👉 Fosi V3: amzn.to/4eaH5MZ 👉 Douk A100: amzn.to/3ZyUD05 00:00 - Start 03:37 - Compare Contrast 06:19 - V3 Impressions 10:04 - A100 Impressions 13:39 - Sound Clip Comparisons 15:42 - Final Thoughts **Disclaimer** The links in this post are Amazon affiliate links. If you make a purchase through them, I may earn a small commission-at no extra cost to you! These commissions help me invest in better equipment and improve the quality of my reviews and content. Thank you for your support!
I am old! My long perspective is that people who enjoy music have never had it better. Back in the day, I owned a Marantz 2275 Receiver which weighed almost 40lbs. Cost around 600 bucks back then. The sound I get from my tiny Class D amp now sounds just as good to my never was audiophile ears! Appreciate what you have!
Thanks for an honest review. If I may, I'd like to add that upgrading the op amps can make a substantial difference. The stock NE5532 IC-based op amps (typically used as the stock versions in most Chi-Fi class D amps) tend to be somewhat bright and thin sounding overall (depending on amp of course). Changing them out for the much heralded Sparkos Labs discrete SS3602 op amps (and they are much more expensive), this V3 really opens up and brings it a step closer to what many audiophiles would enjoy. With the Douk (yes, I have both of these amps), the op amp sockets are spaced so close together that using wider discrete op amps such as the Sparkos Labs versions, won't fit (bummer). Thus, in the Douk A100, you are left with having to use the smaller IC-based op amps. Certain Burson discrete versions may fit (I didn't have any of them on hand). I've found that with all of the Fosi class D amps, changing out the op amps can make anywhere from a noticeable difference - to a world of difference. Of course, what you use as ancillary equipment helps also. OK - I'm done.
I've yet to see a single measurement that showed these amps were improved by swapping op amps or power cords. Advocates never do blind tests so proceed with caution.
Do you also find the Douk A100 (stock) to be the better sounding amp as Ron has? I own the V3 and think it is a great amp but am curious if the stock A100 even sounds even better(both stock). Thanks.
@@10sassafras I've often found it interesting in my almost 60 years of enjoying fine equipment, the approaches different folks take when evaluating/listening to fine audio gear. There are those on the "techno-weenie" side of the house who swear only by what they can measure. On the other hand, there are those (and there are many included here) who use their ears to determine what sounds good. Many aspects of audio can be labeled as being intangible - that is, "not being measureable," yet the sound qualities can be of a high order. Your ears - especially if you are a musician or listen to quite a bit of live music - will set you in the right direction. In the end, there are a variety of outstanding audio components that sound absolutely wonderful (accurate), but may not measure very well - now go figure?
Well... Better late than never. I appreciate this video. Last year I was spending too much time on Hi-Fi forums. The hype around these cheap Fosi amps is out of this world. I am so glad that I didn't buy one and chose to purchase a second hand Creek 4240 amplifier for 130€ instead. The Creek sounds lovely. It's one of those amps which directly competes with the NAD 3020 (which is impossible to find now). Unfortunately, these old amps need to be serviced sooner or later. And it cost me another 150€. And yet... At the back of my head I always hear a voice from the internet saying "You should have bought the Fosi it measures better". Anyways, it's a huge ramble. I would love to see you compare a vintage $200 AB amp with a Fosi V3.
And this is the key thing - amps like this are making near or actual hi-fi quality available to people who have previously only been exposed to mediocre Bluetooth speakers, boomy soundbars or those shockingly bad, yet still expensive mini systems (or, going back a bit further, mainstream stack systems in the 80s and 90s). I'd love a mid to high end system, but it's a huge investment in time, money and space, so a pair of ZA3s, a decent record player an equally decent but not high end streamer and some nice speakers and headphones has brought me back to enjoying music rather than having it as background noise for the first time in decades.
@@Harrisongrey19 Now don't be like that. I agree that they are overhyping them. I have the first V3 and mono and played around with op amps out of curiosity and I could use it for my desktop system. Do they compete with better gear. No... Are they a decent entry start if people don't op amp roll yeah. Put a Wiim pro as a pre. Get some decent low end speakers and this is a good start on the music journey
@@wegardfjeld3789 I can agree with that…but people calling it hifi are dead wrong. Especially the ones saying it bests systems 10x it’s price. There the same people Turing theirs noises up at people who can afford a better system. It works both ways. Buy these fosi fanboys are out of control.
Ron, Fosi V3 is ancient by now. It doesn't have PFFB so its treble response will change depending on speaker impedance curve. You should check out the new Fosi V3 Monoblocks (PFFB) and Aiyima A70 or (preorder) A70 Monoblocks (both PFFB) with good discrete op-amps.
Yes, or the ZA3. The newer crop are indeed objectively superior and a significant step up, and are the standard to be judged in the ultra budget category. Also the higher output power supply is REQUIRED, any review not using it is useless. Do not buy one of these amps without the 10a power supply, period. Ron should really give them a chance - get the real design power supply (what it's MEANT to run with), and some better op amps, and hear the latest designs. These newer designs are just generally superior, but the subjective increase in quality is not primarily due to pffb... the load dependence of certain non-compensated class D designs is almost irrelevant, you're talking maybe +/- 1 db at 20khz, that's not the issue anyone is going to have with a listening test.
I've been using the Dayton Audio HTA200 and a pair of Sony SSCS5 speakers for my bedroom. Granted, it certainly is not as small as the microamps that you reviewed, but it certainly sounds good, the build quality is there, not to mention that the tubes make a nice cozy glowing night light.
I have also been using the HTA200 paired with PSB Stratos speakers (a larger than normal bookshelf speaker, to give you an idea of scale). I bought the HTA200 because the PSB Stratos are 4 ohm, and none of my vintage receivers play down to 4 ohm. It his a powerhouse of an amp, and if you didn't know better, you would swear it was driving tower speakers. I have had a few friends (guys with thousands of dollars in their systems because, as you know, there's always a pissing match between dudes), and they are all very impressed with, and a bit jealous of, the sound it delivers. I am actually getting ready to buy the smaller HTA100 for our family room so that I can ditch our crappy sound bar and just enjoy 2-channel when watching movies. The HTA200 is impressive... I wish NRD would do a review of it.
I have mentioned this here before. If you want to go all out, my main Amplifier is the Rogue Audio Sphinx V3 Magnum Edition. I have it paired with Klipsch Heresy IV speakers. It's a great setup.@matthewpeterson3329
I have a Nobsound AV-525 which seems similar. Got it in March and have really enjoyed it except recently it started dropping a channel after a half hour or so of listening. The one year warranty doesn’t seem to cover much so I dropped it off with a repair service- fingers crossed.
Ron, Great honest review as always. Thanks for what you do. I have 2 v3s. I use one for each channel. That along with the the sparkos opamps made them much better at detail, separation, sound stage, and really did wonders for that top end. I did it as a fun little experiment. I am hoping to replace them soon with a set of Burson time keepers. If you play around with the sparkos, in your v3, I would love to hear your comparisons to the Burson. Thanks
I use these for travel systems and in my bedroom. These don't really fall in the same crowd with fancy speakers. Any speaker with a rise in the top end is a no go for me, and many modern speakers have this. I want an in room response that tapers slightly downward. Honestly, with decent full range speakers, these amps sound from good to better. Speakers that are fussy with amp type are another no go. A stable design will inflict it's own characteristic over any reasonable neutral amp. For those quirky speakers, one better choose one of the Fosi amps with tone controls, like the Fosi BT30D Pro. What these amps are is pretty low noise. I hear no audible hiss from the speakers with amps based on this chipset.
THIS x many hundreds… please and thank you! I’m ready to see what you and the GR team have come up with Ron, and I’m ready to buy, just waiting for the release video and HOPEFULLY you had input into their name because they already look like a dead sexy design) pretty exciting stuff coming!
@@siriosstar4789Bizarre comment. It is untrue that crossovers are an extra expense and that they have to be installed by GR Research. I’m puzzled as to how/why you fabricated such a fantasy.
I use the Fosi for desktop NF system, and it's great for that use. Not replacing my Anthem STR integrated in my main system with the Fosi any time soon however...
I have really enjoyed the Aiyima brand. My first Class D was the Lepy. They sounded great but low build quality. The small size of these amps is wonderful. They work well with Alexa Dots in garage and basement but with a decent DAC off a computer very fulfilling sound. Aging laptops make for a nice streaming device. Like someone said below music lovers have never had it so good!
Douk Audio is good stuff, but I got to have tubes somewhere. Douk sells components to other companies in partnership. What those companies do with the components is their business. So you get some cheaper brands with similar components that may not sound as good as Douk Audio. And that's fine, it's a free market. I use the Douk Audio ST-01 Pro with upgraded tubes. The Chinese 6K4 tubes were distorted so I replaced them with GE JAN 5654W New Old Stock USA tubes. That combination is Hi-Fi with enough power to drive my speakers down to 30 HZ. The sound is very similar to my HH Scott LK-72 tube amp (though that tube amp can play much louder than the Douk). That Scott is Hi-Fi enough for me. And I am a musician. Great video, thanks for posting.
The JAN tubes command about twice the price as the consumer NOS tubes. They don't build tubes like they used to; current production is less robust and often doesn't meet the published specs. Driver and rectifier tubes provide the most bang for the buck.
@@1mctous The pair of JAN tubes I bought were only $17, tested and matched. Well worth the price for their great sound. Army surplus used in radio gear.
Ron: A number of years ago you had a video build of a Hypex amp. I liked it so much, I went out and buitl one and still find it sounds quite good. What is your current opinion of that amp and how it compares to these cheap ones?
Ahhh Ronnie the end was touching!!! I drive past T.I. in North Dallas a whole lot I'm experimenting with the new dual chip boards a TPA3255 dedicated to each channel Also have Gan-Fet evaluation kits for Amplifier builders that can go to a true 750wpc shooting for that boutique product line probably with a Aluminum & Wood design ... After I get perfect the Sound in my Lab!!
@@wegardfjeld3789 Really? Then how do you explain that a pair of Fosi V3 Mono successfully - i.e. they sound better in all regards - replaced an Anthem P2 Statement? The speakers are B&W 802 D4 ...
@@matto.4558 There are 3 options to your reply. Either something is wrong with the speakers so everything sounds the same. Something wrong with the anthems or something is wrong with your ears... I have the previous V3 and the mono, replaced the op amps with Burson and sparkos different models. I've swapped the PSU and cables because they are of such sh quality it is a 100% source of interference.. Here is the sad fact. The V3 crumbles at low db, they are more like a 25-35w in actual performance. They lack in sound staging, placement, low end and mid detail. If you enjoy your V3's that much good for you, but for 99% of the people that have functioning gear and ears they are not even beating low end integrated from Yamaha, Rotel, Cambridge ++.
@@wegardfjeld3789 Sorry, but you're completely wrong. The described case is one out of five. We are five people who ditched Anthem power amps (P2s or A2s; their bias voltages were tuned and they were checked periodically by an engineer who worked at the R&D department of the manufacturer) for Fosi V3 MONOs, and we have different speakers: the said B&W 802 D4, Tannoy Profile 637, two different models of Paradigm (with improved crossovers), three pairs custom made by an extremely qualified sound engineer (one of, if not the best in the country). Two of us are from a family of musicians (soloists and classical music teachers). Two of us worked as consultants in shops selling hi-fi & high end equipment, including Yamaha and Cambridge Audio. All of us have an extensive experience (decades) of listening to hi-fi and high end gear. So, can you realistically consider that all the power amps and speakers, and all of our ears can have issues? The problem has to be on your side, not ours. Btw, Yamaha, Rotel and Cambridge Audio can be considered, at best, a little above mediocre. Even their flagships.
To me, the Fosi has what my ear perceives as an 80 Hz bulge or maybe a narrow band spike. The difference I heard in the first clip was the tambourine in the background was audible with the Douk and completely missing in the Fosi. It was a very stark difference on my system. Interesting that the apparent differences are in what I would consider micro bands, which makes me wonder if there's a harmonic based difference, especially with the Fosi.
Ron, appreciate the awesome review. One suggestion, maybe include a traditional AB amp in the sound clips as a point of comparison as many of your viewers are more familiar with AB amp sound.
Do you notice the sound of the V3 degrading as it warms up? I have one and it gets pretty warm. I noticed plenty of harshness from it before doing some EQ to tone down some of the tweeter’s range. I also noticed that using the 32v power supply allows the V3 to run WAY cooler, basically cold. When I use the 48V it gets warm even without music playing.
I am running a pair of Aiyima A07 in mono mode on 48v and they are hot to touch, sometimes with no music. They appear to be great driving Mag lrs plus. Thinking to try Purifi.
@@floof3942 That seems pretty good, just running one speaker per unit not to mention the improvement to low impedance driving since the bridge on these 3255 is actually parallel. So basically you don’t get more voltage but you get more power through extra current. Two units will offer extra heat dissipation. I bet it would be nice to add some slow moving fan cooling.
Everyone's mileage varies and the speakers could be the make or break on this. Maybe I got lucky and found a good match for the V3 right away. My "listening room" is unfortunately my 9'x10' bedroom, like literally where I sleep. I do have some treatment in the way of absorbers and diffusers though. I use a tiny 8"x8" PC running Tidal to a Zen DAC V2 to the Fosi V3. I installed the sparkos op amps in the V3 from day one. The Fosi V3 to a diy speaker kit by Soundblab called The Dynamites. I left my thoughts on the Dynamites youtube page. My experience has been amazing honestly. I've been impressed with sound and performance of the V3 in my setup. Next I want to monoblock with Fosi V3 Mono (sparkos and a muse in each) and hope mine don't release the magic smoke like yours did. Even though we have different experiences on this one, thanks for the no nonsense review!
I did the same because I enjoy the experiment. After buying the burson v7 the price is now competing vs better gear that is better though. Not worth sadly
You raised the question but never answered it: Are mini class D amplifiers truly “high end” or not? If yes, why spend hundreds or thousands more for the other amps you’ve reviewed or own? That’s the question, isn’t it?
Greetings, these amplifiers are designed for a specific purpose within their cost. Do not expect their performance to be anything else, they are very good equipment that democratizes listening to good sound at a more than reasonable cost.
Ya these chifi class d Amps are cheap. They distort quick at high volume and have noise in them. And they don’t have good depth of field with placement and a relatively narrow sound stage. You get what you pay for deposit all the Yahoo fan boys that get triggered by reality and will tell you they are as good or better than higher quality products…
RON, I'm glad you got a little love from your sweetheart ❤ . Also glad you giving a little love to these inexpensive amplifiers. You could start a new channel Cheap New Record Dude.
Nice comparison. I think the reason why the A100 performs better is because it has the post-filter feedback technology (PFFB) that the Fosi V3 lacks. The Aiyima A0 is closer to the Douk Audio though it has less features for connecting a subwoofer.
The Williston Audio TH-cam channel with his Amplifier Dyno shows consistently that the power ratings are exaggerated with these chip amps But the power is still crazy high just not as rated
@@peterbaugh51I am good with 3 to 8 watts per channel Getting a couple 3 watt monoblocks LOL They will play higher than I want or need I just have to be careful with speaker choices At least we can all get what we want
@@middleearthltd Yes some speakers do require more power to sound really good and I don't mean just playing loud. I don't play very loud but boy I do like that deep bass and good clear mid-range and crystal clear highs. 85 DB is about as loud as I would ever play it and not for very long. That's just too loud for me. At about 74 DB my couch is shaking. But I need some good clean power per channel to make that happen with smaller speakers. And 3 Watts really is no joke when you're talking about efficient speakers. That's plenty loud enough!
@@peterbaugh51 I have learned to enjoy quiet listening and I am right there with you I abused my hearing….concerts, firearms, gas/diesel powered things, power tools…. Now that I am old I decided to to stop insulting my hearing, wear hearing protection and ingest food/supplements that can help to maintain hearing You can’t heal your hearing but you can maintain it and I would encourage anyone to at least try and learn to listen and enjoy lower sound levels in music listening You might find you enjoy it and I still listen to Black/Doom/Death Metal at classical music levels and have greater enjoyment of all of it
@@middleearthltd Wise words my friend, I am doing the same. I played professionally in a rock band. I have heard plenty of loud music. More than enough for a lifetime.
I have an Aiyima A07, a small Keces E40 and a Hegel h160. The 2 class AB amps make my Focal 807Ws sound very good but the A07 really steps down the SQ by a significant amount. All three drive my budget Triangle Zetas really well with differences in the performance by a degree with the Hegel adding a bit of liveliness but the differences are far less with amp upscaling. The Triangles seem to play with anything. Never tried the A07 on my Dalis but the Dalis show the greatest differences between the Keces and Hegel. The Hegel is livelier with a bit more weight/attack on piano, voice, while the Keces is smooth, a bit warmer with less glare or sharpness. The differences are noticeable but both presentations are enjoyable and closer than I would have thought while being a bit different that can fit better depending on music or mood. Also, different dacs were used which further the differences. The Keces was hooked to a Topping D70s which smooths, rounds a bit while I used the internal dac of the hegel which is a bit more analytical so it could be that too. I find the performance so good with the Keces I call it my little hegel at about a quarter the power output. The Aiyima A07 is typically noted as a good class D performer in its range and even higher. But it doesn't compare to the two class AB amps I have albeit at multiples of dollars more. I think with certain speakers, although there's no formula in choosing them, that even a cheap little class d can give pretty good performance that could satisfy many people but the few who live by absolute performance. It is also a means to get people into a 2 channel setup who have lived by IEMs and phones with streamed music on the go. It doesn't add much bulk to a living room/bedroom and there's always powered speakers as well, many of which employ class D at a still affordable price. My preference is 2 channel passive speakers which for me works and I can swap gear in and out. If the amp section in a speaker goes, your kind of stuck. I have no experience with higher end class D like Purifi and such but its likely that's the future of midfi/hifi as the performance as touted by those that have been in this hobby a long time and that have experience with lots of gear are stating its a legitimate contender for SQ...and in a smaller and lighter package to boot which for me is a big plus. Still, I just picked up a class AB amp in the VA CA-1 which I will receive today to see if this amp lives up to the hype. I am downsizing in equipment. Still with class AB but looking at lighter options than big amps, integrated, etc. Also gearing my listening towards lower power but high performance. I can see where someone needs high watts if not high current capability if they listen at louder levels but I listen at lower to moderate SPLs at my age and find smaller amps can do the trick without chancing a hernia moving it around when I swap in and out gear. If a speaker is known to require alot of power to move them towards their best performance I typically avoid that speaker. Many times these kinds of speakers are designed to give more bass punch and definition but as long as the lower mids on higher are good, a small sub can fill in the rest. And I can do without a sub but sometimes the fillin adds to a performance. Don't need to be knocked down by bass but some like it. I have a use for the A07 and that is for music on the go if and when I travel. Easy enough to put together a small system for a camp, hotel stay or whatever mobile use. For home use, it just seems to sit in the corner right for now. Lots of choices for any budget.
Nice video NRD 🎉💯👍⭐😎💥. A friend of mine is in need of a budget amp just to power two long throw 8-inch subs. Sounds and looks like the A100 will fit the bill. Really like the fact your Bride is in the "wheel house" for your audio passion!! May this pairing never end!! Take care and all the best for you and yours! Look forward to coming videos!
I recently had occasion to set up a second audio system as some upgrades to my initial system allowed me to shift over to a main area of my office. I wanted to keep a second system by my computer work area but I didn't want to invest in another $1k amp, which I just had for the main system (NAD C268). And also, I wanted to experiment with mono blocks and a dual subwoofer set up. I decided to try the 'cheap' phenomenon out and grabbed two Fosi ZA3's to power a pair of KEF Q350's. Look, I know may of us audiphiles love love love to hide behind the elite shielf of price and brand - people calling $1k gear mid-fi is hysterical to me. But anyway - this setup sounds really good. No, of course it isn't competing with a multi-thousand dollar Hegel amp, etc. but the sound quality one gets on its own terms is better than decent. Much better than decent. Then you consider price and it's a no-brainer for anyone who is really price sensitive or, like me is setting up a second system, or is new and is looking for a first system with a "fancy" setup like mono blocks. I'd recommend these without hesitation.
Have a Fosi (not the model you have reviewed) connected to laptop driving a spare set of speakers (some old B&Ws I didn't want to get rid of as don't like to junk working kit). A cheap amp giving better sound than I would get with PC speakers of a similar price to the amp (admittedly the good speakers doing a lot of heavy lifting). Had no issue doing bare wire connections on the Fosi
Typical low distortion power on 48 volts is 100w/ch on 8 ohms, 190w/ch on 4. The 300 per spec is TI's "absolute maximum" rating. The chip will sustain that level of power and distortion for about 3 seconds before going into protection and shutting down.
From TPA3255 Datasheet: Total Output Power at 1%THD+N - 260-W Stereo into 4 Ω in BTL Configuration - 150-W Stereo into 8 Ω in BTL Configuration - 480-W Mono into 2 Ω in PBTL Configuration So you can safely call this a 150W/ch amplifier into 8 Ohms with a 50V supply of sufficient current capability (~10A) and a reasonable heat sink. It is efficient enough so that heroic cooling is not required.
@@jeffberwick At the end user level working with OTS amplifiers or boards you will find that most have thermal issues. That is they will overheat and go into protection after just a few minutes of being overdriven. Therefore I do not suggest going over about 36 to 40 volts with any OTS implementation. The problem is, of course, getting enough cooling in such tiny cases or smallish board areas. At 36 volts you can reasonably expect 75, 150 and 220 watts RMS at THD way less than 1% on 8, 4 and 2 ohms respectively. I'm currently working with modified Aiyima A07 amplifiers, with 36 volt 6 amp supplies on a pair of tower speakers that come in at about 6 ohms and 85db sensitivity. This arrangement will get loud enough that I can't stay in the room with it (>90 dba) and will run all day at more normal listening levels (75 to 80dba) without becoming more than warm to touch. At the design level the TPA3255 chip includes a full suite of protections for DC offsets, over voltage, under voltage, over current and temperature. Error signals include Clip/Otw (THD >0.1%, temp >125c) and Fault (voltage, current, offset, overheat). It also includes a resistor programmable current limit that defaults to 17 amps. I would strongly recommend that all of these features should be implemented for any professional application to minimize the risk of in-use failures. Despite it's small size this is a very robust chip. Here, as with the consumer grade implementations cooling is an issue. It takes a fairly robust heat sink and possibly a fan to keep it cool when driven to it's limits.
Yes, I agree that most implementations have thermal issues. The TPA3255 needs an excellent thermal interface (high quality grease, like arctic ceramique, clean planar mounting on an adequate heatsink) to perform at its maximum potential. I have the actual TI eval board and run it at 50V with no issues. I like the headroom at 50V to stay out of clipping at musical peaks.
@@jeffberwick A couple of volts down to 48 to match up with readily available power bricks and common capacitor ratings is not going to harm your headroom any. In fact even jumping down to 36 volts only costs you about 2db of headroom. (Keep in mind that class D, running on tightly regulated supplies doesn't have the same headroom burst mechanism as class AB) I've kludge wired the Clip/OTW and Fault pins to leds in my A07s and at comfortable levels with 36 volts the lamps don't even flicker, so headroom isn't really an issue for me. It would likely become an issue only if I was bent upon making my ears bleed. Indeed the thermal solution is crucial for anything but consumer grade implementations. The chip is tiny, has no bonded heat spreader and is sadly very easy to crush without the right spacers under the heat sink, so good solutions are a bit harder to implement. As I keep reminding people, there is a reason why the chi-fi amps come with 32 volt supplies... It's enough power for most people but wont melt the chip.
I did change the OP amp on Two ZA3 mono and I’m happy to say they are as good ‘sounding’ as 10 times the price diy mono amp I own .. they just don’t have enough amperage to drive power hungry tower speaker BUT they do drive my Maggie’s pretty well.
Your videos are both fun and informative. I have a couple of bedroom systems using little class 'D' amps. One is using a Fosi V3 connected to a pair of Elac UB52 speakers with Tara Labs biwire cables. I am feeding the V3 from Wiim pro plus via Transparent R/C interconnects. With this set-up I do not have the forward presentation you described. Overall sound is quite good and well balanced much of this I attribute to my fairly expensive cables. These little amps are known to have treble interactions with their load. I hear that a new Fosi amp will have circuits to correct this situation?
This is good to hear and maybe it’s just a bad pairing with the caladan speaker and that’s that. Good question about it being addressed but unfortunately I don’t know the answer.
Danny has a new line using planar magnetic tweeters instead of the Peerless soft domes in the Encore series. He found one that plays down to 1 KHz, making driver integration easier.
@@1mctous yes I seen that one. I was hoping for a LGK 2.1 with the 6.5 woofer. But now that I look more at the video. The drivers look like GR-Research but the cabinets they are in don't look GR-Research. I am looking to build the LGK 2.1 but the white driver is driving me crazy.
I bought a Fozi v3 with the bigger power brick to play through Klipsch Cornwalls. I wanted to see what the hype was about. After 30 hours of listening....... and for the money it's worth the $100, BUT don't expect more. In other words don't expect it to image or soundstage as good as a Yamaha AS301. Get the Yamaha AS301 for $350 and you'll be MUCH happier!!! Now if you need a cheap meh/good sounding amp for background music in the warehouse to play over the forklifts, Fozi v3 is your little helper and it's not terrible for the right application. HiFi isn't it's game, even though all of the advertizing states otherwise. Cheap Audioman went on and on and on about the Fozi v3 and that's why I bought it. Boy was he wrong! I'd say he was making $$$$ through his affiliation. I was so let down after he gushed over it for multiple videos. It's a BIG NO for Hifi and a big yes for the garage.... while you weld a race car roll cage.
Cheap audio Man is an online salesman, not an audio reviewer, although he tries to pass himself off as one. To him everything sounds "great" so buy it with my affiliate link
@@jondonnelly3 All the TH-cam salesman love to make claims yet never back them up with evidence. It's so easy to say this is better that that when you never have to actually demonstrate that you can hear a difference, all you have to do is say you can. They really don't like it when someone like me calls them out and asks them to show us them passing a double blind listening test
@@crazyprayingmantis5596 You are correct. Even though I thought his gushing had merit, I lost focus. Well, I don't hate him at all and I'm sure is a great guy, but he needs to tone it down on bad products. Interesting guy and no hard feelings. All the best to him.
The douk sounds better to me. But both amps only are ok for background music in a kitchen or as Amp for the Television, the powersupply with 32V is strong enough for such szenarios. Use a 48V/10A makes no sense to me, cause the Amps gets to hot to manage the output 300W per Channel is more a PMPO Spec. A bit more than 100W per channel looks realistic to me.
It isn't the number of watts in the amp, but at what point the watts get clipped. If the actual maximum of potential watts the amp has is 2000 watts when unclipped and it is clipped at 200, that is all cool clear sound.
"A couple Benjamins?" Less than one was my A07. Honestly, I don't use it but instead use my BasX A2 for my Danish MTMs (100 hz hi-pass) and bi-amp my quad 15" woofers with V3 mono blocks (100 hz low pass). Well, I guess is isn't "bi-amping" with 5 amps.
i use the aiyima t9 pro with Dali spektor 1 speakers and an audio cromecast using the optical input. In a small office for the money the sound in amazing
I am running a V3 for the 4" full range speakers in my zero baffle active speaker set up. I must say, your sample did sound harsh compared to my set up. The previous speakers I was using did in fact sound harsher and more fatiguing as well. So if well matched the V3 can sound quite nice. Really want to hear some samples of op amp rolling! Great vid.
@@jazzboy Easily. Put them on low end dac and speakers you might not notice. Put them on higher quality items you will notice the lack in the bottom end, mid range is sterile and the highs are distorting bright. Then you put in something better to amplify and now you will feel and hear the music. It can be something as simple as a guitar string or a bass drum.
I should add I have the old V3 and the mono's and I have op amped rolled. I bought them to play around with and for the nearfield desktop system. They can't compete vs my mother's old Cambridge Audio Azur a640 and that says too much.
Fascinated to hear you tried the Caladans! Thing is, I have a pair of open baffles which I use with my 300W class D stereo power amp, but it has a gain control which I can adjust down so as to retain a decent amount of play in my preamp's volume control. I find this necessary because my OBs are extremely sensitive (they can be driven by a 2W tube amp). So my question is: with this amount of power, how does volume control (without gain control) manage with sensitive OB's? Don't you find you have to be very careful and only have a restricted amount of rotation in the volume knob?
I have a V3 in my office and the only complaint that I have with it is that it is a little to hot on top. Thank God I have a Schiit Loki in the chain and I can calm down the top to my liking.
I've heard, as a starter amp, the V3 is supposedly good for small rooms & near-field use, like PC speakers. Especially when you upgrade the op amps to something like Sparkos SS3602. Personally, I have a large room so have my eye on a pair of Outlaw Audio 2220 monoblocks in an upgrade path from powered to external power & passive speakers, but never having heard of the A100 I'm kinda curious for a follow-up regarding the comparison between these two after rolling op amps. There's also starter monoblocks from Chi-Fi brands like Fosi, Douk and Aiyima.
Ron, love to hear your thoughts on the A100 after both an op-amp upgrade AND, PS upgrades. Something tells me that going to 48v/10a is one thing but perhaps with a specialized 48v/10a third part PS (assuming it isn't too expensive itself) performance might get REALLY compelling.
Sorry but if you're going to do a critical review of a product like these, you absolutely NEED to use the bigger power supply. The advertised power ratings are obviously absurd and useless, but not for the reasons some might suspect. Audiophiles sometimes think watts don't equal watts, and that's false; these little amps merely need to be measured on an amp dyno (as some have done), and then you will know the truth... you'll see the power vs distortion curve and with different test signals (1khz, noise, multi-tone, etc). When you compare ANY two amps using this method, watts are indeed just watts. "high current" amplifiers mean nothing for example, given a safe impedance load for an amplifier, current is always directly proportional to voltage and impedance, period. But with class D and T amps, the input voltage not only directly affects the power output capability of the amp, but can also affect the distortion curve and other details. Typically, higher voltage is better, to an extent (up to the "ideal" point, which is typically the maximum voltage that a given chip is rated at safely using). And as others have said, upgrading the op amps is also something one should do - and the final cost is still going to be ultra "budget", and it will make a noticeable difference. Also you're reviewing a (in this space) very old amp... you need to hear the v3 mono (completely different design) or za3, or aiyima a70 etc., something that's the latest design from one of the top budget companies. With the 10 amp power supply, these amps are good for about/just over 80w @ 1% thd into 8 ohms in stereo. You got even less than that. So I don't think it's a great review when anyone considering these things should be getting the bigger power supply. They ship the weak one by default to make the price more attractive, and people get it out of ignorance, not realizing that you need more power than you think. 80w is just barely enough to be a usable broad-purpose / main listening room / low to moderate sensitivity speaker amplifier. Barely. But it is definitely usable and adequate for most people with most moderately sensitive speakers who want to be able to listen at say 80-85db in a decent sized room, it should be able to do that. I would also not use the amps volume control at all, leave it cranked and adjust your volume with your DAC/pre-amp, that's a free upgrade right there... heck I'd internally bypass the knob. While there are high quality analog volume solutions out there, and higher end amps are likely to have something at least decent, it's always better to have a pure power amp - no volume control - and control volume digitally with a DAC running in 24 or 32 bits, where there will be ZERO information loss due to attenuation, and no analog resistance in the signal path to accomplish it, just a lower signal voltage sent to the amp.
They do. The binding posts aren't smaller than normal. They are standard size but extend into the case somewhat to reduce the protrusion on the rear panel.
The reason why fosi has harsher highs is simple - it is load dependent, and with higher ohm speakers boosts high frequencies(it is documented in review at ASR), and douk probably does not have this problem.
Ron, what led you to the Douk A100, not a well advertised choice? The Fosi V3 is a popular choice, so the negative review is disappointing! Indeed the TI 3255 & the Infineon MA5332MS are the chip champs presently. Probably the greatest Infineon implementation is the SMSL AO300, mentioned below by another commenter. If using solely digital sources the value, features & performance offered is scary good. By the way: Fosi, Douk, Nobsound & Loxjie are all produced in the Aiyima factory. I'm not sure about Topping & SMSL, also excellent brands.
I could tell the difference through my phone. The fosi sounded dry and lifeless compared to the douk. It’s a no brainer. As for me I don’t want any of these cheap little things for hifi. To each their own.
You seemed to think this amp was 260 watts per channel. It’s not. The power supply is 160 watts, so if this amp was 100% efficient it would be 80 watts per channel. More like 60.
Thanks for the review, Mann... where do they/you get these V3 specs and figures from? I have these amplifiers (and some from SMSL - worth checking out). Regarding power output, I'm surprised at you... simple math tells us with a power supply of 48v @ 5 amps it will only give you (assuming a theoretical 93% or so efficiency from a class D amplifier) 223.2 Watts total power or 111.6 Watts per channel in stereo mode into 4 ohms on a good day, double that for the 10amp power supply. If you like me, like to run tests on speakers (A DIY thing) then try feeding the inputs with white noise, you'll be lucky to get 10 Watts out of them before they shut down. However, specs aside, they can sound really good but are very speaker dependant (better with low impedance speaker loads than high ones) and for the money are excellent.
Check out the little Rogersound Labs amp for $115. I’ve compared it to 2 other cheap $80-90 amps and it’s better BY FAR! Shockingly good driving even my old B&W 801’s, which are a difficult load. It even looks nice for the price.
Why the V3 instead of the far better sounding, very recommended and still cheap za3? Is it you just so hate the idea of having to say they actually sound pretty good? They ain't no Galleon, but they sure work nice in my not-so-expensive downstairs system.
Fosi V3 costs almost 1K in my country... Douk almost 2.5K... For the same amount of money I can buy good second hand stuff for example: 2 Marantz SR 4200 or 2 Pioneer VSX 823 or 2 Yamaha RX-V630... I understand it's a "trend", but...
I have a 20+ year old Realistic ( Radio Shack) tuner/ amplifier that works as good new. I am trying to find matching bookshelf speakers ( I know, good luck).
Had some issues with the cheap fosi and aiyima sounding not good after rave reviews from the likes of cheap. Interested in the douk a100 yet I believe it was 50% off a couple or so days ago and now not so that's a pill I'm not willing to try.
By the time you get done with upgraded power supplies, opamp-rolling, etc., you’re better off going with a Yamaha A-S301, or similiar integrated. Better sound and more versatile.
Look at him yearning Desirous His craving, his hunger Constant needs, constant wants Nothing will quell Nothing will slake Insatiable vacuous man Hollow and see through His emptiness has made him frail That dying thing still believes Others drive the nails Incendiary god complex Such gift to flammable man This is what it made of him This is what remains Behold, how he devours Unappeasable and cursed That arid soul, famished and desiccated I am that thirst His gluttony can not be stilled This state can never be reversed Hollow and empty Endlessly
Laws of physics. P(Watts)=VxA 48V x 10A =480W MAX. Plain and simple that is the most power this power supply can deliver no matter what. Some power consumed by preamp and nothing is 100% efficient. So the output stage does not even get that. Rated at 300W x2? That would require a minimum of 600W out of that PS which is far past it's rating! Regardless of what load. I= V/R 48V/2ohm (4 ohm x 2 channels) It would require the PS to deliver 24A, not 10A to maintain the 48V.
They are measuring peak output at sometimes 10% distortion. Yes this is manipulating statistics. But still there is good power there for normal listening levels in a home environment.
@@peterbaugh51 WRONG! Again it violates the laws of physics to claim this PS/ device can output more than 480 MAX with the bigger PS. It will prove impossible to run both channels into 4 ohm loads and get more than 480 MAX both channels. No matter the distortion.
@@glenncurry3041 Capacitors allow for higher peak output for brief moments in time. Some people call them caps. Music requires very brief peaks for power. These considerations must be taken into account when rating the power of an amplifier. But I'm just an Audio Engineer with a Science Degree. It's just my opinion.
@@glenncurry3041 I guess the confusion here is RMS power versus peak power output. In radio transmission it is called PEP or Peak Envelope Power. Music industry professionals know the difference.
@@peterbaugh51 Well aware of Caps, they were in the amp I built in '67. Along with the VTVM (test meter)Tube Tester, CB radio, ... I built. Won't bring up the pirate AM station I built in HS! The FCC almost caught me. Could have cost me my 1st Class FCC license required to run TV stations back then (called General Class now?). The guitar amps I've repaired and built, ... living in Nashville! but your "Audio Engineer with a Science Degree. It's just my opinion." are flat out wrong about what Caps do in the PS. They NEVER INCREASE the voltage/ amperage " allow for higher peak output for brief moments in time". They help MAINTAIN it when the demand is greatest! The Caps can only charge up to the voltage provided to them. And then keep that charge when demand is greatest and in-between the incoming sinewave peaks. And that's laws of physics not personal opinion.
To me, the Aiyima sounds the best of these budget amps, like the 07 Max. But let's be honest. These amps are not for critical listening. They are desktop amps that are great for bookshelf speakers in the near field. If that is what you are buying them for, then you will not be disappointed. When measured with the 48v/5a PSU in stereo, you can expect around 85WPC (ish) stereo RMS with low distortion numbers. Still, it's not bad for $150 - $180. Great for a desk 😉
On my elac ub5’s or my magnepans nothing is bright or out place, using TH-cam audio is laughable. Moving my speakers a few inches left or right creates more of a difference in sound than the sound of the Fosi v3. & suddenly after audioscience mentioned the the frequency response changes in the fosi, every one has a golden ear.😂😅
Yeah they are load dependent ... up about 1db at 20khz on 8 ohms, down about 1.5db at 20khz on 4 ohms ... Know anybody who could actually hear that? Another audiophile tempest in a teapot.
@@jondonnelly3 yep, I'm not knowledgeable enough to build a crossover from scratch to make a speaker like that work. I'm sure he's learning a ton front this process. If that speaker has a rear firing LGK 2.0 woofer then that thing could be pretty sweet.
👉 Fosi V3: amzn.to/4eaH5MZ
👉 Douk A100: amzn.to/3ZyUD05
00:00 - Start
03:37 - Compare Contrast
06:19 - V3 Impressions
10:04 - A100 Impressions
13:39 - Sound Clip Comparisons
15:42 - Final Thoughts
**Disclaimer** The links in this post are Amazon affiliate links. If you make a purchase through them, I may earn a small commission-at no extra cost to you! These commissions help me invest in better equipment and improve the quality of my reviews and content. Thank you for your support!
Latest PC doesn't have optical or rca
HDMI or 3.5mm headphone 🎧 cable
Newer televisions 📺 eliminate optical
I am old! My long perspective is that people who enjoy music have never had it better. Back in the day, I owned a Marantz 2275 Receiver which weighed almost 40lbs. Cost around 600 bucks back then. The sound I get from my tiny Class D amp now sounds just as good to my never was audiophile ears! Appreciate what you have!
True but that Marantz looked so cool.
@@anthonycruciani939 ! I never cared about looks, I went for the best sound. Bling is the thing in this superficial culture of today!
But higher end gear these days has gone to silly prices
@@Coneman3 ! The Marantz 2275 was listed at $600 dollars when I bought it. With inflation it would cost me $2,300 today.
@@Coneman3 Yep especially Marantz.
Thank you Ron. This truly fair examination of the pros and shortcomings of these budget amps are a fantastic service to our community.
Thanks for an honest review. If I may, I'd like to add that upgrading the op amps can make a substantial difference. The stock NE5532 IC-based op amps (typically used as the stock versions in most Chi-Fi class D amps) tend to be somewhat bright and thin sounding overall (depending on amp of course). Changing them out for the much heralded Sparkos Labs discrete SS3602 op amps (and they are much more expensive), this V3 really opens up and brings it a step closer to what many audiophiles would enjoy. With the Douk (yes, I have both of these amps), the op amp sockets are spaced so close together that using wider discrete op amps such as the Sparkos Labs versions, won't fit (bummer). Thus, in the Douk A100, you are left with having to use the smaller IC-based op amps. Certain Burson discrete versions may fit (I didn't have any of them on hand). I've found that with all of the Fosi class D amps, changing out the op amps can make anywhere from a noticeable difference - to a world of difference. Of course, what you use as ancillary equipment helps also. OK - I'm done.
This is great feedback. Thank you.
I've yet to see a single measurement that showed these amps were improved by swapping op amps or power cords. Advocates never do blind tests so proceed with caution.
If you're going to spend over $100 on op-amps then might as well buy a better amp.
Do you also find the Douk A100 (stock) to be the better sounding amp as Ron has? I own the V3 and think it is a great amp but am curious if the stock A100 even sounds even better(both stock). Thanks.
@@10sassafras I've often found it interesting in my almost 60 years of enjoying fine equipment, the approaches different folks take when evaluating/listening to fine audio gear. There are those on the "techno-weenie" side of the house who swear only by what they can measure. On the other hand, there are those (and there are many included here) who use their ears to determine what sounds good. Many aspects of audio can be labeled as being intangible - that is, "not being measureable," yet the sound qualities can be of a high order. Your ears - especially if you are a musician or listen to quite a bit of live music - will set you in the right direction. In the end, there are a variety of outstanding audio components that sound absolutely wonderful (accurate), but may not measure very well - now go figure?
I bought a little Aiyima T9 and a set of KEF bookshelf speakers. For the price, I am really happy with them.
After listening to the demos, I agree 100% with your impressions.
The first track is unbearable for me with Fosi V3.
Can't wait for that Caladan full review!
Well... Better late than never. I appreciate this video. Last year I was spending too much time on Hi-Fi forums. The hype around these cheap Fosi amps is out of this world. I am so glad that I didn't buy one and chose to purchase a second hand Creek 4240 amplifier for 130€ instead. The Creek sounds lovely. It's one of those amps which directly competes with the NAD 3020 (which is impossible to find now). Unfortunately, these old amps need to be serviced sooner or later. And it cost me another 150€. And yet... At the back of my head I always hear a voice from the internet saying "You should have bought the Fosi it measures better". Anyways, it's a huge ramble. I would love to see you compare a vintage $200 AB amp with a Fosi V3.
Considering the price and size -- they sound very very good.
And this is the key thing - amps like this are making near or actual hi-fi quality available to people who have previously only been exposed to mediocre Bluetooth speakers, boomy soundbars or those shockingly bad, yet still expensive mini systems (or, going back a bit further, mainstream stack systems in the 80s and 90s).
I'd love a mid to high end system, but it's a huge investment in time, money and space, so a pair of ZA3s, a decent record player an equally decent but not high end streamer and some nice speakers and headphones has brought me back to enjoying music rather than having it as background noise for the first time in decades.
@@erratic100nothing hifi about any of these amps… fact
@@Harrisongrey19 Now don't be like that. I agree that they are overhyping them. I have the first V3 and mono and played around with op amps out of curiosity and I could use it for my desktop system. Do they compete with better gear. No... Are they a decent entry start if people don't op amp roll yeah. Put a Wiim pro as a pre. Get some decent low end speakers and this is a good start on the music journey
@@wegardfjeld3789 I can agree with that…but people calling it hifi are dead wrong. Especially the ones saying it bests systems 10x it’s price. There the same people Turing theirs noises up at people who can afford a better system. It works both ways. Buy these fosi fanboys are out of control.
Ron, Fosi V3 is ancient by now. It doesn't have PFFB so its treble response will change depending on speaker impedance curve. You should check out the new Fosi V3 Monoblocks (PFFB) and Aiyima A70 or (preorder) A70 Monoblocks (both PFFB) with good discrete op-amps.
Yes, or the ZA3. The newer crop are indeed objectively superior and a significant step up, and are the standard to be judged in the ultra budget category. Also the higher output power supply is REQUIRED, any review not using it is useless. Do not buy one of these amps without the 10a power supply, period. Ron should really give them a chance - get the real design power supply (what it's MEANT to run with), and some better op amps, and hear the latest designs.
These newer designs are just generally superior, but the subjective increase in quality is not primarily due to pffb... the load dependence of certain non-compensated class D designs is almost irrelevant, you're talking maybe +/- 1 db at 20khz, that's not the issue anyone is going to have with a listening test.
What’s PFFB?
@@greenbeginner3353 Post filter feedback technique used to provide a consistent frequency response with different speaker impedances.
@@Artcore103 yep. I have a pair of ZA3's set up as mono's and the performance at this price is just unreasonably gratifying
PFFB have disadvantages and make the sound a bit less natural. Be aware of that. ZA3 is superior in some cases.
I've been using the Dayton Audio HTA200 and a pair of Sony SSCS5 speakers for my bedroom. Granted, it certainly is not as small as the microamps that you reviewed, but it certainly sounds good, the build quality is there, not to mention that the tubes make a nice cozy glowing night light.
I have also been using the HTA200 paired with PSB Stratos speakers (a larger than normal bookshelf speaker, to give you an idea of scale). I bought the HTA200 because the PSB Stratos are 4 ohm, and none of my vintage receivers play down to 4 ohm. It his a powerhouse of an amp, and if you didn't know better, you would swear it was driving tower speakers. I have had a few friends (guys with thousands of dollars in their systems because, as you know, there's always a pissing match between dudes), and they are all very impressed with, and a bit jealous of, the sound it delivers. I am actually getting ready to buy the smaller HTA100 for our family room so that I can ditch our crappy sound bar and just enjoy 2-channel when watching movies. The HTA200 is impressive... I wish NRD would do a review of it.
I have mentioned this here before. If you want to go all out, my main Amplifier is the Rogue Audio Sphinx V3 Magnum Edition. I have it paired with Klipsch Heresy IV speakers. It's a great setup.@matthewpeterson3329
I have a Nobsound AV-525 which seems similar. Got it in March and have really enjoyed it except recently it started dropping a channel after a half hour or so of listening. The one year warranty doesn’t seem to cover much so I dropped it off with a repair service- fingers crossed.
Ron,
Great honest review as always. Thanks for what you do.
I have 2 v3s. I use one for each channel. That along with the the sparkos opamps made them much better at detail, separation, sound stage, and really did wonders for that top end. I did it as a fun little experiment. I am hoping to replace them soon with a set of Burson time keepers.
If you play around with the sparkos, in your v3, I would love to hear your comparisons to the Burson.
Thanks
I use these for travel systems and in my bedroom. These don't really fall in the same crowd with fancy speakers. Any speaker with a rise in the top end is a no go for me, and many modern speakers have this. I want an in room response that tapers slightly downward. Honestly, with decent full range speakers, these amps sound from good to better. Speakers that are fussy with amp type are another no go. A stable design will inflict it's own characteristic over any reasonable neutral amp.
For those quirky speakers, one better choose one of the Fosi amps with tone controls, like the Fosi BT30D Pro. What these amps are is pretty low noise. I hear no audible hiss from the speakers with amps based on this chipset.
Great review. Can’t wait to see the video on the new GR Research speakers in the background.
THIS x many hundreds… please and thank you! I’m ready to see what you and the GR team have come up with Ron, and I’m ready to buy, just waiting for the release video and HOPEFULLY you had input into their name because they already look like a dead sexy design) pretty exciting stuff coming!
@@GoggleAX Agree, I too am ready to buy that speaker.
Does this new speaker have the rear tweeter like the 2.4?
@@siriosstar4789Bizarre comment. It is untrue that crossovers are an extra expense and that they have to be installed by GR Research. I’m puzzled as to how/why you fabricated such a fantasy.
Those new GR Research speakers are looking might lovely floating around the background, can't wait for the announcement on them
I use the Fosi for desktop NF system, and it's great for that use. Not replacing my Anthem STR integrated in my main system with the Fosi any time soon however...
I have really enjoyed the Aiyima brand. My first Class D was the Lepy. They sounded great but low build quality. The small size of these amps is wonderful. They work well with Alexa Dots in garage and basement but with a decent DAC off a computer very fulfilling sound. Aging laptops make for a nice streaming device. Like someone said below music lovers have never had it so good!
Douk Audio is good stuff, but I got to have tubes somewhere. Douk sells components to other companies in partnership. What those companies do with the components is their business. So you get some cheaper brands with similar components that may not sound as good as Douk Audio. And that's fine, it's a free market. I use the Douk Audio ST-01 Pro with upgraded tubes. The Chinese 6K4 tubes were distorted so I replaced them with GE JAN 5654W New Old Stock USA tubes. That combination is Hi-Fi with enough power to drive my speakers down to 30 HZ. The sound is very similar to my HH Scott LK-72 tube amp (though that tube amp can play much louder than the Douk). That Scott is Hi-Fi enough for me. And I am a musician. Great video, thanks for posting.
The JAN tubes command about twice the price as the consumer NOS tubes. They don't build tubes like they used to; current production is less robust and often doesn't meet the published specs. Driver and rectifier tubes provide the most bang for the buck.
@@1mctous The pair of JAN tubes I bought were only $17, tested and matched. Well worth the price for their great sound. Army surplus used in radio gear.
Ron: A number of years ago you had a video build of a Hypex amp. I liked it so much, I went out and buitl one and still find it sounds quite good. What is your current opinion of that amp and how it compares to these cheap ones?
That hypex amp is substantially better than any of these I’ve heard so far.
Great evaluation of these two popular amps. Great to have family support for your endeavors. Continued success to you.
Ahhh Ronnie the end was touching!!! I drive past T.I. in North Dallas a whole lot I'm experimenting with the new dual chip boards a TPA3255 dedicated to each channel Also have Gan-Fet evaluation kits for Amplifier builders that can go to a true 750wpc shooting for that boutique product line probably with a Aluminum & Wood design ...
After I get perfect the Sound in my Lab!!
Interested in Op-amp swapping. Can't wait for that review.
Will you be testing the V3 Monos? Interesting to see if it changes the sound or not.
It's a minor upgrade. Stil not good vs quality stuff...
@@wegardfjeld3789 Really? Then how do you explain that a pair of Fosi V3 Mono successfully - i.e. they sound better in all regards - replaced an Anthem P2 Statement? The speakers are B&W 802 D4 ...
@@matto.4558 There are 3 options to your reply. Either something is wrong with the speakers so everything sounds the same. Something wrong with the anthems or something is wrong with your ears... I have the previous V3 and the mono, replaced the op amps with Burson and sparkos different models. I've swapped the PSU and cables because they are of such sh quality it is a 100% source of interference..
Here is the sad fact. The V3 crumbles at low db, they are more like a 25-35w in actual performance. They lack in sound staging, placement, low end and mid detail.
If you enjoy your V3's that much good for you, but for 99% of the people that have functioning gear and ears they are not even beating low end integrated from Yamaha, Rotel, Cambridge ++.
@@wegardfjeld3789 Sorry, but you're completely wrong.
The described case is one out of five.
We are five people who ditched Anthem power amps (P2s or A2s; their bias voltages were tuned and they were checked periodically by an engineer who worked at the R&D department of the manufacturer) for Fosi V3 MONOs, and we have different speakers: the said B&W 802 D4, Tannoy Profile 637, two different models of Paradigm (with improved crossovers), three pairs custom made by an extremely qualified sound engineer (one of, if not the best in the country).
Two of us are from a family of musicians (soloists and classical music teachers).
Two of us worked as consultants in shops selling hi-fi & high end equipment, including Yamaha and Cambridge Audio.
All of us have an extensive experience (decades) of listening to hi-fi and high end gear.
So, can you realistically consider that all the power amps and speakers, and all of our ears can have issues? The problem has to be on your side, not ours.
Btw, Yamaha, Rotel and Cambridge Audio can be considered, at best, a little above mediocre. Even their flagships.
@@matto.4558 I forgot a couple possibilities as a pour source or bad pre.
To me, the Fosi has what my ear perceives as an 80 Hz bulge or maybe a narrow band spike. The difference I heard in the first clip was the tambourine in the background was audible with the Douk and completely missing in the Fosi. It was a very stark difference on my system. Interesting that the apparent differences are in what I would consider micro bands, which makes me wonder if there's a harmonic based difference, especially with the Fosi.
The Fosis have some sort or weird eq curve. I went back to my Marantz 2015. I was hoping to save some room on the desk but it was not to be..
Ron, appreciate the awesome review. One suggestion, maybe include a traditional AB amp in the sound clips as a point of comparison as many of your viewers are more familiar with AB amp sound.
I have the Fosi and a Yamaha A-S301 AB integrated. The Yamaha is more musically involving in every way.
Do you notice the sound of the V3 degrading as it warms up? I have one and it gets pretty warm. I noticed plenty of harshness from it before doing some EQ to tone down some of the tweeter’s range. I also noticed that using the 32v power supply allows the V3 to run WAY cooler, basically cold. When I use the 48V it gets warm even without music playing.
At 32V the V3 will be more reliable & have longer life.
I am running a pair of Aiyima A07 in mono mode on 48v and they are hot to touch, sometimes with no music. They appear to be great driving Mag lrs plus. Thinking to try Purifi.
@@floof3942 That seems pretty good, just running one speaker per unit not to mention the improvement to low impedance driving since the bridge on these 3255 is actually parallel. So basically you don’t get more voltage but you get more power through extra current. Two units will offer extra heat dissipation. I bet it would be nice to add some slow moving fan cooling.
Everyone's mileage varies and the speakers could be the make or break on this. Maybe I got lucky and found a good match for the V3 right away. My "listening room" is unfortunately my 9'x10' bedroom, like literally where I sleep. I do have some treatment in the way of absorbers and diffusers though. I use a tiny 8"x8" PC running Tidal to a Zen DAC V2 to the Fosi V3. I installed the sparkos op amps in the V3 from day one. The Fosi V3 to a diy speaker kit by Soundblab called The Dynamites. I left my thoughts on the Dynamites youtube page. My experience has been amazing honestly. I've been impressed with sound and performance of the V3 in my setup. Next I want to monoblock with Fosi V3 Mono (sparkos and a muse in each) and hope mine don't release the magic smoke like yours did.
Even though we have different experiences on this one, thanks for the no nonsense review!
Douk sounds fuller with more resonance and decay after the note.
I put some Burson v7 classics in the v3 monos and was really impressed. I wasn’t loving the stock tuning but now I’m really into them.
I did the same because I enjoy the experiment. After buying the burson v7 the price is now competing vs better gear that is better though. Not worth sadly
You raised the question but never answered it: Are mini class D amplifiers truly “high end” or not? If yes, why spend hundreds or thousands more for the other amps you’ve reviewed or own? That’s the question, isn’t it?
Greetings, these amplifiers are designed for a specific purpose within their cost. Do not expect their performance to be anything else, they are very good equipment that democratizes listening to good sound at a more than reasonable cost.
Dirt is expensive, out of control expensive the last 5-6 years. Makes sense the amps are cheaper than dirt!
Especially the dirt I use
So is wood.
You talking about audiophile dirt? They can sell anything to you with an expensive price tag 🤣
Ya these chifi class d
Amps are cheap. They distort quick at high volume and have noise in them. And they don’t have good depth of field with placement and a relatively narrow sound stage.
You get what you pay for deposit all the Yahoo fan boys that get triggered by reality and will tell you they are as good or better than higher quality products…
RON, I'm glad you got a little love from your sweetheart ❤ . Also glad you giving a little love to these inexpensive amplifiers. You could start a new channel Cheap New Record Dude.
😂 no thanks. One of “them cheap-tubers” is already pul-lenty!!! 😎😇🤣
Nice comparison. I think the reason why the A100 performs better is because it has the post-filter feedback technology (PFFB) that the Fosi V3 lacks. The Aiyima A0 is closer to the Douk Audio though it has less features for connecting a subwoofer.
The Williston Audio TH-cam channel with his Amplifier Dyno shows consistently that the power ratings are exaggerated with these chip amps
But the power is still crazy high just not as rated
If I can get 60 watts per channel clean power I'm good.
@@peterbaugh51I am good with 3 to 8 watts per channel
Getting a couple 3 watt monoblocks LOL
They will play higher than I want or need
I just have to be careful with speaker choices
At least we can all get what we want
@@middleearthltd Yes some speakers do require more power to sound really good and I don't mean just playing loud. I don't play very loud but boy I do like that deep bass and good clear mid-range and crystal clear highs. 85 DB is about as loud as I would ever play it and not for very long. That's just too loud for me. At about 74 DB my couch is shaking. But I need some good clean power per channel to make that happen with smaller speakers. And 3 Watts really is no joke when you're talking about efficient speakers. That's plenty loud enough!
@@peterbaugh51 I have learned to enjoy quiet listening and I am right there with you
I abused my hearing….concerts, firearms, gas/diesel powered things, power tools….
Now that I am old I decided to to stop insulting my hearing, wear hearing protection and ingest food/supplements that can help to maintain hearing
You can’t heal your hearing but you can maintain it and I would encourage anyone to at least try and learn to listen and enjoy lower sound levels in music listening
You might find you enjoy it and I still listen to Black/Doom/Death Metal at classical music levels and have greater enjoyment of all of it
@@middleearthltd Wise words my friend, I am doing the same. I played professionally in a rock band. I have heard plenty of loud music. More than enough for a lifetime.
Take a look at the Apos Gremlin, I just got mine yesterday and it's a beast! $120 for a fully balanced class A vacuum tube amp that sounds wonderful
I have an Aiyima A07, a small Keces E40 and a Hegel h160. The 2 class AB amps make my Focal 807Ws sound very good but the A07 really steps down the SQ by a significant amount. All three drive my budget Triangle Zetas really well with differences in the performance by a degree with the Hegel adding a bit of liveliness but the differences are far less with amp upscaling. The Triangles seem to play with anything.
Never tried the A07 on my Dalis but the Dalis show the greatest differences between the Keces and Hegel. The Hegel is livelier with a bit more weight/attack on piano, voice, while the Keces is smooth, a bit warmer with less glare or sharpness. The differences are noticeable but both presentations are enjoyable and closer than I would have thought while being a bit different that can fit better depending on music or mood. Also, different dacs were used which further the differences. The Keces was hooked to a Topping D70s which smooths, rounds a bit while I used the internal dac of the hegel which is a bit more analytical so it could be that too. I find the performance so good with the Keces I call it my little hegel at about a quarter the power output.
The Aiyima A07 is typically noted as a good class D performer in its range and even higher. But it doesn't compare to the two class AB amps I have albeit at multiples of dollars more.
I think with certain speakers, although there's no formula in choosing them, that even a cheap little class d can give pretty good performance that could satisfy many people but the few who live by absolute performance. It is also a means to get people into a 2 channel setup who have lived by IEMs and phones with streamed music on the go. It doesn't add much bulk to a living room/bedroom and there's always powered speakers as well, many of which employ class D at a still affordable price.
My preference is 2 channel passive speakers which for me works and I can swap gear in and out. If the amp section in a speaker goes, your kind of stuck.
I have no experience with higher end class D like Purifi and such but its likely that's the future of midfi/hifi as the performance as touted by those that have been in this hobby a long time and that have experience with lots of gear are stating its a legitimate contender for SQ...and in a smaller and lighter package to boot which for me is a big plus.
Still, I just picked up a class AB amp in the VA CA-1 which I will receive today to see if this amp lives up to the hype. I am downsizing in equipment. Still with class AB but looking at lighter options than big amps, integrated, etc. Also gearing my listening towards lower power but high performance.
I can see where someone needs high watts if not high current capability if they listen at louder levels but I listen at lower to moderate SPLs at my age and find smaller amps can do the trick without chancing a hernia moving it around when I swap in and out gear. If a speaker is known to require alot of power to move them towards their best performance I typically avoid that speaker. Many times these kinds of speakers are designed to give more bass punch and definition but as long as the lower mids on higher are good, a small sub can fill in the rest. And I can do without a sub but sometimes the fillin adds to a performance. Don't need to be knocked down by bass but some like it.
I have a use for the A07 and that is for music on the go if and when I travel. Easy enough to put together a small system for a camp, hotel stay or whatever mobile use. For home use, it just seems to sit in the corner right for now.
Lots of choices for any budget.
Nice video NRD 🎉💯👍⭐😎💥. A friend of mine is in need of a budget amp just to power two long throw 8-inch subs. Sounds and looks like the A100 will fit the bill. Really like the fact your Bride is in the "wheel house" for your audio passion!! May this pairing never end!! Take care and all the best for you and yours! Look forward to coming videos!
Love the love at the end of the video. Also love your review, as always ✌🏼
Thanks so much!
I recently had occasion to set up a second audio system as some upgrades to my initial system allowed me to shift over to a main area of my office. I wanted to keep a second system by my computer work area but I didn't want to invest in another $1k amp, which I just had for the main system (NAD C268). And also, I wanted to experiment with mono blocks and a dual subwoofer set up. I decided to try the 'cheap' phenomenon out and grabbed two Fosi ZA3's to power a pair of KEF Q350's. Look, I know may of us audiphiles love love love to hide behind the elite shielf of price and brand - people calling $1k gear mid-fi is hysterical to me. But anyway - this setup sounds really good. No, of course it isn't competing with a multi-thousand dollar Hegel amp, etc. but the sound quality one gets on its own terms is better than decent. Much better than decent. Then you consider price and it's a no-brainer for anyone who is really price sensitive or, like me is setting up a second system, or is new and is looking for a first system with a "fancy" setup like mono blocks. I'd recommend these without hesitation.
Have a Fosi (not the model you have reviewed) connected to laptop driving a spare set of speakers (some old B&Ws I didn't want to get rid of as don't like to junk working kit). A cheap amp giving better sound than I would get with PC speakers of a similar price to the amp (admittedly the good speakers doing a lot of heavy lifting).
Had no issue doing bare wire connections on the Fosi
Typical low distortion power on 48 volts is 100w/ch on 8 ohms, 190w/ch on 4.
The 300 per spec is TI's "absolute maximum" rating. The chip will sustain that level of power and distortion for about 3 seconds before going into protection and shutting down.
From TPA3255 Datasheet:
Total Output Power at 1%THD+N
- 260-W Stereo into 4 Ω in BTL Configuration
- 150-W Stereo into 8 Ω in BTL Configuration
- 480-W Mono into 2 Ω in PBTL Configuration
So you can safely call this a 150W/ch amplifier into 8 Ohms with a 50V supply of sufficient current capability (~10A) and a reasonable heat sink. It is efficient enough so that heroic cooling is not required.
@@jeffberwick
At the end user level working with OTS amplifiers or boards you will find that most have thermal issues. That is they will overheat and go into protection after just a few minutes of being overdriven.
Therefore I do not suggest going over about 36 to 40 volts with any OTS implementation. The problem is, of course, getting enough cooling in such tiny cases or smallish board areas. At 36 volts you can reasonably expect 75, 150 and 220 watts RMS at THD way less than 1% on 8, 4 and 2 ohms respectively.
I'm currently working with modified Aiyima A07 amplifiers, with 36 volt 6 amp supplies on a pair of tower speakers that come in at about 6 ohms and 85db sensitivity. This arrangement will get loud enough that I can't stay in the room with it (>90 dba) and will run all day at more normal listening levels (75 to 80dba) without becoming more than warm to touch.
At the design level the TPA3255 chip includes a full suite of protections for DC offsets, over voltage, under voltage, over current and temperature. Error signals include Clip/Otw (THD >0.1%, temp >125c) and Fault (voltage, current, offset, overheat). It also includes a resistor programmable current limit that defaults to 17 amps. I would strongly recommend that all of these features should be implemented for any professional application to minimize the risk of in-use failures. Despite it's small size this is a very robust chip.
Here, as with the consumer grade implementations cooling is an issue. It takes a fairly robust heat sink and possibly a fan to keep it cool when driven to it's limits.
Yes, I agree that most implementations have thermal issues. The TPA3255 needs an excellent thermal interface (high quality grease, like arctic ceramique, clean planar mounting on an adequate heatsink) to perform at its maximum potential. I have the actual TI eval board and run it at 50V with no issues. I like the headroom at 50V to stay out of clipping at musical peaks.
@@jeffberwick
A couple of volts down to 48 to match up with readily available power bricks and common capacitor ratings is not going to harm your headroom any. In fact even jumping down to 36 volts only costs you about 2db of headroom. (Keep in mind that class D, running on tightly regulated supplies doesn't have the same headroom burst mechanism as class AB)
I've kludge wired the Clip/OTW and Fault pins to leds in my A07s and at comfortable levels with 36 volts the lamps don't even flicker, so headroom isn't really an issue for me. It would likely become an issue only if I was bent upon making my ears bleed.
Indeed the thermal solution is crucial for anything but consumer grade implementations. The chip is tiny, has no bonded heat spreader and is sadly very easy to crush without the right spacers under the heat sink, so good solutions are a bit harder to implement.
As I keep reminding people, there is a reason why the chi-fi amps come with 32 volt supplies... It's enough power for most people but wont melt the chip.
I did change the OP amp on Two ZA3 mono and I’m happy to say they are as good ‘sounding’ as 10 times the price diy mono amp I own .. they just don’t have enough amperage to drive power hungry tower speaker BUT they do drive my Maggie’s pretty well.
What op amps did you use for your swap?
Using the word Dirt, says it all. You can't run away from your dominant thought.
Your videos are both fun and informative. I have a couple of bedroom systems using little class 'D' amps. One is using a Fosi V3 connected to a pair of Elac UB52 speakers with Tara Labs biwire cables. I am feeding the V3 from Wiim pro plus via Transparent R/C interconnects.
With this set-up I do not have the forward presentation you described. Overall sound is quite good and well balanced much of this I attribute to my fairly expensive cables. These little amps are known to have treble interactions with their load. I hear that a new Fosi amp will have circuits to correct this situation?
This is good to hear and maybe it’s just a bad pairing with the caladan speaker and that’s that. Good question about it being addressed but unfortunately I don’t know the answer.
PFFB
What are those speakers?
That proto speaker resembles GR-Research drivers. I guess I need to wait a while before building my next speakers. Those look interesting.
Danny has a new line using planar magnetic tweeters instead of the Peerless soft domes in the Encore series. He found one that plays down to 1 KHz, making driver integration easier.
@@1mctous yes I seen that one. I was hoping for a LGK 2.1 with the 6.5 woofer. But now that I look more at the video. The drivers look like GR-Research but the cabinets they are in don't look GR-Research. I am looking to build the LGK 2.1 but the white driver is driving me crazy.
@@kevindillinger3699
TBH, IME there are much better DIY speaker kits available for the money than the LGK 2.1. 🤷♂
I bought a Fozi v3 with the bigger power brick to play through Klipsch Cornwalls. I wanted to see what the hype was about. After 30 hours of listening....... and for the money it's worth the $100, BUT don't expect more. In other words don't expect it to image or soundstage as good as a Yamaha AS301. Get the Yamaha AS301 for $350 and you'll be MUCH happier!!! Now if you need a cheap meh/good sounding amp for background music in the warehouse to play over the forklifts, Fozi v3 is your little helper and it's not terrible for the right application. HiFi isn't it's game, even though all of the advertizing states otherwise. Cheap Audioman went on and on and on about the Fozi v3 and that's why I bought it. Boy was he wrong! I'd say he was making $$$$ through his affiliation. I was so let down after he gushed over it for multiple videos. It's a BIG NO for Hifi and a big yes for the garage.... while you weld a race car roll cage.
Cheap audio Man is an online salesman, not an audio reviewer, although he tries to pass himself off as one.
To him everything sounds "great" so buy it with my affiliate link
@@crazyprayingmantis5596totally agree.
@@jondonnelly3
All the TH-cam salesman love to make claims yet never back them up with evidence.
It's so easy to say this is better that that when you never have to actually demonstrate that you can hear a difference, all you have to do is say you can.
They really don't like it when someone like me calls them out and asks them to show us them passing a double blind listening test
@@crazyprayingmantis5596 You are correct. Even though I thought his gushing had merit, I lost focus. Well, I don't hate him at all and I'm sure is a great guy, but he needs to tone it down on bad products. Interesting guy and no hard feelings. All the best to him.
The douk sounds better to me. But both amps only are ok for background music in a kitchen or as Amp for the Television, the powersupply with 32V is strong enough for such szenarios. Use a 48V/10A makes no sense to me, cause the Amps gets to hot to manage the output 300W per Channel is more a PMPO Spec. A bit more than 100W per channel looks realistic to me.
Would love to see more, Ron!
It isn't the number of watts in the amp, but at what point the watts get clipped. If the actual maximum of potential watts the amp has is 2000 watts when unclipped and it is clipped at 200, that is all cool clear sound.
"A couple Benjamins?" Less than one was my A07. Honestly, I don't use it but instead use my BasX A2 for my Danish MTMs (100 hz hi-pass) and bi-amp my quad 15" woofers with V3 mono blocks (100 hz low pass). Well, I guess is isn't "bi-amping" with 5 amps.
i use the aiyima t9 pro with Dali spektor 1 speakers and an audio cromecast using the optical input. In a small office for the money the sound in amazing
Check out the Vista Audio Spark. Great little Amp. Good sound stage with a very smooth sound.
I'll check it out!
I am running a V3 for the 4" full range speakers in my zero baffle active speaker set up. I must say, your sample did sound harsh compared to my set up. The previous speakers I was using did in fact sound harsher and more fatiguing as well. So if well matched the V3 can sound quite nice. Really want to hear some samples of op amp rolling! Great vid.
Enjoy your music, but don't be fooled. The V3 holds your system back
@@wegardfjeld3789 I am extremely happy with the V3, can you more specific as to how they hold back a system?
@@jazzboy Easily. Put them on low end dac and speakers you might not notice. Put them on higher quality items you will notice the lack in the bottom end, mid range is sterile and the highs are distorting bright. Then you put in something better to amplify and now you will feel and hear the music. It can be something as simple as a guitar string or a bass drum.
I should add I have the old V3 and the mono's and I have op amped rolled. I bought them to play around with and for the nearfield desktop system. They can't compete vs my mother's old Cambridge Audio Azur a640 and that says too much.
@@wegardfjeld3789 results will very for sure. Current state of affairs. th-cam.com/video/UAVEk8Gt3L4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=bAs0_WhTUi8hrcJi
1. Banana plugs 2. Great sound samples but they would have been so much better randomised and unlabelled with a key at the end. Thanks!
Love your reviews, even when I can’t afford 99% of the stuff you review. Now that you have these amps, why don’t you also review the WiiM Ultra?
Great review. Thanks for sharing.
Fascinated to hear you tried the Caladans! Thing is, I have a pair of open baffles which I use with my 300W class D stereo power amp, but it has a gain control which I can adjust down so as to retain a decent amount of play in my preamp's volume control. I find this necessary because my OBs are extremely sensitive (they can be driven by a 2W tube amp).
So my question is: with this amount of power, how does volume control (without gain control) manage with sensitive OB's? Don't you find you have to be very careful and only have a restricted amount of rotation in the volume knob?
I have a V3 in my office and the only complaint that I have with it is that it is a little to hot on top. Thank God I have a Schiit Loki in the chain and I can calm down the top to my liking.
I've heard, as a starter amp, the V3 is supposedly good for small rooms & near-field use, like PC speakers. Especially when you upgrade the op amps to something like Sparkos SS3602. Personally, I have a large room so have my eye on a pair of Outlaw Audio 2220 monoblocks in an upgrade path from powered to external power & passive speakers, but never having heard of the A100 I'm kinda curious for a follow-up regarding the comparison between these two after rolling op amps. There's also starter monoblocks from Chi-Fi brands like Fosi, Douk and Aiyima.
Ron, love to hear your thoughts on the A100 after both an op-amp upgrade AND, PS upgrades. Something tells me that going to 48v/10a is one thing but perhaps with a specialized 48v/10a third part PS (assuming it isn't too expensive itself) performance might get REALLY compelling.
Sorry but if you're going to do a critical review of a product like these, you absolutely NEED to use the bigger power supply. The advertised power ratings are obviously absurd and useless, but not for the reasons some might suspect. Audiophiles sometimes think watts don't equal watts, and that's false; these little amps merely need to be measured on an amp dyno (as some have done), and then you will know the truth... you'll see the power vs distortion curve and with different test signals (1khz, noise, multi-tone, etc). When you compare ANY two amps using this method, watts are indeed just watts. "high current" amplifiers mean nothing for example, given a safe impedance load for an amplifier, current is always directly proportional to voltage and impedance, period.
But with class D and T amps, the input voltage not only directly affects the power output capability of the amp, but can also affect the distortion curve and other details. Typically, higher voltage is better, to an extent (up to the "ideal" point, which is typically the maximum voltage that a given chip is rated at safely using). And as others have said, upgrading the op amps is also something one should do - and the final cost is still going to be ultra "budget", and it will make a noticeable difference. Also you're reviewing a (in this space) very old amp... you need to hear the v3 mono (completely different design) or za3, or aiyima a70 etc., something that's the latest design from one of the top budget companies.
With the 10 amp power supply, these amps are good for about/just over 80w @ 1% thd into 8 ohms in stereo. You got even less than that. So I don't think it's a great review when anyone considering these things should be getting the bigger power supply. They ship the weak one by default to make the price more attractive, and people get it out of ignorance, not realizing that you need more power than you think. 80w is just barely enough to be a usable broad-purpose / main listening room / low to moderate sensitivity speaker amplifier. Barely. But it is definitely usable and adequate for most people with most moderately sensitive speakers who want to be able to listen at say 80-85db in a decent sized room, it should be able to do that. I would also not use the amps volume control at all, leave it cranked and adjust your volume with your DAC/pre-amp, that's a free upgrade right there... heck I'd internally bypass the knob. While there are high quality analog volume solutions out there, and higher end amps are likely to have something at least decent, it's always better to have a pure power amp - no volume control - and control volume digitally with a DAC running in 24 or 32 bits, where there will be ZERO information loss due to attenuation, and no analog resistance in the signal path to accomplish it, just a lower signal voltage sent to the amp.
Sorry but they didn’t send me the bigger power supply.
I am interested in your prototype speaker with the 3 inch full range drivers.....do you any info on those?
They look like they would take banana plugs perfectly well?
They do. The binding posts aren't smaller than normal. They are standard size but extend into the case somewhat to reduce the protrusion on the rear panel.
The reason why fosi has harsher highs is simple - it is load dependent, and with higher ohm speakers boosts high frequencies(it is documented in review at ASR), and douk probably does not have this problem.
Caladans are low impedance.
Thanks for the review. But I am not sure about the SQ of the clips, maybe the speakers or the recording.
Ron, what led you to the Douk A100, not a well advertised choice? The Fosi V3 is a popular choice, so the negative review is disappointing! Indeed the TI 3255 & the Infineon MA5332MS are the chip champs presently. Probably the greatest Infineon implementation is the SMSL AO300, mentioned below by another commenter. If using solely digital sources the value, features & performance offered is scary good. By the way: Fosi, Douk, Nobsound & Loxjie are all produced in the Aiyima factory. I'm not sure about Topping & SMSL, also excellent brands.
I could tell the difference through my phone. The fosi sounded dry and lifeless compared to the douk. It’s a no brainer. As for me I don’t want any of these cheap little things for hifi. To each their own.
I'd like to know more about that prototype speaker behind you... presumably from GR Research!
You seemed to think this amp was 260 watts per channel. It’s not. The power supply is 160 watts, so if this amp was 100% efficient it would be 80 watts per channel. More like 60.
With two way bookshelf I prefer the fosi . With a three way speaker I would choose the Duok
Thanks for the review, Mann... where do they/you get these V3 specs and figures from? I have these amplifiers (and some from SMSL - worth checking out). Regarding power output, I'm surprised at you... simple math tells us with a power supply of 48v @ 5 amps it will only give you (assuming a theoretical 93% or so efficiency from a class D amplifier) 223.2 Watts total power or 111.6 Watts per channel in stereo mode into 4 ohms on a good day, double that for the 10amp power supply. If you like me, like to run tests on speakers (A DIY thing) then try feeding the inputs with white noise, you'll be lucky to get 10 Watts out of them before they shut down. However, specs aside, they can sound really good but are very speaker dependant (better with low impedance speaker loads than high ones) and for the money are excellent.
I'd love to hear your opinion on op amp changes
Check out the little Rogersound Labs amp for $115. I’ve compared it to 2 other cheap $80-90 amps and it’s better BY FAR! Shockingly good driving even my old B&W 801’s, which are a difficult load. It even looks nice for the price.
Wow, vintage 801s. That is awesome. I’m still running 45 yr.-old B&W DM6s.
Well now, did you have the opportunity to compare the Fosi monoblocks?
Is that a yet-to-be released GR Research prototype speaker behind you Ron? Any details? Looks the goods!
Yup! It’s gonna be one hell of a speaker
@@Newrecordday2013 i cant wait to see this in action! 🙌
Yes please for an opamp rolling video.
RON DO THE follow up video !!! I want to know you opinion 🙂
Still Jonesing over those Caladans in the background. Still waiting on mine.....coming up on one year since ordering.
Why the V3 instead of the far better sounding, very recommended and still cheap za3? Is it you just so hate the idea of having to say they actually sound pretty good? They ain't no Galleon, but they sure work nice in my not-so-expensive downstairs system.
I reviewed what was sent to me.
@@Newrecordday2013 Good on you. Fie on them that chose them.
@@Newrecordday2013 🤣🤣🙌🏼
Fosi V3 costs almost 1K in my country...
Douk almost 2.5K...
For the same amount of money I can buy good second hand stuff for example:
2 Marantz SR 4200 or 2 Pioneer VSX 823 or 2 Yamaha RX-V630...
I understand it's a "trend", but...
Here we go again with used v new argument that applies to everything.
@@jondonnelly3 it makes sense to me. You are free to do whatever you want with your money 😂
10/10 ending. :)
What are those speakers in the background?
I have a 20+ year old Realistic ( Radio Shack) tuner/ amplifier that works as good new. I am trying to find matching bookshelf speakers ( I know, good luck).
I’m gonna hold out for quantum dog!
Had some issues with the cheap fosi and aiyima sounding not good after rave reviews from the likes of cheap. Interested in the douk a100 yet I believe it was 50% off a couple or so days ago and now not so that's a pill I'm not willing to try.
By the time you get done with upgraded power supplies, opamp-rolling, etc., you’re better off going with a Yamaha A-S301, or similiar integrated. Better sound and more versatile.
Sparkos discrete op amps are an upgrade. How much on each of these is yet to be determined.
I wonder what you where hearing is the difference between pffb and no pffb
Look at him yearning
Desirous
His craving, his hunger
Constant needs, constant wants
Nothing will quell
Nothing will slake
Insatiable vacuous man
Hollow and see through
His emptiness has made him frail
That dying thing still believes
Others drive the nails
Incendiary god complex
Such gift to flammable man
This is what it made of him
This is what remains
Behold, how he devours
Unappeasable and cursed
That arid soul, famished and desiccated
I am that thirst
His gluttony can not be stilled
This state can never be reversed
Hollow and empty
Endlessly
Laws of physics. P(Watts)=VxA 48V x 10A =480W MAX. Plain and simple that is the most power this power supply can deliver no matter what. Some power consumed by preamp and nothing is 100% efficient. So the output stage does not even get that.
Rated at 300W x2? That would require a minimum of 600W out of that PS which is far past it's rating! Regardless of what load.
I= V/R 48V/2ohm (4 ohm x 2 channels) It would require the PS to deliver 24A, not 10A to maintain the 48V.
They are measuring peak output at sometimes 10% distortion. Yes this is manipulating statistics. But still there is good power there for normal listening levels in a home environment.
@@peterbaugh51 WRONG! Again it violates the laws of physics to claim this PS/ device can output more than 480 MAX with the bigger PS. It will prove impossible to run both channels into 4 ohm loads and get more than 480 MAX both channels. No matter the distortion.
@@glenncurry3041 Capacitors allow for higher peak output for brief moments in time. Some people call them caps. Music requires very brief peaks for power. These considerations must be taken into account when rating the power of an amplifier. But I'm just an Audio Engineer with a Science Degree. It's just my opinion.
@@glenncurry3041 I guess the confusion here is RMS power versus peak power output. In radio transmission it is called PEP or Peak Envelope Power. Music industry professionals know the difference.
@@peterbaugh51 Well aware of Caps, they were in the amp I built in '67. Along with the VTVM (test meter)Tube Tester, CB radio, ... I built. Won't bring up the pirate AM station I built in HS! The FCC almost caught me. Could have cost me my 1st Class FCC license required to run TV stations back then (called General Class now?). The guitar amps I've repaired and built, ... living in Nashville!
but your "Audio Engineer with a Science Degree. It's just my opinion." are flat out wrong about what Caps do in the PS. They NEVER INCREASE the voltage/ amperage " allow for higher peak output for brief moments in time". They help MAINTAIN it when the demand is greatest! The Caps can only charge up to the voltage provided to them. And then keep that charge when demand is greatest and in-between the incoming sinewave peaks.
And that's laws of physics not personal opinion.
The fosi ZA3 is more balanced than the V3. Highs are more rolled of.
To me, the Aiyima sounds the best of these budget amps, like the 07 Max. But let's be honest. These amps are not for critical listening. They are desktop amps that are great for bookshelf speakers in the near field. If that is what you are buying them for, then you will not be disappointed. When measured with the 48v/5a PSU in stereo, you can expect around 85WPC (ish) stereo RMS with low distortion numbers. Still, it's not bad for $150 - $180. Great for a desk 😉
i had a hearing test many years ago my hearing is not so great but i still enjoy music but im not killing myself to enjoy music
Do a blind test.
Have you heard of the recently announced new company: Radiant Acoustics?
On my elac ub5’s or my magnepans nothing is bright or out place, using TH-cam audio is laughable. Moving my speakers a few inches left or right creates more of a difference in sound than the sound of the Fosi v3. & suddenly after audioscience mentioned the the frequency response changes in the fosi, every one has a golden ear.😂😅
Yeah they are load dependent ... up about 1db at 20khz on 8 ohms, down about 1.5db at 20khz on 4 ohms ... Know anybody who could actually hear that?
Another audiophile tempest in a teapot.
wiim amp is a perfect all-in solution
I prefer the TDA7498E amp from ST electronics. ☮️🇦🇺
What GR Research abomination is that behind you? Did you just fuse LGK and X-Series into your own creation?
I will say, I do really love the stained wood sandwich design. When I get around to building my own speaker I plan on doing the same.
That's what DIY is about.
@@jondonnelly3 yep, I'm not knowledgeable enough to build a crossover from scratch to make a speaker like that work.
I'm sure he's learning a ton front this process. If that speaker has a rear firing LGK 2.0 woofer then that thing could be pretty sweet.
Thank you for reviewing these and debunking other channels hype as nonsense.