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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 มี.ค. 2023
- Discover how to design a custom 3D printed electrical enclosure in our latest Beginners Guide to Designing 3D Printed Parts for Mass Production 3D Printing. We cover the key features and design considerations for creating a 3D printable electronics enclosure that's both custom-fitted and ESD safe. Learn how to create standoffs, add chamfers, and optimize your design for print orientation to ensure a high-quality results and manufacturability. Plus, we share tips on incorporating ribs and custom insets for added support and durability.
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🏭 High-Volume 3D Printing: Scalability Meets Flexibility
Slant 3D's Large-Scale 3D Print Farms utilize 1000's of FDM 3D printers working 24/7 to offer limitless scalability and unparalleled flexibility. Whether it's 100 or 100,000 parts, our system can handle it reliably, while still allowing for real-time design updates, ensuring products evolve with the times. This adaptability is key in today's fast-paced world.
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Embrace a system that drastically reduces carbon emissions by eliminating carbon-intensive steps in the supply chain, such as global shipping and warehousing. Our approach minimizes this footprint, offering a more sustainable manufacturing option.
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I typically use the inset style for my designs but I don't see any need to print it in the 45 degree orientation. If the part/enclosure is allowed to cool on the bed it just pops off on its own, and the rammer doesn't have any issues pushing it. If it's a complaint about the bed surface leaving a texture on the print, its often a non-issue for me. Sometimes the textured PEI surface I use for PETG is ideal for high friction applications and some customers even love it. I definitely want to try and see if it's better
I usually design for injection molding and then print in MJF or SLA. For me, the 3D print is a low volume bridge where I can make revisions batch to batch as I work towards justifying having an injection molding tool made.
Man, this channel is all value no BS. I appreciate it
Thanks. Really glad you like it.
Thanks for this video, it was "enlightening".
I've always assumed that a 3d shape could only be printed on one side and doing it like you shown it would never be stable... but it worked!
Using the chamfer as you described solved several problems of excessive adhesion to my old printer plate.
As always I find myself impressed at your boldness to use that kind of orientation. I might consider it on my core XY printers where only the gantry is moving but I'd be too scared to attempt it often on my bed slinger printers. The increasing wobble as Z increases would almost certainly cause the part to detach from the bed prematurely.
That is why Bed slingers are garbage
@@slant3d Accurate and agree 100% but they're cheap and so people keep buying them. I have 3 from my earlier production days and they will be my last 3. Can't believe Prusa released the mk4 as another mk3++ and still demand over $1000 for it... Who would buy it at that price when you could build a voron or buy a bambu for that price.
@@connorcleveland9166 I got into 3d printing 9 months ago with a Prusa mk3, and I was thinking about building a voron at some point. The thing is: my hobby is 3d printing, not building 3d printers, so a mk4 kit has some appeal to me. I am willing (and able) to pay a premium for some company sourcing all necessary parts, printing a manual and then put them in a box and ship them to me. And: I fully understand that this is kind of a niche, people that do this for a living will think differently.
@@slant3d lol yup
@@connorcleveland9166 Go watch TheNextLayer for a rationale on the mk4. Decent video and I think he sort of hits it as the Apple level reliability and set-and-forget.
There are some clearly brilliant nuggets, of hard earned, experiential knowledge there. Thank you for sharing such great stuff. I see the value in your videos in more than one way.
you are adding a ton of value man, i was convinced that 3d printing wasnt competition to injection moulding, im gaining a lot of knowledge on your channel, kudos and keep it up!
Great to hear!
All comes down to build volume. the difference between 1000 and 20,000+ count runs. dies can be really expensive but they crank out huge numbers and in that scenario it kinda does leave 3d printing in the dust.
This is exactly the kind of content I'm looking for, and may be the best video I've seen on the topic. I'll be deep diving on your channel. Thanks!
Thanks
I really like your fusion instructional videos. The way you explain your process and the reason why is very enjoyable to watch. Cheers mate 👍🇦🇺😊
Glad you like them!
Interesting video. Got me thinking. Thanks
So good, thank you!
damn that was awsome thank you for this
Slant 3D - what do you do with the Top / Lid? Thanks for you production perspective.
Helpful advice. Thanks.
You bet!
@3:11 you can get rid of those zits in the print, by selecting "z seam alignment : sharpest corner"
Very valuable information, this really gets you to rethink usual ways to desing for additive! PS. Are you Noel from ”Noel’s retro lab”, your voice just sound very similar? :)
Great design info.
Can we see a time lapse with multiple parts being printedat the same time?
Very good tips, especially regarding the standoffs. I'm not completly convinced that the printing orientation makes sense. Printing the part on one side is estimated to take 4 hours and 46 minutes (see 8:48), printing on the edge around 7 hours...
That change in print time is due to support that should not be activated when it is printed diagonally. The diagonal should need no support at all. But it was left turned on in the demo. Our mistake.
@@slant3d Ah, I see, that makes sense. Thanks for the clarifcation!
Thanks for the video, informative as always. I liked the chamfers on the standoffs, good idea.
I understand wanting to print vertically / diagonally to improve the ability for parts to be ejected automatically, when printing in a farm. Doesn't this add a lot of time to individual prints though? For your chamfered design towards the end, it seems like the print time went from 4hrs 12min (flat on the bed) to 6hrs 48min when printed upright. I've seen similar slowdowns when printing designs on my own printer.
Turning the box on a 45-degree angle was just brilliant!
There is a saying that says:
"Only the genius sees the obvious!" 🤓
Glad you like it
Genius until you don't have enough adhesion to the base plate causing it to break off at higher levels or with the movement of the Print bed...
Good Luck trying to print it reliably on the orientation.
@@marcosmoura911 I agree with you that this printing orientation would not work on a bed slinger. However, bed slinger is not the type of printer that should be used in mass production. This principle of printing orientation is meant to be adopted on a CoreXY printer.
The Slant 3D channel shares principles and concepts they have adopted in their large production 3D printing facilities. So, I stand by what I said that the institutional knowledge being shared by Slant 3D is not only brilliant but priceless!
@@MakerMindset "however and ironically" to what you said most of the print farms use bedslingers.
@@marcosmoura911, believe what you will. I've got no time for this. God bless you!
I'm new so don't mind me asking but you say printing it lying down flat increases cost. How? I know you did mention it but it kinda didn't make sense. I've seen your other video you recommend in this and I thought that was brilliant. I just didn't get the oritentation part so well. Is it for strength?
Think about how the layer lines are oriented for the standoffs if the part lies on its back: only layer adhesion prevents the standoff from snapping off. Printing on the back also will have potential issues with warping (brims or helper disks add postprocessing steps), plus it occupies more bed space meaning that you can print less parts per batch before you need to empty the bed again.
IDK if I could get a away with an orientation like this on my bed slinger, but I also don't have to do mass production.
Can you print with materials that will satisfy fire and IP rating requirements? 3D printing electrical boxes opens up some cool possibilities.
Yes. Fire Safe, UL Rated. ESD Safe, etc etc. All printable. Most mass producable.
@@slant3d Would it be possible to achieve IP68 certification with any of the materials?
Sure. With most of them. But it would also depend on the design
@@slant3d what specific materials/filaments would you use to achieve this? (And is it something that will be selectable through your upcoming API for us to order through Slant3D?)
Why do you guys use an older version of cura?
The orientation doesnt make sense to me. Here is why:
1. If I wanted a surface to look different, it woult be the bottom surface
2. You have to spend more time in making the enclosure compatible with the printing orientation in CAD (less freedom and more time)
3. Because of the increased z-height the printer is more likely to mess something up
4. Sometimes you don't want to chamfer the edges
5. More overhangs could affect printing quality (even at 45°)
6. Less bed adhesion makes the print fail easier
7. Overall harder and riskier to print / not as reliable
8. More material is needed
9. Printing time is less when printing with the bottom down, as the walls can be printed continuously (with z-seam shortest)
Also it is an enclosure for a PCB. The stress experienced by the standoffs are minimal and not worth considering (as much) in most cases. Having the enclosure itself be more sturdy is more important and printing it on the side makes it easier to break in half. I am a fan of efficiant design, using less material. I think with more of the part being produced it could affect cost.
The only real benefit to printing in the vertical orientation is that you can get more on the bed at once, but I agree with just printing it flat and calling it a day.
1. This method reduces the surface area that appears different. If it was the bottom it would be ~30% of area that is "other" this puts it below 5%
2. Design is always where more time should be spent. More problems are solved in design than in production
3. Don't use a bedslinger. They are a silly architecture and should never be used for mass production. This is a non-issue for a non-bedslinger
4. Sometimes you do. For industrial applications appearance is a non issue. But design for your product. This is how you can design for the process.
5. The risk of failure from a 45 degree overhang is less than the risk from a warped or deformed first layer.
6. Again, don't use bedslingers. Or allow a professional to operate their machine.
7. Statistically incorrect fromt the 100's of thousands of parts we have produced in one of the largest print farms on the planet.
8. Incorrect. Exact same material. Lower print time due to less first layer prep
9. Refer to previous
10. The standoffs experience stress during assembly when a technician in pressing in a screw.
Design for the process.
You can make 3D Printed parts stronger by making them thicker. But adding thickness does not add significant material because 3D Printing has the super power of creating internal structures that act as trusses. While having the appearance of a solid enclosed part.
Why are you using an ancient version of Cura at 8:50?
In an production environment you use what works not what's newest. If the new version broke anything for a hobbyist sure no problem it doesn't cost you anything but in a production environment down time = financial losses.
Will that successfully print in your farm?
I’ve never printed something successfully with that ratio of surface area touching the build plate, with that much above it, without a large brim, or support.
Same here. I don’t understand how the orientation would impact the cost either.
@@lawrencemanning orientation can affect strength a lot. But time only a little bit. Prints like this example should print faster on the flat surface as the longer lines will print faster than many quick accelerations and decelerations. However if a print needs support anywhere it will definitely increase time and cost.
Bed slingers are the wrong machine for this reason. They are not viable for mass production.
@@slant3d So this will print without support in this orientation on your machines ?
No support. No overhang at 45 degrees should need support
Were your chamfers printed using non-planar slicing at 2:24? That doesn't look like normal printing.
Nope. Standard slicing throughout
@@slant3d I see now. I think it was just the lighting and lines that looked odd for me. Thanks!
double the time and used filament...i mean if you absolutely need to print for ejection, then fair enough, but I don't know why the majority of people would want to do it this way...
There’s no extra filament used, the 45 degree overhangs will print fine without support. Yes, taller parts will print slower, but you can fit multiples on the bed if you need a larger quantity.
I think I will not be the only person here that actually has a FDM printer that the orientation of the part suggested is not recommended. Every FDM printer would print the enclosure flat with the base on the heated bed so that no support material is required and a better surface finish on the part edges by keeping the printer head in a single X Y motion as much as possible. It also avoids overhangs. If you have holes in the side of the enclosure using support is easier to remove that having all that support on the external edges of the enclosure causing surface defects ....
Difference between prototyping and production
2:20: You might wanna dry your filament and reduce retraction length because too much retraction pull air within the nozzle and it comes out as bubble leaving those spots on the print.
Why do you want as less as material touching the buildplate? Is the quality of the face touching the plate so much worse than other faces?
It will mimic the bed surface. If that's glass you will have a sheen, if its a CD it will have a holographic effect, if its textured it will reflect that texture. The other faces will not.
"talk to your applications engineer" - dude that's me!
Doesn't really matter when Autodesk's pricing keeps most people out of the market.
Hi. Very good explanation thanks. One doubt, i did a box with a enclosure lid. That box and the lid has 1,6mm of wall per space reasons. The lid mount/fits right into the box. The problem is when i mount the lid at the box, the box and lid bend. The box and lid only bend after the assembly. Do you have some suggestion ?