The 'Flow and Export' video Josh produced was TOP NOTCH CONTENT! I want more fundamentals videos like that. And the vid about the lighting how to go full whites, then ramp down to blues as a 'break' for the coral on top of good feeding.
I love this tank-side-chat format, and the interaction between Vic and Josh is very natural, relaxed and informative. I'd love to see more of these! The most important thing I've learned over 30 years in this hobby is to keep it simple and easy, as Josh stated in the video, because we are more likely to follow through with our "reef chores". And even though I don't try to keep up with all the latest gizmos and techniques, there is still a bit of drift, and I do find myself having to re-learn the basics from time to time to re-center. Subscribed!
So how is the amount of kalk metered? Cuz if it’s running off your top off then it’s just going in there as the water evaporates from your display, right?? Honest question.
@@jonathancollins9831you don't actually have it on your auto top off, you just figure out about how much you evaporate every day set the kalk doser to dose just about that amount. For example if you evaporate two gallons a day set your pump to dose 1.9 gallons and let your ATO make up that last 0.1 and any small variations
My home evaporates my tank at a pretty consistent rate. You can dial in kalk in your ato to maintain consistency. I do BRS 2 part with Kalk in my ato and dialed them both in to keep DKH consistent week after week at 8.7 effortlessly.
I am brand new to reefing but learn so much listening to this! Thank you for sharing. The interaction between you and your differing viewpoints is actually helping to clarify my understanding of these processes!
I’ve been doing this for 35 years and am always on the hunt to learn something new. I love your simple approach and your candid stories of success and failure. Please keep up the great work and information sharing!!
Thank you for your comments!!! We all learn from our mistakes, that is part of the process of becoming a seasoned reefer. And we do love to keep it simple over here 😎
Love watching your videos very knowledgeable stuff for sure . So I just set up a Nano tank 8 weeks now we keep it running at Nitrate 5.-10 ppm Phosphate’s 0.25 corals are thriving fish are doing great
A month ago I made my mum come to take pictures of the lagoon whilst she was on holiday. From England but LOVE these vids! You guys are some of the best in the world!
This was a great discussion. I feel that there is way more to nitrates and phosphate than we currently know. There has to be some reason. My tank which has a phosphate level of 1.1 ppm and nitrates at 70 is growing acros. My colors are not the best but they are actually growing. Why rock the boat.
More please. I like the store/farm content with lecture/learning. I like it also when Victor and Josh are together, two perspectives that are similar but different. Very informative. Victor sort of helps Josh make his scientific stuff easier for us to understand lol.
I also enjoy these videos because 8 years ago I started my salt water reef aquarium journey. I have made many mistake like others and also have continued to learn and develop my understanding for marine life and sustaining marine ecosystems. I am currently trying to breed a male snow storm clown fish with a female platinum. Both of them have very nice hues of blue around their black markings, that I would like to hone in on genetically. I also have a 3.5 Pico with my alveopora and other coral grow outs as well as a 7 gallon quarantine tank for new tank mates. My show piece in progress is my 60 gallon cube which is only a few months old and I am enjoying the process. It is hard to have just one saltwater tank as you end up wanting everything over time, and everything doesn't always do well together.
Man I really appreciate your guys time and dedication to education in the reefing world. My reefing style is so similar to Josh’s that I really enjoy hearing his opinions!
It's refreshing that they said they have no problems using rocks from a tank that's fish only and has been medicated, and putting them in a reef. I've done that myself, and my reef today is thriving despite all the nay sayers that insist the copper would leach out of the rocks and nuke the reef. It's been three years, still hasn't happened.
Great video thanks guys. By the way your main camera is setup wrong or maybe in post it seems to be a different frame rate compared to the your second close up camera which looks so much better and doesn't stutter.
Thank you for these videos, it presents me with ideas and how to approach my tank , your openness and approach is very refreshing . Please keep the info coming .
This is a very important discussion & You both nailed it in regard to nitrates and phosphates. I have been dosing Brightwell’s Phosphate-e for some time now with very good results on my 600g tank and managing my levels hasn’t been too hard. Thanks guys
Great video! Always love seeing your content! I have a ques that I can’t seem to understand. I have a 25g lagoon. Long story short, tank survived a house fire. Ash, soon and debris went fully into the tank. I kid you not this triggered a huge uptake in alkalinity and nitrates… the following weeks after the fire the tank has nearly doubled its consumption .
I'm really interested in the e FOWL to a reef tank that was treated with copper. This is what I'm currently trying to do. Love the videos! Thanks, guys.
I heard the part where you are turning the FOWLER to a Reef and have had meds in there. Any particular method or details you could share? I had velvet break out in my 310g mixed reef. Had to remove all coral to medicate 6 tangs and wrasses. 15 days left and I can start removing the Copper Power at 2.5ppm. kept my NSA aquascaped rocks and sand in
How do i maintain a zero nutrient tank without diatoms? Also don’t the corals need nitrates in order to grow ? So how is it that josh is maintains zero nutrients and allowing corals to grow? Please help with this ?
Dose Nori put phosphates in the water? I feed two full sheets of Nori and two cubes of myiss two cubes of marine cuisine two cubes of angel fish formula and two cubes of brine shrimp once a day I have 8 tangs three angel fish two clowns a scooter blenny and a Diamond goby and 4 banggai Cardinals. I bought the tank used and I have had it set up 2 and a half years when I bought it the guy had it set up but not sure for how long. The tank is a 180 gal with a at least a 40 gal trigger sump my nitrates where running about 80 to 90 my phosphates are running some where around 3.0 so they are high. I can't keep any kind of stoney corals at all but I do have some leather corals mushrooms some zoas that's not really doing that good but my leathers, Toadstool and the rest of my leathers are growing. I can't do regular water changes because I have been having a lot of health problems and I'm not able to work and trying to get on disability if that happens I will be able to do more water changes and probably try and set up automatic water changes. So I guess what I'm trying to ask is am I feeding to much for the fish that I have? There is about 100 lbs of live rock in the tank any suggestions would be very much appreciated.
Love your videos! I have a 20G mixed reef that is testing 0 Nitrates and 0.1 phosphate. Don’t want to get Dino’s so I started to feed more and slowly bring up the nutrients.
I think what you are saying is corals are really tolerant of conditions way outside of their natural environment if they conditions stay constant, and for many reefers it is easier to stay dirtier with less feeding and waste export overheads and time invested to mimic the actual conditions on the reef. This is also the reason why numbers do matter as they are the measure of stability, and is also the reason why some reefs can't grow certain corals in their tanks well.
I like your statement about keeping Nitrate/Phosphate low but you feed heavy and filter heavy. A steady intput/output balance (i.e. stability) seems more important than just keeping nitrates and phosphates at one specific number
Great video guys, very informative! I’m always battling high nutrients, I’m a heavy feeder - I like my fish fat & healthy! That lagoon tank is phenomenal, but my OCD can’t help but notice that mangrove that’s leaning a little to the left, I would have to center it😂. It’s looking super healthy!
Awesome video per usual! Any suggestions dealing with Dino in an established tank with .08 phos and 20 nitrates. Dealing with Large cell/prorocentrum dinos. Looking to see what the best approach is. Thanks and happy reefing.
If i didnt miss it you did not discuss refugium, macro algea or other plants for nutrient export. Why? I think those giant mangroves in the back of that tank helps alot with the nutrients.
I'm not sure if this will get anywhere but I'm running a 14 month old mixed reef on a fluval fx6 canister filter in Arizona. I have a 65 gallon rimless made by Current. I have scolys, acans, favias, wilsoni, blasto, torches, chalice, acros and a few others corals, quite heavly stocked with corals. I have been decently successful despite what many people think of canister filters, though, I am very involved with my tank. I'd love to pick Josh's brain for a few mins. There is NO information on running this kind of a reef tank with a canister filter. I'm not sure how to get in touch but if you guys are interested l, I would like to talk to Josh. Thanks, keep up the great work
Learned in my AIO I have to dose phosphates since corals eat it up and if I need to bring nitrates down I can do water change or dose live phyto. Haven't done a water change in a while and my tank is only 50 gallons AIO.
Autofeeder got stuck today and dumped 3 weeks worth of food so I’ll be fighting the nitrate battle for the next few months now. Do I buy the foxface now or wait is the only question. 😂
Have trouble with phosphates we have tank water so has lots of leaves on roof and birds so even though Rodi with two resin chambers water that goes in is .06 and the tank is 1 . On saying that tank is doing well no hair algae (mixed tank 280 litres no filters) only 5 fish.
@@WorldWideCorals I lean the tank once a week 240 litres and do 40 litre water change clean pumps every 6 weeks and every 3rd week try and clean sand one side at a time . Only 5 fish one shrimp coral banded and one hermit crab.
I definitely know the smell you speak of. I've run a 3 gallon reef only tank for about 9 months now, learned a lot. It only has a simple foam filter that also feeds the water flow to the top of the tank (all inside the tank). I do regular water changes, don't have that much phosphates. Nitrates have gotten high but only because I've had snails that cause it to go higher. Recently I've not had anything but corals and the nirates have been lower. I keeps soft corals only, and zoas are one of them. I hear they like a little bit of nitratres, and the tank usually gets to about 5 nitrates after a water change. I've tried stoney corals but didn't work out and I've heard that's due to the size of the tank being too small. I haven't really done much dosing, maybe some carbonate to raise KH sometimes. I use Instant Ocean Reef Crystals for my water mix. pH stays around 8.3 - 8.6 throughout the day.
i think the 50 nitrates ok - what you dont see is the death rate of the corals initially and what survived the journey to the 50ppm nitrate. Personally I'd prefer to keep them less than 10ppm and phosphates less than 0.10ppm
@Worldwidecorals it’s not the API aqua spin. The one I’m using that he said in this video is the Lamotte spintouch FF. Very accurate and been spot on with check against Hanna checkers
I have a 2 year old Fluval Evo 13.5 Nano tank and I've almost never had detectable Nitrates and very rarely detectable Phosphates. Things are doing pretty well but I always wonder if bringing them up will make things happier. Just no more room to add bioload
What do you say about people not doing anything if they read 0. Not to chase a number. I’ve listened and let me tell you… as soon as it stayed at 0 for 3 weeks I started getting all kinds of algae and took me 3 months to bring it back.
Nutrients in, nutrients out is the key. If you are not feeding your tank much and your phosphates and nitrates rest at 0, you will have a dino outbreak. What Josh is doing to his tank is feeding heavy, keeping the microfauna and bacteria well fed, but doing water changes to get excess nutrients out. Dino grows when there is nothing there thriving, to compete with it. In most cases, it is best not to keep levels at 0. Preferably, nitrates should be 10-15ppm and po4 between 0.03 and 0.1ppm.
Josh super cool guy .. any questions he is helping me all the time.. i haven’t had the opportunity to ask victor or chat with him ( he is a little serious) but im pretty sure he is cool too
My son is ready for you this year vic, the high five championship is coming home with us this year he said he's tired of you winning LMFAO see you at palooza New York in June
What would yall do about a 125 gallon tank with a center brace? I have 3 ai prime 16s. Would you put the center one off set or buy another one? Also what do you need to test for regularly and what would you test like once a month?
@@WorldWideCorals I haven’t put the tank up yet but have everything to do it. Just wondering what I should do. This is my first saltwater tank and definitely want corals
@@WorldWideCorals I haven’t started the tank yet. I was just wondering what would be the best thing to do about it when I do get it set up. Thank y’all for the help by the way
I’ve noticed with two clowns and a neon goby my nitrates are consistently at 4 or 5 in a 10g tank. I bought corals from wwc acans and some zoas, ricodias and was told to have my nitrates between 10 to 15. Been tough to get it up there with out having high phosphate. Corals seem pretty happy they puff up and contract early evening hours. I follow Vic’s möbius schedule for my single grow blade. Flow is at 856g pulse from a AI nero. Acans are in the middle to bottom of the tank not directly in the flow. Knowing from this video not every tank is the same. Should I not worry about my acans and softies and just believe they acclimated to 5 nitrate. Been banging my head on my desk trying to get to 10 to 15 nitrate.
I have a 130 gallon Waterbox tank that’s been running for over 3 years now. I only have about 12-15 corals or so in the tank, I plan on adding more but I’m a bit tight with money. I notice my po4 rises quickly in a week, normally getting to .1 or a little higher if I don’t add rowa. Do you think the lack of corals in my tank is causing phosphate instability? My nitrates are 9.5-10ppm so they seem to be at a good number but my po4 can never stay stable for long. I’m also facing a minor green hair algae outbreak in the tank that I’m doing my best to resolve. A large cleanup crew should help right that right? I assume the hair algae is from elevated po4 levels. Any tips would be great and thanks!
@@WorldWideCorals I haven’t for a while now, I feed TDO pellets, Nutramar pellets as well as Rod’s food fish blend. Should I try reef nutritions liquid foods?
@@reefingislife Yes, reef nutrition are great, and are not loaded with tons of phosphates. Rod's food does have a good amount of phosphate as well. Try using foods like mysis, roe, and brine for a while and see if the phosphates stop going up.
@@WorldWideCorals Ugh! I’m throwing Rods food away right now 😂Thanks so much for the info I’ll try reef nutrition. Can I still feed those pellets I mentioned or slow down on those?
Im not saying your wrong about leeching nutrients, let me start there, but let me also tell you about my experience the last 2 years. I setup a 225 and used 200lbs of rocks I got from another reefer. His tank was COVERED in GHA. He removed the rocks, did not clean them, and left them outside on his porch. I get them a year later, run them through a muriatic acid bath, sparkly clean rocks right? I thought so. Put them in the tank, start a fishless cycle with Dr. Tims AC and MB7. About the 6 month mark phosphate, nitrite, and nitrate went up drastically to off charts levels, the tests were daaaaark and beyond the range of the card. 50% water change wouldn't touch it. I did everything I knew how to do to bring it down with no success. This went on for about 10 months, of course cyano and GHA showed up enmasse. Then overnight one night everything dropped to flat zero, phos,nites,nates all 0 and they have stayed at 0 since then, about 8 months. Cyano and GHA went away, and the tank looks great except for being in an ULN state. Every day Im afraid of Dinos popping up. Im not saying it was dead organics leeching out of the rocks, but I did nothing to the tank to make the levels explode and stay that way for months and months. Nothing I do would affect it either. Im very inclined to believe thats what happend, but have no way to test or prove it. Im also going to start ammonia dosing the tank to try and correct the unwanted ULN state of affairs. lol Just wanted to share that with you. Wondered what your thoughts were on it if you have time. Thanks!
@@WorldWideCorals I completely understand why you would say that. However I am not new to reef keeping, The dose I would be using is very very very small, and not in any way a danger to the livestock. Its so small in fact that it won't even register on most test kits. It is absolutely an experiment and I am not recommending that anyone else do it.
I think it was mentioned a couple of times really quickly in the video. Excessively high nitrates and phosphates will kill corals. Thanks for watching!!!
Started with all dry rock (some large) and a bit of seed crushed coral from a well established tank. I built in a large trickle filter, 2 years later I have 0 nitrate but still battling brown algae.... (very little green algae) Is the not fully mature dry rock still leeching and feeding the algae...? Pink coral line on my snails is doing great, but not much at all anywhere else, little spots pop up but don't flourish (I do have a fair amount of grey/green coral line) RODI water 0 TDS, Very light load and feeding, 15% water change a week.
You could have dinos. Dinos in general can become a problem when nitrate/phosphate bottom out. Some dinos don’t look very stringy/snotty and look more like diatoms. You should get a microscope or find someone with one and ID the algae. Amphidinium is a kind of dino that is not very snotty or stringy
@@ShadowTheNinjaKitty Thanks for the reply, I believe you're right it's like a light dusting of brown that will seem to blow off with a turkey baster, but leaves a thin fluffy "structure" behind, and it seems to scrub off with a firm shortened bristled toothbrush but it's not really gone... LOL Things are getting somewhat "better" coralline is coming on and normal green algae. I think it's maturing really slow because of ALL dry rock and limited bio diversity from just a gravel seeding, Copepods mostly, I haven't seen any sponges or squirts or anything, I really like all that stuff...! I did this as a pest "prevention" measure so I'm reluctant to put a piece nice live rock in there to seed that type of life.... I wish I knew someone with a CLEAN tank I could get a piece from. We only have 1 good saltwater fish store, and they're not selling rock out of their display tank.... lol
Couldn't agree more! You can't talk about Nitrates and Phospates without talking about algae, dinos and cyano! I have been doing freshwater for many years and switched to saltwater 6 months ago. In freshwater, you want NO Nitrates or Phosphates (unless you have plants) and the cleanest you can keep your tank the better. But I have quickly learned that you need some level of nitrates and phosphates in your tank. I have all the gadgets on my 80G saltwater tank and turns out the water was too clean. I first thought it was diatoms but it was a dino outbreak. The reason is because my nitrates and phosphates were both at zero. Now I am treating it. I cut back my skimmer, halted water changes, only run blue lights and increased water flow. I also added Money Cowrie snails (known to eat dinos), Phytoplankton, and Tisbee Pods (also known to eat dinos). I also purchased a 5 micron filter sock and am siphoning out the dinos daily through the sock and then putting the water back into the tank. In just 2 days I am already seeing less dinos return when the lights come on.
I ruined my glass over doing it with seaclear. It's like a foggy haze on your glass you can't get rid of. Would never do it in the display again. Maybe in the sump or skimmer. Maybe
Hey WWC, I have a problem. I have rising nitrates and dropping phos to the point I need to dose or the coral lose color and half way open. I have a refugium I just plumbed in over a month ago and it works well, my nitrates are now readable but they rise really fast. I feed frozen 3 times a week, very little for a cardinal and a clown. I just got a gravel vac and vaccumed the fuge and the display and there was so much waste. I think that may have been the issue, would you agree that it would be the issue for nitrates going to 20 to 26 in a day? They genrally stay between 30 and 50 weekly. Honestly going crazy.
Hi Mark! Your nitrates are surely on the high side. There is something more to this story. What are you using to test your nitrates? BTW, Brightwell does make NO3 removing bricks that you can put in your sump. They work great!
I use the hanna test kit and if I need another option, I use salifert. I'll have to check those out but it's really irritating cause I'm trying to grow my zoas.
@@markgarcia2028 If you have a local store that you trust, I'd suggest having a service technician stop by to check things out. Something is not right there.
I've looked all over and can't find what may be going on that my nitrates are zero and phosphates are .90. This has been the case for four months. I run a skimmer (for this size tank), algea scrubber, and filter socks, as well as live rock and live sand. The tank was started with dry rock and sand in October 2023. I feed half a cube of frozen brine shrimp and a pinch of saki marine herbivore pellet food daily.
How did you guys do an episode on nitrates and phosphates and not talk about refugiums? There's literally a mangrove growing in the background! Macroalgae has to be the simplest and easiest form of nutrient export
We do not use refugiums at all. We don't really preach something we do not practice. There are some youtube videos out there that we have done with BRS where we talk about why we feel that they are not a necessity. The mangrove is not there for nutrient export, it is there as the focus of the lagoon mangrove tank for the visuals. Mangroves remove a lot less phosphate and nitrate than you would think BTW. That being said, refugiums with chaeto do work to get your nutrients lower and make a great haven for pods to populate, no doubt about that.
The 'Flow and Export' video Josh produced was TOP NOTCH CONTENT! I want more fundamentals videos like that. And the vid about the lighting how to go full whites, then ramp down to blues as a 'break' for the coral on top of good feeding.
Thank you for following along with Josh, It is something we enjoy doing.
Guys! Great video! We need more of these asap! 😀😁😃
Stay tuned! 😁
I love this tank-side-chat format, and the interaction between Vic and Josh is very natural, relaxed and informative. I'd love to see more of these! The most important thing I've learned over 30 years in this hobby is to keep it simple and easy, as Josh stated in the video, because we are more likely to follow through with our "reef chores". And even though I don't try to keep up with all the latest gizmos and techniques, there is still a bit of drift, and I do find myself having to re-learn the basics from time to time to re-center. Subscribed!
Me too. More please. Kalkwasser discussion?
Kalk is the best for pH boost, we put in 100% of our top off with Kalkwasser, and supplement with Two Part... OG method is still the best
So how is the amount of kalk metered?
Cuz if it’s running off your top off then it’s just going in there as the water evaporates from your display, right??
Honest question.
We are 100% on board with that!
@@jonathancollins9831you don't actually have it on your auto top off, you just figure out about how much you evaporate every day set the kalk doser to dose just about that amount. For example if you evaporate two gallons a day set your pump to dose 1.9 gallons and let your ATO make up that last 0.1 and any small variations
My home evaporates my tank at a pretty consistent rate. You can dial in kalk in your ato to maintain consistency. I do BRS 2 part with Kalk in my ato and dialed them both in to keep DKH consistent week after week at 8.7 effortlessly.
100% agree. When it works fine for you don’t try to fix it.
Great conversation guys! You should continue with those talks, I feel like I am listening good old Reef Therapy again!
Well noted!!! We may just have to incorporate more videos like this 😁
I am brand new to reefing but learn so much listening to this! Thank you for sharing. The interaction between you and your differing viewpoints is actually helping to clarify my understanding of these processes!
Well Thank you for all the love and support! We are always here if you need anything.
I’ve been doing this for 35 years and am always on the hunt to learn something new. I love your simple approach and your candid stories of success and failure. Please keep up the great work and information sharing!!
Thank you for your comments!!! We all learn from our mistakes, that is part of the process of becoming a seasoned reefer. And we do love to keep it simple over here 😎
Just wanted to let you know that I love your videos and find them both entertaining and informative. Keep it up!
Thank you for your support and comments. We will keep pumping these videos out for you!!!! 🙏🏻
Love watching your videos very knowledgeable stuff for sure . So I just set up a Nano tank 8 weeks now we keep it running at
Nitrate 5.-10 ppm Phosphate’s 0.25 corals are thriving fish are doing great
A month ago I made my mum come to take pictures of the lagoon whilst she was on holiday. From England but LOVE these vids! You guys are some of the best in the world!
Thank you for having her stop by and for the feedback. We appreciate you!!!
This was a great discussion. I feel that there is way more to nitrates and phosphate than we currently know. There has to be some reason. My tank which has a phosphate level of 1.1 ppm and nitrates at 70 is growing acros. My colors are not the best but they are actually growing. Why rock the boat.
More please. I like the store/farm content with lecture/learning. I like it also when Victor and Josh are together, two perspectives that are similar but different. Very informative. Victor sort of helps Josh make his scientific stuff easier for us to understand lol.
33ppm nitrate and corals are in the best shape ive seen in my tank. It is madness.
I've seen plenty of beautiful reef tanks running 30-35ppm nitrates! Some corals love No3!!!
I also enjoy these videos because 8 years ago I started my salt water reef aquarium journey. I have made many mistake like others and also have continued to learn and develop my understanding for marine life and sustaining marine ecosystems. I am currently trying to breed a male snow storm clown fish with a female platinum. Both of them have very nice hues of blue around their black markings, that I would like to hone in on genetically. I also have a 3.5 Pico with my alveopora and other coral grow outs as well as a 7 gallon quarantine tank for new tank mates. My show piece in progress is my 60 gallon cube which is only a few months old and I am enjoying the process. It is hard to have just one saltwater tank as you end up wanting everything over time, and everything doesn't always do well together.
This Hobby we learn every day with, There is give and take on all of it.
Man I really appreciate your guys time and dedication to education in the reefing world. My reefing style is so similar to Josh’s that I really enjoy hearing his opinions!
You guys are working together but competing and still getting along and thriving because you are two good men 😊
Friendly competition is always fun!
Awesome office tank. That setup is sick. Best episode yet. Daves doing a superb job. Live watching these videos on my tv .
That facility is something else!!! Never seen anything so sleek🤩
"No question is to stupid." Challenge accepted 😂
Un tio grande victor estupendo video saludos desde España espero seguir aprendiendo con vosotros👏👏👏👏
🙏🏻Gracias!!!
Love the channel and content, please keep putting in the effort to make these as they're extremely helpful and informative!
Thank you so much for the love and support
Love the videos boys. Always a good reminder when tinkering to do it slow!
Thanks for watching!!!
It's refreshing that they said they have no problems using rocks from a tank that's fish only and has been medicated, and putting them in a reef. I've done that myself, and my reef today is thriving despite all the nay sayers that insist the copper would leach out of the rocks and nuke the reef. It's been three years, still hasn't happened.
No reef tank is the same. Every glass box is a completed different environment. I try to preach this myself. I do love kalkwasser. Slow and steady.
Yes! Everyone is different
Great video thanks guys. By the way your main camera is setup wrong or maybe in post it seems to be a different frame rate compared to the your second close up camera which looks so much better and doesn't stutter.
We will pass this along to the videographer!!! Thanks for watching!
Thank you for these videos, it presents me with ideas and how to approach my tank , your openness and approach is very refreshing . Please keep the info coming .
Thank you so much for the support!
This is a very important discussion & You both nailed it in regard to nitrates and phosphates. I have been dosing Brightwell’s Phosphate-e for some time now with very good results on my 600g tank and managing my levels hasn’t been too hard. Thanks guys
you are very welcome!
Great video! Always love seeing your content! I have a ques that I can’t seem to understand. I have a 25g lagoon. Long story short, tank survived a house fire. Ash, soon and debris went fully into the tank. I kid you not this triggered a huge uptake in alkalinity and nitrates… the following weeks after the fire the tank has nearly doubled its consumption .
Got me! I can't think of what would cause that 🧐
Thank you for this one! I've been struggling with high phosphates for a hot minute.
This truly is one of the most beautiful reef tanks I have ever seen. I can only hope my 300 gallon acro tank looks This good one day. ❤
I am sure that you will get there with some fine tuning and time my friend! Thanks for watching!
I'm really interested in the e FOWL to a reef tank that was treated with copper. This is what I'm currently trying to do. Love the videos! Thanks, guys.
We will be sure to keep everyone updated on the changes
I heard the part where you are turning the FOWLER to a Reef and have had meds in there. Any particular method or details you could share? I had velvet break out in my 310g mixed reef. Had to remove all coral to medicate 6 tangs and wrasses. 15 days left and I can start removing the Copper Power at 2.5ppm. kept my NSA aquascaped rocks and sand in
keep a eye out for the videos, we will be showing the journey and what approach we decide to go with.
How do i maintain a zero nutrient tank without diatoms? Also don’t the corals need nitrates in order to grow ? So how is it that josh is maintains zero nutrients and allowing corals to grow? Please help with this ?
Dose Nori put phosphates in the water? I feed two full sheets of Nori and two cubes of myiss two cubes of marine cuisine two cubes of angel fish formula and two cubes of brine shrimp once a day I have 8 tangs three angel fish two clowns a scooter blenny and a Diamond goby and 4 banggai Cardinals. I bought the tank used and I have had it set up 2 and a half years when I bought it the guy had it set up but not sure for how long. The tank is a 180 gal with a at least a 40 gal trigger sump my nitrates where running about 80 to 90 my phosphates are running some where around 3.0 so they are high. I can't keep any kind of stoney corals at all but I do have some leather corals mushrooms some zoas that's not really doing that good but my leathers, Toadstool and the rest of my leathers are growing. I can't do regular water changes because I have been having a lot of health problems and I'm not able to work and trying to get on disability if that happens I will be able to do more water changes and probably try and set up automatic water changes. So I guess what I'm trying to ask is am I feeding to much for the fish that I have? There is about 100 lbs of live rock in the tank any suggestions would be very much appreciated.
If it is just floating around and not being consumed yes that will increase Phosphate.
Love your videos! I have a 20G mixed reef that is testing 0 Nitrates and 0.1 phosphate. Don’t want to get Dino’s so I started to feed more and slowly bring up the nutrients.
Good job Men . Your methods of reducing nitrates & phosphates is very informative . The Dynamic Duel 😊
Thank you!
I think what you are saying is corals are really tolerant of conditions way outside of their natural environment if they conditions stay constant, and for many reefers it is easier to stay dirtier with less feeding and waste export overheads and time invested to mimic the actual conditions on the reef. This is also the reason why numbers do matter as they are the measure of stability, and is also the reason why some reefs can't grow certain corals in their tanks well.
I like your statement about keeping Nitrate/Phosphate low but you feed heavy and filter heavy. A steady intput/output balance (i.e. stability) seems more important than just keeping nitrates and phosphates at one specific number
Agreed 👍
Great video guys, very informative! I’m always battling high nutrients, I’m a heavy feeder - I like my fish fat & healthy! That lagoon tank is phenomenal, but my OCD can’t help but notice that mangrove that’s leaning a little to the left, I would have to center it😂. It’s looking super healthy!
LOL, it's perfect in our eyes 🤩
It’s leaning but the bush part is centered. I’m a Virgo and want things even and it looks fine to me. Sorry if it’s bothersome to you…
Love the video keep them coming 😁👍
We sure will!!!
This was awesome. Had a few great nuggets to take away. Thanks guys!!
Glad to see that you got some useful information. Thanks for watching!
My old tank had high po4 and no3 and i used the honey vinegar method to reduce them
That's a form of carbon dosing. It drops levels pretty fast!
I Build the dosing up slowley. And it worked well for me without negative outcomes.
@@DennisvanOs-l6l Thats good, Doing large changes to fast can have an opposite effect.
Great video... REALLY helpful ..
Thank you so much for watching! We will keep the vids coming!
Awesome video per usual! Any suggestions dealing with Dino in an established tank with .08 phos and 20 nitrates. Dealing with Large cell/prorocentrum dinos. Looking to see what the best approach is. Thanks and happy reefing.
Is it a bad idea to get a new T5 fixture right now? I’m worried they might discontinue the bulbs.
I'd advise against it. The will probably go the way of the halides.
Thanks for the folding the algae tip
He has us all doing it now lol
You guys are a class act. 👍👍👍
Thank you so much.
I love these 'chats by the lagoon'.
We really like it as well
If i didnt miss it you did not discuss refugium, macro algea or other plants for nutrient export. Why? I think those giant mangroves in the back of that tank helps alot with the nutrients.
Keep an eye out on future videos! we break things up and talk about different topics
I'm not sure if this will get anywhere but I'm running a 14 month old mixed reef on a fluval fx6 canister
filter in Arizona. I have a 65 gallon rimless made by Current. I have scolys, acans, favias, wilsoni, blasto, torches, chalice, acros and a few others corals, quite heavly stocked with corals. I have been decently successful despite what many people think of canister filters, though, I am very involved with my tank. I'd love to pick Josh's brain for a few mins. There is NO information on running this kind of a reef tank with a canister filter. I'm not sure how to get in touch but if you guys are interested l, I would like to talk to Josh. Thanks, keep up the great work
Sure send us a email to contact@worldwidecorals.com
@@WorldWideCorals Awesome, will do. I appreciate the response!
Honesty in reefing moment - phosphate of 2.2 ppm here. Fun talk. Keep up the good work and keep the passion alive.
Wow that is a super high level!!! If the coral are happy, best to leave it alone.
Learned in my AIO I have to dose phosphates since corals eat it up and if I need to bring nitrates down I can do water change or dose live phyto. Haven't done a water change in a while and my tank is only 50 gallons AIO.
Sounds like you got it down to a science! If everything is happy, that is all that matters.
Love your chats . So so so helpful . Thanks thanks thanks
Thank you for watching!!!
Autofeeder got stuck today and dumped 3 weeks worth of food so I’ll be fighting the nitrate battle for the next few months now. Do I buy the foxface now or wait is the only question. 😂
Phosphates will be your main issue in this case. Buy some rowaphos and get ready to use it 😮
Going to be a wild ride, that’s for sure!
Have trouble with phosphates we have tank water so has lots of leaves on roof and birds so even though Rodi with two resin chambers water that goes in is .06 and the tank is 1 .
On saying that tank is doing well no hair algae (mixed tank 280 litres no filters) only 5 fish.
What kind of cleaning are you doing?
@@WorldWideCorals I lean the tank once a week 240 litres and do 40 litre water change clean pumps every 6 weeks and every 3rd week try and clean sand one side at a time . Only 5 fish one shrimp coral banded and one hermit crab.
Currently cycling about 18 days in, when would you add reef spec carbon?
Another Great Episode 😎
Thank you!
Great video thanks!
How do u guys like to plumb your uv sterilizers?
reach out to contact@worldwidecorals.com
Amazing video ! Thanks for sharing
Much appreciated. Thanks for watching!!!
Great video guys!
Thank you!
I definitely know the smell you speak of. I've run a 3 gallon reef only tank for about 9 months now, learned a lot.
It only has a simple foam filter that also feeds the water flow to the top of the tank (all inside the tank).
I do regular water changes, don't have that much phosphates. Nitrates have gotten high but only because I've had snails that cause it to go higher. Recently I've not had anything but corals and the nirates have been lower. I keeps soft corals only, and zoas are one of them. I hear they like a little bit of nitratres, and the tank usually gets to about 5 nitrates after a water change. I've tried stoney corals but didn't work out and I've heard that's due to the size of the tank being too small.
I haven't really done much dosing, maybe some carbonate to raise KH sometimes. I use Instant Ocean Reef Crystals for my water mix. pH stays around 8.3 - 8.6 throughout the day.
Do you use Phyto? How would that contribute to N03 and P04?
i think the 50 nitrates ok - what you dont see is the death rate of the corals initially and what survived the journey to the 50ppm nitrate. Personally I'd prefer to keep them less than 10ppm and phosphates less than 0.10ppm
@Worldwidecorals it’s not the API aqua spin.
The one I’m using that he said in this video is the Lamotte spintouch FF.
Very accurate and been spot on with check against Hanna checkers
Great video, thanks for the info!
And thanks for watching!!!!
I have a 2 year old Fluval Evo 13.5 Nano tank and I've almost never had detectable Nitrates and very rarely detectable Phosphates. Things are doing pretty well but I always wonder if bringing them up will make things happier. Just no more room to add bioload
Hello!
What do you say about people not doing anything if they read 0. Not to chase a number. I’ve listened and let me tell you… as soon as it stayed at 0 for 3 weeks I started getting all kinds of algae and took me 3 months to bring it back.
Nutrients in, nutrients out is the key. If you are not feeding your tank much and your phosphates and nitrates rest at 0, you will have a dino outbreak. What Josh is doing to his tank is feeding heavy, keeping the microfauna and bacteria well fed, but doing water changes to get excess nutrients out. Dino grows when there is nothing there thriving, to compete with it. In most cases, it is best not to keep levels at 0. Preferably, nitrates should be 10-15ppm and po4 between 0.03 and 0.1ppm.
What’s the best way to raise phosphate when it constantly bottoms out!
What is the Nitrate reading at?
Love this format good stuff I would love to work with you guys keep it up
Thank you for the support!
Is there some natural way like bacterial or sand bad to reduse phosphate?
Josh super cool guy .. any questions he is helping me all the time.. i haven’t had the opportunity to ask victor or chat with him ( he is a little serious) but im pretty sure he is cool too
Josh is a wealth of knowledge and he loves passing that knowledge on!
My son is ready for you this year vic, the high five championship is coming home with us this year he said he's tired of you winning LMFAO see you at palooza New York in June
He said the belt is coming home with him again.
@@WorldWideCorals wait till I tell him what you said lol
What would yall do about a 125 gallon tank with a center brace? I have 3 ai prime 16s. Would you put the center one off set or buy another one? Also what do you need to test for regularly and what would you test like once a month?
Is it affecting the growth right now?
@@WorldWideCorals I haven’t put the tank up yet but have everything to do it. Just wondering what I should do. This is my first saltwater tank and definitely want corals
@@WorldWideCorals I haven’t started the tank yet. I was just wondering what would be the best thing to do about it when I do get it set up.
Thank y’all for the help by the way
1 question: would you rather get higher par with the whites turned down and the blues turned up or get higher par with the whites turned up?
All depends on the coral you have in the system and what everything is looking like.
@@WorldWideCorals They never look good enough :P It's about Acropora.
Can't wait to see you guys this weekend at RAP!
Same here, we'll see you there!
I’ve noticed with two clowns and a neon goby my nitrates are consistently at 4 or 5 in a 10g tank. I bought corals from wwc acans and some zoas, ricodias and was told to have my nitrates between 10 to 15. Been tough to get it up there with out having high phosphate.
Corals seem pretty happy they puff up and contract early evening hours. I follow Vic’s möbius schedule for my single grow blade. Flow is at 856g pulse from a AI nero. Acans are in the middle to bottom of the tank not directly in the flow.
Knowing from this video not every tank is the same. Should I not worry about my acans and softies and just believe they acclimated to 5 nitrate. Been banging my head on my desk trying to get to 10 to 15 nitrate.
Yea if everything is looking good and healthy keep it my friend.
@@WorldWideCoralsgood deal I will keep it going with how it’s going.
If you guys are going to change the FOWLR into a reef then I want to buy Chiquita!!!! 😂😂😂 Love that fish ❤❤❤
She is staying with us lol
@@WorldWideCorals Lol, understood!
I have a 130 gallon Waterbox tank that’s been running for over 3 years now. I only have about 12-15 corals or so in the tank, I plan on adding more but I’m a bit tight with money. I notice my po4 rises quickly in a week, normally getting to .1 or a little higher if I don’t add rowa. Do you think the lack of corals in my tank is causing phosphate instability? My nitrates are 9.5-10ppm so they seem to be at a good number but my po4 can never stay stable for long. I’m also facing a minor green hair algae outbreak in the tank that I’m doing my best to resolve. A large cleanup crew should help right that right? I assume the hair algae is from elevated po4 levels. Any tips would be great and thanks!
The elevated phosphates are due to something being added to the tank. Are you using reef roids or any type of dry coral food?
@@WorldWideCorals I haven’t for a while now, I feed TDO pellets, Nutramar pellets as well as Rod’s food fish blend. Should I try reef nutritions liquid foods?
@@reefingislife Yes, reef nutrition are great, and are not loaded with tons of phosphates. Rod's food does have a good amount of phosphate as well. Try using foods like mysis, roe, and brine for a while and see if the phosphates stop going up.
@@WorldWideCorals Ugh! I’m throwing Rods food away right now 😂Thanks so much for the info I’ll try reef nutrition. Can I still feed those pellets I mentioned or slow down on those?
Having phosphates of 3 and nitrate aeound 30-40. Corals started to thrive and grow like crazy the moment i stopped lowering my nutrients
Each tank is different, It is awesome to know the coral and tank is doing fantastic
What is your thoughts on Carbon Dosing to control Nitrates and Phosphates?
You for sure can do that, Just be careful doing that!
Great content!
Thank you so much!
Im not saying your wrong about leeching nutrients, let me start there, but let me also tell you about my experience the last 2 years. I setup a 225 and used 200lbs of rocks I got from another reefer. His tank was COVERED in GHA. He removed the rocks, did not clean them, and left them outside on his porch. I get them a year later, run them through a muriatic acid bath, sparkly clean rocks right? I thought so. Put them in the tank, start a fishless cycle with Dr. Tims AC and MB7.
About the 6 month mark phosphate, nitrite, and nitrate went up drastically to off charts levels, the tests were daaaaark and beyond the range of the card. 50% water change wouldn't touch it. I did everything I knew how to do to bring it down with no success. This went on for about 10 months, of course cyano and GHA showed up enmasse. Then overnight one night everything dropped to flat zero, phos,nites,nates all 0 and they have stayed at 0 since then, about 8 months. Cyano and GHA went away, and the tank looks great except for being in an ULN state. Every day Im afraid of Dinos popping up.
Im not saying it was dead organics leeching out of the rocks, but I did nothing to the tank to make the levels explode and stay that way for months and months. Nothing I do would affect it either. Im very inclined to believe thats what happend, but have no way to test or prove it. Im also going to start ammonia dosing the tank to try and correct the unwanted ULN state of affairs. lol
Just wanted to share that with you. Wondered what your thoughts were on it if you have time. Thanks!
I'd advise against putting ammonia in a tank with livestock. Instead, add Brightwell's neophos and neonitro!
@@WorldWideCorals I completely understand why you would say that. However I am not new to reef keeping, The dose I would be using is very very very small, and not in any way a danger to the livestock. Its so small in fact that it won't even register on most test kits. It is absolutely an experiment and I am not recommending that anyone else do it.
You ought to have explained what happens if nitrates and phosphates are too high for the viewers at home.
I think it was mentioned a couple of times really quickly in the video. Excessively high nitrates and phosphates will kill corals. Thanks for watching!!!
The twins are filled yessss
Thx Guys
Started with all dry rock (some large) and a bit of seed crushed coral from a well established tank.
I built in a large trickle filter, 2 years later I have 0 nitrate but still battling brown algae.... (very little green algae)
Is the not fully mature dry rock still leeching and feeding the algae...?
Pink coral line on my snails is doing great, but not much at all anywhere else, little spots pop up but don't flourish
(I do have a fair amount of grey/green coral line)
RODI water 0 TDS, Very light load and feeding, 15% water change a week.
You could have dinos. Dinos in general can become a problem when nitrate/phosphate bottom out. Some dinos don’t look very stringy/snotty and look more like diatoms. You should get a microscope or find someone with one and ID the algae. Amphidinium is a kind of dino that is not very snotty or stringy
@@ShadowTheNinjaKitty Thanks for the reply, I believe you're right it's like a light dusting of brown that will seem to blow off with a turkey baster, but leaves a thin fluffy "structure" behind, and it seems to scrub off with a firm shortened bristled toothbrush but it's not really gone... LOL
Things are getting somewhat "better" coralline is coming on and normal green algae.
I think it's maturing really slow because of ALL dry rock and limited bio diversity from just a gravel seeding, Copepods mostly, I haven't seen any sponges or squirts or anything, I really like all that stuff...!
I did this as a pest "prevention" measure so I'm reluctant to put a piece nice live rock in there to seed that type of life....
I wish I knew someone with a CLEAN tank I could get a piece from.
We only have 1 good saltwater fish store, and they're not selling rock out of their display tank.... lol
Phosphates are .03, nitrates are 10.1 and now I'm fighting dynos. This is the 1st time ever dealing with this.
Did you bottom out at all?
If your gonna talk about No3 and Po4 i think you should also talk about algae, dinos, cyano, etc.
We are always making more vids! Keep an eye out
That's a reason why I don't want low nutrients. I would rather have algae than Dino.
@@borinvlogs ya but you see people running clean tanks with 0 nitrates 0 phosphates
Couldn't agree more! You can't talk about Nitrates and Phospates without talking about algae, dinos and cyano! I have been doing freshwater for many years and switched to saltwater 6 months ago. In freshwater, you want NO Nitrates or Phosphates (unless you have plants) and the cleanest you can keep your tank the better. But I have quickly learned that you need some level of nitrates and phosphates in your tank. I have all the gadgets on my 80G saltwater tank and turns out the water was too clean. I first thought it was diatoms but it was a dino outbreak. The reason is because my nitrates and phosphates were both at zero. Now I am treating it. I cut back my skimmer, halted water changes, only run blue lights and increased water flow. I also added Money Cowrie snails (known to eat dinos), Phytoplankton, and Tisbee Pods (also known to eat dinos). I also purchased a 5 micron filter sock and am siphoning out the dinos daily through the sock and then putting the water back into the tank. In just 2 days I am already seeing less dinos return when the lights come on.
Hi Guys, what is the best to move from a 65 gallon reef tank to 75 gallon reef tank. I have about 10 fish and some coral.
email us over at contact@worldwidecorals.com
Can you do a Coral only aquarium setup segment?
Great idea!!! I will pass this along, if we can find one of our tanks that is fishless 👍
I ruined my glass over doing it with seaclear. It's like a foggy haze on your glass you can't get rid of. Would never do it in the display again. Maybe in the sump or skimmer. Maybe
What is that pink and green goni colony at 0:29?
My phosphates bottom out like a bouncing basketball...lol Nitrates...20 no matter what!
What bulbs would you recommend for a 4 lamp t5 fixture
send an email over to contact@worldwidecorals.com
3 Blue Plus and one aqua blue special
i preach kalkwasser!! thank you victor!
Happy to spread the word brother ✊
Hey WWC, I have a problem. I have rising nitrates and dropping phos to the point I need to dose or the coral lose color and half way open. I have a refugium I just plumbed in over a month ago and it works well, my nitrates are now readable but they rise really fast. I feed frozen 3 times a week, very little for a cardinal and a clown. I just got a gravel vac and vaccumed the fuge and the display and there was so much waste. I think that may have been the issue, would you agree that it would be the issue for nitrates going to 20 to 26 in a day? They genrally stay between 30 and 50 weekly. Honestly going crazy.
Hi Mark! Your nitrates are surely on the high side. There is something more to this story. What are you using to test your nitrates? BTW, Brightwell does make NO3 removing bricks that you can put in your sump. They work great!
I use the hanna test kit and if I need another option, I use salifert. I'll have to check those out but it's really irritating cause I'm trying to grow my zoas.
@@markgarcia2028 If you have a local store that you trust, I'd suggest having a service technician stop by to check things out. Something is not right there.
Also carbon dosing is great for reducing nitrates if you're worrying about it.
If done carefully, it works great and quickly!
I've looked all over and can't find what may be going on that my nitrates are zero and phosphates are .90. This has been the case for four months. I run a skimmer (for this size tank), algea scrubber, and filter socks, as well as live rock and live sand. The tank was started with dry rock and sand in October 2023. I feed half a cube of frozen brine shrimp and a pinch of saki marine herbivore pellet food daily.
Higher light ppfd higher nitrates
damm victor I thought you always wanted a predator tank
We can keep trying with him lol
How did you guys do an episode on nitrates and phosphates and not talk about refugiums? There's literally a mangrove growing in the background! Macroalgae has to be the simplest and easiest form of nutrient export
We do not use refugiums at all. We don't really preach something we do not practice. There are some youtube videos out there that we have done with BRS where we talk about why we feel that they are not a necessity. The mangrove is not there for nutrient export, it is there as the focus of the lagoon mangrove tank for the visuals. Mangroves remove a lot less phosphate and nitrate than you would think BTW. That being said, refugiums with chaeto do work to get your nutrients lower and make a great haven for pods to populate, no doubt about that.