For the best looking trap don't have gaps in sleepers around points and at every joint. Solder droppers to the underneath of rail in between the sleepers. Make sure track maintains it's shape in and out of points, try and avoid a curve beginning at a point where possible.
@@ngaugefouroaksstreetstatio6932 found soldering wire to the underside of the fishplates works well - no chance of melting sleepers and the solder seems to take to them far better. agree on a bit of straight or gentle curve out of a point though. also found instead of marking out the track plan with a knife its easier to just glue the paper plan down, easy to add notes for block numbers etc
@@aleopardstail Yes soldering to fish plates is easier but at the expense of having unsightly gaps in sleepers at every point or join which is not proto typical but your choice.
@@ngaugefouroaksstreetstatio6932 not had the problem, soldered under the fishplates then added two of the PECO extra sleepers, all fitted fine. I've done the wire going across the fishplate, not the length of it, specifically to avoid that problem. couldn't do it everywhere (some blocks are a single length of track) but where I could its basically invisible its also utterly impossible to correct if it goes wrong though. ends up with two small holes, about 2mm in diameter here, through the baseboard and thats about it. this is a small layout (smaller than Shelfington!) when I go a bit bigger will be easier. note this also works nicely with set track and the design of that avoids the sleeper issue entirely
Love your “Everyman” approach, Rob. You didn’t get as far as you wanted to? You should see my (lack of) progress. One track laying tip: rather than removing a couple of ties at the end of tracks to make room for joiners, just clip off the “chairs” that hold the rail to the ties. Then you can slip the joiner between the rail and the tie, and don’t have to replace ties later, after trackwork is complete. Looking forward to future videos.
Cheers Ron. I keep forgetting it's a hobby and I should be enjoying the process, not rushing through it. Although I would actually like to run a train before 2030! Thanks for the tip. I'll give this a go 👍
An excellent update, don’t worry about the camera angle; little wicket baseball cap time. The base boards look very impressive, lots of rocking stock space. Someone is going to have a lot of fun running trains. Looking forward to the next mid year update. All best Marc
Poor old past Rob you do give him some stick😂. I used the flooring underlay stuff on my layout, it may have been me who gave Charlie the idea. Don’t worry about the progress or lack of just means we have more to look forward to. Great update 👍🏻.
Credit it should have gone to you then! I think I'm a bit too clumsy for the underlay keep taking chunks out of it with the drill, etc. it'll look a right mess when I'm finished.
@@LittleWicketRailway granted it can get a bit messy, but that can be covered up later. I've cut round my track in most areas, the offcuts can be used fo scenic build up.
Hi Rob, I haven't had chance to watch the full video yet got food shopping to do and make sure kids homework is done. After I finish my other project I am getting back on with my railway on Thursday evenings. I have also used underlay stuff before it does the job, but you are right it does damage very easily.
trick I found for point motors and tie bars, get a small bit of plastic, the clear stuff from a blister pack is fine. cut a square of it about an inch square is fine. now cut a small slot for the actuator pin - about one and a bit mill wide and as long as you need when you lay the point stick this under but don't glue it - glue it after the point is stuck down, position with a pin through the slot. what you end up with is a decent sized hole in the wood, but only a very small slot at the top for the bar - avoids ballast, glue etc going down the hole and its invisible once painted
Not that it matters in the fiddle yard but you could of cut just one side of the sleeper to keep the track appearance up. Good plan to have a full size storage area. looking forward to seeing the Helix design and how it works with only a single line plan. For me its always important to put the sleepers back into place where ever possible, in other words fill in all the gaps once the track is laid.
Great to see some progress! If the track is in a storage area and won't be seen, just trim the tie bars, there would therefore be no need to add track fillers. I also cut the chairs under the track rather than remove sleepers, then I can slide the joiners into place. Charlie has a neat way of adding the joiners with a piece of track bent in the vertical plane, not the horizontal plane. HTH.
I use a similar method of laying track, but a little less damaging. I layout the track plan using Scram, then print it out at full size on large paper (11x17.) This may take several tries until I am happy with the results. I tape the paper together, so it doesn't move and hold it down with pins. Using a fine point Sharpie, I can push the pen thru the paper into the underlayment (I use for insulation.) I do this every few inches/cm along the center of the track. I then place the turnouts on the paper and mark the location of the throw bar hole (again using the fine point Sharpie and placing it in the throw bar hole and moving the throw bar in all directions to define an area.) In a like manner, I mark the frog wire hole and dropper/feeder hole. Since the location of these wires are determined by the point/switch number, this can be done before soldering the wires to the turnout. That now completed, I remove the track/turnouts from the paper template, and drill the holes thru the paper, underlayment, and baseboard. I use approximately the same size drills you are using but drill small pilot holes first. That way there is no wandering of the larger drill bits. A standard technique used by machinist that seems to have escaped most model railroaders. I have also found that you can place your switch/point motor, upside down on the turnout and position it correctly. Then mark the mounting holes on the template. After removing the turnout, I drill a very small hole thru the paper and underlayment to locate the correct position of the motor. This may require purchasing an extra-long, small drill bit for elevated sections above the baseboard. They are available in 80mm and 160mm (6") lengths on Amazon for about $8 for 10 bits. After the paper is removed. The center line of the track is marked by connecting the dots made by the Sharpie. No damage to the underlayment has occurred. I use Copydex to glue the cork roadbed and to glue the track, but not the turnouts. I do not glue turnouts, that way if I have to replace one, it is easily removed. The ballast with secure them in place. You do have an advantage being in the UK, Copydex in the US is very expensive, $19 for a small container. You can get a liter in the UK for less. I picked up a couple of bottles the last time I was over there to use for track and cork adhesion. It holds well, is removable with a scrapper, and can be peeled off.
Hi Earl, great advice, I especially like the marking of the point motor mounts which is something I've always struggled with. What size drill bit do you use for those positioning holes? Also, it's interesting that you don't glue your points. Would you still not glue them for something like the points ladder in the video? Do you ever find you have problems with them not being glued? I'm using copydex and, as you've said, fortunately it's not too expensive here.
@@LittleWicketRailway I am using a 1/16 drill bit which is equivalent to a 1.5mm bit. Amazon has 160mm (6") long 1.55 drill bits. I am just starting this and will have more input later today. The long drill bits arrived yesterday. As for a ladder, good question. I have not built one. I am modeling a four-track yard from 1890 which does not use a ladder but does have several turnouts. As for attaching the turnouts to the roadbed, this may depend on the brand of turnouts. In the UK you use mostly Peco, I am using Atlas, which I find best for Code 55 track. They do not have holes for using track pins or screws, but I could drill holes in the sleepers. In one section, I have 6 points connected together with several small pieces of track as interconnects to create the 4-track yard. This is how the actual yard was constructed. Ballasting may hold the points in place well enough. I believe Charlie Bishop does this, but he is building OO on HO track and not on N scale track. I tried Peco points, but they don't play well with non-Peco Code 55 track. Peco Code 55 track is Code 80 with an offset; therefore, rail joiners don't work. I tried filing Peco points to make them real Code 55, but ended up with points that are not acceptable. Also, Atlas Code 55 points are much more DCC friendly than Peco with it clipping of jumpers and removing of springs, etc. Plus, I am building in block detection, which requires insulated rail jointers on the "B rail", but with Peco, you have to isolate the whole point because of the way the frog is constructed. There is also the cost of using Peco vs. Atlas in the US. But I digress. I will have a better idea how this works out in my yard in a few days.
The 6" 1/16 drills have arrived, and I have installed a turnout using this method and it works well. Depending on the type of switch motor you are using, the location of the pilot holes may be under the track. This is the case with the Walters motors that I am using. I was able to drill three of the four holes from above. I needed to block up the switch motor to make it parallel to the baseboard since the track plus roadbed is 5 or 6 mm higher. I used two layers of cork roadbed scrap, placed under the switch motor next to the track roadbed. I have 18 more of these to do, I will take some pictures of the process and send them to you if you wish.
Looking good Rob. It's great to see the differences between your old layout and this one as it clearly shows your evolution within the hobby. It would be great to hear more decisions you've made as you've learned more about building layouts. Btw, I love the honesty in your videos, but you really don't need to apologise for anything. If you'd just continued with the edit without the caveats, we'd never even notice and it would still look slick! Keep up the great work!
Hi Rob, great video and I love the rotary tool extension. Not seen one of those before! My tip came from the DCC Concepts Cobalt motor instructions (on their Web site). If you're using under-board motors, you don't need those lugs on the tie bar that get in the way. If they do, simply cut them off rather than moving the next point or the webbing under track. They go further to suggest that the tie bar is trimmed and the spring box removed from all scenic points - looks SO much better, but obviously only do this if using Cobalt or Tortoise motors, it will render a solonoid controlled point unusable.
With the tie bars I always trim back the sleepers for mounting the peco point motors and the knobs on the end of the bar. It doesn't really matter on a fiddle yard but looks so much better on the scenic section. It has no effect on the robustness of the point itself.
Very good video, right pace, right depth. Thanks for the tip on printing an Anyrail track plan. My original plan has Hornby turnouts but I'm going to re-design my layout to incorporate PECO turnouts, Unifrog if I can get them. I'm also going to go with DCC Concepts ESP. Wireless is so attractive for someone who has never soldered before.
Nice tonsure Rob! 😆and especially a nice video. Thank you for sharing. I do my trackwork pretty much exactly the same way you do, rotary cutting to and all
Poor Rob and has mythical hair 🫣 You did well! Despite future Rob getting in the way 🤣💜 Have to say, thats a huge fiddle yard mate - if I had my time again, and the funds, I'd like to think a helix would have made an appearance!🙂 Cheers bud 😊
Rob, you must have a very understanding partner to give up such a large room to be used for playing trains... Don't worry about not getting quite to the point where you thought it would be... any progress is still progress...
@@LittleWicketRailway Looks like you will need a lot of scenic pieces on this layout. The printer will get some use for sure and bespoke designs as well. My layout has had its winter break due to the cold weather and working in the loft is no fun.
Well done for getting that far Rob! We both had a rotten illness over Christmas too and it wasn’t very nice at all 😢 At least you have made progress though and it’s good to se you are taking your time. Sure fire way of cocking Uris to rush it all! 🥺 Cheers mate 🍀👍🍻
Got loads of hornby track but i am going to use peco points in future as their much better than the hornby ones also i just used the sheets of rolled up static grass and laid the track on top is much cheaper than cork and you get a realistic looking finish does the job
Helpfull tip i would rather just try and find the internal straps in the wall for fixing as i wouldnt want loads of holes in my wall by using rawlplugs
Hi Rob, can’t help but notice some G gauge, LGB and the like in the background of your last couple of videos. A future project branching out into the garden in the summer? 👀. I’m in the fortunate position like you to be able to collect both “oo” and “g”, so I look forward to seeing what is to come! Cheers 👍🏻
Well spotted. I can't find a way to make it work in our garden and I think the dog would probably enjoy eating it. The plan is to have a little shuttle that runs along the shelves. My only concern is that, in the unlikely event of a derailment, it would be quite the disaster as G gauge meets OO at high speed. Need to look into what could be used as a barrier around the edge.
Awesome seeing the progress on the layout, my layout has stalled. trying my hand at repairing and painting my old buildings instead, also 3d printing new homes. Can't wait for the next video, what are you using for block controls? Take care & Have fun.
Sometimes something else just takes your interested. If you're enjoying the painting and printing then do for a bit. Mainly using MERG block occupancy current sensors.
great update,as usual, concise and to the point, who needs 20 mins of drilling & vacuming..lol. have you concidered expansion gaps to compensate for seasonal temperarure changes? I look forward to future releases as you progress and will be using them as I prepare my attic for my retirement layout.
Hi Rob, just watched your part 2 , track and boards are looking very good , a question ? your putting a helix in one end , what are the diameter of helix , and what sorta a angle you going to, i have restricted space and been thinking of a helix but its the sizez that worry me . many thanks
Hi Tony, the plan calls for an oval, rather than circular, helix. 4th radius curves with straight sections on the outer line going up to give a gradient of around 1.5% (I think). I can't remember exactly. It's definitely under 2%. I tried to keep all inclines under 2%. All the testing suggests it should be fine. I have purchased the powerbase system to go under the track just in case any locos struggle.
Hi.. Great vid.... it it possable to give an idea of price for 65 meters of track and what looks like 25 set of points??? am looking at setting up a layout my self but will have to watch the pennys somewhat.. Cheers.
Hi Dave, based on prices at www.derails.co.uk you're looking at £300 for the 65m of flex track (£99.90 per box) and approximately £375 for the points (~£15 each) depending on the type of points you want to use. So around £675 in total, not cheap unfortunately. If you're on a budget then it might be worth keeping your eyes on the second hand market as spare track often comes up.
@@LittleWicketRailway .. Wow.. yeah I think ebay will be getting hammered :) cheers for that... I had to build my shed first.. done just getting the staging done..
What's a Drill Doctor?? Heading off to Google... Edit: Ohhh, like a pencil sharpener for drill bits. I've got loads of snapped drill bits I've never binned. This might come in useful.
@@LittleWicketRailway Yes, it is very handy for restoring drill bits. It also sharpens them. I've had one for years & haven't had to buy another bit, unless I didn't have the size I needed. My father was a tool & die maker; he would sharpen them on a regular grinder. I don't possess that skill so, the Drill Doctor to the rescue. Keith Appleton has a channel & in one video he bought one & did a short video about it.
Honest reality is great to see Rob. In the real world stuff happens and plans change. Sometimes it helps the thought process and provides a winning solution. Keep giving the tool tips as they make life easier vs blunt drills!😂
Hi Rob looked very professional but sharpen your drill bits lol and you did blind me at one stage lol looking forward to the rest of the build cheers Al
I've you've got any tips for laying track then please share them in the comments below 👇 Thanks for watching!
For the best looking trap don't have gaps in sleepers around points and at every joint. Solder droppers to the underneath of rail in between the sleepers. Make sure track maintains it's shape in and out of points, try and avoid a curve beginning at a point where possible.
@@ngaugefouroaksstreetstatio6932 found soldering wire to the underside of the fishplates works well - no chance of melting sleepers and the solder seems to take to them far better.
agree on a bit of straight or gentle curve out of a point though.
also found instead of marking out the track plan with a knife its easier to just glue the paper plan down, easy to add notes for block numbers etc
@@aleopardstail Yes soldering to fish plates is easier but at the expense of having unsightly gaps in sleepers at every point or join which is not proto typical but your choice.
@@ngaugefouroaksstreetstatio6932 not had the problem, soldered under the fishplates then added two of the PECO extra sleepers, all fitted fine. I've done the wire going across the fishplate, not the length of it, specifically to avoid that problem. couldn't do it everywhere (some blocks are a single length of track) but where I could its basically invisible
its also utterly impossible to correct if it goes wrong though.
ends up with two small holes, about 2mm in diameter here, through the baseboard and thats about it. this is a small layout (smaller than Shelfington!) when I go a bit bigger will be easier.
note this also works nicely with set track and the design of that avoids the sleeper issue entirely
@@aleopardstail That is the right way , many just leave the gaps.
Love your “Everyman” approach, Rob. You didn’t get as far as you wanted to? You should see my (lack of) progress. One track laying tip: rather than removing a couple of ties at the end of tracks to make room for joiners, just clip off the “chairs” that hold the rail to the ties. Then you can slip the joiner between the rail and the tie, and don’t have to replace ties later, after trackwork is complete. Looking forward to future videos.
Cheers Ron. I keep forgetting it's a hobby and I should be enjoying the process, not rushing through it. Although I would actually like to run a train before 2030! Thanks for the tip. I'll give this a go 👍
An excellent update, don’t worry about the camera angle; little wicket baseball cap time. The base boards look very impressive, lots of rocking stock space. Someone is going to have a lot of fun running trains. Looking forward to the next mid year update. All best Marc
Thanks Marc. Love the baseball cap idea 😂
Poor old past Rob you do give him some stick😂. I used the flooring underlay stuff on my layout, it may have been me who gave Charlie the idea. Don’t worry about the progress or lack of just means we have more to look forward to. Great update 👍🏻.
Credit it should have gone to you then! I think I'm a bit too clumsy for the underlay keep taking chunks out of it with the drill, etc. it'll look a right mess when I'm finished.
@@LittleWicketRailway granted it can get a bit messy, but that can be covered up later. I've cut round my track in most areas, the offcuts can be used fo scenic build up.
Hi Rob, I haven't had chance to watch the full video yet got food shopping to do and make sure kids homework is done. After I finish my other project I am getting back on with my railway on Thursday
evenings. I have also used underlay stuff before it does the job, but you are right it does damage very easily.
Hope your railway is going well 👍
trick I found for point motors and tie bars, get a small bit of plastic, the clear stuff from a blister pack is fine. cut a square of it about an inch square is fine. now cut a small slot for the actuator pin - about one and a bit mill wide and as long as you need when you lay the point stick this under but don't glue it - glue it after the point is stuck down, position with a pin through the slot.
what you end up with is a decent sized hole in the wood, but only a very small slot at the top for the bar - avoids ballast, glue etc going down the hole and its invisible once painted
Not that it matters in the fiddle yard but you could of cut just one side of the sleeper to keep the track appearance up. Good plan to have a full size storage area. looking forward to seeing the Helix design and how it works with only a single line plan.
For me its always important to put the sleepers back into place where ever possible, in other words fill in all the gaps once the track is laid.
Great to see some progress! If the track is in a storage area and won't be seen, just trim the tie bars, there would therefore be no need to add track fillers. I also cut the chairs under the track rather than remove sleepers, then I can slide the joiners into place. Charlie has a neat way of adding the joiners with a piece of track bent in the vertical plane, not the horizontal plane. HTH.
Thanks 👍 good advice just cutting the tie bars
I use a similar method of laying track, but a little less damaging. I layout the track plan using Scram, then print it out at full size on large paper (11x17.) This may take several tries until I am happy with the results. I tape the paper together, so it doesn't move and hold it down with pins. Using a fine point Sharpie, I can push the pen thru the paper into the underlayment (I use for insulation.) I do this every few inches/cm along the center of the track.
I then place the turnouts on the paper and mark the location of the throw bar hole (again using the fine point Sharpie and placing it in the throw bar hole and moving the throw bar in all directions to define an area.) In a like manner, I mark the frog wire hole and dropper/feeder hole. Since the location of these wires are determined by the point/switch number, this can be done before soldering the wires to the turnout.
That now completed, I remove the track/turnouts from the paper template, and drill the holes thru the paper, underlayment, and baseboard. I use approximately the same size drills you are using but drill small pilot holes first. That way there is no wandering of the larger drill bits. A standard technique used by machinist that seems to have escaped most model railroaders.
I have also found that you can place your switch/point motor, upside down on the turnout and position it correctly. Then mark the mounting holes on the template. After removing the turnout, I drill a very small hole thru the paper and underlayment to locate the correct position of the motor. This may require purchasing an extra-long, small drill bit for elevated sections above the baseboard. They are available in 80mm and 160mm (6") lengths on Amazon for about $8 for 10 bits.
After the paper is removed. The center line of the track is marked by connecting the dots made by the Sharpie. No damage to the underlayment has occurred.
I use Copydex to glue the cork roadbed and to glue the track, but not the turnouts. I do not glue turnouts, that way if I have to replace one, it is easily removed. The ballast with secure them in place. You do have an advantage being in the UK, Copydex in the US is very expensive, $19 for a small container. You can get a liter in the UK for less. I picked up a couple of bottles the last time I was over there to use for track and cork adhesion. It holds well, is removable with a scrapper, and can be peeled off.
Hi Earl, great advice, I especially like the marking of the point motor mounts which is something I've always struggled with. What size drill bit do you use for those positioning holes?
Also, it's interesting that you don't glue your points. Would you still not glue them for something like the points ladder in the video? Do you ever find you have problems with them not being glued?
I'm using copydex and, as you've said, fortunately it's not too expensive here.
@@LittleWicketRailway I am using a 1/16 drill bit which is equivalent to a 1.5mm bit. Amazon has 160mm (6") long 1.55 drill bits. I am just starting this and will have more input later today. The long drill bits arrived yesterday.
As for a ladder, good question. I have not built one. I am modeling a four-track yard from 1890 which does not use a ladder but does have several turnouts. As for attaching the turnouts to the roadbed, this may depend on the brand of turnouts. In the UK you use mostly Peco, I am using Atlas, which I find best for Code 55 track. They do not have holes for using track pins or screws, but I could drill holes in the sleepers. In one section, I have 6 points connected together with several small pieces of track as interconnects to create the 4-track yard. This is how the actual yard was constructed. Ballasting may hold the points in place well enough. I believe Charlie Bishop does this, but he is building OO on HO track and not on N scale track.
I tried Peco points, but they don't play well with non-Peco Code 55 track. Peco Code 55 track is Code 80 with an offset; therefore, rail joiners don't work. I tried filing Peco points to make them real Code 55, but ended up with points that are not acceptable. Also, Atlas Code 55 points are much more DCC friendly than Peco with it clipping of jumpers and removing of springs, etc. Plus, I am building in block detection, which requires insulated rail jointers on the "B rail", but with Peco, you have to isolate the whole point because of the way the frog is constructed. There is also the cost of using Peco vs. Atlas in the US. But I digress.
I will have a better idea how this works out in my yard in a few days.
The 6" 1/16 drills have arrived, and I have installed a turnout using this method and it works well. Depending on the type of switch motor you are using, the location of the pilot holes may be under the track. This is the case with the Walters motors that I am using. I was able to drill three of the four holes from above. I needed to block up the switch motor to make it parallel to the baseboard since the track plus roadbed is 5 or 6 mm higher. I used two layers of cork roadbed scrap, placed under the switch motor next to the track roadbed. I have 18 more of these to do, I will take some pictures of the process and send them to you if you wish.
Looking good Rob. It's great to see the differences between your old layout and this one as it clearly shows your evolution within the hobby. It would be great to hear more decisions you've made as you've learned more about building layouts.
Btw, I love the honesty in your videos, but you really don't need to apologise for anything. If you'd just continued with the edit without the caveats, we'd never even notice and it would still look slick! Keep up the great work!
Thanks Ian. I'll share everything I've learned as I go along, suspect a lot of it will be learned the hard way 🤣
Hi Rob, great video and I love the rotary tool extension. Not seen one of those before!
My tip came from the DCC Concepts Cobalt motor instructions (on their Web site). If you're using under-board motors, you don't need those lugs on the tie bar that get in the way. If they do, simply cut them off rather than moving the next point or the webbing under track.
They go further to suggest that the tie bar is trimmed and the spring box removed from all scenic points - looks SO much better, but obviously only do this if using Cobalt or Tortoise motors, it will render a solonoid controlled point unusable.
Top tip John! I think I'll do this in the scenic section.
With the tie bars I always trim back the sleepers for mounting the peco point motors and the knobs on the end of the bar. It doesn't really matter on a fiddle yard but looks so much better on the scenic section. It has no effect on the robustness of the point itself.
Good suggestion, think I will be doing this 👍
Very good video, right pace, right depth.
Thanks for the tip on printing an Anyrail track plan. My original plan has Hornby turnouts but I'm going to re-design my layout to incorporate PECO turnouts, Unifrog if I can get them. I'm also going to go with DCC Concepts ESP. Wireless is so attractive for someone who has never soldered before.
Not tried DCC concepts ESP, let me know how you get on. Don't be afraid of wiring, it's half the fun 🙂
Nice tonsure Rob! 😆and especially a nice video. Thank you for sharing. I do my trackwork pretty much exactly the same way you do, rotary cutting to and all
I had to Google that 😅 do they have model railways in monasteries? 🤣
Poor Rob and has mythical hair 🫣
You did well! Despite future Rob getting in the way 🤣💜
Have to say, thats a huge fiddle yard mate - if I had my time again, and the funds, I'd like to think a helix would have made an appearance!🙂
Cheers bud 😊
Cheers. As someone has suggested, it might be time for a baseball cap if I'm going to film from above 😂
@@LittleWicketRailway noo embrace it sir!!
Go out and buy a good set of twist drill bits and several extra of the size you use most. Cheers Andy from NZ.
I know Andy, cheap drills bits are a false economy, lesson learned.
Rob, you must have a very understanding partner to give up such a large room to be used for playing trains... Don't worry about not getting quite to the point where you thought it would be... any progress is still progress...
My wife tolerates me and my hobby. I think she quite likes it when I disappear to the railway and leave her in peace.
Looking good Rob
Cheers. Getting there. I've been distracted by a bit of 3D printing recently.
@@LittleWicketRailway Looks like you will need a lot of scenic pieces on this layout. The printer will get some use for sure and bespoke designs as well. My layout has had its winter break due to the cold weather and working in the loft is no fun.
Easiest way to lay track is to get some other bugger to do it!
😂
Well done for getting that far Rob! We both had a rotten illness over Christmas too and it wasn’t very nice at all 😢 At least you have made progress though and it’s good to se you are taking your time. Sure fire way of cocking Uris to rush it all! 🥺
Cheers mate 🍀👍🍻
Thanks Tim. Hope you're fully recovered now 🙂
👍👍👍
Keep up the good work!
Thanks Mike 👍
Great to see you again. My layout is progressing nearly as quickly as yours 😂
Good to know I'm not alone. We're not slow, we're just taking our time to make sure it's perfect... 🙄
Got loads of hornby track but i am going to use peco points in future as their much better than the hornby ones also i just used the sheets of rolled up static grass and laid the track on top is much cheaper than cork and you get a realistic looking finish does the job
Great video bud, layout is looking good, wish I had thought of doing something like this with mine might have to make some changes
Helpfull tip i would rather just try and find the internal straps in the wall for fixing as i wouldnt want loads of holes in my wall by using rawlplugs
Hi Rob, can’t help but notice some G gauge, LGB and the like in the background of your last couple of videos. A future project branching out into the garden in the summer? 👀. I’m in the fortunate position like you to be able to collect both “oo” and “g”, so I look forward to seeing what is to come! Cheers 👍🏻
Well spotted. I can't find a way to make it work in our garden and I think the dog would probably enjoy eating it. The plan is to have a little shuttle that runs along the shelves. My only concern is that, in the unlikely event of a derailment, it would be quite the disaster as G gauge meets OO at high speed. Need to look into what could be used as a barrier around the edge.
Awesome seeing the progress on the layout, my layout has stalled. trying my hand at repairing and painting my old buildings instead, also 3d printing new homes. Can't wait for the next video, what are you using for block controls? Take care & Have fun.
Sometimes something else just takes your interested. If you're enjoying the painting and printing then do for a bit. Mainly using MERG block occupancy current sensors.
great update,as usual, concise and to the point, who needs 20 mins of drilling & vacuming..lol. have you concidered expansion gaps to compensate for seasonal temperarure changes? I look forward to future releases as you progress and will be using them as I prepare my attic for my retirement layout.
Rob, you are fitting Electrofrog points, but you don't appear to have cut through the centre rails as you did in Part 1 when you modified the points?
Hi Rob, just watched your part 2 , track and boards are looking very good , a question ?
your putting a helix in one end , what are the diameter of helix , and what sorta a angle you going to, i have restricted space and been thinking of a helix but its the sizez that worry me .
many thanks
Hi Tony, the plan calls for an oval, rather than circular, helix. 4th radius curves with straight sections on the outer line going up to give a gradient of around 1.5% (I think). I can't remember exactly. It's definitely under 2%. I tried to keep all inclines under 2%. All the testing suggests it should be fine. I have purchased the powerbase system to go under the track just in case any locos struggle.
Always Remember Measure 2 then Drill and Cut the Rails.
Hi.. Great vid.... it it possable to give an idea of price for 65 meters of track and what looks like 25 set of points??? am looking at setting up a layout my self but will have to watch the pennys somewhat..
Cheers.
Hi Dave, based on prices at www.derails.co.uk you're looking at £300 for the 65m of flex track (£99.90 per box) and approximately £375 for the points (~£15 each) depending on the type of points you want to use. So around £675 in total, not cheap unfortunately. If you're on a budget then it might be worth keeping your eyes on the second hand market as spare track often comes up.
@@LittleWicketRailway .. Wow.. yeah I think ebay will be getting hammered :) cheers for that... I had to build my shed first.. done just getting the staging done..
Good morning I commented on your wagons pic about the decals I have the two here If you want them as I have no use for them anymore and they full ?
Thank you very much! Please drop me an email littlewicketrailway@gmail.com and let me know how much you want for them 😀
@@LittleWicketRailway you can have them will email you today for address
You should invest in a Drill Doctor; you would probably never have to replace a drill bit again.
What's a Drill Doctor?? Heading off to Google...
Edit: Ohhh, like a pencil sharpener for drill bits. I've got loads of snapped drill bits I've never binned. This might come in useful.
@@LittleWicketRailway Yes, it is very handy for restoring drill bits. It also sharpens them. I've had one for years & haven't had to buy another bit, unless I didn't have the size I needed. My father was a tool & die maker; he would sharpen them on a regular grinder. I don't possess that skill so, the Drill Doctor to the rescue. Keith Appleton has a channel & in one video he bought one & did a short video about it.
Hi Rob
Hi Matt (or is it Edi? 🤔)
Hi Rob hope you're OK
Honest reality is great to see Rob. In the real world stuff happens and plans change. Sometimes it helps the thought process and provides a winning solution. Keep giving the tool tips as they make life easier vs blunt drills!😂
When is episode 3 coming
When is next layout update
Erm... I've been distracted...again. Hopefully you'll see what I've been up to this weekend if I ever get the video finished.
Hi Rob looked very professional but sharpen your drill bits lol and you did blind me at one stage lol looking forward to the rest of the build cheers Al
N
Hi rob your video's are really nice and good Love Edie xxx
Hi uncle rob is edie