Just wanted to say I really appreciate your channel. I am just getting into the sport and I have an experienced archer/coach who is helping me build a customized Olympic setup. Your videos have made it so I don't have to hit him up every time I have a question about unfamiliar gear. More importantly, your approach is informative, not insistent. It's educational without having to wade through forums that do more bickering about their preferences than they do informing folks of how to discern between gear for themselves. Much thanks.
I agree with you, actually. I use "stable" in a very broad sense that includes vibration and dampening, and by extension how well you can fine-tune balance. But otherwise, I push that cheap stabilisers are just as good and there's no real need for big spending on stabilisers. I only bought the Doinkers as a bit of a reward for myself :)
I like this video a lot. I just got a Doinker Platinum set, 30" with side 12". I cannot wait to try it when my new target bow, that I ordered last week, Obsession Pheonix XL, comes in. Thanks for the plain talk. You give a lot of info in a short time.
Hey NUSensei. I have watched over 15video's so far from you and i really like that you did add some jokes this time. Other than that keep the tips coming ;)
Firstly, I don't use aluminum arrows, so I can't demonstrate. Secondly, while it's possible to do some crude repair by hand, you can find a special tool for it. Thirdly, aluminium arrows aren't really worth that much to repair. May as well get new ones, or get carbon arrows.
I was thinking about that actually, but they're not red :P I'm still using my extension, but once I find another one to replace my cheapie then I can get rid of it as well.
Thanks for this video! Very informative. I have now the challenge that I am shooting a hunting recurve and I think that I need some bigger weight (bows turns back a lot) but can't have a long stabilizer ...
I wonder when they come up with a gyroscope to be fitted to the riser - that should hold the bow dead straight. And when will NASA start to test recurve bows in zero gravity? :oD
You prolly dont care but if you're bored like me during the covid times then you can stream all of the new movies on InstaFlixxer. Have been watching with my girlfriend lately =)
I was thinking about that actually, but they're not red. I'm still using my extension, but once I find another one to replace my cheapie then I can get rid of it as well.
Thank you for the video. It was very useful. I'm about to buy my stabilizer system, and I'm not quite sure about which one should I choose. I know you recommend Doinker, I have some other options too, and I would like to hear your advise, and the reason. My options are (in order of price): W&W HMC Plus, Easton X10, Doinker Avancee, W&W HMC 22, Sebastian Flute Elite, Doinker Elite Supreme (the most expensive). I would really appreciate your help.
They're all pretty solid choices. The W&W HMC+ is a nice beefy stabiliser that is popular with top-level archers, so if you want a nice stabiliser system without forking out tons of cash, the HMC+ is just as good as any. There isn't that much difference between the top brands, and getting the weight and balance correct is more important than getting a good model.
NUSensei Thank you for your answer! Someone just recommended me Precision Balance, which is made by Doinker, and about the same price as the Elite Supreme. But maybe I will choose the HMC+ that you suggested, it's not so expensive, and maybe I won't notice the difference at this point.
The bow I'm currently using is an Optimo+ and recently, the effect of its light weight on my aim is becoming more and more apparent to me. Since switching to an ILF Setup with a heavier aluminum riser is still quite the investment for me, I was wondering if simply adding a basic stabiliser set to my current bow can help me get the additional weight I need. Should I go for it?
Thanks! That's just what I need! ^_^ I really really want to squeeze out as much mileage out of this bow before switching to a proper ILF Recurve. In a way, it helps me appreciate the upgrades that much more.
What about those things with dampeners and weights sticking out of the top and bottom part of the riser before the tiller bolts? What do you call those? I recently tried emulating those "things" by grabbing one extra side bar with a dampener and screwing it on top of my riser (btw, I've upgraded to a proper Axiom+L now. Hurray me!). Needless to say, the extra weight and lesser vibration helped. The only problem I had that time was I didn't know what the hell I was doing lol! EDIT: Oh wait. I just rewatched the video and you already mentioned them. Haha! Never mind then! XD EDIT2: Although, it'd be nice to still know the purpose of those things as compared to the usual front and side stabilizers. =)
I just bought a used Beiter Centralizer long rod for $36 USD. ($38.60 in AUD) Described as 36" with three tuners and it looks like it has a weight adapter on the end. I plan to use it alone as my first stabiliser. It would have cost more if I bought a new, low-end rod.
I cartel & 1 SF long rod, cheap, well worth the 30.00/ea! One question: why a dampened when (slo mo vids on YT) when arrow loose contact with rest half way past shaft, totally no contact for vibration from bow to influence arrow?
Just got myself doinker estremo Stabalizers but how can i adjust the screw mount? i tried turning it with an allen key real hard but i still can't do anything
stabilizers help for any range. If it makes the bow more comfortable to aim then you'll have better accuracy and a more enjoyable shooting session no matter the distance.
What are you thoughts on using side rods / vbar mounts that are different brand/model? I have a Platinum Hi-Mod long rod and I'm looking to get side rods soon, however it's about another $400+ for plat hi-mod side rods + adjustable v-bar mount. I'd much prefer to use a cheaper set of side rods without compromising performance. Thanks
I want to ask if i can make my own stabilizer using some 18 / 22mm copper bars with heavy parts at the ends, does it need to be stiff or a bit flexible ?
Andre Nathan There's no "correct" length. All it comes down to user preference. What you should understand is the effect the length has - the further away from riser, the more the weight pulls the bow down. There's no wrong combination, though through experience, you may find that you're more comfortable with certain configurations. If in doubt, just buy the middle-sized one.
Hello, i have a question about stabilisers. Im thinking of buying the SF Axiom plus complete stabiliser set from merlinarchery as my first stabiliser set. The stabilisers come with dampeners and one weight but since i will most likely need more weights to get the balance right i went looking for SF Axiom weights. I could not find any extra weight so im wondering if the weights are brand interchangeable so i can get extra weights for my stabilisers. Are there any SF Axiom plus weights or do i have to use stabiliser weights from other brands if thats even possible. This is my first time buying stabilisers so im sorry if this question is stupid but i need to know since a stabiliser where i cant costumise the weights are kind of useless to me.
You can buy SF cap and mid weights, which should match perfectly. I believe most of the low-mid range stabilisers use a common thread (1/4" UNC, sometimes written as 1/4"-20 thread) to attach the weights, so you'll find you don't necessarily have to stick to the same brand. For example, I've put Mybo weights (1/4" threaded) on a Cartel stabiliser system. Diameters and size of weights do vary between brands.
Hi NUSensei, question regarding stabilizers, will win win HMC 22 rods fit doinker v-bars? I could not find other v-bars that have an adjustable vertical angle ...
Thank you for your response! Another question, can I connect win & win rods to doinker v bar with quick disconnect (www.lancasterarchery.com/doinker-mighty-mount-fully-adjustable-v-bar-mount-w-angled-qd-qdc-legs.html)? Or i need some converter?
i am using a kaya k3 stabilizer on compound...some of my friends told me that it is a recurve stabilizer. will it work well on my compound bow if it is a recurve stabilizer??
Sensei, what do you call the thing that is attached on top of the sight which looks like a small stabilizer. How does that work and what is the function of that accessory?
I'm looking into getting a stabilizer for my ILF recurve bow but I don't know what length to get. I tried my friends stabilizer which was 27" end to end with 8oz. of weight and it felt fine on my bow. Now does it matter that I have a 31" draw length? What do you recommend?
I'm currently using the Beiter stabilisers that I borrow from my coach, but I find them a bit on the heavy side and I'd like a set on my own (plus I'm terrified to break one of the small rods). I have the possibility of getting a set of Doinker Avancée for about 290 USD, but I'm not entirely sure??? Do anyone have any tips or ecperience with the Avancée stabs?
When i shoot outdoor, I always hung a strip of thin cloth at the end of my stabilizer. I use this to measure wind speed and direction. You think this is allowed in the WA competition?
So here is my beginner stabilizer system...you tell me if its good or not bro... For long rod I have a SF Axiom 28" (won by bidding on ebay..hell yea) Cartell V-bar + Cartel CR Carbon Extender side rods. Now they are not here so I do not know the weights and everything but I think the long rod has the damper. Give me some words brah....
thanks alot bro....currently tuning up my wooden take down with accessories so that I can shoot a perfectly straight arrow everytime....many things need to b done with beginner bow....Archers' no1 problem...arrows arent come out right,
In fact there is high speed footage from Beiter showing the shock produced when releasing the arrow occures after the arrow left contact with the bow string. This means the shock will not affect the arrow in any way, no matter how strong it is. It leads to the conclusion a stabilizer only needs to add stability to the draw process using lenght and weight if needed as well as minimizing the muscle tremor when drawing the bow. Also, a thin stabilizer is much more resistant to wind blowing from the left or right side. For the moment I'm using the Beiter centralizer without weights attached to it. Having seen this video I might try some front and side weights in the future.
If you try those weights i suggest you add a laser to your sights or the arrow. Combine this with long exposure settings on your camera/phone and you should see a pretty good image of your muscle tremor. Now add weights and you will see if the weights actually help reduce the vibration or even worsen them.
Quick connects are basically adapters that screw onto the v-bar. You then put the stabiliser onto the quick-connect mount. It only takes a second to mount it onto the QC, rather than having to screw/unscrew the stabiliser each time you want to use it. I personally don't use one. Setting up doesn't take that long anyway.
I have to disagree with your statement " A more expensive stabilizer is more STABLE". Any cheap set of stabilizers with the correct length and weight distribution can balance and create a more stable sight picture just as well as a high end set of stabilizers. At the end of the day in terms of stability for an archer stabilizers are just tubes with weights at the end, it terms of dampening and vibration ... that's a different story .
I have to disagree with you there. CHEAP stabilizers may be much weaker or much more flexible, which is not ideal. A stabilizer should be stiff and strong.
Wouldn't a much shorter, but more practical stabilizer (say 1ft long instead of like 3) work just as well if you had a lot more weight to it's end? It will counteract the draw raising as much, and presumably one with a bigger wight on the end would absorb more vibrations too?
The short answer being that these are the biggest rip-off in archery. Even high end carbon tubes are pretty cheap these days, and archers have some idea what those costs are like. A few machhined bits and pieces are not a significant expense, look at the price of machined flashlights today, they can be a dollar store item. 200 dollars spent on a screw lathe early in one's career will pay you back over and over again.
Do you have the cheaper doinker vbar? Is there any play on it? I can wiggle my short rods around and it sucks, It's like the old tfc's built in to a vbar.
long rods should be longer than your draw? whats the physics behinds this considering i could just add more weight instead? you said it makes sense but how? hunters get shorter ones, target shooters get longer ones, given circumstance. but whats the weight? lengthand weight compared to draw weight? a dampener compared to string silencers? and how long should it be compared to just adding a lot of weight on a shorter one?? and what do the side bars do? balance is understandable. isnt there just a cookie cutter thing? do this and youll figure it out? instead of saying hey these things exist so go find out what you like? adjustable angles lol why? more variation and a selling point? even looking at most pro target shooter its flat and even i dont really ever see someone with different angled bars.
will wait for the video.. wondering what would be the effect of using different v-bar angle, both horizontal and vertical angle, when shooting recurve bow.. thanks.
thanks mate, very informative, I thought those sticks on the bow was for decorative purpose :). btw, you gain weight in 3 years, your bow can be human stabilized now lol, just kidding
+NUSensei Hello! i recently wasked about a bow on of your other vidios but here i hear that u talk about "Cartel" with that i guess that you are or might be a bot familiar with that brand. so is this scope good for a target archer with a compound bow, www.hobbyskytte.se/product_info.php?currency=EUR&cPath=23_39&products_id=251 .it has 8 times magnification and is right handed, the page is on swedish as u might see as you probably don't understand a thing! always thanks for yuor help NUSensei! :)
There is a "zero balance formula" that would mean that the bow wants to sit still I would like to share with the community if you guys are still watching this (length of front rod * weight of front rod)/ length of rear bars = recommended weight on rear rod Want an example? Let's say I want a stabilizer zero balance setup to start with my compound Let's have the front rod at around 28 inches ( 26 inch draw length right now at 13) and my rear rod (compounds usually only have 1 rear rod) would be at 10 inches Ok let's plug those numbers assuming the front rod is 4 oz (28*4)= 114"oz/10 =14 oz on rear rod(s) This may not be the best feeling that you would have with stabilizers, but it is a great start, just plug in your lengths and front weight and see how everything goes! Conversion for metric readers: 1 kilo= 35.274 oz 1 inch=25.4 mm
I was thinking about that actually, but they're not red :P I'm still using my extension, but once I find another one to replace my cheapie then I can get rid of it as well.
The more I watch you the more I like your sense of humor. Thank you fir all your info...
Just wanted to say I really appreciate your channel. I am just getting into the sport and I have an experienced archer/coach who is helping me build a customized Olympic setup. Your videos have made it so I don't have to hit him up every time I have a question about unfamiliar gear. More importantly, your approach is informative, not insistent. It's educational without having to wade through forums that do more bickering about their preferences than they do informing folks of how to discern between gear for themselves. Much thanks.
I agree with you, actually. I use "stable" in a very broad sense that includes vibration and dampening, and by extension how well you can fine-tune balance. But otherwise, I push that cheap stabilisers are just as good and there's no real need for big spending on stabilisers. I only bought the Doinkers as a bit of a reward for myself :)
Brilliant short summary of a complicated and confusing subject (for us new archers). Many Thanks, Nu.
I wondered about that as well, but realised that the Doinker Platniums have a solid plastic housing around the damper at the end.
I like this video a lot. I just got a Doinker Platinum set, 30" with side 12". I cannot wait to try it when my new target bow, that I ordered last week, Obsession Pheonix XL, comes in.
Thanks for the plain talk. You give a lot of info in a short time.
I have watched all your videos. Love it!! I don't even own a bow or shoot yet but you have inspired me. Good job my friend..
Hey NUSensei. I have watched over 15video's so far from you and i really like that you did add some jokes this time. Other than that keep the tips coming ;)
Firstly, I don't use aluminum arrows, so I can't demonstrate. Secondly, while it's possible to do some crude repair by hand, you can find a special tool for it. Thirdly, aluminium arrows aren't really worth that much to repair. May as well get new ones, or get carbon arrows.
Your archery videos are great!
I am new to the sport, and I really appreciate this video! Thank you for great explanation!
I like your video, great job! It was super informative and you're very good at explaining things. You clearly know what you're talking about!
I was thinking about that actually, but they're not red :P
I'm still using my extension, but once I find another one to replace my cheapie then I can get rid of it as well.
Thanks for this video! Very informative. I have now the challenge that I am shooting a hunting recurve and I think that I need some bigger weight (bows turns back a lot) but can't have a long stabilizer ...
Thank you for the excellent information!
This is really helpful. Thank you love ♥
I wonder when they come up with a gyroscope to be fitted to the riser - that should hold the bow dead straight.
And when will NASA start to test recurve bows in zero gravity? :oD
That always existed
You prolly dont care but if you're bored like me during the covid times then you can stream all of the new movies on InstaFlixxer. Have been watching with my girlfriend lately =)
@Kasen Ronin Definitely, been watching on instaflixxer for years myself :)
@Kasen Ronin Yea, have been watching on InstaFlixxer for years myself :D
I got a "hidden pleasure" center ad after this video after all the long rod talk 😂😂😂
This intro AHAHAHAHAHAH
I wonder how those stabilizers compare to a sawed broomstick and a roll of steel washers.
Is there a reason to go for 17mm-diameter bars over larger diameters?
17mm is NOT influenced
by the wind, as much as 23mm.
THAT'S IT.
The latest bars are as thin as
12mm, and these are even LESS influenced by wind.
love the beginning :D
The SF Axiom stabilizers actually come with dampeners and are in about $40
I was thinking about that actually, but they're not red.
I'm still using my extension, but once I find another one to replace my cheapie then I can get rid of it as well.
the stabilizer set up is COMPLETELY personal preference
You channel is excellent. Thank you! Would you know anything about bow sims like fireline or burnie's panic sim. Is it a waste of money? Many thanks!
Great video! Would you be interested in selling your old v bars and extension?
Thank you for the video. It was very useful. I'm about to buy my stabilizer system, and I'm not quite sure about which one should I choose. I know you recommend Doinker, I have some other options too, and I would like to hear your advise, and the reason. My options are (in order of price): W&W HMC Plus, Easton X10, Doinker Avancee, W&W HMC 22, Sebastian Flute Elite, Doinker Elite Supreme (the most expensive). I would really appreciate your help.
They're all pretty solid choices. The W&W HMC+ is a nice beefy stabiliser that is popular with top-level archers, so if you want a nice stabiliser system without forking out tons of cash, the HMC+ is just as good as any. There isn't that much difference between the top brands, and getting the weight and balance correct is more important than getting a good model.
NUSensei Thank you for your answer! Someone just recommended me Precision Balance, which is made by Doinker, and about the same price as the Elite Supreme. But maybe I will choose the HMC+ that you suggested, it's not so expensive, and maybe I won't notice the difference at this point.
I'm hoping to get rise carbon blade stabilisers in July.
Fuse not rise, bloody spell check!
What do you think of the whole Shibuya caruno system? And when would you suggest getting a set of vbars?
The bow I'm currently using is an Optimo+ and recently, the effect of its light weight on my aim is becoming more and more apparent to me. Since switching to an ILF Setup with a heavier aluminum riser is still quite the investment for me, I was wondering if simply adding a basic stabiliser set to my current bow can help me get the additional weight I need. Should I go for it?
It would make a pretty big difference for a light bow.
Thanks! That's just what I need! ^_^
I really really want to squeeze out as much mileage out of this bow before switching to a proper ILF Recurve. In a way, it helps me appreciate the upgrades that much more.
I bought a complete Sebastian Flute stabiliser set for £99 on eBay, weights and dampeners included - looks like there ARE some bargains out there :o)
hey sensei, can stabilizer for recurved bow is used for compound bow?
Yes, they are the same.
Well versed and very informative! Thank you
Hey NuSensei,
Could you explain me a little bit more about vbar angles?
What about those things with dampeners and weights sticking out of the top and bottom part of the riser before the tiller bolts? What do you call those?
I recently tried emulating those "things" by grabbing one extra side bar with a dampener and screwing it on top of my riser (btw, I've upgraded to a proper Axiom+L now. Hurray me!). Needless to say, the extra weight and lesser vibration helped. The only problem I had that time was I didn't know what the hell I was doing lol!
EDIT: Oh wait. I just rewatched the video and you already mentioned them. Haha! Never mind then! XD
EDIT2: Although, it'd be nice to still know the purpose of those things as compared to the usual front and side stabilizers. =)
Thinking of RCX-100 riser, but with all these "MAX" in use I am unsure.
I just bought a used Beiter Centralizer long rod for $36 USD. ($38.60 in AUD) Described as 36" with three tuners and it looks like it has a weight adapter on the end. I plan to use it alone as my first stabiliser. It would have cost more if I bought a new, low-end rod.
Thank you coach
I don't shoot with a stabilizer and just practice in my back yard at 20meters. am I gonna suck?
Nope. Stabilisers are not required to shoot well. They just make it easier to be more consistent, especially over long distance.
Thank you very much!! :-)
Hi I'm not sure if I missed it but could you do a video explaining about the limbs?
I'll look into it. I'm a little short for time at the moment, but I will be making a video on it.
I cartel & 1 SF long rod, cheap, well worth the 30.00/ea! One question: why a dampened when (slo mo vids on YT) when arrow loose contact with rest half way past shaft, totally no contact for vibration from bow to influence arrow?
can you tell me the purpose of a short stabiliser on a compound bow which is attached to only one side of the bow
Just got myself doinker estremo Stabalizers but how can i adjust the screw mount? i tried turning it with an allen key real hard but i still can't do anything
Hey, NUSensei! I just got my bow. I was wondering can I already have a stabiliser?
There's nothing wrong with starting with one.
My question while reading this comment is.. does it matter for shooting 10-20m range ?
stabilizers help for any range. If it makes the bow more comfortable to aim then you'll have better accuracy and a more enjoyable shooting session no matter the distance.
What are you thoughts on using side rods / vbar mounts that are different brand/model? I have a Platinum Hi-Mod long rod and I'm looking to get side rods soon, however it's about another $400+ for plat hi-mod side rods + adjustable v-bar mount. I'd much prefer to use a cheaper set of side rods without compromising performance. Thanks
Anybody know how good is the stabilizers from Arc Systéme? The price of a complete set looks good.
I want to ask if i can make my own stabilizer using some 18 / 22mm copper bars with heavy parts at the ends, does it need to be stiff or a bit flexible ?
I know this might be a slight hijacking, but what are the benefits of a top limb damper? I am wondering if getting one for my SF Axiom recurve.
More vibration reduction. Some people also like the additional weight for balance.
Im thinking to buy stabilizer. I need to buy on budget. I think i should get Axiom+ set, i have Axiom+ limbs and Axiom riser. Maybe it wil be ok?
Nothing wrong with that.
@Kumikaine : what is considered correct length and weigh distribution?
which length is the best all for side rod, extender, and long rod?
Andre Nathan There's no "correct" length. All it comes down to user preference. What you should understand is the effect the length has - the further away from riser, the more the weight pulls the bow down. There's no wrong combination, though through experience, you may find that you're more comfortable with certain configurations. If in doubt, just buy the middle-sized one.
Hello, i have a question about stabilisers. Im thinking of buying the SF Axiom plus complete stabiliser set from merlinarchery as my first stabiliser set. The stabilisers come with dampeners and one weight but since i will most likely need more weights to get the balance right i went looking for SF Axiom weights. I could not find any extra weight so im wondering if the weights are brand interchangeable so i can get extra weights for my stabilisers. Are there any SF Axiom plus weights or do i have to use stabiliser weights from other brands if thats even possible. This is my first time buying stabilisers so im sorry if this question is stupid but i need to know since a stabiliser where i cant costumise the weights are kind of useless to me.
Not all weights are interchangeable. Most weights from the same brand are. I don't have an SF Axiom stab with me, so I can't verify which ones fit.
You can buy SF cap and mid weights, which should match perfectly. I believe most of the low-mid range stabilisers use a common thread (1/4" UNC, sometimes written as 1/4"-20 thread) to attach the weights, so you'll find you don't necessarily have to stick to the same brand. For example, I've put Mybo weights (1/4" threaded) on a Cartel stabiliser system. Diameters and size of weights do vary between brands.
so at this date which stablizer gives good performance for hoyt formula risers with quttro limbs
I am looking for a good stabilizer to buy for my hoyt formula bow , I can also spend a bit more , could you suggest, thanks
What is the disadvantage bet. 10" or 12" side rod stabilizer?
Hi NUSensei, question regarding stabilizers, will win win HMC 22 rods fit doinker v-bars? I could not find other v-bars that have an adjustable vertical angle ...
They should. The threads are pretty much standard.
Thank you for your response! Another question, can I connect win & win rods to doinker v bar with quick disconnect (www.lancasterarchery.com/doinker-mighty-mount-fully-adjustable-v-bar-mount-w-angled-qd-qdc-legs.html)? Or i need some converter?
I'm not sure how they work, to be honest. I don't use them.
Thanks for the reply!
i am using a kaya k3 stabilizer on compound...some of my friends told me that it is a recurve stabilizer. will it work well on my compound bow if it is a recurve stabilizer??
Daryl Lim There isn't really a distinction between recurve and compound stabilisers.
Sensei, what do you call the thing that is attached on top of the sight which looks like a small stabilizer. How does that work and what is the function of that accessory?
I'm looking into getting a stabilizer for my ILF recurve bow but I don't know what length to get.
I tried my friends stabilizer which was 27" end to end with 8oz. of weight and it felt fine on my bow.
Now does it matter that I have a 31" draw length?
What do you recommend?
I'm currently using the Beiter stabilisers that I borrow from my coach, but I find them a bit on the heavy side and I'd like a set on my own (plus I'm terrified to break one of the small rods). I have the possibility of getting a set of Doinker Avancée for about 290 USD, but I'm not entirely sure??? Do anyone have any tips or ecperience with the Avancée stabs?
One of our club members uses Avancee's. They're affordable versions of the Doinker top-end stuff, but a lot thinner.
Yeah, they are. I'm also considering the HMC Plus or HMC 22 stabs.
When i shoot outdoor, I always hung a strip of thin cloth at the end of my stabilizer. I use this to measure wind speed and direction. You think this is allowed in the WA competition?
This is legal, and was in fact clarified in a previous WA memo.
a bowquiver also acts a bit like a stabilizer i'd say
Hello Sensei. What is your opinion of the new Wiawis Stabiliser system as compared to the HMC plus or HMC 22? How would you rank them?
I haven't used any of them, so I can't give an assessment.
Which is better?
cartel dynamite, nexus, or maxion?
When I starting olympic archery, I tought stabilizer as a melee weapon... 😅
Hi Newbie here. What currency are you using here?
Australian casholla.He is an Aussie.
Enrique Correa Thank you :)
So here is my beginner stabilizer system...you tell me if its good or not bro...
For long rod I have a SF Axiom 28" (won by bidding on ebay..hell yea)
Cartell V-bar + Cartel CR Carbon Extender side rods.
Now they are not here so I do not know the weights and everything but I think the long rod has the damper. Give me some words brah....
should I buy Cartel 3 Segment weights (1/4" thread and are 33mm x 18mm in diameter) later on if it turns out to b too light for me.
Nothing wrong with those stabilisers. They do the job just as effectively as any other system, until you reach the point where you want fine tuning.
thanks alot bro....currently tuning up my wooden take down with accessories so that I can shoot a perfectly straight arrow everytime....many things need to b done with beginner bow....Archers' no1 problem...arrows arent come out right,
im getting a not so beginner set of beginner set (ATF25"+ premium-a limbs66"22LB + WS700 + beiter button + SuperRest + Revel28"
How long is your stableizer
In fact there is high speed footage from Beiter showing the shock produced when releasing the arrow occures after the arrow left contact with the bow string.
This means the shock will not affect the arrow in any way, no matter how strong it is.
It leads to the conclusion a stabilizer only needs to add stability to the draw process using lenght and weight if needed as well as minimizing the muscle tremor when drawing the bow.
Also, a thin stabilizer is much more resistant to wind blowing from the left or right side.
For the moment I'm using the Beiter centralizer without weights attached to it.
Having seen this video I might try some front and side weights in the future.
If you try those weights i suggest you add a laser to your sights or the arrow. Combine this with long exposure settings on your camera/phone and you should see a pretty good image of your muscle tremor. Now add weights and you will see if the weights actually help reduce the vibration or even worsen them.
english longbow , a stick a string and a huge smile 😀🇬🇧
You good man!
Fuse taper x dont come with damper, and is very expensive...
Tried cheap and expensive stabilizers. No real difference. All marketing and gimmicks. Common with archery gear.
Well it's weight put on an axis meant to increase moment of inertia. Physics don't change because of $$$ price tag
It's just the fact that you two aren't good enough to tell the difference.
Its just the fact you are a smart ass you tuber..........
WOW! Shibuya sight!
Thanks this was very helpfull
helpful, thanks
Ok, ill have a look at the side bars on Saturday if that's ok with you.
How do quick connects work and how well do they work?
Quick connects are basically adapters that screw onto the v-bar. You then put the stabiliser onto the quick-connect mount. It only takes a second to mount it onto the QC, rather than having to screw/unscrew the stabiliser each time you want to use it.
I personally don't use one. Setting up doesn't take that long anyway.
NUSensei
Oh, I see how they work now. Since I leave my bow laying on the floor at home (for now) a quick disconnect might be useful, or a bow stand.
I have to disagree with your statement " A more expensive stabilizer is more STABLE".
Any cheap set of stabilizers with the correct length and weight distribution can balance and create a more stable sight picture just as well as a high end set of stabilizers. At the end of the day in terms of stability for an archer stabilizers are just tubes with weights at the end, it terms of dampening and vibration ... that's a different story .
I have to disagree with you there.
CHEAP stabilizers may be much weaker or much more flexible, which is not ideal. A stabilizer should be stiff and strong.
«Whereas the high-end stabilizes tend to come in black or... black» :)
Wouldn't a much shorter, but more practical stabilizer (say 1ft long instead of like 3) work just as well if you had a lot more weight to it's end? It will counteract the draw raising as much, and presumably one with a bigger wight on the end would absorb more vibrations too?
The downside is alot more total bow mass versus the longer rods, more leverage so more effective use of weight.
The short answer being that these are the biggest rip-off in archery. Even high end carbon tubes are pretty cheap these days, and archers have some idea what those costs are like. A few machhined bits and pieces are not a significant expense, look at the price of machined flashlights today, they can be a dollar store item. 200 dollars spent on a screw lathe early in one's career will pay you back over and over again.
A 22mm 1meter tube, free delivery, is 20 US
were you holding your breath for this entire video my friend?
Do you have the cheaper doinker vbar? Is there any play on it? I can wiggle my short rods around and it sucks, It's like the old tfc's built in to a vbar.
long rods should be longer than your draw? whats the physics behinds this considering i could just add more weight instead? you said it makes sense but how? hunters get shorter ones, target shooters get longer ones, given circumstance. but whats the weight? lengthand weight compared to draw weight? a dampener compared to string silencers? and how long should it be compared to just adding a lot of weight on a shorter one?? and what do the side bars do? balance is understandable. isnt there just a cookie cutter thing? do this and youll figure it out? instead of saying hey these things exist so go find out what you like? adjustable angles lol why? more variation and a selling point? even looking at most pro target shooter its flat and even i dont really ever see someone with different angled bars.
I'll be covering this in an upcoming video.
will wait for the video.. wondering what would be the effect of using different v-bar angle, both horizontal and vertical angle, when shooting recurve bow.. thanks.
thank you!! ill be waiting for it
thanks mate, very informative, I thought those sticks on the bow was for decorative purpose :). btw, you gain weight in 3 years, your bow can be human stabilized now lol, just kidding
Pretty overpriced for something that basically just increases the moment of inertia.
Could you in a later video demonstrate streightining an aluminium arrow this will be helpful !
I'll just build my own.
+NUSensei Hello! i recently wasked about a bow on of your other vidios but here i hear that u talk about "Cartel" with that i guess that you are or might be a bot familiar with that brand. so is this scope good for a target archer with a compound bow, www.hobbyskytte.se/product_info.php?currency=EUR&cPath=23_39&products_id=251 .it has 8 times magnification and is right handed, the page is on swedish as u might see as you probably don't understand a thing! always thanks for yuor help NUSensei! :)
The scope is a good brand. I don't have much else to say about it.
+NUSensei good enough for me! ;P
Bee Stinger XL Premiere Freestyles on sale at lancasterarchery for 43% off (130$) im getting one to replace my 30 year old oldschool stabilizer :)
Their was actually
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That much time left
There.....
There is a "zero balance formula" that would mean that the bow wants to sit still I would like to share with the community if you guys are still watching this
(length of front rod * weight of front rod)/ length of rear bars = recommended weight on rear rod
Want an example?
Let's say I want a stabilizer zero balance setup to start with my compound
Let's have the front rod at around 28 inches ( 26 inch draw length right now at 13) and my rear rod (compounds usually only have 1 rear rod) would be at 10 inches
Ok let's plug those numbers assuming the front rod is 4 oz
(28*4)= 114"oz/10 =14 oz on rear rod(s)
This may not be the best feeling that you would have with stabilizers, but it is a great start, just plug in your lengths and front weight and see how everything goes!
Conversion for metric readers:
1 kilo= 35.274 oz
1 inch=25.4 mm
Brasian
A proper installed tuned stabiliser system does help you aim better. Please note
My rod is 6 inch long and all women say it’s good enough!
My dad is a handy man and I challenged him to make me a 21inch front bar and 12 inch side bar as I can't afford them
I was thinking about that actually, but they're not red :P
I'm still using my extension, but once I find another one to replace my cheapie then I can get rid of it as well.