-on for me! I intend to try something narrower in the future, like 38 or even 36 to see how it will get.
@@rominhoferrari 44 is far too wide unless you're over 190cm tall.
@@albr4 Bar width is more properly tied to shoulder width, not height. I ride 44cm bars on two different bikes, because my shoulders are 44cm. 42cm felt a bit too narrow for me.
@@rosco0101 Exactly, and shoulder width is tied with height. Handlebar width is not entirely to do with your shoulder width though, it's overall body size, if you're a smaller person like 5"5-5"8 if you tried 44cm bars they would stick out so much further than your thighs and hips do which would be terrible for cycling performance. In general you don't want your bars to stick out. If you ride in a group you can see it much clearer, when you ride behind someone whose bars are way too wide you can see their arms and bars sticking out. You want your arms and bars to be hidden when viewed from the behind. Also the bar width/shoulder width thing sounds like a good idea in theory but actually having bars narrower than your shoulders can be a lot more comfortable and that's what most people find when they try narrow bars.
Can you get over the look of a narrow bar? Or is speed not the #1 concern? Please let us know your preferred bar width in the comments! 👇🚴💨
Did you have a problem sticking out your elbows, negating some of the benefit? Or, is this less of an issue compared with tilting-in the levers? Could you test tilting in the levers on more normal width bars gives most of the advantage? Also, did play with stem length or use a formula to get the same reach to your normal hand position on the hoods?
Well the drop handlebar with hoods looks a bit silly to be honest. But I love my 34cm bullhorn!
I think a narrow handlebar looks better than a wider one. Idk why but wide handlebars looks goofy, unless it are flat bars
biggest advantage is you can wrap your bars with just half a roll of bar tape
I ride 20 cm wide handlebar, it's great.
Never been so fast on my roadbike before.
Went from 440 to 380. Surprisingly, slightly more comfortable and faster. Should have done this sooner!
I only used 400 on my first road bike, only £3.6k, I'm questioning if 360 or 380 when spend £8-9k on a Trek Emonda ALR build, be lighter than stock Trek Emonda SLR 9 AXS even though same groupset, I'm looking at more aero than light weight, also I hate seat mast
To me, the answer has to do with shoulder width..! I'm 6' 2" with narrow shoulder(44"perimeter), about to move from 44" down to 42 or 40" handlebar..!
If you are paying £8-9 k on an Emonda ALR, you are being conned.
How would the ALR aluminium frame be lighter than the SLR light carbon? 🤯
@@paddymurphy-oconnor8255
Frame £1300
To buy
SRAM Red AXS HRD £1200
Bjorn saddle and seat post $600
Wheelset 55mm be estimate £1600
Wheelset 88mm be estimate £1600
Continental GP5000 25mm tyres
Carbon TI rotors
XD15 bearings (£200 bottom bracket plus cost of other bearings)
Ceramic speed ospw
I think this give you most of idea
Hello! I've been using the Worx bars for the last year. Since I have 33cm drops on my track bike, it took me a long time to finally find such narrow bars for my road bike and I'm extremely pleased. My conclusions are somewhat similar to yours. The main drawback I found is that it is very difficult to rock the bike back and forth when out of the saddle on the hoods, so sprinting in that position is awkward, and sprinting is reserved for the drops. Otherwise, it's all advantages for me. One thing you didn't mention is that these are "sprint bars", i.e., they have a fairly round type drop shape, whereas all my previous narrow bars had "ergonomic" drops which didn't put me forward enough on the hooks of the drops, very frustrating. I had been looking for track bars that would fit on the road, without previous success. I got comments from a local group ride I joined, one person said that it was dangerous, as my brake levers were flared out beyond the bars when I initially placed the brake hoods 22cm apart (I put them back to normal 26cm later on), other people were too stunned to comment. For the next ride, I had pictures on my phone of other people using these bars, in case they were thinking of excluding me. However, all these local guys (Neuchatel, CH) have zero cycling culture, the ride was at about the same period as Dan Bigham's UK hour record, which I attended, the Grenchen track being only 40km from here. None of these guys would have had any clue about this, or the European track championships that were held in Grenchen shortly thereafter.
Got one, never looked back! Love it!
I agree with, and am intrigued by the practicals gains to be had with narrow bars, but the ones shown in this video look simply preposterous
Really, really cool video. Thank you for presenting facts that spot-on...
Thanks for watching! We love to experiment with bike setup, we're glad you found it useful.
@@bikeradar Well, am a mounty but the objective explanation also helps the offroaders to get the concept ;-)
Thanks for that. That you're going back to a more traditional size is all I need to know.
I'm 6'8" and recently put a 50cm bar with 24° flare on my gravel bike, which doubles as my road bike. I ride my mountain bike more and have 800mm bars on it. I'll never run a narrow drop bar without flare again. It's not for everyone, but for a tall guy like myself with wide shoulders a wide drop bar is a must!
I think you have absolutely no concept of a good fit.
I run a pair of 34cm Fouriers and I love them. I have come from 38cms and I run 33s and 30s on the track.I have put a longer stem to compensate for the shorter reach from a narrower bar but I like that they are 34cm in the drops aswell as the hoods. So the rule of thumb is 2cm narrower = 5mm longer if you go narrow.
Are 32cm handlebar uci legal? Or do i have to switch back to 38s cuz im way more comfortable with 32s
@@aymankhairy3197 I have done UCI races on the track and they are definitely legal on my 33s and the rules are pretty much the same on the road. There#s nothing saying anything on a minimum bar width in the rules.
@@AtibaQuildan cool. Thanks i really hate 38s because i have a narrow shoulder width
HOW? Im thinking of trying 38. My shoulders are prob a 39-40. Do you mass start race at the velo or is this for TT events
@@Red-ju4miUsually a fitter will measure the two boney bits between your shoulders usally because it more consistent than measuring your shoulders outside to outside.
But try some 38s out you will love them.
I do the odd bunch race but I am more of track sprinter/kilo riders. So if I am doing a kilo I am swapping out to my tt bars. But both my bars are narrow on the track.
I switched to a shorter 80mm stem and 38cm bars and I am never going back. I did step down with a 40 cm bar first to be sure I was comfortable before trying the narrower bar. Different frames will be effected differently. I have been cycling for almost 40 years now. Wish I had adjusted earlier. 6' 195lbs on 54 Pinarello frame. No handling issues, just more comfort and speed.
I'm a 6'2" guy and ride a 58 in most frame size which means I'm stuck with 44 stock handlebars which give me horrible neck and shoulder pain. I ride a 40 pain-free but it's a hassle procuring new bars every time I get a new bike. Oh and also--narrow is aero!
Is it though? How many new bikes are you buying lol
frame is too big for you
Damn makes me regret always buying 58 frames at tad under 6ft
@@Lore-cg2jg That will depend on the frame.
@@htdtr Kind of. I actually decided to build my new bike entirely custom, because I knew I'd have to swap handlebar, stem, cranks, saddle and cassette anyways. This way it was a lot cheaper, even if it was a decent amount of work.
Bought a 36cm bar today, can't wait to try it out tomorrow. I was using a 42cm and felt a little uncomfortable. 40 is okay but wanted to try narrower
How's the experience
@@tesseractvisuals6339 little uncomfortable for sprinting but it feels great for putting out a good average speed.
@@ridemorelivemore How tall are you? Do you still like the 36cm bars?
I ride 35cm hoods with 40cm drops, enve aero bars. It's the perfect combination. Any narrower than 35cm and you won't be able to climb out of the saddle on the hoods and 35 is plenty narrow enough for a super fast position. The 40cm drops are essential for sprinting and descending. You must also take into consideration that the "aero" effect of using narrow bars is nullified as soon as you sit up since you will automatically flare your elbows out to emulate riding a wider bar so if you can't hold a horizontal back-90 degree elbow aero position then narrow bars won't help you.
Hmm elbows flaring outward from hands rather inwards is a better aero effect even if you sit up or not. Theoretically from my TH-cam aero science degree. BUT THINK ABOUT THE WEIGHT SAVINGS.
Same reason aero bars are in the middle. I realized I could just ride the tops in a narrow position
40cm is my limit (with 50mm front wheel). Don't want it to be more sensitive to side winds and more lively when climbing.
I find that 38-40 is perfect for all around on the road bike. Track bike - 36. Gravel/CX - 44 and wider. and I am 191cm tall with quite wide shoulders, yet narrow bars allowing to roll shoulders better and get those aero advantages when riding at 45-55km/h on the flat (intervals of course)
I think they looks so silly I have to admit Vitor Campenaerts always sticks out in the peloton. Every climb must be like climbing on the tops 😂
Can you offer any comments about how the really narrow bars are with respect to crowding? Forearms occupy some of the space your knees are pumping in.
Personally I love the way those narrow bars look, they are the business! Great video 👍
Hey Adrian, personally I didn't suffer that issue - I didn't go too low at the front end, I'm not running overly long cranks (172.5mm's on my TCR) and my knees tend to stay quite close to the top tube, so it wasn't a problem for me.
But you're right that could be an issue if you have a lot of saddle to bar drop and use long cranks - you could likely solve that by switching to shorter cranks, though, but obviously the costs start mounting up as you change more things!
More on optimal crank length here, if you're interested; www.bikeradar.com/advice/sizing-and-fit/what-is-the-best-crank-length-for-cycling/
Simon
@@bikeradar Thanks!
I'm 6'1" and wear a 46" sport jacket, so traditionally I'd be fitted to 44cm bars (c to c). I have experimented with everything from 38 to 46. For me there is no additional comfort gain above 42. I have two go fast bikes with 40's, and two more relaxed bikes with 42's. I do feel a bit more slippery with narrow bars, and handling has a subtly quicker response. Go a bit narrower and see how it feels for you.
The ideal for my size is 420mm, but I prefer 380mm, narrower than that probably will be so uncomfy
you got a grip on that subject
Love it! 🤣
They only look silly to us because almost every bike you see is stocked with wider bars so you aren't used to seeing it. That is the case with almost every cycling innovation that changes the look of a bike. A great example of this is when 29 inch wheeled mountain bikes first came out. People thought they looked terrible. Now we look at a 26 inch wheeled bike and it just looks off. Personally, I love when riders think outside the box and push their equipment to the edge of what we consider acceptable in the pursuit of speed. It's the reason Graeme Obree is such a legend in cycling. If it makes you feel better, to non cyclists passing by in their cars we all look silly.
Exactly this. Why some are so resistant to smaller bars, what I consider to be essentially "free speed" without ever having tried smaller bars I don't know.
I certainly favour the inturning hoods to steal a few watts,44 at drops 38 at hoods.
Too narrow bars are downright scary on windy descents,fine if you’re a flat lander!
I switched to 30 cm narrow handlebars on all my bikes due to fatigue on my wrists and believe it or not back pain. And I won't look back because I love them. BTW 4:16 I have an integrated Level 5 handlebar with my Ribble and they come in several widths and lenghts.
I recently changed form my standard 42cm to 40cm bars and was worried about comfort over longer rides/leverage on climbs, but I've had zero problems at all. The change was barely noticeable in fact. I can easily see how a 38 or 36 would be doable...but would stick to wider if I was going up SERIOUS gradients often.
One question on the super narrow bars, as it brings the centre of gravity closer to the bike, does it increase the risk of sliding out the front wheel during aggressive cornering at all?
Hmm theoretically yes in practice but if your skills are adapted and ability the same then no.
Only due to the fact wider bars have more leverage and is less sensitive to adjustments. But user error aside I don't see how that would be a problem
I had two different handlebar width recommendations from two different bike fitters. One suggested 40cm and one asked me to use 34cm. I spent a fair amount of time on both of the widths and here is what I found out:
1. I have to turn my shifters inward a lot when using 40cm to make things feel right.
2. Both handlebar widths felt normal and comfortable after a couple hours of usage.
3. Narrow means more aero
Interesting info ChrisH. It also shows how much bike fitting is subjective.
I have a 34 cm width bullhorn bar on my moulton. I like it alot. I can do a kind of time-trialish position on it with my elbows tucked in. I was originally more looking for the look. I think it was the only size I found available at the time. I was a bit concerned at first whether it would work or not. But it turned out fine! And I love it! Very easy to get into tight storage space. I also think it looks better as a narrow bar. I really don't like the extreme wide fad that is going on. My max even for mtb is 60cm or I will have shoulder pains.
I always climb seated... with the lowest gear of 46 gear inches.
2 watts improvement per 10mm at 45 kmh. Seems a bit more to me but this maybe accurate. I went from 420mm to 380mm and definitely noticed a difference during a KOM attempt.
Where can I buy the handlebars from the video?
When I rode my dad's mtb with narrow handlebars for the first time it felt so twitchy. I feel like now it's fine and it feels very fast indeed. I kind of want to switch to narrow handlebars n my road bike!
I've recently switched to 40cm from 44cm, holy cow the difference is very noticeable!
But how does 360 mil bar work for a my Xs wife race bike? She is a 360 mm shoulder.
According to my bike fitter I should be 42cm, (184cm, 72kg) but I am far more comfortable on 38cm, even when descending on the drops or tackling gravel. Would like to try a 36 or maybe 34. I did experiment with 46cm on my commuter, now that felt weird and I had no confidence cornering.
I'm fortunate enough to have an aero bike for fast group rides in the flatlands where I live and a climbing bike for vacations to the mountains. I run a wider bar (44cm) on my climbing bike because I like the stability when out of the saddle and ability to open my lungs more when seated. I run a 42cm on my aero bike. I've tried a 38cm bar but found it uncomfortable and the steering too fast / unstable. I do 90min rides mid-week and 4hr rides at the weekend. Comfort / being able to hold an (aero) position is more beneficial to me.
I suspect my 780mm bars aren't too aero...
I ride 780mm carbon bars...Answer 20/20 bars...182 grams.
When you have your hands narrow, or go down on your forearms, you are as aero as these bars.
Rider is 90%of the frontal area and drag....not the bars. If your body is in an aero position, your bike is aero.
Use whatever bars you want. If you win, watch everyone copy
Can you recommend a 38cm carbon handlebar?
MerlinCycles has ControlTech bars from £27. 36cm size available too - www.merlincycles.com/controltech-one-road-handlebars-130301.html
@@bikeradar this is aluminium bar. How about carbon?
i changed my 400 canyon to 380, thinking of 360. like the narrower, and i think they look good. and they are more comfortable.
where do buy
I'm currently running 320mm I find them very comfortable.
I'm four foot tall, love these bars
What a beautiful stem! What brand and model, please??
Hi Ryan, it's a Giant Contact SLR Flux OD2 stem - you can read more about it in my Giant TCR Disc long-term review; www.bikeradar.com/reviews/bikes/road-bikes/giant-tcr-advanced-pro-2-disc-long-term-review/
One question, where can I find the narrow bar like that? It’s cool enough to take a shot
Hi Kam, the bar is made by Worx - you can find more info on it here; www.bikeradar.com/features/first-look-friday/nopinz-time-trial-kit/ and worxbikes.com/product/worx-handlebars/
44cm and 16degrees flare. Comfort wins on aero any day!
I have wide shoulders (long history of rugby!) so a 42cm suits me nicely
if you have a small chest /shoulders this could make sense. this would be so awkward for someone with a bigger build.
i like the presenter, amazing video
How much less peak power so you make with the lesser leverage of the narrower bars?
50%
I wish that were cheap ones from China. There are still Rose ones left (but not for long perhaps) at the same price (20 euros plus postage). To Japan where I am it is quite expensive. There are "grevil" (gravel?) handlebars from aliexpress but they are flared wide bars from say 38cm on the tops to 51cm on the drops. There are track bars too that are narrow but they have flat tops that will probably not allow the mounting of brifters.
Did I miss it or is this video missing a discussion of ergonomics. Obviously the presenter has gone beyond what would be ergonomically ideal, but I recently switched from the stock 42cm bars on my bike to 38cm compact bars just because I'm trying to avoid aches and numbness on 4hr+ rides. I watched a bunch of bike fit videos, then measured my shoulder width at 39cm. Narrower bars should allow a more natural wrist and shoulder position in addition to being more aero. I also appreciated the reduced reach, and am now more comfortable staying in the drops for extended periods of time.
38cm is perfect for me since my shoulder width is fairly narrow
Looking like a pro should end when you make riding less enjoyable and less fun!
Roadies go narrower, Mtbs go wider !!!
What widff is the correct widff...tune in for Simon's fforts
I use 38 cm roval rapide bars on my SL7. Would like to try 36 cm bars one day. I have very narrow shoulders, 37 cm indeed.
Simultaneously, on the dark side of the force: How wide MTB handlebars are too wide? :)
answer: yes
When you start clipping tree trunks
For me narrow bars are unconfarteble to use climbing on the tops off the saddle, besides any aero gain is above 45kph, if you live in a area flat as a pankake maybe is a way to get a marginal gain, for climbing i find is rubish unless you climb on the drops all the time like pantani.
Going from 46 to 38 was a noticeable difference. Lower frontal area is king given any level of fitness....
1:16 industry standard doesn't mean standard human height. if you are 180cm, then it make sense to call a 40cm narrow. That's very wide for my height.
From my experience climbing is easier with a relatively wide flat bar. And flat bars are more aero.
From my experience you're drunk
I run a 820mm handlebar.
Why not go for a triathlon cockpit ? It's faster than dropbars. Hell even my 60cm flat bar setup will be faster because the aerodynamic profile is smaller and I can ride the same position like on hoods with bar ends. I'm not a UCI slave, I build my bike how I want.
Bikes with tri-bars aren't appropriate for bunch riding/racing, but yes, if you're riding an event where tri-bars are allowed, then they'll likely be even faster than super-narrow drop bars.
Here's a BikeRadar Builds feature on my TT bike, if that's more your cup of tea; www.bikeradar.com/features/bikeradar-builds-simons-planet-x-exocet-2-time-trial-bike/
This was more of an experiment to try and find out how narrow you could go with drop handlebars before the handling is compromised too much.
Thanks for watching! Simon
@@bikeradar There is nothing mentioned about a group effort in the video and he rides alone the whole time. So I assumed we are talking about a solo effort here. Cheers.
I just prefer broader handle bar to compensate with my big build and big shoulder
I got 38cm bars and they feel fine. Had them a couple years and never regretted it. I'm not a huge guy though.
I use custom modified 30cm handlebar on my track bike haha
Nice! Thanks for sharing.
I use what the bike came with & my body got use to them,
LIKE 99% OF US DID
How is it custom modified?
@@elijahkwon422 I asked a carbon expert to modify my 36cm look track handlebar to 30cm
@@c_______C-r6t did it cost much and was there structural damage?
Never go full Aero
Isn't the point about aerodynamics undercut by the giant loops of exposed cable on display? I'm getting mixed messages.
I ride 36 cm on gravel, I agree that i will never go with something wider ever again! After a ride or two acclimating, they feel incredibly stable and Ive never lacked for confidence in gnarly sections. To me, by far the biggest downside to small bars has been lack of space along the tops! With aerobars on, fitting on a light is a squeeze.
Thanks for your insight! Perhaps we could see a shift to narrower bars found stock on new bikes in the coming years...
"gnarly sections" 😂
@@HollyBoni You've clearly never ridden Unbound.
@@HollyBoni 37th this year, on a surly crosscheck. Nothing to brag about but I'm not a scrub either.
@@bikeradar That would be welcomed!
As an ex-national swimmer, my shoulders will never be deemed aero. All bars are narrow to me!
Swimming will not change your socket to socket shoulder distance :)
@@krbndlls I must just be built like a triangle then!
But the biggest question is where on earth can I buy this?
Anybody go from a 44cm to a 38cm? What did you experience?
I want a narrow Handel bar so i can lane filter in the city
Much better for storing bikes in the corridor
I'm not trading the ability to safely control my bike for 8W at 45 km/h. A crash will make you lose far more time than 8 extra watts. For what it's worth, I could slam my stem at least 4 cm lower for maximum STONKS, but I don't do it for the same reason (on top of also having the lower back flexibility of an aluminium aero frame).
Hi, Simon here. I totally agree that no aero gain would be worth compromising the ability to safely control your bike, but I didn't find the 26cm handlebars to be an issue - it was less comfortable riding out of the saddle on steep climbs, but otherwise I didn't find any major problems.
As I say in the video, I'm not suggesting everyone go out and buy sub-30cm handlebars, but maybe consider a 36cm or 38cm bar - it's a cheap and effective aero upgrade compared to aero wheels or a new frameset.
44cm Salsa Cowchipper (slightly flared). Comfort=speed to me🤷
Why do English video channels show riding without gloves so much?
how narrow is too narrow? if u are like us ,mere mortals, it's when we feel uncomfortable, loss of confidence, and pain.
Bring on the narrow bars! - Well, narrower than off the shelf bikes provide anyway. Roadies seem even more conservative than Airplane people, and less reason to be so. I don't like wide bars. I make plenty of torque and wide bars slow your inputs. I cut a FOOT out of my mountain bike bars.
My drops bars are 60cm at the hoods and 75cm ah the drops. I went the other way 🙃
Ideal handlebar for t-rex
Best bars are pro vibe aero pursuit
I want to try 32 cm or so after seeing this video
I prefer 780mm to 800mm
I find narrow bars seriously uncomfortable.
How aero is to aero... this is just stupid
Each to their own! 🤗
Too*
Nope because a narrow handlebar does not only impact aerodynamics.
PS
I have a flat bar with a clip-on aerobar and (as a non-racer) have the best of these two worlds: a great handling control and an on-demand aero position.
Ride 52cm on a gravel bike haha. Narrow looks cool tho
it’s his shoulders that are too narrow. looks like mr punyverse from stoke-on-trent.
Or you could use regular bars and put some clip on aero bars on, that covers everything but road racing.
would you sell the bar to me ?
aliexpress : so many kids picked up cycling.
What ever the new style of bars are on the Giant you are riding with pushed out drops looks Butt Ass Ugly!!!!!!! I would not buy those bar with your money! Leave it to the marketing department to sell Joe Bob weekend worrier ugly crap. Tell them it makes them faster by some made up number and they will buy them. Joe Bob could just drink less beer and be faster.
420 mm all day, bb!!!
Umm I'll just train harder and save the cash and a potential crash 😬
most amount of bollocks i’ve ever heard