Why Does Outboard Die After A Few Minutes At WOT Instead Of Immediately?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.พ. 2020
- Update: One of the other #1 causes of this is poorly set fuel floats.
Understanding why the outboard dies after a minute or two instead of immediately.
Also be sure to check that the carb floats are set correctly and bounce, open close with ease.
Outboard dies after 1 min of WOT
Outboard dies at WOT - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Also figured I'd add that I had a similar issue, but my issue was a little different. The fuel line was sucking air at some point from the tank to the motor and an air bubble would form near the fuel filter. My motor would bog down at higher RPMs after 2-3 minutes of running because the suction would be enough to pull that air bubble into the engine and basically starve the motor of fuel...
Maybe this is wrong but my mechanic said, these symptoms may also occur if the float is adjusted to close the inlet before the bowl is full. Like a toilet tank float, it needs to be set to the correct level to fill its tank/bowl. The hinge, that the float pushes against, also opens and closes the inlet valve, it is bent to allow the proper level of fuel in the bowl. If the hinge is bent down, it lifts early, so just a few drops in the bowl raises the float up too fast and closes the gas inlet needle into its seat. With the bowl only partially full, fast speeds can use all the gas faster than the float allows the bowl to fill.
So bend the hinge so it doesn't lift the needle into its seat until the float is almost at the top of its range.
Simple yet clear / w part in hand / kudos !
Does my 96 Mariner Magnum EFI have a carb? Or what is this Wiseco deal the fuel goes into after the filter?.
One thing I wanted to note is the very poor design of the standard outboard - fuel line connector. The physical plug you connect to the motor or even the gas tank is really not sealed well. I have not replaced mine, however it is something I would like to do as those old standard connectors, on the engine and gas tank end, are simply not reliable. There seem to be many quality quick connect options available online. I have no tried them yet, if anyone has any feedback or recommendations let us know.
Thanks for the helpful insight!!
Please help me I’ve taken line to 2 boat shops and they both rebuilt the carbs and this is still happening they can’t find out why. It’s a 98 evinrude 40hp
I have that exact motor 1990 what’s WTO rpm ? I’m only getting 4000
Thanks for the info. For some reason my carb is clogged somewhere. Not getting gas through it.
Thanks for the video. Very informative. I have a similar problem but different. Mine will run for full speed but as soon as I let off the throttle it dies.
I'm wondering if it could be something in the controls on the engine where it lets off the fuel too quickly. This way it would cause a sudden drop in an engine wouldn't be able to keep on running as it slows down. Let me know if you figure it out.
Did you ever figure it out?
Hi ,i have the same problem with my yamaha 40hp
Itc should I buy a new parts for it?
I would really appreciate the help
Churr
Mine does the same thing except it won't start again for a while. I get it home, put it on muffs, or take it out the day after and it fires up again. But it leaves me stranded on the water.
I wanted to ask you or anyone to see if you have a clue what could be wrong with my motor. Today I went to the swamp meet and picked up a grayish Mariner 15HP, maybe a 1995/1997. I tested it and it wouldn't start. Check and there are sparks. Traced the fuel up to the carb and it's good. Tested with started fluid inside chamber and still no start. Tested starter fluid into the carb and still no start. It acts like it wants to start but will not. Checked the fuel cut off switch and it's fine. Took carb apart and carb looks like it was recently rebuilt. Checked and air blow everything except the enrichment valve or the bottom nut, spring, ball or the passage. I put everything back and tested again. It feels like it wanted to start but still can't. I removed the gear safty lock on the pull start and attempted to start the motor in forward gear. It will start up if I pull the choke and leave in the forward gear with half to full throttle. Once I switch to neutral or leave on idel, it'll die out. What could be the issue? I'm going to order a new carb kit and give it a good cleaning myself.
Have you checked the compression? Could there be a fuel pump issue? Could timing be too slow? I have never had a pull start motor before so I can imagine its a bit more of a pain to get going if something is going on. If its running with choke up in first gear, there has got to be some sort of / lack of fuel or air somewhere. If you press the key in, to use the primer does it make a difference? Also hopefully you have the floats on the carbs correct.
Any idea why it woulonly die when you cut to say 50% throttle - so I'd be cruising at WOT for maybe 10 minutes, then dial it back to say 50% throttle - then it'd bog and die only after I'd cut the throttle to 50%? Maybe the "L" screw needs to be backed out a bit to provide more fuel at lower rpms or the "L" jets are clogged?
Possibly a float adjustment. It can be hard to get those perfect.
my yammaha 2 stroke 9.9 runs for about 15 minets then dies then if i bleed petrol bubble it starts again does this every 15 to 20 minet intervils
Recommendations on how to repair this issue or what to replace? Float? Pump?
Fuel pump, fuel lines or filter, vent on cap not working, sucking air around clamps on fuel lines
I had this problem on a unit I bought. I drained the regular fuel, added premium fuel, same problem. I added sea foam to the fuel, started it a couple of times a week til I got some free time. Problem solved.
I'm going through this with 25 hp johnson. As soon as I get to top speed it surges but if I pump the bulb she runs fine. I have run a new fuel line and fuel pump but it's still happening?
I put a new kit through the carby and checked float levels twice now so I'm stumped. All jets thoroughly cleaned and blown out, any suggestions? Maybe the new pump is actually bad?
Did you ever figure out the problem you were having with your motor?
@@mikekmalick Nah mate, was going to get someone to come take a look when winter gets here in Aus. Only really use it when it's winter up here in the tropics.
Nice video !
I have a different problem, but might be related... I had problem with my engine not starting, I cleaned the carburator, and after that it runned perfectly fine for months.
But now, I have been away for about 8 months and the outboard didn't run during that time, and now my engine is starting with difficulty, and when it runs, it's rpm is not stable and stall after a while. It will stall as well if I try to put more gas... I will have to clean the carburator again (my guess), but could it be something else !?
Make sure you're using new fuel because after 8 months it will definitely not be good. These old outboards are very sensitive because they're all made for old gas without ethanol.
@@cenkaetaya i was thinking about too, it's why i topped up the gas tank with new fuel today. Still have the same problem. It might be the old gas still inside the fuel line. I will try to remove the line and clean everything up. I just hope it's not the fuel pump...
Though few, there are still gas stations that sell old gas (without ethanol). Usually outside the City by a popular boating launch.
Edit: In the Midwest that I know
Same problem with my EFI motor. Except it doesn’t choke out or chug before it stops it just flat out dies like you hit a kill switch.
Did you figure out the problem? Same thing happening with my 2008.
@@OmarV297 no, I have had it with this motor it works great one day then like crap the next I’m over it. Got permission from the wife so we are Re-powering with a new 175 Suzuki less noise less smoke better fuel economy and hopefully more reliable.
Mine is slowing down at wide open throttle. Once I turn it down it speeds up. Can you help please
Make sure when you are at full speed the throttle plates are 90 degrees (vertical).
same here
Ok so my outboard is doing this exact thing But it doesnt die. It boggs down and I move throttle to idle and sit there for a 30secs to a min and it is happy again for anothe 5-8 min run. I have changed the primer bulb cleaned tje carbs changed the fuel pump. What else can I look at. It does it on boats internal and an external tank so it has to me engine side. It is a tohatsu M90
Possibly a poorly aligned float? Or float valve. Be sure there are no leaks, the outboard gas line connector is honestly an AWFUL connector. It is has so much potential to leak some air there as well. I myself have not replaced it yet, but I want to put in some sort of quality connector that has zero chance of leakage. Remember if the carb float bowl and the needle have an issue there could be something going on with suction. If its running full speed something is causing the fuel loss. Carbs are easy to disassemble but they can be tricky as any tiny dust or something set incorrectly can really affect performance. Id definitely recommend replacing the needle valves as they are quite cheap.
Same issue. Did you ever get to the bottom of this?
Why does my sixty horse johnson to bog down after being in reverse.
As soon as I hit full throttle after being a reverse it wants to die.
My runs, but when i go full throttle then it dies. It runs only the choke closed and it runs high rpm. It dies when i open the choke and throttle can’t lower. If i do it dies. It can’t idle.
Classic clogged main jet symptom. Clean it and you should be good.
Did any one found out how to fix it
(Fixed)
My motor runs fine for an extended period then have trouble entering high rpms after having the engine off for a while. For example, I drive, 15 min straight just fine. Stop to fish for 10 min then start the engine back up and can't enter high rpms
(Fixed:
I have found that if I choke it upon the bogging, it unfucks itself and works perfectly
It could be an initial fuel flow issue, maybe try squeezing bulb before starting? Or your timing / valves could not be 100%. Make sure the controller isnt slightly slacking, maybe you speed up too slow and its not pulling the cable 100%. When at full throttle the valves should be open 90 degrees.
exactly the same with my 90hp mercury. if i go full throttle it cuts out to where its like half throttle
@@musicgems1726 i sort of fixed it. I found that if I choke it at the moment it bogs, it unfucks itself
Hoses braking down inside
So basically you just told us the problem and not the fix, thanks
Go to 3:45 and listen. Can be any number of things that is restricting flow of gas.
It's up to YOU to find that.
Hahaha! That's what I was thinking!
get to the point
Or a gas tank not venting....