Hello NuSensei ! I just want to thank you for ALL your great videos and the thought and time and effort you have put in to doing them. I am an older (60+ yrs) beginner archer here in the Northeast USA just starting to put together my first Olympic style Recurve set-up for club/regional competition after getting my orientation and "sealegs" using a basic Samick setup. Your technique and equipment videos AND your videos about your own struggles and triumphs in training and competition are INVALUABLE for me and it seems for MANY others. Keep up the great work and any technique and training advice will be absorbed by all of us like sponges !! Wishing you BEST SUCCESS and HAPPINESS in your future in ALL your pursuits !!!!
You should probably also mention how to set the limbs after you string the bow. It might be helpful to people who are new to archery. When I first started out I didn't know about it either until my friend explained it to me. Great vids man :D
Can you do a video fo how to adjust a riser and its limbs if there are no pocket adjustment, every adjustment is done in the cam, naimly the SF premium riser is the one I have....... and I just can not find a video about adjusting that kind of riser.....
I don't have that riser, so I can't demonstrate. The risers have asymmetric cam (i.e. instead of being round, it's an egg-shape). But loosing the nuts on the cam, you can rotate it so that the limb goes in at a different angle.
I noticed that you have a nice bag to keep everything in, but could never figure out what it was. It was always obscured or out of frame. It looks like it's fairly inconspicuous, instead of being a billboard that says 'you can sell whatever is in here for a lot of money' like I see with most other packs for recurves. Basically, what is that bag, and can everything fit in there, including the long stabilizer and quiver?
I have a sure lol contender sight. I can hardly see thru the sight. Other archers have said bust that red dot out of there, It's more of a hindrance. I also noted three sides have black plastic and the third side is open. Which side goes up? Are you trying to shade the pin with the blackl plastic sides to the pin or keep it open to collect light? I mean which way does it go? It's not with the instructions.
I picked up almost the same rigg as you. Same limbs, and riser. Same carbon clicker bur a different stabilizer. I got the Bee stinger. I' be yet to see anyone assemble their s the way I have. I've attached the main stab to the front bottom, and the split V for the side rods along with the wrist strap in the thread well above it. Am I screwing that up? The weights now...what determines weather you use three ,four five two. One on left two on right.... Nobody seems to have an answer for that. I usually hear the code words for I haven't got a clue ( it a personal preference) ... Mike
Choice of weight depends on what feels more comfortable to you. More weight means more stability, but it also makes it bow heavier, and if your arm gets shaky holding that weight (bearing in mind that fatigue will also be a factor), then it's not worth putting on extra weights. Hence, personal preference. I've seen some people use unorthodox stabiliser setups, but never yours. The trend these days is the standard V-bar -> long rod setup, while in the past the top and bottom bushings were used more often. Putting the long rod on the bottom puts the centre of balance much lower and makes the bow bottom-heavy. I'd like to know why you chose to do that.
Target archers use the clicker to help with consistent release. The clicker is set to a specific draw length, and makes a sound when you pull the arrow through.
Sorry for the newb question but why do you need an extender for the stabilizer set up? Can you not just screw it directly into the riser? Does it move the overall weight forward or something.
So you remove the plunger button every time? I leave it on atm, doesn't seem as a big deal in my Legend Archery Streamline Backpack with softpocket for the riser. What do you think?
. In need of some advice. Im working on building up a target recurve. 25" riser with wns long limbs. Going for 42lbs for a 68" amo once adjusted. What would be a good shaft spine recommendation for my setup?
I have a SF Axiom L+, and I have a question. The Weight / Tiller Bolt, that you screw in on the limbs. Is this supposed to be very tight? I can't get the upper bolt as tight as I think it should be, and I can pull the limb out even with it screwed down as tight as it can be. Is this an issue? Or when I string the bow will the force of the string pulling on the limbs keep them from falling / being pulled out of the riser?
28" long rod. Archery competitions require at least arrows, and often people will have 8-10 arrows in their quiver. I recommend a full set of 12. You'll find that you'll damage some over time and you'll end up with 8-10 arrows anyway.
I will cover this in a specific video soon. Cost isn't very important. More expensive rests have more microadjustment for REALLY fine tuning, but function the same as a $5 rest.
You're pretty much set to slide them in and string the bow. Adjustment is only needed for tuning, but most bows are ready to shoot out of the box and you only need to do the adjustments when you begin the fine-tuning process (i.e. when you see that something isn't quite right with arrow flight).
I shoot at a set distance and adjust my sight so that I hit where I want it to. I record the sight marking, then walk back to the next distance and repeat. I would therefore have sight settings for all the target distances.
NUSensei Cool thanks. I'm thinking for building up my equipment over time and my price range would be around £450-750 British pounds for all the equipments. Would you suggest a mid range riser and cheapest-mid priced limbs? I'm going to get my form right before getting the rest, so i going to spend around £250-400 initially. What do you think? I've got a £75 beginner/intermediate bow at the moment.
It's a wise investment, and many people take that option. It's worth mentioning that if you intend to shoot Olympic-style, it may be worth getting all the components sooner rather than later, as technique can vary from barebow shooting.
Cringed a bit when you I saw you place all your equipment on the concrete D: I'm still waiting for my Plat Hi-mod side rods to come in... 3 months and counting.
+NUSensei as you say, to dis-assemble watch video backwards! Seriously tho, is it normal practice to take out the plunger to pack away riser at the end of a session ?
I don't use one. In fact, most recurve archers these days don't make use of one. I've only seen one put on because the archer was having a very hard time finding their anchor point references.
NUSensei Odd. At the range I go to, the bow preference amongst the more 'serious' archers is definitely compound. So maybe I don't have the most accurate sample size I guess... However, most of the other Olympic recurve shooters I run into use one. I'm considering switching mine to the flattened type. I feel like it's good to have one because it served as an extra reference point.
Courtney Costantino It might be a trend in your area, or perhaps because they're getting their advice from the same coach or shop. It used to be the "thing" to have a decade ago, but most top-level archers don't use one. Having an extra reference point isn't necessarily desirable if you already have a reliable set - the index finger tucked under the jaw, the string across the tip of the nose and along the lips is enough for most. Adding a kisser button may require changing technique and positioning. If it already works, there's no need to do that. That said, if you've trained with a kisser from the beginning, there's also nothing wrong with that.
Eh I don't think the same coach/shop is the reason. I train under the guy who runs the shop. A few others are young JOAD kids. Another trains there with a coach from a nearby college club. We all just so happen to be at the same range. In terms of most top archers not using one, that's hard to deny. The only person I can remember using one offhand is Mike Frangilli from Italy. Then again, his entire style is really odd so...
Hello NuSensei ! I just want to thank you for ALL your great videos and the thought and time and effort you have put in to doing them. I am an older (60+ yrs) beginner archer here in the Northeast USA just starting to put together my first Olympic style Recurve set-up for club/regional competition after getting my orientation and "sealegs" using a basic Samick setup. Your technique and equipment videos AND your videos about your own struggles and triumphs in training and competition are INVALUABLE for me and it seems for MANY others. Keep up the great work and any technique and training advice will be absorbed by all of us like sponges !! Wishing you BEST SUCCESS and HAPPINESS in your future in ALL your pursuits !!!!
I liked the end comment "if you want to know how to disassemble a bow, watch this video backwards" Haha! Gold!
I've never felt so tall before. I'm on TOP OF THE WORLD!!!
You should probably also mention how to set the limbs after you string the bow. It might be helpful to people who are new to archery. When I first started out I didn't know about it either until my friend explained it to me. Great vids man :D
Excellent video as always. Getting my new recurve bow in a few days so all this information is extremely helpful.
Great information, but it was hard watching all that expensive gear laying on the concrete!
good info the only thing camera makes me dizzy.
Can you do a video fo how to adjust a riser and its limbs if there are no pocket adjustment, every adjustment is done in the cam, naimly the SF premium riser is the one I have....... and I just can not find a video about adjusting that kind of riser.....
I don't have that riser, so I can't demonstrate. The risers have asymmetric cam (i.e. instead of being round, it's an egg-shape). But loosing the nuts on the cam, you can rotate it so that the limb goes in at a different angle.
I noticed that you have a nice bag to keep everything in, but could never figure out what it was. It was always obscured or out of frame. It looks like it's fairly inconspicuous, instead of being a billboard that says 'you can sell whatever is in here for a lot of money' like I see with most other packs for recurves.
Basically, what is that bag, and can everything fit in there, including the long stabilizer and quiver?
It's a Cartel Pro Gold 702 bow case. It's designed to fit in all the components.
I have a sure lol contender sight. I can hardly see thru the sight. Other archers have said bust that red dot out of there, It's more of a hindrance. I also noted three sides have black plastic and the third side is open. Which side goes up? Are you trying to shade the pin with the blackl plastic sides to the pin or keep it open to collect light? I mean which way does it go? It's not with the instructions.
I picked up almost the same rigg as you. Same limbs, and riser. Same carbon clicker bur a different stabilizer. I got the Bee stinger. I' be yet to see anyone assemble their s the way I have. I've attached the main stab to the front bottom, and the split V for the side rods along with the wrist strap in the thread well above it. Am I screwing that up? The weights now...what determines weather you use three ,four five two. One on left two on right.... Nobody seems to have an answer for that. I usually hear the code words for I haven't got a clue ( it a personal preference) ...
Mike
Choice of weight depends on what feels more comfortable to you. More weight means more stability, but it also makes it bow heavier, and if your arm gets shaky holding that weight (bearing in mind that fatigue will also be a factor), then it's not worth putting on extra weights. Hence, personal preference.
I've seen some people use unorthodox stabiliser setups, but never yours. The trend these days is the standard V-bar -> long rod setup, while in the past the top and bottom bushings were used more often. Putting the long rod on the bottom puts the centre of balance much lower and makes the bow bottom-heavy. I'd like to know why you chose to do that.
NuSensei, do you have video explaining about the T - Gauge?
Hi i was wondering if you could tell me what the clicker does because i just bought my first olympic bow but i didnt buy a clicker
Good video, but I was disappointed you didn't show how to install a plunger and rest.
Brilliant. Love ur vids. What's the clicker you mention?
Target archers use the clicker to help with consistent release. The clicker is set to a specific draw length, and makes a sound when you pull the arrow through.
Sorry for the newb question but why do you need an extender for the stabilizer set up? Can you not just screw it directly into the riser? Does it move the overall weight forward or something.
You're exactly right. The extender brings the weight further forward. You can otherwise screw the long rod or the v-bar directly onto the riser.
The bow though.... Goals
sorry I didn't hear it good enough, what was the first part you said?
great setup! Thanks for the videos :D
So you remove the plunger button every time? I leave it on atm, doesn't seem as a big deal in my Legend Archery Streamline Backpack with softpocket for the riser. What do you think?
I usually leave mine on. It's a bit too tight to remove by hand and I'm a little lazy.
Why are my bow limbs moving a little from side to side when I attach them to the riser?
th-cam.com/video/m7FNGVlKgws/w-d-xo.html
please tell me from where to buy in india
Nice Amigo.
. In need of some advice. Im working on building up a target recurve. 25" riser with wns long limbs. Going for 42lbs for a 68" amo once adjusted. What would be a good shaft spine recommendation for my setup?
A 25" Riser with Long limbs will give you a 70" bow.
@@NUSensei ok i was just going off the labels on the back of the limbs. Also what spine would you reccomend for it for that draw weight?
Since you know your draw length and draw weight, you should consult the arrow charts.
I have a SF Axiom L+, and I have a question. The Weight / Tiller Bolt, that you screw in on the limbs. Is this supposed to be very tight? I can't get the upper bolt as tight as I think it should be, and I can pull the limb out even with it screwed down as tight as it can be. Is this an issue? Or when I string the bow will the force of the string pulling on the limbs keep them from falling / being pulled out of the riser?
The tiller bolts adjust the draw weight. They're not meant to keep the limbs on place. When strung, the limbs will stay in place.
It's a hassle to clean up though takes me 10 min to set my bow up
how many inches for ur long rod? and how many arrows do you recommend to have in a quiver at all times for competition?
28" long rod. Archery competitions require at least arrows, and often people will have 8-10 arrows in their quiver. I recommend a full set of 12. You'll find that you'll damage some over time and you'll end up with 8-10 arrows anyway.
How many arrows are in your quiver?????????
oh and angled vs straight for v-bar? whats the difference
It's mostly a matter of preference. Some people like the balance and feel of the weight being slightly forward on the angled v-bar.
Thank you for makeing This video it help me a lot
Very helpful. Thank you.
Dr.S.C.Bose, Kolkata
Is the arrow rest really matters on how much it costed and what actually the function of it? (NEWBIES :))
I will cover this in a specific video soon. Cost isn't very important. More expensive rests have more microadjustment for REALLY fine tuning, but function the same as a $5 rest.
So to speak, are ILFs plug and play? I'm just starting and I reckon these things need adjustments or idk. Please enlighten :)
You're pretty much set to slide them in and string the bow. Adjustment is only needed for tuning, but most bows are ready to shoot out of the box and you only need to do the adjustments when you begin the fine-tuning process (i.e. when you see that something isn't quite right with arrow flight).
what is the total price of your set up?
Bow on the toe! Bow on the TOE! Not pivoting on the concrete.
What pound bow is that? Mine is 60 lb and I'm having a hell of a time stringing it lmao
+Jakob Sime 40#
how do you sight in your bow?
I shoot at a set distance and adjust my sight so that I hit where I want it to. I record the sight marking, then walk back to the next distance and repeat. I would therefore have sight settings for all the target distances.
I didn't know you are Vietnamese-Australian. Now I do. I live in San Jose,CA USA. You know, Little Saigon and all.
I've got some family in San Jose. I've been there once.
NUSensei next time you come, let me know. i can take you to the locals ranges here.
How much did you spend on this set up?
All up, it's over AU$2000.
NUSensei Cool thanks. I'm thinking for building up my equipment over time and my price range would be around £450-750 British pounds for all the equipments. Would you suggest a mid range riser and cheapest-mid priced limbs? I'm going to get my form right before getting the rest, so i going to spend around £250-400 initially. What do you think? I've got a £75 beginner/intermediate bow at the moment.
It's a wise investment, and many people take that option. It's worth mentioning that if you intend to shoot Olympic-style, it may be worth getting all the components sooner rather than later, as technique can vary from barebow shooting.
Cringed a bit when you I saw you place all your equipment on the concrete D: I'm still waiting for my Plat Hi-mod side rods to come in... 3 months and counting.
+NUSensei as you say, to dis-assemble watch video backwards! Seriously tho, is it normal practice to take out the plunger to pack away riser at the end of a session ?
wat bow is dat?
win & win inno cxt
Seeing all those things on concrete is painful...
the audio lol
Interesting view, but the muffled audio was always on my mind
your setup is too much $$$$ :'(
No kisser bead?
I don't use one. In fact, most recurve archers these days don't make use of one. I've only seen one put on because the archer was having a very hard time finding their anchor point references.
NUSensei
Odd. At the range I go to, the bow preference amongst the more 'serious' archers is definitely compound. So maybe I don't have the most accurate sample size I guess... However, most of the other Olympic recurve shooters I run into use one. I'm considering switching mine to the flattened type. I feel like it's good to have one because it served as an extra reference point.
Courtney Costantino
It might be a trend in your area, or perhaps because they're getting their advice from the same coach or shop. It used to be the "thing" to have a decade ago, but most top-level archers don't use one. Having an extra reference point isn't necessarily desirable if you already have a reliable set - the index finger tucked under the jaw, the string across the tip of the nose and along the lips is enough for most. Adding a kisser button may require changing technique and positioning. If it already works, there's no need to do that. That said, if you've trained with a kisser from the beginning, there's also nothing wrong with that.
Eh I don't think the same coach/shop is the reason. I train under the guy who runs the shop. A few others are young JOAD kids. Another trains there with a coach from a nearby college club. We all just so happen to be at the same range. In terms of most top archers not using one, that's hard to deny. The only person I can remember using one offhand is Mike Frangilli from Italy. Then again, his entire style is really odd so...
Dam auto correct, sorry
Watch it backwards!?! LOL!!! :-D
Your GoPro style is kinda making me motion sick.
Sorry about that. Didn't realise I moved my head so much while I talk.
NUSensei There's an option in some video editing software that can alleviate the issue
NUSensei Please don't use this camera setup again mate, I'm close to getting nauseous. Hate shaky cam.
go pro sucks just look a the curved sides
+Ausintune The curved sides are caused by having a wide angle lens. Zooming in would fix it but we wouldn't be able to see as much.
ugh huh....
go pro is not 4K doe
+Ausintune the most expensive go pro is 4k
still sony has a 4K camera that better quality then best gopro but cheaper