Great review. I am planning a mod using a Seiko 5 dial from a 4 o'clock crown and putting it into an NH36 3 o'clock crown, so I know I will need to mod at least one of the feet. Great timing seeing this review - thank you🙏
Hi Brian, late to this vid sorry, but it's helping my endeavour to replace broken dial feet; thank you. I'm also hoping to rehouse some old manual movements in the future. I'm wondering, regarding solder; to what extent do I need to worry about the heat affecting the surface of a vintage dial, especially when first tinning the underside? I realise every situation will be unique, but have you encountered problems with this?
hey there, and sorry for my late reply! 😅You do have to be careful about heat...the metal is only about 0.4mm thick and whatever is on the other side is very susceptible to any heat applied on the reverse.
I have this same tool, and while the tool itself seems fine, I can't seem to find much advice on a couple of much stickier problems. First, what is the best way to mark the spot in which you need to mill the dial foot hole? I have pondered applying some sort of ink onto the flat part of the dial foot, inserting it into the main plate hole, and fitting the dial on top to make a mark where the dial foot comes into contact with the dial. However, I'm unsure how precise I can be, and this sort of thing needs to be perfect. My other issue is, what do you do when the dial you're working with isn't entirely flat? Many vintage dials are somewhat concave on the side that faces the movement, and my milling tool does not seem to enjoy starting its milling job when the bit is not perfectly perpendicular to the surface it's milling. As such, it wants to "walk around" and that just makes a mess.
I typically make a template to mark the locations. Works fine for me generally. I show that in this video: th-cam.com/video/GUIT8CHDibI/w-d-xo.html For common movements sometimes I expend the effort to model and 3d print a template. As for concave dials, I haven't tried the tool on one before, so I can't speak to it based on experience, but what I would probably do is create and print a base that matched the curve so it would stay stable while milling.
I know you can buy replacements, but I haven't tried to take the blade out yet. So, I'm not sure if it's friction fit, screwed down, or adhesive. Did you figure it out yet?
A few ways. 1. Find the spec sheet for a given movement, which notes the measurements to everything, including the dial feet locations and mark those on the dial back. 2. Get a dial that has feet meant to fit the given movement and use it to help mark the feet locations on the new dial. 3. fit the dial to the center of the movement and mark the locations, or measure to the feet holes on the back of the movement.
I’m assuming you mean if it starts to show on the other side? I’ve not had that problem, just doing go to deep or push too hard when milling. You don’t have to apply to much pressure. Cuts like butter.
I've noticed this tool is basically identical to a particular hand setting tool I'm sure you're familiar with. I wonder if those tips could be available to use with this one somehow?
i regret by using superglue as the adhesive. it couldnt removed and later destroyed my genuine dial. but i still trying to make new dial fit on my vintage orient crystal.
@@WatchComplications np! Thank you for the videos. Im trying to make some enamel dials and its quite tricky to get everything right regarding thickness.
Great review. I am planning a mod using a Seiko 5 dial from a 4 o'clock crown and putting it into an NH36 3 o'clock crown, so I know I will need to mod at least one of the feet. Great timing seeing this review - thank you🙏
yup, common use case for needing to adjust dial feet. good luck!
Hi Brian, late to this vid sorry, but it's helping my endeavour to replace broken dial feet; thank you. I'm also hoping to rehouse some old manual movements in the future.
I'm wondering, regarding solder; to what extent do I need to worry about the heat affecting the surface of a vintage dial, especially when first tinning the underside? I realise every situation will be unique, but have you encountered problems with this?
hey there, and sorry for my late reply! 😅You do have to be careful about heat...the metal is only about 0.4mm thick and whatever is on the other side is very susceptible to any heat applied on the reverse.
Just bought your hat! Thank you! For all you do!!!
thanks so much! that’s awesome :)
Thanks for the nice review Brian, I really need this milling tool too!
thanks!
I have this same tool, and while the tool itself seems fine, I can't seem to find much advice on a couple of much stickier problems. First, what is the best way to mark the spot in which you need to mill the dial foot hole? I have pondered applying some sort of ink onto the flat part of the dial foot, inserting it into the main plate hole, and fitting the dial on top to make a mark where the dial foot comes into contact with the dial. However, I'm unsure how precise I can be, and this sort of thing needs to be perfect. My other issue is, what do you do when the dial you're working with isn't entirely flat? Many vintage dials are somewhat concave on the side that faces the movement, and my milling tool does not seem to enjoy starting its milling job when the bit is not perfectly perpendicular to the surface it's milling. As such, it wants to "walk around" and that just makes a mess.
I typically make a template to mark the locations. Works fine for me generally. I show that in this video: th-cam.com/video/GUIT8CHDibI/w-d-xo.html For common movements sometimes I expend the effort to model and 3d print a template. As for concave dials, I haven't tried the tool on one before, so I can't speak to it based on experience, but what I would probably do is create and print a base that matched the curve so it would stay stable while milling.
Thanks. Do you think the cutter could be swapped out for a jewel cutter?
To be honest I'm not particularly familiar with jewel cutters. My guess is it would come down to design of the cutter.
@@WatchComplications yes, thanks!
Hi sir how do I remove the milling blade from the tool
I know you can buy replacements, but I haven't tried to take the blade out yet. So, I'm not sure if it's friction fit, screwed down, or adhesive. Did you figure it out yet?
I have blank dials that I need to add feet to. How do I know where to mill/glue the feet? I have a NH 35 and ETA 2824 movements.
A few ways. 1. Find the spec sheet for a given movement, which notes the measurements to everything, including the dial feet locations and mark those on the dial back. 2. Get a dial that has feet meant to fit the given movement and use it to help mark the feet locations on the new dial. 3. fit the dial to the center of the movement and mark the locations, or measure to the feet holes on the back of the movement.
Any problems with dimpling?
I’m assuming you mean if it starts to show on the other side? I’ve not had that problem, just doing go to deep or push too hard when milling. You don’t have to apply to much pressure. Cuts like butter.
@@WatchComplications Correct thanks for replying not all channels reply so kudos to you.
I always try to respond when possible :) Thanks for watching.
I’m thinking thy don’t want the cutter going all the way down because there would be a risk of chipping if it got slammed down into the base.
perhaps...
I've noticed this tool is basically identical to a particular hand setting tool I'm sure you're familiar with. I wonder if those tips could be available to use with this one somehow?
Yeah I have the hand setting tool as well. The milling tip might very well fit in that, haven't tested it though...good idea to try.
It would be nice if you gave us a demo video
In the video description, I link to a video in my Silly Walks series where I show me going through the process as part of that build.
i regret by using superglue as the adhesive. it couldnt removed and later destroyed my genuine dial. but i still trying to make new dial fit on my vintage orient crystal.
yeah, never use superglue as an adhesive of any kind in a watch! GS hypo cement is your friend.
those blade are carbide. you can make it this tool from hands installer.
.04 mm is like a human hair, you probably mean 0.4 mm right
oh yeah, wups, said it wrong in the vid. Dials are typically 0.4mm, the other common size is 0.8mm. Thanks for spotting that!
@@WatchComplications np! Thank you for the videos. Im trying to make some enamel dials and its quite tricky to get everything right regarding thickness.
@@eduardwalhout1740 yeah enamel dials are a bit thicker, closer to 1mm I think. I'll have to look when I get home from a trip at a few of mine.
Hello. I need dial feet for 9t33 but they are 0.7mm. How to weld them?
use epoxy
@@WatchComplications i used superglue but it gets into the movement.
never use superglue with any parts inside a watch.