Hi Ian, the simulator has been very handy and a decade box for temperature sensors. I haven't had a diagnostic job for a while. I think it was you that recommend an ABS sensor tester, I have just got one, I'll try it out on my car. Cheers Matt
Dalibor that could be due to more than one thing, for example I had a higher idle like that after front end damage. Turned out to be the outside air temperature sensor was in the grill, it had become open circuit, showing as -40 Deg c. A new sensor fixed the outside temp to reading correctly and the idle speed also lowered to the correct speed. It must be in the ECU logic to raise the idle speed when it thinks it's cold outside. This would be hard to diagnose without me seeing the car and looking at fault codes or live data.
I have an X5 35d and it's shutting down on the highway and at idle and it cranks back up sometimes with a little difficulty. No codes are showing up on the code reader though. Could it still be an injector/ pressure sensor issue? Thanks for the input
Fantastic video Matt. I checked it just like you did and the car on tickover is only getting 0.4v so I think it's the same issue. It won't rev over 3700rpm and has fuel rail pressure fault. The previous owner changed this with a 2nd hand unit because the car wasnt running so I'm hoping I can find a decent one or stump up £220. Have you ever heard of them read low like this? Cheers Martin
Hey mate did you sort this issue out? ive got an e70 x5 and its doing exactly that. Ive changed rail, rail sensor and even injectors and still the same.
@@LJFRACING yes m8, after all the buggering around I did with it and it was the fuel filter under the car that was blocked. I changed that and haven't had any issues with it since. good luck with yours 👍👍👍
Hello, can u help me? I have e90 330d m57 engine, my sensor habe 4,96 at no start the left cable, the middle have 0,50 at no start (engine off) after start the middle cable have 1,35 is this ok?
It sounds like it has the initial prime, but not staying on after that. Maybe deliberate, possibly it it can't trust the signal or thinks it has a fuel leak it shuts the pump off
hi bugun baslangic pomoasi aldim 3 bar ve flitre yeni evet araba cok guzel basliyor ve gaza basiyorum ucuyor ama tam gaz kabul etmiyor fuel injekciyon sistem yaiyor puroblem nedir
Good job👍Smart hook also has the ability to give a voltage signal up to 5V, will it then give a higher current in mA than the Autosim Pro? did you test these devices together? Best regards
The smart hook works fine for this, I have used it as a simulator a few times, it could only be adjusted in 0.5 volt steps but it's fine to see a change on the scan tool's PID data. I gave my smart hook away so I can't show both together. Thanks for watching
Thanks for video, after car repair someone swap ground with +5V, after 3 months finally my car have a lots of power back .
Exellent job sir.well explained,steve from the uk
Thanks Steve
Great video Matt 👍
simulator excellent tool cheers mat
Just stumbled on your BMW X5 fuel sensor vid it could be the gamechanger need to get my e70 running so I can take it away and burn it
I’ll lend you some dynamite sticks that I used on mines. Works great.
has it been a nightmare? should i sell mine? lol
@@DSRDRENTERPRISES YES! It’s been a nightmare as of late. My car is a 2013 4.8 and one problem leads to another.
thanks for video
Well explained Matt ...,I also have the Autel power brobe .Very handy tool ..( And the simulator works well)....Enjoyed the Video 👍
Hi Ian, the simulator has been very handy and a decade box for temperature sensors. I haven't had a diagnostic job for a while. I think it was you that recommend an ABS sensor tester, I have just got one, I'll try it out on my car. Cheers Matt
@@mechanicmatt871 hey matte i howe problem on e60 530d the rmp ticking on 1100rmp and when i driwing tickint and on stop car ticking in p n automatic
@@mechanicmatt871 matt my e60 stick on 1100rmp i showe you video like this
@@mechanicmatt871 cane you help me advice
Dalibor that could be due to more than one thing, for example I had a higher idle like that after front end damage. Turned out to be the outside air temperature sensor was in the grill, it had become open circuit, showing as -40 Deg c. A new sensor fixed the outside temp to reading correctly and the idle speed also lowered to the correct speed. It must be in the ECU logic to raise the idle speed when it thinks it's cold outside.
This would be hard to diagnose without me seeing the car and looking at fault codes or live data.
Hola estoy con la misma falla ! Era el sensor en corto?? O otro problema?? El auto andá hasta con el sel sensor desconectado 😮
I have an X5 35d and it's shutting down on the highway and at idle and it cranks back up sometimes with a little difficulty. No codes are showing up on the code reader though. Could it still be an injector/ pressure sensor issue? Thanks for the input
Hi mechanic matt! I have same problem 399 stuck. I don’t have 4.9 v on signal when it’s unplugged. Any idea where I start looking?
Fantastic video Matt.
I checked it just like you did and the car on tickover is only getting 0.4v so I think it's the same issue. It won't rev over 3700rpm and has fuel rail pressure fault. The previous owner changed this with a 2nd hand unit because the car wasnt running so I'm hoping I can find a decent one or stump up £220. Have you ever heard of them read low like this?
Cheers Martin
Hey mate did you sort this issue out? ive got an e70 x5 and its doing exactly that. Ive changed rail, rail sensor and even injectors and still the same.
@@LJFRACING yes m8, after all the buggering around I did with it and it was the fuel filter under the car that was blocked. I changed that and haven't had any issues with it since. good luck with yours 👍👍👍
What software and adapter did you use
Hello, can u help me? I have e90 330d m57 engine, my sensor habe 4,96 at no start the left cable, the middle have 0,50 at no start (engine off) after start the middle cable have 1,35 is this ok?
Sounds ok
Niceeee
hi bu sensor bozuksa arkadaki pompa dururmu benim popma duruyor ve elektirik gelmiyor biseler pompa elektirigini kesiyor yakit basinci dusuk hatasi var
Yes it still pumps
@@mechanicmatt871 sorun su araba zor calisir ve harakete gecer ve stop pompa durdu elektirik yok
It sounds like it has the initial prime, but not staying on after that. Maybe deliberate, possibly it it can't trust the signal or thinks it has a fuel leak it shuts the pump off
@@mechanicmatt871 ok sen durust adamsin ❤❤
hi bugun baslangic pomoasi aldim 3 bar ve flitre yeni evet araba cok guzel basliyor ve gaza basiyorum ucuyor ama tam gaz kabul etmiyor fuel injekciyon sistem yaiyor puroblem nedir
Hi matt where are you based
I'm based in Bugle in Cornwall, thanks for watching
Hi matt,I have lov pressure fuel problem with my F10 .520 d.can you diagnosed and fixed for me?Do you have contact number?
Good job👍Smart hook also has the ability to give a voltage signal up to 5V, will it then give a higher current in mA than the Autosim Pro? did you test these devices together?
Best regards
The smart hook works fine for this, I have used it as a simulator a few times, it could only be adjusted in 0.5 volt steps but it's fine to see a change on the scan tool's PID data.
I gave my smart hook away so I can't show both together. Thanks for watching
@@mechanicmatt871 i how problem with m57 bmw disel 3.0d losing gase and rmp flucking newer figurate whot wos it