About a year ago I bought 16 EVE 280AH cells from Xuba. I did several similar capacity tests with the same type of meter just reaching expected capacity (total Ah & Wh) at a low C-rate (around .1 or so).These days I've been using the battery in an off-grid camp solar setup and have been very happy with them. They can power just about everything except RV-style air conditioners with our current setup. The battery sits at about 90% charged until we get to camp about every 3 or 4th weekend or so. It pushes a variety of loads anywhere from no-load draw on the inverter to near peak (4kW). Anything from power tools, small pumps, 2 small refrigerators, TVs, lights, fans, a window shaker air-conditioner, air compressor, pressure washer, coffee maker, microwave, cellphone booster, charging batteries, etc... I've gone through 3 of those DROK meters. Apparently, they don't like the temperature changes in a non-climate controlled room. The electronics becomes erratic and the readings are nonsensical. It hasn't proven to be a reliable long-term meter from my experience so far. I have another percent usage meter Will Prowse recommended back in his RV-living days, but it has to learn the battery capacity to be reasonably accurate. I've been apprehensive to intentionally drain the battery down forgoing solar for a day or two to calibrate it. Also, I periodically do maintenance & safety upgrades on the system where I'd have to disconnect the battery. Hence, having to re-train the meter again. I may just have to break down and spend some money on a decent capacity meter.
Great, thank you for insight and experience. I agree, probably worth it to spend a little bit more for a proper capacity monitor. I'll probably doing that myself soon as well. This monitor works well enough for now, but given the cost I wouldn't expect it to be perfectly accurate or to last forever.
This is the way to go. DIY lifepo4 saves some major bucks over buying name brand. I can build a 26KWh battery for less than 4K, and some factory built at that capacity can be priced at around 20K. Its not only less expensive, but its a fun hobby and you end up learning a LOT.
I really like the way you did your test. It seems like everyone else testing beats the battery with max draw and that is ok, but not very real testing for DoD.
I agree, but there are two things to consider. Firstly, this test takes three days! That is a long time. Secondly, I imagine alot of people will be using their batteries more intensely that I am here for longer periods of time, so a more intense test will give users a better estimate of their actual user experience, if not quite the true DoD.
Thank you for the video, but where did you buy those cells from? I am looking to buy the cells (EVE/Lishen). However, I think if I buy from any of the vendors in the affiliate links that you have given, the capacity tests will surely fail. They are selling used cells and not even Grade B. So your links are a little misleading. Kindly state the vendor that you bought from, apart from the affiliates. I wanted to buy from Alibaba (Shenzen Basen) but they aren't shipping to my location (South Korea). Trying to find a reliable vendor from Alibaba/AE. Thanks.
I really disagree. The link I used are not for "used" cells - they are the same links provided by Will Prowse, who is probably the biggest name on youtube when it comes to lifepo4. All the cells we are receiving that are repackaged Eve and Lishen are definitely grade B, and they will likely show some imperfections (usually scratched terminals and/or patching on the cell wrapper). Mine are no different. But the links I provided are the best available on AE. I ordered from Basen though, but I did not provide links because few users want to bother directly with Alibaba.
@@TheWilltoBuild So you didn't buy those cells from any of those vendors, then. That's what I wanted to know. BTW my friend here in Korea did buy 4 cells from Blmpow (seller on your first link), he got used cells. He left a 1 star comment too, as you can see. I don't know how/why but it seems the Quality of the cells shipped out vary a lot depening on the customer destination they are shipping to. I need more investigation. Anyways thanks for your clarification.
@@Sanwizard1 That would be perfect but LG isn't selling Lifepo4 cells for diy, I also don't think that have manufacturing here. And panasonic is Japanese, and again no lose cells for DIYers. I think China is leading in manufacturing these prismatic lifepo4 and the energy density seems great. And easier to get hold of the cells by individual DIY customers.
Curious why the split cable coming off your positive terminal, going through the loop of the tester? I'm still learning all this so it makes me wonder - is that a valid substitute for a thicker single cable, as far as how much capacity it can safely move, resistance, etc.?
Good question. Those cables actually came with an inverter and I just had them on hand, so no special reason I used them. But you can use multiple cables to substitute for a larger cable. Here is a link to a calculator that will tell you the equivalent gauge wire for a combination of smaller wires: www.wirebarn.com/Combined-Wire-Gauge-Calculator_ep_42.html
@@TheWilltoBuild Oh that's really helpful, thank you! It makes me wonder about whether or not I would even need to buy bigger gauge cabling for the shorter runs, or just use a couple of pieces of thinner gauge wire to accomplish the same thing. Trick is, is the single thicker stuff more or less expensive than twice the length of the appropriately-sized thinner stuff...
Thanks for the video. Any reason why your "C-rate" was relatively low? I have the EVE cells. It seems like anybody that hears me say I want to draw more than a hundred amps (@ 48v) thinks I'm crazy.. but these cells were rated at 1C discharge and charge when I got them. I think they might have de-rated them since then but I haven't checked.
My C-rate was low just because I couldn't find the right appliances to pull it any higher with consistency ( I need to get a better/safer heat gun) - but it shouldn't impact things too much versus a higher C rate of 50 amps or so. I have another video where I talk about the exact C rates these are rated for - I think they are both rated for 1C (and the Lishen for 2C for brief periods). 100 Amps should be more than doable with these cells, it is only 40 amps at 120 volts, which is a lot but hardly unheard of. I'll be pulling that myself at times when I am set up.
@@TheWilltoBuild good to know! I’ve been going about three days now and have come from 3.320v to 3.362v measured at three points on the bus bars. I’m going to make better bus bars, because they aren’t the best connections. Thank you for the reply!
Buddy if you can point me to a video of yours that explains what to do when you get a brand new set of these batteries, I will subscribe. Im about to receive 16 of these cells any day and not really sure what the first things I need to do before putting them in service.
I wouldn’t trust that capacity tester, I have 3 exactly the same make/model and they measure a different current on the same current calibrated against a fluke meter and the voltage difference is even greater! At the moment I’m going to use them for my 3 packs but only for the most general of relative charging/discharging/voltage.
I hear you. But I tested the amperage measured against my ammeter with a variety of different loads and while it was off, sometimes it was a little over, sometimes it was a bit below. I couldn't actually find a consistent bias. So my test isn't perfect, but I do think it is generally close to the mark.
Take a look at the eneramp capacity test video using pro equipment from hp/agilent. You'll notice that test hardware doesn't spew out random numbers like the China testers on Ali express. Also due to the peukert effect, at c/72h you are getting an unrealistic capacity. Lead acid was usually tested under a 20h rate. For lifepo4, most mfgs. spec a c/5 rate. One of the great benefits of lifepo4 for rv'ing is that you can run a microwave / convection oven in convection mode for 45 minutes, assuming your inverter is sized appropriately.
@@swsuwave This incorrect - there is no Peukert effect to li-ion, so a slow draw test is fine. Additionally, alot of lifepo4 cells recommend a .2 C draw for capacity testing. But I agree about the meter - it is not going to be super accurate. But I don't need to be super accurate, I just want to test to see if the the cells broadly make capacity.
Well A. I am not selling them, so I don't know why you think I have any reason to obscure the price. B. The links to buy them are RIGHT IN THE DESCRIPTION! So you can see for your self.
About a year ago I bought 16 EVE 280AH cells from Xuba. I did several similar capacity tests with the same type of meter just reaching expected capacity (total Ah & Wh) at a low C-rate (around .1 or so).These days I've been using the battery in an off-grid camp solar setup and have been very happy with them. They can power just about everything except RV-style air conditioners with our current setup. The battery sits at about 90% charged until we get to camp about every 3 or 4th weekend or so. It pushes a variety of loads anywhere from no-load draw on the inverter to near peak (4kW). Anything from power tools, small pumps, 2 small refrigerators, TVs, lights, fans, a window shaker air-conditioner, air compressor, pressure washer, coffee maker, microwave, cellphone booster, charging batteries, etc...
I've gone through 3 of those DROK meters. Apparently, they don't like the temperature changes in a non-climate controlled room. The electronics becomes erratic and the readings are nonsensical. It hasn't proven to be a reliable long-term meter from my experience so far. I have another percent usage meter Will Prowse recommended back in his RV-living days, but it has to learn the battery capacity to be reasonably accurate. I've been apprehensive to intentionally drain the battery down forgoing solar for a day or two to calibrate it. Also, I periodically do maintenance & safety upgrades on the system where I'd have to disconnect the battery. Hence, having to re-train the meter again. I may just have to break down and spend some money on a decent capacity meter.
Great, thank you for insight and experience. I agree, probably worth it to spend a little bit more for a proper capacity monitor. I'll probably doing that myself soon as well. This monitor works well enough for now, but given the cost I wouldn't expect it to be perfectly accurate or to last forever.
Im thinking of building something similar. are you running your 16 cells in series to get 48v?
@@Cerco170 yep, that is exactly what I am doing.
@@Cerco170 No, I'm using 24V nominal. An 8S2P configuration. A BMS on each pack.
This is the way to go. DIY lifepo4 saves some major bucks over buying name brand. I can build a 26KWh battery for less than 4K, and some factory built at that capacity can be priced at around 20K. Its not only less expensive, but its a fun hobby and you end up learning a LOT.
I completely agree, there is literally no comparison.
I really like the way you did your test. It seems like everyone else testing beats the battery with max draw and that is ok, but not very real testing for DoD.
I agree, but there are two things to consider. Firstly, this test takes three days! That is a long time. Secondly, I imagine alot of people will be using their batteries more intensely that I am here for longer periods of time, so a more intense test will give users a better estimate of their actual user experience, if not quite the true DoD.
Wow this was surprising. I would have never guessed this.
Thanks for making this video
Got 32 of these in transit right now for 28kwh 😁
My new EVE 280 Ah cells have 2x2 connections (4 6 mm studs per cell),have a powerfull 2023 year.
Yes.👍
Great capacity!
Thank you for the video, but where did you buy those cells from? I am looking to buy the cells (EVE/Lishen). However, I think if I buy from any of the vendors in the affiliate links that you have given, the capacity tests will surely fail. They are selling used cells and not even Grade B. So your links are a little misleading. Kindly state the vendor that you bought from, apart from the affiliates. I wanted to buy from Alibaba (Shenzen Basen) but they aren't shipping to my location (South Korea). Trying to find a reliable vendor from Alibaba/AE. Thanks.
You should get LG or Panasonic then! No shipping costs!
I really disagree. The link I used are not for "used" cells - they are the same links provided by Will Prowse, who is probably the biggest name on youtube when it comes to lifepo4. All the cells we are receiving that are repackaged Eve and Lishen are definitely grade B, and they will likely show some imperfections (usually scratched terminals and/or patching on the cell wrapper). Mine are no different. But the links I provided are the best available on AE. I ordered from Basen though, but I did not provide links because few users want to bother directly with Alibaba.
@@TheWilltoBuild So you didn't buy those cells from any of those vendors, then. That's what I wanted to know. BTW my friend here in Korea did buy 4 cells from Blmpow (seller on your first link), he got used cells. He left a 1 star comment too, as you can see. I don't know how/why but it seems the Quality of the cells shipped out vary a lot depening on the customer destination they are shipping to. I need more investigation. Anyways thanks for your clarification.
@@Sanwizard1 That would be perfect but LG isn't selling Lifepo4 cells for diy, I also don't think that have manufacturing here. And panasonic is Japanese, and again no lose cells for DIYers. I think China is leading in manufacturing these prismatic lifepo4 and the energy density seems great. And easier to get hold of the cells by individual DIY customers.
Curious why the split cable coming off your positive terminal, going through the loop of the tester? I'm still learning all this so it makes me wonder - is that a valid substitute for a thicker single cable, as far as how much capacity it can safely move, resistance, etc.?
Good question. Those cables actually came with an inverter and I just had them on hand, so no special reason I used them. But you can use multiple cables to substitute for a larger cable. Here is a link to a calculator that will tell you the equivalent gauge wire for a combination of smaller wires: www.wirebarn.com/Combined-Wire-Gauge-Calculator_ep_42.html
@@TheWilltoBuild Oh that's really helpful, thank you!
It makes me wonder about whether or not I would even need to buy bigger gauge cabling for the shorter runs, or just use a couple of pieces of thinner gauge wire to accomplish the same thing. Trick is, is the single thicker stuff more or less expensive than twice the length of the appropriately-sized thinner stuff...
Thanks for the video. Any reason why your "C-rate" was relatively low? I have the EVE cells. It seems like anybody that hears me say I want to draw more than a hundred amps (@ 48v) thinks I'm crazy.. but these cells were rated at 1C discharge and charge when I got them. I think they might have de-rated them since then but I haven't checked.
My C-rate was low just because I couldn't find the right appliances to pull it any higher with consistency ( I need to get a better/safer heat gun) - but it shouldn't impact things too much versus a higher C rate of 50 amps or so. I have another video where I talk about the exact C rates these are rated for - I think they are both rated for 1C (and the Lishen for 2C for brief periods). 100 Amps should be more than doable with these cells, it is only 40 amps at 120 volts, which is a lot but hardly unheard of. I'll be pulling that myself at times when I am set up.
Excellent video! Did you use the bench charger? How long did that take? I’m charging a 24v version of this in parallel right now, taking FOREVER. Lol
I do use the simply bench power supply as a charger. It can definitely take a long time (think days). Make sure you have great terminal connections.
@@TheWilltoBuild good to know! I’ve been going about three days now and have come from 3.320v to 3.362v measured at three points on the bus bars. I’m going to make better bus bars, because they aren’t the best connections. Thank you for the reply!
Did you check the power used by the meter? In a 72 hour run, it will have used an amp hour or three ;-)
I didn't, but you're probably right. Given how they did on the test though, I don't think it matters.
A low C rate test will result in higher than advertised AH rating. This is typical
If you are still around.... what C rate would you suggest for testing these batteries?
@@msach4277 DJLBERMPW Lithium Battery
Buddy if you can point me to a video of yours that explains what to do when you get a brand new set of these batteries, I will subscribe. Im about to receive 16 of these cells any day and not really sure what the first things I need to do before putting them in service.
That's a great idea. I'll try to get to it this week.
Don't do what I did and skip the top balance. That will cost you a week of time you can never get back.
One question that nonone answers.....you discharge batteries at 0%? 12.6v is full discharge? And if so, won't that damage your batteries?
I wouldn’t trust that capacity tester, I have 3 exactly the same make/model and they measure a different current on the same current calibrated against a fluke meter and the voltage difference is even greater!
At the moment I’m going to use them for my 3 packs but only for the most general of relative charging/discharging/voltage.
I hear you. But I tested the amperage measured against my ammeter with a variety of different loads and while it was off, sometimes it was a little over, sometimes it was a bit below. I couldn't actually find a consistent bias. So my test isn't perfect, but I do think it is generally close to the mark.
Take a look at the eneramp capacity test video using pro equipment from hp/agilent. You'll notice that test hardware doesn't spew out random numbers like the China testers on Ali express. Also due to the peukert effect, at c/72h you are getting an unrealistic capacity. Lead acid was usually tested under a 20h rate. For lifepo4, most mfgs. spec a c/5 rate. One of the great benefits of lifepo4 for rv'ing is that you can run a microwave / convection oven in convection mode for 45 minutes, assuming your inverter is sized appropriately.
@@swsuwave This incorrect - there is no Peukert effect to li-ion, so a slow draw test is fine. Additionally, alot of lifepo4 cells recommend a .2 C draw for capacity testing. But I agree about the meter - it is not going to be super accurate. But I don't need to be super accurate, I just want to test to see if the the cells broadly make capacity.
NONE of you jokers say anytthing about how much they cost,,just a big surprise i guess,,,thumbs down to you on this test,
Well A. I am not selling them, so I don't know why you think I have any reason to obscure the price. B. The links to buy them are RIGHT IN THE DESCRIPTION! So you can see for your self.